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The Great American Road Trip

a travel blog by JRadhirsch


I'm embarking on the Great American Road Trip. I have 3 weeks to get to Washington DC to pick up Justine from the Airport and we have 2 weeks to get back to California. I'm keeping my schedule and itinerary loose, but check back here to see where I've been and where I think I may be going.
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Day's 5 and 6- Yellowstone

West Yellowstone, United States


Yellowstone is one of those places that is impossible to explain to someone who hasn't been there. Oh sure you hear all about how amazing it is, but until you actually go, no description will do it justice. Here's my cliff notes version. First off it's HUGE. It takes the better part of the day to drive around in it without stopping. Every five to ten Miles offers a drastically different yet equally amazing Vista. And every twenty Miles or so is a hotel with a supporting village of campgrounds, restaurants, gift shops and gas stations only to turn into wilderness again a few hundred feet away. Throughout the park there are natural oddities like the famous geysers, steam vents, bubbling mud pits, and cascading terraces of sulfuric acid eroded limestone. Here's a smattering of pictures I took:
bison meandering down the road
vast hillsides filled with downed pines from the 1988 fires
The laundry room where I did laundry
waterfalls
cascading terraces of eroded limestone and the Hot Springs that did the eroding
my tent. How I love my yellow tent
and me cold and tired in the campground bathroom at 8 in the morning.


permalink written by  JRadhirsch on September 6, 2008 from West Yellowstone, United States
from the travel blog: The Great American Road Trip
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Day 7: Grand Tetons? What Grand Tetons?

Jackson, United States


By the time I left Yellowstone I was so overwhelmed that I couldn't take any more beautiful scenery. I was spent. I knew I needed to see the Grand Tetons just south of the park, so I headed that way, but really couldn't appreciate it. I ended up just driving straight through, didn't take any pictures, and have nothing to say except that I'll be back.

permalink written by  JRadhirsch on September 7, 2008 from Jackson, United States
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Thermopolis is so much fun to say

Thermopolis, United States


A twelve hour drive through Wyoming was what my mind needed to snap out of its beauty coma. First on the list was Thermopolis. How could I not stop in a town that ended in opolis. I was hoping for some lunch when I got there, but alas, It was Sunday in Wyoming. The church parking lots were full, the streets and stores closed and empty. i did however find a mini golf place which had a burger stand that was open
. It was too cold to play golf, but I did get a cheeseburger and a Marshmallow flavored malt. Fitting as i love malt and I was just roasting marshmallows the night before while smelling like a mixture of campfire and rotten eggs( the rotten eggs smell was from the sulfur steam billowing out of every crack in Yellowstone)


permalink written by  JRadhirsch on September 7, 2008 from Thermopolis, United States
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blizzard

Buffalo, United States


The rest of the drive through Wyoming I will sum up here. There's a beautiful section of the Wind river that passes through a Canyon where I drove through a mountain.
Big Horn State park which at the top of was a full on blizzard. It started as a few flurries somewhere halfway up the mountain range and at grew in intensity until I couldn't see 100 feet in front of me.
Pretty red cliffs in Shoshoni. and that mashed potato mountain in Close Encounters: Devil's Tower. 12 hours of Wyoming in five minutes. I arrived in South Dakota at 9pm and am staying with this really amazing couchsurfer named Chris who is a youth leader at a Lutheran church. He and his neighbor who also hosts couch surfers are taking me mountain climbing later this afternoon in the Black hills I'll report back when I have access


permalink written by  JRadhirsch on September 7, 2008 from Buffalo, United States
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Preconceived notions

Rapid City, United States


I don't know that I had ever thought about what Rapid city, SD would be like, but it wasn't this.
I just assumed anyplace named Dakota would be sleepy and devoid of people. not at all. Downtown is thriving with a cool art scene and beautifully maintained old west architecture. Rapid City is also known as the President's City due to it's close proximity to a certain mountain carving of four of our presidents. One of my favorite things about this city is that on every street corner there are life sized bronze statues of presidents. I lost count of how many but at four corners per intersection they add up right quick. After hanging out with Couchsurfing host Chris and his neighbor Scott the night before, again swapping stories which is what couchsurfers do, I hit the streets looking for caffeine. When I got to my car there was a parking ticket on it. For $5. Never mind that the stated violation was for being parked over 72 hrs downtown (ummm, no I wasn't) for $5 it isn't worth fighting. Rapid City provided me with well over five bucks worth of value. I walked around downtown and discovered a coffee shop called Alternative Fuel. Digging the name and assuming some sort of liberal vibe I went in. Inside it looked like a really hip place with comfy leather couches, high cafe tables, a stage for local bands and a nice refrigerator case filled with yummy things. I ordered a latte and a slice of their tomato spinach quiche and started looking at the community boards. Curiously, there were a lot of posters for events promoting "Life" concerts looking like any poster you would see for a cool local band in say any small city USA. Then I started listening to the music being pipped in and the lyrics were referencing faith and Jesus. Holy crap! This was a christian youth coffee house. The alternative fuel was Jesus. mmmmm. Jesus.

So much for my preconceived notions. This place was hip AND faithful. Good for them. I think it's nice that people have recognized that many churches are out of touch to the younger folk in this country that they are working to fix that and that said youth are responsive to it. Now, I didn't tell them that I was a secular Jew, but the quiche was excellent. I also got a phone call while enjoying my born again coffee from my friend Joan and got to share my shocking revelation with her. It was great talking with her. One of my final acts at ACT was to hire her and one of the downsides about leaving was not getting to work with her. I think she brings a great energy for the job and is just an all around cool person. We'll hang out more when I'm back.

Chris was due back from work around 3pm and we were going to go climbing near Mount Rushmore so I headed out into the Black hills to do some more exploring before that happened. This section of Rapid City has taken the notion of Tourist trap and filled with with tourist attractions that actually sounded genuinely fun. I counted 4 mini golf places(one of them offering indoor blacklight golf), 2 go kart establishments, something called "The maze" which looked like a giant labyrinth, paint ball, 2 Christmas Villages (okay not genuinely interesting, but kitschy interesting) and a water park. Also near here is Sturgis which you may know as the home to the largest motorcycle rally in the world. This is Harley Davidson country. The thing I was most excited to see was the Crazy Horse Memorial. If you don't know, The Dakota tribe, pissed off about the building of Mount Rushmore in the Black Hills (promised to them by some president or other and in typical USA/Indian relations never delivered) hired the assistant of the Ruchmore sculpter to build a monument of their own. This white, Polish artist moved into the black hills and set about to build a memorial to Crazy Horse who refused to sign any treaty and was stabbed in the back by a US soldier under a banner of truce. This memorial when completed (dude died in 1988 and his family continues his legacy) will be 16 times the size of Rushmore.

I seem to have a fascination with large scale projects that their designers know they will never see finished. Something about undertaking a project larger than they are that will be conitnued by generations to come. See Gaudi for more on this.

Having had preconceived notions of Mount Rushmore, now made even more acute by my visit to Crazy Horse, I took off to do a one eyed drive by and then hook up with Chris. Preconceived notion smashed again. I loved the memorial.

The whole set up, the piped in patriotic music the beautiful scenery, the decision to add Roosevelt and the thinking into which versions of the presidents to use, the whole thing was great. The snack bar was particularly wonderful. They sold President soda and I got to drink a bottle of Jimmy Carter Cream Soda. My favorite modern president and my favorite flavored beverage in one.

Chris and I hooked up and went for a really tough hike through the black hills that made my volcano hike look easy. Good thing I walked through that the other day, or I would chickened out on this one. We climbed to the top of this beautiful granite outcropping called Little Devil's Tower and was rewarded with breathtaking vistas.

. I also got to use the GPS feature on my knowledge box and took this screen cap.
and this one

After our hike we met up with another Couch surfer coming in from Minnesota at a local family restaurant and had some rhubarb pie ala mode

Today I'm off to see the rest of South Dakota and will try to make it North Dakota tonight. We'll see.

Justine, this is for you



permalink written by  JRadhirsch on September 8, 2008 from Rapid City, United States
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Day 9: Across South Dakota

Interior, United States


Day nine started with me writing that really long blog post this morning. It put me behind schedule and as is becoming common on this trip, I didn't make it to my intended destination. I had planned on visiting North Dakota and stopping tonight in Fargo, but I only made it as far as Sioux Falls, SD and will probably skip North Dakota all together. I have a couch lined up in Minneapolis tomorrow night and if I go to ND, then it's a 10 hr drive and I don't get to see much except the freeway. If I go straight from here, it's 4 hours and I get to see a whole bunch more. It's okay. Someday I need to come back and see North Dakota and more than the five Miles of Montana that I crossed through getting into Yellowstone. Can't do it all.

My route across South Dakota took me near the Badlands National Park and since I bought a National Parks pass at Yellowstone, I knew it wouldn't cost me anything to get in, so instead of hitting hwy 90, I drove on a lovely 2 lane road called Hwy 44 and turned into the park. Yet again, Teddy Roosevelt proves why he is on Mount Rushmore. The antiquities act that he invoked to start up the parks service and preserve unique areas of the country was an amazing achievement and has left a great legacy that I for one am enjoying immensely and you all should as well. Thanks Teddy. I owe you one. Here's a crappy picture I took to give you an idea of the terrain, but it doesn't do it justice and I didn't stay long enough in the park to really feel like I absorbed it.



permalink written by  JRadhirsch on September 9, 2008 from Interior, United States
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Wall Drugged

Wall, United States


The road out of the Badlands leads straight to Wall, South Dakota the home of world famous Wall Drug. Way in the way back of time the wife of the owner of a tiny trading post in Wall suggested to her husband that he put up a sign on the main road offering free ice water and thus began a trend across these United States of luring passersby into small towns with offers of free stuff or some sort of novelty. He also invented viral marketing by giving out free bumper stickers and signs Not to mention the art of advertising anywhere in the world simply to build brand identity. How many signs have you seen no where near South Dakota advertising it? There's on in Antarctica for Peet's sake. Wall Drug is in actuality a glorified gift shop. They've expanded it over time to include other things, but at its heart it is just a brand selling itself. It is a good thing however that I am on a tight bidget on this trip because I would have easily dropped $400-$600. They have the first true Western Shop I have seen on this trip and I wanted these boots really badly.


They also had the most amazing collection of Western cut, floral print snap shirts. If you look into my closet you will find more of those kinds of shirts than anything else and I have a really hard time finding affordable ones in San Francisco. These were $50 a shirt. Half the price of the shops back home, but still too much for me to spend on this trip. (I wear a L or XL btw, hint, hint.) Okay. a few other things at Wall that I deemed photo worthy:

reminds me of a few friends I have.

Jackalopes are very popular in South Dakota. I don't really get it, but okay.



permalink written by  JRadhirsch on September 9, 2008 from Wall, United States
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Paint by corn

Mitchell, United States


Several hours later down hwy 90 you come to Mitchell home of the Corn advisory board or some such organization and their Corn palace redecorated each year with a new theme in actual corn. It looks like they are in the middle of switching out this years facade as it said both 2008 and 2009 and there were sections that were still missing corn. The stage hand in me loved how they used a paint by numbers technique to lay out which variety of corn to apply. Hey look: The Golden Gate Bridge!

This is a close up so you can see the actual corn
Not pictured here is the corn version of Mount Rushmore which brings up an interesting thing about South Dakota. The only thing anyone advertized for in South Dakota is Mount Rushmore. Here I am clear across the state and it all over the place. In fact, every where I stopped in this state had brochures, posters, bric a brac, travel packages and everything else you can imagine for one damn piece of carved rock. Is it possible that there is nothing else to do in SD? I seem to have proven that wrong, but I guess the tourism board puts all of its money in one basket. It would help explain why Rapid City was so cool and why the rest of the state has yet to glisten to me. oops. no self portraits today.


permalink written by  JRadhirsch on September 9, 2008 from Mitchell, United States
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Day 10: World's Third Largest

Darwin, United States


It's been two days since I last had a wireless connection for my computer yet so much has happened. Up until I hit Minnesota I had 2 nights and a day in each place I hit. From here until Toronto on the 13th I only have a night and half a day in each stop, so I've had to choose more selectively what to see. I'm choosing to spend my morning in Madison catching you all up on what's be going on, mostly so I don't forget ,but also so that I have a record of it when I want to look back years from now. By the way, I would like to really thank everyone for their encouraging comments. It's been great reading your replies and and getting your messages. This trip has really been fantastic and I'm so glad that I have this forum to reflect on how special it all is. I feel very blessed to have the ability to do this. Are any of you having a hard time following the order of the trip, and if so, does it matter? I liked blogabond because of the may they provide of the trip, but I'm finding the order things get listed awkward. I'm not sure what to do about it, but I think I'm going to list the day on each entry and see f that helps. Let me know.

Now on to my trip through Minnesota.

One of my favorite resources for this trip has been the website www.roadsideamerica.com They offer up many of the oddball and interesting places I've seen or visited. I had been looking for "The World's Largest......." sorts of things, but it wasn't until my sister forwarded me the link to Minnesota that I came upon

For my money, I think the more qualifiers a town places on their roadside attraction the better. This is an 8' tall ball of twine rolled by the son of a former Senator from the county. The ball itself wasn't rolled in Darwin, but in the county and Darwin was willing to put up the money to build the glassed in gazebo it currently lives in. The glare from the glass was really bad, but here's the best shot if it I could get.

There are two larger balls of twine in the US, but they were either machine rolled, or group rolled. The really funny thing is that neither of the other balls live in the tows that they were rolled in either. One is clear across several states in fact. I love that a town can buy its way to kitchy glory. My favorite self portrait of the day is my reflection in the glass.



permalink written by  JRadhirsch on September 10, 2008 from Darwin, United States
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Day 10, part 2: Relections of Minneapolis

Minneapolis, United States


I raced to Minneapolis trying to get there before the Walker Art Museum closed at 5pm. I got there at 4:15, sort of raced through the museum and then realized that their sculpture garden is open to the public all day. What a magnificent garden. The center piece is this larger than life cherry on a spoon fountain (oops, water feature) in the middle
Inside a greenhouse lives an early Frank Gehry fish, which if you know his architecture helps explain the influence of fish on his work.
My favorite part though was the plaque under it.
Here's another view from inside the greenhouse.
The Walker sculpture garden had just finished it's 20th anniversary celebration over the summer and they had installed an artists designed Miniture Golf course. Now, as it was The second week of September I didn't get to see it, but I did get to see the remains of it as they were tearing it up. I loved the contrast of the dead grass that had been under the fake greens as if it was the ghost of miniature golf.
I had so such good luck hooking up with my couchsurfing host Andrew until 9pm so had to fend for myself in the city (totally fine by me btw) for dinner. thanks to Yelp and my knowledge box I found out about a restaurant called the Red Stag. I looked up directions, drove to the block and couldn't find it. The address simply didn't exist. I checked back with my iphone, saw there were like 20 reviews for this place at that address, but still no restaurant. I called them and they repeated the address, but I still couldn't find it. I was getting frustrated. 1st Avenue and 5th Street seems like a pretty easy place to find, I was there and no restaurant. Then it dawned on me. Minneapolis is one of those cities that has quadrants. I was in NW and the restaurant was in NE. If your designing a city, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE if your going to have quadrants, stay clear of using numbered streets and avenues. It is confusing enough to have to keep track of 1st street from 1st avenue let alone having to know that It's 1st Street NE. Okay, I'm done venting about that. It was well worth the frustration. The restaurant had the MOST AMAZING PORK CHOP I'VE EVER EATEN. I've eaten a lot of pork chops in my life, but this one, oh my god. Before that arrived, I had their Watermellon Gazpacho. also delicious. It was too dark to get a good shot of the chop, but here's one of the soup. yummm.


permalink written by  JRadhirsch on September 10, 2008 from Minneapolis, United States
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