Groovespook

And so I left Krache for Cambodia's capital, Phnom Penh. Surprisingly, the bus arrived ON TIME. Crazy. Cambodia has such a different personality to laid-back Laos. You can see it just in the driving. Instead of mainly motorbikes and tuk-tuks, Cambodia's streets are occupied with SUVs (Lexus and Toyotas are quite popular) that scream down the streets packed with people. The roads are pretty much all paved so there is no game of miss-the-pothole. But the two countries do share similarities. They are full of such kind, helpful people. Always with a smile.

I arrived in Phnom Penh not sure what to expect. Quite a few travelers I've met along the way have had a lot of negative things to say about it (it's polluted, the traffic is nuts, it's dirty, it's too busy, etc.). But Phnom Penh and I got along just fine. Yes, the traffic is nuts but in an entertaining way (for me anyway). Picture New York City traffic except instead of yellow cabs you have motorbikes, cars and SUVs. And no traffic lights! It's complete craziness but somehow it works.

On my first full day there I spent most of the day on the back of a motorbike (it's the best way to get to the sights). So, for $10, I had my own driver from 9:30 until about 5. I wish I could have put a camera to my helmet because words cannot do justice to the traffic. There are no rules, you just go and people let you in. It was quite funny to see Chi, my driver, make a left-hand turn into the lanes with on-coming traffic. He would just continue zipping along until he could glide into the right lane. And intersections are amazing to watch! Cars and motorbikes edge forward to either cross a highway or turn into it and they keep edging out until they are in the way of oncoming traffic. I will say it was a bit unnerving to see a van or car heading straight for us. But, as you can tell from this email, I survived. I also wore a helmet. There was a moment when I was a bit fearful but after passing a motorbike with a male driver with two kids and a woman, that moment passed. There's me hanging on tightly while women passengers sit sidesaddle. Too funny. It was like being a part of a Bourne Identity chase scene.

On a more serious note, I went to visit two places that shed light on Cambodia's past. The first stop, S-21 was a former school that the Khmer Rouge turned into a holding cell/torture chamber during the 1970s. It was truly a somber and sad thing to witness but one that I felt was necessary. It's always one thing to read about history but to stand right where it happened, to see what was done, drives the point home. From there I went to The Killing Fields. This is where people who didn't die in s-21 and other victims were brought daily to be killed. They were told to kneel before a shallow mass grave before a blunt instrument was used to knock them out and into the grave where there throats were then slit. Just awful. Again, a somber experience.

From Phnom Penh I took an "air-conditioned" bus to Batdambang (northward bound). You know it's hot when the locals start fanning themselves. It was five hours of stuffiness which led to me splurging on an air-conditioned room. Truth be told, I enjoy the rooms with just a fan. It works for me. But after that bus ride, AC was on the menu!

Batdambang is a compact little place. Lots of old French buildings along a peaceful riverfront. My cooking class was good fun (I didn't burn down the place). There were eight of us and we cooked three meals although we all agreed we wouldn't be able to remember it! Thankfully we got cookbooks at the end.

Today I spent a lovely couple of hours cycling outside of Batdambang. It was such a gorgeous ride, winding roads shaded by coconut tree leaves. Again, the kids make such excursions well worth it. They always yell out hello or wave or run after you.

Tomorrow I am heading to Siem Reap. I am taking a boat. Leaves at 7 a.m. and takes about 5-6 hours. Have heard it's a very scenic ride, but I've also heard they pack in passengers. And then there is the sun....although it's a covered boat, you can opt to sit on the roof (which many people say is the best for viewing and space). So, let the chips fall where they may!

It's sinking in that my trip is coming to an end. It seems like the days are quickly passing by. While I will miss it, I'm looking forward to seeing everyone.

Until next time!

Nuttter.

AT HOME:
An enormous 10 yard long container (a "skip") gets dropped in our driveway this weekend that will spell T H E E N D for the 45 black bags of concrete debris and old gnarly pieces of "de-nailed" wood (yes, I de-nail my debris) that has lined our porch for the last 3 weeks. It also marks the ACTUAL beginning of SHEETROCKING. Only 3 weeks behind schedule. I have taken the next week off work completely to really dig in and get some serious sanding and spackling done. I hope that by Wednesday I will have all the sheetrocking up and can start working on the floors whilst spackling like a...spackler?

written by

Groovespook on August 14, 2009 from Batdambang, Cambodia

from the travel blog: Nuttter's S.E. Asian Escapade

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