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Chris and Charly's Pacific Island Pit-Stop
a travel blog by
chrischarly
After 6 months in the Western world, it is time to put back on our backpacks, pack away the rain coats and hit the Pacific!
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Returning to gorgeous Fiji!
Suva
,
Fiji
Woke up, packed, showered and checked out before spending the morning yet again chatting to fellow travellers and sorting a few things on a horribly slow internet connection. Then Peter came and picked us up along with a few others and drove us to the airport to go on a small plane to Suva, Fiji’s capitol.
We opted to go to Suva instead of Nadi as it is closer to get on a
Ferry
to
Ovalau
where we visited before and where Neil also can’t wait to go and also because it is nice to check out somewhere we haven’t really visited before.
Once in Suva we shared a taxi to a hotel with Curly and Vo (some travellers we met also staying at Toni’s and on the same flight with us) which was a Best Western. To be honest it sucked as it was expensive, had a pool that was under maintenance thus empty, faulty air-con that we only realised too late and a fan that sounded like a helicopter landing, but as it was only one night it didn’t matter I suppose. Then down into the city for a couple of drinks followed by an Indian.
written by
chrischarly
on May 7, 2012
from
Suva
,
Fiji
from the travel blog:
Chris and Charly's Pacific Island Pit-Stop
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Just the 3 of us
Suva
,
Fiji
We moved hotels to the South Seas that was half the price of the Best
Chris
Western, if a bit basic, but still a really nice building
Traditional canoes to sail the Pacific
and the staff were super-friendly. We then went for a walk around Suva and I tried and failed to buy some new tops as all of mine are falling
Traffic
apart due to being stretched so much from hand washing. We had a very tasty lunch at the
Pavilion
by the sports ground, which was full of locals and not another tourist in sight serving local curries for cheap.
Chris and Neil
Then after lunch we had a good look around the Suva museum before walking into town again and finding some internet. Then, just like the old times, the 3 of us went to the cinema to watch ‘Pirates’ in 3D which was entertaining, before having a couple of drinks and grabbing a pizza before heading back.
written by
chrischarly
on May 8, 2012
from
Suva
,
Fiji
from the travel blog:
Chris and Charly's Pacific Island Pit-Stop
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Back to Bobo's!
Rukuruku
,
Fiji
Shops
We awoke reasonably early this morning so we could check out of our nice hotel and head downtown to do some internet work,
Local buses
booking flights etc. before getting tickets and heading back over to
Ovalau
.
Changing the tyre
We took the nice bus and
Ferry
as before and as we were going straight to Bobo’s, got off at the wharf rather than travelling to
Levuka
on the bus.
Check out their jack!
We were expecting Alvin to meet us, but when we walked off the
Ferry
all we could see was Bobo and his huge smile and waving arms. We exchanged hugs and boarded Alvin’s truck for the ride back to the farm.
Replacement tyre with a chunk out of the side
Neil was very happy with the ride as the views are amazing and he took several pics.
Our completely-bald flat tyre
We decided that we should take the rough track and
River
crossing to the farm, if only for Neil to experience arriving as we did on our first visit.
On the ferry to Ovalau
Luckily no-one fell over this time, although it did take Chris and I a lot longer than Bobo and Neil.
Road to Bobo's
When we arrived Karin and the dogs/cats were all waiting and we had some lovely refreshing mandarin juice.
Sunset
After a while of swapping stories of our travels we went up to the
House
,
On the way to Bobo's
to get settled in before our Kava welcoming ceremony and dinner. As ever Bobo was the perfect host and storyteller and Karin the amazing cook. Neil was very pleased with our choice, and we were pleased to be in our pacific “home”.
written by
chrischarly
on May 9, 2012
from
Rukuruku
,
Fiji
from the travel blog:
Chris and Charly's Pacific Island Pit-Stop
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Waterslides
Rukuruku
,
Fiji
Neil having some down time
Chris on our balcony
Dragon fly
Karin's lizard
We had a nice chill day at Bobo’s today. I wasn’t feeling too great today having come down with another cold and feeling dizzy, so decided to relax for the day before our hike to Levoni tomorrow.
The pigs kissing!
Chris and Bobo on the farm tour
Nice tree
The bridge to get to the pigs
Chris and Neil went on the farm tour again as Neil didn’t go before and Chris liked it so much.
Neil and Chris
Our place at Bobo's
Coco
Chris and coco
They then went for a small hike up to a waterslide and a few swims before they came and got me for one last swim in the
River
.
It was then time to just have a nice early night after a few hours chatting in the evening with Karin and Bobo to store up any extra energy for tomorrow as it will definitely be needed!
written by
chrischarly
on May 10, 2012
from
Rukuruku
,
Fiji
from the travel blog:
Chris and Charly's Pacific Island Pit-Stop
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Levoni Hike
Levoni
,
Fiji
Chris and Bobo climbing
After a stormy night we knew our trip to Levoni was going to be slippery but we hadn’t expected it to be quite as tough as it was.
Break time, thankfully
To set the scene, we were hiking from Bobo’s, on the coast, to the centre of the island before finally arriving in Levoni, a village which sits inside a crater of an old dormant volcano.
Neil and I
Bobo led the way and after making this trip several hundred times before, had no issue with the mud, that was until he stepped to the side of the track to help
Cooling down
Charly pass a slippery section and disappeared into the vegetation, only held by Charly until Neil could assist.
My nice ripped trousers :(
We went up first into the plantations and it was pretty slippery but doable, then we left the track and the rest was Bobo hacking through the forest on what he told us was his secret track.
Nice view
It did resemble a sort of track I suppose. We climbed, descended, slipped, fell over, got knackered, fell some more, crossed the river/s more times that I can remember,
Nice view
taking breaks in the cool water, and then 5 hours later we were there. Not bad for a 3-4 hour trek that Bobo used to be able to do in 1 hour, in his youth.
View down to Levoni crater
Charly and I were totally knackered, Neil not so, but he is a tad fitter, or at least disguising his tiredness very well.
Levoni village
We met Epi, the Levoni host for a fabulous and well needed lunch and to learn the amazing story of Levoni and how it fits in with Fiji. I won’t recall the whole story,
Neil looking good in his sulu!
but it was really interesting and if you want to know the full story you just need to come to Levoni and meet Epi. If it’s been raining take the road, not the hike across the mountain!
Little local house
Epi took us for a quick tour of the village, where there is a stone marker showing the absolute centre of Fiji. After this we took Alvin’s truck back to Bobo’s for some rest and relaxation and more of Karin’s lovely food – this time my favourite freshwater prawns that we saw swimming around in the streams on the walk today. Early night was very much welcome.
written by
chrischarly
on May 11, 2012
from
Levoni
,
Fiji
from the travel blog:
Chris and Charly's Pacific Island Pit-Stop
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Local buses and rugby games
Levuka
,
Fiji
Neil and his new mates
Chris, Bobo and I
Market stands
We awoke early today to get some brekkie before heading off with Bobo, to
Levuka
, to show Neil around and watch the local rugby.
A fishing boat
We took the local bus/truck which was packed! After 1 hour of bumpy roads, and with numb arses, we made it to
Levuka
.
Local market
We went down to the cessation stones, where Fiji was originally signed over to UK in 1874, and then back to Fiji in 1971.
Levuka town
We then went for a look around the museum and town, which was nice with a guide like Bobo telling us lots of information Chris and I missed on our first visit here. We went to have a look around the Royal Hotel, before we popped in to Mary’s to say hi again to Leila.
Me
The oldest hotel in the Pacific
Rugby Match
Fans celebrating
Commiserating their loss
Then we headed for some lunch and a beer before making our way to the rugby ground.
Eating at Bobo's
We caught the second half of a local game and then the full
Ovalau
vs.
Northland
that unfortunately
Ovalau
lost.
Bobo and kava
We went back on the truck, which was even more packed than before and Neil, Chris and Bobo had to stand, whilst I was kindly given a seat by a local guy which I was extremely grateful for as I was so sore from yesterday and I there was no way I could’ve reached the bars at the top of the truck to hold on to. In the evening Karin made us a lovely curry dinner and we had some Kava with Bobo for the last time as once again we have to leave tomorrow.
written by
chrischarly
on May 12, 2012
from
Levuka
,
Fiji
from the travel blog:
Chris and Charly's Pacific Island Pit-Stop
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To another remote island in Fiji
Lellevia
,
Fiji
The long walk down
We left Bobo’s once again, and we will really miss Bobo and Karin. They are great hosts and we really fell in love with the place.
Walking down to catch the boat
We walked down to the village with Bobo just as the boat from Lellevia was just coming in to meet us. On the way we caught a few squalls and it was like icy spikes hitting your face.
Leaving Bobo's...
When we arrived on Lellevia the sun was out and it looked really nice as there are no mountains on the
Island
so the rain doesn’t hang around for long.
Frozen coconuts
We knew they would be doing some construction, but they were offloading a large ship of materials, so it could be worse than expected.
Our bure
As soon as our bags were off the boat we had lovely coconuts that had been kept in the freezer so just like slush puppies before going to our room, which was ok, if a bit tired.
Nice view
That’s why they are building new ones I suppose. The conch horn sounded signalling lunch and we headed down for some
Chicken
Chris in our room
curry. After digesting we all went for a snorkel that was better than expected with a wide array of hard and soft corals and many fish.
Neil and his little scary-looking friend
It is protected here and it shows, it was some of the best snorkelling we had seen for a while. After snorkelling Chris and Neil enjoyed a couple of happy hour beers before showering and dinner. We chatted to some of the other guests while having a few more beers before retiring to our bure for a good night’s sleep.
written by
chrischarly
on May 13, 2012
from
Lellevia
,
Fiji
from the travel blog:
Chris and Charly's Pacific Island Pit-Stop
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Stupid friggin' chainsaws
Lellevia
,
Fiji
The stupid chainsaw
Before booking to stay here on Lellevia
Island
we had been warned that they were doing “a little bit of construction work”.
The beach
But nothing was mentioned about being awoken at 8am by a chainsaw being started right outside our room and continuing all day until after the sun had set. We were not happy. It was so loud there was just no escape from the noise as we were on such a small
Island
with at least 20 workers rushing to get some more bures up in time for the high season, next month.
Where Chris and I spent most of the day
Neil wasn’t feeling great today as I had kindly passed on my cold and stomach cramps over to him so he was especially irritated when all he wanted to do was rest and catch up on some sleep. Chris and I sat on the
The beach
beach for most of the morning as far away from the building work as we could get. Then, after lunch, Neil was back up and we went for a walk to the Cannibal Pol, which is still there from years ago when the locals would come over to
Nice beach
the
Island
to cook up
The cannibal pot!
some yummy humans for the chief. After having a quick look at the pot and not wanting to hang around for too long in case we fell in, Chris and I went for a snorkel while Neil relaxed and recovered on the beach. In the evening after our dinner we drank some Kava with the workers and watched the replay of the rugby sevens which were on last night, but the reason why we couldn’t watch them live was because they couldn’t pick up the signal on the
Island
, so a DVD recording was brought over instead. It was nice to have something to do in the evening and to hang out with the friendly workers and watch them so happily watch Fiji’s victory especially over England.
written by
chrischarly
on May 14, 2012
from
Lellevia
,
Fiji
from the travel blog:
Chris and Charly's Pacific Island Pit-Stop
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Onwards to Samoa!
Nananu-I-Ra
,
Fiji
The bar
After waking up and having breakfast we packed up and left Lellevia on a tiny little boat to the mainland.
Neil chillaxing
It was supposed to take just 40 minutes but instead took 1.5 hours, luckily Neil had his sun-cream close to hand or we would’ve all baked in the sun as the boat wasn’t undercover. The reason why it took so long was because the boat kept cutting out and they had to keep pulling it apart and repairing it.
Beautiful sea
But eventually we made it and caught a taxi to Suva to get on a very small and cramped bus to Nadi airport with a couple of hours to spare to take our flight to Samoa. The flight wasn’t long, under 2 hours and it was nowhere near full so we all got to spread out, but they sure like their air-con so it was freezing so I snuggled under
No smoking sign
the 3 blankets on the seats next to me. When we landed, the accommodation we booked, Livingston apartments was there waiting for us and drove us from the airport and into Apia driving the long way through the city taking in some night sights along the way. By the time we had unloaded our bags and gotten into bed it was gone 1am so we were all really tired so soon got into bed excited about being in a new country and going to explore tomorrow.
written by
chrischarly
on May 15, 2012
from
Nananu-I-Ra
,
Fiji
from the travel blog:
Chris and Charly's Pacific Island Pit-Stop
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A traditional fiafia show
Apia
,
Samoa
Chris enjoying a Vailima
After our late night last night we all had a bit of a lie-in this morning and once we had all arisen, ate some papaya for breakfast and did
Neil and I
some hand washing as all our clothes were filthy and no washing machine were available. So I washed, Chris rinsed and Neil rung out and hung up; a good conveyer belt system we thought!
Practicing for the boat race
Fiafia show
But it did take ages and by the time we had finished it was boiling hot outside as it was now midday. But we still had a nice walk around Apia which is in fact a really nice capitol city kept immaculately clean with nicely manicured gardens all along the road side. We stopped off at a posh Chinese restaurant which served tasty, yet expensive food served by some miserable staff, surprising for such a friendly country.
Fiafia show
Traditional ladies dance
After lunch we all wandered about a bit more and Neil and I brought a new top each in between going in and out of various hire car companies trying to get the best rate, car and price with the lowest insurance excess which we finally found when we walked into Avis. They were very efficient and said we could have the car straight away if we wanted so as it was already 4:30pm just managed to book some ferry tickets for the following day in time and thought we may just as well get straight out and enjoy the nice beaches on Savaii. So happy with our new car we drove back stopping for a quick drink along the way at the Yacht Club to watch some rowers practising for the 50 years independence in a couple of weeks’ time before going back to Livingstone Apartments for a quick change and out to Aggie Grey’s for dinner, in a very old hotel which served a delicious buffet dinner accompanied by a fiafia show, which is a traditional Samoan dancing and fire show, expensive but worth it.
Firedance
Firedance
Our drinks and food
Enjoying a cocktail
We all really enjoyed ourselves, ate too much food and drank a couple too many cocktails.
written by
chrischarly
on May 16, 2012
from
Apia
,
Samoa
from the travel blog:
Chris and Charly's Pacific Island Pit-Stop
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