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Chris and Charly's Pacific Island Pit-Stop

a travel blog by chrischarly


After 6 months in the Western world, it is time to put back on our backpacks, pack away the rain coats and hit the Pacific!
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Snorkelling

Dolphin Bay, Fiji


After breakfast this morning Chris went off for an early snorkel whilst I waited behind and watched him from the beach waiting for him to return to inform me whether or not there were any jellyfish in the water as I wasn’t keen to risk it again. After about an hour he returned having failed to spot any jellies, great news so after lunch I also went out for an hour, with Chris to snorkel up and down the bay.
They have had some heavy rains and landslides here so the visibility isn’t very good unless you are in the shallows but there are tons of fish to be seen and we saw 3 lobsters hiding under rocks. Dolphin Bay, the place we are staying protects this bay from fishing so the fish are in abundance everywhere which is great for snorkelling, but not so much for the locals as they are not allowed to go spear fishing. After we came back, we showered and changed before going to the bar to have a couple of drinks, use the internet and wait for a delicious dinner of fish kebabs, using the ribbon-tailed snapper that was caught yesterday.


permalink written by  chrischarly on April 17, 2012 from Dolphin Bay, Fiji
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Pacific Island Pit-Stop
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Corals that look just like cabbages

Dolphin Bay, Fiji


As soon as the generator started this morning at 7am we woke up, dressed, and walked to the restaurant to eat breakfast before I squeezed into my stinger suit, applied some sun-cream, grabbed some fins and got on the boat to take us snorkelling and another guest diving leaving at 8:30am.
The first spot we stopped at was called ‘Coral Garden’ which was amazing. So many beautiful corals and millions of stunning fish, including 4 white-tipped reef sharks! 2 of them were huge but
the third one was probably the most impressive sighting as I was snorkelling along with Chris a little ahead and it started swimming closer and closer to be, until I managed to catch up with Chris to show him as well.
It was pretty scary as it was obviously quite interested in me, not for its dinner luckily, just being nosey. Then after an hour in the water and the current getting stronger we climbed back onto the boat and moved on to another place called,
‘Cabbage Patch’ aptly named due to a section of coral looking just like a cabbage patch, of course. This site was also really nice especially alongside the reef but I think it is more aimed towards divers as it is a lot deeper so visibility wasn’t as great.
But still a fantastic stop off and we enjoyed playing in the bubbles created by the divers underneath us. After another hour in the water Chris and I were pretty tired, so once again climbed out and relaxed before collecting Mike and Roland.
We then drove back on the boat, showered and hungrily ate our lunch; a tasty curry and we then read books for the afternoon, before having Lovo for dinner.

This is a traditional Fijian dish cooked underground for 50 minutes at a seriously high temperature. My God it was delicious! We then stayed up for ages chatting to other guests staying at Dolphin until crashing out.


permalink written by  chrischarly on April 18, 2012 from Dolphin Bay, Fiji
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Pacific Island Pit-Stop
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Bye Bye Dolphin Bay

Savusavu, Fiji


Gutted that we have to leave here this morning. Especially when we know that we are faced with 2 days of solid travel, which we are not looking forward to, to get back to Nadi to fly onto Tonga. So after breakfast we said goodbye to everyone and the staff all sang us a farewell-song in Fijian which was a really nice touch, followed by giving us a necklace each made out of shells.
Then we got into the boat to take us back to Taveuni to get straight onto a Ferry to take us back to the mainland again. Although the Ferry was busy, it was fine and took about 1hr30 minutes. Then, straight onto a bus bound for Savusavu. It was so much easier than we thought it would be. Fiji transport is actually very organised.
Bus journey was ok too, the roads of course were shocking so it was bumpy but we arrived in Savusavu at 3pm. We thought the easiest thing to do was to go back to Sunset Lodge as we knew the beds were comfy and the prices reasonable so this time got into a taxi and went straight there after booking tickets all the way to Lautoka (close to Nadi) for tomorrow. After unpacking our things we went to the internet café, then for some dinner, followed by a beer and an early night, before our 4.30am start in the morning.


permalink written by  chrischarly on April 19, 2012 from Savusavu, Fiji
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Pacific Island Pit-Stop
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Something smells very fishy...

Suva, Fiji


Alarm went off at 4:30am this morning. There should only be one 4:30 in the day and definitely not the am one. We then quickly finished packing, got dressed and went outside to wait for our taxi. We had booked it for 4:50am and by 5:10am it was clear that he was a no-show. What a bummer. No other taxi drivers were answering their phone so we had no choice but to power-walk it down to the bus stop. Well it started off as power walking but in the dark and with our bags I soon resulted to dawdling as that was the fastest speed I could muster up this early. Stupid taxis. We luckily arrived in time for the bus, which we were delighted to see was more than half empty, so picked our seats right at the front, got comfy and we set off.
Unfortunately as the bus didn’t have 20 or more people we had to get off at ‘The Junction’ and clamber onto a very full bus, with the only seats left for us at the back. Not ideal for a long trip, but no other choice. We then drove for another 4 hours before arriving and waiting for the ferry in Nabawalu, for an hour along bumpy muddy roads and I had the pleasure of sitting behind a man with hygiene issues for the way. Then, onto the ferry bound for Natovi Landing, which was a lot nicer than sitting on a bus as we had space to move around and lucky managed to grab a space on the comfy sofas in front of the T.V. to watch a couple of films along the way. Then after the approximately 4-hour journey we got back onto the bus for another long ride to Lautoka. The bus stank. Luckily the man mentioned earlier moved seats had his seat nicked by someone else so he found somewhere else to sit and a lady plonked herself down next to me who had obviously eaten something that didn’t agree with her so I had to open the window and close the window every few minutes. But the journey only got smellier.
About an hour in there was a very strong smell of rotten fish eggs, well that was the only thing I could compare the smell to having had the pleasure to smell them before when fishing off the wharf in Levuka and the smell just got more and more intense throughout the journey without a clue where it was coming from. After 3 hours I just couldn’t take it anymore and moved right up to the front with Chris when a couple of people got off for the last hour. At maybe 8:30pm we finally arrived at our destination, opened up the luggage department to collect our bags to be faced with the intense fish smell once again. So that was where it was coming from! So I prayed and prayed that it hadn’t seeped into our bags and we found Chris’ first which did have a hint of fish smell, but pushed right into the middle was my bag, and ironically sitting on top of my bag was the source of the smell. So, soaked through from the rain that had leaked in, the fish (which we discovered was dried fish) was now wet and all the smelly juices had soaked through to my bag. It was vile and I had no choice but to put it on to walk and find a mini bus to take us to Nadi airport, so I too stunk, as that is where Wailoaloa agreed to pick us up from. The ride to the airport didn’t take long, maybe 30 minutes and as expected, our transfer wasn’t waiting for us, even though we asked them to be there 15 minutes before we knew we would arrive as they are so slow at everything. So after calling them twice, they finally came at 9:45pm, so we hurried back to the resort in time to order some dinner as we were famished. Then, off to bed after washing my stinking bag.


permalink written by  chrischarly on April 20, 2012 from Suva, Fiji
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Pacific Island Pit-Stop
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Thieving Wailoaloa

Nuku'alofa, Tonga


WE HAVE BEEN ROBBED!!!

Chris calmly woke me up this morning to tell me. He had realised this after noticing that the alarm had failed to go off on our phone, so after going to the toilet he got dressed and put on his shorts to discover that his wallet was in the wrong pocket, so thinking this strange, he checked inside to notice that it was empty of cash and then that our phone, which we had left on charge on top of the fridge was also missing.

Thank God we watched a film last night so had to charge the laptop and thus it was next to Chris’ sleeping head all night or that would’ve clearly been taken too. Can’t believe this has happened after 22 months of nothing, which of course is lucky I know, but still. Just hate the thought of someone creeping about in our room last night whilst we were fast asleep. Plus, we ALWAYS make sure we lock our door, so pretty sure it was the staff here at Wailoaloa, but of course we cannot prove it, but luckily our cards all remained in our wallet, but maybe that was so we could still pay our hotel bill before checking out! So, even though we stayed here when the floods were in Nadi and we hated it then, we came back as it was easy as we fly out to Tonga today. BIG MISTAKE.

After calming me down a bit Chris went straight to the bar to inform the manager that we had been burgled and left me inside the room as I was too upset to leave. He then came back explaining that a manager will be over to speak to us straight away in our room, so we waited. After an hour, we gave up waiting and went down to the bar to order breakfast and asked yet again to speak to someone.

As we were flying out today to Tonga we had to leave the resort at 2pm so we needed to get this sorted asap and I the staff were aware of this so I think they were trying to delay speaking to us as long as they could with the hope that we would just forget and think it wasn’t worth the hassle. But someone Chris managed to persuade me to be patient and eventually a manger came over to see us and said she had checked the cctv and no one was near our room all night. This is where my patience started to run out and I told her to check it again to make sure as someone clearly took our things as it was obviously not a gecko, so we disappeared and returned a little while later telling us once again that no one was there in a patronising manner which implied to me that she didn’t believe us. I then of course was very upset in the way this was being dealt with, not at all seriously so asked he to call the police so they too could check the cameras as nothing was going to be solved through this resort and by getting the police involved may also scare the resort and staff into action.

Chris then went and saw the cctv himself as we obviously didn’t believe the manager and discovered that the camera didn’t even cover our room! So no wonder they didn’t see anything on it! But of course this wasn’t mentioned to us, which fuelled us even further to belive that our things were stolen by a staff member as they knew nothing would show on the cameras and they would know where to hide and not be seen.

The police arrived after yet a few more hours of waiting and to be fair to them, they were fantastic. They assured us that they were going to conduct a full investigation into what happened and wrote us a long detailed report of what we told them and promised they would do whatever they could and email us the details of what they found.

As we said before, this was our last day in Fiji and we had the most amazing time previous to this day so we were glad when we finally arrived at the airport and we just decided that we would put this all behind us, well after I write a review on both Trip Advisor and Hostel Bookers so future travellers contemplating staying at Wailoaloa will think twice before risking their belongings also disappearing.

Anyway, we did strike lucky when checking in as the lady at the desk asked us if we minded having emergency exit seats, so we jumped at the chance knowing that this always meant extra legroom as long as we promised to help (touch wood) in the event of an emergency.
But the flight was delayed an hour, and a further hour once we were on the plane as we were waiting for 2 other passengers to get on as a plane was late arriving from Hawaii. But check out how much leg room I got! A whole extra seat’s worth! What a bonus! The flight once we were in the air was only an hour long and we chatted the whole way with another traveller sat next to us, Hal who came to stay in the end with us at ‘Toni’s Lodge’ as we had a pick-up waiting for us.

The guesthouse was about 30 minutes away from the airport, and about 15 minutes from town and it is pretty basic but clean and cheap for Nuku’Alofa. We were also luckily upgraded as the house we had originally booked, ‘The Green House’ was over-booked so we got a nicer double room at ‘The Blue House’ for the same price. Bargain. We stopped at the super-market en-route and joined in drinking some Kava with some other people staying here so it turned out to be quite a late night in the end before turning in to a nice room with a bed big enough for 4 people.


permalink written by  chrischarly on April 21, 2012 from Nuku'alofa, Tonga
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Pacific Island Pit-Stop
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Sunday= Day of Rest

Nuku'alofa, Tonga


Everyone staying here at ‘The Blue House’ woke up today feeling rough and dizzy, including both Chris and I and I had a bad stomach to accompany it. So we didn’t achieve much today as none of us had the energy or motivation to do so. But as it is a Sunday, that didn’t matter much anyway as no-where is open or any activities even flights don’t run. So Sunday is definitely a day-of-rest, so we took complete advantage of that and just relaxed and watched T.V. and films all day.

permalink written by  chrischarly on April 22, 2012 from Nuku'alofa, Tonga
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Pacific Island Pit-Stop
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Into the city

Nuku'alofa, Tonga


We caught a shuttle bus into town; well it is in fact the capitol of Tonga, so a city, but it is quite small and reminds me of a small Asian town actually. Which is nice as we don’t really like cities anyway.
But as it is small, there isn’t much to do or shops to buy anything decent so the main reason to go in and buy a new Mobile was unsuccessful as they were all really expensive for what they were. We just wanted a dirt cheap ugly-looking thing that no one would want to steal. We then went for some cheap local lunch which was a BBQ.
Pretty unhealthy BBQ actually as the meat was really fatty so only something you could eat as a one-off, but it still tasted good. The shuttle bus was due to pick us up in another 2 hours after lunch, and as we had already walked all around the city and ate lunch we had nothing else to do except sit in a
café and waste away the time. But the staff were really friendly so we got the good opportunity to learn some news Tongan words as well as phases to help us decipher the local menus, but even their English menu was funny to read but at least it was understandable. Then once the shuttle arrived, we came back, went on the internet for a while before relaxing back in the T.V. room for the evening.


permalink written by  chrischarly on April 23, 2012 from Nuku'alofa, Tonga
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Cancelled flight :(

Nuku'alofa, Tonga


As we no longer have a phone we no longer have an alarm, so Moni, one of the staff here woke us at 6am so we got get packed and ready for our flight leaving at 8am to Vava’u. All through the night the rain hammered down and this morning was no different, the first thing Chris said to me was, ‘I bet the flight is cancelled’ and unfortunately he was right. We left Toni’s at 6:30am and drove to the airport arriving at 7am to check in, drink some coffee before we noticed the change on the whiteboard.
The rain was starting to clear a bit but the pilots also sitting in the café confirmed they were waiting for the weather to clear the other end before we could set off, so after 3 hours of waiting it was announced that the flight was in fact cancelled and rescheduled for tomorrow at 11am. So we called Toni and asked him to come and pick us up. But unfortunately as we had already checked out, some other people were due to move into our room and as there were spaces in ‘The Green House’ now we either had to move there or pay to stay back in ‘The Blue House’ where we were originally. So we upgraded as it’s far nicer. Spent the afternoon on the internet and again watching films as it rained almost continuously all day so not nice to anything else.


permalink written by  chrischarly on April 24, 2012 from Nuku'alofa, Tonga
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Pacific Island Pit-Stop
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To Vava'u

Three Little Birds, Tonga


We set off again to the airport to fly to Vava’u but luckily a little later in the morning at 9:30am than at the crack of dawn and amazingly even though there were thunder storms at the airport the flight was still going just 30 minutes later than scheduled.

But unfortunately they had changed planes as the pilot that flies the DC-3 had run out of hours and we had to fly in a CIC. Poor Chris was broken-hearted as he desperately wanted to fly in this 60yr-old war plane, but I still think that the plane we did go on was pretty special, it looked like a rocket and was tiny and claustrophobic inside.

But at least we made it and in 2/3rds of the time the DC-3 manages it in. We were met at the airport by Lee, who took us to the beach and our home for the next few days. It is an amazing beach and the Fale was really nice, although pretty basic without electricity.

They had made an extra effort to finish it for us and it was nicely made up for our arrival. They had erected a temporary water tower so we could have some running water, all from rain water. Once we had settled in, the tide was low, and there were locals collecting shells to eat, so we put on our reef shoes and went out to join them, we even managed to find some for them.

The beach started as sand but quickly became rocky with coral and lots of hidden sea urchins, so we had to be careful where we walked. After a while Chris came back and got his swimmies on so he could go for a snorkel, and managed to spike the side of his foot with a sea urchin, luckily not too badly.

After a while Lee, Isi and the team set off and said they would return around 6.30pm to collect us for dinner. We chilled on our own private beach for a while, before having a quick shower and being picked up. We were taken back to the village to have dinner in Isi’s house with his lovely family. We asked to have just what they would eat and we had a delicious Tongan meal of raw fish in coconut milk, taro and some local salad. All washed down with a tea made from lime leaves.

After dinner we tried to have a chat with the family, who didn’t speak much English, but it was nice none the less. Then we headed to town to watch a drag show at Tongan Bobs, it was hilarious and called ‘Fak-a-lady’ and the ‘Fak’ part is pronounced the same as the common ‘f’ swear word, but instead of what it sounds like, it actually means ‘like-a-lady’.

We had a few beers each and after a couple of hours watching the show it finished and so they drove us back to our private little beach.

permalink written by  chrischarly on April 25, 2012 from Three Little Birds, Tonga
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Pacific Island Pit-Stop
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Yummy octopus

Three Little Birds, Tonga


Chris did some fishing off the wharf, unsuccessfully, and I chilled out on the beach reading my book. We headed into town after lunch to go on the internet and Chris tried to help Lee sort out access to her website so he could write it for her.

When we got back from town Chris went for a long snorkel, and some guy had been spear fishing catching 8 octopuses plus some other fish so Isi bought some for the House. We got ready to go to Isi’s House for another amazing meal, this time octopus cooked with Taro leaves. It was so yummy I could almost give up cheese for this.


permalink written by  chrischarly on April 26, 2012 from Three Little Birds, Tonga
from the travel blog: Chris and Charly's Pacific Island Pit-Stop
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