Nuttter's S.E. Asian Escapade - Groovespook
The continuing Journey of Nuttter in S.E. Asia.

Reality sets in - Departure in 3 days.
West Orange, United States
Well, in Three days, Nuttter gets on a plane, in Newark, New Jersey, for Tokyo, which is in Poland I think? Anyway, she then immediately jumps on another plane from Tokyo for Singapore, then from Singapore to Bangkok, which is in Austria. Or is it Thailand? This is probably around 30 hours of airports, airplanes, security, signs in strange languages, luggage racks, lame vegetarian options, and not much sleep.
Nuttter is nothing if she is not organised and prepared so this last 2 weeks have seen her a veritable whirlwind of camp stores, doctors visits (oh yes, no less than 4 different innoculations for diseases best left to the imagination). Researching and sleuthing the internet for tips and tricks for a trip that will see her trek over Thailand, Laos and Cambodia in a little over 6 weeks. A well deserved adventure for a travel enthusiast who has spent far too much time in one place.
I shall post here often to update the Nuttter fanbase with her exploits as best I can with the snippets of information I will get from the deepest darkest jungles of South East Asia and it's monsoon ridden rain forests.
BACK HOME:
I, alone and destitute with no love or anyone to care for me (sniffs), prepare to wreak havoc on the entire upstairs quarters of our home whilst Nuttter is making friends and taking 7000 pictures of ancient monuments and luxurious landscapes in S.E. Asia. I will also have boring updates about MY life to counter her adventures with some of the boring reality of... reality.
written by  Groovespook on July 9, 2009 from West Orange, United States
from the travel blog: Nuttter's S.E. Asian Escapade

AND SO IT BEGINS!
Newark, United States
So although this is not really about me, it is mostly my voice so you will all have to suffer through my "prose".
As Nuttter's journey takes off in about 20 minutes, there is really no news. However, I am alone in the house and a little stunned that she is actually on her way so yes, this will be a little long winded as I get used to the idea of Nuttter galavanting around S.E. Asia for ages.
I shall endeavor to place Nuttter's direct quotes - when they come in - in italics (is that alright Joe? - just a slight paranoia from a man who thought "punctuation" was a scientific term describing the Sex Pistols and who never really got "grammar". Hell, there is a reason I cannot play Mad Libs. Ugh, me, surrounded by professional journalists...Oh, and Joe. OH SNAP! - yeah, I went there!) The Italics is a nice way you can skip to the interesting "real thing".
Nuttter will shortly be on a plane for hours and hours and I will be in a state of frantic worry and despair (is that overboard?) I will be slightly concerned (that's not enough is it?) I will be on tender-hooks! (perfect - a butchery metaphor) till I hear from our dear Singapore based friends on midnight, Friday night (their time) (around Lunchtime Friday).
So yeah, more about me. I have been buried in an utter whirlwind of one's and zero's at work which completely sucks. For a few minutes a day I actually weigh up what is happening to my love life and realize that the very reason d'etre for my existence, the woman who changed my world, switched on my hear... (oh, vomiting, sorry)... is leaving for deepest, darkest S.E. Asia for 7 weeks. Strolling around without a care in the world. Viewing ancient monuments almost completely swallowed by nature's awesome wrath, seeing a world far away from the Tri-State Area's self important TRIPE. (wait, that might be a bit harsh, I do love the place).
So, the last few days have been pretty tough for Nuttter. Responses to " I am going to Thailand, Laos and Cambodia for 7 weeks" - something Nuttter has learnt to play close to her heart (one wonders why until one reads 1 thru 5) - have ranged from...
1. "WHY? But holy crap, WHY?"
2. " Good God woman.. Alone?" (Images of diseased Asian children on roadsides begging for food. Lifeless, charred bodies in ditches filled with water &c., &c.)
3. "What? Where? (flashing images of land mines, snakes, Agent Orange, spiders &c., &c.)
4. "Woah, wow, that's... ...interesting, why?" (flashing images of Asian policemen with m-16's, prisons, drugs, sex trades &c., &c.)
5. "HE is letting you go there?" (images of Groovespook, sheepish, then angry, close up of mad bloodshot eyes &c., &c.)
to...
6. "THAT'S AWESOME!" (Images of young, spritely AUS, NZ, UK and SA backpackers, laughing and drinking &c., &c.)
7. "I am SOOOOOOO Jealous" (Images of Angkor Watt, majestic mountains jutting from impenetrable rain forests &c., &c.)
8. " I have always wanted to go there you are so lucky!" Images of cute rainforest creatures, smiling Asian children, Delicious FOOD &c., &c.)
The ratio of these responses, sadly, has been 80-90% 1-5, and only 10-20% 6-8.
Further research and canvasing by an independent body (I was under the influence of alcohol) has determined that the 80-90% "nay-sayers", have been mostly the American contingent. Closer and more constant in our lives, this has presented a bit of a telling tale. Namely. AMERICANS NEED TO GET OUT MORE!!! And yes, OUT OF AMERICA. I said it. I mean it. GO GO GO GO GO, the world is amazingly fantastic and only slightly scary.
Nuff said. Well, probably too much said really. But this is my intro rant for those that are not prepared for the style (if style it be deemed) of Groovespook.
AT HOME.
Today I intend to start removing all furniture from upstairs, setting up the living room as my new apartment and then bashing holes in the upstairs ceilings. YIPPEE!!!!
Groovespook.
written by  Groovespook on July 9, 2009 from Newark, United States
from the travel blog: Nuttter's S.E. Asian Escapade

Sing, sing, singapore!
Singapore, Singapore
Nuttter has safely arrived in Singapore, it's 1am, our friends have been partying it up a storm and were in high spirits when she arrived, I video conferenced on SKYPE and lots of fun is being had by all. Except me of course. At work. Not in Singapore. Tomorrow Nutter is slated to go into the jungle for a bit.
AT HOME:
The Ceiling of the Spare Um is now a mass of concrete and plaster on the floor.
Groovespook
written by  Groovespook on July 10, 2009 from Singapore, Singapore
from the travel blog: Nuttter's S.E. Asian Escapade

Singapore - Direct from the source. (No italics available - poo)
Singapore, Singapore
Just wanted to let you all know I have arrived safe and sound. Both flights were good (a little turblulence on that last one, but not too bad). I was quite surprised how many kids/babies were on the flights...even the 13-hour one!
It was wonderful to see my friends at the airport, Abby, Mesh and Virag. Lots of hugs and laughing and catching up. Singapore is stunning. Ridiculously clean. Slept well and woke up at the time I normally do, 6:30 a.m. Even went for a run this morning and it rained! It's quite muggy here so the rain felt good. Very tropical, lots of palm trees and lush green plants.
This morning we headed to Chinatown and Little India. We ate dosi, these huge crepe-like meals stuffed with different foods. Mine had egg and onion and then you get three chutnies on the side. Yum! Had a bit of a walk around and then came back and had a nap. I know, it's a hard life!
Abby and I are now off to go for a walk to grab a bite to eat. It's been so nice to just sit and chat and catch up and relax.
Miss you all and will keep you posted!
Nuttter.
written by  Groovespook on July 11, 2009 from Singapore, Singapore

Singapore Photos
Singapore, Singapore
Just posted a few photos of Singapore stuff.
written by  Groovespook on July 12, 2009 from Singapore, Singapore

Bangkok for a minute
Bangkok, Thailand
Just for a minute before hopping on another plane for Chiang Mai.
written by  Groovespook on July 13, 2009 from Bangkok, Thailand

Chiang Mai - Direct from the source.
Chiang Mai, Thailand
I left Singapore ridiculously early today and, this afternoon, find myself in northern Thailand. Chiang Mai to be precise. It's pretty full-on. An assualt on the senses. The city is surrounded by a moat and cars and motos and tuk-tuks zip by constantly, filling the air with noise. Side streets leading to the main road are packed with guesthouses, eateries and laundry places (by which I mean places where they wash your clothes and hang them out to dry).
It hasn't even been a full day and I am reminded by how friendly fellow travelers and locals can be. I struck up a conversation with an older American couple near the taxi stand at the airport and asked if they wouldn't mind sharing a taxi. They were heading to a guesthouse a bit further north than the one I was seeking (theirs was more expensive). At any rate, they were so friendly and quite inspiring....probably in their late 40s (she grew up in Philly, and he in NY). They are visiting Thailand for three weeks. When we got to their destination, Ken and Lee refused to take my share of the taxi ride. It was incredibly kind of them.
As I headed out to explore the streets of Chiang Mai (you think the streets of Greenwich can get confusing...this place is nuts!!!), I stopped to peek at my map. An older man (probably in his 60s) came up and asked if I needed help. He was American and has been living here for four years. Without even asking, he told me some good spots to check out.
It is so humid here.....taking showers almost seems futile. You just sweat up a storm within seconds. And the street signs are pretty funny....either there are no signs at all or the English version appears differently than what is on your map (apparantly a lot gets lost in the translation and some words just can't be translated!).
It will be a miracle if I find my way out of here.
As on the flights over, I'm quite surprised at how many families are here. Have seen families with youngsters on the plane over and walking the streets. Seems like it's quite the destination for families.
That's it for now. Will hopefully post again soon, but not sure what kind of internet access I'll find in the next few days.
Miss you all and hope everyone is well.
written by  Groovespook on July 13, 2009 from Chiang Mai, Thailand

Chiang Mai and the 300 temples.
Chiang Mai, Thailand
So, dispatches from Thailand have Nuttter wandering around Chiang Mai absorbing the local customs and snapping away at the amazing world she is now part of.
Unfortunately I could not get any photos from her as the internet cafe she is at is powered by hampsters. I have it on good authority that there are roughly 300 temples in Chiang Mai, they just sneak up on you! The humidity is so thick that you can cut it with a knife, Nuttter is working hard to retain moisture and drinking lots and lots of BOTTLED water.
Tomorrow, Nuttter heads for Chiang Khong, on the border of Thailand and Laos. Chiang Khong is a popular border crossing for backpackers and has many guest houses and some fantastic waterfall views along the famous Mekong River. Not sure if she will be staying there for a day or so or continuing into Laos.
MOZZIE BITE TALLY: 1. (Mozzie=Mosquito)
AT HOME:
Hindered by an unwarranted, unannounced and very rude 12hr day at work, nothing was done on Monday. Spare Um is 3/4 prepped for sheet-rocking, I have decided to do the walls as well, stupid not too when going so far. Once I am clear and clean and ready for sheetrocking, I jump into the Office and get that to the same stage.
written by  Groovespook on July 14, 2009 from Chiang Mai, Thailand

The Mighty Mekong.
Chiang Khong, Thailand
Nuttter arrives in the luxury of an AIR-CONDITIONED VAN to Chiang Khong today. A border town between Thailand (good-bye) and Laos (Hello!).
Chiang Khong is a popular back-packing village/town/collection-of-small-buildings clinging to the mighty Mekong River, abound with spectacular views of the river and surrounding mountainous forestation. Replete with secluded waterfalls that provide welcome relief from the sweltering humidity for locals and travellers alike. The cool fresh water, piped directly from Evian I am told, thunders over volcanic rock into pleasant estuaries and pools. probably.
MOZZIE BITE TALLY: 1. "Cutter Advanced" has proved it's worth in Field testing so far.
AT HOME:
The office is well on the way to being in much the same state as Spare Um. Skirting board and window frames gone, the ceiling is cringing at that dormant hammer lying on the floor beneath it. It knows what's next.
Groovespook
written by  Groovespook on July 16, 2009 from Chiang Khong, Thailand

Loaung Namtha - Laos (from Dispatches)
Louang Namtha, Laos
Just heard that Nuttter has rented a bicycle ( I know, Nuttter on wheels - scary) and is cycling around Louang Namtha like a kid. Internet access and connection speed makes the hampster-powered Thailand look like FIOS so messages are short.
The bus from Chiang Khong to Louang Namtha took about 3 hours through incredibly windy roads and scenery that defies description - Photos should be coming in a few days.
Groovespook
written by  Groovespook on July 16, 2009 from Louang Namtha, Laos

Muang Xay/Muang Xay/Udomaxi/Oudomxay
Muang Xai, Laos
One of the greatest challenges I am facing now is the naming of Lao or Loatian villages/towns/cities. The language itself has some untranslatable noises and so maps and references on the internet to places where Nuttter has been and is headed are spelled differently depending on the source. Hence the entry title.
Good news is, the place where she is staying has WIFI!!! population of about 12 I think, but Wifi, LOVE the priorities.
Still no uploads of images yet but for the curious, if you click on any of the orange words (generally places - sometimes what Blogabond THINKS is places) it will take you to other blogs from backpackers that have visited these places - most of them have pictures) Alternatively, download Google Earth. it is fantastic and is linked to this site http://www.panoramio.com where the entire world post images and places them on the map of the world.
Nutter spent a fairly uneventful (reads: She did not get travel sick) windy, bumpy 4 hr bus ride from Louang Mantha to Muang Xai after a fantastic hike through the forested countryside.
She was joined on the hike by a couple of backpackers and a family of 4 (2 girls aged 12 and 13 with them) Lots of slipping and sliding in mud from recent rains made the trip more fun and word has it (though there are no eye witnesses) Nuttter was the only one that DID NOT fall in the mud.
Victoria, the 13yr old, found a leech on her and caused a bit of a panic through the group, turns out Nuttter had 4 on her. "Leeches, filthy little beggers" (Bogart - The African Queen)
They were still very small though so had not sucked much blood out. Bet you are all glad about that. Bet you all did not probably want to know that really. He he!
MOSSIE BITE COUNT: Still 1
LEECH COUNT: 4
Yeah, about that. I am staring out from a tranquil home, the upstairs apartment of Nuttter's sister, husband and angelic little boy. A choppy lake in Mantaloking reflects the early morning sky. It glistens on the water like muted, crinkling kitchen foil. The world slows down a bit when we visit here. Still, I am thinking about the office ceiling that I will be SMASHING TO PIECES this afternoon.
written by  Groovespook on July 18, 2009 from Muang Xai, Laos

The Slow Down.
Luang Prabang, Laos
Nuttter spent three entire days wandering towards Luang Prabang, still no pictures, the internet cafe's have cottoned on to the enormous downloading that back-packers are want to do and have pretty much made it as difficult as possible to do. Oh sure, they will put them on a disc for you for a nominal fee, but frown upon uploads and stuff so it has been a pain to get any visuals of this spritely young woman, dancing around giant ant hills (dancing to keep the ants off I am told) in giant rain-forests.
Nuttter should be slowing down the pace a bit and getting some much needed R and R now that a familiarity with Laos has started to take affect.
MOZZIE COUNT: 4
LEECH COUNT: 4
The Legend that is Rich came over this evening and, in a whirly-gig of high energy and coke swilling madness, helped to get another stage complete while I busied myself running cables all over the ceiling and walls for the ALL NEW ELECTRIC UPSTAIRS. Still prepping for Sheetrock, the walls are TERRIBLE and a myriad of hurdles must be crossed. Things are moving slowly and have me a bit panicky. Nothing a weekend away camping won't fix right? (gulp). Must not sweat it too much, rushing is the real danger here, not having it all done when Nuttter returns is not.
Unless I get the "expected" email from "Her Laosness, Queen of all the Ants" tomorrow, I doubt there will be another post until Monday of next week. Nuttter does read the blog though and is bitterly disappointed there are not more comments. She misses everyone greatly.
written by  Groovespook on July 22, 2009 from Luang Prabang, Laos

Luang Prabang, Laos - DIRECT FROM THE SOURCE!!
Luang Prabang, Laos
After my all-day hike, leech adventure. I headed south to Udomaxi. It's a sleepy pitstop of a place but beautiful nonetheless....surrounded by towering mountains surrounded by mist.
From there, it was another bus ride to Nong Kiahaw and who should be on the bus but the family that was part of my hike! In addition to the four of them, two French sisters (in their 50s) were on the bus. Plus me. It was a very winding and swervy road with stunning scenary. I think the worst part is seeing such lush beauty and not being able to document it!!
We arrived and all of us booked into the Sunrise Guesthouse, a lovely place with bungalows overlooking the river. Very sweet. The town has a bridge that pedastrains can cross that offers wonderful views of the river and surrounding mountains (and more mist!). I immediately hired a bike and went off in search of a cave in the area. Found it and did some exploring before cycling around a bit more and then heading back. Had a lovely dinner at an Indian restaurant (yes, Indian). The garlic naan bread was heavenly!
The next day I headed further south to Muang Ngoi Neau (that's okay, I still can't pronounce it properly). It rained the whole day, which was fine. It meant just chilling on the outdoor veranda/hutch that overlooked the river. Stunning views. The French sisters (I swear they were hardcore travelers... They are going for some 6 months and are now heading far north on a 5-hour boat ride) and I stayed at the same place. Another bungalow with views of the river and surrounding karts.
The "main road" in town was a dirt road about a mile/two miles long. The children would spend time drawing pictures in the dirt. There is no electricity except between 6 p.m. and 10 p.m., which added charm to the place (seeing the food stalls light up with candles and Christmas lights). The following morning I was unsure if I was going to stay another day or not. The town is known for its cave so I decided to see if I could get to it before the 9:30 a.m. boat left. The roosters have a knack for waking me up. There was one right under my bungalow (I swear!) that started going at about 4:30 a.m.). Fellow roosters then tried to outdo him.
At any rate, I walked in my sandals through muddy paths and passed locals on their way to the rice field (I'm fairly certain they have never seen a tourist up that early). I went for about an hour before I had to turn back. At the bungalow, I decided I would stay on for another day. I ate and then returned to the trail determined to reach the cave this time. Again, I wore sandals. It's de rigour (the locals either walk barefoot or wear flip flops). I was having fun, snapping pics of clusters of butterflies and lovely flowers and stomping through the mud like a child when I stopped and looked down. And there they were.....leeches! I SWEAR I have had enough!! No guide around this time to de-leech me so I grabbed any old leaf and did my best. One was wriggling on my sandal in search of skin and another had latched on (quite well I might add) to my big toe. It truly ruined the hike for me because I was paranoid for the rest of the journey (although I'm happy to report there were no more leech attacks).
I reached the cave and headed back. It was neat to see the trail at different hours of the day (mist and no mist). In the evening, I partied with the locals! Well, not really partied. The son of the guesthouse owner invited me to join him for some drinks (and no, it wasn't like that). So, I took him up on it. Had my first taste of lao lao (rice whiskey). Tastes like tequilla. Had three wee glasses and held my own.
The next day it was off to Laung Prabang. When I got back to Nong Kiahaw, myself and five other backpackers learned that the minivan with comfy seats and AC was leaving at 1 p.m. and would take three hours. The sangwalthea (not sure about the spelling....bascially a pickup type of vehichle with "seats" in the back, covered. You sit and face one another)...that was leaving within minutes and would take four hours. We opted for door number two. It was quite an experience....sitting still for four hours, I felt like a caged animal. It was quite numbing both physically and mentally. But an adventure nonetheless. We even had three monks jump on for a short part of the trip. LOVE the orange robes.
We arrived early (which is shocking given how very slow everyone here moves....example: it took a restaurant 40 minutes to make a peanut butter and jam sandwich...I kid you not). Got settled and went exploring. Laung Prabang is complete culture shock. I went from no electricity, a bungalow with cows and roosters, a squat toilet (I'll spare you the details but there is no toilet paper involved) to this: a town that is teeming with tourists, streets are LINED with cafes offering cappuccinos, pizzas and pastries. The rooms are tiled and hotel like (no bed-net needed). It's nuts! I think this must be how Westerners feel when they first arrive in NYC.
At any rate, it's a lovely, decadent town. My first day and I sat myself down to a piece of chocolate cake and a fruit shake (thanks Ro and Nalini!). At night, the place comes to life with a whole section of street blocked off from traffic and it's full of vendors under red tents selling handicrafts and all sorts of items. Karen and Monica, you would never leave -- tons of jewelry, scarves, etc.
Now just trying to figure out how I'm going to head out. Wanted to take a flight, but they are booked for the next couple of days. Might have to be a bus... Eight hours. Eek.
Oh, and I found a gym today! I know, I know what you are saying, but I don't care! It was fabulous to go in and have a proper workout. Still able to lift the same weights.
Okay, signing off now. Miss you all dearly. As for the mozzie bite count, just got bit while tapping, so there!
Nuttter.
written by  Groovespook on July 23, 2009 from Luang Prabang, Laos

Laos - Direct from the Source.
Luang Prabang, Laos
YAY! PICTURES!
Laos is hot. How hot? Three showers a day hot. Constant sweat hot. Blazing, punishing sun hot. Want to feel like you are here? Preheat the oven to 400. When it reaches that temp, open the door and lean forward. That blast of thick heat is what it's like here. Every day. All day. Frankly I'm surprised I haven't melted yet!
Tourists here do their best to beat the heat. Walking around under umbrellas, drinking lots of water or having fruit shakes. Wearing shorts, t-shirts. Meanwhile, Lao people walk around in skinny, tight denim or cordoury pants and long-sleeved tops. Show-offs.
Nuttter.
Just got back from a great weekend camping in Wharton State Forest, checked email and YES! One from Nuttter and so have posted another blog entry and uploaded some great photos she took BEFORE cleaning up the camping mess and having a bath that may be the most wonderful bath ever.
written by  Groovespook on July 26, 2009 from Luang Prabang, Laos

Vientianne - Not for long.
Vientiane, Laos
Dispatches from Laos have our hero making a bee-line out of Vientianne to Savannakhet. Vientianne is a little too touristy and - to date - the most expensive place so far. THe bus ride from Vientianne to Savannakhet was billed as 6 hours. reality: 9. OUCH!
AT HOME.
(snoring sounds) "wha... wha? oh, (picks up hammer and bangs on wall) working hard!" (falls back asleep). Nearly have 1 room totally prepped for sheetrock and lights and outlets.
written by  Groovespook on July 28, 2009 from Vientiane, Laos

Sand and Cheese Sandwich anyone?
Savannakhet, Laos
So after a 9 hour bus trip through winding dirt roads in towering mountainous rainforests virtually anyone would be a little ill. Nuttter is resting up and loving Savannakhet. Quiet, cosy litle town. Highlights are the English signs through out the town.
Sand and Cheese Sandwich.
High Peeds Internet.
Enjoy your test! (footer on a menu)
written by  Groovespook on July 28, 2009 from Savannakhet, Laos

Savannakhet, Laos - Direct from the Source.
Savannakhet, Laos
So, following a couple of days in Laung Prabang, it was time to hit the road. I had originally intended to fly to Vietianne but the flights were booked so I hopped on the bus. What a bus ride it was! I was told it would take 6 hours to get there...but, of course, we are talking about laos time. For whatever reason, I continue to believe them when they tell me how long these rides will take! Must be all the smiling they do. At any rate, it was an arduous journey. The first six hours was NONSTOP twisting roads. And I mean nonstop! I was not expecting it at all (where were you with that tidbit of info Lonely Planet?!). Thankfully, I've been taking a motion sickness tablet that works like magic! It doesn't make me sleepy and does the trick. I can even eat! It truly has made all the difference. But, despite the tablet, the bus journey was still grueling.
I did meet some nice people on the bus. A nice guy from Oz (Gold Coast, of course) and a retired couple from Brisbane and a newlywed couple (she was Australian and he was Japanese). The guy got off the bus a stop before me and the other two couples landed in Vietianne with me. It took not six hours, but nine. Granted, we did have to have a tire changed, but that only accounted for 30 minutes.
why so long then you ask? well, that brings me to the cultural lesson of the day. Laos transportation.
Here's how it works. As I mentioned before, the drivers operate on Laos time. This means you never leave on time. And you never arrive on time. There are some VIP buses out there for some routes (this means it's a direct bus to the location you want) but sometimes you have no choice but to go with the public bus.
To give you an example of how the public bus operates, I will use today. I left Savannakhet this morning at 10:30ish (see above regarding the ish comment). I'm fairly certain that the journey to Paske is probably only 3 hours. How long did it take? Five hours.
It started out well. The driver actually left only a couple of minutes late. Typically there is the driver and a co-pilot of sorts who sits at the front of the bus. He helps load baggage and handles the money/tickets. So off we go! Kind of... We then spent the next 45 minutes driving about 5 mph going through town as the bus driver beeped the horn to let the whole world know the Paske bus was coming through! We picked up more people as he went. Finally, after 45 minutes or so, we picked up speed and were going about 40 mph!
Then it's a typical public bus because everybody's gotta eat!!! The bus driver beeps his horn as we get close to a food stall stand and then he pulls over. Some people get off the bus to pee and others stay on. There's never anything said to the passengers so you have no idea if this is a long stop, a short stop or what. I caught on it was a long stop when I saw the driver and his two co-pilots sitting around a table eating! After all, it was noon and we'd already been on the road a whole whopping hour and a half!!!!
For those of us on the bus, we were treated to a group of women coming on board to sell their foods..... kebabs of various grilled meats. Each woman had a bunch of kebabs in each hand. finally, we get back on the road. We pick up more people on the way including a man with some 35 bags of grain (the size of a regular cement bag)!!! So, of course, that took quite a while as the co-pilots considered whether or not they could fit it all on, etc. We get going and then, before you know it, we pull over. A woman had requested this stop. I thought she was getting off the bus (that would be silly!) She wanted to buy some grilled meats at the food stall!!!!
Then, an hour later, it's another stop. And so on and so on. It's actually quite painful (can you tell). To add to the whole experience, there is ALWAYS cheesy Laos/Thai love pop songs playing. Loudly. Everyone seems to love it and it's all about the same thing (girl likes boy, he doesn't know she exists or he is cheating on her or whatever). But this trip was extra special as we had a TV on board so not only did we listen to the music but we got to see the videos (and the lyrics in both Thai and Lao which appeared karoke style, I kid you not). The music videos were too funny! They would depict the lovelorn male/female...adults but they acted like high school kids! Public displays of affection are not accepted here so the videos would never show couples kissing, instead, they would just look at each other, bat their eyelashes and look away. Or, a common theme, they would gaze at a photo of them as a couple on their cell phones and then slowly, dramatically, bring the phone to their lips and kiss it! Or, they would draw hearts in the air while lying on their hello kitty bedsheets (I'm not kidding) or they would call their girlfriend on their cell phone while in a trench in some war (hopefully you are laughing as hard as I did). Honestly, I felt like the main character from a Clockwork Orange by the time we arrived.
A special shout-out to Bloc Party, Home Video, Placebo and New Order....I could not have survived without you!
Needless to say, the trip was exhausting and I couldn't wait to get off the bus! I am now in Paske, southern Laos. From Vietianne, I travelled to Savannkhet where i spent the day and night. I was planning to stay another day but woke up to rain and decided it was time to go (another deciding factor was my guesthouse....very clean, cosy....the condom packet in the room should have been a giveaway...didn't realize people would actually be using them that night..but sure enough at 12:30, 1:30 and through the night I might as well have been sleeping in a brothel--I'll leave the rest to your imagination). It was time to go!
So that is that. Will plan to email again tomorrow. Miss you all and drop me an email and let me know what's cookin'!
Nuttter
written by  Groovespook on July 29, 2009 from Savannakhet, Laos

PHOTOS - Direct from the Source.
Savannakhet, Laos
Just a quick note, got 5 more photos uploaded today. Including this one that proves Nuttter is really there and gives us lonesome friends something to remember her by for the next few weeks.
written by  Groovespook on July 30, 2009 from Savannakhet, Laos

Pakxe - Direct from the Source.
Pakxe, Laos
Arrived in Pakxe and found myself in a large room with a double bed, AC and tv. The bed looked quite comfy and I was looking forward to getting a good night's sleep after the brothel incident in Savannakhet. Alas, it wasn't meant to be. I was in the shower, in the middle of shaving my legs (don't worry this is G-rated) when I felt a bump at my ankle....I felt something that didn't feel right. Well I look down and there is this creepy crawly worm/centipede/slug thing...lots of hairy legs. It scuttled away to the drain area and I used the shower head to make sure it kept going. But after a couple of minutes, I spied it trying to come back into the shower. A word hear about the bathrooms....the showers tend to be a hand-held shower head and there is a drain in the floor for the water...basically you get the bathroom soaked (toilet seat, sink, etc.) and then it dries throughout the day. I was impressed I didn't scream when I saw the bug but the girl in me did come out. I sprayed the drainage opening with DEET (good ole DEET) and kept the bathroom door shut and the light on all night. I also kept the TV on with no sound as a nightlight. I was so paranoid the bug would be crawling all over me during the night that needless to say I didn't sleep well.
I knew I couldn't stay another night there (in addition to the bug at about 4 in the morning a strange juggle animal sound started to come from the bathroom, which had a window). Not sure if it was a gecko (do they make loud noises?) or what but it didn't help the situation.
So, the next morning I checked out and found myself a lovely room on the main street. It normally went for 100,000 kip (or so they told me) but they said I could have it for 90,000 but I asked if they would do it for 80,000 and they did! It's on the top floor with a TV, a fridge and AC and no bug sightings to date. I slept very well last night (although I'll admit I watched crap television, too).
Today I did some wandering around town. It poured all morning so it was a lazy day. A good day to catch up on writing, etc. I was going to go to the gym but was feeling pretty tired in the afternoon and happened upon a spa that looked lovely. So, I went in for a facial. For one hour I was pampered starting with a foot scrub, the facial, an arm, hand and shoulder massage and even a neck massage all for under $10. Ladies, Laos is heavenly!!!
Of course, it begs the question WHY have I waited this long to treat myself to a facial! I'm hoping the budget will allow more of these...it could become addictive. The facial consisted of putting a sesame oil on my face and massaging it in and ended with cucumbers on my eyes and a paste of red fruit that hardened on my face. I was concerned because I've broken out a bit and wasn't sure if the oils would hurt rather than help but my skin looks and feels fantastic. Thank you, Laos!
Nuttter
written by  Groovespook on July 31, 2009 from Pakxe, Laos

Tadlo - from dispatches.
Ban Bakeng, Laos
No, this is NOT Nuttter ON AN ELEPHANT.
This is my fancy new Sub-Panel awaiting a few more cables and grounding rods and so forth. ho hum.
REAL NEWS - - -
I actually had a physical, real-time conversation with our heroine this morning.
Nuttter is in Tadlo which just simply does not appear on any map but from these dispatches I gleaned that it is "near" Ban Bakeng - north of Pakxe.
We are expecting a photo of Nuttter ON AN ELEPHANT (Walking is SOOOO Passé) and news has it that, apparently, the only thing that makes a westerner stand out more than just being a westerner in Tadlo is being a westerner and wandering about ON AN ELEPHANT.
Nuttter met a couple of Portuguese back-packers - they let those people go anywhere!! - and had a wizzy-jolly time chatting about the old country and probably struggling to speak Portuguese (Ouch! - I did go there!)
Nuttter is expected to head to the 4,000 Islands (wonder why they call it that? It's basically where the Mekong just spreads out over a huge area and creates a myriad of islands (probably 4000 of them)). Or she will make a bee-line for Cambodia.
Complications with the electrical side of this project have hindered the pace a bit, I have to instal a sub-panel to deal with the 5 new circuits for the upstairs (Retiring the steel wound 60 yr old stuff for EVER) So virtually everything has GROUND to a halt (there is a pun there - based around having to instal an 8 foot long solid copper grounding rod).
written by  Groovespook on August 3, 2009 from Ban Bakeng, Laos

4000 Islands.
Muang Khong, Laos
Si Phan Don, the 4000 islands. Of course, I cannot locate this on the map above so the closest neighbor is Muang Khong.
Nuttter is in a reqion of breath-taking beauty. The mighty Mekong has spread out into hundreds of tributaries that meander through swampy-grassland and rocky forests, at times restful and calm, at times violent and angry. The Mekong's murky turbulent water so bent on going south that it ignores everything in it's path. Probably.
RANDOM: The Mekong is the 10th largest river in the world. It is estimated to be 2703 Miles long and drains an area that is 307,000 Miles square.
Our adventurous princess is very close to Cambodia now and starting what can only be described as the next leg of this awesome journey, named so simply because it takes place in another country. Dispatches have Nuttter taking it easy for a couple of days and enjoying the sights and locales of the 4000 islands as we/she waves goodbye to Laos.
Oh the utter joy of neat wiring. I suspect by tomorrow that ALL of the wiring - bar connecting a 60 amp breaker and the mammoth #6 cable to the mains - will be complete and awaiting an inspection. Then I think I am going to make a big push for a sheetrock party on Saturday.
written by  Groovespook on August 5, 2009 from Muang Khong, Laos

4000 Islands - Direct from the Source.
Muang Khong, Laos
Tadlo
I was going to leave Tadlo after my first day/night there. Tadlo is a small, sleepy, relaxing spot known for its three waterfalls, two of which can be explored within half an hour. On my first day there that is just what I did. The third waterfall was an hour away by road and I just wasn't in the mood to be walking on a road for that long...didn't seem very scenic.
In the morning, I packed my bag and went to have breakfast. Started chatting to a couple in the place who went for an elephant ride at Tadlo Lodge (which offers lovely bungalows either right alongside one of the waterfalls or right ON TOP of it). And it will set you back a whopping $35 a night. It was much too romantic for a solo stay). At any rate, this couple really enjoyed the elephant ride so I looked into it. Then the owner of the restaurant asked if I was interested in doing a guided trek. I'm not a huge fan of guided treks here mainly because I'd much rather go off on my own and because they tend to bring you into villages where you stare at locals and they stare at you...it feels a bit too voyeuristic for my tastes.
But I was in the mood to interact with others and a French couple were going. So, I unpacked my bag, put on my hiking boots and went on the tour. The funny thing is at the restaurant, there were signs touting the tour "Take trek with English speaking guide, learn about Lao people and their working habits!"
Well, our guide was the restaurant owner's father, a lovely man with black dress slacks, a button down shirt and hat. Fifteen minutes into our trek and I asked him what the people of one village do for work and he just smiled and nodded. So much for English-speaking guide. Although, towards the end of the hike, he did turn to me and say: "You very nice person." So, it was all good!
I hiked with DeeDee and Julie, two very nice Parisians. We hiked to the base of the third waterfall and on our way back it poured. The three of us wore hiking boots and as usual, the locals walk around either barefoot or wearing flip flops. In all weather. It's quite humorous to see the falang (tourists) in their hiking gear, trying to gingerly navigate a muddy path when a local comes running through in flip-flops. Case in point, our guide helped each of us cross a stream. We walked across a line of stones while he held our hands and walked in the knee-deep river!!
The plan after the trek was to ride the elephant but they were booked. So, I went to visit the elephant (he just hangs out, unchained near the lodge). He let me feed him a banana. So I booked an 8 a.m. ride for the following day. The plan was to ride the elephant then leave Tadlo.
But that night I met the Portuguese duo, Isaac and Juoa. We had such a good time, they are the kind of people that light up any space. They are so full of life and positive energy. It was Joa's birthday the following day (the elephant ride day) and I decided to stick around for another night. I'm glad I did. We had fun. The guesthouse owner is a huge jazz lover and there was much music swapping. It was so nice to hear Portuguese being spoken and to hear Portuguese music.
The following day, myself and the two Portuguese (hereby known as the porkchops) headed for the 4,000 islands. We had a brief pitstop in Paske, where we had lunch at our favorite Indian restaurant (honestly, I came close to staying just for the food!) and I had to get more money out as the islands do not have any ATMs.
We then took a VERY crammed open-air truck-like vehicle to the 4,000 islands. It was a 3.5 hour journey in this vehicle that included about 35 adults, two infants, one toddler, bags and bags of food and, on top of the vehicle, a motorbike, more bags of stuff and chicken coops. I have photos that accurately capture the crammed nature of the ride. Because it's open-air, you get a lot of dust hitting your face, getting into your eyes, making looking out the back impossible (which is where we were seated). The porkchops were able to twist their bodies in a way that they could face the front but I didn't have that kind of room. Given my past experience in these vehicles, I was determined to get more space. So.....I stood on the back of the grate at the end of the truck with a couple of local men. It was soooo much better than sitting (although I did get hit with the sun). It was like riding a subway.....a long subway.
We arrived, found places to stay and got washed and had a lovely dinner. The next day, I hired a bike and took the island roads. The weather was perfect, a sunny day with a cool breeze. I felt like a kid whizzing past rice fields, guar and huts. The children are just the best...they scream out hello to you no matter how far away they are. And, if you prompt them, they will hold out their hands for a high-five as you ride past. Even the adults make an effort to say hello. It's quite endearing.
On my ride, I came past the porkchops, they were heading south, I was heading north. We chatted for a bit before going on our ways. I wanted to cycle to the northern point of the island (which is 24km in length and 8km wide). I did and then thought I was heading back to the starting line. But then this is me we are talking about. I am probably the first person in the history of the island to get LOST. I took a wrong turn and ended up intersecting the island and going north again. Imagine my horror when I saw the same structure I had just seen an hour ago! Too funny. So, at the end of the day, I rode for nearly six hours, got too much sun and saw a bit more of the island than I had planned.
The following day, myself and the boys headed further south -- a two-hour boat ride to the next island, Don Det. I woke up thinking I would take it easy but that never happens! After chilling out for a bit Joa and I took to bikes to explore the island we were staying on (Don Det) and the island you can get to via bridge, Don Khon. Of course, right after hiring our bikes it absolutely poured with rain. It stopped but it left the roads a very muddy mess. My sandals may look dorky (well, no maybe about it, they are dorky) but they stay on while walking through thick mud. Flip flops on the other hand...not so much. Poor Joa did his best to keep his flip flops on but halfway through our journey he was barefoot. We crossed to the other island and took in a lovely waterfall...a mass of gushing water everywhere. From there we cycled to a beach (well, kind of a beach). We were going to take a boat to see some dolphins but decided against it as the sun was setting and we had quite a journey back. We were absolutely covered in mud!
Back at the guesthouse, we got ourselves clean and then had a lovely dinner at the restaurant adjoining our guesthouse. The owner is a very lively woman. She is quite sharp and friendly....I was planning to move to another guesthouse but have decided to stay on because of the warm vibe from her and her family. The guesthouse we found is very basic. Just a wood bungalow, two hammocks, a bed and a mozzie net. No fan, no light inside the room. The electricity here runs from 7 until about 11. There are shared bathrooms (translation, you need to walk a bit to get to a squat toilet). In the evening, when I went to use the toilet there were two frogs hanging out! I have to tell myself I am camping, I am camping...it's really the only way to plough through.
It was quite nice hearing the river at night. It was a quiet night even though I didn't sleep well. But then, I haven't been sleeping well most nights. The beds are hard, the sheets are musty and sometimes bugs are included. But there you go.
This morning was a sad one. The boys headed off to Phomn Pehn. I am staying on for another day....I am telling myself it will be a day of rest...reading in the hammock, etc. But it's only 10 a.m. so that could all change!
I am sad to see the boys go, but I hope they will visit in NJ....you will all adore them!
Sorry no photos to attach, the connection is soooo slow and there are cobwebs on the computer. Seriously.
Totally not ready to do any sheetrocking tomorrow but 2 friends are coming over to hlep do it anyway. GULP!
written by  Groovespook on August 7, 2009 from Muang Khong, Laos

Kracheh (Kratie) - DIrect from the Source.
Kracheh, Cambodia
Maybe it was the ride into town. I finally got to ride on the back of a motorbike. It was me sitting on the back of the bike with my large backpack strapped on and my hands holding on (tightly) to the back seat while the driver kept my small pack between his legs and drove me about 2km into Kracheh, Cambodia. Or, maybe it was the room I chose: four walls, a window, a bathroom with a Western toilet and ants that keep to the floor, not the bed. Or, maybe it was the food: lots of fish (grilled not fried and inexpensive) and dishes with tofu (had a tofu mushroom burger with FRENCH FRIES for lunch for $3.50). Or maybe it was just the excitement of arriving into a new country. Maybe it was all of the above and more. Whatever the reason, I arrived in Kracheh this afternoon and am swept up in the energy of it all.
There is a food market down the road that sells all sorts of fruits and vegetables and meats and what looks like body parts at times. There is an assault of smells and noise and grit. It's a scrappy place with buildings that look slightly charred and side roads swimming in litter. Kids "play" by burning styrofoam or plastic. Despite this, I've fallen for Cambodia. The people have been very friendly, quick with a smile. Kids run up and say hello. And it's definitely a busy place compared to the sleepy 4,000 islands.
Opposite the market (figuratively and literally) is the Mekong River that is showcased along a lovely promenade with decorative lamps.
Just pottering on. Very lazily today.
written by  Groovespook on August 8, 2009 from Kracheh, Cambodia

PHOTOS - Direct from the Source.
Kracheh, Cambodia
Nuttter slaved over an ancient computer last night/this morning and has gifted us all with a few more visual snippets of her travels. Yay.
I know that she probably does not want me to post the "Pig-Mart" shot from the Umbrella mall in Cambodia but I am not the only meat lover amongst us! Vegetarians shield your eyes!
Video shoot in NYC today so my dried and damaged hands get a (sort of) break. ELECTRICITY IS FINISHED AND ON!!!!!!!
Groovespook.
written by  Groovespook on August 9, 2009 from Kracheh, Cambodia

Phnum Penh.
Phnum Penh, Cambodia
See details in the next post.
written by  Groovespook on August 14, 2009 from Phnum Penh, Cambodia

Batdambang - Direct from the Source!
Batdambang, Cambodia
And so I left Krache for Cambodia's capital, Phnom Penh. Surprisingly, the bus arrived ON TIME. Crazy. Cambodia has such a different personality to laid-back Laos. You can see it just in the driving. Instead of mainly motorbikes and tuk-tuks, Cambodia's streets are occupied with SUVs (Lexus and Toyotas are quite popular) that scream down the streets packed with people. The roads are pretty much all paved so there is no game of miss-the-pothole. But the two countries do share similarities. They are full of such kind, helpful people. Always with a smile.
I arrived in Phnom Penh not sure what to expect. Quite a few travelers I've met along the way have had a lot of negative things to say about it (it's polluted, the traffic is nuts, it's dirty, it's too busy, etc.). But Phnom Penh and I got along just fine. Yes, the traffic is nuts but in an entertaining way (for me anyway). Picture New York City traffic except instead of yellow cabs you have motorbikes, cars and SUVs. And no traffic lights! It's complete craziness but somehow it works.
On my first full day there I spent most of the day on the back of a motorbike (it's the best way to get to the sights). So, for $10, I had my own driver from 9:30 until about 5. I wish I could have put a camera to my helmet because words cannot do justice to the traffic. There are no rules, you just go and people let you in. It was quite funny to see Chi, my driver, make a left-hand turn into the lanes with on-coming traffic. He would just continue zipping along until he could glide into the right lane. And intersections are amazing to watch! Cars and motorbikes edge forward to either cross a highway or turn into it and they keep edging out until they are in the way of oncoming traffic. I will say it was a bit unnerving to see a van or car heading straight for us. But, as you can tell from this email, I survived. I also wore a helmet. There was a moment when I was a bit fearful but after passing a motorbike with a male driver with two kids and a woman, that moment passed. There's me hanging on tightly while women passengers sit sidesaddle. Too funny. It was like being a part of a Bourne Identity chase scene.
On a more serious note, I went to visit two places that shed light on Cambodia's past. The first stop, S-21 was a former school that the Khmer Rouge turned into a holding cell/torture chamber during the 1970s. It was truly a somber and sad thing to witness but one that I felt was necessary. It's always one thing to read about history but to stand right where it happened, to see what was done, drives the point home. From there I went to The Killing Fields. This is where people who didn't die in s-21 and other victims were brought daily to be killed. They were told to kneel before a shallow mass grave before a blunt instrument was used to knock them out and into the grave where there throats were then slit. Just awful. Again, a somber experience.
From Phnom Penh I took an "air-conditioned" bus to Batdambang (northward bound). You know it's hot when the locals start fanning themselves. It was five hours of stuffiness which led to me splurging on an air-conditioned room. Truth be told, I enjoy the rooms with just a fan. It works for me. But after that bus ride, AC was on the menu!
Batdambang is a compact little place. Lots of old French buildings along a peaceful riverfront. My cooking class was good fun (I didn't burn down the place). There were eight of us and we cooked three meals although we all agreed we wouldn't be able to remember it! Thankfully we got cookbooks at the end.
Today I spent a lovely couple of hours cycling outside of Batdambang. It was such a gorgeous ride, winding roads shaded by coconut tree leaves. Again, the kids make such excursions well worth it. They always yell out hello or wave or run after you.
Tomorrow I am heading to Siem Reap. I am taking a boat. Leaves at 7 a.m. and takes about 5-6 hours. Have heard it's a very scenic ride, but I've also heard they pack in passengers. And then there is the sun....although it's a covered boat, you can opt to sit on the roof (which many people say is the best for viewing and space). So, let the chips fall where they may!
It's sinking in that my trip is coming to an end. It seems like the days are quickly passing by. While I will miss it, I'm looking forward to seeing everyone.
Until next time!
An enormous 10 yard long container (a "skip") gets dropped in our driveway this weekend that will spell T H E E N D for the 45 black bags of concrete debris and old gnarly pieces of "de-nailed" wood (yes, I de-nail my debris) that has lined our porch for the last 3 weeks. It also marks the ACTUAL beginning of SHEETROCKING. Only 3 weeks behind schedule. I have taken the next week off work completely to really dig in and get some serious sanding and spackling done. I hope that by Wednesday I will have all the sheetrocking up and can start working on the floors whilst spackling like a...spackler?
written by  Groovespook on August 14, 2009 from Batdambang, Cambodia

Siem Reap - Direct from the Source.
Siem Reap, Cambodia
I left Batdambang by boat. It was a lovely, slow ride on a longtail covered boat to Siem Reap. While it took 7 hours (leaving at 7 a.m.) it didn't seem that long with the changing scenery. Got to see lots of locals who live right on the river.
I arrived in Siem Reap and with my dirty clothes and backpack, took a tuk-tuk to a five-star hotel. I asked the bellboy if I was the first backpack he's ever carried. He said yes. Too funny. Had a bath!!! then met Virag, the man behind these luxurious digs. Was so good to see him and to chat and catch up.
The following morning we tackled the beast that is Angkor. We went to the two "main" temples, Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom. Truly amazing feats of architecture.....every inch of stone seems to have an intricate carving (and I have the photos to prove it!).
The following day saw crazy me leave the hotel at 4:50 a.m. to catch sunrise at Angkor Wat. I waited with what felt like the papparazi and there was nothing to see! It was overcast so it was anticlimatic. The good part was being there in the early morning when not as many people are around. It was so peaceful and awe-inspiring to go past Angkor Thom in emptiness. What I thought would be a half day visit turned into an all-out marathon (I think because I didn't have Virag with me to be the voice of reason). I didn't leave the grounds until 6:30! The tuk-tuk driver (who slept during my temple visits) said I was a strong lady (I think he meant crazy). Unfortunately, I really overdid it and can't even think the word temple!
Today has been a day off of sorts. Virag and I visited two sites. One where you can see people making various stone and wood carvings and silk screen paintings. Then we went to a silkworm farm where we saw and learned about the whole silk making process. It was unbelievable. I ate a silkworm while Virag looked on in disgust (for those wondering, it tastes like corn).
Tomorrow I might go back to the temples (I bought a three-day pass) or I might not. It all depends on how I feel. My legs hurt just walking up regular stairs so that's not a good sign!
Nuttter
I decided against touring West Orange's 12 century Khmer temples and instead reluctantly demolished the wall separating Spare Um from the Office. The Plaster and Lathe walls are just over half an inch thick, which, on top of the 2"x4" stud walls - which really are 2"x4" (these days 2"x4" is really 1.5"x3.5") - makes that wall 5 inches thick. Add to that 2 pieces of Sheetrock and my brand new door frame (I splashed out on a new door (pending visitors note)) is too thin!!!!
I continue today and hope to have all doors in place and start some spackling on the ceilings.
written by  Groovespook on August 18, 2009 from Siem Reap, Cambodia

Angkor... What? PHOTOS - Direct from the Source.
Siem Reap, Cambodia
CHECK IT OUT!! Awesome pictures from our adventurous traveller...
Screws, not strewn haphazardly all over the place but in a "holding pattern" awaiting screwing.
The view from Spare Um into the office, late last night. Today I ache like a man that was putting up Sheetrock and framing doors for 11 hours the day before. Officially on a "go slow" today and now that I have some pictures from my Nuttter, I am celebrating by going to CHARLIE BROWNS! Big fat steak for Groovespook.
written by  Groovespook on August 19, 2009 from Siem Reap, Cambodia

Bangkok - The Beginning of the End.
Bangkok, Thailand
Dispatches from Bangkok confirm our Heroine is in Bangkok now, "One Night in Bangkok" echo's through the lobby of her guesthouse as she heads out into the searing humidity for a 12 hr temple sight-seeing day.
Nuttter's new swimming coach. It is amazing how well one swims with this behind you. (kidding!)
Refurbishing the door hinges. No time to strip the doors just yet but the doors will not go on with 5 layers of lead paint (cough cough) on these beautiful wrought iron hinges.
My reward after John Sanded the floors? hmmmmm. Thanks John.
Nice. Things are starting to come together.
Groovespook.
written by  Groovespook on August 23, 2009 from Bangkok, Thailand

Bangkok/Singapore - Direct from the Source.
"One night in Bangkok..." Well it turned into more than one. I ended up staying for about four nights. Two of the days were spent in a daze of exhaustion and heat. I took it easy...went to Siam Center, a huge mall that makes Short Hills look like a Kmart. They have a floor with cars. And not just any cars (think Lamborghini, Maserati, Lotus) And a whole level devoted to such an array of foods. Cauldrons of soups and curries and platters of spring rolls and clusters of bakeries.
I also spent some time enjoying the pool at my guesthouse (the only guesthouse to offer a pool!). But I also did some sightseeing in Bangkok and was particularly taken by Wat Pho and Wat Arun. Honestly, just when you think you've seen enough temples for a liftetime. Just when you think you are done. Bam! Wat Pho with it's intricate details and Wat Arun with it's granite like look, blows you away.
I also enjoyed some time at Luipini Park where the photo of the giant lizard was taken. Masses of locals gather in the evenings to take part in synchronized dancing to house music. It's mainly older people and quite a spectacle.
I also visited the Grand Palace, also stunning. And after a night of night marketing, my time in Thailand came to an end. Today, I arrived in Singapore, where my trip began. It's wonderful to see friends Mesh and Abby again. And surreal to be easing back into civilization (where I don't have to worry about the contents of a drink and eating raw veggies are safe).
And so the trip draws to an end. At the beginning of this journey I felt the time I had allotted was far too much. I wasn't sure how I would get through being away from Porl and my family (especially my nephew with his daily changings). And yet now, at the end of my trip, I feel it was just the right amount of time away. Just long enough for me to rediscover myself, to find Maria again (not just Maria of Maria and Porl). And time enough to know that I can still enjoy an adventure or two in life.
Mesh asked me tonight what the highlights of my trip were and it was simple: the people. The locals I encountered were so kind, so helpful, so easygoing. They always offered a smile even if they didn't understand what was being communicated. They would stop to give directions even if they couldn't speak a stitch of English. They would offer you a chair to sit inside their shop while torrential rain came down.
I was impressed and touched by the warmth I received. It truly was an experience. Of course, there was the scenery, the piercing green rice fields, the soaring mountains, the winding Mekong River.
Things I will not miss, however, include (in no particular order): leeches (okay, maybe in some kind of order), ants, mysterious bugs in showers, hard mattresses and even harder pillows, scratchy towels and punishing heat.
I could not have done this trip without several things: Music (a huge shout out to the shuffle feature, Kings of Leon, James and Home Video -- if you don't know Home Video, go to Pandora and check them out). A sense of humor (to laugh it off when the locals hack up loogies every 15 minutes during an 8-hour bus trip or stop every 5 minutes). And, of course, most importantly, this trip would not have happened if not for the gentle nudge and unwaivering support of Porl. For that I am grateful. Thank you.
And thank you for those who have kept up with the blog (my apologies if my entries were not as poetic as I would have liked). And thanks to those who emailed regularly and checked in.
I am sad to leave this easygoing vibe. This simple pace. But I am looking forward to seeing family and friends.
See you soon,
Too tired to move anything but the lambswool poly urathane applicator for the second coat on the bedroom floor. Back to my day job this week so not much is going on except making this mess of a house just slightly more livable for Nuttter's return. Hmmmm, should get some food in and move the beer out of the upstairs fridge SHARPISH!
written by  Groovespook on August 25, 2009 from Singapore, Singapore