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The Cossette Family Sabbatical

a travel blog by pscossette


Off we go to France and Spain as Paul takes a sabbatical from Mortenson for the next 6 weeks. We will try and keep everyone posted on how our travels are going!

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Day 20

Pamplona, Spain


This should be a lucky day by the date. Is our luck good enough to run with the bulls? We shall see. Up way before dawn, the 5 of us packed into the car and set off for Pamplona. The route took us over some pretty tall mountains and through several tunnels. It was very foggy at some points so Paul was very much awake by the time we arrived in Pamplona. The sun still was not up, but the town was wide awake. Signs of a huge all night party were everywhere. The streets were filled with drunks and empty bottles and the not so faint odor of all that comes with that. We were to meet a guide to take us to a balcony to watch the festivities at a hotel near the center of town. We parked in the middle of the street behind a bunch of other cars doing the same and ran to the hotel where we amazingly found our guide right away. He was from Seattle, but now lives most of the time in Pamplona. He said it is a much nicer place in about a week.

We then joined a group of about 12 of us to head to our balconies. We were warned to stay close and hold on to our wallets and each other. Luckily there was a TV camera man following our group so we could see his camera above the crowd. Even so, we did get separated and almost squished a couple of times. The idea of being up on a balcony safe above the hoards seemed very attractive. We eventually reached our host apartment and were welcomed by two very nice ladies into a beautiful apartment above the throng. One of the members of our group did get his pocket picked of about $350 Euros on the way.

Our view was perfect. We were right where the first and second turns of the course were and watched the police clear the streets and the clean them before they started the running promptly at 8:00.

There was a police line holding back a throbbing mass of revelers all dressed in white with red scarves and sashes, most covered in wine stains. The firecrackers went off and the crowd was all running to find their spots along the street. A second set of firecrackers and the bulls came running around the first turn. The bulls appeared to be much less dangerous than the crowd of runners. In about 2 minutes it was all over, much like the Kentucky Derby. We then watched the highlights on TV and when the drunks had somewhat dispersed we ventured back onto the street.

We went and got our obligatory T-shirts and red scarves and sashes so we would be ready for next time or maybe just Halloween. Then 5 very sleepy people piled back into the car and headed to Valladalid to drop off Serina. We stopped for lunch in Burgos which was a very pretty town situated along a nice river.

Serina introduced us to her host Mother, who was very gracious and let us use here internet connection to book a hotel in Madrid for that night. John was going to leave early the next morning so we found a hotel near the airport to make things easy and set off for Madrid, about 2 hours away.

We followed our GPS to the hotel once we arrived in Madrid, for about another 2 hours. We circled the same spots, on ramps , off ramps (all of which seemed to be numbered the same) and decided at that point we would turn the car in and take taxis even though we had paid for a couple of more days. The wear and tear on our relationships and the loss of vacation bliss was not worth it. We did finally find the largest hotel in Europe, or at least it seemed that way, filled with tourists. We threw our stuff in our room and took a shuttle bus to the center of the city and had a very nice dinner just off the Plaza Mayor. Mark even thought the “chicken” was pretty good. It was really roast leg of lamb, but who’s telling. We then crashed into bed as the 7th of July had been a very very long day.


permalink written by  pscossette on July 7, 2007 from Pamplona, Spain
from the travel blog: The Cossette Family Sabbatical
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Day 21

Madrid, Spain


Paul got John off to the airport and home to Christmas Lake. We were going to miss him, but he thought he was ready to get back to America. Paul returned the car and we decided to give Madrid a second try since dinner had been nice the night before. We were not going to experience real Madrid from our current hotel so Paul booked us into the Villa Real near the Prada for 2 nights. Our room was fantastic. We had an upper and lower floor, two balconies that over looked the square and Spain’s Congress building. The area was filled with squares, restaurants, museums, and a very short walk to Madrid’s version of Central Park. Paul went and extended our stay to 4 nights. We relaxed in our room, went to the Park and relaxed some more while Mark explored, then off to the Sunday night Bull Fight.

The bull fighting is quite interesting and we are glad we have seen it once, but that is enough. This night was for the lesser known and less experienced matadors. They dressed with all the glamour of the famous matadors and there was great pomp and circumstance when they entered the ring. The first bull entered the ring and appeared to try to get back out again. I think he had some prior knowledge of what this was going to end like. First several matadors or helpers try to rile up the bull, then after a horn is sounded a horse and rider come out and tease the bull into attacking them. When the bull charges, he is poked in the back by a large spear. Next the Matador holds 2 picadors and attempts to stick them in the bull’s neck while being charged. This is repeated 3 times to loosen the neck muscles of the bull to hasten the kill at the end of the fight. Now the matador places his hat in the ring and does his one on one dance with the bull, trying not to get the horn. Finally, the matador places a sword in the bull’s neck that is meant to kill it quickly when removed. If that doesn’t do it, a dagger is used. Once the bull is dead he is hooked up to a couple of horses and dragged from the ring. We stayed for 3 bulls and as the skill of the matador improved, the suffering of the bull definitely lessened.


permalink written by  pscossette on July 8, 2007 from Madrid, Spain
from the travel blog: The Cossette Family Sabbatical
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Day 22

Madrid, Spain


We decided to get the lay of the land today so we hopped on Madrid Vision tourist bus in the nearby square. It really is a nice way to get your bearings and find out what all those statues on every few corners or squares are for. We felt the need for a coffee so hopped off in a very nice neighborhood near a park. After a bit of caffeine we walked through the park and explored a 400 BC Roman temple that had been given to Spain for help with some war or another. It was pretty amazing. The views over the valleys that spread out from Madrid were also very pretty. Madrid is at 2000ft, the highest city in Spain.

We hopped back on the bus for awhile and then a stop in Plaza del Sol for some more exploration and to get a treat for Mark. We found the perfect chocolate and churro spot. The hot chocolate here is more like a thin pudding, and the churros are nothing like Taco John’s. Imagine dipping a nice greasy donut into a warm pudding that hasn’t quite set yet. That is hot chocolate in Spain. We then walked to Plaza Mayor for a little lunch and back on the bus we went. Next stop was the Cento de Arte Reina Sofia to see Picasso’s Guernica. The painting is Picasso’s protest of Franco and his fascist government in Spain. It is Picasso’s view of what took place in Guernica when Franco allowed Hitler to test his bombs on the town. It was especially moving as Guernica is located very near San Sebastian.

Mark had been cooped up for quite awhile now so Paul took him back to Retiro Park to feed the fish in the pond and rent a row boat. Suzy went and relaxed on her veranda with a glass of wine. We all do what we have to do. Mark was filled with McDonalds and hooked to the internet for the evening so Suzy and Paul could find their new local Tapas bar just across the street. We had two drinks and 3 tapas in a very friendly and active bar for only 5 Euros. This became our home away form home for a couple days. Even Mark eventually found that he enjoyed this spot.


permalink written by  pscossette on July 9, 2007 from Madrid, Spain
from the travel blog: The Cossette Family Sabbatical
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Day 23

Madrid, Spain


We have an appointment with Vincent Van Gough this morning. The Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum has an exhibit of paintings from the last 90 days of Van Gough’s life, prior to his suicide. He had a very tortured soul, but the beautiful paintings of this period certainly didn’t show it. There was also an exhibit of Richard Este’s paintings, which is also one of our favorite contemporary artists so it was a real bonus. This was our favorite art museum so far and we have been in a lot of museums the last few weeks.

Our laundry we had asked the hotel to do was back in our room upon our return. The bill was 168 Euro. It was probably the most well pressed laundry we ever had or ever will have. I told Paul that it just showed how much I was worth back at home. He was skeptical about that as he hasn’t had pressed shirts since leaving home at age 18. Anyway, so much for the deal we had gotten on the room rate.

Paul needed a new watch battery and was going to get us train tickets for the next portion of the trip so he headed in one direction and Mark and I went to the Wax Museum. This was Marks choice, and it was a lot of history about Spain, but all in Spanish so I did not catch a good deal of it. (I would say that this is a miss of you are planning time in Madrid.)


permalink written by  pscossette on July 10, 2007 from Madrid, Spain
from the travel blog: The Cossette Family Sabbatical
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Day 24

Madrid, Spain


Today is Holy Toledo day. We were up and going by 8:00 today, which is very early for us lately, so we could catch the train to Toledo. This was the Capital of Spain until 1561 when King Phillip II moved his court to Madrid. Toledo sits in the middle of the Iberian Peninsula so was a trade route for every power and religion in history. There is still a very strong Christian, Jewish, and Muslim presence here. The town is a historical shrine so the walled portion of the city is maintained as it has been for hundreds of years, other than the hundreds of tourist trap stores selling medieval weaponry. Mark as you can imagine was in heaven. Toledo is also well known for its metal work. The knives are some of the best in the world and the decorative metal plates with inlaid gold and bronze are everywhere. Mark made it his quest to find the perfect toy catapult. Paul and I quested after the perfect lunch. No surprise there.

Before lunch or any purchase we visited the most elaborate Cathedral in Spain. It contains so much famous art work including El Greco, Rubens, Goya, and Velázquez masterpieces. This is the real reason one should travel to Toledo, a most definite do not miss. El Greco who was born in Greece and trained in Italy said, while in Italy, that he would have done a much better job than Michelangelo on the Sistine chapel as that Michelangelo is a nice guy, but not a very good painter. He was then banished to Spain. He did leave some beautiful artwork in Toledo. We went in search of one of his most famous works next in a nearby chapel, Santo Tome’, The Burial of the
Count of Orgaz. This is another do not miss in Toledo.

Now we were ready for lunch at La Perdiz (the Partridge) where we had one of the best meals in Spain. Paul had the Partridge and Suzy the suckling pig, both of which were excellent, but the grilled goat cheese with caramelized onions was out of this world. This is one Suzy will be attempting to duplicate at home.

Full of good food and Toledo we caught a train back to Madrid 3 hours earlier than planned. The train station bears a mention. It was a beautiful tiled building in the Moorish tradition. The 30 minute ride back to Madrid wasn’t quite long enough for the nap we needed so we went back to the hotel to relax.

Paul was enjoying a nice glass of wine on the veranda when after a large noise noticed by Suzy, but not Paul, he says, “Where did the umbrella go?” We quickly located it on the next veranda. A call to the front desk required the manager to come to the room as we had a bit of a language barrier with the words flying umbrella. By the time he got there, the umbrella was on the roof. “Not Good”, were his words. Soon it was 6 stories below on the ground, thankfully not hitting any bystanders or vehicles. We were without an umbrella the rest of the stay.

After recovering, Paul and Suzy went to dinner and a Flamenco show at Taberna Casa Patas. Its nick name is the house of feet and that is very apt. The dancers have incredible energy and stamina to move so fast in such a small warm little room. They were literally wringing wet after each performance. SKC


permalink written by  pscossette on July 11, 2007 from Madrid, Spain
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Day 25

Madrid, Spain


Our last day in Madrid and Spain for that matter. Mark wanted to go to two museums today, the Archeological and Navel museums. We started at the Archeology museum which was filled with ancient artifacts and art. Lot’s of mummies, skulls, and old art and pottery. The Roman mosaics were very cool. Our hotel room was also decorated with 3rd century Roman Mosaics.

We then had a nice lunch on Passeo de Recoletos, a wide treed area with side walk cafes where Spain’s famous authors often meet to talk. There was an artist painting our lunch scene. We didn’t stay to see the finished painting. Next to the Navel museum that was unfortunately closed so we went back to the Park again as Mark had no interest in going to the Prada, the last big art museum on our to-do list. Paul and I took turns going to the Prada while the other watched Mark in the park. There was an artist painting pictures with spray paint in the park that had Mark captivated. He would paint very elaborate scenes on a paper in about 5 minutes. Then right on to the next one. He would get about six done and take a break to sell them. Then he would repeat the whole process.

The Prada was filled with whole galleries of masterpieces rather than one or two famous works mixed with lesser known artists. It was quite amazing even though renaissance art isn’t my favorite.

We went back to our favorite Tapas bar for one last time for dinner and then to the train station for our overnight train to Bordeaux. We were in a sleeper car with 6 berths. The other three were filled with young English speaking men about John’s age. They were very nice and didn’t complain about Suzy’s snoring. It was really hot in the train and the kids partied in the hall for quite awhile into the night so we did not get much sleep, other than Mark who can sleep through anything. SKC



permalink written by  pscossette on July 12, 2007 from Madrid, Spain
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Day 26

Saint-Emilion, France


We did awake from what little sleep we did have in a new country with a new language. We switched trains just over the border as now we were in the French train system. There is little or no cooperation between French and Spanish transit. We arrived in Bordeaux at about 10:30, exhausted. We thought we might explore the town, but had just enough energy to find a lunch spot and eat. A glass of Rose and a nice little French meal with really great bread and we were ready to head to St-Emilion in the heart of fine wine country and our next hotel. The drive is really quite pretty with vineyards on every bit of available land the closer we got to St-Emilion. With some wines in the area selling for over 1000 Euro a bottle, you can see why.

Our hotel was a renovated Chateau just outside town with beautiful ground, a pool, and grape vines up to our patio. We got settled in and went to town to feed Mark, who didn’t want to eat at the fancy hotel restaurant. St-Emilion is a very old town built on the side of a large hill. It is filled with wine shops offering tasting of fine Bordeaux wines and restaurants. Mark was picky though and we found him a cheese pizza, what a waste. Paul and I went back to the hotel and had a very nice dinner outside at the hotel, overlooking a large yard and the vineyards. The chef did and excellent job of surprising us with new taste combinations. The red pepper sorbet was really memorable. SKC


permalink written by  pscossette on July 13, 2007 from Saint-Emilion, France
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Day 27

Saint-Emilion, France


I neglected to mention we had a nice swim in the pool yesterday afternoon and a bit of a nap around the pool. There were several English speaking guests at this hotel including a group from New Zealand that were having a great time. The typical sedate French hotel was challenged a bit by all of us non French tourists.

We got up and went back into St-Emilion to explore. After Mark had a hamburger we started checking out all the wine shops. Mark even enjoyed learning about Bordeaux wine. He was petty good at determining the contents of the bouquets, but often couldn’t get over “that alcohol smell”. We were looking for a 1982 wine as that is our wedding anniversary. 1982 was a very good year so the selection of available wines is scarce and expensive. We did find a nice bottle of Pomerol for 5000 Euros. I think we may have to celebrate with a nice 2000 vintage wine. We always new we were a fine vintage. The recommendations from most of the wine shops were to get 2005 Bordeaux now as it is going to be even better than the 1982 or 2000 vintages. The second labels of most of the Grand Cru Classic Chateaus are also very good wines that will cellar just a few years less than the first labels and are much less expensive. There are 7000 Chateaus in Bordeaux alone so finding the perfect wine is a bit overwhelming.

Paul and I decided we needed more training so we signed up for a wine tasting school. The class was led by a very funny guy who put on quite a show of being the Bordeaux wine snob. “That Beaujolais is made over night, not even really a wine, and the Rose’s, definitely not wine”, were a couple of his comments. We learned how to smell, swirl, taste, and check the legs after being tested on our ability to detect smells. I only got 3 correct out of 8, but I still know what I like and do not like.

We went back to the hotel for another swim and dinner. The plan was to eat and drive into Leborne to watch the fireworks as today is Bastille Day, or French Independence day. Dinner was a long and very enjoyable event. Mark even joined us for most of it. Just as we finished our dessert, we saw the first fireworks being shot off. We jumped in the car and got to town just in time for the grand finale. We had a perfect day!
SKC



permalink written by  pscossette on July 14, 2007 from Saint-Emilion, France
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Day 28

Nantes, France


We have been traveling for a month now and it is still wonderful. We would highly recommend a prolonged vacation to all who have a chance to take one. I think Paul will even survive in retirement as he is relaxed and has not even thought about work more than a couple times. More importantly, I think I will survive Paul’s retirement.

Today we are going to start toward Normandy. We will go a little over half way to Nantes. We drove through the wine area for awhile after loading Mark up on Dramamine and putting him in the front seat. The roads are quite winding and his stomach as we know is not very tolerant. After a tour of the country side we got onto the highway. We could have been in Minnesota by the scenery. The fields are smaller, but lots of corn and wheat, cows and sheep to be seen.

We decided to take a detour to La Rochelle along the way. This is a very nice seaside town that happened to have a music festival going on when we arrive. Lots of people and things to see. We had a very good seafood lunch near the pier before siteseeing. Suzy managed to get seperated from Mark and Paul when they headed to the beach. Mark was not too happy when we had to pack up from the beach and look for Suzy. She was eventually found, and we headed back to the beach for the afternoon. La Rochelle was a nice spot and a key sailing center and beach town, nice detour.

Nantes is not much of a city to look at. Apparently there are some interesting sights including a secret garden, but we could not find them. We could see the spires of the church we wanted to visit, but couldn’t make our way through the maze of one way streets and blocked roads by the above ground train system. After about 45 minutes of driving in circles we gave up and went to the hotel. There was a big thunderstorm and just as we sat down in a restaurant for dinner the lights went our. We had a half bottle of wine and by then the lights were on and we ordered a very nice dinner. It seems that no matter what is wrong with a place in France, they still have good food.
SKC



permalink written by  pscossette on July 15, 2007 from Nantes, France
from the travel blog: The Cossette Family Sabbatical
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Day 29

Pontorson, France


Today we are driving to Mont St Michelle in Normandy. After about 11/2 hours we turned a corner and caught a glimpse of the beautiful monastery on the mountain in Mont St Michele. The countryside is very flat along the northern coast of France and suddenly there is a mountain with a huge spire sticking out of the tide flats.

The legend is that St Michael, the archangel came to earth to convince the local Bishop to build a Monastery and cathedral on this mountain. He came to the bishop in dreams two nights in a row and the bishop ignored him. The third night, St Michael had lost his patience and pushed on the bishops head so hard that a hole was created in his skull showing he meant business. The nest day the bishop got started on the plans for the church which was built starting in the 8th century. This story lends a new meaning to the saying, “He must have a hole in his head.”

We climbed up the cobblestone streets to the base of the church. It was almost as crowded as Pamplona had been. The crowd was much better behaved though. We got tickets for the tour and had a very nice young lady, who said she was a trainee tour giver; you would never know it, take us and 4 others on an hour tour. It was very interesting and amazing to think about how they built this huge structure on the side of a pyramid shaped stone mountain. The views across the tide flats were amazing too. It was a very low tide and you could see forever. Until recently, pilgrims coming to this holy spot had to cross the tide flats, about 6 kilometers, during low tide to get here. Not so bad except the flats are filled with quick sand and when the tide comes in, it is at a rate of one meter per second. We learned much about Benedictine life in the monastery’s earlier years.
This a definite do not miss if you are in France.

We went and checked in to our hotel room, which had a full wall of windows that viewed the Mont. We decided to go back for dinner as there were many restaurants on the hill. We wanted to go have an omelet that had been cooked on a wood fire as we had watched them being made earlier in the day. As it happened we did not eat there, but would certainly try it in the future. We found a spot that had a view of the incoming tide for Mark and a hamburger steak that he though was wonderful. The Norman roast chicken and vegetables were pretty great too. The tide was going to be very high that evening so the announcement to move your cars out of the parking lot before they were under water was made. We were parked high and dry so we just sat and watched as it rushed in, and rushed it did. I would not have wanted to be about 1 kilometer away, walking around quick sand when it came in. The lights then came up on the cathedral and it was absolutely stunning. I actually got up in the night and sat by the hotel window for awhile just because of the amazing view.
SKC


permalink written by  pscossette on July 16, 2007 from Pontorson, France
from the travel blog: The Cossette Family Sabbatical
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