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Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia

a travel blog by chrischarly


This passage will be our longest one and it will be during our time in SE Asia visiting Malaysia, The Philippines, Brunei, Indonesia, Thailand, Laos and Cambodia, proabaly in this order before flying to Australia towards the end of September. Unfortunately we've run out of time to go to Burma and Vietnam... maybe next time!
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Helpful local information

Riung, Indonesia


Well we were really achy this morning. It was such a struggle to get up and out of bed, but we had no choice as we still had to find out times for the bus to Riung as we couldn’t face getting up for the 6am bus. The locals all told us different times:-
‘There is only 1 bus and it is at 6am’
‘Only 1 bus at 7am’
‘No buses in the afternoon’
‘Yes there are buses in the afternoon’
‘There are many buses’
‘The only bus in the afternoon is at 12pm’
‘The only bus in the afternoon is at 1pm’
And finally, ‘the only bus is at 2pm’.
So with all of this reliable information, we decided to just get there and see what happens. We arrived at 12pm and we were lucky as just at that time one bemo arrived! I could see why the locals get confused as we had to wait over an hour for it to leave, and yes there was only one bus in the afternoon so we just had to wait until it decided to leave! We also were over-charged by the bus, and we knew the real price but arguing proved pointless as they knew they had won as it was the only way to leave Ende so we were so annoyed! It was such a bumpy and uncomfortable journey but it was nice travelling and chatting to the locals along the way. When we were half way we stopped for what we thought would be a quick break, but after waiting 1 ½ hours for the bemo driver to appear Chris and Rod went to find him discovering him sitting in a restaurant drinking Bintang! He was planning to stay there another hour, but the boys compromised with him, saying they would join him for a quick beer as long as they left straight afterwards, and luckily he agreed as we were sooooo bored!

When we arrived we found a nice place to stay infested with millipedes and woodworms, but apart from that, it was perfect, with clean crisp white sheets, something we haven’t seen in a long time!



permalink written by  chrischarly on June 12, 2011 from Riung, Indonesia
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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Impossible Riung...

Riung, Indonesia


It felt like today we were just banging our heads up against a wall. Trying to book or get anything sorted here in Riung feels like it’s impossible! We wanted to go on a snorkelling trip for tomorrow but it was so difficult to organise! We met 4 other travellers yesterday who also wanted to go snorkelling so we went to the market in the morning before meeting up with them to find a trip. After a lot of haggling we got what we thought to be a fair price, but with everything else an extra price, it still wasn’t a bargain. We then had to go and find snorkelling equipment to take with us and they only had 3 masks and snorkels, that weren’t great, no fins and considering there were 8 of us, it wasn’t enough. After about 2 hours we finally got it all booked and sorted, but it wasn’t easy as we thought it would take 10 minutes, tops. We then got ready and tried to find transport to the beach, which is 14km away, this again wasn’t easy. There were no bemos around as the market had closed, and the only way to get there was to take an ojek (motorbike). You could either hire one or rent your own, but watching the way they drive with no helmets and dodgy bikes we didn’t want to get on the back with someone else driving, and neither Chris nor I could drive a geared bike, we were stuck again for 2 hours, trying to work something out. Isa and Rod hired their own as they often ride bikes, so we told them to go ahead without us whilst we tried to work something out. Eventually we managed to find a car to take us, and we haggled the price down from £22 to £3.50 after ages of negotiation yet again.

So finally, about 5 hours later than planned we made it to the beach, which was amazing!

It wasn’t white sand and perfect turquoise water but still great.

We found some locals who cut us down some coconuts to eat and drink and we shared biscuits with the local children whilst Chris played football on the sand/mud with some older kids and we played in the sea.

Lovely day in the end...


permalink written by  chrischarly on June 13, 2011 from Riung, Indonesia
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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Snorkelling in Riung...

Riung, Indonesia


We got up at 7am to have breakfast, before walking to the harbour to go on our snorkelling trip, stopping off at 3 places along the way to pick up snorkelling gear that we had reserved with different people.

Unfortunately, the other 4 travellers we were going with took all the best gear from the town, so we were left with the not-so-great equipment.

Our first stop on the trip was to see hundreds of flying foxes, flying from tree to tree which was an amazing sight before going to our next stop to do some snorkelling in the middle of the Ocean. It was a really windy day though so it was really wavy, and as there were no fins small enough to fit me it was so difficult to swim against the current. My mask and snorkel also both leaked so I soon gave up and slowly made my way back to the boat highly disappointed to wait for everyone to come back. The next stop on the trip was a lot better though.

We stopped at a small island and went snorkelling from the beach, which was amazing, and the coral was beautiful so we had a great time there and Rod was kind enough to lend me his mask and snorkel so I could appreciate it as well.

We stayed there for a few hours having a tasty fish BBQ on the beach before going back to Rihon late in the afternoon.



permalink written by  chrischarly on June 14, 2011 from Riung, Indonesia
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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Cultural villages...

Bajawa, Indonesia


Today we got up and caught the bus at 6:30am to go from Rihon to Bajawa. The journey was only 4 hours long but it is supposed to be the worst road to travel on in Flores so wasn’t great but luckily, it wasn’t that long! We arrived in Bajawa at about 11am, found accommodation, and then hired Ojeks (motorbikes) to go to 2 cultural villages just outside the town after Rod taught Chris how to ride one.

I am in fact so proud of ourselves for finally plucking up the courage to do it! Rod and I went on one, and Isa and Chris went on another and neither of us fell off! The cultural villages were nice to walk around, but it was quite set up and the first on we went to, all the young children kept shouting, ‘GIVE US MONEY!!!’

This was really irritating and upset us quite a bit, you had to give a donation to enter which we didn’t mind so much as long as it went to the community, but we also had to pay the locals to take their photos and with children asking us for extra annoyed us and didn’t make it feel so natural. So, we left and found another village that wasn’t in the Guidebook hoping that this one would be better. We did have a far better time here and we met with one of the villagers who had learnt English from speaking with tourists so she was great to speak to so we could learn about the culture and the history from her. She also gave us coffee, roasted sweet corn and some local spirit to try, which was kind.

She also didn’t ask for any money, although we did offer, so we instead brought a couple of souvenirs from her. On the way out, the chief’s wife asked us to sign the guest book and to give a donation, which was fine, but you had to write down the amount you were going to give and hand it to her personally instead of putting it into a box, like the one before. So we all put an amount together and gave it to her, and then she just said, ‘More’. We were so disappointed and we were then forced to give her double and as it was a donation and not an entrance fee, it made us realise just how places like this have been destroyed by tourism, so we left there quite disheartened and decided to just go back and leave the rest of the villages.



permalink written by  chrischarly on June 15, 2011 from Bajawa, Indonesia
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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Horrible bus journey... but with arrack

Labuan Bajo, Indonesia


This morning we woke up at 5:40am and caught the bus we had booked to go to Labuan Bajo. Things didn’t start off great as the bus was over ½ an hour late, which annoyed us as we had gotten up so early! Once on the bus, 5km down the road the bus parked up and we sat and waited for almost 2 hours before the driver finally decided to leave! He said to us, that he would not go until the bus was completely full!We were so angry as we knew it would take 10 hours anyway! Eventually though we all persuaded him to go and it really was the bus journey from hell! (Well for me anyway as the boys really enjoyed themselves though as they started drinking arrack, which is a local spirit at 9am with the bus conductor!) But I have the stinkiest of colds and was feeling really sick, so just after half way I ran off the bus to throw up in small forest. Yuck. The journey was so bumpy and up and down mountains and on a small bus seriously uncomfortable! We finally arrived at Labuan Bajo at around 7pm to then start to look for accommodation and there were loads to choose from thankfully. But here is nowhere like the rest of Flores as it is so touristy and many people hassle you to book tours with them and from around 30 companies to choose from we didn’t know where to start so decided to leave it until morning and finally got left alone.




permalink written by  chrischarly on June 16, 2011 from Labuan Bajo, Indonesia
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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Excited about going to see Komodos tomorrow!

Labuan Bajo, Indonesia


Today we spent a few hours walking around Labuan Bajo finding the best company to book our Komodo trip with.

We eventually found a nice woman to book through who was flexible so we managed to make our own tour hopefully avoiding many of the other tourists who will be going to Komodo and Rinca Island as well… can’t wait!

permalink written by  chrischarly on June 17, 2011 from Labuan Bajo, Indonesia
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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KOMODO DRAGONS!!

Rinca, Indonesia


Today we went and met the captain of our boat at 5:45am to go on our boat trip for 2 days. We were so excited about seeing the Komodo dragons we couldn’t wait! Our first stop was to Rinca Island, which is the first of 2 islands to see the dragons.

We were the first ones to arrive as we left 2 hours earlier than the other tourists and on Rinca, we had the best chance to see the dragons but as they are wild animals it wasn’t guaranteed so we had our fingers crossed.


As soon as we got off the boat and walked to pay for a guide, there was one walking towards the ranger’s station and 5 sitting outside the kitchen where the rangers were cooking their food, as they could smell it! So we had already seen 6 before we even started the trek!

However, we still wanted to see some out in the wild so we went on a 2-hour trek around the island and there we saw one baby one and a large female. When we got back to get on the boat, there were loads of other tourists getting off so we had timed it just right!

We then made our way to Komodo Island, which took a few hours on the boat, also when we arrived there the everyone else had already left so again we had the place to ourselves!

When we got off the boat, there was one Komodo dragon walking down the jetty from the boat so again we were so lucky as we had spoken to many travellers before going on this trip and they didn’t see any at all on Komodo Island!

We also went on a trek there, but this time just for one hour, as we wanted to spend some time snorkelling in the evening.

We didn’t see any on the trek, but again when we were about to leave we walked past the ranger’s station where they were cooking food and there were 3 dragons sitting outside the kitchen.

This did however make us wonder if the rangers feed them, which they swore that they didn’t, but then it doesn’t make a lot of sense as to why the dragons would be sitting outside? So maybe they are not completely wild after all.

On both of the islands, though we did see wild deer, pigs and buffalo, which is the dragon’s diet, but I suppose we will never know for sure whether they are fed or not.

After Komodo Island, we made our way to Red/Pink beach to do some snorkelling, which was in fact incredible! We were lucky enough to swim with 2 turtles as well as see some amazing coral and other pretty fish.

This is where we stayed over the night, which was perfect as no other boats slept here, but instead off another island to watch some flying foxes, but we saw them a few days before in Riung, so we chose to sleep here so it felt as we had the whole place to ourselves! In the evening just after eating some delicious barbequed fish we watched the moon come up slowly over the sea which was a lovely orangey red colour, the end to a perfect day before our captain, Matt brought us some mattresses down so we could sleep on the deck underneath the stars.


permalink written by  chrischarly on June 18, 2011 from Rinca, Indonesia
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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The best snorkelling in the world!!!!!!!!!!

Komodo, Indonesia


We woke up this morning excited about a whole day’s snorkelling ahead of us. At 6am, we had breakfast before heading to Manta Point, which is the place where we would have the best chance to see Manta Rays.

We all had our fingers crossed, as there was still no guarantee at all that we would see them. When we arrived at Manta Point, the current was really strong, so Matt dropped us off, and we had to follow the current back to the boat. We were so glad he dropped us off as it was impossible to swim anywhere but where the current took us, we travelled about 1km every 10 minutes so that’s how fast it was.


After about 20 minutes in the water, right at the bottom we saw a huge manta ray! We were so excited! However, it was about 15 metres deep so too far for us to dive down and see with the current flowing but still amazing! Then, after we saw this one, there was 7 more just lying on the bottom all different sizes, we were all so happy! When we climbed back into the boat, we told Matt that we saw them, but unfortunately, they were all just still and not swimming. So, he told us that we would wait an hour until slack tide when they will all be moving and we would go back in again, so we went to another point not too far away where we snorkelled for ½ hour before going back and on-route we saw one even jump out of the water!

He was right about waiting, and although we only saw 2 this time, they were huge and one swam right up close to us before it flipped over and swam away! Amazing!

Then on the way back to the boat we saw a huge turtle swim right past us, swimming so fast, we didn’t think it could be possible, so it was a fantastic spot and we were all so delighted.

When we got back, Matt then took us to another spot, which is supposed to be the best snorkelling point in the region and to be honest it was spectacular.

It is just a huge rock and it is covered in coral surrounded by loads of big and small fish, and definitely the most beautiful spot we have ever snorkelled. So we spent about an hour swimming around and a 1 ½-meter white tipped reef shark swam just underneath me!

We then went to 2 more spots before going back, but we had definitely been spoilt, as they couldn’t compare to what we had seen previously today, turtles, manta rays, and sharks in one day! We were so happy and glad we picked carefully before writing and picking our tour. Then when we got back to Labuan Bajo we booked our bus and ferry tickets for tomorrow, sad that our 2-day trip was already over as it had gone by so fast!

permalink written by  chrischarly on June 19, 2011 from Komodo, Indonesia
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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A very long journey...

Sape, Indonesia


We woke up early yet again, seems to be a habit with our Flores adventures, to head to the ferry for our epic journey.

We boarded our luxury liner fully decked out with hard metal chairs and flat screen TVs on which were shown whatever the captain felt like watching. The journey of 9 hours was fairly uneventful although I did get to spend a few hours with Rod getting many hints and tips on our further destinations.

On arriving in Sape, Sumbawa, we waited for the crowds to disembark and then made our way off in search for our bus. This was a mistake. See our nice 40 seater bus, ok acceptable bus, was not here, but 2 hours away and awaiting us was a 25 seater minibus. Most people buy this trip as a package and therefore most of the 40 passengers were here for the same minibus! I peeled away the metal lid and peeked inside only to find as expected about 35 people crammed inside. In previous similar situations like this there would have been some shuffling and squeezing and we would have got in, but this was beyond full. We asked our driver if there was a second bus and he chuckled and pointed to the roof. Hmmm, options here, get on the roof, or miss our bus……

We climbed the ladder and the four of us setup camp sitting on our bags on top. It all started off fine, we had great views and the locals thought it highly amusing requiring us all to wave continuously like the queen on a tour.

We weaved round the mountains and all was well before we got stuck behind a banana truck on a dusty section, we got clouded in dust and couldn’t breathe.

After passing said truck we went through some villages that had some lovely trees lining the streets, only problem was that the low hanging branches had never come across big European travellers on the roof and we had to continually shout “Canard” and dive for the surface. We made it through, with only a few scratches and a nice fake tan from the dust.

We waited at the bus station for 2 hours before getting underway for our night bus adventure……..To be continued.


permalink written by  chrischarly on June 20, 2011 from Sape, Indonesia
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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Our epic journey cont...

Lombok, Indonesia


Lucky as we are, Charly and I ended up with back seats on the bus, 3 seats wedged in where there should be 2 and right next to the toilet. Isa was nice enough to donate me a sleeping tablet, Charly, well she can sleep anywhere, this, was going to be easy.
The locals on the bus all must have been saving up for the trip, as they ALL decided to go to the toilet just after departure. The problem was my big legs were in front of the door, so everytime someone wanted to get in, or out, I had to move. I was not happy! Anyway, I soon settled into a slumber, the pill working its magic before being awoken by boxes of crisps, drinks etc, being shoved in our face and shouts of “Buy Mister”. I politely (well maybe not) declined, ushered them out of the back door and closed it in their faces. A few minutes later, the door opened again and I was about to kick off when I saw a scooter being lifted in. They kindly wedged it in front of us and tied it around some seats and the door handle, nice fellas.
We started underway and I started to dose off as the scooter started to roll back and forth, trapping Charly’s legs and banging about. I considered this for a moment, knowing that sleep was impossible until this problem was solved. Option 1 – I quietly untie it, open the back door and on a sharp bend re-inact a scene from the Italian Job; or, Option 2 – secure it better, thus ensuring it didn’t crush us and avoiding arrest. I took the latter and using my noggin, something the previous fellas had not done, decided to tie the brakes on. It worked a treat and sleep was back on the agenda. Shortly after we stopped for dinner, or was it breakfast – 3am?!
After floating into the reststop, eating and making it back to our cosy back seats we finally slept until reaching the ferry at Poto Tano.

A short trip of 1.5 hours entertained by some locals singing 1 verse badly then coming around with their hats, they really need to think about their audience more. I woke Rod up as we approached Lombok, to show him sunrise and the Rinjani mountain, that he and Isa were planning to climb. Good luck guys.

After hugs etc, we boarded the bus again and after 30 mins the guys jumped off to make their way up to Base Camp. They were great travelling friends who pushed us hard and we had some amazing times. Hopefully see you in Oz!

We continued across Lombok to Lembar for our final ferry journey to Padang Bai, Bali. No seats on the ferry meant we sat on hard metal deck for the last 4 hours of our epic 36 hour jouney. All in all not that bad really!!


permalink written by  chrischarly on June 21, 2011 from Lombok, Indonesia
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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