Morocco (1991)

Another wonderful day in the neighborhood.

After convincing the concierge that I was capable of walking by myself to the Saadian Tombs. I was given instructions and did just that -- although not as directly as I had hoped. Although I passed it once and ended up wandering through the Kasbah, eventually I got there and they were indeed quite lovely. From there i made my way to Bodi Palace, but it was closed for renovation. (My luck with edifices has not been too good).

From there I went to the Sar Si Said Museum but along the way I stopped at probably the only active synagogue in Morocco, and what a find! Only about 10 men and one woman (who looked just like Grandma Elaine). The Rabbi invited me to his home to eat after the services, and offer I could not refuse.

But first, the museum -- the best yet. A wonderful garden in the middle with spectacular rooms all around, particularly on the second level. The woodwork and stucco was truly magnificent.

Now, back to the rabbi. It was a beautiful house, nothing like the poverty described in the book. And the Sabbath table was laid out beautifully. I was offered more food than was humanly possible to eat -- and wine as well. I must admit that I got a bit drunk.

The house was the first one I had seen with books -- all in Hebrew. The rabbi was, like all good rabbis should be -- warm and friendly, humorous and kind. His family equally so. Truly a pleasure, and yet another side of Morocco. (Sadly, the guide who took me to the synagogue demanded more money than the agreed-upon $5 dh -- when I refused, he said, "you are a true jew" -- cutting, but also ironic considering that he ws the one trying to extract money from me).

After my midday meal, I went to the Bahia Palace. Although larger than Dar Si Said and maybe at one time grander, it certainly lacked by comparison. Additionally, I was forced to take on a guide who spoke no English. A nice fellow but no real help with information.

From there it was back to the souks and a view of the Medersa (nothing spectacular), the Koubba and some fountain not even worth a picture. Hassles were surprisingly few as I made my way through the various alleys.

Then it was bck to the hotel for a relaxing swim in the pool. Met Fath's nephew Sam (who was waiting for me when I got back to the hotel) for a long walk and talk -- very nice guy with interesting views. Also obviously very wealthy. He suggested a restaurant for dinner -- Catanzaro -- another obviously trendy place like the night before where everyone spoke French. What a contrast to the reality of the Medinas.