All Around The Country (2011) - shoshtrvls
A road trip around the country in July, 2011

Getting Going
Philadelphia, United States
I hoped it wasn’t an omen. The first car Hertz gave me had no gas – not a drop. I barely made it around the block and back to the counter. The second car they gave me had a huge flashing “SERVICE” light going off on the dashboard. But the third time was the charm; the red Chevy Matrix definitely fit the bill – big, comfortable, and with an iPod adaptor. Things were looking up.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 11, 2011 from Philadelphia, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)

Getting Going - Part II
Lake Harmony, United States
At midnight, Ellery and I took our places just past security and waited for Jordan to arrive. And waited. The screen said her plane had landed, but there was no Jordan. Evidently, the screen did not say what had actually happened … “the plane is delayed pulling into the gate.” But, eventually, this tiny pixie of a person emerged through the doors. She saw us before we saw her and there she was. Ellery whispered, “no one looks like they do on Facebook, do they?” Jordan did, but I think both Ellery and I were surprised that she was no taller than us. Those height genes that their biological father had – definitely recessive.
Driving home, Jordan kept remarking, “this is so cool!” She eyed Java on Christian as we neared home so Tuesday morning that’s where we headed for breakfast.
As I still hadn’t packed, and had several errands to run, and because I thought the girls should get to know each other without motherly intervention, off they went for a brief intro to Philadelphia’s history, walking to the Liberty Bell, Independence Hall, and the Constitution Center, with a stop back a Rita’s on South Street for the obligatory Philly water ice. (As a vegetarian, cheesesteaks were not on the list for Jordan).
So, it was time to go. After brief introductions between Jordan and Tanya, we headed to the next neighborhood watering hole for lunch – where else but the New Wave. Somehow it was fitting – the Wave was where I ate every Monday when I was pregnant; it was the first place I went to after Ellery was born, it was probably the first place I had taken Ellery as an infant, so now it was Jordan’s turn.
We eventually hit the road around 1:30, at which time Jordan piped up from the back seat, “I’ve never seen mountains. We don’t have them in Florida.” Well, actually, we don’t have them in Eastern Pennsylvania either, notwithstanding the fact that they call the Poconos “mountains.” No worries though – there will be plenty of awe-inspiring mountains on this trip. In any event, we made it to Lake Harmony just after 3. Unfortunately, they were treating the lake so we couldn’t take the boat out. Instead, after a brief tour of our house and the meadow behind, the girls put on their bathing suits, and hopped into the lake, first and then, with a bit of instruction from Ellery, kayaking. Given how little Ellery kayaks, it was an interesting choice of diversions.
After that brief interlude, it was dinner at home (a pizza that we had picked up at New Wave) and then the two of them made the obligatory evening stroll to Hog Heaven for ice cream.
The evening ended with me upstairs reading, while the two of them played monopoly in the living room. There was something very cool about that – as only children, neither probably played many board games. But here they were, doing what siblings do.
It was a very cool first day.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 12, 2011 from Lake Harmony, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)

Pittsburgh Through A Soup Can
Pittsburgh, United States
Really, did you expect to find us anywhere else for breakfast? Piggy’s it is.
Some observations. Jordan eats virtually nothing. Jordan has a sharp, sarcastic sense, but in a very quiet way. It’s nice to see someone give it back to Ellery every now and again. And Jordan texts constantly – really, how much is there to say and how many people are there to say it to? Ugh, I’m old; this is the comment of an old person who just doesn’t “get it.”
So, after Piggy’s the journey really began. We hit the road just before 9, heading to our first stop – Pittsburgh. To be honest, this was much of Pennsylvania that I had never seen before – there are some mountains here, and lots of rolling farmland, and some beautiful views. Unfortunately, Jordan slept through much of it; Ellery read through much of it. We passed through State College, near Altoon and Johnston, past Nanty Glo. We stopped at the side of the road for peaches and sweet corn, and then we came into Pittsburgh. I had never been here before, and driving into the city is a pretty awesome sight. Just through a tunnel, just as you curve around a bend, the city appears, all towers and Bridges.
I had decided that the Andy Warhol Museum would be a good focal point for this first day; little did I know that Jordan loves Andy Warhol. So, she and Ellery lingered long in rooms of pictures and videos that, to be honest, I just didn’t get. If a museum is supposed to increase your appreciation of an artist, for me, the Andy Warhol Museum failed. But not for the two of them, so the stop, including a brief walk around Pittsburgh, was a success.
Another interesting note; Jordan is so unfamiliar with cities, and particularly northeast cities, that I think she’s rather taken aback by the age, the grime, the small houses. In her mind, it all looks like ghetto, when in reality, it’s just a city.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 13, 2011 from Pittsburgh, United States
from the travel blog: All Around The Country (2011)

The Road To Cleveland
Cleveland, United States
From Pittsburgh, it was on to Cleveland, our planned stop for the evening. It was a relatively short drive, punctuated by the usual Pennsylvania highway road construction (indeed, the drive from Lake Harmony to Pittsburgh had no less than 5 construction areas). Arrival was relatively uneventful, but dinner was comical, as we arrived at the small cafe across the street just as it was closing. Still, we were served and ate as quickly as possible while the waitress did her best not to push us out the door while, effectively, pushing us out the door.
After, the girls headed down to the hotel swimming pool, while I headed to the hotel bar to meet up with Jay, a friend I hadn’t seen in a year. It was wonderful catching up with him and we talked for a quite a bit before I returned to the room, instructed the girls to turn off the electronics that were occupying their time, and get some sleep.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 13, 2011 from Cleveland, United States

Rock Around The Clock
Cleveland, United States
It’s pretty amazing how much can be packed into one day. After a brief hotel breakfast, we headed to the 9th Street Pier (I think that’s what it is called) on Lake Erie and The Rock ‘n Roll Hall of Fame.
I expected this to be at most a two hour diversion, but the museum is overwhelming and we spend nearly four hours there. It’s sensory overload, but well worth it. Really, the only disappointment was that someone decided that Taylor Swift deserved to be included in the “Women of Rock” exhibit. (Oh, and someone tell me, what do they have against Elton John? He’s nowhere to be found).
written by  shoshtrvls on July 14, 2011 from Cleveland, United States

Go Blue!
Ann Arbor, United States
Eventually, we got back on the road and headed toward Chicago. As we drove through the beautiful farm country of Ohio, a small voice from the back seat asked, “Will we be going through Michigan?” And all of a sudden, I remembered one of the first things Ellery told me about Jordan – she was a huge U of Michigan fan and wanted to go to college there. “Nope, sorry, it isn’t on the way.” An hour later, and there was the exit sign “Ann Arbor – Rte 22 – next left.” Well, what would a road trip be without a detour? So, to Ann Arbor we went.
It was only an hour out of the way, and we spent only an hour there – most of it with Jordan shopping for GO BLUE wear, but it was all worth it. I think she was momentarily the happiest person on earth.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 14, 2011 from Ann Arbor, United States

The Big City
Chicago, United States
Then it was back on the road – through the wine country of Michigan (who knew there was so much of it?), through Indiana, and eventually to Chicago, where we ended the night with a stroll down the Magnificent Mile and ice cream at Ghirardelli. (Um, no, there’s no “Welcome to Illinois” picture, because we cross the border after dark – best I got is the Chicago sign at sunset).
written by  shoshtrvls on July 14, 2011 from Chicago, United States

Did We Really Do All That?
Chicago, United States
A packed day, in every sense of the word. First, we had to pack – yes, the one place where I had planned to spend more than one night in a hotel room. Because when we arrived last night, they did not have a room with two double beds, resulting in very cramped quarters for the three of us. But we were promised a new, “upgraded” room for tonight, so we had to pack our bags and leave them with the bellman as we headed out for the day.
We walked down Michigan Avenue, stopping briefly for breakfast, then over the river, eventually arriving at Millennium Park, where we dutifully visited the Cloud Gate and the Pritzker Pavilion.
Then it was on to the main attraction of the day, the Art Institute. I had forgotten just how much amazing art is there. Trying to do it in a few hours is impossible, but try we did. We may even have succeeded (as long as you ignore the fact that we skipped everything but the highlights).
By the time we left the museum, somewhat after 1 p.m., life in the park and along Michigan Avenue was in full swing.
Jordan was dazed by it all, ready to pack her bags and move to Chicago. And I have to say, I don’t blame her. It was a beautiful Chicago day – sunny and bright, but not to hot. People were lively, musicians were everywhere, and everyone had a spring in their step. (By the way, have I mentioned that Jordan is a slow walker? She is, or maybe the Schillers are fast walkers).
Much as we wanted to saunter, there was no rest for the weary (which I was) because we had tickets for a 3 p.m. architectural boat tour. Unfortunately, our docent was less than thrilling, and the girls were bored by the narration, but as always, the amazing buildings of Chicago were enough to keep us going.
After such a busy day, then, it was nice to return to the hotel and find that, yes, they really did give us a nicer room. Not just two beds, but a mini-suite, which was a welcome respite before dinner and a movie. Yes, indeed, I had the poor judgment to schedule our vacation for the very same week that the last installment of the Harry Potter series was released. We couldn’t get tickets to see it last night, but I managed to get what I believe was the next best thing – tickets for tonight, so the girls can at least say that they saw the movie on the day it was released. (This seems to be important, but I know not why).
written by  shoshtrvls on July 15, 2011 from Chicago, United States

Boring and Mundane, Punctuated By The Mighty
Sioux Falls, United States
A day of driving. Though cornfields. And more cornfields. Who knew there were so many cornfields in Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota and South Dakota? Congress, I guess. ADM, I guess. It’s a lot of corn out there. And wind farms, plenty of wind farms. Which at least answered a question from earlier in the trip as we passed several trucks hauling massive wing-like things that clearly were not airplane parts. Now we know what they are, at least. Despite the picturesque Andrew Wyeth-like farmhouses on hills, there’s really not much between Chicago and Sioux Falls. Jordan mostly slept; Ellery mostly read, and we managed to get through it no worse for wear.
There was one truly amazing site that we passed, though, and that’s the Mississippi River. It is really awe-inspiring coming upon it – it is huge, and I did not expect it go be so vast, and so populated with lush, green islands, Huck Finn’s Story notwithstanding. It is definitely a mighty River.
Unfortunately, Jordan was the only one able to get a shot of it, which doesn’t do it any justice. You see, we expected to be able to take photos at the Tourist Info Center just over the Minnesota Border but … thanks to the budget impass and MN government shut-down, all the rest areas in MN were closed.
Oh, one other unexpected adventure – the bottom of the car fell off! Well, almost off. Fortunately, we made it to Sioux Falls with a bit of assistance from some duct tape (the wonder invention), where a wonderful hotel clerk, seeing our bedraggled faces, gave us a beautiful room and directions to the Hertz car rental location where, after a few hours of exasperation while the girls went swimming at the hotel, I finally got a replacement vehicle.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 16, 2011 from Sioux Falls, United States

Americana
Keystone, United States
Leaving Sioux Falls, South Dakota at first did not appear to be much different than Minnesota. Or Wisconsin. Or Illinois. To me, it was all one long bug-splattered highway ahead.
But very quickly, we realized that it wasn’t the same because, unlike those other states, South Dakota has … WALL DRUGSTORE! And not just Wall Drugstore, although that was the most ubiquitous of the road signs, but also Reptile World! 1880 Town! Old MacDonald’s Farm! Petrified Forest! In short, we had come upon a portion of I-90 that has more roadside attractions per square mile than any other place in the world, or so I’m guessing. And there’s a reason for that – the number of families doing this drive through South Dakota to Yellowstone as a summer roadtrip is astounding. From packed tiny Toyotas, to SUV’s, to pickups hauling airstreams, to truly massive tour buses, there are hundreds of them … thousands of them. And squished in between are bikers, many of them on their way to Sturgis. But, there’s a good reason they are all here. There’s amazing stuff here.
First, a brief turn-off in the middle of the Grasslands National Park. Who knew there was such a thing?
Then, not much further ahead, we got our first glimpse of a few bluffs, but there was no doubt that we were arriving at the Badlands. Another hour or so and there it was, the turn off for the Badlands National Park. And it was spectacular – first, from a distance, the wall of jagged mountains and then, closer and closer, until we were upon them.
The drive was spectacular, and we stopped a few places along the way, but not too often because we were driving through the hottest part of the country during one of the hottest heat waves ever.
Immediately after the Badlands we finally arrived … 250 miles of road signs couldn’t be wrong – Wall Drug! Free Ice Water! Lots of people! Many things to buy! OK, it was cheesy, but fun.
Motoring along, our next stop was Mt. Rushmore, which we reached around 4:00. It was still over 108 degrees out, so I confess, we didn’t take the interpretive walking tour, or ohh and ahh over it for long. Rather, we came, we saw, we ate ice cream, and we looked for a hotel in Keystone to spend the night.
But the day was not over yet. First a stroll around Keystone where we ran into the one person at the Hertz counter in Sioux Falls who stood up for me during my struggles, and then,after one of the worst meals I have ever had in my life (always beware of the buffet), at dusk we headed to Crazy Horse to see the monument that’s been more than 50 years in the making, and will most likely be another 100 before it is done. That was followed by a cheezy laser show which became absurd when it ended with Lee Greenwood's "Proud to Be An American" (somehow, I don't think the native americans would appreciate much of the lyrics) and a quick trip back by Rushmore to see it lit up at night.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 17, 2011 from Keystone, United States

Beauty and Frustration
Gillette, United States
Well, the days and days of driving finally got to us. At least to me.
We started the morning with a spectacular drive through the Black Hills, which offered amazing views of Mt. Rushmore and the mountains. The smell of pine was overwhelming, and I loved every minute of it. But, it was a slow, winding road and much to my frustration, the girls showed little or no interest in any of it – Jordan was texting and Ellery was reading. There was dead silence in the car and the only time anyone spoke up it was to ask for something. My frustration started to build.
Jordan wanted to see one of the caves, so we headed out to Jewel Cave National Monument. And we decided to take the long way, the “wilderness loop” through Custer State Park. And, much to my surprise, we did see some bison, and some (not very) wild donkeys, and a few pronghorn sheep (or maybe they were antelope – they were in the distance).
But, it was a two lane road and we were stuck behind several cars who thought that driving 10 miles an hour was a good pace. It wasn’t for me. And Jordan refused to get out of the car when, for example, we stopped to pet the donkeys. For some reason, this really bothered me.
Still, we continued on to Jewel Cave where, much to my surprise, almost all of the decent tours were sold out several hours in advance. What we were left with was a short trip into just one cave, and even that required an hour and a half wait. Jordan wanted to wait for a longer tour, but I just didn’t have it in me.
After the cave, we hit the road again, back up through the Black Hills where the continuing beauty was completely lost on the girls.
Finally, we reached Wyoming, and our next destination – Devil’s Tower. What I thought would be a quick look and go turned into a really lovely mile walk around the base. Lovely, except Jordan surged ahead because she did not want to do the walk. Yes, we had each reached our breaking point at Devil’s Tower.
Things did not improve measurably after Devil’s Tower, except the scenery, which did take on that classic red rock look of Wyoming. But dinner at an Appleby’s was complete silence and when we did eventually settle in at a roadside motel, I told the girls that it we were going to put the day behind us and move on, and that tomorrow would be better. At least, I was hoping it would be, because we have two more weeks of this.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 18, 2011 from Gillette, United States

It's Getting Better
Wapiti, United States
Both the weather and the tension finally broke. Although this was basically just another day of driving, it was through some of the most beautiful country I’ve seen. And, even better, the girls were slightly more animated, making it a pleasant day overall. (Very few pictures were taken, for a variety of reasons, most notably the fact that I didn't bring the good camera and I'm a horrible landscape photographer).
The road from Gillette to Cody, while mostly boring highway, crossed through Bighorn National Forest. We spotted our first (and possibly last) moose, but for the most part the beauty was in the scenery, ranging from rugged mountains still covered in snow in mid-July to massive fields of wildflowers. The highest pass is nearly 10,000 ft., and you can really feel the altitude. And, most remarkably, there were cyclists – dozens of them – making their way through the mountains with us. Really, I can’t imagine anything more insane (yes, I’m talking to you Michael and Kevin).
We made it to Cody around 2 p.m., had lunch at a local diner, then found our way to our home for the next four nights, the Rand Creek Ranch. The scenery along the way was even better, if that was possible, as we crossed over the Buffalo Bill damn and into what is known as "the fifty most beautiful Miles in America."
The girls immediately found their way to the stables and went for an hour trail ride as I relaxed from a week of driving, and made onward plans (Jackson Hole – in; Santa Fe – out). Then it was back to Cody for dinner at Bubba’s Bar-B-Que (where none of us had bar-b-que) and a wind storm that came from nowhere and disappeared the same way. Then a bit of time was spent at the campfire before we settled in for the night.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 19, 2011 from Wapiti, United States

A Most Excellent Day - Part One
Yellowstone National Park, United States
If things “broke” yesterday, today they sprang forward. I guess I forgot about moody periods and how they can end as quickly as they approach, but today Jordan, and as a result Ellery, were almost giddy, something that had not yet happened on this trip. Jordan, unlike Ellery, is not a talker, not a hugger, and rarely even a smiler, even if she’s enjoying herself. But today, she seemed to come into her own, and a whole new person developed. Even as I type this, at almost eleven in the evening, Ellery, Jordan and two friends they have made here at the Ranch, are off somewhere in the darkness, laughing and having fun.
So today, we finally made it to Yellowstone. What an incredible place. I’m not sure, overall, the beauty exceeds what we’ve seen so far on this trip, but the sheer number of sights and views and wildlife is incredible. It can take over an hour to go 10 miles, because every few miles there’s something to pull off the road to see, whether it is a herd of bison or a bubbling cauldron or a raging waterfall (or two or five or ten). After a while, there’s so much of it, there’s no more pictures you can take, you just have to take it all in.
The thirty mile drive to the park entrance is as majestic as the 22 miles from Cody, jagged rocky peak after peak. Then, once inside the park, it is a winding road along Yellowstone Lake to the first major intersection, at Fishing Bridge. There we stopped to buy sweatshirts as it was below 60 degrees (and to think we were in 110 degree heat just two days ago) and to buy provisions for lunch.
From there, we decided to head north to Mammoth Hot Springs, but there was so much to see along the way. First, it was two Elk just off to the side of the road; we probably should have stopped to take a closer look but instead we pressed onward, hoping it wouldn’t be our only sighting of the day. Just a bit further, we spotted our first bison up close, just two of them, waiting for us – and for the dozens of other cars pulled off to the side of the road.
And not much longer after that, an entire herd of bison, grazing along the Yellowstone River. OK, bison. Check. And this wasn’t the last herd, but as one of the kids staying at the ranch said last night at the campfire, “At this point, a bison would have to be doing a cartwheel for me to stop and take a picture of it.” They are ubiquitous. And getting stuck in the pile up of cars that slow and pull off to the side of the road at every sighting gets very old, very fast.
Our first side trip out of the car was to see the mud volcanos. Yep, mud. Yep, they bubble. Yep, they stink of sulphur. But they’re still fascinating to see from the raised wooden walkways that wind through them.
Just a little further along, near Otter Creek, we stopped for our picnic lunch. Very lovely setting, but we were clearly outgunned. We had some bread, peanut butter, and chips. Other families had prepared a bit better, with coolers and salads and feasts fit for kings (or a family of six living out of a camper for 2 weeks).
We continued along to Canyon Village, through Hayden Valley, where every guide book assured us was prime wildlife viewing. Um, no. Beautiful rolling hills and valleys of purple and pink and yellow wildflowers, but no wildlife to speak of.
After Canyon Village we pushed north toward Roosevelt, through Dunraven Pass (which still had a fair amount of snow on it) and past Mt. Washburn. We declined to hike up to the peak, at 10,250 ft., admitting to ourselves that we might just be the laziest visitors ever to make it to Yosemite. But, just before arriving at Roosevelt, we came to Tower Falls and did some hiking along the path down to (and up from) the lower falls. The upper falls could be seen crashing down in the distance; the lower falls were crashing down directly below us. The walk was well worth it.
From here we also had remarkable views of the Yellowstone River and the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone.
Well, our day was barely half over … but now, I’ve got to get some rest. July 20 will be continued ….
written by  shoshtrvls on July 20, 2011 from Yellowstone National Park, United States

Wait, There's More!
Yellowstone National Park, United States
So, when we last left off, we said farewell to the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone and continued North. As we drew close to Mammoth Hot Springs we came upon our next wildlife sighting – a herd of female and young elk in a clearing off the side of the road. We got as close as we dared – close enough for the elk to look at us, but far enough so that they didn’t seem to care much.
After this Wilderness adventure, we finally made it to Mammoth Hot Springs. Interesting enough – several levels of pools of water, creating a Terrace effect.
We also stopped at the service area at Mammoth Springs for ice cream, a nice diversion. Mammoth Springs was definitely the nicest tourist area in the park that we had seen to date. And, it was only 2 Miles from the Montana border, so a quite side trip was definitely in order.
From there it was down to the Norris Geyser Basin, a large grouping of steaming hot pools which evidently erupt every so often – like every five years or so for the largest of them. Definitely an interesting sight, and a teaser for tomorrow’s trip to Old Faithful.
It had been a long day, and we were ready for home. Driving back was much quicker – no need to stop for those pesky buffalo or elk sightings. And, unlike literally dozens of photographers, we were not on dusk grizzly bear watch.
We arrived back just as the nightly campfire was taking shape. Wisely, earlier in the day we had purchased all the makings for s’mores, so that’s what the girls, along with their new friends before heading off to play somewhere in the dark before we all collapsed in bed around midnight.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 20, 2011 from Yellowstone National Park, United States

Geysers and Springs
Cody, United States
Back into Yellowstone with one destination in mind – Old Faithful. So, it was back on the highway 30 Miles to the East Entrance, then 27 Miles past Yellowstone Lake, then 21 Miles to West Thumb (see where I’m going with this? Even reaching this trip’s destination does not mean the end of driving), crossing the Continental Divide, then a final 17 Miles to Old Faithful.
Woah. Masses of people. I’m thinking there are people who come to Yellowstone, see this geyser, and then leave. Which is, honestly, what we did. We arrived just after it spouted so had lunch and waited the 75 minutes or so for the next eruption. As did lots and lots of other people. And while Old Faithful didn’t disappoint, I have to say it was a bit anti-climatic. But, it can now be checked off the “been there, done that” list.
Much more interesting and impressive were the pools a Midway Geyser Basin, a bit further up the road. Beautiful blue steaming turquoise ponds surrounded by red and orange clay. Really beautiful to see.
We then headed back, stopping briefly at Kepler Cascades, a very picturesque little Waterfall.
After about an hour break at the cabin, we headed back into Cody for dinner and the rodeo. We had a really fine meal (truly) at a restaurant near the stadium, and then headed in for the evening’s festivities.
Another disappointment. The “show” was corny and at time offensive (Brokeback Mountain jokes the prime offenders), and the riders themselves were not that good or graceful. It was like seeing a bad bullfight, but without the bill dying. We were more than happy to leave after the bull-riding, back to our cabin for the night.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 21, 2011 from Cody, United States

Ready and Relaxed
Wapiti, United States
Today was a relatively relaxed day, so not much of interest to report. We slept in, and then drove a few Miles up the road to another ranch for a 2 hour trail ride, which took us across several small streams and up the side of one of the canyon walls for some very nice views.
Then, it was back into Cody for lunch and a stop to pick up supplies at the local Wal-Mart.
The day ended with Ellery and I watching Close Encounters of the Third Kind (love that Amazon instant streaming) in light of our recent stop at Devil’s Tower.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 22, 2011 from Wapiti, United States

Meeting Up
Teton Village, United States
A much more active day. We were up almost at dawn and on the road by 7 a.m. This was intentional, as we had plans to meet Gary, Leslie and Jake for an 11 a.m. float down the Snake River. As I had received estimates of the time it would take to get to Moose of between 3-1/2 and 6-1/2 hours, I knew I had to make good time. And we did – under 3 hours. Of course, it helped that there wasn’t much traffic through Yellowstone, that we had seen that stretch of road and the attendant sights several times by now, and that the road through the Tetons was fairly flat and straight.
Oh, but what a drive. I seriously did not expect the Tetons to be as beautiful as they were. Pictures do the best talking here (especially since the girls are now, evidently, "bored" with mountains).
Having made it to Moose in record time, we waited for the Thompsons at the Visitors Center before heading off for our float trip, which offered even more fabulous views of the mountains as well as a bald eagle or two.
On our way back to Teton Village, we finally got a good look at a moose – a young male, not very large, but still impressive.
Then it was time to check into our hotel, the Snake River Lodge, a very nice place. Ellery and Jake then headed off for a horseback ride, Jordan to the room to do whatever it is she does on the computer, and me to the spa for a quick 20 minute massage. Heaven.
The kids then spent some time swimming and the day eventually ended with a very nice dinner together at the Mangy Moose, after which Ellery went back to Jake’s hotel for a last late night swim.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 23, 2011 from Teton Village, United States

A Very Bad Day Saved By Very Good Friends
Denver, United States
Well, if I thought things were improving with Jordan, I was wrong.
As planned, since Jordan has never seen snow, our morning was set to begin with a 9 a.m. ride up with Jake up the Gondola to the top of Jackson Hole, were there was breakfast of waffles and nutella (Jordan’s proclaimed favorite food), to be followed by frolicking in the snow. Ellery and Jake and I enjoyed all these things amongst some amazing views (which included watching snowboarders make tracks in late July!)
Jordan did not, however, enjoy any of these things. As Ellery and I had come to learn, Jordan is not a morning person, but her mood this morning was as bad as it had ever been. She did not enjoy the ride up the gondola, she did not like the waffle (and yelled at Ellery when Ellery asked how it was), and refused to partake in any reindeer games. It was now clear that, under any circumstances, Jordan was not having fun – whether it was because she is 16, because she was homesick, because she didn’t enjoy our company, or whatever it was, it wasn’t going away. And things did not get any better when I told her that I would tolerate many things, but being rude and mean to Ellery and Jake was not one of them.
This resulted in a crying fit of significant proportions, a lengthy conversation with someone about how I was treating her like a 12 year old (earth to Jordan – even adults like snowball fights in July) purposely made within my earshot, and, unfortunately, a 9 hour drive through beautiful Shoshone National Forest, with amazing wide open green pastures, and the Wind River Canyon, with striking red rocks, in complete, steaming, angry silence. And then another 7 hours of the most boring drive I have ever made (really, worse than Kansas or Texas). As much as I kept telling myself that this was merely moody teenager behavior, or that it would pass, I was pretty overwhelmed by her anger, even when she decided not to participate in the ritual cross-the-state-border photo (a ritual that she, herself, initiated).
Fortunately, relief was waiting in Denver, in two magnificent forms – the Lynch/Hyman family from Texas and David Picker and his girlfriend Anne. So, after checking into a beautifully large room at the Westin, Ellery and I (without Jordan, who chose to stay in the hotel and have room service – a choice I did not dissuade her from) met up with Leslie, Phil, Rachel and Gabe for a very nice and enjoyable dinner at a restaurant on the 16th Street mall. Then, while the kids went up to Phil and Leslie’s hotel room, we met up with David and Anne for drinks, where I promptly cried my eyes out over the stress of the day, which they allowed me to do, along with offering me various theories of what was going on, all aimed at making me feel better. And when I said, “Really, I’d love to just put her on a plane home, but I don’t want it to end this way,” Phil said, quite wisely, “Why don’t you just offer her the opportunity to go home?” I thought about it, and realized that despite the fact that I had wanted to see this trip through, really, that was the simplest solution. If she said yes, it would make us all happier; if she said no, it meant that she was committed to the trip and, hopefully, would be happier about it.
So, we came back to the room and I asked her. “Do you want to send me home?” she asked. “No, I don’t, but I’m giving you the opportunity to go home.” “Well, if you don’t want to send me home, then don’t.” OK, I thought, she wants to stay. It isn’t as bad for her as it seems. But just a few minutes later, she piped up, “There’s a 10:30 flight but I can’t change my ticket.” So, that was the answer – and it was OK. She was homesick, she wasn’t enjoying herself, she definitely wanted to go home. I bought the plane ticket.
Throughout the night, I thought maybe she would change her mind in the a.m., but that would be OK too.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 24, 2011 from Denver, United States

Relax and Reload
Denver, United States
For nearly the first time since the trip began, Jordan was up without any prodding and quickly packed. If there was any doubt last night that she was ready to go home, it was resolved. She wanted to go home. So, we drove to the airport, again in silence but, this time, not an angry one. I asked her if she wanted me just to drop her off and she said no, so I helped her check in and walked her to security. As I told her that I hoped we’d see her again, maybe in a less stressful situation, and that I really did like her, she gave me a slight smile as she headed through the screeners.
Yesterday and today were days when I really needed friends; I was amazingly lucky, really, to have them waiting for me in Denver.
While I was sad to see Jordan go, things really did lighten up; it was really the best thing for all of us. I returned to Denver proper and joined Leslie and Ellery for breakfast. Soon, we picked up Gabe and explored the 16th Street Mall in a bit more depth, and made our way to the capital for the obligatory sighting of the mile-high marker (although I’m told there are three of them and no one is really sure which step is a mile high). Eventually, Phil and Rachel also joined us, and we spend several nice hours just hanging by the swimming pool. At which point Ellery suggested that the women all get pedicures so, off we went and had our toes painted.
After saying good-bye to Phil, Leslie, Rachel and Gabe, we returned to our room briefly, but were soon picked up by David and Anne, and we all headed to a very cute little neighborhood overlooking the city for a nice Mexican dinner at Lola, a stroll around the neighborhood, and a drive through various parts of Denver (which included our sighting of a Calatrava bridge under construction – we’ve now seen four Calatravas on three different continents). Denver really is a lovely city; lots of diverse neighborhoods, a solid city Center, and enviable natural beauty.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 25, 2011 from Denver, United States

A Day On The Road
Kansas City, United States
This will be a short update because today was nothing but a long, long, long day in the car, driving from Denver to Kansas City, Mo. Lots of driving, punctuated by only two stops of any note: Fort Hays, Kansas (where there is an EnerSys plant, and where my friend Katherine went to school) and the Brookville Hotel in Abeliene for the best fried Chicken dinner anywhere.
Oh, and we did stay at the same crappy Holiday Inn as the Kansas City Chiefs, back in training after the lock-out ended. Those are some big, big guys.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 26, 2011 from Kansas City, United States

Eastward Ho!
Saint Louis, United States
Yes, I’m a bit behind in the blogging, and the downside of that is that it is difficult to remember the details. Not the big stuff, but the little stuff like … where the hell were we on Wednesday?
Ah yes, we started in Kansas City, MO. And we drove east, arriving in St. Louis just around 10:00 a.m. I don’t recall anything about the drive, except that I believe it was rather unimaginative – nothing particularly beautiful or ugly. Just road.
The plan was to drive by the Arch, snap a few photos, and continue on to Memphis in time for the 5 p.m. duck walk at the Peabody Hotel (where I had decided we would spend the night, after our less-than-stellar Holiday Inn experience). But that Arch is pretty alluring – close up and in person, it is pretty magnificent. Since we had made good time, so up we went. (Actually, first you have to go down below the Arch, and then you take a pod-like tram to the top). And I realized that St. Louis is one hell of a big city. Really big. Oh, and the Mississippi River is pretty ugly down here, as compared to up North.
After the Arch we walked along a small historic Riverfront area (in need of some life), ate lunch and got back on the road. But, eeek! Would we make it by 5 p.m.? It was looking iffy but I was determined to make a go of it.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 27, 2011 from Saint Louis, United States

A Little Night Music
Memphis, United States
We crossed into Arkansas – quick, stop for a photo, but keep moving. We crossed into Tennessee – quick, stop for a photo, but keep moving. Yes, we were going to make it, with 3 minutes to spare (seriously) when, disaster struck in the form of … a wrong turn. Yes, a single wrong turn got us to the Peabody at 5:10, minutes after the ducks had departed for the evening. Sigh … well, there was still tomorrow.
So, we checked in, went to the rooftop for a view of Memphis, and then I had my annual meat fix at the Rendez-Vous. Bar-be-que that was definitely worth it.
Then we headed to Beale Street. Everything I remembered and more – the more in this case being Bike Night, a Wednesday night tradition. Hundreds of bikers and bikes. Plus the usual streetside musicians, beer garden bands, and wandering crowds. And “Sitting on the Dock of the Bay” being played and sung at every single bar up and down the street. Really, Memphis didn’t turn out any other song? None?
Well, tomorrow includes a stop at Graceland, so we’ll see if there isn’t another tune or two around.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 27, 2011 from Memphis, United States

Duck Walk
Memphis, United States
We did more today than I ever expected.
Up early, our goal was to see the National Civil Rights Museum first thing in the morning, then head back to the hotel for the 11:00 a.m. duck walk, and from there to Graceland. So, we took the Main Street trolley down to the Lorraine Motel and were there well in advance of the opening time. And yes, I felt very guilty that we rushed through the museum in an hour and a half – it was well worth a longer trip, but Ellery was determined to see the ducks and, well, I wasn’t going to let her down. But, there was a lot to be had in that hour and a half – I had forgotten how well-done the exhibits were, and there was a half-hour film about MLK, Jr.’s last days that was really very good. In the end, the only part of the museum that we gave short shrift to was the portion in the building where James Earl Ray took his shot, dealing with his capture and prosecution.
We did make it back to the Peabody in time for the duck walk, which Ellery dutifully captured on video. It was, indeed, quite fun and I’m glad we saw it.
Then it was back on the road, just a few Miles, to Graceland. Is it wrong that we spent more time at Graceland than at the Civil Rights Museum? Probably, but Graceland is so over-the-top, so kitchy fun, how can you not take the time to see all the gaudiness that was Elvis?
written by  shoshtrvls on July 28, 2011 from Memphis, United States

Down Under
Mammoth Cave, KY, United States
Up until this morning, we really had no plans for after Memphis, just the quickest route home. But then I noticed that Mammoth Cave in Kentucky was a possibility. The longest known cave in the world, it couldn’t be missed. So that’s where we headed, arriving at the delightfully run-down, old-fashioned Mammoth Cave Hotel within the National Park (this was our 11th National Park of the trip, in case you’re counting) well after dark, where we were greeted by a small snake at our front door. After shooing him away, we made it inside just in time to fall fast asleep.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 28, 2011 from Mammoth Cave, KY, United States

More Caving
Mammoth Cave, KY, United States
Mammoth Cave National Park is, quite simply, gorgeous. It may actually be my favorite of all the parks we’ve seen; so lush and green and, even more importantly, so full of life. I don’t think I’ve heard as many birds, as many crickets, as many bugs anywhere else.
After a short hike around, we walked to the visitor’s Center shortly after it opened, and good thing we did as many of the tours were sold out well in advance, and those that hadn’t been were selling out fast. But, we were able to get tickets for the one we wanted, the two hour “Heritage Tour.”
Well, Mammoth Cave is spectacular, by far my favorite cave to date (although Ellery still prefers The Caves we saw in Belize). And the tour was great; the Ranger described in wonderful detail how people have been touring the cave, and writing their names on the walls and ceilings, since the early 1800’s. And the fact that it was cool in the cave – compared to the 100 degrees plus temperatures that have followed us throughout this trip – was an added bonus.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 29, 2011 from Mammoth Cave, KY, United States

Almost Heaven, Almost Home
Sutton, United States
Leaving Mammoth Cave, we started heading for home. But … wait … there’s more! What’s that sign ahead? Lincoln’s birthplace awaits!
So, a quick diversion there, and back on the road. And what a road! Through Versailles and Lexington, some of the most beautiful horse country I could have imagined, and then through the Allegheny Mountains of West Virginia, finally stopping for the night in a huge Days Motel on the top of a hill that appears to cater to the hundreds of people who come to this lake region for a weekend (or more) of recreation.
written by  shoshtrvls on July 29, 2011 from Sutton, United States

Home Sweet Home
Philadelphia, United States
There’s nothing more to say. No stops today – we were homeward bound and nothing was stopping us.
Final Stats: 19 Days, 19 States, 12 National Parks, 3 World Heritage Sites, 2 Cars, 5,982 Miles!
written by  shoshtrvls on July 30, 2011 from Philadelphia, United States