The road network throughout the island of Negros is pretty extensive and well maintained except probably in the hinterlands and 25 kilometer stretch in the Oriental-Occidental border that we were about to traverse. This last of the last frontiers took one hour to negotiate alone. The good news was that they were starting on it already and in good time. The bad news was that all the trucks and construction equipment were making it worse in some places and they tarried making any more repairs since they were going to get to it soon but not soon enough for those who traveled the road frequently and the poor sap who did it once and would swear never to pass there ever again. With such detestably and horridly bad roads, Ceres fielded only their oldest and worst rickety units on this route and for good reason. It would have been more comfortable to walk barefoot!

Before all this moaning and groaning started, we were oblivious of our fate and still excited about the ride ahead. It started pleasantly enough as the countryside in this neck of the woods still very rural and still unmarred by developments. Inescapably, new houses and some mansion-like structures of the nouveau middle class and elite dot the roadside as they do in the rest of the country. Past Bacong, the first town after Dumaguete, there is Dauin, site to numerous dive resorts and jump off point to Apo Island. Further are Zamboanguita and Siaton, the southern most tip of the province of Oriental and of the entire island of Negros. From here the countryside starts to get wilder with Bayawan as the last outpost. Basay is the next and last town of Negros Oriental and here starts the agony until the town proper of Hinoba-an on the Occidental side.

By the way, I have heard some locals and in particular some acquaintances from Bais refer to Dumaguete as Doomsville. I can't recall the reason for this but the name stuck. I really do not know the place that well to make a judgement but the people I have met from there I have liked including an old buddy Marichelle Teves-Magalona who is based there. I hope to get a chance to know the place better some day.

On the ferry to Dumaguete

Stopover in Tagbilaran

Port of Dumaguete

Oriental countryside

Hidden valley

Mountain roads

We did not get a chance to move around too much as I had to get to as many meetings that were set up for me in the short time the we were there. I have been to Cebu a few times in the past but all those trips were likewise for business. We really have to go back to spend some time exploring the place. In any case, you can see why the Cebuanos are very proud of their little island even in a short visit. For starters, there is much history. Also, it has the right mix of province and city life. And finally, it is so centrally located that you can take a boatride to just about anywhere else in the Visayas and Mindanao including our ultimate destination, the island of Negros.

There are several ways to get to Bacolod from Cebu and the most civilized manner is to fly. But civilized we always ain’t. Itching for a bit of adventure, we opted to take the ferry to Dumaguete. There are two ferries leaving daily from Cebu to Dumaguete and both leave between 6 and 7 AM. The ride was smooth as the seas were calm. Including a stopover at Tagbilaran, Bohol, the boat ride took under 5 hours. From Dumaguete, there are buses that go to Bacolod over the mountains via Mabinay in Kabankalan. This cuts across the island of Negros heading first north on the eastern side of Oriental to Bais. The trip to Kabankalan from Dumaguete via Mabinay would take about 3 hours. Since our first stop was Hinoba-an, we would have to take another 3 hour bus ride south from Kabankalan for a total of 6 hours. There are also buses going the western route crossing over from Oriental at Bayawan directly into Hinoba-an in the Occidental side taking only 5 hours. The latter seemed like the best way to go and go we did for the ride of our life.

Miren in Arano's

Angel Ibarlucea (aka Arano)

Water Mirage

Touted to be world-class, the SCTEx is currently 93.77 kilometers long stretching from Mabalacat, Tarlac to just before the Tipo gate of the Subic Bay complex. There is an access ramp giving motorists the option to exit onto the National Road leading to Olongapo. Apparently, plans are already afoot to extend this north from Tarlac all the way to Rosario, La Union where the fork to Baguio and Ilocos is. I have also heard that the road will also extend east to Dingalan, Quezon which will be very welcomed as it will open up the northern Quezon and the Cagayan Valley area.

Awesome Countryside

The old route to Subic from the NLEX would take you through San Fernando, Bacolor, Guagua, Sta. Rita, Sasmoan and Lubao in Pampanga and Dinalupihan in Bataan. Travel time on this stretch would take up to 2 hours mostly dependent on traffic in Lubao. We made it in under an hour on the SCTEx running at the maximum prescribed 100 KPH speed limit. We could have made it much quicker if not for the ever present patrol cars on the road.

Carved Mountain

Getting on the SCTEx from the NLEX was simpler than the instructions we got from a newspaper clipping from the day before. This caused a bit of confusion with so many options coming from or going to Clark or Tarlac and involving the use of the National Highway. We drove down to the last main exit gate which is in Dau. We only started seeing signs to SCTEx at this point. After about a kilometer or so there was a sign to exit to apparently what is the Clark Logistics Gate. This will take you over the NLEX and over the National Highway and onto the interchange getting onto the SCTEx. In case you get disoriented specially for first-timers, watch out for the directional signs. If I am not mistaken this is the only time you actually see a sign directing you to Subic. Make a mistake and you end up heading for Tarlac City.

Green Fields

There was one word that came to mind when first driving the SCTEx and this was AWESOME! The road is magnificent and the countryside (still) pristine. It is amazing how the road cuts through some hills to keep it as level as possible. On some stretches you see it go on and on in a straight line as far as the eye can see. In the midday heat on the way back, the road in the distance shimmered like there was water on it. The pictures we took will not come near doing it justice.

Head For The Hills

For now it is a long and lonely stretch without any services areas nor the gas stations and commercial complexes that will surely sprout soon enough. There will be 4 interchanges between the Clark Logistics and Tipo Gates but you are committed either way until these are built. Toll for this span is P112 then there is the P19 on the Tipo gate if immediately entering Subic.

Lahar River

We headed for Angeles City before heading home the following day. On the way back you practically find yourself inside Clark but there is still no interchange to exit from the SCTEx. Frustratingly, you will need to exit again at the Clark Logistics Interchange and get off onto the National Highway. Again, should you get disoriented, watch out for the sign that will direct you to Angeles City and not Tarlac City. You are now on the National Highway and traffic will be heavier. It is not a long drive to the Clark gate and you will soon be crossing the Mabalacat – Angeles border. If you are in need for a meal or a snack, keep an eye out for A La Crème which will be on your right shortly after crossing the border and right before the Clark gate. The steaks and pastas are good and the cakes and pastries divine.

Misty Mountains

While we are on the topic of food, you might as well know that my passion for driving around is only second to food and to eating. In Subic, there are a growing number of food outlets including some Manila brands but 3 establishments standout. First there is the the MeatPlus Cafe where you get (what else but) good steaks and pure beef burgers. Located on Sampson Road, Meatplus is something of landmark being centrally located and surrounded by a number of duty free shops. Second is Seafood by the Sea which obviously specializes in seafood. Located along Waterfront Drive, you can opt to dine outdoors by the beach. It has a rather unique menu, one portion enumerating the different seafood they serve and the lower part the different ways they can be cooked. A bit pricey but kudos to the cooks. Finally there is the merienda of the of the Subic International Hotel - Delta. For P99 you get to eat all you can. I think the place is called the Terrace Cafe and is located along either Sta. Rita St. or Canal Road. I was assured that breakfast, lunch and dinner are just as good and equally fairly priced. The place is cool and cozy. Coffee is also good and served in full-sized mugs. Not a place for finicky non-smokers though but I smoke so what the heck.

Long Long Road

We traveled on a weekday so there weren’t too many cars on the road although there were more people than usual in Subic but this could be attributed to the Labor Day holiday. In any case, there is more development in Subic and the general feeling and mood is optimistic and upbeat. Thankfully this project has not been touched by controversy as most other projects in the country have but as in any new project there is contention and the farmers are moaning about being displaced from their plots and the businessmen complaining about livestock on the road. Well, if our problems could only be that simple.

Out For A Drive

Happy trails!

written by  Joey Carlotta on April 29, 2008 from Subic, Philippines
from the travel blog: Subic–Clark–Tarlac Expressway (SCTEx)
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Ready To Roll

Home

Sucat Road

EDSA

The first town out of the NLEX Sta. Rita exit is Plaridel in the province of Bulacan and immediately we were met by slow moving traffic on a single lane road. And to think that this is the gateway to the Cagayan Valley! The area is densely populated and very commercial. A number of provincial buses stopping along the way to pick up passengers did not help. After Plaridel, you will go through the towns of Baliuag, San Ildefonso and San Miguel before entering the province of Nueva Ecija. The traffic gets progressively lighter and the countryside opens up more and more as to you travel further away from Plaridel.

SLEX

NLEX

NLEX

Pampanga

Bulacan

Bulacan

While there is one notable major road, the route is poorly posted. We came across some forks and there were no signs indicating which led where. On the other hand, I made my first discovery in Gapan where I spied a sign with a left arrow indicating 45 kilometers to San Fernando, Pampanga. Referring to my map, I saw that we could have exited NLEX at San Fernando and gotten to Gapan through the towns of Mexico, Sta. Ana and Arayat in Pampanga and Cabiao and San Isidro in Nueva Ecija bypassing Plaridel, Baliuag, San Ildefonso and San Miguel in Bulacan. In fact you can even skip Mexico, Pamganga by exiting before San Fernando at San Simon.

written by  Joey Carlotta on March 6, 2008 from Gapan, Philippines
from the travel blog: Baguio Via Cabanatuan & Alternatives
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Nueva Ecija

There are quite a number of roads between Cabanatuan and Tarlac to its west. Without backtracking to Gapan, you can end up in any major town in Tarlac and Northern Pampanga. The roads are all well paved and the views very scenic. Unfortunately, road signs are very poor to almost nonexistent.

written by  Joey Carlotta on March 6, 2008 from Cabanatuan, Philippines
from the travel blog: Baguio Via Cabanatuan & Alternatives
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Nueva Ecija

After Carmen you just have Urdanta to contend with and then you are home free. There is an alternate route from Villasis that ends up as far as Pozorrubio but we did not want to get caught in unfamiliar roads in the dark. We stopped in Sison at around 5:30 PM for a leg-stretch and arrived in Baguio at 7 PM.

written by  Joey Carlotta on March 6, 2008 from Guimba, Philippines
from the travel blog: Baguio Via Cabanatuan & Alternatives
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At the end of NLEX turn right (not left going to Dau) going to Concepcion. This is a well posted alternate route going through La Paz and Victoria. After Victoria is Pura where you have a choice to turn left ending up in Panigui or right going towards Guimba. Shortly before Guimba you turn left towards Cuyapo and Rosales. At this point you have bypassed the roads of Tarlac. In Rosales you can turn left to Carmen or right through Sta. Maria, Asingan and San Manuel to bypass Urdaneta. In San Manuel, you turn left going to Binalonan. There is another turn that takes you all the way to Pozzorubio but my map does not show details of that area.

Rodel Andaya, Liezel Javellana & Kathy Sulit

Hotel in Baguio

After taking care of business in Baguio, we left the following day for Manila departing shortly before 10 AM. We drove straight through to Tarlac and arrived in Luisita at 12:30 PM without taking any detours as the traffic was light. We left Tarlac at about 2:00 PM and had lunch in a stop along the NLEX. I was home by about 5:30 PM grateful for missing the traffic on EDSA.

It's funny how everything seem to get smaller as you get older and (hopefully) wiser. You wonder how your family fit in a small house that seemed so large when you lived in it as a child. Or a recollection of your grandfather as a tall and imposing figure when your mother tells you he was barely over five and a half feet in height. As a young boy traveling north, I used to get the impression that the plains of Central Luzon went on forever to the distant mountains far away in the horizon. This last trip has made me realize that the Philippines is not very big at all. More importantly, it has brought home the point that we must take care and make proper use of the land because there isn't too much of it. I wonder what my grandchildren will see of this land when their time comes to visit it.

Happy Trails!

written by  Joey Carlotta on March 6, 2008 from Baguio, Philippines
from the travel blog: Baguio Via Cabanatuan & Alternatives
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Star Toll Turnoff

Star Toll Entry

The first exit on the Star Toll is the Sambat Exit that takes you to the lakeside town of Talisay where there is a turnoff that leads to Tagaytay up a well paved but steep and curvy road. This is a good alternative when traffic is extra heavy on the traditional routes. After the climb you will find yourself close to the Tagaytay Picnic Grove. Talisay, by the way, is where you can hire boats to go to the Taal Volcano island. There are several resorts along the lakeside road including the Taal Yatch Club. You will emerge in Lemery if you follow this road to the end. I make reference to this route later approaching from the opposite end of the road.

Sambat Exit

Star Toll Road

The star toll is a pleasure to drive. It is well paved and traffic is always light. The road climbs and dips making driving interesting. The countryside also opens up in all its green glory. There are a number of exits to places unknown that are so tempting to explore but keep an eye out for the exit before the end of the toll way. You will want to take the Batangas exit and not the Lipa exit which will bring you to Lipa proper with its city-style traffic. There is a break in the road where you will have to make a short U-turn crossing the opposite lane onto the exit toll plaza bringing you back to the national highway on which you turn right going towards Batangas City.

Star Toll Exit

Lipa Road