Around the World (1987) - shoshtrvls

Day 1
Honolulu, United States
The trip beings. Our plane leaves LAX at 9:45 but Barbara doesn't arrive until minutes before take-off. We arrive safely in Honolulu where we are met by Norm, Barbara's mother's boyfriend. He takes to the condominium where we are staying -- its called the Governor Cleghorn and, while not particularly nice, it is within two blocks of Waikiki Beach. So, after dropping off our bags, we head for the beach for an hour. Waikiki is a real trip -- thin, tanned bodies checking out all the other thin, tanned bodies. Definitely not my kind of place. Anyway, after an hour or so, we went back to the condo, showered and changed, and walked to the Waikiki Shell.
It was opening night for the season and Uncle Martin had a table reserved right up front. The evening started with wine and hobnobbing with the creme de la creme of Honolulu society. Then came a wonderful catered dinner, Hollywood Bowl style. The music was "big band" by the Del Courtney Orchestra. It was quite enjoyable -- a nice way to start the trip (although I might have drunk a bit too much wine). Uncle Martin drove us home and we made arrangements for dinner the following evening.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 1, 1987 from Honolulu, United States
from the travel blog: Around the World (1987)

Day 2
Kailua, United States
After breakfast, Barbara and I rented scooters and drove up the coast to Kailua Beach. We had wanted to go further, but it was slow going and gas looked to be a problem. The scenery was beautiful -- we passed many nice little bays and coves along the way although the road was sometimes narrow and cars would pass at a rapid speed, honking all the way. Kailua itself was an okay beach, certainly not the prettiest we passed, but very local (except for the windsurfing lessons) and fairly quiet -- we stayed there a few hours.
We took the inland route back -- hwy 61 -- which winds its way through the mountains. Even more dangerous than 72 but worth it -- the scenery was classic Hawaii, very lush and tropical. We took a side road to Pali lookout, also very pretty. We finally got back to Waikiki (after almost ending up on the freeway) and took well-needed showers and made arrangements to go scuba diving and sailing the following day.
(The balance of this post has been rejected by the spam filter!@!)
written by  shoshtrvls on August 2, 1987 from Kailua, United States
from the travel blog: Around the World (1987)

Day 2 (continued)
Honolulu, United States
Dinner was around 8 at the Outrigger Canoe Club with Uncle Martin, Aunt Janet, Scott and Stacey. We sat at a table at the edge of the water with a view of the entire bay. Surprisingly, Scott and Stacey did not seem like complete brats (nice even) although Aunt Janet still seemed a real JAP. We talked about scooters (Scott has one too) and Uncle Martin offered the services of his Hong Kong and Beijing offices to help us plan our China trip.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 2, 1987 from Honolulu, United States
from the travel blog: Around the World (1987)

Day 3
Honolulu, United States
Our day began with scuba diving at a place called Magic Island on the south side of Oahu not far from Waikiki. There were four of us all together, the other couple were in the air force and on their way back to the states from Guam or something.
Our instructor was Pete Coogan, a really great guy who was very patient and very good. The water was kind of murky and there wasn't a lot to see, mostly tiny fish and some coral, but it was fun. Barbara, for all her certification and training, ran out of air first. The swim in took a while - we were out a lot further than I thought and the tides were fairly strong. It was definitely a good workout.
From there it was another shower, lunch and a walk around Waikiki. We got our shots for the continuing journey and then a two hour catamaran ride at sunset -- relaxing, pretty view, etc. For dinner we took Norm to Monteray Bay Canners (!). The food was okay but he enjoyed it and that was what mattered.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 3, 1987 from Honolulu, United States

A quick walk around Waikiki and we were off to the airport. The entire day was spent on the plane.

Tokyo, Japan
Basically, just more traveling, although we did have a two-hour refueling stop in Tokyo, just enough time to go through customs and get our passports stamped. We did have some trouble getting back in as our boarding passes were not of the usual variety. But we got back on the plane in plenty of time and continued on to Hong Kong.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 5, 1987 from Tokyo, Japan

Day 5 (cont.)
Kowloon, Hong Kong
After arrival, we promptly got our bags, passed through customs, checked into our hotel (The New World), showered and fell asleep. (new hotel, tiny rooms).
written by  shoshtrvls on August 5, 1987 from Kowloon, Hong Kong

Kowloon, Hong Kong
Up early, our first stop was to CTS and CAAC making travel arrangements to China. The process was simple but it did seem to take an awfully long time -- we weren't done until noon. Then, a fair amount of time was spent in a camera shop while Barbara replaced the one she left at home. We then had lunch next door at a Chinese restaurant populated by Hong Kong businessmen -- much time was spent watching how others ate and copying them.
From there we walked along the Harbor to the Star Ferry which we took to Hong Kong Island.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 6, 1987 from Kowloon, Hong Kong

Day 6 (cont.)
Hong Kong (historical), Hong Kong
A good part of the afternoon here was wasted trying to get to a hotel that Barbara wanted to stay at upon her return from China. After endless walking and getting nowhere, we finally gon on a bus and found the hotel. Barbara made reservations and, running out of time, we grabbed a cab to the Victoria Peak tram. The tram ride up was really very pretty, as was the view from the top. Unfortunately, we didn't have much time to explore and hurried back to Kowloon because we had booked a Hong Kong tour/dinner cruise for that evening. Interestingly, on the Star Ferry back we ran into a Hong Kong teenager who had sat next to us on the plane over.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 6, 1987 from Hong Kong (historical), Hong Kong

Day 6 (cont.)
Kowloon, Hong Kong
The evening tour was kind of hokey but a good view of Kowloon -- the neon signs and shops, the public housing and the few real homes for the wealthy. From there it was onto the bot, even more touristy (and empty) but it was a good view of the bay and Aberdeen. We missed our ride back to the hotel but the walk was short and pleasant.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 6, 1987 from Kowloon, Hong Kong

Shanghai, China
Another day spent mostly in transit, flying from Hong Kong to Shanghai. The flight was short but what with customs, getting to and from the airports, etc., it becomes an all day affair.
Arriving in Shanghai, we checked into our hotel (the Shanghai hotel!) which was somewhat outside of the town. We then took a cab to the Bund, the strip of land running along the harbor. We arrived in time to catch the 7 p.m. harbor cruise. Buying tickets was not too difficult once we figured out where to do it (and that there was a boat leaving at 7). We were ushered upstairs to an air-conditioned room and served watermelon (a very popular item in China), beef jerky and cold coffee.
The boat ride, not very interesting in itself as the Wangpu River is pretty ugly, was my first introduction to two very persisten influences on Chinese life -- the Cultural Revolution and the one-child policy. In the first class lounge was a horrible band composed of five forty year olds playing the worst renditions of American standards. The trumpet player was the worst and it was nearly impossible to tell what was being played. There was really only one explanation that I could figure -- the musicians were older because they learned to play before the cultural revolution and the poor quality can be attributed to the lack of contact with the west. This is really just a guess but the old men-band music syndrome appeared several times during the trip.
s for the children, they are the most adorable, well-behaved things, with their big brown eyes and killer smiles. What's so interesting is the amount of attention heaped on them, the boys especially (and there seem to be many more boys than girls !?). They are never left alone. Fathers are always holding their sons, either in their arms or on the front of their bicycles. You really notice that everyone has just one child -- a couple with two really stands out. Further, they seem to be potty trained as soon as they can stand. Only the tiniest babies are suitably attired - in pants with slits down the middle! No diapers (too dirty) -- mom just cleans up afterwards.
Back to the boat, in the lower deck there was an acrobatics and magic show on the way back. We missed the first part but managed to catch the magic performed by an amusing (but hardly flashy) middle-aged man. And his assistant was far from the scantily clad young girl we're used to in the west. But the routine was a good one and the audience of children was as interesting as the show itself.
The advertised 3-1/2 hour cruise was only 2-1/2 hours but came with souvenir hankies and pins. Besides, 9:30 is still relatively late Chinese-time, where dinner is eaten at 5 and restaurants close by 8 (stores too). No nightlife at all -- after the cruise we popped our heads into the Peace Hotel jazz bar -- really dead, so back to the hotel we trotted and went to sleep (when in Rome ...)
written by  shoshtrvls on August 7, 1987 from Shanghai, China

Shanghai, China
Out first real day of China, but first things first – CITS to make further plans, but about all that could be done was booking my boat from Shanghai to Hong Kong. However, we were given directions to the ticket office for the ferry up the Yanggze to Nanjing. It seemed neither far nor difficult so off we went.
Well, the place the CITS person indicated on the map was not the right office and despite the attempts to several well meaning Chinese, we got quite lost and ended up wandering through the French Concession and the old city. It was fascinating! People selling eels in the middle of the street, tying pigeons onto bicycles to take home for dinner – an entirely different world impossible to describe. And so many things I didn’t understand – men with what appeared to be dried snakes and fluffy things – fortune-telling of some kind? Even the main road was interesting with the thousands of bicyclists carrying just about everything on back.
Finally, we found the ticket office – an unmarked building, bike park below, tickets upstairs. With a little ingenuity and some help from a native or two, we were finally able to buy tickets for the following day. On the way back, Barbara decided to stop at a streetside shoe repair and have heels put on her shoes. By the time the shoemaker had finished, a small crowd had developed, with each person giving the shoemaker different advice.
From there we decided to walk to Shanghai Mansions and catch the view from atop (highly rated by lonely Planet). Along the way, we discovered the Friendship Store, China’s version of the Berioska. I bought one piece of jade, some ducks and bookmarks, while Barbara agonized over a large carpet (which she later bought).
Finally we made it to the mansions and yes, the view was marvelous, although a bit overcast. Then we grabbed a cab to the vicinity of the Park Hotel where the acrobatics dome was located. However, despite all our best efforts (and attempted bribes) we were unable to buy tickets, having been told that all shows were sold out for the next two weeks. (Highly unlikely, but other westerners were being told the same thing). Forced to accept defeat, we wandered back to the Park Hotel, stopping in music and department stores along the way. We also caught a glimpse of the Chinese version of three-card monte using bowls and balls (like the famous magic trick). While Barbara rested at the Park Hotel, I wandered around People’s Park – nothing special, but a nice walk around. Then it was back to the Friendship store so Barbara could buy her rug (I think) and the hotel.
For dinner we went to the Jinjang Hotel in the outer French Concession – obviously the nicer part of town. The meal was great (I mean, really good) and throughout we flirted with four men at the next table. They weren’t particularly attractive but interesting looking, and speaking a language neither Barbara nor I could place. Finally, when they were done with their meal they came over – Portuguese engineers from Macau. How boring! They invited us to meet them at the Peace Hotel Jazz Bar later that evening but having seen what a hopping place it was the night before, we declined. Instead, we walked around the hotel grounds a bit, eventually ending up in the hotel bar where, who should we meet but the four Portuguese. We joined them for a few drinks and they were really quite nice. We discussed the state of China politics and received much helpful advice on traveling through Portugal and Morocco. We were even invited to look them up if ever in Macau. All in all, a nice evening.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 8, 1987 from Shanghai, China

Shanghai, China
First a trip to the Jade Buddha Temple – our first real temple. It was crammed full with people, mostly Chinese and most actually praying. Lots of interesting people and customs – incense burning, coins being placed on a bell, parents teaching their children how to pray. But with all the tourists and children, it was hard to take this as a serious place of worship, which it was (complete with monks). As for the architecture and idols, they were interesting but not spectacular – it was really the people who were worth looking at.
Then it was back to the hotel to check out and off to the boat, with a quick stop at Yuyuan Bazaar and Wuxingting Teahouse (the adjoining gardens were cloed). Again, it was the sidestreets that were most interesting – laundry hanging from balconies, men sitting in doorways, etc.
We got to the boat in plenty of time, were escorted to our cabin and were asked to pay for our meals – dinner and breakfast. At this point we realized the boat was definitely going to take longer than expected – about 12 hours longer. Oh well.
The boat was definitely divided by classes, with sentries at the stairs and gates on the decks. We weren’t on the boat more than 10 minutes when laundry began hanging from every conceivable place. The only interesting people in our section were three guys from southern China, one of whom worked in Hong Kong. They were definitely three cool dudes, jeans and sneakers, but spoke very little English so the afternoon was spent making very laborious small talk. But they were very friendly – one even challenged me to arm wrestle and I did okay. Traveling with them were two crickets which Barbara named Tarzan and Jane. It took a while but they eventually got it.
Unfortunately, the only scenery was factories and boat – dinner was a welcome diversion. While we were the only two who paid for the special meal, it was well worth it. Quite good but,even more surprising was how it looked – gorgeous. A fish with its tail up, a rabbit made out of eggs, really an unexpected treat. (Locals brought their own bowls and shared community noodles – quite usual in China.)
written by  shoshtrvls on August 9, 1987 from Shanghai, China

Day 9 (continued)
Nantong, China
Our first stop was Nantong, where Barb and the boys rushed off the boat to buy ice cream and snacks. Afterwards, a few games of black jack and bed.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 9, 1987 from Nantong, China

Zhenjiang, China
While I think we made a stop during the night, our second official stop was early in the morning at Zhenjiang. Again, the cool dudes jumped ship, or maybe they were still sleeping. In any event, during the day we discovered that our choice of conversation partners had expanded; at Nantong, a Japanese businessman and a Young Chinese couple, all three of whom spoke English, had gotten aboard. So, until we arrived in Nanjing (about 1:30), there was more small talk (including comparing the Nanjing bridge to the Golden gate), picture taking and watching old (?) men play Chinese checkers.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 10, 1987 from Zhenjiang, China

Day 10 (continued)
Nanjing, China
When we docked in Nanjing, the cool dudes helped us take our bags to the taxi, which we shared with the Japanese businessman (who was staying at the same hotel -- the Nanjing). We eren't the only ones getting off (needless to say) and found ourselves in a crush of people, bicycles and animals (cats and dogs in cages, soon to be someone's dinner -- ugh!) Our hotel was nice and spacious, but having only one afternoon in Nanjing we merely dumped our bags off and jumped in a cab for the worldwind tour.
Our first stop (which we figured out by matching the characters on our map with those the cab driver had written on his hand) was Zhonghua Gate, an ancient structure, quite tall and several walls thick. There was a nice view from the top -- and we got there just in time as a thunderstorm openned just as we reached the safety of the cab. The next two stops were CAAC and CITS to buy plane tickets out of Nanjing (me to Beijing, Barbara to Hong Kong). From there we drove around the city wall, dating to the Ming Dynasty, and then out to the Sun Yat-Sen Memorial located in the mountains just outside of Nanjing. The memorial, a tomb really, si built into the mountainside and its quite a long climb up many steps to get to the top. I felt like Rocky when I was done.
While the memorial was visually striking, the countryside was even more beautiful, very green and "light" is really the only way to describe it (i.e. thin trees, not firs, etc.) Again, our timing was perfect as it started to rain again on the way home -- still, we insisted that the driver take us through Xuanwu Lake Park -- very pretty but too wet and grey to really tell.
We had dinner with the Japanese businessman at a very good Chinese restaurant in the Jingling Hotel. The businessman obviously enjoyed our company (and told us so), especially since his co-workers are married and he often found himself dining alone. (He was in Nanjing for about a year). What was really funny about this is that there was probably no reason for him to be alone -- the waitress at the restaurant was hitting on him and flirting to such an extent, it was almost comical. I noted that we ate great Chinese food (including eel, which the businessman refused to let us call eel because edible eel has a different name in Japan) and a great vegetable (green) I've never seen before) because it seems in China that most hotels push the Western food on visitors, as if Chinese food would be unacceptable to us.
The Jingling hotel was a spectacle in itself, supposedly the tallest building in China. It has beautiful gardens and the locals stare at it from outside the gates. (The guide boo says that Chinese aren't allowed in). On top is a revolving bar, where we retired to after dinner. Wonderful view of the city and river but, for the first hour we were there, a prime example of the old men-bad band syndrome. Then it was disco -- passable dancing as well. (The Chinese have two dance styles -a VERY stiff waltz and then "disco" which is so bad -- the jump around the floor like John Travolta robots gone haywire). After a few drinks we went back t our hotel, I to bed and Barbara and the businessman to more drinking.
Two quick notes: First, everywhere you go in China there are suggestion forms and books asking you to comment on the service. People do write in them -- I wonder if they're read. Second, while Chinese people have the worst teeth I've ever seen, most hotel rooms come equipped with disposable toothbrushes and toothpaste. Interesting, eh? Also, no toilet paper -- carrying your own is a must.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 10, 1987 from Nanjing, China

Beijing, China
I took a cab from the hotel in Nanjing to the airport -- a tiny little place out in the middle of nowhere, reminiscent of the airport in "Casablanca." However, the plane appeared to be of fairly recent vintage and much more "airworthy" than the tiny, boxy thing that left just minutes earlier. The plane ride was not particularly notable except for the free gifts. Minutes after take-off we were handed fans with "CAAC" on the back. Then came the travel wallet (plastic, of course).
I arrived at the Beijing airport and grabbed a cab to the hotel. The scenery was much more interesting than in Shanghai or Nanjing -- large fields, horse-drawn carts, a long straight highway. Since there is no real skyline to Beijing (all buildings are relatively short), it was hard to tell if the cab driver was taking me to a hotel close to the center of town or not.
We eventually got on a freeway (which was also used by the horse carts!) but turned off before anything that looked like the center of town, although a large temple loomed in the distance.
When we started driving through some very depressed streets -- one story boxes built with stone or clay or something, I really began to worry. Then we turned down an alley, or hutong, where the standard of living was even worse! But then, almost out of nowhere, came this hotel. Small and inside pretty average, but from the outside and in the midst of that neighborhood, it seemed absolutely beautiful.
I dropped off my suitcase and took a cab to the CITS office, located in one of the hotels fairly close to the center of town. Unless you were buying train tickets, the place was relatively calm and uncrowded. I bought tickets for the Ming Tombs/Great Wall tour the next day and inquired about tickets to the acrobatics show, at which point the woman pointed out a theater on the map and told me it would take about 1/2 hour to walk there. So off I trotted -- but in the wrong direction! Twenty minutes later I was on ChangAn Avenue (thank god for pinyan). After getting my bearings straight, I decided that the best course of action would be to take in Tianaman Square and the Forbidden Palace first, and then attempt to find the acrobatics hall. So that's what I did.
I walked to the Square and took some pictures but opted out of the museum and Mao's mummified body (just as I had done with Lenin in Red Square).
The Forbidden Palace was really interesting, mostly because of its size and the number of buildings -- they just kept coming and coming. Also, it was my first real view of Chinese architecture -- the Pagoda-like style, painted, multi-layered eaves, and carved figures on top. And all the buildings are painted red (is this a recent development?). Many buddhas and the like -- temple, receiving rooms, another temple, and so forth.
Coming out of the palace on the north side, I crossed the street nad entered Jingian Park, which had a tall hill with a building on top. The climb up the steps was no simple feat, due in large part to the heat and humidity, but the view was marvelous. One could look down over the Forbidden City and all of Beijing. On my way down I was stopped by a Chinese man who wanted to show me a "very famous tree" in the park. It turned out to be a tiny little thing from which someone was hanged -- the last emperor maybe. But then, I'm told, it's not the REAL tree, but one just like it. The REAL tree was chopped down.
I was going to walk back through the city but being incredibly tired I grabbed a quick cab to the Beijing Hotel for a cold coke.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 11, 1987 from Beijing, China

Beijing, China
After regaining my strength, I set off through Tianamen Square to find the acrobatics hall. I stopped to buy orange sodas often during the day (usually 40 fen, with a 10-20 return on the bottle). The street to the south of the Square was interesting enough, really just a lot of shops selling various things, but because I wasn't really used to navigating the hutongs with the map, I overshot my destination considerably. I walked back through one of the hutongs parallel to the main street -- much more interesting -- narrow, dirty, very real. I finally found the acrobatics hall, purchased a ticket, and then debated how to spend the intervening two hours. When I realized that I was extremely close to one of the recommended Peking Duck restaurants ("Is that No. 41 on the [Lonely Planet] map?" I was asked later in the evening -- a popular guide book and destination), I decided to try my luck.
The place was crowded but not too crowded. Mostly Chinese with a few westerners. The way to get a seat was to stand behind someone until they were done. You then had about two seconds to site down before someone else did. I got lucky and rather quickly a table opened up with just one vacant seat. Even better, one of the diners was a Chinese man (there with his wife and daughter) who had just returned from two years at Brandeis in Boston! So we talked about traveling, the difference in cultures, etc. The duck was excellent. Served with pancakes, hoisin sauce and onions, it is to be eaten like mooshu pork, i.e. rolled into a burrito-like pouch.
After dinner I headed back to the acrobatics hall. There were very few Chinese in attendance -- mostly westerners and Japanese tour groups. (In fact, I had met several of the westerners earlier in the day in the hutongs, duck restaurant, etc.) The show was great. Mistakes were made, but all in all quite interesting. There were several different acts ranging from magic to juggling to balancing. Quite a spectacle lasting about two hours.
Following the show I took a bicycle rickshaw back to the Beijing Hotel where a drunk Texan kept trying to get me to dance with him. His friend was a lawyer and we had a fairly interesting conversation, but the drunk one kept interfering. I finally got up, walked around a bit and then sat down with a group of Austrians who had come to China as part of a Youth Council delegation. They were nice enough but somewhat boring. I got back to my hotel at about 10:30 (very late Chinese time) and tried in vain to arrange for a taxi the following morning to take me to the Beijing -Toronto Hotel where the Great Wall tour met. I finally gave up and went to bed.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 11, 1987 from Beijing, China

Beijing, China
Up at seven, it was no problem getting a cab -- two were waiting right in front of the hotel. The real problem came in explaining where I wanted to go. It was printed on the ticket but rather smudged and the hotel wasn't listed on any map. All I knew was that it was near the Friendship Store. That was important since the cab driver turned the other way on Chang An. When I told him to turn around he finally realized where we were going. The hotel wasn't on the maps because it was obviously very new -- chrome and glass type decor. I was early so I sat in the coffee shop and had a real cup of coffee (no Nescafe!) and read "China Daily," the English language newspaper and propaganda sheet.
Finally it was eight a.m. and time to board the bus. We made two stops, the first to pick up an overly made-up woman apparently from Hong Kong at the Sheraton Great Wall. The hotel looked quite nice but was rather far out of town. (I read somewhere that they have shuttle buses but the distance still seems like a problem tot me). The second stop was to change buses and consolidate with another load from (apparently) the Holiday Inn (REALLY far out of town).
The ride to the Ming Tombs was about an hour long. I sat next to an American, a man about forty years old, who ran an American school in Malaysia. For the summer break he had taken the train from Belgium through Poland, Russia and China. He was very good looking and intelligent, but married as well, C'est la vie.
Our first stop was on the road leading to the tombs, which is lined with stone sculptures of animals and then men. We stayed there for 1/2 an hour, not quite long enough to walk back to the gate where, according to our guide, the biggest stone turtle in China is housed.
We then continued on to the tombs. While the grounds were pleasant enough, the actual tombs were just as boring as the guidebook predicted. You walk down flights and flights of stairs to see absolutely nothing. Added to this was our tour guide -- an obnoxious man who repeated everything several times but was still unintelligible. Furthermore, he was into audience participation and kept trying to get us to answer questions ("So does anybody know what the emperor's favorite number was? Anybody? The emperor's favorite number? Do you know?") God, he was awful.
After an hour we got back on the bus. A half-hour later we stopped for lunch. Where we stopped was a small townhouse only attraction was obviously this tourist restaurant -- it was exactly like the place you stop to eat on the tour from Moscow to Zagorsk. The meal was pretty dull except for Paul, an adorable five year old (?) from Hong Kong traveling with his "mum" -- they were English and her husband (not on the trip) worked for Shell.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 12, 1987 from Beijing, China

Badalingzhen, China
Another half-hour and we were at the Great Wall. The drive itself was beautiful -- luscious green mountains, spectacular scenery. The road parallels the train tracks from Russia -- it must be a magnificent trip. Arrivig at the Wall is another thing entirely -- thousands and thousands of tourists and all the accompanying tee shirt and gift shops. Still, the Wall itself is really amazing as it snakes up and down the crest of the mountain range. You can climb either to the left or the right -- quite a trek to the top. It's very steep in parts, people sliding all over. but the climb was well worth it -- the view and the majesty of it all was really overwhelming. Apparently you can continue on -- fewer tourists and the Wall not yet restored in some parts but I was definitely too tired (and running short of time). So Paul, his mum, and I headed back down for some souvenir tee shirts and cold coke.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 12, 1987 from Badalingzhen, China

The ride back to Beijing was about two hours, during which everyone slept. From the Beijing-Toronto Hotel, I again journeyed to the Beijing Hotel for a coke in the lobby - a definite gather place for tourists from all over. There I met two Stanford B-School grads who were traveling for the summer and had just arrived in Beijing. We talked for a bit and they pointed out a nearby Opera Hall on the map. So my evening plans were set. I walked up Wangfiying (?) street and easily found the theater in a little alley to the right. I bought my ticket and began the search for dinner, eventually finding a long row of food stalls. Everything was only 20 fen and very good -- I had egg rolls, skewered meat (hopefully port and not cat) and a few other things as well. This was a definite find.
The opera was something else. There were three acts (three separate stories) with an intermission after the second. The first had three male characters who, I think, were fighting over a woman. The second was three women, one requiring forgiveness from another, with the third acting as an intermediary. The third act was the best with incredible costumes and acrobatics (and of course I ran out of film). This one seemed to be about two warring armies and about twenty to thirty actors were involved.
Peking opera is really different. The music is loud banging on traditional instruments (discovery of my earplugs from the bar exam was really welcomed) with only a few semi-melodic passages played on stringed instruments. What little actual singing there is is a high-pitched whine. Mostly though the actors talk or simply mime. Much of it is really acrobatics and sword fights. The costumes and makeup are stunning and a lot of posing goes on. It was definitely an event I'm glad I saw.
After the show I attempted to walk home but when I arrived at the Overseas Chinese Hotel rather than the Beijing Overseas Chinese Hotel, I realized that the hotel was just too far and so I grabbed a cab home.

My last day in Beijing, I set out early for the Lama Temple, only two blocks away. However, I was a little too early as the temple didn't open until 9 a.m. (as opposed to the guide book hour of 8:30 a.m.) Many people gathered at the entrance -- one old woman wanted to touch my leg and boots to see what they felt like. Finally the temple opened. As the guide book stated, it was certainly the most beautiful temple I saw. Much larger than I expected, the architecture and idols were really fascinating, as were the many monks, both young and old, who were everywhere. Another interesting feature was the tapestries, all very intricate and beautiful, something I hadn't seen before.
My next destination was the Temple of Heaven on the other side of the city -- a one bus trip according to the map. So I waited for the 116 to arrive, which it did. Along with several other people I jammed myself into the crowded bus and handed the woman ten fen -- apparently enough. The bus ride seemed to take forever, due in part to a large traffic jam around Chang An. Eventually, I showed the woman where I wanted to go on the map, and she told me where to get off.
The Temple of Heaven is situated in a large park. Inside, people slept on benches, practiced various forms of martial arts (one with a stick, another "boxing") and attended various sideshows - everything from motorcycle stunts to mini-zoos to acrobatics shows. The Temple itself was, well, another temple, by now a rather uninteresting sight. It was a long walk and I was hoping to find a cab at the exit but no such luck, so I began walking and walking and ... finally, I decided to try the bus system again - a little trickier as it required two buses to get back to the Beijing Hotel but I was helped by two very nice women, one of whom spoke very good English. I had lunch at the hotel and while I'm sure I had plenty of time to grab a cab out to the summer palace (very beautiful in the pictures) or walk to Bahai Park, I decided to rest my weary eet and hang out at the hotel all afternoon, a decision I now somewhat regret, especially since I didn't meet anyone interesting to talk to.
Several hours later I caught a cab to the airport (stopping at my hotel to pick up my luggage) and was soon on my way back to Shanghai.
Beijing was very different from Shanghai. While it didn't look as European, there were many more westerners in the city. The lifestyle seemed quite different, somewhat poorer in the outlying areas, definitely more agrarian in the area around the city and in the heart, somehow cheaper, not as real, a little flashy. There was also little or no hanging laundry, quite different from Shanghai.

The plane arrived in Shanghai around 11 p.m. and I hopped into the sorriest little cab for the ride to the Peace Hotel. My room was in the older building - the bathroom was not the cleanest but the room had wood paneling, high ceilings, definitely 1930's elegance. I promptly fell asleep.
A few thoughts on China in general. Throughout China I saw only one beggar, although there were several dirty children near the Great Wall and a couple of three card monte, chinese-style, artists. However, you couldn't walk around for five minutes without being accosted by black marketers wanting to change money. People spit everywhere, quite loudly, and say by squatting, often with legs spread wide.

I started the day by taking a walk down the Bund, a few side streets and ending up at the Friendship Store, where I promptly bought some bottled water for the boat trip. Then it was back to the Peace Hotel before I put on my pack and headed for the boat dock. It was a fair walk, quite interesting to walk along the Harbor and the area around the Shanghai Mansions.
The waiting room was up several flights of stairs and very warm. I ran into Claus there (who I had met when I first bought the tickets) and met some other fellow travelers -- Americans who taught English in northern China. Finally it was through customs and another long walk to the boat.
Not quite the "love boat," but a real cruise ship (Hoboken, 1957). The cabin was better than expected, really quite nice, private bath. There was even a swimming pool (dubbed the goldfish bowl by a fellow passenger).
While there were quite a few Hong Kong Chinese aboard, most were westerners on their way either home or to Thailand. Across the hall from me resided Andy, an engineer from New York on his way home after traveling through Thailand and China. I also met a Young couple from California teaching English in Beijing -- he was in the midst of applying to law schools, including Hastings, so we talked for a while. Then came a survey of the ship and dinner, where I met another couple -- she was Belgian, he was getting his doctorate in Belgium but was from New York. The two of them, Claus and I spent most of the time together for the rest of the trip -- eating meals, playing cards, sharing books.

Days 15 & 16
Not really coming to you from Hong Kong, but rather the ship, on the way to Hong Kong.
After trading CITS horror stories (of which I had non but then again I wasn't on the budget plan), there's not much else to do but read, sleep, play cards and eat (and write in this journal). Quite relaxing -- its really great meeting all these fellow travelers and sharing stories and tips. Now, if they could shorten the trip to 1 day ...
Another problem is, of course, hearing about everything you missed or didn't have time for, like the Moscow-Beijing train ride or the boat from Chung King to Wuhan, which was supposed to be beautiful (as opposed to our wasted day going from Shanghai to Nanjing), or things you won't have time for -- southern Thailand, Kathmandu to Lhasa, etc. Spending lots of time in just one country is obviously the solution, but there's just so much to see in the world. Unlike most people on this boat, I won't be traveling for six months or a year -- I have to pick the major spots. By the same token, until you get someplace you don't really know what those are, ie which part of the Yangtze is worth seeing. But, while I have some regrets (my obsessive personality -- I want to see everything), I'm glad I saw what I did -- a taste is better than nothing at all (better to have loved and lost theory of life).
Breakdancing -- the last evening on the boat, they planned a "disco." I missed most of it (there was a guy singing and a fan dance apparently) but I did catch a few minutes of the soon-to-be law student breakdancing! That really gave everyone a thrill.

I awoke around 6:30 - 7:00, thinking we'd be docking any minute. Well, we were near Hong King -- near Aberdeen, but we had to wait outside the shipping lanes for a while (during which they served breakfast) and then we "docked" in the middle of the Harbor, i.e. we dropped anchor and a ferry and dock came out to get us.
We got off the ferry somewhat north o Ocean Terminal; I and two others took the wrong bus but finally got it together and got to our respective abodes -- I finally checked into the Y (no tub!) around 11:30. Then, walking around I ran into Claus; we window shopped all afternoon and then met up again for dinner -- Mexican in Hong Kong (and not too bad). Then we met Jimmy and his girlfriend (the New Yorker and Belgian) and headed to Ned Kelly's, an Aussie bar with a great jazz band. First it was just the four from the boat, then another couple, then a foursome, etc. -- it was great. I kept thinking that these were really terrific times: interesting people in interesting places, the best of times so to speak.

Another day in Hong Kong. First I went to the wireless office and called dad and steph -- we talked for about 15-20 minutes, then I dropped off my first six rolls of film. From there I took the subway (very clean, fast and clear) to Wong Tai Sin Temple. Fairly new, but good architecture and nice gardens. the really interesting part, however, was all the fortune-telling stalls outside. The tellers would read almost anything -- sticks, palms, faces, horoscopes.
From there I went to Lei Chen Uk Tomb, a tomb dating back to the Han Dynasty. Finding it was rather difficult. I walked around for a while -- even people who lived in the area didn't seem to know where it was, and then I discovered why -- talk about a hole in the wall! It was a tiny building which housed info about the Han Dynasty -- agriculture, etc. (pretty advanced) and some artifacts. The tomb itself was the size of my steamer trunk and all you could do was look inside at the bricks through glass! Somewhat of a waste, but walking around the neighborhood (outdoor markets, etc.) was new.
Anyway, from there I went to Hong Kong Island.

August 18 (continued)
Hong Kong, Hong Kong
The Tiger Balm Gardens was my destination on Hong Kong Island. As the book warned, this was really the tackiest, gaudiest thing I'd ever seen -- and worth the trip because of it. Plaster sculptures of animals and deities painted Bright colors -- aqua, green, yellow. It was really revolting.
Then it was back to Central, where I walked through the gleaming office building arcades. I bought a pair of shorts (28" waist!!) and then back to the hotel. I took public transportation all day -- subway, buses, ferries. I walked a lot (because I often couldn't find my stop or I missed it, i.e. Tiger Balm Gardens). It was a good way to see Hong Kong.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 18, 1987 from Hong Kong, Hong Kong

August 18 (continued)
Back in Kowloon, I picked up my photos (no indoor pictures came out though -- I later discovered that my ISO had accidentally slipped from 100 ASA to 1,000! I hope that was the problem and therefore is now fixed. Also I exposed my first Beijing roll -- no Forbidden Palace). I picked up my new, cool eyeglasses ordered the day before (terrific machine which could tell your prescription, contacts in or out, just by having you focus) and walked through the Peninsula Hotel -- what a snooty bunch!
I had dinner at a place called Lindy's -- very classy (and I was wearing shorts!) but a great pepper steak and good wine -- Hirshfield prints on the walls a la Sardi's, and I began wishing I was Nina Hirshfield with my name all over the world.
fter, I, Claus, and 2 Swedish girls he knew and ran into, Jimmy and his girlfriend went to Rick's Cafe for drinks -- pretty dead (were were told there was live music every night -- not true). We left rather early and said our (forever) farewells.

A pretty nothing morning spent just hanging about Kowloon, window shopping, real shopping, etc.

Bangkok, Thailand
I took the afternoon plane to Bangkok, a taxi to the Royal Hotel, and went to bed. It was really a wasted day -- I should have gone to the beach or Aberdeen or something but just didn't feel like it.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 19, 1987 from Bangkok, Thailand

Bangkok, Thailand
I woke early and grabbed a cab to the Hilton to meet Marc. At first, I thought about not going as the Hilton, it turned out, was way out on the outskirts of town, a good 45 minute cab ride and besides Marc had been unsure of when he would get to Bangkok. In other words, did I really want to waste half the morning on the chance of meeting Marc? Eventually, I decided to go and I'm really glad I did.
Marc did show up, looking like a real hippie traveler in baggy white drawstring pants and white sleeveless tea shirt. After a long hug and a trip to the Bank of America conveniently located right next door, we hopped on a bus (2 baht) to Jim Thompson's House, a tourist sight/site that came highly recommended to both of us. First, however, we stopped for breakfast -- I had Chinese style, Marc had Western. Then it was down an alley to this house which, while interesting, was hardly the great sight/attraction I had heard about. A lot of interesting Thai and Burmese art and artifacts, but that's about all. Really, the most interesting thing was the view across the canal - your basic Bangkok residential area -- wooden homes along the canal, the obligatory hanging laundry, kids running about, etc. Marc bought his fortune and we bought a postcard for Tom.
From there, Marc wanted to find a tailor to have some suits made -- the girl at the Jim Thompson's house told us about a large shopping area within walking distance but somehow we got trapped by a tout and ended up walking up and down the street going to his "recommended" tailors. We finally got rid of him and hailed a tuk-tuk to the Royal Hotel so I could buy my voucher for the previous night's room. Lo and behold, there was a tailor in the hotel so Marc had his measurements taken, picked some fabrics and styles and ordered two suits.
Next we decided to strike out for Wat Po. I thought about changing to long pants (I was in shorts) but Marc said not to worry, none of the Wats were strict about proper attire. Well, first, in an attempt to find lunch, we walked through a bazaar along the canal between the hotel and the temple. It was interesting -- people selling everything from hammers to videos (pirated, of course). Unfortunately, the only food in the bazaar was pre-cooked. We finally found a restaurant, relatively clean, and ate.
We then hailed a taxi to Wat Po where, surprise!, no shorts allowed. A little upset, I thought we'd just walk over to the main street and I'd pick up a sarong. Well, no such luck -- the nearby street was basically a food market, but what a find! Barrels of spices, garlic cloves separated by size, a fish warehouse, stalls with wandering around, an apothocary shop circa 1930's with large bottles of medicines, etc.
Eventually we got kicked out of the fish warehouse because Marc was climbing around looking for good photo angles. Our jaunt ended, we rushed back to the hotel so I could put on a pair of pants. It was either at this point or during the earlier stop that I received a note that Barb hd left for me over a week earlier! Basically, she gave me advise which I really didn't need -- where the banks were, how to pay for the room, etc., and also set out the plans she had made for us to go to Northern Thailand. I was slightly pissed but realized that it had been done with only (?) the best intentions.
Anyway, Marc and I got back to Wat Po around 4 p.m. and hired a guide who spoke very good English and explained everything quite well. There were several interesting things about the temple. First, I was amazed that they allowed peddlers onto the grounds, for Marc and I were constantly besieged by people selling embroideries, rubbings and the like. Secondly, we were told about Rama IV of "The King & I" -- which apparently banned in Thailand (as is the song "One Night In Bangkok"). I also learned about buying birds just to set them free (merit-making) and got a sample massage (another peddler trying to sell his services). Interestingly, the statues had European pants on them, the Marco Polo influence.
But the really amazing thing was the reclining Buddha -- it was so enormous that I didn't even realize I was looking at it until I recognized the crook of the elbow. It was even too big to photograph. By the time the guide took us to the bat (main hall) it was 5 p.m. -- closing time because the monks pray at 5. But instead of being kicked out, we were allowed to sit in the back and listen to the chanting. It was quite beautiful -- very melodic, not at all like the monotone chanting I expected.
From Wat Po, Marc and I went back to my hotel. No sooner did we get into the room then the phone began to ring -- it was Avi, recently arrived from San Francisco. Marc and I met him in the lobby and shared a beer, and we attempted to make dinner plans which would include Barb and Mercer (Avi's friend), neither of whom was present. We decide to meet later that evening. Marc went to his hotel to change while Avi went to take a nap. I think I did the same (I don't remember). Eventually Marc returned and promptly fell asleep on my bed. Barb finally showed up and the troops (less Marc) plus a guy Barb had met named Sath (Thai, but owned a restaurant and living in France?) headed for the red light district -- Pat Pong Road. Just walking down the street was a trip -- the touts advertising their "f...cking shows" -- they even had cards printed up listing the various acts -- "pussy opening bottle," etc. Avi kept insisting that there was good seafood restaurants nearby, but eventually we settled on a mediocre place -- everyone had Thai food but Avi, who ordered a cheeseburger.
After dinner, Avi and Mercer went to see a f...cking show while Sath took Barb and I to a really nice disco/bar called the Rome Club -- Sath apparently knew the owner. there was, of course, one catch -- it was a gay bar. But the music was good -- we all danced and I left around 12:30, apparently just before the drag show.
When I got back to my room. Marc was still asleep on the bed. What to do? Well, nothing. Absolutely nothing happened at all.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 20, 1987 from Bangkok, Thailand

Bangkok, Thailand
Still no action (or sign) from Marc, I got up and showered, he did the same. We grabbed a quick breakfast at the hotel and then went to Marc's guest house so he could get his camera. It was much cleaner than I expected and the people were friendly.
Our morning sightseeing took us to the Grand Palace, an elaborate enclosed area with many temples and beautiful murals along the walls. There were many interesting sculptures and statues but the highlight was the Emerald Buddha, rather small but set atop a high pedestal and the pedestal was surrounded by many other carvings and icons. Very elaborate and spiritual.
Next we went to Kao San Road for lunch and errands. Kao San Road was near our hotel and the main guest house "drag" - lots of shops which cater to what Lonely Planet calls the "budget traveler." I really liked it because it had a terrific fell to it -- many western travelers experiencing life in southeast asia. In fact, it was on Kao San Road that Marc and I ran into Carole and Judith Fixman on their way to the post office to ship home a package. I don't know why I don't like Carole, but I just feel uncomfortable around her -- maybe because of her relationship with Marc, whatever it may be. At any rate, Marc and I walked a little way longer and then said our goodbyes, and he even promised (again) to fly to LA for my birthday.
I then went back to the hotel to meet Barb and figure out what time to leave for the airport, etc. Since I had a few hours left, I decided to take a walk and, realizing how close the Royal Barge shed was, I set out to see the barges. This involved crossing the river, which had restaurants along its banks, and which provided an interesting view (although I was surprised that I couldn't see Wat Arum). From there I made a left and began walking through a very poor area along the river. At first the road was fairly wide but as I continued along it got much more narrow and in fact became basically a wooden path built over what was, in essence, a sewer. And the area became poorer and poorer, if that was possible. I would have thought I was lost if it weren't for the signs -- "Royal Barges 400m" and then, much more than 100m (I think), "Royal Barges 300m," etc. Along the way, people kept staring at me, saying hello, etc. And there were even what seemed to be small stores selling food. And I kept walking and following the signs. Finally, I reached the barge shed only to find -- no barges! Just empty docks and one or two covers -- elaborate but not necessarily worth the trip, except that the trip was itself worthwhile. But what I want to know is why none of those smiling faces who obviously knew why I was walking through their neighborhood didn't even try to indicate that the barges were not in their shed!
Anyway, I retraced my steps, got lost only once, and passed many children on their way home from school -- all in immaculate uniforms! I couldn't believe it and I wondered (and still do) how they could possibly keep them that clean, or wash them, in that neighborhood. Then came the biggest surprise -- just as I was getting close to a main road, I looked up and was face to face with an elephant! In the middle of Bangkok! There was even a man on top and both of them looked nearly dead. And the kids kept staring a me, not the elephant. Now, where was the elephant going? I can't imagine there being enough room for him, or the wooden path supporting all that weight.
I eventually got back to the hotel without further incident. As usual, Barb was late and having difficulties getting away from Sath. The traffic was a mess -- Barb planned an hour and we made the flight to Chain Mai only due to the incredible traffic-dodging and speed racing by our cab driver. In the end, we were only 10 minutes late -- and Barb apologized profusely, and even bought me a coke?
written by  shoshtrvls on August 21, 1987 from Bangkok, Thailand

Chiang Mai, Thailand
The hotel in Chiang Mai -- the Chiang Mai Plaza, was really nice, very posh and Barb and I sat in the lobby/bar, listening to a pretty good lounge lizare act (Barb even thought it was a record!), drinking and writing in our journals.
Two notes on things I noticed in Bangkok (which also held true for the rest of Thailand). First, all the doorways were raised. At Jim Thompson's House they explained that the raised doorways were to keep out evil spirits. Also, there were little shrines everywhere, usually white with red (a sacred color) smeared all over and flower garlands hanging on it. Interesting.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 21, 1987 from Chiang Mai, Thailand

Chiang Mai, Thailand
This was a tour day, part of the package deal Barbara booked in Bangkok. The morning was spent just outside of Chiang Mai in an area I think is called San Kamphaeng, which is full of various "factories" where they produce hand the made items for which Chiang Mai is famous. However, the tour was just one factory after another where you spent about three minutes watching the craftsman and twenty minutes telling your assigned salesperson that you didn't want to buy anything.
Some of it was interesting though. The first factory produced lacquer and silverware and was definitely the best (they also had the best shop with some very interesting little f...cking dolls and antique buddha I almost bought). Next came the silver factory. What was amazing there was how some of the artisans copied some very intricate designs only by sight. After that was the teak shop, pretty boring after about two seconds of watching someone with an awl. The fourth shop made umbrellas and fans from both paper and silk. The last (finally!) was the silk factory which did hold my attention because the weaving seemed so difficult (but monotonous as well). Barbara bought birds for merit-making.
From there we went to lunch at a Japanese restaurant (!) which was quite pretty and had a couple of monkeys out front. After lunch we began the long, terrifying, but beautiful bus ride up to Doi Suthep, a buddhist temple located on a mountain overlooking Chiang Mail, a city infinitely more appealing than Bangkok. The temple was pretty uninspired except for the view which was quite hazy the day we were there. So we walked around the temple for a while (which you need to take a tram up to) and then looked at some jade factories/shops just below the temple. The bus had a tv in it on which our driver was watching professional wrestling wrestling while waiting for us. Anyway, it took about two hours to get back to Chiang Mai -- everyone slept.
Once we got back to Chiang Mai, Barbara and I made arrangements for a three-day trek to the hill tribes. Summit Tours had been recommended to us but they were closed so we went next door to a place called Galare Travel and hired a guide (the owner) whose nickname was Oot -- the sound a pig makes, he explained. He seemed nice, knowledgeable and trustworthy and so we were set.
We then went back to the hotel for a while and then had dinner at a fairly decent outdoor restaurant where we tried a really interesting banana-like fruit. Afterwards, we walked through the night bazaar for a bit and I began down the path of becoming an international smuggler by buying a supposedly antique wooden Burmese buddha. Antique or not, since the export of ANY buddhas from Thailand is forbidden without government approval, I had taken the first step.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 22, 1987 from Chiang Mai, Thailand

Chiang Rai, Thailand
(The next few posts will appear to be dispatched from Chiang Rai, but we were actually up in the hills north of Chiang Rai).
Fly to Chiang Rai, couldn't get an early plane so took the second flight out with our guide Oot. He bought food (cash me) and we waited in restaurant. then walked a little ways to boat dock -- took long flat motorized boat up the Mai Kok river to Karen Village, a village where various Karens (red, etc.) had come down from the hills to live. from there, on elephant back (elephant name was Me Bunne) up rather steep and muddy hill to a Yao Village. It started to pour just before we arrived. Interesting features -- animals under huts, headdresses like Turbans, jackets with red fur/fringe. Oot's a good cook. Smoke filtered cigarettes through a bamboo bong.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 23, 1987 from Chiang Rai, Thailand

Chiang Rai, Thailand
Walked to forest center, like a tea house. then to a Lahu village -- Jaelae -- to watch a man smoke opium. Had to cross river then to the Mae Sai waterfall and back to the forest center for a long afternoon nap. Then steep hike THROUGH jungle (what Marc calls a Viet Nam experience) to Akha Village called Adu. Two fireplaces, one for tea, "people" the other for drying meats, etc. Had to pass through gate - evil spirits. Children spoke English and French, sang row, row, row your boat adn Frere Jacques. They sang for us after dinner (Oot gave candy) and we taught them 99 bottles of beer (starting with 10). then massages -- different style than Yao -- into coins and silver.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 24, 1987 from Chiang Rai, Thailand

Chiang Mai, Thailand
Walked down to Thai Village then bus to Chiang Rai airport. Flew to Chiang Mai. I spent all afternoon in airport (didn't feel like going out). Barb went into Chiang Mai with Oot (twice) to see temples and have dinner, which she said was totally flooded.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 25, 1987 from Chiang Mai, Thailand

Then we flew to Bangkok and stayed at the airport hotel.

Calcutta, India
Flew to Calcutta. Tried to leave immediately for Varanesi or Kathmandu but too many problems buying ticket. horrible airport. decided to stay one night. took cab to Oberoi Grand, being rebuilt so not worth the money. Had 3 different rooms (1st noisy, second not as nice). city flooded, changed flight. got manicures, dancing show, sat in bar. Saw first cows.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 26, 1987 from Calcutta, India

Calcutta, India
Took cab to Mother Teresa's house and orphanage. but opted out of viewing home for destitute (which is what all of Calcutta seemed like). Drive past Victory Memorial and then to airport. Got all the way thought customs then flight canceled. They put us up in airport hotel (2 rooms) -- lousy -- but met interesting Indian couple.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 27, 1987 from Calcutta, India

Kathmandu, Nepal
Finally flew to Kathmandu, checked into Potala Guest House. Walked Durbar Square. Looked at other guest houses. Had a coke at a restaurant overlooking Kathmandu Guest House. Did laundry. Ate lunch at Il Cimbeli pizza and dinner at Tibet's Kitchen.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 28, 1987 from Kathmandu, Nepal

Dakshinkali, Nepal
Changed hotels to Tibet Guest House and took morning tour to see animal sacrifices at Dakshinkali, then to monastery and gorge (and another temple with sacrifices) then got off bus to follow line of women in red waiting to go into temple to pray and bathe for Teej Festival. Very hot. Met Don Gittleson on tour -- American living in Honduras.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 29, 1987 from Dakshinkali, Nepal

Kathmandu, Nepal
Lunch at KC's, then spent afternoon making Chitwan arrangements and looking at Don's purchases. Barb sick -- I had dinner at Pizzamaya. (goats, carry on heads, small Teej groups).
written by  shoshtrvls on August 29, 1987 from Kathmandu, Nepal

Bharatpur, Nepal
Drove to Chitwan National Park with Suzanne, older woman from Belgium. Saw monkey on way. Great for French. Long drive (rained) then by oz cart, but very scenic, stayed at Jungle Safari Camp. That afternoon, walked through Tharu village -- headdresses like Yao, food like French (escargot and frog legs). watched a man make fish net.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 30, 1987 from Bharatpur, Nepal

Bharatpur, Nepal
Early morning went on elephant safari thought jungle. Saw only rhinos (7) and possibly a small monkey, but sense jungle was interesting in itself. Then breakfast and very short canoe ride -- saw 2 crocodiles -- and on a short walk saw 3 more rhinos. Walked back with Canadian named Bob (guide, whose name I can't remember, was upset I didn't take Ox cart) and had drink with him and an English girl named Margaret Allen at their place -- the Holiday Inn. We then had lunch and a nap during which 5 more people arrived and I played Agatha Christie, correctly identifying the OB/GYN (from Walnut Creek) and his blond wife. We then took our "jungle walk" - watched rhino from raised blind and stalked spotted deer. A dutch tour group arrived and we all had dinner.
written by  shoshtrvls on August 31, 1987 from Bharatpur, Nepal

Bharatpur, Nepal
AM birdwatching with the doctor and his wife, and visit to musuem. Some interesting animal facts. Then drove to Pokhara, stopping for picnic lunch along the way.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 1, 1987 from Bharatpur, Nepal

Pokhara, Nepal
Checked into the Kantipur Guest House and made trekking arrangements and flight back to Kathmandu. Walked to airport and New Crystal Hotel. Began to pour. Ate at Guest House. Met Dean and Oliver, fellow trekkers. Then to German Bakery -- Dean was there and we talked about traveling, China, etc.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 1, 1987 from Pokhara, Nepal

Pokhara, Nepal
Leave for trek with our guide, Chandra. Long flat walk through populated area along river (Brahman People) -- lunch at Eden Lodge in Suikhet. Then long steep climb (but well-marked path unlike Thailand) to Dhampus Pass -- top of mountain. Stayed at Sunrise Lodge. Dean and Oliver were there. Had dinner.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 2, 1987 from Pokhara, Nepal

Pokhara, Nepal
Woke up sick. Climbed to Kaare for lunch -- leeches everywhere so couldn't stop. Path not as well marked. Our porter (Gahli) waited for me.. Meadow at top. Took shortcut to Kaare. Then easy walk to Nagadanda for eve. Beautiful view o the Himalayas, especially the next morning.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 3, 1987 from Pokhara, Nepal

Walked to Sanaogkot (?) for lunch. Walked down. Almost like Lombard Street -- very crooked. Then to Pokhara. Diner at Mona Lia. Saw cute guy, decided we wanted to meet him. Had brownie at hotel. All in all, trek not nearly as interesting as Thailand. Good views but people not as interesting.

Kathmandu, Nepal
Fly to Kathmandu. Met guy from NY -- Patrick. shared cab to guest house. got flat tire. Had breakfast with Patrick at his guest house (right next door). Ran errand.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 5, 1987 from Kathmandu, Nepal

Bhaktapur, Nepal
Went to Baktipur with Patrick, discussing jurisdiction on the bus, where we ran into Margaret. Went to museum full of Hindu art.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 5, 1987 from Bhaktapur, Nepal

Took bus back to Kathmandu (and got ANOTHER flat tire). Dinner at KC's and then beer at Patrick's.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 5, 1987 from Kathmandu, Nepal

With Patrick. Saw the open Buddha for Indrajata. Walked around Kathmandu, then planted ourselves on stupa in Durbar Square to watch paraded Kumari - Indrajata Festival. Waited a long time. Very slow. First demon, then nothing. Then band, then nothing, etc. Men were separated from women -- many people. Police protected the Westerners. Never thought we'd make our plane. All on stupa, interesting clothing, etc. Finally diplomats arrived and King's brother (King out of town). Finally chariots came out -- couldn't get them around the corners! Cleared out quickly. Said good-bye to Patrick (and Margaret, who we also saw). Taxi driver gave us lesson in Nepalese politics.
Flew to Delhi -- Hans Plaza hotel.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 6, 1987 from Kathmandu, Nepal

New Delhi, India
Walked around Delhi, got shoe shine, made travel arrangements. To underground. Palika Bazaar and Cannaught Place. Lunch at Narula's and then to the Red Fort. Rivers through fort, inlay, and drove by Mosque. Then room service.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 7, 1987 from New Delhi, India

Agra, India
Bus tour to Agra. Very hot. Taj mahal -- inlay (pieta dor) with stones, gems, marble factory, Agra fort and mosque. Return to Delhi.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 8, 1987 from Agra, India

New Delhi, India
New Dehli, India overnight.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 8, 1987 from New Delhi, India

Srinagar, India
Fly to Srinigar. Houseboat on Nagin Lake, New Zenith, Shikara around lake then tour of old city. Two very interesting mosques and carpet factory.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 9, 1987 from Srinagar, India

Sonamarg, India
Drive to Sonamarg. Ponies to Glacier. Very pretty. Met couple from Santa Barbara.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 10, 1987 from Sonamarg, India

Srinagar, India
At 5 a.m., took a shikara to the floating market, went carpet shopping, then flight to Delhi.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 11, 1987 from Srinagar, India

New Delhi, India
Dinner and Nirula's and overnight only.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 11, 1987 from New Delhi, India

London, United Kingdom
Just a change of planes on our way to Spain.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 12, 1987 from London, United Kingdom

Madrid, Spain
Flew to Madrid and met mom at the airport. We got the car and drove to the hotel (Gran Hotel Victoria) at Plaza Angel. Walked around Madrid -- grand Via, Puerto del Sol, Plaza Santa Ana. Dinner at Pazo de Monterrey.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 12, 1987 from Madrid, Spain

Madrid, Spain
Waled to the Prado and the Picasso Annex to see the Guernica. Lunch at THE Ritz hotel, took a siesta (love those siestas), hung at a cafe in the Plaza Santa Ana and ate dinner at a tapas bar near the hotel.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 13, 1987 from Madrid, Spain

Toledo, Spain
Drove to Toledo and visited the Alcazar, Museo de Santa Cruz, a long lunch, found a wonderful antique store -- AVIS ALQUILE UNCOCHE -- where mom bought a menorah and we heard all about Spanish Jewish history and the judaica collection. The place had a mikvah in the basement. (Note -- writing this more than 30 years later, when I took Ellery to Spain in 2001, I again found this store and purchased another piece of judaica from the same collection -- 25 years later!).
We went to the Synagogue de Santa Maria la Blanca, Santa Tome Cathedral (where the El Greco painting "Burial de Conte Orgaz" is), the Santa Iglesia Cathedral Primada.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 14, 1987 from Toledo, Spain

Cuenca, Spain
Drove to Cuenca and saw the hanging houses from a footbridge. Dinner there and back to Madrid.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 14, 1987 from Cuenca, Spain

Avila de los Caballeros, Spain
First to Avila to see the cathedral and the walls, lunch at Meson el Rastro.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 15, 1987 from Avila de los Caballeros, Spain

Segovia, Spain
After Avila, we drove to Segovia and checked into the Parador, a new one, and relaxed at the pool. Then we went into town and saw the aquaduct, cathedral, alcazar from Camelot (a la Price Charming) and had dinner at Plaza de Franco.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 15, 1987 from Segovia, Spain

Soria, Spain
Just a stop on the way to Barcelona, but worthy of a mention because it's a shit little town where we had a horrible lunch.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 16, 1987 from Soria, Spain

Barcelona, Spain
We arrived in Barcelona and are staying at th Hotel Gran Via. Dinner was pizza at Il Villagio.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 16, 1987 from Barcelona, Spain

Barcelona, Spain
We visited Montjuich, the Miro Foundation, Museo de Arte Cataluna, took a cab (great driver) to the Fort, along the port to Parque Zoologique, walked up Las Ramblas, Bario Botic, bookstalls, to Restaurant Lluria for dinner.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 17, 1987 from Barcelona, Spain

Barcelona, Spain
Today was the Picasso Museum, a walk through the gothic quarter and Cathedral, to Plaza de Catalunya, bought a briefcase (before the Plaza), taxi to Barcelonetta for lunch, to Bernice's hotel, walk down Pg de Garcia and past the Gaudi building. Diner at Il Villagio again.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 18, 1987 from Barcelona, Spain

Valencia, Spain
Drove from Barcelona to Valencia where we stopped for Paella, which was made and served by a woman who asked if Americans are like in the movies.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 19, 1987 from Valencia, Spain

Alicante, Spain
From Valencia we drove to Alicante, checked into the Hotel Palas, walked around the night market and had dinner.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 19, 1987 from Alicante, Spain

Alicante, Spain
Visited the modern museum and a collector's market -- stamps, movie cards, etc.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 20, 1987 from Alicante, Spain

Day 51 (cont)
Torremolinos, Spain
checked into our hotel in Torremolinos -- the Parador del Golf. Ugh.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 20, 1987 from Torremolinos, Spain

Torremolinos, Spain
Changed to the Hotel Melia and vegitated on the beach. Dinner at a pizza restaurant (why do we keep doing this?) and walked through the tacky town.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 21, 1987 from Torremolinos, Spain

Marbella, Spain
Went to the beach in the morning, and drove to Marbella. Walked around. I bought a cute little green dress that I'm amazed I can wear. Dinner back at the hotel.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 22, 1987 from Marbella, Spain

Sevilla, Spain
We took a tour to Sevilla -- Alcazar, Barrio de Santa Cruz (the Jewish quarter), lunch at a hotel, saw doves in the Parque de Maria Luisa, took a Caleche ride and saw the Plaza de Espana.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 23, 1987 from Sevilla, Spain

Malaga, Spain
Dinner in Malaga with Bernice.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 23, 1987 from Malaga, Spain

Granada, Spain
Went to Granada, saw the Alhambra (lunch at P?) and again back to Malaga for dinner with Bernice.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 24, 1987 from Granada, Spain

Madrid, Spain
We returned to Madrid, ate lunch at the Parador. At dinner at a tapas bar, we ran into Kim Cook.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 25, 1987 from Madrid, Spain

New York, United States
Flight home.
written by  shoshtrvls on September 26, 1987 from New York, United States

Los Angeles, United States
Flight home. Lost rug forever. :-(
written by  shoshtrvls on September 26, 1987 from Los Angeles, United States