I'll use this blog entry to give the overall picture of the trek, and then fill in some interesting daily details in entries to follow.

Katy and I started out carrying packs weighing about 40 lbs each. We didn't have an opportunity to leave any gear behind because we ended the two-week hike in a different location than we started. So, we carried everything we had packed for the entire trip. Feeling young, fit, and invincible, we declined many offers for hiring a guide or porter (sherpa), determined to be "independent" trekkers. By day two, Katy was dealing with leg pain that was cause for concern. It was at this point that I realized she was carrying about one third of her body weight, so I took on an additional 10 pounds or so. On day three, we decided to really charge it and marched 14 miles, over 9 hours, and 2,500 feet of elevation gain. My calf muscles have been sore ever since, and that was 14 days ago.

In short, the Annapurna Circuit is certainly one of the most gorgeous, rewarding, culturally-diverse, and fun hiking experiences on the planet. We walked a total of 15 days, covering more than 130 miles. The highest point of the trek was over Thorung La pass, which is 17,768 feet high. We slept the night before at 14,500 feet, which is higher than any peak in Colorado.

We met many wonderful people on the trail, and made some new friends along the way. In addition to the peaceful and hospitable local Nepali people who fed us great meals and provided a bed to lay our heads at the end of the day, the Circuit is populated with a fascinating blend of international trekkers. We met people from over 20 different countries, so we were learning about many world cultures in addition to the varied sort dwelling high in the Himalayas.

If you're looking to heighten your world view, your physical fitness, and your relationship with nature, go trekking in Nepal.

written by  Katy and Mark Lewis on April 26, 2009 from Muktinath, Nepal
from the travel blog: India and Nepal
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Most of the time on the trail it feels like you could be hiking in any beautiful mountain setting. Then, you'll turn a corner and find yourself suddenly struck by the Vista of 26,000 + ft. Himalayan peak towering above you. To give a feel for the scale, if you're in Keystone, CO looking at Grey's and Torrey's (two very fine fourteeners), you are experiencing about a 5,000 foot elevation differential. In roughly the same horizontal distance, we're experiencing the view of about four times that. These are big mountains, making the Rockies look a bit like hills.

All of the children living in the small villages that we pass along the trail are very keen on saying, "namaste" many times upon sighting a foreigner. If you respond in kind, the kids proceed to uncannily request, in order, a pen, sweets, then rupees. The elder Nepali people use the same "namaste" greeting, but their body language suggests they intend the full and true meaning of the expression. Roughly translated to English, it means: "I bow to the divine spirit within you". What a beautiful expression of brotherly love and righteous expectation of one another.

written by  Katy and Mark Lewis on April 26, 2009 from Muktinath, Nepal
from the travel blog: India and Nepal
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It is challenging for the Western mind to reconcile how the people of Varanasi can treat the Ganges as their public bath, toilet, and sacrosanct spiritual water source, all in one. I suppose one way of viewing this is to realize that for these people, there simply is no separation of daily life and spiritual life. Mundane tasks such as brushing your teeth need not seem strangely juxtaposed to the most sacred and revered act of worship. Many faith traditions preach continuity of ordinary life and religious life, but this is the practice in action as no other.

Varanasi is dirty, really dirty. After walking the streets for an hour or two, your nose begins to run and you find yourself coughing from the inhilation of dirt, pollution, smoke, and animal (including human) debris everywhere. This is the condition of much of urban India, but it's particularly alarming in this place.

We also made a day trip from here to Sarnath, the location of the Buddha's first lecture after attaining enlightenment under the Bodhi tree. Despite this being the birthplace of Buddhism, only a couple percent of all Indians claim this spiritual tradition. If you've read the book, Siddhartha, by Hermann Hesse, this is the "Deer Park", and looks just like what I pictured from his description in the novel. It was very cool to imagine monks and Hindu holy men gathered around, listening to this new philosophical breakthrough from a recently enlightened being. It is said that the message was so potent, several in the crowd realized nirvana upon the conclusion of his remarks hitting their ears. In other words, he described reality with such lucidity that it just plain made sense to his intimate audience of yogic practitioners.

written by  Katy and Mark Lewis on April 25, 2009 from Varanasi, India
from the travel blog: India and Nepal
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The 30 minute ride from the airport seemed to be one long construction zone. Apparently there is a new underground metro that will be servicing the airport in the near future, bringing welcome relief to the highway traffic. After realizing this was our first visit to his country, the proud Indian driver insisted this particular night carried a strange "fog". Katy and I agreed this "fog" certainly contained potent elements of dirt and pollution. Arriving at our bungalow hotel slightly disoriented, we decided, rather effortlessly, to go to bed. By 4:30am, we were both wide awake, wondering when the sun was going to greet our day.

Overall, the city of New Delhi is surprisingly clean, with more beautiful shady trees than most urban areas. The people are generally quiet, kind, and peaceful. This seems to be not only a reflection of their collective heightened spiritual state, but also a direct result of their densely crowded condition.

The TV and newspaper coverage has been dominated by the G20 Summit and pictures of India's PM with President Obama. One gets a strong sense that India has turned a corner and no longer considers itself a "developing country", but rather a "rising world power". Indeed, India's economy is expected to be one of the few (if not only) economies that is expected to grow (not contract) in 2009. There is a feeling of pride that India might not need to be included in receiving international aid during this global economic downturn.

During today's tour, we took in the beautiful Lodhi Gardens, practically useful Khan Market, emotionally touching Indira Ghandi memorial, educational and inspiring Nehru museum, relentless Kashmir rug sales pitch, and our first local meal without contracting the infamous "Delhi belly"! We struck out on foot, but quickly hailed a rikshaw to cover more ground and get cover from the heat.

We've just met up with our friend, Courtney, who has been living here for several months. She's going to show us the local scene tonight, and then we'll depart tomorrow for somewhere else. We thought we were going to Kathmandu, Nepal tomorrow, but India's grip has proven to be too strong, so we'll remain here for a bit longer. We hope to visit Old Delhi tomorrow, which is apparently much more of an adventure.

Katy has just awoken from a nap to provide some stunning shots of our first day...

written by  Katy and Mark Lewis on April 3, 2009 from Delhi, India
from the travel blog: India and Nepal
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