Adventures in Teaching and Living in Ecuador - Theresa
Many people ask, "what are your plans after graduation?"
Here's mine: I'm off to Ecuador for half a year to teach English, and have a few adventures along the way.

Two...One...Blastoff
Boston, United States
My last days in the US are now in full swing. With lots of packing, preparing and goodbyes still to come, I don't have too much time. However I thought I should get this going before I left.
Some of you may remember my extensive emails from past travels, but this time around I'm trying out this I guess not so new-fangled blog trend.
I leave in two days, followed by five weeks of TESOL (Teaching English to Speakers of Other Languages) certification, and then a teaching placement in the capitol city of Ecuador--Quito.
Quito is located high in the Andes mountains. I look forward to acclimating both to the altitude in this mountainous region and also to this warm, exciting culture.
Sorry for such a quick hello and goodbye. I will do my best to update this blog as often as possible but please also email me or send other news of your own while I'm away.
I hope this finds you all well. Stay tuned for more info!
written by  Theresa on August 21, 2008 from Boston, United States
from the travel blog: Adventures in Teaching and Living in Ecuador

solo sé que nada sé
Quito, Ecuador
I've been in Quito now for almost a week. The trip down was wicked easy and I only had a 1 day delay for my baggage...not too bad. From my flight, the baggage of about 30 people didn't make it to Quito with us. But all is well now.
I'm living with a warm, welcoming Ecuadorian family which consists of my host mom, Salomé, and host sister, Gisela. They are such good people and I love conversing with them over dinner. Also, by some chance of fate, I made it into this home which happens to be vegetarian. Qué suerte!
This week at my school, Experiment in International Living, I had 4 hours of Spanish class each morning, mostly conversing and going over grammar but also learning about Ecuadorian culture and history. In the afternoons, we had orientation to the city and culture of Quito. The days have been long as we're each getting used to this new routine, but I know that the coming weeks will be even busier.
In my course are 6 other girls, and one lonely boy. But so far we all get along great; I'm glad to have these friends as a local support network.
I'm finally used to the altitude, but it took a few days. The first day I was here, my mom took me to el centro histórico, or the old town. Gorgeous architecture and old cobblestoned streets, but its also quite hilly so I was plenty tired when we returned from that! the air is much thinner here, for sure.
But I'm really enjoying this city so far. What I like best is that basically wherever you are in the city, you can still see a mountain or volcano or other greenery in the distance. Since Quito is in a valley, we are surrounded by glorious vistas. The view from the roof patio of my school is incredible--on a clear day you can see the snow capped volcano Cotopaxi, which is the tallest active volcano in the world!
Cotopaxi after a huge snowstorm (rain in Quito)
Ecuador also is home to Cayambe, which is the only volcano literally on the equator, and Chimborazzo which is technically the highest mountain in the world (when measured from the core). Pretty neat. I hope to be able to visit and hike part of Cotopaxi and other mountains in the area. There is so much to do in Ecuador, it's incredible.
Since most of you probably haven't been to Ecuador, or even heard much about it, I'll try to include some history/culture/interesting facts in each post, as well as some of my own observations.
One new phenomena is that 80% of the time, I'm the tallest person I can see. Okay, 80% is high. Really, I'm not that tall for US standards, but here in Ecuador, the average heights for men and women are much lower. Many men are my height, but few women I see are as tall or taller than I am. I pass by many adults and elderly people who are about chest high on me, but usually shoulder high is the average. It's no big deal, it just makes the hand holds on the buses and trolleys a bit low but perfect for smacking me in the face at a quick stop or turn.
Public transportation is really important here. There are at least three types of buses that run different routes all around the city. There are also 3 trolley lines that run North-South along 3 major roads. The city is organized on a North-South grid in the valley. I live in the Northwest part of the city so have to zigzag my way into the downtown area to reach the main streets. Each morning I walk to the bus stop a few blocks away, then switch to a trolley line which takes me to school. What's funny is that even though I technically live closer to school than some of my classmates, because I'm not as close to the N-S main streets, it takes me a while longer to get to school.
Let's see, what else.
At my house there are 2 dogs, Chiquita and Sultana, who are very friendly but also guard the house. Their domain is the outdoor garden and pathways. We have a very nice yard in our enclosed plot of land. The dogs always stay outside--since the weather is mild here and pretty much the same year-round, it works out well for them. There are also tons of dogs out roaming the streets.
Also in my neighborhood I once saw 3 cows grazing on the grass in the small park area, and also a man going around with 2 goats (my mom says that you can buy milk from him).
I try to stay connected with politics in the US as well as politics here (there is a very important vote coming up on september 28th--and voting is mandatory in Ecuador) but it's hard since for now I have limited access to the internet.
This weekend I hope to enjoy getting to know my city better and figuring out all the cool stuff there is to do.
I'll try to update again when I have a chance, but I know the coming weeks will be long and stressful--at least 10 hour days of classwork and teaching at school, 45-60 minute commute each way, coursework and family time on top of that once I reach home. So we'll see.
But I hope this finds you all well.
Chao!
written by  Theresa on August 29, 2008 from Quito, Ecuador
from the travel blog: Adventures in Teaching and Living in Ecuador

another one bites the dust
Quito, Ecuador
This week was jam packed, but went by so quickly. Each day I was out of the house from about 715 in the morning, until 715ish at night. Long days for sure. Class is going well but it is hard for me to be in the same place for such a long period of time. Luckily, we do have a few breaks where we can move around. There is also a lovely roof patio on the building where I spend most of my free time. It has a great view of Pichincha--the volcano that borders the western side of the city--and on clear mornings even snow capped Cotopaxi is in view in the southeast. Unluckily, there are not many clear days.
Weather in Quito is variable. It is hard to plan for the day because the weather can change frequently and for apparently no reason at all. I believe it was Thursday this week in which I left my house in the morning with a light fleece on, was taking in the hot sun outside around noon, then observed the first real storm I'd seen around five, with intense rain and even a short hail storm. Afterwards it was quite pleasant. There are many microregions for weather patterns in Ecuador. Even just traveling an hour outside the city and the weather can change dramatically. So cool.
Wednesday I had my first English as a foreign language teaching experience. I am one of the teachers for an intermediate english class of about 15 adults. On Wednesday, three of us taught a 40 minute lesson a piece. For monday I must prepare a 65 minute lesson. What I really appreciate about this lesson planning is that there is time built in for lesson planning, brainstorming and preparing in each days schedule. My teaching team has 6 students and one advisor. We all help each other out with creating innovative lessons, preparing materials, giving feedback and practicing anything we need beforehand. It's nice to have this support when it's my turn to teach, but also to be there for the rest of my team. It's wonderful practice. Though this class of adults is outside my usual target audience, I am already learning a lot and enjoying myself.
During my 25 cent commute each way, I have many opportunities to observe the same stretch of the city. I am learning street names better and have a better grasp on the layout of this long and narrow city. I also see many entertaining things if i'm lucky. For instance:
Q: How many pizza hut employees does it take to change a lightbulb?
A: Apparently it takes one on the ladder and at least 15 surrounding him on the sidewalk.
Since I traverse the same route in the city each day, I am beginning to recognize familiar faces on my buses. This morning when my seatmate disembarked, an eager middle-aged man practically leaped out of his own seat to take this empty seat. At first I thought this was a tad creepy. Then I learned the story. Apparently this man, Kevin, sees me on this bus each morning and has been trying to get up the nerve to talk to me because he wants to practice his English. So we had some pleasant conversation and I helped him pronounce a few words of interest to him, which he had listed in a notebook taken out of his makeshift briefcase. I am sure this will be only one of the many of such encounters.
I am glad it is now the weekend so I can relax a little, catch up on much needed sleep, spend some non-academic time with my friends here, and have some adventures.
Sunday our group has a trip planned to visit Papallacta--a collection of natural thermal pools about 1.5 hours outside of Quito. The vegetation and hiking around there are said to be beautiful, but just taking a moment to relax outside in some of nature's hottest hot tubs will be sure to be a highlight of my weekend. Inshallah.
This is all for now. Hope you are all well. =)
written by  Theresa on September 5, 2008 from Quito, Ecuador
from the travel blog: Adventures in Teaching and Living in Ecuador

¡Viva Guápulo!
Quito, Ecuador
What an adventure! Last night I went with my classmates and other friends to the neighborhood of Guápulo in Quito for the celebration of the virgin of Guápulo held in the church plaza. The taxi took us through a winding maze of narrow, steep cobblestoned streets as far as he could and then we walked the rest of the way, following the sound of music. I wouldn't say the hills were alive, but the energy coming from the church plaza was palpable.
Upon first sight, I was overwhelmed. At least a thousand people crowded into this stone courtyard--people of all ages and lifestyles. Many children dressed up as clowns or gorillas joined their parents in the festivities. Other adults dressed as gorillas, cowboys, bulls, conquistadors; others wore masks and carried cages on their backs with live chickens, or in once instance, a teddy bear inside.
Everyone was so excited and full of life. Apparently this entire weekend is a party for this neighborhood as they celebrate their saint's day. Along with the dense crowd, there were dozens of food and drink stands and also a tent that housed a few fooseball tables. On the far end of the plaza a stage was constructed and a band played. With such energy and beats, it was impossible not to dance. And in Ecuador, if there is no dancing, it's not a party!
At one point, the music stopped and a man announced that the vaca loca, the crazy cow, would now be making an appearance. He was right! A man yielding a paper-maché cow spewing fireworks and sparks into the crowd made his way through the mass of people. From a far, this seemed quite hilarious, but as he came closer and the vaca loca starting backfiring, it was a bit more intense. As whole fireworks were shot out of the cow, the crowds were forced to duck rather than be hit. Luckily my friend Laura ducked just in time and missed catching a spiraling firework with her face.
When the cow was partially on fire and out of ammo, he left the scene and the crowd was getting more and more into this new vibe. A crowd of guys moved a 30ft tower into the center of the plaza and soon more fireworks were lighting the dark night sky. Costumed party goers and others like myself joined in the festivities, dancing around this explosive tower, sparks flying everywhere. It was exhilarating! They definitely have a different way of celebrating than I am used to, but I loved to observe and be a part of this cultural experience.
Into the wee hours of the morning (and presumably all night, though I didn't stay for all that time) the music continued and three rounds of firework towers were constructed and set off during my time. Dancing, laughing, running away from the men in bull costumes trying to gore you (in jest, of course, but still slightly painful and awkward), and enjoying the company of friends and hundreds of strangers. That was my night.
It was a night of new things for us all and a way to kick back and enjoy our time together outside of the classroom. Dancing is something that is so integral in Ecuadorian culture that I hadn't experienced yet, though I am sure I will have more practice in the coming weeks and months. I can't wait!
I know this fiesta seems strange and maybe even mythical, but you're just going to have to take my word for it. Like many events and places I go regularly in Ecuador, I don't bring my camera. Just being light skinned and fair haired brings me enough unwanted attention. Of course, it doesn't lead to anything--just me ignoring comments as I walk past or avoiding quizzical looks. No worries. I've got my street smarts. I hope my words are descriptive enough to give you a glimpse of this small part of the culture I have found here thus far.
written by  Theresa on September 7, 2008 from Quito, Ecuador

A Breath of Fresh Air
Mindo, Ecuador
“I am going to unexplored regions, ‘to the land of mist and snow,’ but I shall kill no albatross.”
I read this line from Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein this week and for some reason took quite a liking to it. Though unexplored regions were not on my agenda, a land of mist and clouds was. After my second week of TESOL courses, our group of 8 students and local guide, Jenny, made our way to Mindo--“ the last misty stands of cloud forest on the western Andean slopes” (Lonely Planet).
After a 2-hour bus ride from Quito, we arrived in beautiful and warm Mindo. Our first activity, after getting situated at one of the many hostels in this newly booming eco-tourism hub, was white water tubing. Yes, tubing—not rafting. Six regatas (inner tubes) were tied securely together in the shape of a flower. Five people plus two river guides all piled onto each cluster of tubes. We were given the instructions to hold on tight, lift our feet and lean back if we come upon any rocks (which happens all the time) and to lean forward to avoid being smacked by vines, branches or leaves when nearing the array of flora on either bank of the river.
Though this was only a level 1 rapids river, it was definitely more intense than we’d expected of a tubing adventure. While we had imagined drifting lazily down river in our individual inner tubes, it turned out we were plastered with life vests and helmets and told not to let go of the rope hand holds on either side of our seats (the empty spaces between the tubes).
The guides on my tube cluster were amazing. They never spoke once but always knew what the other was thinking and needed in order to get down river avoiding the huge rocks but still aiming toward the rapids. The water was a nice, cold temperature and I was given a bath a few times over during the numerous tippings to avoid rocks and hit the rapids. Spinning our way down river I was able to watch the tube cluster ahead with some of my other friends. This was particularly hilarious because of the variety of facial expressions. Phil looked as if he were in pain the entire time and I could always hear Colleen’s laugh as water got rough and then smooth again.
I thoroughly enjoyed myself going down the river, conversing with those in my cluster as well as the guide who so helpfully identified these gorgeous flowers hanging from the trees as “flowers.” Lisa and I, who sometimes can’t control our sarcasm, countered by identifying “tree, water, rock” etc and laughing with our guide. He also informed us that the river we were on is the tamest in Mindo. I could’ve gone for a bumpier ride. Next time I’ll have to look into more challenging rapids.
After tubing we visited a butterfly conservation center. This center is for research, education and preservation of the native butterfly species. Along with the natives were also some monarchs who had migrated down for the winter. It is amazing how different all the chrysalises look and how they camouflage into nature, posing as leafs, branches, droplets of water etc. So cool.
In the afternoon we went on a canopy tour—zip lining. This was wicked cool. Not only the speed and freedom you feel while zipping across the valleys and canyons, but the views of the surrounding mountains were incredible. The course was made up of 10 lines, going across various canyons and valleys to give us multiple views and experiences. Some lines were long while others short. My favorite was the “kangaroo” in which the guides at either end pull the lines down to make you bounce up and down as you glide across the open space. Though given tasks to keep you on track and slowing down enough to land, it was hard to concentrate with the amazing greenery surrounding me. During each ride I could feel my mouth agape in pure awe of my surroundings. This is a beautiful ecosystem. On one of the rides I was connected to the instructor in “superman” formation and literally flying across the open space, rather than the usual seated position. Chevere.
That evening we attended a frog concert at the local frog education and research center where we encountered many species of frogs and toads and heard their insistent calls. This center has helped to create a safe environment for the frogs and the number of species to habituate the area has now grown astronomically—from the terrible 2 species 3 years ago to now about 20. Sweet. We were also given a tour of the frog pond, spotting some of the cuties we were hearing. We also were taken into the woods surrounding the area to try and spot more tree frogs but also other common animals to this part. Like the giant cockroach which is at least as long as my hand. Yuck. We also saw some cute snakes and spiders. Another aspect of this environment we learned about is the existence of a micobacteria of a certain type of wood that glows in the dark after exposure to light. It looked so cool.
That was Satuday. It was a long, full day. On Sunday we rose early and set off for the waterfall. There are many waterfalls in Mindo. With our guides, one of whom is a birdwatching and nature guide, we hiked up a wicked steep trail, stopping along the way to learn about native flora and fauna. As well as ascending the slippery, winding trails we also traversed a rock wall (with the aid of a tow rope) to reach the top. Down the road a bit was the entrance to one of the waterfalls in the area, but don’t ask me which. Another 500 meters down, around, up and down again, across a wobbly two plank bridge to reach the other side of the river and we were there. The waterfall was beautiful and the water nice and crisp.
One of the motivations in coming here (other than the refreshing hike and splendid natural surroundings) was this waterfall and a lovely ledge from which to jump.
casada from which i jumped
Upon arriving, the door opening the path between the rickety ladder to climb back up from below was closed. And we were bummed. Though most, after seeing the distance had changed their minds, Phil and I were still trying to find a way to fit this experience in. Luckily our guide inquired multiple times on our behalf and had the door/ladder opened. While we prepared to jump, the other girls were repelling down rocks alongside the waterfall to jump from the 20ft rock into the churning water below. It looked cool, but we were set on this jump. Phil was the first daredevil of the day and jumped nearly three quarters the way across the river at the base of the waterfall. I was warned not to jump quite that far out. So off I went, plunging down the approx. 50 feet to the deliciously chill water below. Such a rush! Carried down river by the force of the waterfalls, I quickly reached the shallow bank and the built in ladder straight up the cliff. Once I reached the ladder I climbed right back up to go again. It was so much fun.
Unfortunately when I arrived at the top, bad news awaited me. Phil had accidentally kicked my camera case (including extra gig memory card) over the edge. He then jumped down after it, to try to locate it, and I joined. A good jump again, but not quite the same great feeling now that I was on a search and rescue mission. Or should I say a failed search and rescue mission. My case is long gone. But at least my camera was not inside; it was being used to document all these water adventures. So sometime I should be able to get a few photos up.
This hike was definitely my highlight for the weekend. The entire weekend was incredible though. I was just so thankful to be outside in nature again, away from the bustle of the city and pollution from the cars and buses. The pollution in the city is terrible. To be able to breathe again in Mindo was incredible. To walk around and enjoy every moment, bliss. But of course, we couldn’t walk everywhere. Our favorite alternate mode of transportation was by truck. Our guides would roll up in their white pickup and we’d all pile in the bed, holding on to the guard rails for balance as we zipped down the streets. Swerving to and fro to dodge pot holes, man holes, dogs, cars, people, etc we were given a full body workout trying to stay upright. We were also kept on our toes because as we swerved to avoid an obstacle we’d go right into the tree line and usually we ducked in time to miss serious damage. The fresh air during these travels, the great views and the constant entertainment were thrilling. Though we did learn that if you applied bug spray with DEET before getting into the truck, you were more likely to disembark with some of the paint on your body rather than on the truck. A small price to pay, really. Bug spray was entirely necessary. And even though I practically bathed in it over and over again, I was still eaten alive. Laura and I have welts all over our legs from massive amounts of bug bites. Jenny has a trail of bites down her left arm. Everyone else came out fine—protected by those of us who weren’t as lucky. =( But this is nothing new—I’ve always been devoured by biting bugs. Oh well. As long as the itchiness and swelling goes down soon I’ll be fine. I certainly wouldn’t trade the experience of the weekend for anything.
written by  Theresa on September 15, 2008 from Mindo, Ecuador

balancing eggs and other such fun
How is it that already a month has passed? Though I am feeling much more accustomed to the city and know my way around better, there is still so much that I want to do and learn and see. Ecuador is full of excellent experiences to encounter.
Classes are progressing quickly as usual. I have just finished my third week of classes, have 1 two-hour class to teach left (in which we’re focusing on reading comprehension through Hemingway’s “A Clean, Well Lighted Place”), and then supposedly I’m ready for the real world. I’m nervous about this real world, but excited as well.
I will be teaching within the English Language department (CEC), which is part of a local University. Crazy. This will be very different from my prior teaching experiences, and even from the practice I’ve been receiving in my courses. But a great experience nonetheless. Plus it gives me great vacation time/travel opportunities in which I will spend my meager earnings.
So, other than taking classes, teaching classes and completing class work, my weekdays are rather boring. However our favorite dreamland, the land of weekend, always comes around again. =)
This week and weekend there has been a cultural festival in Quito so the plan was to meet up Saturday to attend some of the concerts. However, when it was time to meet up with all my classmates to go to Parque Carolina to enjoy ourselves with some musical entertainment, a HUGE storm swept into the valley. At the time I was in a mall, El Jardín, with Lisa getting lunch and looking for a few things for school and for the birthday of Colleen. All of a sudden, the lights in the stores went out and a pounding was coming down from the sky. The metal roof of the Supermaxi (supermarket monopolizer) alerted us to the teaming rain outside. We were thankful to be inside. Unfortunately, one can only stand to be in a mall for so long so eventually we braved the fierce weather outside. Got drenched trying to find the rest of our group who was nearby at a café and then gave up to go watch Elf at my house. It was so stange though. Usually the storms in Quito have passed by rather quickly. This was the most violent rain storm I have witnessed so far, and also the storm with the msot endurance.
To make up for missing the concerts (which were cancelled because lightning hit one of the tvs set up to display the stage to the crowd) my classmates and other miscellaneous friends and I met up in the evening to chill and go dancing. It was fun, but I really hate that here they can smoke inside at some public venues. There is no way to avoid reeking of cigarette smoke. Not my favorite aroma.
Sunday we got up early despite our late evening out and met up to go to the Mitad del Mundo. Though I´d been to the monument before, I had yet to visit the sweet indigenous museum, Museo de Sitio Intiñan—or the Path of the Sun. Ayla, Claire, Colleen, Laura, Lisa (classmates), Meadhbh and Felim (Irish friends) and I went up and learned all about the old native traditions and tested some of the typical equator activities. We toured some authentic and/or recreated homes and buildings, hundreds of years old at times. We also saw a recreated tomb in which their indigenous ancestors would bury their dead in the fetal position in clay pots. This tradition was to help the dead depart in a similar way to their entrance, growing and coming from the womb. However, they also had a tradition for when a chief died. Apparently, when a chief died, all the family and servants of the chief would be drugged with the meat/juices/something of a certain cactus plant and then buried alive inside the tomb with the chief. They would be knocked out, hallucinating as they were interred and then would die of suffocation once the tomb was closed. This was a tradition of honor seeing as the chief was a good person, all who go on to the next life with him will also have good lives.
We learned all about the indigenous sytem of calendar and solar clocks. It was pretty cool because our tour was around noon and since it is so close to the Equinnox the shadows were crazy. For the solar clocks, 6 months of the year, they use one side of the stone, and the other half of the year the other—but with the Equinnox, the sun’s direction is perpendicular so must be read in a different manner. We also got the do the typical water experiments, watching the water swirl in opposite directions in the two hemispheres and go straight down on the equator. I balanced an egg on the head of a nail. Our strength was tested multiple times. Resistence is less when physically on the equator, and you literally weigh a kilo less when you are standing on the equator. We rounded out our day with a lovely lunch and then headed back into Quito, except for Felim who had to catch a different bus back to the village in which he now works and harvest sugar cane. Good work for an engineer. He now has mad machete skills.
Alright, well I’ve got to finish up my lesson plan and preparation for tomorrow and start to put together my portfolio. Hope you’re all well!
written by  Theresa on September 21, 2008 from Quito, Ecuador

Fiestas, politics and adventures
This week I finished my TESOL certification course! On Monday during the break in my practice class, we threw a surprise party for my classmate Colleen.
teaching team w/gifts from students
The students pretty much planned it all. So cute. They brought snacks, music, and a cake. We also got her a balloon. Thursday was our last practice class. We ended a bit early and had a party with the students. They are awesome! They bought pizza, drink and snacks and each of us a gift and card. So nice! We chatted and danced for a few hours. We cleared the chairs and tables out of the rooftop patio and danced up there for a while with the other class and teachers too. It was a lot of fun to hang out with the students. Once the school closed, we went downtown to continue the dancing.
Dancing is an integral part of their culture and it was fun to partake in it with them. I’m learning a lot, but still am not the most graceful participant. But at least the people I was with were good dancers and strong leads so I did my best to follow along. During a salsa/techno song we had an energy ball improv dancing game around the circle. It was hilarious—some of my friends have sweet moves (though I would not put myself in that category).
This weekend in Ecuador is the vote on the new constitution. Since voting is mandatory for all Ecuadorians 18+, it is serious business. A lot of things are closed down because some Ecuadorians must travel great lengths to vote in their original hometown. There is almost no way to re-register so if you move away from where you lived growing up, you’ve got to travel to vote. Also, due to the vote, there is la ley seca which means that from noon on Friday until noon on Monday, no alcohol sales are permitted. If you are seen drinking alcohol during this time, purchasing or selling alcohol, or even just suspected of partaking in such spirits, you can be fined or thrown in jail. It’s serious business. La ley seca means that all the bars are closed for the weekend and stores with alcohol have those sections closed off. The ban on alcohol is supposed to make sure that all citizens make conscious decisions when voting on Sunday.
This whole month has been crazy with talk of the new constitution. I am no expert, but I know a little. There are so many changes going into the new constitution and this makes it very controversial; there are both good and bad things in it and many people are conflicted in making a decision. While they might agree with many changes, they are afraid of others that will take hold if it passes—and vice versa. The population is split. Tension is high and propoganda all around the city continues. Graffiti everywhere promoting sí or no, banners hanging from private homes, spray paint on walls and city buses, even rap songs telling of the artist’s opinions on the vote. There have also been some marches so try to rally support for either side. This has been going on all month and now tomorrow, it will all be decided. I don’t know enough to speculate which way to the vote will go, but I am curious about the outcome.
With the US presidential debate yesterday, we had originally planned to watch it at the Irish pub, a favorite of my Irish friend Felim. However, with la ley seca, this was a no go. Instead USers from all over Quito piled into the few restaurants with cable tv. I went out with my fellow USers to watch the debate downtown at Uncle Ho’s, an Asian restaurant that was designated as a viewing spot by the Obama campaign here in Quito. Every seat was taken. Many people were standing at the back, while the others covered every spare inch of floor space. It created quite a mess for the waitresses and cooks trying to get food to everyone. We shared a table with a man from the US Embassy in Peru, in Quito on vacation. The poor guy had no clue what he was getting himself into when he responded to his hankering for Asian food by going to that restaurant. He was really interesting though and we talked a lot about the current situation down in Bolivia and how he’s dealing with that down in Lima.
Though the tv was at an awkward angle from where we were sitting, I could see almost all of what was going on, but most of my group could only hear. Before the debate started, it was a loud mess in the restaurant, but once Jim Lehrer gave his introductory words, the place nearly fell silent for the duration of the debate. I was glad to have the opportunity to watch the debate. Being so busy and with minimal access to the internet this past month, it’s been hard to keep up. Though I feel both candidates could have actually addressed the issues better, instead of doing the usual political dance around them, I was still glad to see the two facing off.
After the debate, we went back to my friend Jenny’s place and talked about the debate with some Ecuadorian friends who’d also watched the debate. We also talked about the politics in Ecuador. It was great to be able to have such discussions, alternating between English and Spanish. I must say my political vocabulary in Spanish is pitiful.
Right now I write to you from my new apartment into which I moved this morning. Though everything is unpacked, I still have a bit of organizing and decorating to do—make it my own. But it’s really nice. I live in a house with 2 others (at the moment). I have my own large room with lots of natural sunlight, a huge walk-in closet and also giant bathroom with a view of Pichincha (the mountain to the west of the city). While I used to lived pretty far north in the city, now I am centrally located which is awesome. I’m so glad I’ll be taking far fewer cabs now.
Cabs in Quito are plentiful and reasonably priced during the day. Of course, you must be careful to take only registered cabs and watch the meter to make sure it’s not fast (there are many tricks some cabbies try to pull to increase the fare). But at night it’s a different story. Once daylight is gone, the meters are turned off and you must bargain for your fare. Being gringa, cabbies almost always offer an extremely high price, hoping I won’t know any better. Too bad for them. I know my prices and have gotten pretty good at arguing my fare down to what I consider reasonable. Driving at night is also an experience. While traffic rules are followed for the most part during the day, this is not the case at night. Traffic lights are merely a suggestion. As long as you honk you horn while you’re going through the intersection, you’re fine. Drivers here take many more risks than I am used to. Even the bus drivers shock me at times, fitting these giant city buses through the tiny spaces between cars in traffic, or merging without regard to others who might be in the lane. Crazy.
Anyway, that’s just a little update on what’s going on with me. Now that I’m done my TESOL course, I have 2 weeks off until I start working. Tomorrow night I’ll take an 11-hour overnight bus to Puerto Lopez, a small fishing village/beach town, with Phil and Laura. I’m excited to relax for a few days. There are also some day trips in that area we can do during our time in the south. I'm especially looking forward to visiting La Isla de Plata. We’ll book it back to Quito near the end of the week to grab some clean clothes and go with the rest of our group on a weekend trip to Baños, a natural and adventure haven for travelers in Ecuador. I´m very excited and will be sure to let you know how it all works out when I return. =)

beaches and the poor man's galapagos
Puerto Lopez, Ecuador
Puerto Lopez is a small fishing village on the coast, a mere 12 hour bus ride from Quito. I embarked on this journey with Phil and Laura. Though the bus ride was not ideal (delays enroute of at least an hour due to an accident ahead, ambulances zooming by) at least we were about to travel at night and not miss out on a day. The driver tried to make up for as much as possible, only slowing down slightly for the speed bumps, zipping around corners as we ascended and descended the mountains, and playing chicken once or twice trying to pass the huge mack trucks heeding our passage.
Luckily once we got there, it was easy going. This small town is easily navigated and we found our beachfront hostel quickly. After settling into our treehouse-like bungalow, we enjoyed the complimentary breakfast the hostel offers. Much better than many continental breakfasts I’ve had in the past.
Monday: day of arrival. This weather was kinda gross, overcast and misting/drizzling all day, but we didn’t let that stop us. We explored the village streets, walked along the beach, played on a swing set, and did some reading (me)/napping (them) on the beach as well. It is really pretty there. Unfortunately, we were informed by some locals that due to the conflicting air currents that come together in this region, there is usually little sun. Therefore, we could not expect much more than this type of overcast day. Oh well. We made the most of it, lounging mostly on the beach or in the hammocks in our hostel’s courtyard, decorated with plentiful plants, trees, flowers and pets. They had two dogs: Scooby Doo (a beautiful black and gray spotted Great Dane, very chill) and Canela (=cinnamon in English, a small pup whose breed I cannot identify, but an energetic pup). There was also Raita, a guanta…what this is in English I have no clue. It looked like a giant hamster, and she certainly had personality. When Scooby Doo ate Raita’s portion of dinner, Raita had no problem running up to Scooby Doo and biting him on the leg (it’s all she could reach). Fun pets to observe, indeed.
Other interesting animals to observe were the crabs that littered the beach with tiny holes. We spent a bit of time sitting on the beach and I took to observing these funny workers. Though the crabs nearest our resting place stayed hidden, the others just a few yards away were quickly back out, doing their business. It was so funny to watch them and learn about their different mannerisms and personalities. At this point you're probably scoffing or shaking your head or laughing a bit. That's okay. But really, these crabs were full of personality. One of the bigger crabs worked slowly to clear sand out of his home (the holes all of the beach). He'd scoop the sand out with his claw very slowly and then meticulously pat it down, doing a little dance over the pile of sand he'd created to the side of the hole. Another crab had a very different approach. He just chucked the sand out of his hole and left it wherever it landed. He was a bit lazy I think. Another was just running back and forth across the wet sand, near the tide coming in; I think he was practicing his dueling skills. Some crabs were timid while others went around messing up everyone elses work. It was hilarious. I really enjoyed watching these little critters.
Also on Monday we went to the restaurant at Hotel Mandala, which is wicked sweet but out of our price range for accommodations. Luckily, the food was well priced and delicious!
Tuesday: adventures galore. We had planned to visit La Isla de Plata, aka the poor man’s Galapagos—this island is a part of the Machililla National Park. One of my favorite parts about this tour package was the discounted price for our admission due to our foreign residency here in Ecuador. I am so glad I already have this resident ID...and I look forward to reaping the benefits from it on future adventures too. For this trip, it meant paying $5 instead of $20 for park admission.
On our tour were a group of traveling Brits whom we’d met at the hostel, a few other couples, and (lo and behold) a group of people we knew from Mindo! So funny! Our friend/guide Lady had accompanied some of the German volunteers placed in Mindo for a beach excursion during their vacation. What a riot! And so much fun to have them there and catch up with them again, even though it’s only been a few weeks since we’d seen them.
humpbacks...I named them Dorotea and Felix
Okay, back to the tour. We took a relatively small boat out the 1.5 hours to the island with out whole group, 2 guides, and crew of the boat. On the way we came upon a pair of humpback whales and traveled with them for a while. Whale season in this region is late June to early October. The pregnant whales that arrive in June birth their calves and the rest of the migrants come to find partners. So late in the season, we were lucky to see this pair, a male and female.
Once on the island, our bird watching began. We hiked around half of the island spotting different types of birds: blue-footed, red-footed and masked boobies, frigate birds and some others whose names I have forgotten. The most plentiful were the blue-footed boobies. And by plentiful, I mean they were EVERYWHERE. They’d often set up camp, nest and all, in the middle of the hiking path and we’d have to bushwhack around so as not to upset them/get bitten. These birds are quite territorial.
Blue-Footed Booby parents guarding their egg
Each year they chose a new mate, lay 2 to 3 eggs, and raise one chick. It’s survival of the fittest. The strongest chick will push the others out of the nest, and once out of the safety ring of excrement the parents made, they will no longer care for the babes. The male and female blue-footed boobies are nearly identical visually, only the size of the pupils differs: females having larger pupils than males. However their calls are distinct. The females have a course, low almost quacking sound while the males have a smooth, high whistling sound.
We didn’t see many blue-footed babies because they had a high level of rain on the island last winter and the ground was not dry enough for this breed to conceive and raise young. However the masked boobies were far more successful, living on the windy side of the island. We saw babies of many ages, from a month or more old to a day old, broken eggshell still in view, chick without any feathers.
Masked Booby family....can you see the newly hatched chick?
The older chicks were fluffy white—looked wicked soft. The blue-footed booby eggs were whitish-blue while the masked booby eggs were speckled brown. The parents were very protective of their eggs and nests (for the most part) and especially of their babies. I say for the most part because there was a time when we came quickly around the corner of the path and stumbled upon a nest, mother and two eggs. The mother was so surprised by our arrival that she flew away. Very uncharacteristic.
We saw only a couple red-footed boobies; this breed has been in trouble in the past couple of years but now on this island there are 18 pairs. A good comeback so far. The frigates were everywhere in the air and trees once we hit the cliffs leading to the sea. They prefer to stay on the cliffs.
As for other nature, there were plenty of speedy lizards, a stick bug, and some moths that I saw. Our hike around this trail took about 3 hours and it was HOT by the end. Though still overcast, it was very bright and I got a bit of color.
The surroundings on the island were rather bleak. This is dry season (one of the 2 seasons in Ecuador--can you guess what the other is?) so there is not much vegetation. However, there were many barren trees, cacti and plentiful loofah plants. Though the loofah pods look dead, once you break off the encasement around them, inside is the lovely exfoliating sponge plant we all know and love. Though slightly different from the loofah's my family used to grow, I was amazed by this plant. The loofah's merely act as fertilizer for the plants in the area, since this is a natural reserve and nothing may leave the park. Pretty neat.
Once back on the boat, we ate a quick lunch and headed over to a cove to do some snorkeling and swimming. There were some really cool fish there, and the water was beautiful too. And a wonderful temperature to help us cool off after the hot hike. I don’t know much about fish, so can’t identify anything I saw, but others mentioned rainbow fish and barracudas. I liked the small bright blue ones that swam in schools all around me.
The ride back in the boat was much smoother than the way to the island, but I still prefer to go in slightly bigger boats. Too rocky for my liking. Especially on the way there when the captain would cut the engine so we could view the whales. That was not so nice to my tummy, but I survived, all my breakfast intact.
We arrived back in Puerto Lopez around dinner time, said goodbye to our Mindo friends who were leaving that night, cleaned up and headed out for drinks and dinner with our new English friends. Unfortunately, by the time we all were ready to head out, it was quite late and restaurants in Puerto Lopez close earlier than I’m used to. So we had to try a few out before heading back to Mandala to order quickly before they closed the kitchen. Another delicious meal and tons of stories told amongst our new friends.
Wednesday: more Machalilla Park. All around Puerto Lopez, we walked but were always passed by these motorcycle rickshaw type taxis offering to take us where we needed to go. It wasn’t until Wednesday morning that we finally got in. My goodness….what a bumpy ride! A few times I hit my head on the ceiling, got dust in the eyes, and nearly slid out of the open sides of the rickshaw. All in good fun. Phil, Laura and I took this taxi to the main Machililla National Park to visit Los Frailes, supposedly the most beautiful beach in Ecuador. This crescent shaped beach certainly held up to this superlative. GORGEOUS! When we got there it was almost sunny, and nice and warm. We relaxed, read, went for walks and explored. For the most part, we were the only ones on the beach, with others wandering past at times, but not staying long. Unfortunately, at some point, the clouds came to cover the sun thicker, and the wind picked up. Still a nice beach day, but definitely not the best for swimming or sunbathing. Oh well. I got some more reading done and found some cool shells and rocks when Laura and I explored the far end of the beach; Phil opted for the closer end with the cave. Also cool.
When our taxi driver arrived to pick us up at the aforementioned time, we headed back to our hostel to shower, change and be on our way. It was really nice that we could hang out at the hostel and use their showers since we’d already checked out that morning, and received all the info we needed to make our excursion for the day possible. Each morning, Consuela fixed our breakfasts and would tell us everything we needed to know and gave tips as to what we should see while here. I was especially glad for her tip that you hire a taxi to take you to the park, set up a time for him to return, and don’t pay him anything until he brings you back to Puerto Lopez—just to make sure he comes back for you. Smart lady.
We wandered the streets a bit, had an early dinner (which also served as our lunch), picked up some snacks for the road and were on our way on another overnight bus back to Quito. This time it took only a bit over 11 hours. Not bad, especially considering all the stops we made to pick up people from other bus terminals along the way. The one annoying thing was that the tickets were very disorganized for the return trip. We were told to sit wherever, but then when given our ticket receipt, were not only assigned to completely different seats, but also totally separate from one another. Weird. And then when we arrived at Porto Viejo (I think) our bus filled up completely but there were multiple double bookings of seats. Therefore, we wouldn’t move out of out incorrect seats because our assigned seats were already full. Eventually the ticket lady couldn’t deal with the fuss and drama and just told everyone to take whatever seat available. Much better.
Unfortunately, I was just getting to sleep right before this drama incurred and was unable to get back to sleep for the remainder of the bus ride. So I got maybe an hour’s sleep, and quite a fright when Laura (who sat next to me) had a nightmare about being pick-pocketed and assigned me the role as the thief, unbeknownst to this fact beforehand. All of a sudden I had her fist in my face, and grabbing at purse strap—luckily she awoke immediately and we both laughed about the situation heartily. Good reaction time. Hopefully Laura will be able to use these speed skills in the future if she has too…. none of us look forward to any sort of petty theft, but it happens.
Anyhow, I think this is all for my days on the coast. Now I have a little relaxation time in Quito to continue settling into my new abode and then tomorrow night our whole group is off to Baños for another adventure trip. Woot.
written by  Theresa on October 2, 2008 from Puerto Lopez, Ecuador

a few more waterfall adventures
Banos, Ecuador
Pailón del Diablo
Baños. Amazing. This weekend I went to the adventurer tourist’s dreamland with a few friends (the usual crowd plus our friend from Ireland: Jenny, Andrea, Lisa, Laura, Colleen, Ayla, Phillip, Claire, and Meadhbh) for our last group trip…or at least the last one planned by Jenny. It’s so nice to have someone who knows the ropes figure stuff out for you. It was a real vacation; all I had to do was show up.
Alright, so down to the nitty gritty. Friday night we wound our way through the mountain roads, 4 hours outside of Quito to Baños (I swear, with all the traffic, it seemed like 1 whole hour was just getting out of Quito). Our local guide, Paolo, met us off the bus, showed us to our hostel (wicked sweet place...comfiest bed I’ve had yet, I wish I could’ve taken it all back with me, except for the tiny ants) and then we grabbed a quick bite around 11:30 before heading to bed. We would need all the energy we could muster the next day.
Since we entered the city under the cover of darkness, it wasn’t until I arose Saturday morning that I beheld the majestic mountains and volcano surrounding the city. And not mountains like those around Quito—beautiful, green mountains.
view from our hostel
I miss greenery. After engorging myself at breakfast, our zigzagging car ride brought us up, over, through and around some mountains, clinging to steep ledges overlooking the river below on the way to our destination: Cashuarco. This region/location is named after the specific type of sand found there. This was also the location for our day on canyoning: trekking through the river, repelling down waterfalls and jumping off of stuff into the deep pools. Our three guides (José, Fabian, and Paolo) taught us the basics in repelling and safety for the day. We suited up in wetsuits and harnesses and started over to the first waterfall.
all geared up and ready to go
After climbing down the embankment, our first task was to jump the 8 meters down the first drop off to reach the first repelling line. No sweat. I’ve found that I really like jumping off of things. And this was totally safe. Since we had 2 life jackets with us, we jumped 2 at a time and then threw the jackets back up for the next recruits. The first repel was shorter, to get us used to this new skill and also was on dry surface. However, once you reached the bottom of this line, you had to stand on a ledge smaller than my feet until you were hooked up to the next line and cleared to continue. Yikes. I loved the repelling, but having to wait here, only hooked onto the rock with my safety line was nerve wracking. Especially when the next person was descending closer and closer to your head and there was definitely not room for more than 2 on that small, slimy surface area. The next repel was a zipline, starting out next to the rocks but then you give a lot more slack as you fly through the air to the calm river bed below. Lots of fun. During this ziplining, I felt I had much more control than the previous ziplining experience I had. It was cool.
Then we trekked through the river a bit to reach the next activity. The mission, if you chose to accept it, was to scale the side of the river bank to reach a small ledge and jump into the water below. Obviously I accepted the challenge. Fun, as usual. A short jump, probably only 4 meters or so, but nice. And since the water’s not all that deep, you really shouldn’t jump from higher. And you’ve got to be careful to aim for the exact deep pocket in the river, because there are rocks everywhere.
a nice, chilly bath
The next repel was alongside a waterfall, wet and slimy rocks. At the bottom there were 3 choices: swim around the waterfall tumbling into the pool (easy), swim through it (hard), or swim along the outskirts (medium). I’ll give you one guess as to my decision. Yup, and the water felt great and it was nice to have a real current to get through. After this repel, since I was one of the first, I was able to lay out on the rocks and take in some sun until the others finished. This was also lovely. The sun felt so good—and the water was pretty cold, especially after being in it for so many hours.
After some more aquatic trekking, and a baby hop down another 2 meters, we reached a dramatic drop off. We hooked onto safety lines while we waited for our turn to repel down alongside, and sometimes through, this waterfall. The twist on this leg of repelling was that you only repelled ¾ of the way down, then you unhooked from the lines and jumped the rest of way, about 5 meters.
repelling down the rock face
From here, the end was in sight. A tiny jump down into the final pool where the water drains—I have no clue what happens to the water from here, but there is a river just down the way, so maybe there’s a way it joins back to that. Crazy though. There was only one small pocket of depth in this pool—and it got shallow really fast. But that didn’t stop us from climbing up the rock overlooking the pool and getting a last jump in.
We hiked up the path, overlooking the river and gorgeous green mountains and passing the trout pools (they grow/raise their own). Most of my peers had this trout for lunch—they are very proud of their trout, and I’m told it was delicious. I was completely satisfied with my omelet, rice, tomato &onion salad, and patacones. I LOVE patacones. Many times before coming to Ecuador I had the Puerto Rican version, tostones, thanks to some good Puerto Rican friends of mine in town. So I eagerly devour these delicious, meaty fried plantains. So good. Chifles, banana chips, are another of my favorite banana snacks here. Delicious and rich in potassium—everybody wins.
Back in the van, we sang along to a diverse collection of late 80s, early 90s hits from the states, got some techno in there, and also some latin flavor too.
Once back in town, we got cleaned up, walked around a bit and relaxed before the evening activities. This month in Baños is the celebration of their virgin, the local icon Nuestra Señora de Agua Santa. Yes—month. Every night for the whole month of October there is a celebration, on a new street corner every night. This morning we saw a marching band leading a procession of churchgoers carrying pedestals and statues of the virgin and other religious icons around town, to and from the church.
By this point in time, I was in love with Baños. I was looking forward to this trip long before I came, having read about this city in multiple travel guides. I was right. This is my kind of city. Manageable size and tons to do. Beautiful mountains and greenery in every direction; even a snow capped volcano (Tungurahua) that erupted earlier this year. I could totally live here. I love city and nature together. Okay, so it’s not really city, but enough for my liking. And it is quite touristy, not my favorite, but I love it nonetheless. Just to be outside, have so much available: hiking, rafting, kayaking, horseback riding, adventure sports, spas…the list goes on.
Now that I’ve sung enough praises, I’ll continue in my account of the weekend. Saturday night included a delicious meal out and then out and about on the town. My friend Camy was also in Baños this weekend and we just so happened to run into her on the street and made plans to meet up later. We also hung out with our guide Paolo and some of his friends. Playing games, conversing, and of course dancing. Always dancing. Such a warm culture, and patient too. I do think I improved my dancing quite a bit that night and maybe some language too. I love hanging out with the locals because then I get to practice my Spanish a whole lot more than when I’m with my English speaking friends. It was awesome to have such a diverse group of people out that night and by the time I reached my bed, I was exhausted. Luckily the soft bed and comforter enveloped me immediately and I was sound asleep in moments.
Sunday morning I again ate way too much at breakfast (it’s so hard when there’s so much, and it’s so good) and then we were off. First stop, puenting—or swing jumping. This is where you get in a harness hooked up to some rope apparatus on a bridge, stand on the ledge and jump, swinging like a pendulum. It looks like so much fun. Unfortunately, my morning eating and then zigzagging car ride made my stomach a little queasy and I didn’t feel it could take such a leap. Boo. I was really looking forward to doing this. Next time. But Phil’s stomach was strong enough and he took the leap of faith and said it was awesome. I’m jealous.
After this we went to the Pailón del Diablo, a spectacular waterfall destination. Seriously, it’s a crazy waterfall. We hiked down, up and around to get there and see this intense waterfall. Then, creeping through the cramped crawl space between rock ledges, almost cave like, we wound our way up to the top viewing balcony, directly behind the water crashing down. There was no way to experience this and stay dry. So I got my second shower for the day.
We had a lot of fun here at the waterfall, in the water, scraping through the rock caverns, and viewing the tumultuous water at the base of the waterfall. Apparently someone was once crazy enough to try to kayak in this water…I don’t know the specifics, but the kayak is still wrapped around some of the rocks in the water below the falls, so I wouldn’t guess it ended too well.
On our way back into town we stopped to have a quick ride on the tarabita. This is a cable car that zips across the open air space over the river. Like a roller coaster, but slower. However the sudden stops and starts keep you on your toes and holding on to keep from falling over or out of the small, not quite secure car. Lovely, really.
After a quick stop at the hostel and lunch we were back on the road to Quito. Now it’s raining sheets outside and I’m here in my cozy/cool 58 degree Fahrenheit room. Houses in Ecuador rarely have heat. Luckily, having a bedroom for the past year in a converted porch, I’m quite used to this.
written by  Theresa on October 5, 2008 from Banos, Ecuador

PICTURES!!!
Hey all,
So finally I've uploaded my pictures. Internet is much slower here so it took a while.
Here's the link to my photowebpage:
Enjoy!
written by  Theresa on October 7, 2008 from Quito, Ecuador

beach, but this time with some sunlight!
Atacames, Ecuador
This weekend was the celebration of la Independencia de Guayaquil. This holiday, el 9 de octubre, takes over the country. Though Guayaquil celebrates hardcore with a 3 day long party, the other cities also take advantage of the holiday and there are a few days off work. Somehow, the ninth was my first day of work, so I didn’t get the whole holiday, but Friday I set off to the beach with Meadhbh and Ayla to take advantage of the three-day weekend.
The bus ride to Atacames was rather nice. Very comfortable bus, decent leg room, and a comfortable temperature—more than I can say for most other long distance rides I’ve taken. They also played two movies during the 6.5 hour ride. However, they were both a bit violent for my liking, so I stuck to reading, listening to music, and admiring the gorgeous scenery of Ecuador passing outside the window.
Once in Atacames, we took a rickshaw taxi to our hostel and checked in. Due to the holiday, it was a very busy weekend. Even though we’d reserved a room in advance, when we arrived, they’d already given out the room. The only room left was a tiny 2-bunk cabin, so Meadhbh and I shared a bed that night and we only had to pay for 2 people. When you’re on the coast, the main food group is seafood. This limits my menu considerably, but for my companions it was a chance to have fresh, local fare. While Meadhbh enjoyed her mystery fish, Ayla unfortunately got a bad shrimp in her mix and was sick for nearly the rest of the weekend. =( But she was a good sport and says she still had fun.
Meadhbh and I ventured forth to sample the abundant night life in Atacames. This city is one that lives off tourism. When there are no tourists, I’m told it’s a very different place. However, due to the holiday weekend, the city was chock full of tourists—most of whom were Ecuadorian. All along the beach were bars and restaurants, each blasting their own music, making an interesting soundtrack for the areas, blending many songs into one. Each place was packed with people of all ages. Even families were present. Fathers dancing with daughters, friends laughing and playing in the sand, mothers rocking sleeping babies (though how they could sleep through so much noise is beyond me), and new friends being made everywhere. We found a kind of quiet corner with a hammock in which to observe the scene and enjoy the local, tropical fruit drinks.
The next morning, after getting a quick breakfast with a delicious goblet of fresh juice (I drank more than my share of fruits this weekend), we all headed to the beach.
the beach, a little overcast
Though a bit overcast, there was still plenty of light and heat. Somewhere midday the clouds broke and gave us an hour or so of direct sunlight—you can definitely feel the difference! The temperature skyrocketed immediately and hoards of people dove into the ocean. The ocean was refreshing compared to the heat on the beach, but it was nowhere near cold. Some good waves though for body surfing, mostly made by the boats pulling inflated rafts and boats for visitors to ride. We did not partake. I was content enough to do a little swimming, bask in the sunlight, and read. This was a real vacation.
When we returned we switched cabins to a 3-bunk, more spacious abode though closer to the street. It was quite loud, as you could hear everything going on outside the walls. Ayla said it felt like “sleeping on the sidewalk,” but we managed it.
Eventually we made our way to lunch, trying out the local places, following the guide of “Trust Ecuadorian stomachs, if they eat there, you can eat there.” So we found some packed restaurant venues on the sides of streets and I inquired if they had vegetarian plates. My first response was “Vegetarian plate? What’s that?” So we moved on. Eventually we just sat down somewhere and I ordered rice, salad and patacones…knowing that these came with all the other meals so they’d have to have them for me too. Meadhbh braved the fish again, and it came whole and fried. Fried eyes look weird. We also had nice cold drinks courtesy of the wait staff that goes out and buys the drinks from nearby tiendas (stores/holes in the wall that sell you things…delightful) when you ask for them.
After lunch we read in poolside hammocks at out hostel and did some swimming as well. Ayla forwent dinner since she was feeling ill again, so it was just Meadhbh and I again. We chose a balcony restaurant overlooking the beach and then headed down for some live entertainment afterward. The first place we went had a dance troupe performing when we arrived. It was really cool, and I was sad when they were done, but there was still some entertainment. Instead of bar stools, this bar had swings. Other tables and benches were shaped like rowboats. It was quite unique. And I thoroughly enjoyed swinging there, but we made it an early night anyway—the strong sun that day definitely tired us out!
Sunday was more overcast than the day before, but that didn’t deter us—nor anyone else—from going to the beach. A bit chillier than the day before, and at times a misting rain, made this less than ideal for me, but “perfect beach weather” for Ayla. Both my companions were nursing sun burns from the previous day so they were fine with a little less sunshine. I just accepted it as it was, knowing it was more sun and heat than I’d have in Quito (and news was it rained a bit there this past weekend, so I’m certainly grateful for the beautiful weather I enjoyed in Atacames).
A quick walk down the beach, cleaning up and checking out of our cabin, we found ourselves on the street around 1, needing to entertain ourselves until our 4pm bus. We headed down to the beachfront amenities and had a few snacks and played some cards. We also ran into some friends stopping in to eat lunch on the way back from a more deserted beach a little over an hour south down the coast. It’s amazing—I really can’t go anywhere in Ecuador without running into someone I know!
A quick lunch, some snacks from the tienda for the bus ride and we were off, back to the sierra. However, this bus ride was not nearly as enjoyable as the last. The bus had a slight odor, it was unbearable hot at times, and there were many unidentifiable bugs scurrying along the floor, walls, seats, etc. Gross. Ayla squished just about every one she saw. I tried to just ignore them.
All in all, it was a wonderful beach vacation. Relaxing.
written by  Theresa on October 14, 2008 from Atacames, Ecuador

adventures in teaching begin
Can you guess the category?
1) a man urinating on the sidewalk
2) a squished bird
3) a very dirty diaper behind the bus stop shelter
4) a little boy pouring his bag of chifles on the ground, staring at them, and then putting them back into the bag
5) sunshine, blue skies (usually mornings)
6) ominous clouds followed by sheets of rain and a drenched Theresa (afternoon and onward)
7) garbage trucks driving away while the collectors run after the truck throwing (most of) the trash into the back
The answer is, “things Theresa sees on her way to/from work.”
Week one is done, and I am feeling a bit more sluggish. This is definitely a new schedule for me, but I’m getting used to it. I am glad to be doing something again as well. Though I enjoyed my 2 weeks of vacation, I’m glad to have a purpose again—and that would be teaching English. I teach 2 classes: one from 7-9am, one from 4-6pm. Then I hang out at school for my third 2-hour shift as a substitute, to fill in for teachers in that building when needed, from 6-8. What a joy. I mean, I like getting up early, but having my workday so spread out makes me feel like each workday is really 2 days. I’ll get used to it though, and it does allow me to take advantage of the daytime hours so for that I am thankful. I just have to get around to actually taking advantage of these hours. Maybe next week, when I’m more used to this new life style.
I’m enjoying my classes and learning about all the protocol and processes in the English branch of the university for which I teach. It’s pretty crazy. This cycle (each year has 5 cycles of classes) the number of students skyrocketed. There are now over 4,000 students studying here, 40 new teachers, but all the same materials, classrooms and building staff (yikes!).
I teach in two different buildings and luckily am perfectly situated to have short commutes wherever I need to go. It’s less than 10 minutes walking to any of the buildings—there are four classroom sites that we work at. I teach on the university campus in the morning, and our English branch’s main building in the afternoon/evening.
Also this week, I attended some important events (at least for me). As usual, I went to the local Irish pub to watch the presidential debate. Usually, we'd go early to get good seats since this place is packed with USers on debate nights. But since I was working until 8 I didn't have this luxury. Luckily, not all of us work until 8, so I at least had a stool to sit on, even if there was no table for my dinner (potato wedges--not much vegetarian fare at this place). That night I also found out they'd be showing the "win or go home" Red Sox game the following evening. It was decided then and there that I'd have to return the next night. This time though, I planned ahead. I knew I'd be late for the game, due to my work schedule, and again starving, so I made extra lunch and packed it up for dinner, to eat during my sub period. Good plan, right? Wrong. You actually have to remember the plan before you leave the house to make it work. I forgot my dinner in the fridge, so another night of potato wedges for me. But the game was great. It was weird to watch it without sound, there were plenty of people there not for the game, but I was just glad to be able to see my boys play. =)
Alright, well I’ve got some planning to do for this week, finishing up 2 units and preparing for the first test (yup, a test already…students have tests every 2 weeks). Hope you’re all well. =)
written by  Theresa on October 18, 2008 from Quito, Ecuador

optical illusions
It's strange. I know I've only been living in Quito for a little over 2 months, and that I've only been officially working for 3 weeks now, but life seems so normal. I am sufficiently adjusted I believe. Since my plan is pretty much the same from day to day, I'm finding it difficult to find things to write about.
My days consist of basically the same things: teaching, planning, grading, grocery shopping, running in Parque Carolina, running errands, cooking and eating. I've been spending more time with my roommates and see my other friends who live together in "the Embassy" throughout the week as well. I also started Spanish conversation lessons this week which I am really enjoying. Though I speak Spanish with some people in my house, at school I must speak English and most of my friends are English speakers so I've been having a hard time finding time and opportunities to practice. This is a wonderful beginning--but I still need to get out and talk to more locals.
I've also been keeping up with sports back in the States, watching most of the World Series and catching some Monday Night football as well. I am so glad to have such nice cable at my house! Of course the commentary is in Spanish, but that makes it all the more interesting!
Halloween is now upon us, as is the Day of the Dead. Halloween is kind of controversial here, depending on who you talk to. However, we're still getting all decked out for a Halloween bash my roommates are throwing. I also look forward to some of the local traditions and festivities. For example, only at this time of year can you enjoy the typical colada morada and guagua de pan--the first being a warm, purple, fruit drink, the second being a small bread loaf in the shape of a baby, decorated with icing. I believe I'll have to visit a cemetery on Sunday to get the full experience, though i don't want to be intruding on families visiting their families either. I'll have to tread lightly.
That's all for now. Have a safe and happy Halloween!
written by  Theresa on October 30, 2008 from Quito, Ecuador

Happy Halloween!
During each teaching cycle, each class has two movie days. I had the pleasure of having my first movie days yesterday and today. With the holiday, I thought it was only fitting to watch a Halloween type movie, however still school appropriate--my students are 14+ in age. In my afternoon class yesterday, we watched The Legend of Sleepy Hollow (which still warranted screams from my youngest pupil); this morning we watched the original Frankenstein movie--and I must say, I prefer the book. I also shared some candy with my students and some history of our tradition--they were a bit more reluctant to share about theirs--Day of the Dead, but I know some will be celebrating it old style this weekend, or at least spending time with family.
Backtracking...last weekend I visited one of the must-see tourist attractions in Quito: El Panecillo (little bread loaf), where the Virgen de Quito statue is located. You can see the statue from the center of the city and it helps to orient us, knowing the statue is always south. However, once there, we realized there is still a large portion of the city south of this statue!
Virgen de Quito
The statue is also much bigger in person. Obviously it has to be big, but she is massive. One serious Virgin of the Apocolypse. With Meadhbh and Ayla I ascended into the statue, taking in the history of the statue's construction through old photographs and written statements. There were also beautiful stained glass windows throughout the bottom portion of the statue--Earth. Though you couldn't climb inside the body of the beast or of the virgin, the views from the top of the world were wonderful. However, in my rush that morning I didn't bring my camera, so i'll pass some pictures along from my friends once I have them. Visiting el Panecillo for the views of the city was wonderful, and it was a gorgeous, clear day too. Perfect, really.
view of the city from Panecillo
Getting to el Panecillo was not difficult, though not something we were entirely sure how to do either. So we rode as far south as we could on the Trole (which was really far--20 minutes further than I'd ever been before!) and took a 10 minute taxi ride to the top of the hill--it's a good idea not to walk up the hill because there have been many accounts of robberies and wild dog attacks. We thought we'd avoid that adventure for the day. When we left, we hopped on a bus headed to Mitad del Mundo and had the driver drop us off in el Centro Historico before hitting the highway. It worked out perfectly. I love that we're now comfortable enough to just go and not worry so much about how exactly we have to do things--we just figure it out as we go along.
One more thing, I've added a few photos from my canyoning adventure in Baños earlier this month. See my photo website for more shots of this day. We were very lucky that our guide had a waterproof digital and could document this awesome day. So cool. Though for some reason my facial expressions are sometimes unfortunate and odd--usually because the guide was saying something to me or I was reacting toward him in some way--we were very much like siblings in our interactions...it was unusual, and pretty cool. Anyway, check those out later if you're interested. =)

a sigh of relief
I'd been hearing a lot of "Well, on Tuesday I'll know if I can ever go back to the States" type of comments lately. And the excitement and anxiety leading up to Election Tuesday was palpable. Here, nearly everyone I talked to about the election was for Obama, but I knew it couldn't be quite like that back in the States, and since I'm not there to see what's going on, I was nervous.
During my sub block, I was watching the first votes come in on cnn....thrilled to see Vermont give Obama his first three votes. Woot. Once work got out, I rushed home to continue watching the results with my roommates, and have some 2x1 Tuesday pizza. Sitting in the living room, watching more and more states report, I was a wreck. I couldn't stop fidgeting and I making cynical and bitter remarks. With the past election, I learned not to count my chickens before they hatch, so I was not going to make the same mistake again. I was doubtful of many statistics due to the low number of precincts, and wouldn't let myself get ahead of the facts. The whole night I knew I wouldn't believe anything until morning...I'd have to pinch myself to see if it were real. So eventually, I settled down and fell asleep with my computer beside my bed. At that time, Obama was practically there...I think I missed the "official" announcement by 20 minutes or so...but my cynicism wouldn't have let me relish in it anyway....they've announced wrong presidential winners before. However, checking the results was the first thing I did when I woke up in the middle of the night, and again in the morning before class.
My favorite fun election facts: Vermont came in 3rd with highest voting percentage for Obama at 67%, following Hawaii at 72% and DC at 93%. And (courtesy of Matthew), out of all of New England, there was only one county that Obama did not win. He got 66 out of 67 counties in New England. Woot. I'm glad that's what I call home.
Wednesday morning was a good morning. Everyone seemed to be in higher spirits. One of my students asked, "Are you having a good day?" and I responded, "Yes, everyday should be better now." I know change will take time, especially with how troubled the US is right now, left in shambles by Bush, but I have faith that Obama can make it happen...we just have to have faith and patience.
Other than politics, things have been pretty normal. Monday was a holiday here, because of día de los difuntos, so it's been a 4 four work week. And I've got to say--I'm really enjoying the shortened work week.
Today is also a beautiful day, a nice change from the chillier, rainy days we had all weekend. Three days of miserable weather, making it impossible to do any of the things I wanted to do around town. And with the more constant rain and clouds, the days have become chillier (by Quito standards) and my room doesn't get warmer than 59 degrees fahrenheit...even if there is morning sun streaming through my windows.
A few of my friends have only a few short weeks left in Quito so I've been trying to see them as much as possible, and we're making plans to finish up the necessary sight seeing and adventure having before they depart, inshallah.
Well, I must go and take advantage of some of this sunshine. Hope there's some sunshine over on your end as well. =)
written by  Theresa on November 6, 2008 from Quito, Ecuador

Quito: the city of every season, every day
One time, my friend Laura had her class come up with slogans to describe Quito. My favorite was, Quito: The city of all seasons, every day.
This is true. It helps that Ecuador has only 2 seasons--wet and dry. We are now transitioning between the two seasons and the discrepancy between the two climates is huge.
For example, this morning when I returned from my morning class I sat outside in my yard to grade papers and then read for leisure. The sky was a brilliant blue, not a cloud in sight. The sun was strong and made it delightfully warm. From the hour or so I spent in direct sunlight, my shoulders burnt a bit and my arms got a bit darker.
This has been typical on weekdays--though rain and clouds in the morning also happens, usually on weekends (to ruin my plans, of course).
Afternoons are a different story. You used to be able to set your watch by the storms; come 3 o'clock, there will be rain. However, this pattern has been upset and now you never now when the rain will hit.
When I looked out my window at 3:15 this afternoon, the sky was ominously dark and ferocious looking clouds were littering the sky. I tried to gather my things quickly and get to school before the storm hit, but missed my window of opportunity. Literally as I was walking down the stairs to leave, the torrential downpour began. I put on my rain coat, clutched my bag close to me, and prayed my umbrella would keep some of the rain off me.
The walk to school is not long, but in this type of rain it's terrible. Not only were sheets of rain coming down, but there were also spurts of hail and thunder so strong it was setting off car alarms. Needless to say, I arrived at school soaked. Though my rain coat had protected me sufficiently, my pants were drenched and I left puddles in my wake.
However, I was not as bad off as a few of my students who had come without umbrellas today (why anyone would leave without an umbrella is beyond me--mine is my trusty sidekick). Soaked through, I sent them to the cafeteria to get hot drinks to warm up before starting class.
Soon, I look forward to returning home, getting some dry clothes (especially shoes) and having a nice evening with friends. This is bound to be a busy weekend...with a hike tomorrow morning and a festival in a town a few hours north of here on Sunday. I can't wait!
written by  Theresa on November 7, 2008 from Quito, Ecuador

Life Outside the City
Atahualpa, Ecuador
Last weekend I had a few outdoor adventures, and time spent outside of the city. I live for these moments. As many things as Quito has to offer, I don't think I'm quite this metropolitan. I love to be elsewhere.
So Saturday a group of friends and I went to TeleferiQo (the cable cars that bring you up Pichincha on the western side of the city) and from there we hiked Rucu Pichincha.
the path continues...hiking Rucu Pichinicha
If I thought the weather varied a lot in Quito, it was even crazier here. When we first arrived on top of the mountain, we had to put on a few layers, but as we started hiking (with signs everywhere not to run--the air is a lot thinner so it's harder to get used to and do physical activity; you've got to be careful) it grew warmer. Though it was a cloudy day, since we were even closer to the sky as usual, it got hot. Eventually it cooled down again, and by the time we returned to the path to the cabinas to descend to the city again, it was beginning to hail and rain.
The hike was a lot of fun. I love being outdoors and seeing new things. The speed at which the clouds move up there was incredible and surprising. I took quite a few photos, so check out the complete selection on my webshots page. It's so strange though, because if many of the photos, I could see much clearer than my camera could capture!
On Sunday my housemate Megan and I visited the village of Atahualpa with Megan's Spanish teacher (who is also our friend), Christina. About two hours north of Quito, we left super early in the morning...I woke up at 4:47am to get ready to go--up before the sun. We arrived around 9am to Christina's family home, had a snack (including queso fresco Christina's mom María had made the day before from their cows) and toured their land and met some of the animals. Christina's mother, father and brother live and work their farm. They have 7 cows, 1 horse, dozens of hens, chicks and roosters, a handful of rabbits, a dozen or so guinea pigs, some other birds, a few dogs and puppies!!, and a cat. It's a busy place. They also grow 2 types of corn--one for the animals, and one for them.
Then we went out to explore the town. Every moment I was amazed by the beauty of this village. Natural beauty energizes me.
With greenery everywhere, trees, mountains, a river...pretty much everything I could ask for. We were walking toward the river when a pickup truck going in our direction offered us a ride--this is a primary mode of transport in town. If a truck is going in your direction, you just hop in the bed and hold on tight. We took a roundabout route to the river so we were able to tour most of the higher parts of town. It was so beautiful I wished I could sprout a third arm to take pictures while my other two were busy holding on, keeping myself in the truck. At times we stopped to pick up other passengers and it got pretty cozy back there.
Eventually we ended our joy ride and hiked down to the river, then descended the slippery, muddy rock face to get to the riverbed. Christina and Megan were adventurous enough to brave crossing the river, jumping from rock to rock, but I chose to take the high road--crossing the rotting fallen log bridge that lay across the river while documenting their progress. Christina was sure footed, but Megan fell a few times, ending up with drenched boots. She was a trooper though!
We arrived back at home in time for lunch: soup (with freshly slaughtered chicken on the side to accomodate my vegetarian habit--how sweet!), rice and broccoli salad. Yum. We also had fresh apple cider. Delish.
The reason we went home with Christina this weekend was because it was the beginning of their town's patron saint/virgin celebration. During lunch, the fireworks started going off to tell the townspeople the beginning of the fesitivities were nearing. The band had already begun to play and the procession in progress by the time we got there, but we joined in the parade of dance performers, band members, and virgen memorial carriers down to the town church and park.
the youngest group's dancers
Along the way, we said hello to each person we came across and greeted multiple uncles and cousins we ran into along the way. We then attended mass, to celebrate the virgen and officially begin the celebratory month. Afterwards there were dance performances by different classes in the local school, each performing a different traditional dance. It was great to see.
I loved this small town life! It was also great because Megan and I were to only gringas in sight for most of the day. A few others live there, apparently volunteering to support tourism (but they're not doing too great so far since we're the only non-locals they've seen since they arrived).
After the dances and music commenced, we met some of Christina's other family--her sister Anita and Christina's nieces, one of whom performed in one of the dances. After jovial conversation in the park, Christina, her niece Irma, Megan and I went to the cemetary to visit the grave of Christina's brother who died as a child. Unfortunately, the gate was locked. Instead, we climbed over the walls and went on with our business. Cemetaries in Ecuador are a little different from ones I've visited in the States. In this cemetary there was the traditional structure in which the remains are protected and each grave has a memorial window to give respect and honor to the deceased, sometimes with photographs or knickknacks, flowers or sweets. Things to remember the dead. Since el día de los difuntos wasn't long ago, most of the graves were freshly visited and decorated, though they may always be so, I'm not sure. There were also graves more similar to graves in the states, with the deceased buried in the ground with some sort of headstone. This cemetary also had a maze of carved hedges. It was beautiful and I enjoyed visiting it. By the time we left, others had entered the cemetary as well and we were able to borrow a key to let ourselves out, rather than hoist ourselves over the 6 ft walls again.
We spent a bit more time in the town center, playing fooseball in the street, eating ice cream, and socializing before the bus ride back to Quito. I had so much fun in this village, I didn't want to leave at all. All of Christina's family was so sweet and welcoming. The culture in this village was amazing. Everyone was friendly and interested in us and wanting to learn more about us. This is the Ecuadorian culture I was expecting all along, and I finally found it. Warm, welcoming, loving.
written by  Theresa on November 14, 2008 from Atahualpa, Ecuador

crime on the rise
Going into this experience, I knew that Quito was not a safe city. But really, what city is truly safe?
Petty crime (mostly pickpocketing) is rampant in Quito. It's a known problem and has been for years. However, over the last month we've heard more stories of violent crimes. Each moment on the street I must have my guard up and am constantly looking around to see who my company is. Paranoia has taken over my life.
Also within the last week there have been too many experiences to relate of people I know being robbed, pickpocketed, assaulted, etc. It's not so much fun.
For any of you who are in Quito, or planning on visiting, don't be detered from visiting--this city has many wonderful things. Just be really careful. It gets dark at 6, so even though 730 seems like a safe time to still be walking on the street, watch your surroundings and take a cab if possible--it has proven to be unsafe to be on the street at this time.
For me, living in a city has many perks. I love being able to walk around and see what's going on in my neighborhood, or walk to the market to get my veggies or meet friends for a juice or coffee. But the security of a cab ride is preferable to a paranoid walk down the street with the same end goal. Plus, cabs are relatively cheap here--with a minimum of a dollar in the daytime (about a 5 minute ride costs a dollar) and a dollar-fifty starting at 10pm, it's a good choice.
The moral of the story: keep your eyes open, use your brain, and take a cab.
written by  Theresa on November 15, 2008 from Quito, Ecuador

a day at the artisan market
Otavalo, Ecuador
walking through the handicraft stalls
The most famous artisan market in Ecuador, and a must-see for most tourists, is the market in the small town of Otavalo. This town is comprised primarily of indigenous people and I believe is the only town of it's size to have an indigenous mayor. For this reason, the artisan craft market is very important to the town and the money spent there actually goes to the people responsible for providing these goods and helping out with the town. It's great.
We hopped on a few buses and headed north about 2 hours to Otavalo, were dropped on the side of the road and proceeded to follow the many locals schlepping their goods to the market. Though I arrived with four others, we nearly immediately separated and went around the market in smaller, safer groups. I meandered through the market with my housemate, Megan. Stalls after stalls after stalls of goods, mostly the same things over and over. Alpaca sweaters, blankets, gloves, scarves, ponchos. Knit sweaters, ponchos, gloves, hats, scarves, slippers, socks, etc. Bags of all sizes, ranging from carry-on size duffle bags (in all colors) to tiny change purses (the size of a small matchbox). Instruments, gourds, carved figurines, ceramic teapots weaved into baskets (my favorite had a snake as the spout). Chess sets, crucifixes, pipes, jewelry galore. Panama hats, fedoras, leather cowboy/Indiana Jones hats, knit caps. Scarves of all colors, lengths, textures, materials, qualities. Hammocks, guitars, vegetable magnets, serving trays, table cloths, tapestries. Colors everywhere--it was intense. Also in tents. =)
spices, grains, herbs
Another common craft is reprints or artist renditions of the works of the world-famous painter Oswaldo Guayasamín. These are everywhere, and found in many places around Quito as well. This artist has many styles but the most commonly known are those that portray the suffering of Latin America's indigenous poor and their hope for a better future. These prints can be disturbing or deeply moving.
We had a busy day of haggling and shopping, bumping into others we knew along the way, and then losing them again. We even ran into our friend Felim's fellow volunteers when Meg and I sat down to lunch--they'd lost him nearly immediately after reaching the market, and we'd seen him briefly an hour previous. Meg also saw a guy with whom she went to university. Crazy.
Another fun part of this day, other than the extreme color stimulation and shopper's high, was running into some people from Ibarra. Meg and I were approached by a group of four students from an English school in their city, 30 miutes from Otavalo. Apparently, they come down each Saturday (the only day this huge market runs) to practice their English with tourists. We chatted for 15 minutes or so and were invited to visit them and be guided around at any time. They were very sweet.
After a long day of shopping, Meg and I found the bus station, hopped on, chatted for a while and took a nice snooze before we got back to Quito. A good day, overall.
written by  Theresa on November 16, 2008 from Otavalo, Ecuador

my week at a glance
Each day this week, on top of the usual workload and planning, I had other errands, classes or meetings to attend. It's been rather exhausting. Unfortunately, my weekend plans do not include relaxing.
Yesterday I went to buy my ticket to the Juanes concert. He's playing at Estadio Atahualpa, the olympic stadium downtown. I'm psyched. It was unusual though, because the place to go buy tickets is a department store. When we arrived there, we were a bit confused but followed the crowd and saw the line forming at a register downstairs. It all worked out.
In a few minutes I'm meeting up with my expedition crew to discuss the details for our weekend--ascending Cotopaxi, the second highest peak in Ecuador. It's going to be intense and I hope I can make it all the way. I'm going with Felim, Phil and Mike; I should be able to keep up with the boys...I'm pretty tough. Though, I've never done such an extreme hiking trip. Granted, it'll only be one night/day, but geared up in many layers of warm clothes, cramp ons for my boots, and ice pick in hand. It'll be an adventure, that's for sure--and is one of the things I most wanted to do while I am here. So let's hope it all goes well, and actually happens. Currently the weather report for tomorrow is okay, but if anything changes, the hike will not be possible.
Cross your fingers for me!

no te vayas, vida de mi corazon
Last night after work, we piled into cabs and found ourselves at the olympic stadium (though they've never held the Olympics in Ecuador...) with music eminating from the interior. Outside the main entrance were many of the ususual suspects--people of all ages standing in clusters, ticket scalpers roaming about screaming for buyers, women & children selling candy & cigarettes, and policemen mounted on horseback. A normal Friday night, no?
Since we arrived around 730/8, most of the general admission sections were already full, so we kept being turned away from entrance doors and directed to keep on toward the farthest entrance. Finally we got in and made our way through the lobby filled with food vendors--popcorn, salchipapas (hot dogs fried with fries), slabs of assorted meats, sanduches, foot-long hot dogs with more toppings than I can name and hamburguesas. We sauntered into the packed stadium and were on the lookout for our friends and seats. We found Meadhbh first and after a lot of back and forth between seats and other areas within our section, we all ended up in the first row of the second section back--pretty sweet seats really, except for all the traffic bumping into us (especially since I was also sitting on the stair aisle.
Along with the food vendors stationed in the lobbies, there were hundreds of vendors walking around with their merchandise. More of the same food, plus cigarettes & candy boxes, soda, coffee, beer ("cerveza, buena cerveza..."), chips, juanes commemorative pins and posters, glow in the dark sticks, light-up devil horns and light sabers, and rain ponchos.
We lucked out weather wise.
us at the concert
It's hard to find a break from the rain sometimes, but during out time in the stadium it only drizzled briefly--enough for most of my compatriots to buy the $2 cheap plastic ponchos (I brought my umbrella, of course) or whip out their own.
Music wise, I'm not sure how many bands played in total, but there were at least representatives from Mexico, Colombia and Ecuador. During my 5 hours, I saw 3 bands perform. I think the first performer was Jose Luis del Hierro, who put on a great show and had lots of funny coats...at one point he could have passed for a disco ball.
The next band can best be described as an 80's hair cover tribute band, complete with outrageous hair, head bands, leather vests and pants, and synchronized routines. They also had smoke and fire jets as well as fireworks to really liven up their set.
Juanes
Finally Juanes appeared (probably close to 1145/midnight by now) and got right into it, playing many of my favorite songs. I was out of my seat in an instant, thankful for all the room sitting in the first row granted me. Dancing, singing, serenading my friends, getting strange looks from passersby, etc. I was having a blast! He played a great mixture of old and new songs, which I really appreciated. What a great live performer!
During his encore, he brought out the VicePresident of Ecuador who gave a speech about how awesome Juanes is and all he does for Latin America. He awarded Juanes with the title of Ambassador of Happiness, Peace and Solidarity.
A few songs later into the encore, he broke out a sweet salsa beat and people all over the stadium paired up and were dancing...in aisles, stairwells, the field below, you name it! It was really cool to see all the movement of the salsa dancers. Then, we decided that with the amount of people in the stadium, it would probably be a good thing to get out a bit before them so we could actually get a cab and not be stuck in the chaos of the stadium clearing out. Great choice. I was sad to miss the last song or two, but glad to find a cab to bring me him almost immediately...and at a reasonable price! Since this was bound to be a busy night for taxis, many drivers were jacking up the prices to ridiculous, insulting levels because they could--they knew everyone would need a ride home and there would be much competition for cabs, so passing up a cab wouldn't be a smart decision. Luckily, the driver Emily and I found was very sweet and easy to haggle with (even though his initial offer was decent, it's no fun if you don't converse about it a bit, and get it down a dollar or two).
After a long night of sitting, waiting, singing and dancing I was surprisingly energized and kept replaying the songs in my head and dancing some more. This was a night to remember.
(disclaimer: the title of this entry is inspired by a Juanes song....though at the time I can't recall the title)

high hopes, foiled adventures, and a volcano
Machachi, Ecuador
driving into Cotopaxi National Park
Cotopaxi National Park: Last Saturday, this was the destination of Felim, Phil, Mike and I. The park itself was beautiful; great landscapes, beautiful trees, and of course the view of the volcano wasn't bad either. However we had a few glitches with the weekend.
1) We hired guides through Felim's host family, and they turned out not to be the best. They showed up at our rendezvous about an hour late because they were chuchaqui.
2) The place we rented gear from was understocked (because of the great weather/climbing conditions) and we got the bottom of the barrel goods.
3) An extra guide and climber piled in our van to travel to the park. Normally this would be fine, but the guide didn't stop talking for the entire trip about his climbing triumphs.
4) My recurring illnesses decided to rear their ugly heads again and I found myself ill by the time we reached the park. For this reason, I decided not to go out for the ice climbing, not wanting part of the group to have to turn back because in my weak/ill state I couldn't manage the physical exertion of the hike.
5) 3 hours after the midnightish departure for the hike, the first of my group returned--Phil's boot was ill-fitting and digging into his shin, making the hike painful. He had to turn back with one of the guides.
6) Shortly after Phil's return, Felim and Mike were back in our bunks as well--Mike's cramp-on came off during the ascent. Due to the ill-fit of the cramp-on to the boot, it would be unsafe to continue. Alas, the rest of the team had to turn back.
7) Even without the equipment malfunctions, due to the high traffic of climbers this weekend, there were some traffic jams as the 100+ hikers and guides tried to all ascend the same trail to the summit--the crater--and reach this peak by daybreak (supposedly a spectacular view).
I think that's all. It's unfortunate that our plan did not go as planned. We went in with such high hopes and returned with our egos crushed, adventures foiled, and deprived of sleep. Overall, I give this weekend 1/5 stars (at least I had good company and scenery).
Upon return to Quito, I embarked on my next adventure: the hospital. I finally stopped being stubborn and went to get checked out--enough is enough. They were very kind and efficient, and apparently I have a bacterial infection. I'm on antibiotics now--hopefully they'll make me feel better. However all the tests cost a small fortune (Ecuador standards) so I've got to figure out my insurance paperwork so I can be reimbursed, inshallah.
Once I get some photos, I'll share. Until then, be well.
written by  Theresa on November 26, 2008 from Machachi, Ecuador

turkeys in Ecuador?
Turkeys aren't so popular, though I know they exist and some people will be eating them.
This year for Thanksgiving--a small Thanksgiving meal with my housemates (Megan, Ellie, and Liza) when I finally get out of here tonight. Then an ELF! date with Liz back home...a wonderful Thanksgiving tradition.
the feast!
Also, tomorrow night we'll have a more proper, huge holiday meal (more like a potluck, but with some typical turkey-day food). But it's the company that matters, right? It's bound to be a night full of food, friends, new friends, laughter and chaos.
"old friends"
"new friends"
We ended up having an obscene amount of food, and 2 types of mashed potatoes which of course spurred a spuds contest (between Lisa and our native Irish Felim)--both delicious, but believe it or not, California's very own Lisa beat out the Irish. Woot. With people from all over our social lives, and a few different countries, it was an interesting and wonderful night. The Ecuadorians there enjoyed their first Thanksgivings.
It was a very nice gathering full of food, laughter, stories, songs and sing-alongs (thanks to my very musical friends who amongst them have 2 guitars and a ukelele).
Thanksgiving in Ecuador also brought a hailing thunderstorm on my walk to work, followed by torrential downpours 10 minutes later, and then 10 minutes after that a beautifully clear sky. Crazy.
Hope you all enjoyed your holiday!

how to?: a step by step account of a package coming to Ecuador
I always find a mailing address rather helpful, so I made sure to secure one before coming down to Ecuador, in case I should need any mail. I have successfully received post cards, letters, absentee ballots and packages. However, you never can tell when things will arrive, or how long it'll take for something to get to you once it's entered the country.
Case study: a package from my parents
1) Package sent from the US on October 31st.
2) Package arrives in Ecuador on November 5th (not bad!).
3) Package hangs out in a back room somewhere for a while.
4) A form is filled out informing me about the arrival of this package, November 10th.
5) Form receives the stamp of approval, November 11th.
6) The form gets lost somewhere, misplaced, stuck on the bottom of some pile.
7) The package and the form comunicate disgruntally about the efficiency of this process.
8) The package and the form twiddle their nonexistant thumbs.
9) The package and the form sit idly, plotting their revenge or escape plan.
10) The package and the form go into a hibernation state.
11) The form finally gets delivered to me, December 3rd, after the post office is already closed for business.
12) December 4th, I go to the post office.
13) The cashier takes my form, 2 copies of my identification, and a tax for receiving the package and stamps my form. He then gives it to someone else.
14) I sit on the bench and wait for my name to be called. They look for my package.
15) I am called and brought into the back room where all the packages are stored on floor to ceiling industrial shelves.
16) The postal clerk opens the package to check it's contents. "Clothes?" no, it's a bag. "Peanuts?" and other nuts. "What's all this?" that's just extra packaging, padding.
17) He puts everything back, tapes the box up, and hands me the customs forms. Tells me to follow him.
18) I bring the box along with me.
19) He sees me with the box and tells me to put it back.
20) We go to a desk and get more paperwork.
21) I have to go get a copy of the paperwork and come back to give it to them (and a rip off too, since the copy places near the post office have higher prices because they know people will need copies there, at that moment....a whole 5 cents for a page--ridiculous compared to my usual 2 cent rate).
22) Give the copy and the original paperwork to another postal clerk.
23) This new clerk gets out the package register and I sign for the package.
24) The clerk tries to pronounce my middle name. "Oh, like Luis!"
25) We go back into the holding cell, he continues reciting my name, and I claim my booty.
26) He wishes me a good day, and I return the sentiment.
27) I go home and immediately start eating trail mix. Woot.
Moral of the story, getting mail is taxing and time consuming. Though all in all, once I was notified of the arrival of the package, it only took me an hour at the post office to get my package, which isn't so bad. I've heard of people spending 2-3 hours getting packages before. I was truely fortunate--if only the other package I know was sent was there....ho hum. Another adventure awaits me another day.
written by  Theresa on December 4, 2008 from Quito, Ecuador

Quiteña for the weekend
Quiteños really love to festejar. Officially, December 6th is the independence day of Quito, so starting a little over a week before this date, the parties and events began. There have been many cultural events: art exhibitions, musical performances, wine tastings, dance performances, bull fights, etc. For over a week, we had parades in different parts of town every day. Walking around I ran into a few of them, and watched some floats go by. My favorite was passing by a group of kids from a preschool all sitting with their teachers watching the parade--they were so excited, and clapping and smiling. Adorable.
However, the most popular form of celebration during fiestas del Quito is the chiva. A chiva is a double-decker, open-air bus that drives around the city. On the top deck, there is usually a live band playing the traditional chiva big-band music. On the lower deck, there are as many people as can fit (with at least one apendage holding on to the bus) drinking, yelling, waving flags, blowing whistles, and having a merry ole time. Since the end of November, you can't go anywhere without running into a chiva, or hearing one somewhere in the vecinity. During my 4-6 class, each time one would drive by, my students would start clapping and cheering in rhythm with the music outside. They also have tried to convince me, on multiple occasions, that chivas are a form of public transit--do no be fooled. These party buses are rather prevalent at the moment, but really are only around during fiestas del Quito. Soon, they will become extinct until next November/December.
Though I enjoy the music of chivas passing by, I did not partake in this Quiteño tradition, nor the tradition of attending the bull fights. Though many people I have talked with here are against the bull fights, or at least the killing of the bulls, most will still attend because of the festive atmosphere you can find in the Plaza del Toros. I'll just take their word for it--not quite my scene.
However I did celebrate this city's independence in other ways. Thursday after my night class got out, I met up with Megan and Cristina at Central University to attend a party thrown by Cristina's faculty. Each major had their own party at the unviersity that night. We were at the psychology party and were quickly adopted into a group of 3rd year Clinical Psych students. Before I got there, there was a pageant. Once I arrived, the DJ had just finished setting up his station and the music was roaring. We were dancing in an instant, pulled into different circles and conga lines and group dances, as well as the traditional salsa and reggaeton beats. The DJ was leading dancing contests, and contests for the group having the most fun, and other such competitions; our group won quite a few of them--they were quite festive.
Eventually, the director of the school decided he didn't want everyone there anymore, so the campus was flooded with people leaving and heading to new locations to keep on celebrating. Meg, Cristina, José and I found this dive kareoke bar that apparently they like. It was pretty much deserted when we got there, but filled up quite nicely during our stay. We four took over a nice corner of couches and enjoyed each others company as well as the entertainment of others singing. This wasn't regular kareoke either--it was more like the video game that scores you when you're done, depending on accuracy I imagine. There was one girl who was really into it, and didn't get that great of scores and needed to be calmed down by her boyfriend. It was kinda hilarious.
We all took part in the merriment that is kareoke as well--including my debut of kareoke in Spanish. Of course, I chose a Juanes song. Then Meg and I deuted with No Doubt's "Don't Speak" and got the highest score of the night that far--95.5--pretty sweet. Then the rest of our group finished out another 5 songs or so. All throughout the night, the owner was very attentive, making sure we had what we needed. This bar was quite out of the way, and I don't think they were used to having that many people there. He also flagged us down taxis when we left and got us fair prices, which was great (though my haggling skills usually do the trick).
Friday, the school for which I teach declared it a holiday, since in the past students didn't show up to classes due to the heightened celebrations. Good choice. Instead, I went to Itchimbia park with Andrea and Ayla for a free concert of local bands. The park itself is gorgeous, up on a hill with a magnificent view of the city.
Itchimbia park .... incredible location!
The music was alright, but as is typical in Quito, the weather just doesn't hold. We left as soon as the sun started to hide, walked down to the EcoVia bus, and got inside the stop shelter just as the hail started to pelt everything on it's way to the ground.
Friday (the 5th) was also Phil's birthday, so I spent the afternoon making, decorating (and eating) cake with my friends in that apartment. We also watched 2 movies and made Christmas decorations. Lisa and Colleen made some wicked sweet snowflakes. After all of those festivities, we went out for birthday dinner and then hit the streets to celebrate the independence of Quito some more. Streets all over the city are closed down because of the massive street parties. In Plaza Foch there were multiple stages erected for live music. It was packed. All the streets in the usual neighborhood where we go out were full of people and vendors.
We took to using the buddy system, to try and stay safe and together. But it was tough. Holes in the road everywhere, broken glass, bodies in drainage grates, wandering hands, and streetfights--there was a lot to pay attention to. Eventually, the crowds and craziness were just too much for me, so a few of us went to get cabs home. It was definitely an experience I haven't had before, but also not one of my favorites. Too many drunk people making poor choices. It's a really dangerous time to be out and about.
The highlight of the cultural events I attended was the ballet at the Casa de Cultura (a couple of blocks away from my house) that I was invited to by Lisa and some of her/our Ecuafriends. It was crazy though. Most things in Ecuador have a start time, and then about an hour or so later you can expect things to start to get going. However, this ballet was set to begin at 6pm, we were meeting at 530. I stood in queue with all the others there at this time (I was amazed that so many people were there early). At 545 the doors opened and the line rushed the doors, mostly in an orderly fashion. However, the line snaked around the entire foyer of this huge theater, so it wasn't the most fun snaking around, so eventually the line disentegrated and there was an even crazier rush to the door. However, at that time, I still hadn't found my companions. Some were in a cab on the way, and the others I hadn't found. With the help of a few phone calls, Maria Fernanda came out to get me and introduced me to her other friends that were attending with us. For the half hour before the ballet began, I had very nice conversation with the other Ecuadorians there (Diego, Jenny, Fatima) in our group, and oogled the adorable babe (maybe 16 months) sitting in front of me. And then, miraculously, at 6pm, the doors shut and the ballet began. It was the strangest thing!
The ballet was Don Quixote, however it wasn't quite the story I remember from the excerpts I've read over the years. Quixote plays a very minor role, just kind of there awkwardly watching for the most part. But the principal characters/dancers were incredible. The sets and costumes were beautiful. I was thoroughly entertained for 2 hour duration of this ballet. Definitely my favorite so far (though I've only seen 3 ballets, so I don't have too much to compare to....unless you count ballet in movies as seeing ballets, then it's more). If you ever get a chance, see this beautiful ballet!
written by  Theresa on December 7, 2008 from Quito, Ecuador

the end of being in the middle
This week was the end of my teaching cycle, and full of reviewing, grading and lots of paperwork. A good experience overall. The language institute for which I worked is great. A wonderful group of people, very supportive and understanding. I will miss it there a little. But I miss kids more, so I've got to get back to my usual kind of teaching...and so the job hunt begins.
Along with the various job errands I've been running all week, I also was finishing up everything I needed to do in the city, getting a few last presents, and some more sightseeing. My frind Lisa works at a high school outside the city so is gone all day; however, her friend Abby was visiting this week so I was enlisted as tour guide/companion for her time here. This meant I got a partner in crime. I was able to go to the last things in the city that I wanted to do, and also was a repeat offender at some others that Abby wanted to visit. Pretty awesome.
Repeats: Basilica (sweet architecture, church, dangerous ladders), Guayasamín Foundation (always a good time...and this time I remembered my camera! woot...photos to come later), La Compania de Jesús (very decorated old church), Mitad del Mundo (both the indigenous museum and the monument park), Heladería San Agustin, and general Centro Histórico adventures.
New stuff: La Capilla del Hombre (the other Guayasamín museum that I've been dying to go to), Museo San Francisco, and a volcanic crater hike near Mitad del Mundo.
La Capilla del Hombre is a gallery of Guayasamín's work that he designed and had erected before his death (1999). He created it as a place for many emotions, peaceful contemplation, and provocative thought. The gallery itself is impressive. A huge building and viewing space. The collection of his works is also diverse and beautiful. We also had a great guide--knowledgeable and kind (Oscar greeted us on the street when we passed him). Some reasons why I love Guayasamín: he brought recognition to Ecuador and the social issues present in this country, he cared about world issues and created pieces in reaction to world events from nearly every continent--overall social responsibility, his use of color and shadows in unexpected and beautiful ways, and his representation of people and emotions. Check out his "hands" series if you get a chance.
In the Museo de San Francisco we checked out some more religious art and accidentally wandered into the private living spaces of some of the monks who live there. Woops. Pretty cool though, and beautiful gardens within this monastery.
After visiting the usul tourist attraction in Mitad del Mundo, we ventured further down the road to visit the Mirador de Ventanillas--an overlook point for this volcanic crater and some trails through the crater, without actually entering the national park there. I'm sure it would be gorgeous on a clear day, but by this time it was cloudy and foggy, so the view wasn't was nice but still a great experience. I just love being outdoors and breathing fresh air--not easily done in the city!
It was also ridiculous weather this week. Usually, they say that December is one of the worst months, in reference to the rainy season. However, the sun was out nearly every morning and into the afternoon. Gorgeous.
We also had a holiday party this week at my friend's apartment, including fresh Christmas tree and a yankee swap. The gift I ended up with was actually quite fitting for me this week--a box of tissues. As is usually is, each time my teaching ends and vacation begins, I get a cold. Not as bad as last year though, so for this I am thankful. Hopefully it'll clear up completely before our family beach vacation--they were not appreciative of me getting them sick last year, so I hope I can avoid that this time!
written by  Theresa on December 11, 2008 from Quito, Ecuador

my last days on the equator
Yesterday was my last full day in this beautiful country. It is so unreal. I know that I am leaving today, but it just doesn't seem real. Though I'm excited to be going back to see family and friends, it will be quite different from living in Ecuador and I will miss certain things about my life here.
To celebrate the last moments with my friends here we organized a picnic at Parque Itchimbia--the beautiful park that overlooks the city. I'd wanted to have a picnic there since July when I read about it in a guide book. Finally, Mission accomplished. It was a beautiful day, great food and wonderful company. Along with the usual crew (or at least the ones that aren't off traveling at the moment), a few of our Ecuafriends came along. I also ran into another acquanitance upon entering the park and saw another set of friends there as well. You really can't go anywhere without bumping into somebody!
Anyhow, the picnic was a great success, and we got out, again, just in time to beat the rain.
To keep with tradition, we had my goodbye dinner at Crepes & Waffles. Each Sunday, we'd go to brunch at the restaurant but to accommodate both the picnic and my friend Andrea who was returning for my sendoff, we had a delicious dinner there instead. I think I'll have to visit the crepe place up in Burlington again when I return home. =)
After dinner and a final goodbye to my friends with whom I don't live, I curled up on the couch and watched a movie with my housemate. Overall, a great last day (mostly packing and eating...at least the eating part is fun).
Now I'm sitting at the airport, awaiting my departure. Originally I was to depart around 10am, however my flight is delayed so my long day of traveling has now gotten longer.

food, fabulous food
New York, United States
So another whirlwind trip has passed, this time in NYC visiting my sister Liz's new place in Manhattan. So lovely. We did a lot of things, mostly planned around food. There are so many restaurants and cuisines scattered around the city, we tried to get a good variety (and by good variety, I mean we had Thai twice because it was so good the first time) including: Thai, Indian, Vegetarian, Belgian fries with dipping sauces (25 flavors!) and some homemade delicacies as well.
We also walked through Central Park (in the snow...and rain...and ice/hail), went to the New Museum, to the MOMA during the free Friday night event, to see a movie and to get a general overview of her neighborhood.
So nice to see my sis again. And experience NYC as an adult...since I haven't been there in years, it's quite a different experience now. And I LOVE IT!
It's such a different city from the city in which I was just living (Quito). The public transit is quick and clean (for the most part) and safe too...that's a big difference. And easy to get around, even walking place to place is just fine. Cabs are pricey (especially compared to cabs in Ecuador) but they're rarely needed, so it works out fine.
After a quick visit, into which we packed as much as possible, it was time to leave deep in the night/morning hours to get to the airport for the next leg of my whirlwind trip.
written by  Theresa on December 19, 2008 from New York, United States

A Blast from the Past
Boston, United States
A long day of traveling from South America back up to northern North America, and I found myself in one piece, and in peace in Boston.
After finally finished all the usual unpacking nuisances, I was able to run a few errands and meet up with some friends from high school. Only seeing them once or twice a year, it's so nice to be able to catch up again.
After a short 2 days, it was time to pack up and leave again. And thus began my whirlwind trip.
written by  Theresa on December 17, 2008 from Boston, United States

in the land of sea and sun
Potters Village, Antigua and Barbuda
Down in the tiny island of Antigua (roughly 100 Miles²), my family and I are spending our Christmas holiday together in one of the island's harbors. Soaking up the sun, enjoying the beautiful mountain and ocean views, and having a few adventures along the way.
So far, we encountered about 3/4 of the population of Antigua in the capitol city doing Christmas shopping. This, of course, led to serious traffic jams and it took us 1.5 hours to travel roughly 9 Miles. Poor planning on our part.
Also, during the few forays into the sea both my mother and I have managed to be stung by jellyfish. Ouch. I was stung twice this morning; once so badly that once out of the water you could see the tentacle marks around my shin/ankle as a burning white mark. Now it's calmed down, no longer leaving me writhing in pain, only a raised red irritation. Quite unusual, though. Hopefully I will not encounter any more jellyfish on this trip (or ever...or at least not when they can sting me).
written by  Theresa on December 23, 2008 from Potters Village, Antigua and Barbuda

Itchimbia park .... incredible location!

Cotopaxi after a huge snowstorm (rain in Quito)

Juanes

us at the concert

"old friends"

the feast!

"new friends"

Andrea was a champ on those stairs

the path continues...hiking Rucu Pichinicha

Quito from great heights

ascending to Rucu Pichincha

Virgen de Quito

inside the virgen statue

view of the city from Panecillo

a tarantula on my front door

vegetable market...very similar to the market I buy my veggies at in Quito

spices, grains, herbs

view from the truck

casada from which i jumped

Pailón del Diablo

view from our hostel

GREEN!

all geared up and ready to go

a nice, chilly bath

repelling down the rock face

humpbacks...I named them Dorotea and Felix

the beach, a little overcast

Christina's house & land behind

Megan & Christina's river crossing

Christina & I

María, Irma, Christina, Jaime

the youngest group's dancers

driving into Cotopaxi National Park