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Ruin

When the Arabs swept into northern Africa in the 11th century, they not only destroyed the last vestiges of the great Roman desert farming systems, but they also drove the Berbers into the desert. These Berbers managed to carve and construct entire towns out of rock cliffs, and established...

permalink written by  roel krabbendam on January 1, 2007 from Tataouine, Tunisia
from the travel blog: Harmattan

New Years Eve

Left waiting in Tataouine for 2 days until government offices reopen to get a special permit to cross a restricted zone to the Algerian border, I heard of a New Year’s celebration up in the hills and caught a ride from the hotel. It was in a granary (or "Ksar" or "Qasr") built like a fort,...

permalink written by  roel krabbendam on December 31, 2006 from Tataouine, Tunisia
from the travel blog: Harmattan

Lunch

Iraq rings out the old year with a hanging, the Krabbendams are making deep fried Dutch treats, and I’m watching Al Jazeera from a hotel room on the main square of Medenine, Tunisia. I spent the morning with Google Earth, addressing my concerns about navigating the desert just south of here,...

permalink written by  roel krabbendam on December 30, 2006 from Medenine, Tunisia
from the travel blog: Harmattan

Solitude

End of a day of shopping: 1. Electrical tape: Larry, the handlebar wrap just isn’t holding up at the bar end. 2. Scrubbie/sponge: Lots more cooking happening soon. 3. Wool socks: At least, the guy said they were wool… 4. Knife: From the cutlery bin at the department store. 5. Corkscrew/can...

permalink written by  roel krabbendam on December 29, 2006 from Gabes, Tunisia
from the travel blog: Harmattan

New email address

I hope you'll all feel free to continue adding comments to the blog, but I've also set up the following email account for the duration of the trip: rkrabbendam@yahoo.com Hope to hear from you. Cheers, Roel

permalink written by  roel krabbendam on December 29, 2006 from Gabes, Tunisia
from the travel blog: Harmattan

Regression Therapy

Here's how to bicycle the last 48 km of the day when your tri-deltoids are killing you, and this little bunch of muscles that you never knew you had right behind your left knee is turning to stone...regression therapy. 48: Africa 47: Car accident...mid-life crisis 46: A million trips to...

permalink written by  roel krabbendam on December 27, 2006 from Bi'r 'Ali Bin Khalifah, Tunisia
from the travel blog: Harmattan

Condensation

A hotel appears as the sun suggests rest...stay? go? another 25 km and then a muddy Field? Stay! 25 Dinar buys a room without heat in a hotel under renovation, but hot water runs from 8pm to midnight. It's enough, and a hot bath and dinner downstairs of couscous and chicken and bread...

permalink written by  roel krabbendam on December 27, 2006 from Bi'r 'Ali Bin Khalifah, Tunisia
from the travel blog: Harmattan

Pink bathroom

I'm staying in another hotel tonight: heat and hot water and a completely pink bathroom and a very large, deep tub to boot. I pulled in at 6pm, just after dark, my first 100km day. I'm here for 2 nights to give myself time to buy some crucial stuff: 1. a new knife (this trip keeps eating...

permalink written by  roel krabbendam on December 27, 2006 from Gabes, Tunisia
from the travel blog: Harmattan

Eat with me! You won't eat with me?

This is Mohamed el Amied Ben Hedili Ben Mohamed Ben Romd’hane, storekeeper, father of 2 children (ages 2 and 3), devout Muslim, and gentleman of real character. I approached him simply to buy a spoon. "Une cuiller seulement"? "Oui, une". He quickly had one of the 2 guys working...

permalink written by  roel krabbendam on December 26, 2006 from Kairouan, Tunisia
from the travel blog: Harmattan

Christmas Eve

I'm ensconced now in a Sheraton with wireless internet access, my gloriously overheated room is festooned with drying clothes, I'm about to have a gourmet Christmas dinner, I'm going to sleep for 12 hours, and the hell with camping anyway. Merry Christmas! Tonight's menu: 1. pate du canard...

permalink written by  roel krabbendam on December 24, 2006 from Al Hammamat, Tunisia
from the travel blog: Harmattan

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