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exumenius

170 Blog Entries
2 Trips
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Kiwis and Kangaroos

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GVN Christmas Party - Night 64

Wellington, New Zealand

Another day off for the overworked GVN volunteers. Today’s excuse for not working was the official company Christmas party. Toby drove us down to a park on Eastbourne for the big event. When we arrived, Colin, the founder of GVN, was busy handing out glasses of champagne and overseeing the grilling activities. The entire GVN office was in attendance, pushing our party to about 30 people.

After the big feed and the secret santa handout (I got a box of candy, ick) the locals went over to the big play Field and started a game of cricket. Us Americans held steadfast and started our own game of football. In order to bolster our numbers we had to recruit the two German and one English girl to play.


Two Americans Playing Cricket
Teaching European girls how to play American Football is a hopeless activity. Eventually our game fell apart and I joined the Cricket game. Although baseball skills come in handy while batting, nothing prepares you for the awkward motion required of the bowler (pitcher). It is a sort of full windmill delivery in which you cannot bend your elbow and feels incredibly stupid when you first try to do it.

Tonight was my night to cook and chili was on the menu. Having never made chili before I diligently followed a recipe I found on the internet. The result was a very hot chili, one almost too hot to eat. Either I can’t read a recipe or the chili powder here in NZ is extra strength. Luckily we had leftovers from the party to quell everyone’s hunger. This event both began and ended my illustrious chili-making career.

What I Learned Today: Not only is Cricket a mind-numbingly boring game to watch, it is also wickedly boring to play. Sort of like drunken batting practice in the middle of a soccer Field.


permalink written by  exumenius on December 13, 2007 from Wellington, New Zealand
from the travel blog: Kiwis and Kangaroos
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Sailing the Harbour - Night 63

Wellington, New Zealand


Getting Instructions from Terry
Life as a volunteer is rough. We took the day off today and commandeered the GVN sailboat for a day on Wellington Harbour. Since none of us are ordained sailors, the company hired Terry, a certified master yachtsman, to guide us for the day. An older gentleman, Terry was the quintessential New Zealander, patient, sarcastic, and very proud of his country. If you really wanted to see him worked up just mention the shenanigans from the America’s cup race in Seville this summer – the Kiwis narrowly lost in the finals. Almost as much bitterness as a Cubs fan.

We were Split into three teams and took turns manning the boat, while Terry oversaw and told stories about past regattas he’d been in or pointed out which of the Lord of the Rings cast lived in which mansion along the water; a superb tour guide and yachtsman. When traveling with the wind, taking the


The Sentinel
helm meant little more than steering around the multitude of rocks and reef that pervade Wellington Harbour, rocks and reefs that have sent more than a few much larger and famous ships to their demise in years past. However, on the way back in we actually had to practice some tried and true sailing techniques. Cruising into the wind, sail slack and direction all matter to an immense degree. Generally, you must either sacrifice bearing or speed, i.e. the less you head directly into the wind the faster you can go, but the more zig-zags you must make. We returned to dock around 5pm, a solid 7 hours on the water.

What I Learned Today: There is something ancestral to the art of sailing. Tacking against the wind at 8 knots using only the power of a stiff head wind to propel your 13-ton boat on a zigzag pattern through the Harbor speaks to man’s atavistic mastery of the basics of physics. Picture Vasco de Gama rounding Cape Horn, Zheng He discovering America, or Tommie Boy praying for wind.



permalink written by  exumenius on December 12, 2007 from Wellington, New Zealand
from the travel blog: Kiwis and Kangaroos
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On the Trail of Possums - Night 62

Wellington, New Zealand

Today’s activities took us to East Harbor

Lunch in the Glen
Park just across the bay from Lower Hutt. Our stated objective was to check and re-bait a line of possum and rat traps throughout the park. The catch was that our designated line was located in the valley between the two mountain ranges so we would have to hike over the first ridge in order to get to our traps. After two hours of steep climbing up and down we arrived at a small picnic area to lunch. Post-meal we split into three teams, Red Hedgehog, Green Gorilla, and Pink Panther and took off armed with notebooks, poison and walkie-talkies. The line of traps was connected by a marked trail, though not one that was well maintained. Thus our hike was more of a bush walk than a proper tramping experience.


The Fern Forest
Winding along the creek bottom the flora in this area is amazing; monstrous fern trees, huge Kiara pines and an assortment of smaller palm-like plants. All of which give the area a pre-historic feel to it. Since food is quite plentiful this time of year, barely any of the rat poison had been touched and up until the last two traps, there were no signs of possum activity. The second to last trap, however, yielded a catch; a large possum killed in the strangling trap mounted to the tree. It was the first catch in over three months of monitoring. (Note: other groups monitor during the weeks we don’t so it is possible that someone had recently recorded a catch.) After the long hike along our possum line, we had to once again climb up and down the ridge to get back to the van. A few of the non-hikers in the group

The Prize Catch
were noticeably suffering at this point. All told, nearly 7 hours of hiking.

On the way home, Toby dropped me off at the Queensgate mall to mail my Christmas presents home and to pick up a gift for the secret Santa swap at Thursday’s GVN Christmas Party. Climbing the hill back to the volunteer house has never felt so difficult.

What I Learned Today: Do not under any circumstances try to mail anything home from overseas. It is not so much the cost, which is certainly high enough, but the sheer amount of paperwork that is required to mail a package through U.S. customs which makes the endeavor truly excruciating. Not only are you required to name and value each item in the box, but also give its country of manufacture and its intended use. Seriously, how the fuck should I know where they made a plastic snow globe with a Kiwibird in the middle. My guess would be China, but if I’m wrong, will they confiscate it? Also, how could one possible speculate at the intended use of Christmas gifts? As the purchaser I would hope the receiver cherishes the gift and carries it around as a talisman for all of eternity, but the realist in me supposes that it will just end up in some miscellaneous drawer with the incomplete decks of cards, random paper clips and rubber bands, and photos from middle school. On top of it all, I didn’t know my own local New Zealand phone number or address so I had to make it up, though with an educated guess. Oh, that and I failed to mention the coins that I am sending home, all 80 cents worth. I give my package a 40% chance of actually making it home for Christmas.



permalink written by  exumenius on December 11, 2007 from Wellington, New Zealand
from the travel blog: Kiwis and Kangaroos
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Restoration in Paraparaumu - Night 61

Wellington, New Zealand

An hour long drive landed us just north of

Lunch on the Porch
Paraparaumu at a privately-owned marshland restoration project. Held under the Queen Elizabeth II Land Trust, the land has been placed under covenants that will retain it in its undeveloped nature for perpetuity. The two owners of the land have been removing non-native pine trees and replanting paddocks with native marsh plants for nearly five years now. Progress is coming along as one would expect with nature; slowly but surely. Located only 500 meters from the coast, the property offers spectacular views of Kapiti Island, the largest island off of this section of the North Island’s west coast – also held as a nature reserve.

Kapiti Island in the Distance

Again we found ourselves ‘releasing’ plants for the duration of the morning. As it happens, this time of year in New Zealand is often too dry to plant so conservation volunteers end up doing a fair share of weeding, with the hope that the ‘released’ plants will be better able to survive the warm, dry summer without the competition from nearby weeds. As I’ve mentioned before, the entire North Island is in a serious drought so we spent the afternoon watering and applying organic B&B (blood and bone) fertilizer to the plants. With eleven volunteers and only two water hoses, a bottleneck occurred at the watering stations. To cope with such inefficiency I snuck off and took a rather undeserved nap in the weeds.

What I Learned Today: I consider myself fairly open-minded with respects to people involved in non-conventional relationships. However, upon arriving at the volunteer location today the minute I found out that the two elderly women (late 60s/early 70s) cohabitated in the house my mind immediately jumped to the conclusion that they were lesbians. This assumption was made almost subconsciously and certainly without malice. Why, though? Are we really that conditioned to judge as such anyone not living in a normal (or rather, typical, for what exactly is normal?) situation? In all actuality, they are probably widows living together to share the high cost of home ownership and to retain companionship in their old age. Try and try as we might, we seem to be incapable of escaping our prejudicial natures.


permalink written by  exumenius on December 10, 2007 from Wellington, New Zealand
from the travel blog: Kiwis and Kangaroos
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A Long Walkabout - Night 60

Wellington, New Zealand


Belmont Trig
Although our location here in Lower Hutt, a suburb of Wellington, does not offer easy access to the central city, it more than makes up for it with proximity to some truly great natural areas. Not to allow these opportunities to go to waste, I spent the morning and early afternoon hiking through the southern portion of the massive Belmont Regional Park. My trek began along the sinuous Korakora Dam trail leading up to Belmont Trig, the second highest peak in the park. After a brief rest at the top, I avoided the main trail on the way down and took the looping Horokiwi path on my descent back into the valley. Obviously very rarely traveled, the grass was hardly matted down and keeping to the path was at times difficult. The solitude and silence of it all easily offset the navigational difficulties.

At Baked Beans Bend (the etymology of this particular nomenclature remains unclear to me) I met back up with the main trail and with what was to be the first of a large race taking place on the trail. Having no other way to get back to civilization, I had to fight my way back along the narrow track against this running, jogging, and walking mass of humanity. Though I eventually lost count, the


View from Belmont Trig Peak
number was easily over 200 hundred participants. Viewing a race from this perspective turned out to be quite interesting and in the end I was glad I happened upon the event. At first you pass the serious racers, moving at good speed, faces full of grit and determination. Mostly under 40 males, with a few females mixed in. Nary a smile in the group. Next came the older ex-athletes, younger relatively fit couples in which one member convinced the other to do this, and the fathers with teenage sons trying to teach them the joys of physical competition. This group proved a bit more relaxed and friendly, though it was very easy to tell which member of the couple was the driving force behind their entry. Finally at the end came the old, the young and the fat. Their pace was a slow stroll, their faces all smiles. Just a group of out of shape individuals enjoying a beautiful New Zealand day in the woods. It was much like progressing from shopping at REI to Eddie Bauer to Walmart. Or like driving from Seattle to Kansas City to New Orleans.

I exited the trail in Petone, which some


A Meal at BurgerWisconsin
early morning research told me was the home of a BurgerWisconsin franchise. I arrived a bit early (they opened at 12) and killed some time watching a cricket game in the park. The rules of cricket have been explained to me more than a few times since I’ve been here and I think I am beginning to understand, however, I cannot get over the crushing boredom of actually watching the game. I would honestly rather sit down in front of the TV for the Senior Women’s Golf Tour or Professional Bowling than a live Cricket match. Perhaps it is the fact that grown men are dressed in white pants and ridiculous sweater vests while engaged in what appears to be stiff athletic competition. I wouldn’t be the least bit surprised if the Tweedledee, Tweedledum and large human playing cards came tramping out from under the grandstand.

Back at the BurgerWisconsin restaurant I order a Bacon and Avocado burger. When my food arrived the bun was massive dwarfing the burger inside. In all honesty it was a damned good burger, but not the world’s best, as advertised on the sign. The waitress/cook was who was wearing a BurgerWisconsin shirt informed me that I could not buy one on the premises. She suggested perhaps emailing someone off of the website. English was not her first language nor was pleased to be working all by herself on a Sunday afternoon.

What I Learned Today: While being 7,000 miles away from home for the holidays will likely be a bit trying, it sure has made Christmas shopping easy. Having already purchased the box to send home selecting gifts was easy: the smallest and lightest things possible. Everything has to fit in this box and the more it weighs the more expensive it is. With this in mind my Christmas shopping commenced at 2:30 and was promptly finished at 3:15. 45 minutes, my new personal best. This is not to say the gifts possesses any less meaning than in years past, rather, they are simply less materially substantial.

permalink written by  exumenius on December 9, 2007 from Wellington, New Zealand
from the travel blog: Kiwis and Kangaroos
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Exploring Wellington - Night 59

Wellington, New Zealand

I decided to do the proper tourist thing today and explore downtown Wellington. The morning air was calm and pleasant, so rather than bus it, I happily hoofed it the 40 minutes to the Central Hutt train station where I caught the 8:33 into the city. As any guide book will tell you, you should start a

Te Papa
tour of Wellington with a walk along the harbor on your way to Te Papa, the New Zealand national museum. So I did. Wellington reminds me of a mini-Seattle; a curved waterfront, hilly streets, cruise ships, industrial harbor operations, mountains in the distance, and a subtle aura of cultural refinement. Te Papa is a massive museum and since entry is free, I wandered only the first three floors on this trip, leaving the remaining exhibits for future visits. One can only read and contemplate museum type illustrations for so long – my experience has shown this to be about 2.5 hours.


The Wellington Waterfront
After a delicious Malaysian lunch, I just sort of meandered the streets for a while, exploring used book and clothing stores, taking some photos, and generally trying to get lost. Around 2pm I stumbled across a Climate Change Fair occurring in the Civic Centre. Perusing the exhibits, I found that there would be a special showing of the 11th Hour today at 3pm. I missed this film in the US and have been trying to locate a showing venue ever since I’ve been overseas so it was my lucky day. I purchased a ticket and made my way to the theatre, located on the corner of Taranaki and Ghunzee Streets. Narrated by Leonardo DiCaprio, the 11th Hour picked up where The Inconvenient Truth left off. Rather than showing a young Al Gore and meaningless family photos, the 11th Hour concentrated on the wealth of data, actual expert interviews, and, most importantly, some solutions to anthropogenic climate change. It is hard not to feel empowered, though with a slight sense of urgency, after seeing this film. A shame that the DVD will not be out by Christmas.

I returned home and spent much of the evening weeding the garden (my assigned chore for the week). Exhausted from a long day of walking, my Saturday night turned out quite uneventful, as I lay in bed reading until about 10pm. Sometimes my actions are entirely unbecoming for my age.

What I Learned Today: Man’s capacity for innovation and genius appears only to be matched by our stubbornness and greed.


permalink written by  exumenius on December 8, 2007 from Wellington, New Zealand
from the travel blog: Kiwis and Kangaroos
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Trash Palace - Night 58

Wellington, New Zealand

Rather than our usual natural conservation

The Trash Palace
activities, today’s job occurred on the other end of the human material consumption spectrum: recycling wastes. The Trash Palace is an electronic waste refurbishment and recycling center owned and operated by a non-profit entity. Working in conjunction with the Wellington Council Mental Health Division, the Trash Palace also employs a number of mentally-handicapped individuals. The site manager, Rob, was everything you would expect from a man in his position; cheerful, energetic, and genuinely just a nice guy.


Destroying a Computer
The Trash Palace’s goal of reducing, and eventually eliminating, most forms of e-waste from Wellington’s landfills is progressing much better than expected, as evidenced by their backlog of wastes and ever growing facility. Here is where the GVN volunteers come in. Computer towers, monitors, and printers are some of Trash Palace’s most common items. These outdated ubiquitous technological centerpieces have been piling up at the Palace; it is our job to take a chunk out of said pile. Stuart, the electronic materials recovery boss, gave us a quick rundown of what jobs were available and we split up according to preference. Nikos and Toby grabbed old monitors off of a heap and smashed them to the ground, opened them up and removed graphite and copper pieces. Patricia and I, farther down the line, took old CPU motherboards and monitor innards, stripped them of all the copper motor coils, wire, and aluminum. In another room Jake was busy removing magnets from microwaves. Stuart noted that 90% of school science teachers in the southern part of the North Island buy magnets from the Trash Palace. The girls gathered in the main garage to gossip and strip copper wire.

In the evening, the television sat dormant (for once) and we all sat around and played cards. I emerged victorious from a nearly violent game of spoons. As I’ve mentioned before, the GVN volunteer house here in Wellington is many times nicer than the accommodations in Brisbane, however, the functioning TV and DVD player seem to be a curse in disguise. I guess having weaned myself from the idiot box many years ago I am a bit shocked at how much TV people can watch in a day. From the moment we get home until 11 or 12 at night, the evening revolves around the television. The weekends are even worse. This should come as no surprise to me, but it does. While I suppose it doesn’t help that we are a bit stranded in suburbia, I truly thought that the type of people who signed up for conservation volunteering would be of a bit different persuasion.

What I Learned Today: Ever since my graduate school research into Industrial Ecology I’ve been interested in closing material loops. A tenet of sustainability, recreating nature’s cyclical processes must be the end goal of civilization’s production and consumption cycle. For most of us, the minute it leaves our house, garbage is no longer an issue. Spending a day at a material’s recovery site can greatly change your outlook, so much so, that I think rather than taking school children to amusement parks and theatres, we should be bringing them to garbage dumps and wastewater treatment plants. Give them a quick peek into the belly of modern civilization. All ideological musings aside, I learned from Stuart that for every kilogram of copper we salvaged from the computers saved numerous tons of excavation. Not to put a damper on the weeding and planting that we do, but in all actuality we probably saved more habitat and reduced more carbon output today by salvaging copper than in the previous four days of performing more conventional conservation work.


permalink written by  exumenius on December 7, 2007 from Wellington, New Zealand
from the travel blog: Kiwis and Kangaroos
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Otari Wilson's Bush - Night 57

Wellington, New Zealand

We awoke to a dark sky and howling winds. It looked, smelled, and sounded like rain, but as fate would have it, New Zealand is in a drought and no rain would fall today. We drove to Otari Wilson’s Bush, one of the last remaining stands of native timber in the Wellington. Our morning chores involved a lengthy hike on which we checked the status of numerous rat traps throughout the reserve.

Resetting the Trap
All seventeen stations remained free of victims. According to the team leaders, the rat trapping program at Otari Wilson hasn’t exactly been all that successful. The time wasn’t a complete waste though as the hike was great exercise and took us through some amazing forests, including underneath a massive 800-year old Remu tree, one of few such remaining behemoths in the area.

The wind continued to blow violently all day, but we didn’t notice it until we came out of the bush for lunch. Beneath our sweat-laden clothes, the brisk wind chilled our bones and


An 800-year old Monster
we quickly ate and rushed off to our afternoon activity. We split into two groups, one group weeding, while the other measured a section of planted trees in order to monitor growth. An hour later we swapped positions. On the way home, we took a detour through Jubilee Park in hopes of finding a Christmas tree, but none such luck would be had. We may have to break down and purchase one this weekend, for a home is not a home in December without the smell of a Christmas tree.

What I Learned Today: At times in my life I have been imbued with an atavistic, almost animal, sense of energy, a seemingly unstoppably need to run through the woods, climb trees, splash in the water…you know the feeling. Today was another one of those times. It could be the cool wind, the amazing natural setting, and the overall relaxation and joy that I have been experiencing over the past few months that have released this internal fire in me, but, regardless of the reason, lately I’ve been having this feeling much more often. I truly feel more in touch with some innate, often hidden side of human nature….and this is a good thing.


permalink written by  exumenius on December 6, 2007 from Wellington, New Zealand
from the travel blog: Kiwis and Kangaroos
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Eastbourne Dunes - Night 56

Wellington, New Zealand

Today’s project took us to the east coast

Weeding at Eastbourne
of Wellington Bay to the town of Eastbourne. Much like West Seattle, Eastbourne offers stunning views of the city skyline from across the water. The work itself, however, was less than stunning. Hours of weeding the sand dunes was quite boring – though it did hold a certain therapeutic quality to it. Our lunch was taken at a spectacular ultra-modern house over looking the bay. Designed by some famous architect, whose name escapes me, the place fit perfectly into the rock wall and was composed primarily of a glass and steel exterior, with all wood interiors. A nice place to say the least.


Ray's House
On the way home we stopped at our Team Leader Ray’s house so she could change for the beach. Not to be outdone, the place she rents is every bit as spectacular as the home we dined at for lunch, only in a much more peculiar way. It looks like something a witch might live in. Once at the beach, Jake and I fulfilled our GVN rite of passage by diving off of the Eastbourne Pier into the freezing cold bay. Althouth not quite as cold as the Puget Sound, the bay still gave you quite a shock once you hit the water.
Tonight was mine and Nikos’s turn to cook. He delivered some pork and tofu schnitzels, while I offered up some of dad’s potatoes along with a large toss salad.

Diving off the Eastbourne Pier

What I Learned Today: Do not try to cook Dan Krause’s famous Parmesan Potatoes in a Chinese Wok.


Sunset in New Zealand

permalink written by  exumenius on December 5, 2007 from Wellington, New Zealand
from the travel blog: Kiwis and Kangaroos
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Maintaining Makara Peak - Night 55

Wellington, New Zealand


View from Makara Peak
Toby arrived at the house around 9 and we all piled into the red van for a drive up to Makara Peak. Today’s work would include track work and weeding at the Makara Peak, the City of Wellington’s world famous (at least in biking circles) mountain bike park located just minutes from downtown. Along the way, we picked up our city liaison, Jonathan. A trained ecologist, Jonathan

Makara Peak
now works part-time for the city maintaining the Makara Peak park, publishes biking books with his brother, and has begun to dabble in carbon farming. New Zealand, being environmentally innovative, has implemented carbon trading as a method to dissuade polluters and persuade land owners to retain native (or planted) forests. Basically, Jonathan’s land, which is forested, is worth a certain number of carbon credits which he can sell to local industries at an agreed upon price – currently around $25 a hectare per year. He and his associates are chancing on an increased demand for credits and, thus, they are in the process of looking for more forested land to buy on the south island. He and I spent much of the afternoon picking each other’s brains on the state of the others country’s feelings on climate change, farm subsidies, and politics in general.

Group Photo at Makara

Since the weather was abnormally calm we spent the entire morning removing rocks and fixing ruts along one of the many bike tracks leading down from the peak. The afternoon saw us weeding the southern slope of the summit which had become overrun with invasive gorse and Dutch holly. Both plants are incredibly persistent and need to be dabbed with gelatin poison within one minute of cutting their stems. Interestingly, a bit of controversy surrounds the gorse plant. While certainly a prolific spreader and an exotic plant from South America (not to mention the sharp spikes covering the entire plant), the gorse is a nitrogen fixer and provides great growing conditions for smaller native trees. As such, many ecologists suggest leaving the gorse plant stay unless it is direct conflict with rare native species.

It was a good, hard day on the mountain. Our reward was a build your own pizza night. After dinner, we sat down for a nice family viewing of the movie ‘300’. A tale of the small group of Spartans’ stand against the mighty Persian armies of Xerxes, the film was every bit as gory as the DVD cover indicated. A masterpiece of computer graphics and cinematography, the plot in and of itself was rather weak. But then again, this movie wasn’t about plot, it was about the glorification of sacrifice and stubbornness (and xenophobia)…and in that it succeeded. All critical comments aside, the historical significance of the event should not be forgotten, for many scholars attribute the continuance of the Greek society and thus the rise of all of Western Civilization to the bravery of these 300 men. For without their having stood against Xerxes, all of Europe would likely have been eventually developed as Middle Eastern societies.

What I Learned Today: With Kevin Rudd’s victory over John Howard in the Australian election last week, Australia is certain to sign the Kyoto Protocol, leaving only the United States as the lone non-signatory. Granted, I will be the first one to admit that a treaty that doesn’t require any emissions regulation for China or India cannot be the final answer to climate change, it is, nonetheless, a start. Our signing of the treaty would show that we as a nation have accepted anthropogenic climate change as a fact and are beginning to work towards correcting the problem. Whether or not this is possible in our country filled with 300 million people -- most of who want to live like kings -- has yet to be seen, but as an old Chinese man once said: the longest of journeys starts with the single step.

The reason I bring this up is that, though likely all of you back home may not think about the Kyoto Protocol on a daily basis, many may not even know what it is; the rest of the world is more than concerned about it. Because of this very fact, being an American overseas we must answer to our nation’s failure to act on the issue. The most prevalent comment is a question “why are the citizens of your country not calling for action on climate change?” A great question indeed. Yes, some are, but others stand firmly in the camp of “let’s wait for more data.” Thirty years of studies, thousands of reports, 99% of which support anthropogenic climate change, and now, actual action/non-action scenario studies…scary scenario studies showing that much can be saved in way of lives and money if we act sooner rather than later. Yet this is not enough for some…for many, in fact, many of whom believe in great miracles and mysteries ‘recorded’ by goat herders two thousand years ago, but yet adamantly doubt thousands of scientific studies performed in the last few years -- the same science that powers their cars, heats their homes, and transmits live signals to their televisions. I now see why citizens of other nations look upon us and wonder what exactly is going on in America.

permalink written by  exumenius on December 4, 2007 from Wellington, New Zealand
from the travel blog: Kiwis and Kangaroos
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