Bhutan and India (2006) - shoshtrvls

Day 1
New Delhi, India
We arrived in New Delhi quite late last night and thus didn't sleep much overnight, although the hotel was lovely. We checked out around 8:30 a.m. and arrived at the airport quite early -- lots of time to kill and nothing of interest a the airport. Ellery is essentially on a hunger strike, refusing to eat anything unfamiliar.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 21, 2006 from New Delhi, India
from the travel blog: Bhutan and India (2006)

Day 1 (Continued)
Paro, Bhutan
The plane was slightly delayed but the flight to Kathmandu was short. The views as we landed were spectacular, and I'm amazed at how much Kathmandu has grown in 19 years. We stayed on the plane and then less than an hour we were in Paro. Although we had hoped to get a glimpse of Mt. Everest, there was too much cloud cover -- maybe on the way home.
With less than 50 people on the plane, clearing Bhutan immigration and customs is quick. I don't declare my cigarettes and am not caught. :-)
We are met by our guide Palden. He is young, but very poised and speaks perfect English. (Although English is the official language of Bhutan, you never really know ...). His attire is traditional: a black Gho, knee-high black socks, and black shoes. The Gho is made of pinstripe material with wide white cuffs. Traditional clothing is the norm -- western clothes are not worn while working.
We arrive at our hotel, the Gangety Palace. Quite traditional layout; we are given a large room on the top floor with wonderful views of the Dzong and the town of Paro. Ellery immediately falls asleep in the huge bed.
I meet Palden in the restaurant for coffee and biscuits before we head out for Kyichu Lhakhang temple. Build in the 7th century, it was/is said to pin an ogresses' left foot. The temple is small but filled with interesting buddhas. From there it is back to town, walking down the main street of small shops and restaurants. All the buildings -- houses, shops, hotels -- look the same. As in most rural places, cows and dogs rule the roads.
At dinner in the hotel, Palden tells of his trip tothe US in 2001, spending time with his cousin in Queens, NY, and in Boston, Colorado and, of all places, Cleveland (visiting with a family who had come to Bhutan). I also learn of his attempt to organzie a running trek, his 19-month old daughter, and other interesting tidbits. Ellery eats only rice.
The evening rains come during dinner. I suspect this will be a pattern. Els and I turn in around 8:30. I feel I am back to "me" -- me in an exotic location, feeling and exploring and open to the experience.
Notes: Palden presents us with kigs, which scarves, baskets, and a travel notebook and pen. And a nice touch was a note from Trish, who arranged our trip.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 21, 2006 from Paro, Bhutan
from the travel blog: Bhutan and India (2006)

Day 2
Paro, Bhutan
Ellery awoke at about 3:30 a.m. and didn't really to back to sleep, so we were both up quite early surveing the view from the hotel. Breakfast at 7:30 a.m. consisted of toast, butter and some bananas and, for me, horrible "baked beans."
Eventually we set off for the National Museum. As a former watchtower, the structure was interesting, as were many of the buddhas inside. The balance of the museum consisted of trongsas (banners) and other artifacts. The stairs in all the buildings are steep, built like the land.
Then it was to the dzong -- much larger up close. There was to be a special ceremony this evening so there were many people and monks about. Ellery and I bought cords knotted by the lama -- hers blue for water, mine red for fire. Monks as young as 7 moved about. The weather was perfect so we walked down the road, across the fortified bridge over Paro Chhu (river), near a chorten where our car and driver Dorji met us.
However, we weren't done with Paro yet because just as we were leaving we passed several men practicing archery, Bhutan's national sport. Even more interesting, they were using tratiional bows and arrows and were shooting arrows very, very far away. Fascinating.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 22, 2006 from Paro, Bhutan
from the travel blog: Bhutan and India (2006)

Day 2 (Continued)
Thimphu, Bhutan
On the drive to Thimpu, we passed Tamchhog Lhakhag, a private temple, and an old iron suspension bridge before arriving at Chhuzom, where the Paro Chhu and the Wan Chhu meet. Here we were stranded for about an hour because of road work, although this gave me (Ellery was asleep) time to walk through the small stalls where the roads meet, photograph the three chortens (Tibetan, Nepali and Bhutanese) at the rivers' convergence, and get an up close look at several prayer flags.
The drive from Chhuzom was uneventful -- food stalls along the way.
After checking int othe hotel and having a late lunch, we visited the Textile Museum, which Ellery enjoyed, and the paper-making factory, where Ellery bought a small scroll. The textile weaving, something Bhutan is known for, was very fine. There was a spectacular embroidered square that had taken 2 men one year to make.
Ellery and I then walked the main street of Thimphu. It didn't smell all the great, but that didn't stop Ellery from making friends with many small dogs. We visited a handcrafts store and had dinner at the hotel.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 22, 2006 from Thimphu, Bhutan

Day 3
Thimphu, Bhutan
Even though they had an American breakfast at the hotel, Ellery still insisted on eating just toast, butter and apples. I, on the other hand, ate cereal, eggs, toast with apple juice and coffee. We wandered a bit until Palden arrived promptly at 8:30.
Our first stop of the day was the National Memorial Chorten, building in memory of the Third King. Four stories tall and amazing statuary in the middle. Many pilgrims were circling the chorten and we spent a fair amount of time here.
(Notes: missing a site/sight -- Dechen Phadrang/neck cords??)
Then it was up to the remains of the zoo, which is now just a sanctuary for the Takin, the national animal, which appears to be a mix of goat and yak. Then we went up to the telecom tower for the view of Thimphu and the many, many prayer flags.
The drive down offered terrific views of the modern dzong and lead us to the Sangay Traditional Arts and Crafts School. We watched students learning a variety of crafts -- Ellery was most taken with the sculpting. Then to shopping and the Folk Heritage Museum -- a replica of a traditional farmhouse.
After lunch, Palden's wife took us shopping for a kira for Ellery, which she loves, and so do I. Then it was time for a small trek.
First we drove to our campsite along the Wang Chhu. Along the way we passed a rock with the largest painting of a buddha I think I've ever seen. Our campsite was just over the river from the road by way of an old covered bridge from the road. After tea, we hiked up a steep trail to the Cheri Goemba (monastery), where advanced monks now study. Imagine being in a Buddhist monastery in the Himalayan Mountains!
Our arrival at the Monastery was enhanced by seeing a barking deer, a mountain goat on the monastery tower and, best of all, several langurs (monkeys). We toured the temple, saw the monks at prayer and had tea, before heading back down.
A hearty river-side dinner capped off the day.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 23, 2006 from Thimphu, Bhutan

Thimphu, Bhutan
In the morning, we trekked up another mountain to the Tango Monastery, which hugs the side of the mountain. Ellery was a trooper and her complaints were few as she searched for flowers, trees and other markers. The final path was lined with flags. We toured the temple, watched the monks rush in for studies and then returned to the campsite for lunch.
Then it was a wonderful, albeit muddy, two hour walk back to Thimphu, passing farmhouses, Tibetan villages, a painting school, and farmers bringing their crops (such as potatoes) to market. Although I didn't write much about it, it was fantastic -- beautiful, mystical.
Back in Thimphu I bought myself a half-kira and jacket, and then had dinner a the hotel. I spent much of the evening sitting outside, smoking and talking with the hotel manager -- the type of experiences I relish.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 24, 2006 from Thimphu, Bhutan

We spent the first hour of the morning (after Ellery finished throwing up@@) at the weekend market in Thimphu. Piles and piles of vegetables, fruits, and spices were offered fro sale, and we ended up buying some bananas for our drive. Then we crossed the bridge to the handicrafts market and shopped. We bought many smaller items as gifts, a few things for Ellery to take to school, and two expensive pieces -- a Tibetan prayer book and a beautiful dagger.

Day 5 (Continued)
Punakha, Bhutan
After completing our shopping in Thimphu, we drove to Punakha. As we crossed the high mountain pass, the rain came (or we came to the rain) and Palden and Dorji hung a prayer flag at the top of the pass, where there were so many such flags that it was amazing.
We passed at least one hillside monastery and many villages and water-driven prayer wheels. The fog was thick for much of the drive, giving the rugged high jungle (and it was jungle) an eerie beauty. We eventually descended into the rice patty valley.
After lunch at our hotel, we continued on to the dzong (the fortress of happiness), a large, imposing structure in the valley. The main courtyard holds a large bodhi tree. The young monks were praying as we passed through on our way to the main temple. Although relatively new, it was spectacular, with 3 enormous buddhas, magnificently painted walls and gold pillars. We also climbed ot the top of the tower and visited two more temples before leaving the dzong.
Our final stop of the day was a short walk through the rice patties and a tiny village to a small temple called Chimi Lhaking, where we received a fertility blessing using an arrow and phallus (not that either Ellery or I are looking to be fertile right now). There was much praying going on inside -- throughout this trip was have chanced on several special prayer days/ceremonies as it appears we are traveling during certain auspicious days.
When we returned to the hotel, we found a group of Thai tourists who were a welcome diversion.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 25, 2006 from Punakha, Bhutan

Wangdiphodrang, Bhutan
This was a long day of driving, but spectacularly beautiful. We set out early from Punakha and soon came to Wangdue. Being "dzonged-out," and with more to come, we didn't stop at the dzong but did wander around the small town of Wangdi where the weekend market was occurring.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 26, 2006 from Wangdiphodrang, Bhutan

Tongsa, Bhutan
From Wangdi we climbed (by car) to Pele La, a pass at 3420 meters. As with all the passes, it was covered with prayer flags and a chorten, which in this case marked the coundary between Western and Central Bhutan.
The roadsides were covered with bamboo and eventually we stopped to take a short walk through beautiful fields to a small village. It was wonderful to watch Ellery running on the path through the fields of mustard. Although we were hoping to see some yaks, they were much further up the mountains. In the village, we were treated to a tour of a real farmhouse -- much better than the folk museum.
Continuing by car, past women making and selling bamboo mats pressed by the passing cars and passing many waterfalls, we soon arrived at our lunch stop - a relatively new restaurant in the middle of nowhere.
More driving, until we eventually spotted Trongsa (Tongsa) Dzong hanging on top of a mountain. (At the viewpoint, Ellery lost her camera -- it was bound to happen). Although it seemed that we were close to Trongsa, it was another half an hour or so until we reached the dzong.
Unlike the other dzongs we visited, this one was almost completely empty, giving it a very different feel. We didn't stay there long before heading to our hotel, by far the nicest one to date. We weren't here alone -- a woman from the Netherlands working for the Department of Tourism was waiting for a group of 15 guides that she was going to take on a new trek. We had a very pleasant early evening sitting on the terrace, drinking coffee and talking. Dinner with Palden included a nice wine, and Ellery and Dorji are becoming fast friends.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 26, 2006 from Tongsa, Bhutan

Jakar, Bhutan
This morning consisted of another beautiful drive up to the highest pass we'll encounter, Yotong La. From there we headed down into the Bumthang region.
The first calley we came to was Chhume, which at the time was without water or electricity. We stopped only briefly here at a weaving facility before heading over Kiki La to Jakar in the Choskhor Valley.
Our first stop was Tamshing Goemba, with probably the oldest wall paintings we've seen yet. But most amazing was a sand mandolin being worked on by one of the monks. It is truly a shame that I couldn't take a photo of it. And, sadly, it won't be preserved -- after a ceremony in which it is used, it is scattered to the wind. Also inside was a large colleciton of masks, drums and black hats used during the festivals.
We then drove by a small temple with a monolith in front (konchogsum), said to be one of the oldest in the valley. From there we went to the dzong, which was rather empty and far simpler than the others we've seen. Then we went to Kurjey Lkakhang, where the main temple featured the imprint of Guru Rimpoche in the mountain. Next was Jampa Lhakhang, another very old temple with a "mate" in Paro (Kyichu).
Our next stop was one of the funniest. Walking around an old abandoned palace, Wangdichholing, we noticed several young monks running up a flight of stairs. We followed, passing many pairs of abandoned sandals. Eventually, passing through two rooms, we came upon the young monks -- all huddled around a television watching a Bollywood movie! Apparently, they were taking advantage of the fact that their master was away.
We then took a short walk through the town of Jakar until reaching the final stop of the day, Kharchu Monastery, where we were met by another surprise -- two comedians entertaining the monks. Ellery danced around to their music and I think was as much of a show for the monks as were the comedians.
At evening, we were joined at the hotel by a couple from Italy (although she was originally from Malaga, Spain) and had enjoyable conversation until bed.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 27, 2006 from Jakar, Bhutan

Ura, Bhutan
Today we headed for Ura, another beautifully scenic drive, with views of all four valleys in Bumthang. We skipped the burning lake because the walk was too dangerous for Ellery. (Notes: goats, mani wall at pass).
In Ura, we stopped first at the monastery, where a crowd was gathered in the courtyard to elect a new caretaker. Walking through the town, we happened upon a ritual for someone's health; corn, grain, meat and mushrooms drying; a woman beating wheat from the stalk; and another old woman spinning thread. And Ellery somehow managed to find the only western toilet in town.
Then we went to the local school where Dorji's sister is a student. We visited several classes. As in Africa, we were surrounded by school children who wanted their photos taken.
A picnic on the side of the road on the way back and a stop at a second school where Ellery played soccer with the children rounded out the side trip.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 28, 2006 from Ura, Bhutan

Jakar, Bhutan
Returning to the hotel, I took a short hike to a very small village above the hotel, passing many children also wanting their photos taken. Palden looked through our purchases from Thimphu -- clearly from the look on his face, I overpaid for the dagger but probably got my money's worth for the prayer book.
The evening capped off wonderfully. Ellery made some friends and taught them tag and then they had a "play date" in our room where they drew pictures for one another and Ellery shared some of the toys that she had brought on the trip while our Italian friends cooked a terrific pasta dinner with "fixings" they had brought from home. And finally Ellery ate something other than rice!
written by  shoshtrvls on August 28, 2006 from Jakar, Bhutan

Jakar, Bhutan
In the morning, Dorji surprised Ellery with a handmade bow and arrow and she spent much of the morning practicing with her little monk friend before we left Jakar.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 29, 2006 from Jakar, Bhutan

Gangtey Gonpa, Bhutan
A long day of driving, beginning with a stop at the Swiss hotel to buy some cheese which Ellery pronounced as wonderful and then much retracing of steps. We stopped again at the weavers at Chhume where Palden selected many items to sell in Thimphu. We crossed Kiki La and Yo Tang La before arriving again at Tongsa. We made a quick stop at the bank and a second attempt to get a photo with the dzong in the background. Lunch was at the same "nowhere" restaurant, where we ran into the Italian/Spanish couple we shared the hotel with and another Italian couple whose path we have crossed before, and who will most likely be our companions for the remainder of the trip.
Eventually we arrived at the Phobjikha Valley and Gangtey Goemba, a very old monastery undergoing renovation. This offered us an amazing opportunity to see all the handiwork that goes into such an effort -- the woodworking, metal craft, etc. We also saw some women practicing a traditional dance and, best of all, an ancient ceremony in the goemba. Again, no photos allowed, and words can't accurately describe the sight of the elderly women lining the walls in the darkened temple, chanting and spinning their prayer wheels, while the monks banged the drums, clapped the cymbals and blew their long trumpets. (I did get audio through my video camera). The ceremony ended with with throwing of rice by all participants and a cacophony of sound.
We then made it to our hotel and after a short rest relaxed in a hot stone bath, a unique experience in which stones are heated in a fire and placed into a small section of a wooden bathtub, which then heats the water in the larger section of the tub. Movement of any kind brings more hot water into the main section. Overall, it was a very relaxing way to end the day.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 29, 2006 from Gangtey Gonpa, Bhutan

Wangdiphodrang, Bhutan
Another day of retracing our steps and chance experiences. We started with a quick stop at the information building of the black neck crane which migrates through the valley before heading back to Thimphu. Passed a family of monkeys -- macaques -- along the way.
This time we did stop at Wanghi Dzong and were glad we did. We caught the monks practicing their traditional dance for an upcoming festival and saw a relic of the buddha of power.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 30, 2006 from Wangdiphodrang, Bhutan

We took more note of our route back the Thimphu this time, stopping to really look at the water prayer wheels, tatas, and flora that we passed along the way.
The evening finished fabulously, with a delightful dinner at Palden's home, with Ellery and I both dressed in our Bhutanese finery.

Paro, Bhutan
Our final day in Bhutan started with another drive -- this one back to Paro. We made the road opening and stopped for sausages at Chuzzom before heading to our last major destination -- Tiger's Nest Monastery. We opted for the easy way up, being on horseback for about 3/4 of the way, and were glad we did because even the last bit of the walk was very tiring. But we had good company, a Malaysian couple on their honeymoon and trekkers from Michigan.
The monastery was more fascinating from the outside then for the inside since much of it has been recently rebuilt. But the views were fabulous and in keeping with our luck, we were invited to tea with the lama and watched buttercakes being made.
On the way back to the hotel, we stopped at the ruins of an old dzong, drukyel. We did some shopping and had a final night's dinner at a new restaurant called red rice, with Dorji carrying a sleeping Ellery up the steps to our room.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 31, 2006 from Paro, Bhutan

New Delhi, India
We woke up very early and bid a fond (truly fond) farewell to Palden and Dorji before catching our plane to New Delhi. Our luck continued as we flew above the clouds and had spectacular views of the snow-capped Himalayas, including Mount Everest.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 1, 2006 from New Delhi, India

Agra, India
Upon arrival in New Delhi, we were promptly met at the airport by our driver (no Dorji he) and began the arduous journey to Agra. I had forgotten how dirty, crowded, noisy, congested and completely poverty-ridden India is. It seemed to take forever to get out of New Delhi, and it was very hard on Ellery, especially when the children crowded around our car begging for money.
Even once out of Delhi, things were wretched the entire drive, something I don't recall from my last visit. The stalls, stands, and waste along the roadside was overwhelming, while trucks, cars, bikes, horses, motor rickshaws and even camels vied for space. Cows, bulls, oxen, water Buffalo, sheep and goats lined the road.
Five hours later we arrived at our first stop, Akbar's tomb at Sikandra. where Ellery was far more interested in feeding the monkeys than looking at the architecture. We next stopped at the Agra Fort, which was a disappointment as it had fallen into disrepair since my last visit and was full of etched graffiti.
We got our first glimpse of the Taj Mahal before checking into our hotel and taking a long hot bath before falling asleep.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 1, 2006 from Agra, India

Agra, India
Finally, the reason we're in India -- the Taj Mahal. As impressive the second time as the first. Here we hired a guide and it was worthwhile. We took our time to truly appreciate the building. Then back to the hotel in a carriage for a few hours of rest and realization before making the journey back to New Delhi.
Perhaps because it wasn't tainted by the horrendous drive through New Delhi, I appreciated the drive back at least a bit more. We were almost caught in a sit-in strike in Agra before passing by the semi-nomadic Indians in Utter Pradesh. The stick and mud huts, flocks of sheep at times blocking the road, camels pulling huge, huge loads, women with urns and piles of grain on their heads, and even the passing elephant all looked more pastoral. We asked the driver to stop in Murthra, but he didn't -- he pretended not to understand but I think he just wanted to get home.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 2, 2006 from Agra, India

New Delhi, India
The honking of horns, the extreme filth and poverty roadside and the eventual din of New Delhi, flooded roads and all, reminded me constantly of what a horrid country this really is. Not stopping at Murthra might have been a good thing because thanks to all that traffic we didn't arrive at our oasis of a hotel until after 6 p.m.
We went window and carpet shopping in the hotel and had a nice Italian dinner before turning in.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 2, 2006 from New Delhi, India

This last day was a blur. After a lazy morning at the hotel and after I bought the most beautiful carpet I've ever seen, we hired a driver, a good one this time, and drove all over New Delhi. A stop at Masjid-i-Jahan Numa was well worth it, except we were cautioned not to walk around in the area so we were quite restricted in what we could see of the bazaar. Then the Red Fort was closed, and we spent an excruciating few hours in the sweltering heat at the zoo and the old fort. We saw Humayan's Tomb and drove by the India Gate and through the government buildings before going to the airport and heading home.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 3, 2006 from New Delhi, India