South Korea, 2008-2009 - Rachel in Korea!
Welcome to my life in South Korea! I'll be here for a year, so hopefully by the end the blog will be as full and rich as the country that it is written about. Wish me luck in my adventures...

First Email Home
Yangju, South Korea
The weekend ended up holding innumerable adventures. After the internet cafe on Saturday, Adam and I walked through one portion of the downtown of Yangju to get back to the Lotte Mart from the night before. After taking inventory of my apartment, I realized that I had forgotten some of the essentials, the first being a towel! As much fun as air drying is in the summer heat, my guess is that my feelings will change come the Korean winter. The downtown of Yangju (which actually means 'Western liquor' in Korean) is luckily enough right up the hill from our building. Oh, the location of the building is in a really interesting part of town. While the majority of Koreans in any sort of urban area live in high rise apartment complexes, we live in a little village within a big city. There is only one tall building, and the rest don't exceed five stories. Some buildings are apartment structures, some are really old, small, one-story houses.
View of the street by our building from the fourth floor
My aparment is in one of the newer buildings, on the second floor. And luckily enough, my view is of the windowless side wall of the tall one. I really don't mind, because I still get a lot of light and the windows in the hallway have an amazing view of the neighborhood, but it's still funny! Oh, and throughout all of the buildings are little shops with apartments upstairs. They're all little cafes and markets. But when I say cafe, don't think of a Panera, but instead of a little room with a couple of tables and one person doing the cooking and serving, usually (from what I can tell) to their family members and close friends.
Back to the trek to Lotte Mart. There is a marshy, stream-like river that runs through the city, cutting off what seems to be the older half from the newer. The newer half is full of tall apartment buildings, meant to consolidate space in such a high region of the country.
View of the highrises of our city from the train station
After walking through the older downtown, we crossed the river and managed to get to the store. I bet it was at least a half hour walk. On the way we kept seeing spiders the size of silver dollars (NO exageration) dangling from the telephone wires, and I was so so scared that one was going to fall on my shoulder. Silly perhaps, but I have never in my life seen spiders so big, and was beyond freaked out. We spent a couple of hours at the store, getting necessities like plastic silverware (which we later saw said meant for outside dessert parties) and the like. I wanted to buy shampoo, but was once again accosted by a saleslady who tried to sell me literally FIVE tubs of Pantene Pro-V. She wouldn't let me take anything else, and I couldn't tell her I would never use that much even over a year, so in the end I accepted her generous sales offer (she even shoved a kitchen sponge in the tape as an added bonus!) only to drop the shampoo in the wine section of the grocery store. Oh, and the funniest part is we had to walk past her again to get to the registers, and she looked in the cart, didn't see the Pantene, and scowled as we walked by. I guess not all Koreans will be my friends.
Yesterday we took the train into downtown Seoul for the day. Imagine two Americans trying to figure out the subway system without even a map to guide them! Luckily, we got smart and paged up "map" in Adam's dictionary and managed to the the map that had 'FOREIGNER' stamped in big letters on practically every side. It was only about a fourty minute train ride to the center (or what we thought was) of Seoul, which really wasn't that bad. We quickly saw the Korean culture at work, as the train was practically an example of musical chairs. Anytime a person got on that was older than someone sitting down, the younger person would stand up, the older would sit down, and so the cycle would repeat. So if a still older person got on at the next, the only kind of old person would get up and give up their seat. Hilarious to watch, but a great reminder of the different culture we are in. As a side note, we've been getting a lot of looks for being Westerners. None of them have been in a bad way, but more of like a curiousity. Without coming off in a bad way, I guess I'm used to it in a sense for already having been a girl in a city, but Adam is absolutely loving it. He keeps smiling and laughing as everyone stares. Too funny!
Once in Seoul, we walked through a random plant market that went on for blocks and blocks before turning to attempt to get downtown. This attempt became an all-day ordeal, as all of the roads kept winding up, down, and around mountains within the city and we had no exact directions on where to go. We ended up climbing a mountain that had the National Assembly of Music or something of the sort on top, along with a HUGE building the specialized in weddings! It even had a photo booth where newly married couples could wait in line to get their pictures taken. Very different from home. Once we got on the other side, after about an hour, we hit an area called Itewon, or something similar, which is where many American military and their families go for a taste of home. Imagine the weirdest place in an American downtown you've been, and multiply it by, a lot. Some of the stores were in English on the main street, still with the winding alleys off of each side, yet there were American restaurant chains at the center. Stuff like Papa Johns, Quiznos, Outback Steakhouse, Coldstone, the list could keep going. Yet the majority of the people were still Korean who apparently come to the area to sightsee. In their own city. There were also a lot of French bistro-themed restaurants, surprisingly enough. We strolled down a street lined with tiny antique shops (Mom, you would have freaked) to get down to the really windy old section of the city. I was so amazed by how tiny many of the streets were, with shops and signs lining alleys that had clothes hanging from one to the other. SO cool! I know that Seoul advertises itself as a modern and advanced city, which is true, but there iss still a large physical history. We never made it to the modern downtown, but I had more fun meandering through the web of the past than I think I could have had in the concrete grid. We ended up getting to the river and strolling in a park that was created directly underneath the highway, but right on the water. I've never seen such a better use of space, but I guess in a city that has no choice to build out but only up, it made perfect sense. The end of the day was spent in search of the coveted metro station that would get us home, which ended up being in no joke, the biggest mall I've ever seen in my life. So big that they had an outdoor concert area on the top. HUGE!
Nam Mun Middle School, where I teach
Both Nam Mun Middle and High Schools
Nam Mun Middle School!
I'm currently at my new school. The one English teacher at the middle school that I will be working with is gone for the day, so I've had a lot of fun learning new Korean words and practicing my international hand sign language all day. I really don't have anything to do, they told me to sit at my desk and amuse myself, and just gave me my official work laptop a little bit ago. So naturally, I'm emailing you guys. They encouraged me to do so. But so weird, get this, instead of each teacher having their individual classroom, all the students have their assigned rooms, and the teachers move around to whichever class they have to teach. So, each teacher has one assigned subject, and they all share a big room with the vice principle for desk space. And I have my very own desk. Oh yeah! Not only a bigger apartment but a personal desk. Obviously moving up in the world! :) They've all tried to be accommodating to someone who can't speak their language. I think I've received five soft drinks from the desks of different teachers, pineapple cookies, a thing of highlighters, and a notebook from different people. Even though I'm learning new words faster than I can remember them, the language thing is a barrier, but one that has only added extra spark to the day. Oh, and the old art teacher showed me all of his drawings! And when I say all, I mean all five full portfolios! The school is in the countryside, about a twenty minute drive from my apartment. It's so beautiful! There are rice paddies in the fields that run up to the sides of the mountains. Really, even though this is the area in which people live, and not meant to be left natural, the combination of the high mountains surrounding every valley is absolutely breathtaking. The drive over was kind of early (8), and everything was still covered in mist. There were Korean graves interspersed in the hills and along the road with memorial temples dedicated to the wealthy. Everything here is already surpassing any expectations I previously had. And instead of a playground or area in between the middle and highschool, it's a garden. With fountains and well-kept bushes and flowers. Last thing, they have the students to the janitorial work! Bathrooms (that's an entire email in and of itself) to gardens, it's all done by students. I'll never undervalue a janitor ever again.
written by  Rachel in Korea! on August 27, 2008 from Yangju, South Korea
from the travel blog: South Korea, 2008-2009

What Might it be Like?
Seoul, South Korea
Saturday night was spent in the area next to Hongdae University in the western portion of Seoul. Known especially for its intense nightlife, the area is a magnet for young people seeking to escape from the stresses of daily life. The streets are replete with partygoers wandering from one bar to the next, filling the time in between by drinking soju from the bottle and searching for someone to share the night with. Unfortunately, with the excitement of the night, they oftentimes don't make time to dispense of their trash properly, and instead find it most convenient to simply discard their unwanted bottles and cans along the roads and alleyways. Obviously trash does not clean up itself, so the city has hired workers whose job it is to clean up after those whose messy habits created the need for the job in the first place.
An example of the crazy streets
While sitting on the side of the street, sipping on a bottle of soju ourselves, I watched a scene unfold that I most likely never forget. The events themselves were so simple, yet the ideas and questions behind what transpired seem more complex than I am able to unravel. A lady, whose appearance of age had been marred by the effects of no doubt a difficult life, was carrying out her job as the worker responsible for picking up the trash of others. While bending over to retrieve an empty bottle, a group of drunk men ran into her, pushing both her and her cart full of bottles over. The evidence of her hard work scattered across the street, and without even a backward glance, the group of men continued on their way, unabashed, unaware, and inconsiderate of the damage they had caused. Fellow observers along the street hastened to help her collect all of the waste, but many abandoned their effort as they realized the time requirement necessary to finish the job. Once it had all been collected, the woman continued down the predetermined path before her, down the road of continuity of a monotomous and unfulfilling post.
Sympathy is a word that I have come to rarely use, as oftentimes I become so wrapped up in the events of my own life that I am too busy to remain aware of the lack of equality around me. Yet, seeing this woman, I was moved to an extreme that I have not experienced in awhile. I was overcome with questions about her life circumstances, and even more so, desirous of an option that would have allowed me to help. Simultaneously, I was struck aware of the powerlessness that we as humans must face as we search for some manner in which we can evoke change in the world. This woman, whom I highly doubt has chosen her present job as the ideal of which she dreamed about as a little girl, has obviously gone into battle with life and lost. There might have been those along the way that have offered their hands to help but perhaps stopped short of what was needed. I myself was rooted to the side of the road with shame, unable to help her for fear of giving myself away. To her I was just another soju bottle, another number on the street that blended together with the rest of the party crowd. How could I have made her understand that I felt her pain more accutely than she could know? The realization of my inability to communicate with her how I felt left me stripped of my pride and painfully pensive.
She will never know the impact that she had on my night and the days to follow, but perhaps by giving her credit for a lesson learned, the unrewarding job that she must call her own can in fact be full of merit.
written by  Rachel in Korea! on August 31, 2008 from Seoul, South Korea
from the travel blog: South Korea, 2008-2009

First Email Home
Seoul, South Korea
The weekend ended up holding innumerable adventures. After the internet cafe on Saturday, Adam and I walked through one portion of the downtown of Yangju to get back to the Lotte Mart from the night before. After taking inventory of my apartment, I realized that I had forgotten some of the essentials, the first being a towel! As much fun as air drying is in the summer heat, my guess is that my feelings will change come the Korean winter. The downtown of Yangju (which actually means 'Western liquor' in Korean) is luckily enough right up the hill from our building. Oh, the location of the building is in a really interesting part of town.
View of the street by our building from the fourth floor
While the majority of Koreans in any sort of urban area live in high rise apartment complexes, we live in a little village within a big city. There is only one tall building, and the rest don't exceed five stories. Some buildings are apartment structures, some are really old, small, one-story houses. My aparment is in one of the newer buildings, on the second floor. And luckily enough, my view is of the windowless side wall of the tall one. I really don't mind, because I still get a lot of light and the windows in the hallway have an amazing view of the neighborhood, but it's still funny! Oh, and throughout all of the buildings are little shops with apartments upstairs. They're all little cafes and markets. But when I say cafe, don't think of a Panera, but instead of a little room with a couple of tables and one person doing the cooking and serving, usually (from what I can tell) to their family members and close friends.
Back to the trek to Lotte Mart. There is a marshy, stream-like river that runs through the city, cutting off what seems to be the older half from the newer.
View of the highrises of our city from the train station
After walking through the older downtown, we crossed the river and managed to get to the store. I bet it was at least a half hour walk. On the way we kept seeing spiders the size of silver dollars (NO exageration) dangling from the telephone wires, and I was so so scared that one was going to fall on my shoulder. Silly perhaps, but I have never in my life seen spiders so big, and was beyond freaked out. We spent a couple of hours at the store, getting necessities like plastic silverware (which we later saw said meant for outside dessert parties) and the like. I wanted to buy shampoo, but was once again accosted by a saleslady who tried to sell me literally FIVE tubs of Pantene Pro-V. She wouldn't let me take anything else, and I couldn't tell her I would never use that much even over a year, so in the end I accepted her generous sales offer (she even shoved a kitchen sponge in the tape as an added bonus!) only to drop the shampoo in the wine section of the grocery store. Oh, and the funniest part is we had to walk past her again to get to the registers, and she looked in the cart, didn't see the Pantene, and scowled as we walked by. I guess not all Koreans will be my friends.
Yesterday we took the train into downtown Seoul for the day. Imagine two Americans trying to figure out the subway system without even a map to guide them! Luckily, we got smart and paged up "map" in Adam's dictionary and managed to the the map that had 'FOREIGNER' stamped in big letters on practically every side. It was only about a fourty minute train ride to the center (or what we thought was) of Seoul, which really wasn't that bad. We quickly saw the Korean culture at work, as the train was practically an example of musical chairs. Anytime a person got on that was older than someone sitting down, the younger person would stand up, the older would sit down, and so the cycle would repeat. So if a still older person got on at the next, the only kind of old person would get up and give up their seat.
They're all Asian...
Hilarious to watch, but a great reminder of the different culture we are in. As a side note, we've been getting a lot of looks for being Westerners. None of them have been in a bad way, but more of like a curiousity.
Once in Seoul, we walked through a random plant market that went on for blocks and blocks before turning to attempt to get downtown. This attempt became an all-day ordeal, as all of the roads kept winding up, down, and around mountains within the city and we had no exact directions on where to go. We ended up climbing a mountain that had the National Assembly of Music or something of the sort on top, along with a HUGE building the specialized in weddings! It even had a photo booth where newly married couples could wait in line to get their pictures taken. Very different from home. Once we got on the other side, after about an hour, we hit an area called Itewon, or something similar, which is where many American military and their families go for a taste of home. Imagine the weirdest place in an American downtown you've been, and multiply it by, a lot. Some of the stores were in English on the main street, still with the winding alleys off of each side, yet there were American restaurant chains at the center. Stuff like Papa Johns, Quiznos, Outback Steakhouse, Coldstone, the list could keep going. Yet the majority of the people were still Korean who apparently come to the area to sightsee. In their own city. There were also a lot of French bistro-themed restaurants, surprisingly enough. We strolled down a street lined with tiny antique shops (Mom, you would have freaked) to get down to the really windy old section of the city. I was so amazed by how tiny many of the streets were, with shops and signs lining alleys that had clothes hanging from one to the other. SO cool! I know that Seoul advertises itself as a modern and advanced city, which is true, but there iss still a large physical history. We never made it to the modern downtown, but I had more fun meandering through the web of the past than I think I could have had in the concrete grid. We ended up getting to the river and strolling in a park that was created directly underneath the highway, but right on the water. I've never seen such a better use of space, but I guess in a city that has no choice to build out but only up, it made perfect sense. The end of the day was spent in search of the coveted metro station that would get us home, which ended up being in no joke, the biggest mall I've ever seen in my life. So big that they had an outdoor concert area on the top. HUGE!
I'm currently at my new school. The one English teacher at the middle school that I will be working with is gone for the day, so I've had a lot of fun learning new Korean words and practicing my international hand sign language all day. I really don't have anything to do, they told me to sit at my desk and amuse myself, and just gave me my official work laptop a little bit ago. So naturally, I'm emailing you guys. They encouraged me to do so. But so weird, get this, instead of each teacher having their individual classroom, all the students have their assigned rooms, and the teachers move around to whichever class they have to teach. So, each teacher has one assigned subject, and they all share a big room with the vice principle for desk space. And I have my very own desk. Oh yeah! Not only a bigger apartment but a personal desk. Obviously moving up in the world! :) They've all tried to be accommodating to someone who can't speak their language. I think I've received five soft drinks from the desks of different teachers, pineapple cookies, a thing of highlighters, and a notebook from different people. Even though I'm learning new words faster than I can remember them, the language thing is a barrier, but one that has only added extra spark to the day. Oh, and the old art teacher showed me all of his drawings! And when I say all, I mean all five full portfolios!
Nam Mun Middle School, where I teach
Both Nam Mun Middle and High Schools
Nam Mun Middle School!
The shared gymnasium in Nam Mum. Notice the mountains in the background
The school is in the countryside, about a twenty minute drive from my apartment. It's so beautiful! There are rice paddies in the fields that run up to the sides of the mountains. Really, even though this is the area in which people live, and not meant to be left natural, the combination of the high mountains surrounding every valley is absolutely breathtaking. The drive over was kind of early (8), and everything was still covered in mist. There were Korean graves interspersed in the hills and along the road with memorial temples dedicated to the wealthy. Everything here is already surpassing any expectations I previously had. And instead of a playground or area in between the middle and highschool, it's a garden. With fountains and well-kept bushes and flowers. Last thing, they have the students to the janitorial work! Bathrooms (that's an entire email in and of itself) to gardens, it's all done by students. I'll never undervalue a janitor ever again.
written by  Rachel in Korea! on September 1, 2008 from Seoul, South Korea
from the travel blog: South Korea, 2008-2009

Life continued...
Seoul, South Korea
This weekend was interesting. I ended up going into Seoul both nights to see friends, which was a lot of fun! Friday night we met up with friends from Madison that all moved over here.
The boys in Insadong
The three of them live south of Seoul, so we figured we'd meet up downtown. They chose an area called Insadong, which is known for its traditional windy streets filled with more upscale antique and souvenir shops.
We ended up at a really neat restaurant in a side alley that was traditionally decorated with light wood everywhere, paper walls, and a garden in the middle. Mmm, and then they ordered us the most yummy food! It's something called a peojong, which is like a pancake but better. I tried making one the night before out of a mix, but the directions were all in Korea, and somewhere along the line I messed up and it didn't turn out quite like I would've liked. Anyways, the one at the restaurant came out in a big griddle, about an inch thick, and full of shrimp, squid, peppers, and green onions. Sounds weird, but it is sooo tasty! To go with it they ordered traditional Korean rice wine, which is unlike anything I've ever tasted. It's kind of milky in appearance, and slightly carbonated, perhaps from the yeast? I'm not sure. I guess foreigners either love it or hate it, and so far I'm falling under the 'love' category. The best part is it's really cheap, which will be nice next to all of the expensive drinks in Seoul. The one bad thing about the night was that we had to leave pretty early, at like 10:30, because the last train to Yangju every night is at 10:45, even though almost all of the other metro lines are open until one. Poh. However, apparently there are places in Seoul caled Gingabangs, which are like hostels but nicer and extremely popular with Korean people that live outside of downtown. for roughly seven dollars, you pay to get a clean pair of pajamas and sleep on the heated floor, in traditional Korean style. I've yet to try one, but the Americans who have been here for awhile and Koreans alike swear by them as clean and safe, so I'm sure at some point in the year I will give them a try.
Cheers to melon soju!!
Saturday was equally as interesting. The highlight of the night was the kareoke hotel. Yep. I'm not sure how much you have to pay (I haven't had to worry about paying much yet), but for a certain amount, you can rent out a room that comes with a big flat screen TV, huge overstuffed comfy couches, and thousands of songs to sing to. I guess it's really really popular here to sing, all the time. So, keeping in Korean style, I sang "Sweet Caroline" and "American Pie" while eating the free ice cream that comes with the room.
Soo cool! This was also at like, 5 in the morning though so I was a bit tired to appreciate all of the different things.
I have no clue what was so funny
Either way, I know it's something that I'll want to do again at some point. We also visited a few different restaurant/bars. I don't know which to call them because even though you order some sort of alcoholic beverage to share, there is always food that comes along with the drinks. Obviously some of it has to be ordered, but apparently it's relatively unheard of to go to an establishment and drink anything alcoholic without also ordering large amounts of food to eat.
written by  Rachel in Korea! on September 1, 2008 from Seoul, South Korea

Teachers
All of the teachers have been so helpful as I become acclamated to life in a South Korean middle school. They were even nice enough to allow me to take a picture of the teacher's lounge, so that you might have a better idea where exactly I work.
Teachers' Room
written by  Rachel in Korea! on September 1, 2008 from Seoul, South Korea

Photo Shoot
I was a model today. Sort of.
I figured today would be normal. Korean class, Korean teachers, Korean dinner, Korean soju...but Korean photo shoot? My co-teacher asked me if I'd be willing to help over at the high school right next door. Of course, happy to help and eager to make a good impression and perhaps make a crack in the relatively closed off Korean society, I said of course! Then, leading me up the stairs of the high school and into the teacher's lounge, I realized something else might be coming. A man with an overly large camera for mere amusement was standing there with a guilty, goofy grin on his face that gave my new assignment away. I was told that Adam and myself were going to be the subjects of the photo shoot upstairs, to be used in their school publication and brochure to lure in new students. I could just see it, a wickedly up-close picture of the two of us with a headline that read, "Look! We have Americans too!" Whatever the case, I smiled inside and thought to myself, "Bring it".
We were led upstairs to their private school bar. Oh yes, the school has a bar. Not only do they have a bar, but they have stocked it with real bottles of Western liquor with which selected students practice their pouring skills. Seating us at a table out of the way of the scene before us, Adam and I were able to sit back and watch the madness unfold. Four students had dressed themselves up in their official bartender uniforms, and were primping themselves in the bedroom in the corner. One teacher kept running back and forth between the corner kitchen and the bar counter, shouting what we could only assume were orders back and forth between the students, the onlooking teachers, and the photographer. A checkered tablecloth had been set for two, complete with enough silverware to last me a week, and an ashtray, "to make us feel truly comfortable," according to one of the teachers.
Adam and I were eventually motioned to sit at the bar, on plastic barstools that looked like an awkward '60's mod-style comeback gone wrong. Choosing a liquor, the bartender poured Adam a healthy amount of Bacardi 151 with two ice cubes to boot.
Straight liquor? At the bar? At school?!
My own glass was poured over the course of the next ten minutes, drop by drop, as the photographer tried to get us from every angle and face expression possible. I think he managed to pull it off! One at a time, Adam and I myself were placed with the student bartenders and ordered to converse with them. They didn't speak English and we sure can't form a Korean sentence yet, so we decided to sing to them.
(Even better, not only can the schools advertise that they have real Americans that speak English, but they can SING too! Heck, we might as well start our own one-man-show and REALLY show them all of our skills... "Ahem. Please gape at my overly large American feet. Stand next to me and see if you come up to my hip. Marvel at me eating a cheeseburger..." The Koreans make me realize how talented I really am!)
Fake everything
Anyways, after the bar scene we were shuffled to the checkerboard tablecloth, where more photographing ensued. The photographer, vice principal, and some random man off the street communicated to us in gestures: *Pick up the glass!* *No, not that one, the other glass!* *Now sniff it!* *Why are you sniffing your glass, drink it you fools!* *Obviously there's nothing in there, you American brutes!* *Just pretend!* *What's so funny?!* *Do I hear humming?!* *Oh forget it, just smile and say, I mean sing, "kimchi"!*
And that was my one, and probably only, Korean modeling experience.

One More Time, Baby!
Last night was a special night. A very special night.
Earlier in the week I was invited to a welcome dinner for the new foreign language teachers. I was told that the principle was so impressed with our first impression that she wanted to host an official dinner to welcome us to Korea. So, in true Korean fashion, an upscale sushi restaurant was chosen.
What an event! The dinner began at 5:30 and didn't finish until after 9. Even before the any of the food was brought to the table, soju bottles appeared and the principle along with the two vice principles of the schools offered up welcoming speeches and toasts. Unfortunately they were all in Korean but I guessed they were directed at us due to the continuous stares in our direction, and the mumbling of our names in the speeches. Either way, I was extremely impressed with the formalities exhibited by all of the teachers and administrators, who, while solemn in the dictates of tradition, were cheerful to the occasion and made us feel openly welcome to their group.
The group out for sushi
Then the food began...octopus, pocheon (a spicy Korean flat bread with vegetables), snails, cabbage salad, fried sweet potatoes, paper-thin slices of shrimp on rice balls, raw skate drowned in sweet pepper relish, a whole cooked fish we all picked off of with our chopsticks, and rice soup. The sushi was next, with heaps of raw fish, more than I could even count. Asking what much of it was, the Koreans were unable to translate most of the pieces, but were able to tell me: live sea worm, live earshell, salmon, innumerable types of whitefish, and a plate of oddballs, none of which I could identify but all of which I sampled. Then came the seaweed cones, which were leaves of seaweed stuffed with rice, cucumber, caviar, and hot pepper. These were followed by a version of seafood kimchi soup served over rice. The meal finished with a cold tea with hints of cinnamon and parsimmon.
Throughout the meal, shots of soju were taken. This tradition was somewhat confusing for me. On one hand, I wanted to be polite
Adam serving my oppa (brother)
and thus didn't want to refuse their offers, but by the end I could feel the effects, and, as a woman, realized it's extremely inappropriate for women to show signs of drunkenness in public. While the men kept drinking, I began to politely refuse all of the offers to pour me more. This became a pefect position from which to observe the effects of soju on Korean men. As the meal kept progressing, they began slapping each other and singing American song lyrics as a form of entertainment. Imagine a straight-edge English teacher popping to his feet to serenade us with Britney Spears, "One More Time, Baby!" All of the lyrics were wrong, but in the end it was even funnier to hear American pop lyrics butchered mercilessly in Korean accents.
Overall, the meal was an absolute blast and circus all rolled into one. Despite the language barrier encountered with a few of the administrators, many laughs and smiles were shared. I'm beginning to understand the meaning behind the statement that offering a smile is speaking in the universal language that all people can understand. Evidence and examples of the traditions of Korea were numerous, and although I didn't understand all of them, went along with as much as I could, hoping that soon I will understand. But really, when surrounded by welcoming smiles, how can one possibly feel anything but content?
I'm learning!
After countless bottles of soju

Your Favorite Food is Meat?!
I am now an official English teacher! That's right my friends, as of yesterday I have successfully comandeered my very own class of students, complete with a classroom with a chalkboard to boot. No matter that I had to bribe the students with chocolate in order for them to agree to let me take a picture of them, or that they repeated everything I said in English back to me in Korean. No, none of that matters, because I'm an official teacher of English to speakers of another language. Nothing can stand in my way on my path to my English-teaching destiny. Nothing.
In order to be able to keep all of the screaming students straight, I sat them down and had them answer seven questions:
1. What is your name?
2. What is your favorite color?
3. What is your favorite food?
4. What is your favorite place?
5. What is your favorite kind of music?
6. What is your favorite subject in school?
7. What is your favorite activity to do after school?
Armed and ready, I fired the questions at the students, providing them with paper and pens to respond. Circling, answering the different questions, I ran into a variety of hiccups that made me fall in love with my students. One girl, who will remained unnamed for the sake of her privacy and dignity, answered me in private that her favorite food was meat. So I asked, "Pork? Shrimp? Beef? Chicken?". Oh no, no limiting for her, she replied with a big swoop of her arms, hugging the make-believe chunk of steak that had been floating in her daydreams, "I love it all!" Adorable girl, but I decided not to bother informing her about her future sky-high cholesterol levels. Maybe I'll make that a trivia word in the future...hmm...
The students asked for example of favorite music in order to be inspired, so I listed a few on the board. I noticed the blank expressions of the majority, and realized, in order to truly win them over to my side, there was only one option in front of me: acting. It's true. In front of twenty little middle schoolers, I made my stage debut, singing and dancing to my own versions of classical, jazz, pop, dance, pop, country, and last but not least, polka. This was thrown in as an encore performance.
By the end of my hour with the students, we had learned each other's names and how to successfully do the macarena. Who knows what will happen next?

The Simplicity of Gratitude
Inch by inch (or should I say centimeter by centimeter?), I am slowly being introduced to all of the various aspects and customs of Korean daily life.
Last night Adam and I had the pleasure of being invited over to the high school gym teacher's home for dinner with his family. Wanting to bring something as a gesture to say thanks, we asked both of our co-teachers what the proper gift is. And get this: whenever Koreans go over to each other's homes for dinner, the traditional thing to bring is boxes and boxes of tissues. The teacher that we went with brought SIX boxes. (As a sidenote, whenever anyone has a housewarming party, typically about 90% of the guests bring the lucky family laundry detergent. Where do they put it all?!)
We didn't exactly feel like adding to what I can only assume is an overstuffed closet bursting with tissue boxes, so we decided to play up the foreigner card and bring a cake. Yet what was supposed to be a fallback on our blissful vision of normalcy became instead a clash of cultures. When we went to the bakery to pick out our offering of gratitude, the lady behind the counter kept asking how old our baby was turning! After unsuccessfully insisting that the cake was not going to be for the birthday of our nonexistent child, I finally caved in and accepted the pushy woman's offering of a candle for the fateful moment of presentation. But, with a twinkle in her eye, she outfitted our cake with FIVE candles and TWO noisemakers. Not to mention the decoration of two hearts stuck in the middle of the cake with "Sweet Love" splashed between the two. If I had been able to stop laughing, I might have noticed how nice of a presentation it would have been for the make-believe baby.
The dinner itself was delicious. Mrs. Chae, the wife of the gym teacher, made a dish called bulgogi, which is apparently quite the hit with foreigners. As much as I hate falling into stereotypes, I fell into this one as if it were meant to be. The dish consists of thin strips of beef simmered with onions, carrots, and innumerable spices, served with bean rice. Mmmmm. The food continued to be served and the conversation was lively. It grew more and more boisterous as the alcohol continued to be served. Mr. Chae was very proud of his collection, boasting that he had over 30 different types of liquor. A strong Catholic, he perceived much of his controlled drinking as a way to stay healthy. I quickly understood why... The traditional soju was served, but other, more interesting drinks followed. First there was the fruit drink, which tasted like an extremely strong, aged port. To him, he claimed, since he couldn't taste the alcohol, it wasn't alcoholic. Huh, who knew? Next came the most popular liquor of Taiwan, which he picked up during his travels. At 58%, it burned the entire way down, but I somehow managed a smile amidst the choking. Last was the most interesting. Most likely something that I will never, ever, even if I wanted to, forget. It came from a 3-liter case in the back corner of the cabinet, reserved for special occasions and, as he was proud to share, aged for three years. It was some sort of homemade concoction that had now-colorless white carrots fermenting at the bottom. It tasted like a mixture of sweet potatoes and seafood all at the same time, and I was secretly pleaing that there were no shrimp sharing the same fate as the carrots. Whew! I managed to get it down! That moment I felt almost as proud as when I managed to swallow boiled tofu in front of the teachers, with only minor gagging.
Thoughts of the carrot conconction from hell were quickly erased once the dinner had finished and the five year old twins were allowed to play. While eating the cake that we had brought (which tasted like marshmallows), the twins decided to make Adam and myself their personal playtime assistants. Sooo much fun! While the adults were glued to the TV to learn about the latest developments in North Korea, we chose to remain somewhat oblivious to the troubles of the world and instead remember what it was like to be amused by the some of the purest pleasures life has to offer.
Don't you wish life could always be so simple?

Blogitty Blipitty Blop
Life in South Korea is streamlining ahead, despite the embarassing lack of new entries written in the past few weeks. For that, I apologize, and sincerely hope that each of your lives has been riveting enough to get by without my feeble attempts to blog about that which seems almost impossible to put into words.
I continue to adjust to my new life over here, and am constantly reminded of the very different culture in which I have been submerged. There are moments in which I feel as though I have become accustomed to various aspects of my new life, only to be somewhat unexpectedly reminded that it is a danger to become too comfortable in a situation that refuses to allow the process to be an easy one.
School remains a priority for me, which will hopefully be a pattern I can continue to maintain. After-school classes have been going well, with the students seeming extremely willing to learn and engage with the material I provide. Whether or not the rest of the school's students are willing to learn is another story, but I'm determined to push them to discover their potential. One struggle for me is realizing how much the teachers oftentimes aren't willing to put for the energy to care enough about the personal tribulations and triumphs of each of the students, instead only looking at how the performance of the students is reflected on the school's reputation. I'm slowly learning when to push for change and when to accept things the way that they are presented to me. It's not easy, as I'd much rather be allowed to customize the circumstances into what I think would be ideal, but I've realized that while my opinion matters as that of a foreigner, it is seen more as an interesting spectacle rather than something to seriously consider.
The see-sawing scenario at school has led me to pursue interests outside with much more ardor than I might have been willing to exert had circumstances been different. Friendships have been initiated, which are constantly leading me into directions that I would not have expected myself to have taken based solely on my own accord. Growing in directions that I did not even know existed has already provided me with new adventures, both externally and within. Who knows what will happen in a year's time?
Continue to check back for future updates. While time spent exploring life here is precious, equally important is maintaining the ties with life back home. As adventurous as I'd like to consider myself to be, I'm not quite sure if I can tackle this game we label life on my own.
Good things. :)

ADDRESS!!
It's official! I now have a mailing address!!
Fiction: I actually don't have a mailing address to call my own. BUT,
Fact: I'm mooching off of the oh-so-generous Koreans at my school and using theirs instead. Take THAT, Korea!
How do I know this is right? Because the parents were the first brave souls to attempt what seemed to be the impossible: sending precious gifts of English books over the Pacific. And, I found out exactly one hour ago on the minute, it actually worked. Even though the address is in the Latin script. Ohh, how I love the globalization of the English language! Not only has it given me a job in a foreign country where I have no clue the exact reason why I'm here, but it also allows me and everyone back home the privilege of not even having to attempt writing in Korean. Go us.
Technically there is still the address of my apartment, but I have a feeling that one is not to be trusted. Why, you might ask? Refer to the points listed below:
1. The Entrance to the mailbox is a slit less than one centimeter wide.
2. The slit is proven pointless when one realizes that all one has to do is open the mailbox. It opens for everyone.
3. The box itself is rather small. Maybe big enough for a Chipotle burrito with chicken, guacamole, corn salsa, cheese, and sour cream, but that's it. Not as though that's a hint. :)
4. Packages do not seem to be allowed in the building. There is nowhere for them to be put, shoved, or otherwise dealt with.
Regardless, the one at the school seems to work fine. I will continue to bribe the administration to give me packages in exchange for homebaked cookies. These function as their weight in gold over here! Ohhh, Korea.
written by  Rachel in Korea! on October 9, 2008 from Seoul, South Korea

The Shrimp Burger
Perhaps one of my favorite moments of the trip happened yesterday..
One of the teachers seems to have taken a liking to me. She's extremely sweet, speaks broken English, but has really tried to show me how much she cares. For example, as a token of her affection, a few weeks ago she came to school with a big jug of kimchi. She was so proud! Especially when she told me that she had dug it up from underground where she had been storing it for the last three months! Apparently they believe that the longer it sits in the soil, surrounded by the natural elements, the longer it has the chance to fermet and become truly delicious. That jug is still sitting in the back of the refridgerator, unopened and without hope of ever being eaten.
Yesterday was even better. I was sitting in the library (on the opposite side of the school campus) when she found me. In her hand was a plastic bag, and I was immediately more than a bit wary. A second later, she pulled out a sandwich in a fast food wrapper with as much pride and delicacy as if she were handling a newborn. "This," she whispered, "is a shrimp hamburger I bought for you LAST NIGHT." She had been keeping it in her desk all morning for safekeeping, eagerly anticipating the moment she could bequeath me with her delicious prize. Feeling it, I knew she spoke the truth: it was indeed a cold, leftover shrimp burger from the night before. She asked me to take a bite, I did, and all I could stutter was, "Delicious!"
written by  Rachel in Korea! on October 9, 2008 from Seoul, South Korea

Fall in all its Splendor
Fall is beginning to show its face in Korea, and it is breathtaking.
Last Sunday Mr. Che invited us to go hiking with him and his daughter up a mountain in Paju, relatively near the school. Chosen specifically for the intensity of the changing fall colors, the mountain was a spectacular treat, one that I felt lucky to have the chance to see in its prime.
The hike itself was within my range of capability, but my small fear of heights was tapped as we neared the top. The peak of the moutain is nothing but boulders, and in order to get to the top without needing a harness and some sturdy rope, we had to climb a staircase that somehow managed to forget that it needed actual stairs. It's true! It was a red skeleton of what it should have been, so every step up was only a few bars ineffectively hiding the distance to the safe ground below. But the staircase from hell was absolutely worth it once we got to the top and were able to see the scenery surrounding us. What beauty!
The Koreans are fiercly proud of their mountainous region, and it is not at all difficult to understand why. The mountains have assumed themselves as part of the Korean character, and have provided an unprecedented backdrop on which the scenes of Korean history have been played. Much of the culture of Korea revolves around the influence that the mountains have had on everyday life.
For example, the preferred manner in which to be buried is on a hillside overlooking the surrounding mountains and valleys, so that one can achieve tranquility for eternity.
Buddhist temples are scattered across the mountainsides, seen as peaceful havens in which the over-exherted can retreat for a few precious moments of solitude. It is practically impossible to come to a Korean mountain and not be moved by the sense of serenity that prevails in the areas left relatively untouched by civilization.
People come to the mountains seeking a brief respite from the chaos into which their lives have evolved. Throughout the hike, I felt as though I was not only partaking in a typical pasttime of Korea, but also being shown a sliver of the origin of the intoxicatingly fierce nationalistic pride.
written by  Rachel in Korea! on October 20, 2008 from Seoul, South Korea

Narcissism or something more?
The ubiquitous fashion trends of the Koreans have provoked me to record a few observations and opinions regarding what I've witnessed. The attitudes towards appearances are much different than those found back home, so much that my acceptance of the differences has taken more effort than previously anticipated.
Clothing plays a central role in most cultures, even if the members do not comprehend the full implications of their style of physical representation. Originally used solely as protection from the elements of nature, it has evolved to become one of the most visible forms of self expression that most individuals have access to. It betrays one's social status, their general level of income, their preferred tastes, and even, if we dare take it this far, their general outlook on life. One who invests heavily in their appearance most likely has a greater concern for a need of acceptance than those who are willing to don whatever is closest to their reach. While obviously impossible to make blanket statements about all countries’ manner of dress, a closer analysis reveals certain patterns reveal general attitudes about the role of others in one’s personal path of self acceptance.
The state of one’s appearance takes on a pivotal role in the Korean culture, so much that both men and women care equally about how they are perceived by others. Each student has their own personal mirror and comb, which they use multiple times in a single class period. The girls use curlers in the morning to ensure that their straight hair has just the proper amount wave to it throughout the day, and even the boys constantly adjust their hair so that it falls “just right”. My friend Nick’s Korean cell phone has a second purpose when not lit up: the screen becomes a mirror so that one will never have to be without a reflective surface again!
The obsession goes past one’s physical appearance to include a rigorous upkeep of one’s wardrobe. Fashion trends have never moved through a country as quickly as they do here. If any particular manner of dress has been modeled somewhere in the world, the Koreans will adopt it as their own, add their own twist to make it authentically Korean, and continue the style until a new and better one arrives to take its place. While almost all trends are accepted, very few people stray from what they already know will be met with approval. Yet from an outsider’s perspective, it seems as though the people of this country are willing to pay whatever it takes in order to insure that they look the same as everyone else.
I am beginning to wonder if ties can be drawn between the intrinsic values that the culture has purported since each person’s birth and the dedication to a collective faction. Instead of believing in the ideal of individuality of the West, Koreans believe that it is always better to be seen as part of the group than as a separate individual. All actions are undertaken only once they have been confirmed as not disrupting the harmonious balance that the culture strives to maintain between the various Confucian relationships of the people. Perhaps the obsession with their appearance can be attributed largely to the fact that they strive to remain seen as belonging to the crowd, and not as people with their own sense of individuality. Or, expressed in a different way, Korean people seek their version of individuality through the ideals that their culture has prescribed to them, and see their clothing as an ideal opportunity to confirm that they do indeed belong to the collective whole.

Korean French
There has been a recent development in my time in Korea, being that practicing my French skills with other Koreans has now become an option!
SungSou, a friend from Madison, is both a Business major and a French major, while being practically fluent in English. We were finally able to see him on Friday for the first time in months, and what a treat it was! We met near Hangkuk University of Foreign Studies, where he attends, so that we could be exposed to a true Korean university experience. After wandering down winding alleys lined with brightly-decorated restaurants with delicious-smelling offerings, he led us into a packed restaurant. The decor was quintessently made for university students: christmas lights strung on the ceilings, enormous soju posters hung on the walls, and markers all around so that everyone might discover their hidden artistic talents, with only the walls having to pay a small sacrifice. Regardless, the restaurant is apparently famous for its delicious, enormous, and best of all, cheap pajeon. And, surprise surprise, it lived up to its reputation! Deeeelicious. (Pajeon is a type of doughy Korean pancake, usually stuffed with seafood, green onions, and whatever else is around the kitchen that the cook is trying to get rid of. A favorite!)
Being wooed by Adam's amazing French skills
After a couple of pots of dongdongju (a type of slightly carbonated rice wine), we were off to a new establishment, with an even greater selling point. After escaping from the maze of alleys, SungSou led us to a door that was practically hidden from the main street. Going down, the most wonderful sound hit my ears, that of the language of my last international adventure--French! It's true...we had been led to an underground
Basking in the French-speaking glow
gathering place for all of the French majors of the neighboring university, and while most people spoke Korean amongst themselves, they were all more than willing to speak French with me. This last part of the night held an enormous amount of irony for me: here I am in Korea, where my Korean skills are sadly much above nill, but I was able to use what little French ability I have left to finally talk to Koreans! It was a rather exhilerating experience. To cap it off, there was a variety show (unfortunately not in French) in which students got up and sang the two popular Korean songs of the moment. In drag. What could be better?
written by  Rachel in Korea! on November 16, 2008 from Seoul, South Korea

Dooly the Dinosaur
How it began: "You will wear masks and interview children in English."
First of all, what?! Why must masks be worn, and why oh why are we interviewing children in English when they can't even speak it? Apparently these questions weren't in fact pertinent to the coordinators of the festival, because we never received any answers. But first, an explanation: Nick, Adam, and I had been asked through Nick's coteacher if we'd be willing to volunteer at the English festival in Uijeongbu this past weekend. We replied that we would indeed be able to help, not exactly knowing what we had enlisted ourselves to do..
The day itself was less than ideal, as it was overcast with a slight drizzle falling throughout the course of the afternoon. But this soon did not seem to matter, as I
Before the candy-bribing begins
realized that my hair would be in no immediate danger of getting wet because....I was to wear a character suit for the afternoon! Very soon after arriving, I was given the choice as to whether I would prefer to dress up as Pokemon or Dooly the baby dinosaur. The Pokemon outfit looked a tad on the edge of sanity, so I chose to be Dooly (Drooly as my nickname soon came to be).
The majority of the rest of the afternoon was spent traipsing around as Dooly the Dinosaur), asking all of the children if they wanted pieces of candy.
Just doing ourthing...
As much fun as it was being hugged and poked by everyone that somehow truly did believe that I was a big furry (?!) green dinosaur, I permitted myself to realize that I have looked better. See the pictures for yourselves, and judge accordingly!
Dooly and the students
Of course the students are smiling, they just received candy!
All of the lucky native speakers
In the end, I'm able to admit that my skills as a faux dinosaur are perhaps next to nill. Yet, the smiles and laughs that were a result of being willing to make fools of ourselves are that which will remain my favorite aspect of the day.
written by  Rachel in Korea! on November 16, 2008 from Seoul, South Korea

Update
The sign outside a "beer garden" in Dongdaemun
First, I apologize for how extremely long overdue this post is. There might be the appearance of not much happening over here, but that is quite the reverse! Instead of regailing the world web with a specific tale of the present happenings, I've decided to keep it simple with a brief account of what has been going on in the past month (oops).
New friends have been made, which is always a positive point. I've begun going to a weekly dinner in Uijeongbu specifically for English teachers. The mastermind behind the meetings is a South African man that somehow convinced his school that these dinners are necessary to the native speaker's morale, so the Korean government sponsors them! Well, not the beer, because apparently a few weeks ago (before I started going!) the beer flowed a little too quickly and caused the government to insist that we now pay for our own. Probably better this way. I feel so lucky to have been invited, because they really are a great chance to get together with other people who speak the same language and share what's been going on in our lives. If nothing else, find support and ideas for dealing with whatever might come up during the week.
Every weekday still begins with me at Nammun, doing whatever they think I do best. The students still like me, so I must be doing something right! The school is actually finishing up their final exams today, which means that the end of the semester should be relatively smooth sailing. The school year finishes at the end of December, and begins in March, so the students are getting excited to be done. Especially the 9th graders, who are about to make the transition to high school, seem to be getting particularly anxious! I think that more than anything, my job the next few weeks will be simply to keep the students under control. I'm not exactly sure why exams are given with three weeks left in the year, but whatever, it's merely my job to go with it. So go with it I shall...
The weather has turned cold, and everyone is preparing for the long winter ahead. In fact, in snowed the other night, and all of Korea celebrated! That is, until the next morning, when they quickly remembered that they had to drive the through the mountains on the slippery roads from the night before. While the snow didn't stay for long, it was a good reminder that winter is now indeed upon us, and measures must be taken to stay warm! I've begun wearing long underwear to school because of the cold. I think I've mentioned it to a few of you, but few areas of the school are actually heated. Luckily for me, I sit right underneath one of the large heaters in the teacher's room, so I'm fine while at my desk, but the classrooms tend to be a different story. And then I see the poor girl students in their knee-length skirts, and wonder how their legs still manage to work after the cold!
Alright, time for class, thanks for reading, and send me reminders to get my butt in gear and keep this thing up to date! Love, Rachel.
written by  Rachel in Korea! on December 10, 2008 from Seoul, South Korea

Slippery Slopes sans Seatbelts
I have a bone to pick with the Koreans. To be honest, I think all of the potential bones worth picking would amount to an entire skeleton, but that's beside the point. I am completely baffled that so many are still alive after braving the daily battle of Korean traffic.
Yes, that which is beyond my comprehension boils down to the simple mechanical ingenuity that is the automobile. Not just any automobile, but specifically those of the Korean variety. And not only the said Korean automobile, but the Korean drivers that constantly put themselves in mortal peril as soon as they hop in.
Let us begin with the basic construction of the cars, and the rules that govern their interior space. The metaphor for that which is the essence of Korean driving can be witnessed through the simple fact that Korean cars do not come equipped with a seatbelt on the back right side. The back left and the center tend to always be provided for, yet for some unknown reason, perhaps a universal construction overlook due to there only being enough thread for all of the other seatbelts, the back right seat is always cheated out of this proven lifesaver. Add to the irony that the back right seat is thought to be the most revered and safest in the car, so that it is always an honor to be motioned to the seat. Being a woman, I have had the stroke of luck to be offered this seat every time there are two other men in the car. The men brave the innumerable dangers of the front seat with only their seatbelts for protection, while I am left in the safest spot of the car, which, of course, lacks the one tool known for its safety factor. Le it be known that I have nothing against the back seat. In fact, I adore it. For it is only in the back that one is allowed the privilege to enjoy a few precious moments of respite, as it is also considered improper to attempt to cross the invisible barrier between the front and back of the car with conversation. So here, in my seat of solitude, I have made a new art of weaving the words of the front, the music of the radio, and the strands of my own thoughts into webs that float along with as little care as to the path they take as does the driver.
The person behind the wheel holds the most important role of the car, that being to keep it on the road, away from other cars, and ideally steer it safely to its destination. I've realized that Korean drivers seem to find value only in the last duty on the list. No matter what the risks might be, drivers here seem fearless, using their cat-like reflexes to dodge any bullet that might be shot their way. Red lights are mere suggestions here, and even the presence of pedestrians does not always cause oncoming vehicles to reduce their speed. Left turns on red lights are frequent as well, and the cars that might otherwise have hit the semi that pulls out in front of them are forced to brake and skid off the road. And in mentioning 'cars,' I am of course referring to our own car on the way to school this morning. :)
I'm not familiar with the statistics of Korean traffic accidents, but I could see them being extreme in either direction. Between the lack of seatbelts and the conflicting careful daredevil attitude that persists, the I am once again beguiled by one small aspect of this fascinating country.
written by  Rachel in Korea! on December 11, 2008 from Seoul, South Korea

Next Stop...Olympics
This past weekend a group of Madisonians ventured out into the Korean wilderness to test their hands (and feet) at the great outdoor sports of skiing and snowboarding. Some met fates of disaster, others of glee, but everyone was in agreement that all fates that befell them were replete with good times.
Practically all of Saturday afternoon was spent with my butt, hands, knees, head, or a
Staring at the mountain in front of me. Obviously full of confidence, haha!
combination thereof firmly planted on the side of the mountain. They were never placed there gracefully, instead being subjected to the cruel forces of gravity. In other words, I fell. Not once, not twice, but all afternoon. Forwards, backwards, sideways, and into stationary objects. If one could count the number of ways a person could suddenly crumple into the ground, I feel I could safely claim that I managed to accidentally perform a high percentage of the list.
Documentation of the first few moments of Rachel + Snowboard = Chaos!
As anyone who has learned to snowboard can attest, the trials of the first few precarious hours are in fact not as horrible as they are often depicted. True, fragile bodies had best not attempt to dance the dance of two feet moving in unison while plummeting down a mountain. But, for the brave souls who have wrestled a beastly snowboard and come out standing for more than five consecutive seconds, there is a sudden rush of adrenaline as a reward that propels them on their downward journey.
Teetering and tottering down the hazardous slope also known as the bunny hill for four hours, I slowly honed my snowboarding skill so that by the end of the day, I was able to maneover my board and myself down to the bottom and safety while staying upright. Upright is of course a relative term, because no matter how much my "skills" improved, I was continuously hunched over, arms splayed, ready to wobble as much as was necessary to preserve balance.
As with any practice, certain skills come more easily than do others. Snowboarding is no exception. In my case, I quickly realized that first came standing, then came moving while standing, then came turning while moving and standing. While these can be faceted into any and every odd combination, I discovered that very few led to snowboarding success. At one point during the afternoon, I was learning the technique behind the ever-evasive turn. Sliding down the mountain, I quickly picked up how to turn left, and became ecstatic at my new skill proceededing to keep it up as long as possible. However, as all people know, hills are not infinite, and bunny hills have edges. This became increasingly apparent to me as me and my board slid closer to the leftmost part
Yes, that's right...I coordinated my orange gloves to match the fence. Of course.
of the slope. Yet while I had learned to turn left, I had conveniently forgotten to learn how to turn right or stop. In too few seconds for me to understand, I had accidentally guided my board into the orange DANGER fence that clearly marked the ease of the bunny hill from the next door blue. But even here I was unable to stop. So my board, myself and the fence into which I had crashed took a trip away from comfort and into distress. Who knew that DANGER fences would be so elastic?? Isn't their entire purpose devoted to the preservation of the safety of runaway snowboards with humans attached such as myself? Either way, I think the appearance of a not-yet-beginner snowboarder and DANGER fence into the nextdoor run made enough of a show to ensure that a collision with a person on a blue would not take place. Thank God for that!
written by  Rachel in Korea! on December 22, 2008 from Seoul, South Korea

The Original Korean Winter Sport
Korea is not a flat country. In fact, I've been told by Koreans that roughly 75 percent of it is covered by mountains and hills. The remaining 25 percent is divided between human establishments and Fields. I personally feel that having such little flat land in a country has causes a very strong economical streak in Koreans, so much so that they seem to always know what to do to best preserve any and all land or materials that come into their hands.
This being said, Korea has the most ingenious winter tradition of any that I have previously witnessed. While mountains abound in this country, lakes and ponds do not. So during the winter season, some generous Korean farmers flood their small Fields with water just enough so that it freezes and provides a smooth surface on which children (at heart) can play.
I don't know what the proper name of this sport is, so I've since named it Butt Skating. The pictures should provide ample enough evidence as to why it has been labelled as such. I've never felt so entertained while sitting outside in winter before! Hah, while that was a really specific "never", it's true!
Our adventure began on a day that couldn't have been more than 15 degrees outside, with a hefty amount of wind to boot. We were unloaded out of the car and shepherded to a small shack next to the Field, where we were given the butt skate and two sticks. The butt skate is literally a square board that has two skates on the bottom! We were told to sit down,
use the sticks to propel ourselves forward (or back, or to the side), and we were off! The adventure only lasted maybe 30 minutes because of the frigid temperatures, but those few minutes were precious for the chance to learn yet something new about this fascinating place.
written by  Rachel in Korea! on February 2, 2009 from Seoul, South Korea

Chaotic!
Jeesh! Overdue doesn't even come close to describing how tardy this post is in coming! Perhaps I should research Twitter, the new fad I've been reading about. That way, every breath I take and movement I make I can inform others about. Though the way things sometimes happen over here, I'm most likely discovering it months and months after its initial appearance. Aaaaanyway....
Life has been full of occurrences the past few months. Going back to the States for a week, a new semester, family coming to Korea, it's hard to keep track of it all! But let me try to give a brief rundown on the main events~~
The end of February saw me back safely to the US for a week and a half to spend much-needed quality time with family in Denver. Everyone was able to be home together for a weekend, which was such a blessing. I was able to have happy moments with not only the family, but also with American shopping!! Shoes that fit my Western gorilla feet, jeans that extend past my calf, who knew that such ordinary items would be worth their weight in gold to me this far into my time in Korea! Not only was I able to revel in American shopss, but I made sure to stuff myself silly with food that I had been missing from home. Top of the list was salmon and fresh baby spinach. Mmmmm.
Being around such ordinary things in America was a wonderful reminder to not take for granted the little things we see daily. As much as I loved being home, it was a good wake up call to make sure to appreciate every day I've been given in Korea. Just as moments at home were fleeting, they are here as well, and I don't want to miss a single one!
I'm now one month into the new school year here. It's bizarre to Americans, but Koreans work their school year differently, instead beginning a new school year with the beginning of a new calendar year. Vacation times still roughly coincide with those in the US, but even those vary in their utility. Technically speaking, the students have most of January and February off for their winter and spring vacations, yet they use this time for intense educational camps. I led an English camp for interested students in January, and know already that I will do something similar in July.
While I don't think that I will be a teacher for life, I've come to love the chance to work with students here. There is the obvious English instruction, but I've come to love what happens outside of the classroom even more than I do English. And that's saying something! The students have begun to overcome their instilled Korean shyness to actually interact with the weird foreign alien teacher! Obviously some are more willing to talk than others, but everyday brings me new stories and smiles from what happens at Nammun.
If the rest of my time continues in the same fashion, it will have been a fantastic year indeed!
written by  Rachel in Korea! on March 30, 2009 from Seoul, South Korea

Gyeongju
The link above is for my album on Facebook that has pictures of the two trips I took down to Gyeongju, waaaay down south in Korea. What great adventures!
The first was with Mom and Audrey, to get some extra bang for their Korean buck in terms of Korean culture. What a perfect place to go, as Gyeongju is the original site of the Silla dynasty, the kingdom that ruled the southern part of the Korean peninsula for over one thousand years. Of course the wooden structures have long disappeared due to wars and time, but the sense of history is profound. My camera skills were simple unable to capture the early morning mist draped over the tops of the mountains, with ancient temples dotting the landscape...it was the things dreams are made of.
The second trip was to explore the same area using a different means of transportation--bikes! While the entire country is mountainous, we were able to challenge the steep slopes and come out victorious. The main point was to see the first cherry blossoms of South Korea, as the city is so far south in the country. And what a site they were! All of the streets and hillsides were covered with white and pink flowers, making for spectacular sights and even better memories.
written by  Rachel in Korea! on April 15, 2009 from Seoul, South Korea

Jeonju International Film Festival
Get this--May 5 is a national holiday in Korea, meaning that there's no school, no work, and only play. The holiday's name? Children's Day. Not to be confused with Parent's Day or Teacher's Day, both which follow a few days behind, but neither warranting a day free from school. But I'm getting sidetracked! Children's Day resulted in a four day weekend, which I proceeded to use to visit somewhere within Korea.
Jeonju, a city in the south of South Korea known primarily for its traditional cuisine, hosted its 10th annual film festival over the same time that I had no school. So the Friday before my long weekend, I decided why not, and packed my bags for a weekend of films and food.
Without knowing much about films myself, it seemed to me that there was a large sampling of films offered, spanning multiple continents, genres, and time periods. The first one that I saw was part of a special section highlighting the films from Sri Lanka. It was titled Ponmani, and initially roused my curiosity due to its description as a new version of Romeo and Juliet. The director was also there, and within the first minute of his introduction, I realized that I was in for a treat. He kept talking about the political climate of Sri Lanka in the 1970s, and how it contributed to his artistic sway while making the movie. Once it started, it became so clear what exactly he was referring to--the film was in black and white, from the '70s, and apparently the first one created in Sri Lanka in the Tamil language. So while a landmark for its newness, it wasn't enough to keep me awake. Without realizing it, right in front of the director, oops.
There were a few other hiccups, most notably a Korean film titled The Origin of Water. I think my ability to recognize art in film must be extremely off, because I didn't particularly enjoy this one either. Oh well! In between films we allowed ourselves to feel extremely cultural by enjoying delicious coffee drinks at various shops around the area--some of the best coffee I've been able to find in Korea! What a treat!
If you want to take a look at what the film festival was like, its site is below.
http://eng.jiff.or.kr/
written by  Rachel in Korea! on May 17, 2009 from Seoul, South Korea

Busan
Well helllooooo there!!
Let me explain myself...please! The reason that I've been so MIA on this site is because most weekends currently find me trekking around South Korea, exploring big cities, little town, and lost rice fields. Look for updates beginning now--
This past weekend was most certainly one of my favorites in Korea. A group of nine people hopped onto the KTX, the extremely fast train of Korea, for a three hour train ride to the opposite end of the country, home to the second-largest city of Korea, Busan. Boy, were my expectations shattered! Everything that I had read about the city told me to prepare for grey, cement-clad streets with nothing else to show for themselves than an 'x' on a tourist map. Instead, I found a city bursting with energy and a level of friendliness unmatched by anywhere else that I've been to in the country, so much so that even the fish vendors wanted to give us slighty sticky hugs of welcome!
The first group of us didn't arrive in Busan until midnight, but still found the city in a state that ensured us of our wise choice. We had a pension reserved for us near one of Busan's many beaches, so hopped into a cab and zoomed off into the night, cruising past mega-luxury apartment complexes, side alleys one step away from an explosion of neon lights, and semi-deserted beaches where the parties and bonfires were only getting started. Upon entering our pension, we knew were were in for an adventure when we were greeted by six blankets, a hard floor, and no bathroom sink. But, where's the fun in a standard hotel room, anyway? Bring it!!
Saturday morning and early afternoon were spent wandering the aisles and docks of Jagalchi Fish Market, the largest one in Korea, and definitely worth a stop. In fact, we decided to combine two tourist stops into one--the fish market and aquarium, because we realized that the market would most likely have everything that the aquarium would, and as an added bonus, we could eat it! Entertainment still abounded, with
highlights including: octopi refusing to accept their fate and continuously escaping out of their buckets of doom, having water fights with odd squirting sea worms (with the vendors approval!), marvelling at huge king crabs that cost more than a month's worth of expenses, and being offered for 10,000 won to a group of Korean fishermen by my oh-so-kind fellow travellers. After taking in all the sights with our eyes, we made sure to allow our mouths the same pleasures, so ordered fish from a vendor, who fished them out of the aquarium and fried them up for an extraordinary meal!
The rest of Saturday found us taking in the sights of Busan on a tour bus, before ending up on its most famous beach to catch the last rays of sun.
The frigid water wasn't nearly as welcoming for me as the warm sand, and I apparently liked it enough to now have some come out of my purse everytime I go in! It was funny though, as Haeundae Beach is the largest and most famous one in Korea, yet there were so many umbrellas covering it that I wondered a bit as to why! Though with the amount that my fellow Korean teachers have commented today on my 'unhealthy' appearance due to a slight tan and freckles, I'm beginning to understand..
Sunday we went to Beomosa Temple, the most famous one of Busan. It was up in the mountains, overlooking the city, and beautiful. A stream ran alongside its buildings, which lent an incredible sense of calm over the entire site. A Buddhist monk greeted us with tea and snacks at the temple's entrance, and signed for us to enjoy ourselves.
And, because no weekend visit is complete without at least two tasty meals, we finished off the trip back in downtown Busan, in the Foreigner's Shopping District. Unsure of what exactly this meant, we trekked through, expecting to find a bit of an American flair, instead happening upon an entire district of Russian shops and restaurants! That said, we sat ourselves down in a teeny tiny cafe, with barely enough seats for us and a Russian couple, and stuffed ourselves with greasy deliciousness, so much so that it put me to sleep as soon as I got on the train back to Seoul. I woke up at Seoul Station feeling so lucky to have had such an amazing weekend!
You can check out a handful of the pictures from the weekend at the following link:
written by  Rachel in Korea! on June 28, 2009 from Seoul, South Korea

Yerim!