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Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia

a travel blog by chrischarly


This passage will be our longest one and it will be during our time in SE Asia visiting Malaysia, The Philippines, Brunei, Indonesia, Thailand, Laos and Cambodia, proabaly in this order before flying to Australia towards the end of September. Unfortunately we've run out of time to go to Burma and Vietnam... maybe next time!
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Heading towards The Plain of Jars...

Phonsavan, Laos


After finally arriving at the correct bus station, which should’ve taken 5 minutes, but instead took 30 as the driver of our tuk tuk pretended he understood what we were saying, so after another huge tour of Luang Prabang we just managed to jump on the bus to Phonsavan as it was leaving, luckily! The drive wasn’t too long, only 9 hours, and considering we only broke down once due to a flat tire, we considered it a good journey, well for Laos transport anyway. Finding a guesthouse was far too easy as well, as we stayed in the first place we checked out, as it was clean(ish) and cheap(ish), but more accurately, it was pouring down with rain so couldn’t be bothered to look anymore! In the evening we simply relaxed, chatted to a few tourists who also decided to come here, which we were surprised that so many (8 people) had as it is Miles and Miles away from anywhere and a mission to get to and leave from! This was one of the reasons as to why we came here as no one we have met so far has managed to make it this far out, and as I had read up quite a bit on The Plain of Jars, which is the main attraction here, I was desperate to come!

permalink written by  chrischarly on August 2, 2011 from Phonsavan, Laos
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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The Plain of Jars

Phonsavan, Laos


Early-ish start for us this morning trying to haggle down a tour as much as possible, but as usual, we didn’t have much luck and the cheapest we could find was about £30 including everything. Too much for stingy backpackers on a budget! So we took a motorbike instead although the weather was not on our side and instead bucketing it down, so armed with a stolen umbrella from the guesthouse and a poncho kindly given to us from Gill our friend we hung out with a few days before, we headed on our way.

Luckily, the rain did ease up a little by the time we made it to Site 1 of The Plain of Jars so we could walk over half way round before it started again. It was in fact a really nice and peaceful place with great views and the jars themselves are very bizarre.

No one really knows why they are there, many suggest they were for keeping ‘Lao Lao’ in, which is a local whisky, but to me it just reminds me of a huge gravesite and when reading up a little more on them when we came back, there are many theories that agree.

They are estimated to be about 2000-2500 years so no one really has a clue. Nevertheless, it is pretty impressive just to walk around and see them, and even more impressive to see that so many of them survived when Laos was bombed severely in that area.

You cannot even walk everywhere in the site as some of the areas haven’t been cleared and checked for old bombs, but we stayed between the white markers (safe areas), so we were ok. We spent about an hour walking around but made a run for the shelter when the rain got too much where we waited for another hour for it to die down a bit before we went on our way to Hmong village (Bomb village) about 40km away.

This village is famous because the villagers there made the most out of the old American bombs and used the remains to help build their houses!

It was quite clever and very resourceful we thought! It was a really cute village, and we think it they don’t see many tourists there as it had such a nice local feel to it, really basic and yet everyone seemed so happy and smiley although they didn’t seem to speak any English or even Laos, but seemed to have their own local dialect.

After the village, we decided we had had enough of riding around and being wet so we took the bike back having ridden over 80km today.

In the evening we went to the local MAG (Mines Advisory Group) office who show videos about the bomb clearance, it was very sad to see the effect the bombs have on the local Laos people and they weren’t even involved in the war?!



permalink written by  chrischarly on August 3, 2011 from Phonsavan, Laos
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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Locals munching on Live Stuff...

Vang Vieng, Laos


We took a very long bus journey to Vientiane, arriving at 10.30pm. Along the way, we broke down with a flat tyre and while they were changing it, Charly wandered off to find a suitable loo spot. A minute later she shouted me to come as she had found them selling weird live larvae, we only assume to eat. There was a lot of trade and they were soon nearly sold out. Sure, it’s delicious!

When we finally arrived all the guesthouses we checked were either too expensive or full, in the end we found an ok room, with no windows and walls made of cardboard, plus it was boiling! All this for 60,000Kip, what not a bargain! Hey-ho, we can’t always be lucky…


permalink written by  chrischarly on August 4, 2011 from Vang Vieng, Laos
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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Walk around Vientiane

Vientiane, Laos


After a very tasty lunch of Noodle soup with Crispy Pork, we went out to explore Vientiane and walked to the Laos version of the Arc de Triomphe. It was ok but nothing special, we then headed back to the Mekong to take in sunset in a rooftop bar.

We enjoyed a couple of beers and then headed to a bar across the road for us. (Un)Fortunately, it was happy hour and cocktails were half price. We had one from the menu and then I asked the barman to make a Lao Lao Mojito. They were very scrummy and very strong! We had 5 between us, were fairly drunk and the bill was £2, bargain! We then headed to another Indian, had a beer, and then a feast before heading back to pass out in the room.


permalink written by  chrischarly on August 5, 2011 from Vientiane, Laos
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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Hung-over and travelling...

Ban Paksan, Laos


Today we awoke with hangovers after our unplanned drinkypoo’s the night before. Originally, we had planned to head to Kong Lo caves but when we emailed a guesthouse, they told us that due to flooding The Caves were closed. So instead, we left Vientiane to head to Tha Khek. As usual with Laos, the journey was eventful with a bus as old as the arc and a crazy driver. We had fun just watching the world go by and got chatting to two Germans, Henri, and Anya. The bus surprisingly didn't break down, and we have no ide how, but our tuk tuk did instead... We arrived in Tha Khek and went to the Lonely Planet’s “Our Pick”. It was pretty poor for the price and once again the Lonely Planet let us down. In the evening, we played Yatzee with a French couple and had a boring meal. Think we will leave tomorrow…

permalink written by  chrischarly on August 6, 2011 from Ban Paksan, Laos
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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From one over-priced place to another...

Ban Tha Khek, Laos


We left our rip-off accommodation in Tha Khek and took a tuk tuk to the bus station preparing to head to Savannakhet. But when we got to the bus station, we changed our mind, as there really wasn’t much point in going there apart from breaking up another long bus journey, so we took the hit and instead went straight to Pakse about 7 hours away. The bus though was a complete laugh. It must’ve been older than me! Not to mention uber smelly and very fragile. About 30 minutes into our journey, the seat next to us collapsed off the rail and landed with a loud thud, so the passengers sitting on it were sitting lopsidedly the whole way. We then checked our own seats as well as the others on the bus and they all looked in the same state, and sure enough, ours collapsed before the journey was over. But the driver was a speed freak so at least our misery didn’t last forever. When we arrived in Pakse, we searched in vain for cheap accommodation for well over an hour and once again ended up with rubbish, over-priced find, as all the cheap ones were full already. So another bus journey it is again tomorrow until we find somewhere worth staying and cheaper than £7!...


permalink written by  chrischarly on August 7, 2011 from Ban Tha Khek, Laos
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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Violent waterfall

Pakse, Laos


After a not-so-early start, as neither our friends nor us could be bothered to get the first bus, we took the second at 11am to Tad Lo. The journey was 90km and should’ve taken a maximum of 2 hours, but due to our driver mistaking himself for a snail, stopping everywhere, and reversing often, it took considerably longer. However, the bus itself was ok, although packed with locals, rice and other junk; at least we had a seat that was relatively comfortable. Upon arriving in Tad Lo we had the usual tuk tuk negotiation and decided amongst ourselves that the correct fare should be no more than 5000kip; certain he would eventually agree to our price all 4 of us stood our ground until he surprised us all by driving away! Well, we never thought that would happen! Gutted, and as he was the only tuk tuk driver around we shamefacedly began to walk the 1.8km into town due to a 20p extra in fare we didn’t want to part with. After walking about ½ a km the tuk tuk driver reappeared and we finally got a ride for 5000kip. Then we meandered around town to find somewhere cheap to stay and found somewhere beyond basic but with great views of a very violent Waterfall.

permalink written by  chrischarly on August 8, 2011 from Pakse, Laos
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An amazing find...

Tad Lo, Laos


After a rough nights sleep in our £2 bungalow, we decided to move to another place we had seen and whilst away from the River was really nice and chilled overlooking rice paddys.

Later in the day Henry and Anya decided to move too, and took a really funky bamboo hut were each visitor leaves something behind. It was very cool and original with an eclectic mix of travellers' unwanted stuff. We checked into the most expensive room at about £4, but it was huge with our own bathroom and large Terrace.

We chilled the rainy afternoon away and then helped make a nice Laos dinner of Pumpkin Soup, Laap, Laos salad and Sticky rice. We all sat down and enjoyed it with the family.



permalink written by  chrischarly on August 9, 2011 from Tad Lo, Laos
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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A small walk around Tad Lo

Tad Lo, Laos


We awoke to heavy rain so decided to stay in bed, might have had something to do with the beer the night before too! We got up about lunchtime and headed out for a walk to the other side of the River. We found a nice, if overpriced, restaurant right next to the falls. We then crossed back and walked up to a resort that has elephants and where you could see the upper Waterfall, the actual Tad Lo Waterfall. After this we wandered back to the guesthouse and planned a tasty western dinner of pasta, fried Chicken, salads and garlic bread. Another guest, Eleana from Scicily, and I prepared most of it and more people kept getting added to the party. In the end we had to cook for 16. Everyone seemed to enjoy it and it was nice to have some Western food. After dinner a group of us retired to the bamboo hut balcony for more beer, and Lao-Lao. We ended up telling stories, playing games and listening to tunes until about 3am.


permalink written by  chrischarly on August 10, 2011 from Tad Lo, Laos
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Chris going bald...

Tad Lo, Laos


We did nothing, so nothing to write about. We truly are becoming a true Laos citizen!.. Oh... Apart from Chris finally getting himself a haircut!



permalink written by  chrischarly on August 11, 2011 from Tad Lo, Laos
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Passage through SE Asia
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