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Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia

a travel blog by chrischarly


This passage will be our longest one and it will be during our time in SE Asia visiting Malaysia, The Philippines, Brunei, Indonesia, Thailand, Laos and Cambodia, proabaly in this order before flying to Australia towards the end of September. Unfortunately we've run out of time to go to Burma and Vietnam... maybe next time!
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A shed load of photos of orang-utans

Sepilok, Malaysia


Today we woke up after yet again an amazing sleep in a dorm, had breakfast and met Neil and Reggie, who slept in a room instead of choosing the dorm option due to Chris’ snoring! We then got into a minibus to go to the Orang-utan Rehabilitation Centre. There are 2 feeding times there, one at 10am and one at 3pm. We decided to go to both to make the most out of our ticket and it was awesome!

Basically, the centre is for rescued orang-utans either saved from being captured and then kept as pets or orphans alone in the jungle, and their aim is to eventually release them back into the wild when they are fit enough and able to do so, taking around 10 years to accomplish this.

The orang-utans themselves are 96.4% human, according to the facts and they are just fascinating to watch.

We actually got really close to them at feeding times, but the wild masque monkeys scared them away after about 10 minutes, which was irritating.

You wouldn’t think they would be scared of them considering they are 3 times the size of the monkeys! At 4pm, we took a transfer back and relaxed in the bar for Reggie and Neil’s last night with us…

permalink written by  chrischarly on May 13, 2011 from Sepilok, Malaysia
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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Bye Neil and Reggie, and Hello Justine!

Sepilok, Malaysia


We waved a sad goodbye to Neil and Reggie today when they got picked up outside our lodge to be taken back to Kota Kinabalu before flying back to KL for their last night. It sucked to see them go especially after spending time with them for the past 3 weeks but I’m sure it won’t be too long until we see them again, possibly in New Zealand or South America, or more likely, both. So, all of a sudden, it was quiet again, and the 2 of us had to make conversation with each other again. Luckily, Justine came and rescued us a few hours later by rocking up in her 4x4, tiny hire car and we spent the day and night chilling out with many other backpackers drinking gin and beer.

permalink written by  chrischarly on May 14, 2011 from Sepilok, Malaysia
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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A little off-roading

Tawau, Malaysia


We checked out this morning heading to Tawau over some pretty dodgy roads in the 4x4 driving slowly and enjoying the scenery of Borneo, as it really is beautiful out here.

Once in Tawau, we found a really nice hotel to stay in for the night being the cheapest as well as the best so we settled in and chilled out for a while before taking a wander about enjoying being the only tourists around and receiving special treatment from the locals.


permalink written by  chrischarly on May 15, 2011 from Tawau, Malaysia
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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In the middle of nowhere

Keningau, Malaysia


We got up early today leaving Tawau heading towards Maliau Basin (Sabah’s lost world) Conservation Area, trying our luck getting in without a prior reservation. It is basically a circular basin with pristine forest inside, has only been open to the public since 1981, and receives very few tourists. It was really pricy but the chance to stay in the middle of a rainforest in the middle of nowhere and nobody else around us was too good an opportunity to miss, so we decided to go for it!

In order to get inside, someone had to pick us up, as our little 4-wheel drive wouldn’t make it, so we sat and waited… and waited… Eventually Chris went to go and find what was going on and we discovered that the owner of the place had left with the car keys to Kota Kinabalu, which is about 300km away from here! This was the only vehicle insured to take tourists so we had no choice but to continue on our adventure.

We then made our way to Sapulut to try our luck with somewhere to stay. Once there we realised that we were once again in the middle of nowhere and stopped at a random shop to grab a drink, which was dirt-cheap and sat surrounded by indigenous locals trying to work out our next plan. A trucker came along after a while who luckily spoke a bit of English and acted as translator for us so we could ask where would be best to stay. He told us there was a missionary just down the road and we could stay in the Catholic Church, but apart from that there was nowhere except to stay with the shop owner and we could negotiate staying at her house. But as she didn't speak any English and quite possibly lived in a tiny shack with all her family and not wanting to offend anyone if we turned up there and it was horrible, we made a quick getaway.

Then we headed towards Keningau, which was the closest city in search again of finding somewhere to stay. So after about 11 hours of driving on some very dodgy rounds, written in the Lonely Planet as virtually ‘impossible to travel to on your own’ and only if you were ‘a proficient 4 wheel driver’ you could give it a go, we made it and found a great place to stay for really cheap.

We then wandered around once again no tourists whatsoever amazed at how happy everyone was to see us in their city, pointing, giggling, and wanting to be our friends.

permalink written by  chrischarly on May 16, 2011 from Keningau, Malaysia
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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Satu Kopi Susu!!

Telupid, Malaysia


This morning we woke up, found a cute local roti restaurant sitting with locals who spoke not a word of English so we got the chance to practice speaking the local language (Satu Kopi Susu= 1 coffee with milk) as well as just pointing and luckily, we got what we wanted! The locals all loved us and the pretty Muslim girls all wanted to have their photos taken with us especially enjoying the novelty of being with a pink and yellow haired Justine!

We then checked out of our hostel and started our next adventure going around in circles due to getting seriously lost before doing some mega off roading and driving through a fast-flowing river, all of us being quite surprised that us as well as our car made it.

We then made our way to Sabah Tea Gardens in Ranau to work out where we could stay the night from talking to the locals, before finally finding somewhere to sleep in Telupid, with dubious stains on the bed and cockroaches running about. Nice.



permalink written by  chrischarly on May 17, 2011 from Telupid, Malaysia
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Finding plenty of untouched places

Pitas, Malaysia


We found an awesome roti restaurant again this morning, but didn’t really get anything we ordered but it still tasted good! Once again, as we were in a really small local town not even mentioned in the Lonely Planet so virtually non-existent in the eyes of a tourist, we got a load of attention from the locals before once again setting off for our next adventure.

We drove on a windy road up North towards Pitas and then got lost, yes, again as we planned to do some 4-wheel driving and managed to find some pretty exciting roads before finally finding the right way and headed in search for a beach.

We did manage to find it after asking for many directions and ended up driving through a palm Plantation to get there!

It really was simply beautiful as well as being untouched.

So much so that there was nowhere even remotely close to staying so we relaxed and splashed our feet for a while before driving almost to the tip of Borneo to finally find somewhere to crash for the night in Kudat driving through massive thunder storms with practically no visibility of the road ahead. Scary!!

permalink written by  chrischarly on May 18, 2011 from Pitas, Malaysia
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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Staying with a lovely Muslim family

Tuaran, Malaysia


We woke up early this morning and had a curry breakfast before heading to Tuaran to stay with a Muslim family Justine has stayed with before. Of course, along the way we got lost once again but arrived not long after 2pm.

Although it was a guestHouse, it felt a lot more like staying with the family at their own House as we were made to feel so welcome.

In the evening, we cooked at made dinner for them, and it was amazing to have mashed potato again, and chatted the night away.




permalink written by  chrischarly on May 19, 2011 from Tuaran, Malaysia
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Bye Justine!!

Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia



Today was Justine’s last day and the kind lady (I’ve forgotten her name) made up Nasi Goreng Kampong (fried rice with salted fish) for breakfast before we drove Justine to the airport and dropped the hire car back off. It was sad to see her go as well, but we made plans to spend Christmas with her in NZ so it won’t be long. We then checked back in to the place we stayed previously in Kota Kinabalu and prepared ourselves for leaving Sabah and heading to Brunei tomorrow!


permalink written by  chrischarly on May 20, 2011 from Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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2 ferrys and a bus to Brunei

Kampung Sagoking, Malaysia


We woke up far too early this morning to ensure we got first dibs in the showers and toilets as there’s only 2 per floor so we wouldn’t have to queue. We then skipped a vile breakfast before taking a taxi to the Ferry terminal and taking the Ferry to Labuan where we had to wait a couple of hours for the next one.

Once in Brunei, we took a bus into town and then found accommodation relatively easily and then decided to go for a wander in the smallest capitol city in Asia, and I wouldn’t be surprised if it was the smallest in the world!

It takes pretty much no time at all to have a walk around and it’s pretty expensive here, so don’t think we will be spending loads of time here. But nevertheless it’s still a nice place to go and visit.



permalink written by  chrischarly on May 21, 2011 from Kampung Sagoking, Malaysia
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Walking around BSB

Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei


Today we had a bit of a lie-in and then met our friend Laura to go for a walk around Bandar Seri Begawan.

It was a really hot day and even more humid but still a great day. We took a walk around the water village which the locals nickname it as ‘South East Asia’s Venice’ and it is apparently the largest water village in the world. It was huge and has been there for over 600 years so was great to get the chance to walk around there. We then went to the Sultan’s Museum to have a look around, this was mainly due to it being fully air-conditioned so we could dry off before rushing back to a café as it started to rain.

Early evening we decided to go on a boat trip around the river managing to haggle the trip down to 15 ringgit (£3) and saw probiscus monkeys, fireflies, the Sultan’s Palace and went through the water village again. Photos didn’t however turn out great as it was dusk but well worth the trip.

When we got off the boat though, the skipper tried to rip us off by saying that it was 15 ringgit per hour and as we were gone two, it was double the price and certainly NOT what we agreed, so basically just laughed at him and walked off, which was a shame as we thought he was lovely.


permalink written by  chrischarly on May 22, 2011 from Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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