cjones

Last day in KC
Kansas City, United States
Finally - this is really happening! Feel a lot lighter now. The last of the cords have been snipped - job, apartment, computer, car, phone... Some great times with friends over the weekend. Thanks you guys for all the hospitality! Flight leaves for Guatemala City tomorrow at 6 AM. Thanks very much to Alyssa for the ride to the airport!
written by  cjones on September 4, 2007 from Kansas City, United States
from the travel blog: so-journ

First stop in Centroamerica
Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
Arrived at the airport in Guatemala City then one hour later in Antigua, about 1 PM (Mountain time zone). It's a nice, colonial city with a volcano in the background and lots of language schools, but very touristic.
written by  cjones on September 5, 2007 from Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
from the travel blog: so-journ

Panajachel
Panajachel, Guatemala
On the road to Atitlan
At Lago de Atitlan. Nice weather now and planning to cross the lake today to San Pedro.
written by  cjones on September 7, 2007 from Panajachel, Guatemala
from the travel blog: so-journ

San Pedro
San Pedro La Laguna, Guatemala
The view from the roof of the hotel
Arrived in San Pedro yesterday and signed up for Spanish classes next week. Has the reputation of being the party town on the lake, but so far except for the firecracker at 5 AM this morning (tomorrow's the national election), it seems muy tranquilo, cheap, friendly and a good place to study and explore around the lake.
written by  cjones on September 8, 2007 from San Pedro La Laguna, Guatemala

Spanish classes
San Pedro La Laguna, Guatemala
Con mi maestra, Vila
Taking classes and learning about the current situation and history of this place.
If anyone chooses to do God's will, he will find out whether my teaching comes from God or whether I speak on my own.
John 7:17
written by  cjones on September 11, 2007 from San Pedro La Laguna, Guatemala

Sustainable development projects at Lago de Atitlan
San Pedro La Laguna, Guatemala
The "factory" at the Womens Textile Association in San Juan
Pedro giving beta on coffee growing at the coop in San Juan
In the past few days, I visited a couple of sustainable development projects in San_Juan_La_Laguna - a small town about a half hour's walk from San Pedro. The first was a textile and handicraft association called the Asociacion de Mujeres Tejedoras Con Tinte Natural, which uses natural dyes from local plants, extracted by boiling the threads (think they're cotton) in water. The second was a coffee cooperative called La Voz Que Clama en el Desierto (Voice That Cries in the Wilderness). The coop abides by organic, shade grown and fair trade standards, the latter meaning they pay the workers a decent wage. Read in the local paper this week that Guatemala supplies more coffee to Starbucks than any other country and since most of the chain's coffee does not meet those standards, there´s a need for more such coops.
Also met an architect and juggler from Ireland who is working as a volunteer on water treatment facilities for towns by the lake. Currently, most of the water is untreated and that combined with fuel discharge by boats has killed most of the fish. In the local restaurants, the fish is the highest priced entree.
This morning before class, I visited the market at Santiago_de_Atitlan, about 40 minutes away by boat.
On the boat to Santiago de Atitlan
Market at Santiago de Atitlan
View of the lake from Santiago de Atitlan
written by  cjones on September 14, 2007 from San Pedro La Laguna, Guatemala

Training for field work
San Lucas Sacatepequez, Guatemala
David and Lisa in the kitchen
I've been here at the headquarters of FUNCEDESCRI (Fundacion Centro de Servicios Cristianos) for 3 days now, working on the farm at the center, and learning a lot about the organization, its projects, conditions in the zones where it works, and more about the obstacles and challenges in sustainable development in Guatemala. Working with 2 other volunteers - _David_, a recent college grad from the US and Lisa, a student from Germany, living and cooking together in a House on the grounds of the center.
Planting onions
Getting my hands very dirty with all steps of preparing the organic fertilizer, from shoveling the fresh stuff from cow and kitchen, to removing earthworms to save for the next batch. Also toured the lab where products such as soaps, shampoos and essential oils are prepared from ingredients produced on the farms and packaged for sale at stores in Antigua and Guatemala City. Learned to identify crops and medicinal plants grown in gardens and harvested from the forest.
Grounds of the FUNCEDESCRI training center
In the storeroom at the lab
written by  cjones on September 19, 2007 from San Lucas Sacatepequez, Guatemala

Back to Antigua
Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
Street scene in Antigua
Resting up and making plans for the rest of the trip this weekend. Also need to shop for some more suitable clothes for working on the farm. Leaving for Campur on Monday, where the community does not have electricity so I'll be out of contact by internet until next weekend.
Yesterday I discussed needs of the rural communities and my potential role with _Alexandra_ at FUNCEDESCRI. The focus of the organization is currently on training in these communities, because the public education and preexisting information resources are grossly inadequate to prepare the people to improve their lives and determine their future.
Thinking that it's not so much a question of what I can do as an individual, but a question of which side I'm on - the side of the poor or the side of the rich. In truth, the side of the rich does not benefit that of the poor.
written by  cjones on September 22, 2007 from Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala

Decompressing in Coban
Coban, Guatemala
Amaranto after harvesting and drying
Amaranto ready for harvest
Heading to town on market day
Wow! I feel like I've just reentered the modern world after spending the week in Campur, a couple of hours bus ride northeast of here. Learned a lot this week about the conditions, life and work in this very poor region of Guatemala. Slept in a bunk at the FUNCEDESCRI center, but each day a different family provided meals in their house. The people were very gracious and although most speak the Mayan dialect Q'eqchi', I was escorted by one of FUNCEDESCRI's agroecology promoters - Mario - who translated for me between Q'eqchi' and Spanish. Apparently, there have been few visitors there from outside of the country. Got a lot of stares and smiles (and probably jokes), especially from the kids who were shy but very interested in the strange-looking alien. All were very friendly and gracious though, and very generous with what little they have.
This is truly a different world - and one that we can learn much from, although the recent war, displacement, and appropriation and exploitation of the land have caused the loss or subversion of much of the culture and traditional knowledge (including knowledge about agriculture and medicine). Traditionally, the lifestyle has been more beneficial to the earth and while while ours values competition and individualism, theirs is more about sharing with the whole community.
Constructing a "Tipo-A"
Banana leaves for an umbrella
Setting erosion barriers of sugar cane on a hillside
There is much at risk here due to lack of education. The public schools don't provide the type or quality of education to allow people to improve their lives in their communities. Folks don't know much about their recent history when they vote and elect leaders connected with the genocide during the civil war. It was distressing to learn that the campesinos have accepted government payments in exchange for planting pine trees in their fields (to be used for paper by a Spanish timber company), which in a few years will destroy their capacity to produce crops for food and income. Many have to spend part of the year away from their families working in the city or in plantations on the coast. There are no clear titles to the land - it is believed to be owned by a cooperative but apparently there are no official documents recording this.
The house of one of the host families
Preparing the chicken soup
FUNCEDESCRI is working to improve the health of the people in the region by (re)introducing crops such as amaranto (amaranth), which is much more rich in vitamins than corn. It is attempting to preserve the natural environment and fertility of the soil by promoting organic fertilizers and pest control treatments. It works to provide additional income for the people by developing and marketing products - such as marmalades, essential oils and soaps - sold in the cities, thus redistributing a little of the wealth from the relatively rich to the dirt poor. The pay received for exported crops such as coffee and cardomon (shipped to Saudi Arabia) is not enough to raise the standard of living above the poverty line.
Inspecting a new stove at the center in Campur
FUNCEDESCRI staff and community promoters at lunch
Have several thoughts about how I could help with the work of this organization, but it could take some time to process all these experiences and put together a proposal.
Every valley shall be raised up, every mountain and hill made low;
the rough ground shall become level, the rugged places a plain.
And the glory of the Lord will be revealed, and all mankind together will see it.
For the mouth of the Lord has spoken.
Isaiah 40:4 & 5
written by  cjones on September 29, 2007 from Coban, Guatemala

FUNCEDESCRI field site in Campur
Campur, Guatemala
Just a blog stub to show my location on the map.
written by  cjones on September 24, 2007 from Campur, Guatemala

El Estor
El Estor, Guatemala
Spent about 8 hours today in an old bus with bad suspension on a bad dirt and gravel road, traveling from Coban to El Estor on Lago Izabal, the largest lake in Guatemala. Too much bouncing around to do much other than admire the scenery. Couldn't really converse with the other passengers since they seemed to speak mostly Q'eqchi'.
written by  cjones on October 1, 2007 from El Estor, Guatemala

Road to ruins
Copan, Honduras
With Hana & Dylan at Denny's Beach
Met new friends from Australia day before yesterday near Mariscos on Lago Izabal, then went for a swim and stayed at the lake one night at a place called Denny's Beach.
Ball court at Copan ruins
Yesterday, we rode buses to the border of Honduras, arriving at dusk then today we explored the Mayan ruins (from around 500 to 800 AD) that are the main tourist attraction of Copan. The town here is beautiful, caters to tourists but has a lot of charm. Judging from the look of the houses and streets, conditions in here in Honduras seem noticeably less poor than across the border in Guatemala, but this could be just around Copan.
Descending the temple
Closeup of stone carvings
written by  cjones on October 4, 2007 from Copan, Honduras

El Carib
Tela, Honduras
Road to the cabañas and beach
Yesterday, explored around and stayed overnight in the Afro-Caribbean Garifuna village Triunfo de la Cruz, a short distance along the coast from where I am now in Tela. Very chill with practically no tourists. Checked out the local live music at a disco on the beach and this morning I visited the botanical garden in Lancetilla reputed to be the finest in Latin America. The grounds were impressive and nice to walk around, but I'd hoped to find more information on tropical forest conservation and agriculture. Rode much of the way to Tela in the back of a pickup in pouring rain. Drying out now.
written by  cjones on October 7, 2007 from Tela, Honduras

Tegucigalpa
Tegucigalpa, Honduras
Iglesia Los Dolores in Tegucigalpa
In the capital city of Tegucigalpa, doing some planning for the rest of the trip and stopped in a bookstore this morning. Of course most of it's in Spanish but found a lot of good material on subjects I'm trying to learn more about such as economic, social and ecological factors affecting the situation here in Central America. Strange that the historic downtown area has a nice park and baroque cathedral but mostly US or similar fast-food chains for restaurants.
written by  cjones on October 9, 2007 from Tegucigalpa, Honduras

End of the long bus ride
Panama, Panama
Arrived in Panama City yesterday after 3 days on long-distance buses from Tegucigalpa. Very heavy rains and flooding in Costa Rica, which delayed the bus 6 hours because part of the Pan-american highway collapsed. Giant waves on rivers we crossed over. This is the same highway that passes through KC as I-35.
Relaxing here at a hostel and looking into options for transportation into Colombia. The city here is very modern and not too unlike the US, but especially diverse being located between South America and the rest of Central America and the only Central American capital on the Pacific coast, so there's some Asian influence.
Read in the paper here that the "economy" of Panama grew 7.5% in the past year, but 64% of the population is in poperty with a third in extreme poverty, and the poverty has not decreased. Also read that at least by one account the richest man in the world now is from Mexico, another country where there is much poverty. Something's wrong with this picture! Whose really benefitting from the economic growth?
written by  cjones on October 14, 2007 from Panama, Panama

Setting sail
Portobelo, Panama
Leaving on a chartered yacht (very reasonable) for the San Blas islands and Colombia tomorrow!
written by  cjones on October 17, 2007 from Portobelo, Panama

On solid ground in Colombia
Cartagena, Colombia
Harbor at Portobelo
Storm clouds over the sea
What luck to have a guitar onboard!
One of the islands inhabited by the Kuna
The Melody has landed! Arrived yesterday in Cartagena after 5 days and 4 nights on the water with 9 other backpackers from the US, Canada and Sweden. It was a fun trip aside from getting seasick on the 4th day.
Really curious about seeing Colombia firsthand, since I've heard so many conflicting things about the country. Appears that all those things could be true, just that different people see different sides. Today I glanced through a book on the subject called Las Dos Colombias (another book apparently not available in English or probably in the States). There are a lot of police and military roaming the streets, but the ones I've seen so far seem no better or worse than those in the US - most seem like decent people and I'm sure they make the streets safer for gringos like me.
Met a Colombian lady who believes that most people here are not truly patriotic but have a regional mentality and are not very concerned about what is happening in another part of the country. The human rights organizations and the UN all say that the level of violence against the poor and indigenous people in the rural areas is the highest in Latin America at this time - akin to the violence in Guatemala in the 80s and most of it perpetrated by paramilitaries who have ties to the military and police. Colombia is also known to have the highest internal displacement (largely due to the violence) in the world except for Darfur - estimates are 2 to 4 million people over the past 20 years.
Streets of Cartagena
Back to my immediate location: Cartagena is a popular tourist destination for both backpackers and upscale tourists. The historic center is a beautiful place to walk around with colonial architecture and narrow cobblestone streets lined by 2-story buildings with balconies overflowing with tropical flowers. Such contrasts in this country!
Walls around the city
Historic center of Cartagena
written by  cjones on October 23, 2007 from Cartagena, Colombia

Cali
Cali, Colombia
Torrential rains in Cartagena yesterday morning. Rivers of water about a foot deep flowed through the narrow streets and about an inch of water washed in from the streets onto the floor of the restaurant where I had breakfast. My flight from Cartagena to Cali was delayed by more than 5 hours because of the rain.
National elections are Sunday and as in Guatemala it's very dangerous to be a political candidate here. Candidates and their families are often targeted for assassinations or kidnappings. Read in the paper a couple of days ago that as of then there had been 29 assasinations, 9 kidnappings and 27 other attacks. Other differences I've heard about with elections here are that bars and liquor stores are closed the whole weekend of the elections and buses and many other businesses don't operate on election day. Wonder if that makes it difficult for some to travel to the polling place.
written by  cjones on October 26, 2007 from Cali, Colombia

Emilio's farm
Cali, Colombia
The fish pond
Experimental tanks & Emilio's new breed "jaguar fish"
Today I met a friend of my friend Naresuan who lives here in Cali, and is a consultant for the World Wildlife Fund working on conservation, sustainable development and land use planning in the Putumayo department to the southeast. This was completely unplanned before yesterday and an incredible opportunity for me to learn more about Colombia and many of the things I'm most interested in learning about on this journey!
In addition to his consulting work, Emilio has a farm about a hour's drive from Cali, near Dagua, where he grows coffee as well as many experimental crops for income including flowers, ornamental plants, giant bamboo, tropical hardwoods such as mahogany, butterflies and aquarium fish. In addition he grows a variety of food for his family and is planning to open an ecotourism center. At breakfast, I changed my plans to leave Cali today and instead rode with him to the farm where he gave me a tour for a few hours. Enjoyed a lot of good conversation (in English) and views of beautiful countryside and interesting roadside market activity.
Tree fern
written by  cjones on October 27, 2007 from Cali, Colombia

Pasto
Pasto, Colombia
Now in Pasto in southern Colombia, after spending most of the last 4 days with Emilio - Sunday at an amazing private nature reserve called Nirvana run by the family of a friend of his, then the last 2 days traveling with him from Cali. He had to go to work in the forest just east of here (with indigenous communities in the Putumayo) and offered a ride in his car. Many interesting sights along the way, including many army or police checkpoints, especially between Cali and Popayan, which is in an area of much guerrilla activity in recent years. We were stopped a couple of times and searched once. Drove through some very diverse and beautiful terrain. Pasto seems like a nice town but I'm not going to have much time to look around since I need to be in Quito tomorrow. It's much cooler here in the mountains and has been raining much of the time.
written by  cjones on October 30, 2007 from Pasto, Colombia

Spirit of sustainability
Quito, Ecuador
On the bus to Quito, I finished a book called Tropical Forests and the Human Spirit, which describes the contemporary trend in forest conservation toward local community management of forest resources. The book refers to the concept in economics called the "tragedy of the commons" which maintains that given the freedom to do so, individuals will pursue their self interest in exploiting common resources, which ultimately leads to their destruction. The unanswered question in the book is how the "tragedy of the commons" can be averted.
Traditionally, forest peoples have often sustainably managed their lands and resources when their societies have been united by common spiritual beliefs and prohibitions against destructive practices. But what is to prevent self-interested exploitation when communities have recently settled their lands, communities are fragmented and have lost a cohesive value system, or modern values have encroached upon and replaced traditional ones? Isn't an inner transformation necessary for a truly sustainable and just way of life?
Unfortunately, Christianity has developed a bad image for itself in the eyes of many compassionate advocates for conservation and social justice. I think part of the image problem could be justified given the actions of some missionaries in the past, but the rest could be attempts by the System, what the Bible calls "the world," to discredit a way of life that threatens the selfish ambition and materialism it promotes. However, taken to heart I know of no better guide to a spirit of sustainable development that can heal and save commmunities and the natural world. I think the church needs conservation and conservation needs the church.
Speak up for those who cannot speak for themselves,
for the rights of all who are destitute.
Speak up and judge fairly;
defend the rights of the poor and needy.
Proverbs 31:8 & 9
That everyone may eat and drink, and find satisfaction in all his toil - this is the gift of God.
Ecclesiastes 3:13
written by  cjones on November 1, 2007 from Quito, Ecuador

Rio Muchacho
Canoa, Ecuador
Arrived yesterday at the Rio Muchacho organic farm - about 30 minutes drive inland from Canoa.
Thursday, I met with the staff of Yanapuma at their office in Quito to discuss a sustainable development internship the first 3 months of next year and also to share in the traditional celebration of Dia de los Muertos by preparing then drinking a purple juice called "colada morada" along with bread in the shape of dolls called "guaguas de pan." Afterwards, we went for dinner, live jazz and good conversation at a nearby restaurant.
Friday and yesterday I traveled with the other students from Quito to the farm where we'll be taking an organic agriculture course for 4 weeks. Today we had a short introductory class, then the rest of the day off at the beach in Canoa, where there's internet access. Strange that we're at the equator at sea level and the temperature is still cool.
written by  cjones on November 4, 2007 from Canoa, Ecuador

Challenge to science
Bahia de Caraquez, Ecuador
Last week I checked out a book from the library at Rio Muchacho titled "Life is a Miracle: An Essay Against Modern Superstition," written by Wendell Berry in 2000. This book has a lot of significance for me, as it challenges not only many commonly accepted beliefs of our society in general, but especially those advocated and taught in the universities - even more specifically within the field of population biology, which was my area of concentration in college. It is essentially a review and critique of ideas presented in another book called "Consilience" by E.O. Wilson. Although I haven't read this book, Wilson wrote the textbooks for 2 of my courses in college and from other articles I've read I think he well represents the perspectives of my biology professors.
I had the good fortune to hear Wendell Berry speak about a year ago at the Prairefest conference on sustainability organized by the Land Institute in Salina, Kansas. This is the first book I've read by him but I doubt it will be the last. There's so much depth in his writing that for me it has to be taken in small doses and reread several times. I could probably write an entire book myself on thoughts that have been unleashed by reading this review of another book.
WB refers to the dominant modern wordview as "science-technology-and-industry" and he opposes the obsession with or being first or original in human endeavors, the preference for novelty vs. timeless truths, as well as the view that knowledge is always good and that accumulation of knowledge and communication of scientific or literary information should be unrestricted. When it comes to scientific knowledge, certain technologies such as nuclear engineering, agricultural biotech and cloning may be better left unexplored. Knowledge and "solutions" do not necessarily result in a net gain to the world after considering the destruction and new unsolved problems created by them. In literature and the arts (including popular media) the artist or author as a member of society and party to personal relationships bears responsibility for betrayal of confidence and for influencing other members of society. In regard to conservation, WB sees more potential in people who have come to know and love a place and its individual living inhabitants, and in those inspired by God's love for creation, than in a scientific reduction to abstract concepts such as species, ecosystems and biodiversity to be managed with technology as if parts of a machine.
On the farm, we get up before 6 AM to do chores before breakfast, then have classroom instruction and practice in the field both morning and afternoon. On many nights after dinner, we've watched videos on food, agriculture, conservation and development-related topics. On other nights we learned to make products from food grown on the farm like chocolate, coffee, cheese and marmalades. Also had Spanish classes for a couple of hours a day this past week. Saw a toucan in the wild for the first time and up close - feeding on a fruit of a papaya tree.
The main house at Rio Muchacho
La huerta (vegetable garden)
written by  cjones on November 17, 2007 from Bahia de Caraquez, Ecuador

The difference
Canoa, Ecuador
The beach at Canoa
Last night here in Canoa, someone asked me if I thought I could "make a difference" through this journey and the work I want to do. Don't think I answered the question very directly at the time, but now that I've thought about it, I really don't know if I can make a difference. Through the grace of God, I may be able do something helpful, but the important question is which side am I on.
Dario demonstrating the effects of monoculture
This week at Rio Muchacho we learned about the development and agricultural practices around the farm, and what it is doing to promote more sustainable practices. Dario, who owns the farm along with his wife Nicola, commented that in general the campesinos there are resistant to change and do not plan for their future - they mostly look ahead just to their next meal and the next weekend at the cantina. When he invited his neighbors to the farm to see and explain what they were doing after 3 years of hard work converting to organic production, they responded with something to the effect of "That's nice," then "Ciao". It was then that they knew that although it could take a generation, they needed to reach the children in order to have an effect. Since it was not possible for political reasons to change the teaching in the local public school, they decided to open their own "Escuela Ambiental" where they provide government-approved elementary school teaching for kids at mostly their expense (indirectly supported by volunteers and students like me), emphasizing an appreciation for nature and the place where they live. In constrast, the government textbooks used in public schools appear to be written for an affluent (northern?) audience. For example, in the alphabet workbooks, images associated with the letters G, S, and R are for giraffe, smog, and rifle (showing a toddler holding the gun!).
Dario also mentioned both disturbing and encouraging developments in the area. Some of the bad news is that much of the land near his farm is owned by a wealthy absentee landowner who lives in the big city Guayaquil. This owner is planning to clearcut much of this land (rare and very biodiverse transitional wet-dry forest) to plant corn, which is likely to be of a transgenic variety, which will be sold as food for factory-raised chickens. To enlist the support of local ranchers to plant the corn, they will be allowed to plant grass alongside it to feed their cattle.
Dario also referred to a form of indentured servitude imposed by the chemical and seed companies whereby campesinos are sold chemicals and seed on credit in exchange for part of their crop. However, at harvest time, the lenders complain about the quality of the crop and are willing to pay only a fraction of what they originally promised. They then tell the farmers not to worry because they can make up the debt with next year's crop so they get hooked into a vicious cycle of greater and greater debt. In this area (as in many others), there are monopolies of buyers for the locally grown crops, e.g. corn and passion fruit, contributing to further economic slavery.
Some of the good news is that when a few parents resisted the nominal fee of $2/month to send their kids to the school (though this is much less than the cost of public schools), they instituted an innovative strategy of giving each family 100 chicks at the start of the school year, with the requirement that they return 50 after they are grown. The other requirement is that the chickens be raised organically so the parents needed to learn to grow organic corn. This appears to be helping the parents and the school financially and with nutritious food, along with keeping them committed to keeping their kids in the school. In addition, the kids are challenging many of the environmentally destructive practices of their parents, which creates friction in some of the families but could possibly lead to some improvements. In some cases, families have started growing their own organic gardens as a result of what their kids have learned in the school.
This week we had the privilege of 2 days of classes taught by one of the founders of the seed guardians network of Ecuador. Among many other things, we learned that the vast majority of native seed varieties are disappearing, being patented(!), or being held in seed banks accessible only to governments and big corporations. The commonly grown varieties are much less nutritious and more vulnerable to pests, which are of course treated with toxic chemicals. This is a major threat to our food supply, nutrition and freedom from economic control by the agribusiness powers that be.
At the escuela ambiental
In the garden
written by  cjones on November 25, 2007 from Canoa, Ecuador

Back to the city
Quito, Ecuador
Kids at Rio Muchacho
Returned from the Rio Muchacho farm to Quito by the night bus, then yesterday the class visited a commercial organic farm nearby called Chaupi Molino. Learned a lot this past month, but it was a challenge to go without much free time, privacy or personal space with all of the group activities and close quarters during the course. I also don't care much for being herded around in a group, which is the way it felt some of the time. Now I'm taking some time to reflect on what I learned, ask the Lord for guidance and assess what to do next.
"Gringolandia" in Quito
After the month at the farm, I'm taking more notice of the contrasts between the countryside and the city. Where I've been staying in Quito, I see similar advertising and consumption as in other big cities, and people seem more into themselves and how they look. Can't help but notice the vast difference between the warmth of the culture that first attracted me to Latin America and the rampant materialism that seems to have infected much of life in the big cities as it has in the US. Not much new under the sun. I think about how we could change any of this. Seems like we've had the same struggles more or less from the beginning of human society, only now the destruction of the planet is on a larger scale.
I remember a comment from one of the teachers at the course about how the indigenous people called the Spanish invaders the "children of the wind." When people in the rural areas are separated from their roots - their communities and their land - either willingly by being enticed false promises of the media and consumer culture, or unwillingly through violence or economic oppression, it seems that they lose much of their identity and integrity, and collectively we lose an example and hope of an alternative and better way of living together.
On horseback to a swimming hole
Great live andina music at the Guapulo Arte
written by  cjones on November 30, 2007 from Quito, Ecuador

Cuenca
Cuenca, Ecuador
Parque Calderon in Cuenca
Cathedral steps
Rooftops around the park
Heading south to Peru, with a stopover for a day in Cuenca. Not much time to explore the surrounding area, but enjoying the beautiful architecture and other sights around town. Learned from one of the locals at a gear shop that this is thought to be the rockclimbing center of Ecuador - lots of good cragging nearby - so I'll have to return to give that a try.
Questions: Why are the movies in long-distance buses always the ones, usually from the US, that are nonstop violence? In the restaurant where the bus stopped for lunch, why are posters of Jesus posted next to those of seductive women advertising for beer? Why is the bullfighting event in Quito named "Jesus del Gran Poder" (Jesus of the Great Power)?
written by  cjones on December 3, 2007 from Cuenca, Ecuador

Crossing into Peru
Piura, Peru
Arrived here in Piura after another night bus ride from Loja, where I stayed for a day and a half. As I was leaving the bus station in a taxi with 2 others from the bus around 7 AM, we noticed 2 guys running past, then several seconds later we could see that a girl from the bus had been robbed of her carry-on bag - she was running after the guys and crying out about her passport. In the chaos of people and traffic it was impossible to pursue the thieves.
Taking a flight later this morning to Lima to meet with the folks with the Peruvian branch of the international Christian conservation organization A Rocha (Portuguese for "The Rock"). Of all the Latin American countries, the organization currently has branches only in Peru and Brazil.
written by  cjones on December 6, 2007 from Piura, Peru

A Rocha Peru
Lima, Peru
Seagulls at La Punta in Lima
Arrived at the airport in Lima yesterday a little exhausted having not slept much on the bus the night before, but met by very helpful members of A Rocha Peru. We had lunch together then Oscar (leader of the A Rocha team in Peru) and his wife Marlene invited me to stay at their house and get some rest. Today I woke up before dawn and went with Oscar to take a survey of birds in the city park behind their house. He has lived in the same house with his family for 25 years and tracking the birds for much of that time. After breakfast, I was accompanied by two other A Rocha members to a part of town by the ocean called La Punta, where there are an amazing number of shorebirds as well as other sealife.
In the office of A Rocha Peru
written by  cjones on December 7, 2007 from Lima, Peru

The vow
Tarapoto, Peru
I can see now that God has unexpectedly led me to this place at the right time to be baptized in a river in the Amazon basin of Peru! At the airport yesterday I was met by Jose, a pastor here and good friend of Alex, the pastor I'll be working with on behalf of A Rocha. Jose just happens to speak good English (rare among pastors here), and shortly after arriving I learned about the baptism Jose would be performing today. We had much time to talk over the course of about 24 hours, including staying up until around 3 AM this morning discussing my life, faith and decision to pledge my commitment to God through the symbol of the baptism ceremony.
Afterwards, I learned that I just happened to arrive here for 3 days at the time of the first baptism he would perform in the river here in over 2 years!
Rooftops of Tarapoto
Rio Cumbaza
The moment has come!
With pastor Jose
Feeling good!
Canto (edge) del Rio Cumbaza -> Cancum
Jose was greatly inspired by a visit from A Rocha a couple of weeks ago, and has plans to enlist the support of the youth here to generate greater environmental awareness and activism. In the sermon this morning, Alex preached at length about biblical injunctions to care for all creation.
The God who made the world and everything in it is the Lord of heaven and Earth and does not live in temples built by hands.
Acts 17:24
written by  cjones on December 9, 2007 from Tarapoto, Peru

Rio Abiseo
Juanjui, Peru
Kids in the bote
Just returned from two days in the Parque Nacional del Rio Abiseo on the edge of the Peruvian Amazon. Traveled by motorized boat upstream on three different rivers (there are no roads) for about 3 and a half hours with a group of sixth grade kids who were chosen for a new environmental educational program of the park.
I'm here in Juanjui on a project with A Rocha Peru to develop relationships with park staff and to assess needs and opportunities for educating people living around the park about environmental consequences of harmful activities and other threats (e.g. mining concessions) to the park. In addition, A Rocha wants to appeal to Christians to care for the nature around us as a demonstration of our love for God's work and obedience to His will.
In the Rio Abiseo park, I did a lot of hiking with the kids on a trail to identify trees, and on others to a cave, a slot canyon to swim, and a waterfall. From talking with the park wardens, I learned about the risks to the forest and the economic development needs and plans of the park, e.g. for ecotourism. At the park I was accompanied and helped with translation by Isabel, a friend of Alex's from Switzerland but living with her husband Andres in Juanjui.
Before this on Monday, Jose, Angela, Alex and I were given a tour of the sights around Tarapoto by a airport security officer Jose met when he picked me up at the airport on Saturday.
Then early Tuesday morning, I traveled with Alex and his mother (who had just arrived from Lima) about 3 hours from Tarapoto to Juanjui. Alex and I met with the staff at INRENA, the natural resources department of Peru, and made plans for the Rio Abiseo trip. Later that afternoon, a friend of Alex's named Roldan showed me around his farm where he grows cacao, many kinds of tropical fruit trees, trees for wood and medicinal plants. When driving his motorbike to the farm, Alex crashed on a rough dirt road and suffered a deep puncture wound. He's been walking with a limp but is better now.
I've been staying at Alex and his wife Nataly's house, which is close to the center of Juanjui behind one of the pharmacies his wife manages.
River view
At the entrance to the "French cave"
written by  cjones on December 14, 2007 from Juanjui, Peru

Leaving the hot zone
Tarapoto, Peru
On the way back to KC now. Arrived once more in Tarapoto after over a week in Juanjui - getting to know the place and people there, learning about threats to the nature in and around the Rio Abiseo nacional park. Worked with Alex on plans for countering these, and last night I met with a group of young people at Alex's church to talk about my trip and the intention behind it to serve God by caring for nature and the poor. Showed photos from the trip of sustainable development projects that do both.
It was a very hot and bumpy, swerving ride to Tarapoto in a packed car on a rough dirt road for over 3 hours but with beautiful views of the Rio Huallaga much of the way. In this part of Peru, there are few cars - mostly motorcycles and mototaxis, like motortricycles. Cars are used mostly as long distance taxis. In Juanjui, as in Campur in Guatemala, people often walk long distances on paths between their houses and fields (chacras). There are no roads in the Rio Abiseo park - access is by river on the east side and by trail on the west.
Many thanks to Alex and Nataly for the accommodations at their house and for many delicious "typical" meals! Alex also helped me out with a loan since I wasn't able to reload my AAA debit card without a long delay and found out that banks in Peru require a PIN for cash advances from a credit card; some accept only VISA. International transfers from a bank in the US take 3 business days.
After arriving in Juanjui today around noon, I met with pastor Jose and his family for lunch. Great to see them again. Meeting them and others tonight to talk more about ideas for environmental education and action next year.
written by  cjones on December 20, 2007 from Tarapoto, Peru

Sharing the experience
Lima, Peru
In Lima, meeting again with folks from A Rocha Peru before my flight back to the States at midnight. Staying at the house of Amparo, an A Rocha member and biologist working in environmental education with INRENA, the Peruvian natural resources department.
written by  cjones on December 22, 2007 from Lima, Peru

Two kinds
Quito, Ecuador
After 2 weeks in KC for the holidays, visiting friends, my daughter and stepdaughter, and managing the considerable logistics of being out of the country for so long (especially with owning a business), I'm now back in South America!
Arrived at the airport in Quito late last night, then at the hotel early this morning after waiting in line 2 hours for immigration after getting off the plane. Brought more stuff this time including a travel guitar, climbing shoes and harness, a laptop (which it looks like I'll need for the volunteer work here) and more books. So much more that my backpack was over the weight limit and had to quickly shed a few pounds.
On the plane and during the 6-hour wait at the airport in Houston, I continued reading a book on Latin American history called "Born in Blood and Fire." The period of history I read about was the 19th century from the independence wars through the end of (officially sanctioned) slavery and the rise of economic and cultural liberalism. The description in the book of the transformation of the old caste system, based primarily on race, into a new class system, based primarily on wealth and image, seems to echo what I see now in the 21st century. The author refers to the two classes as the common people and the "decent" people, roughly corresponding I think to the postcolonial version of the poor and disadvantaged on the one hand and the rich or privileged on the other. The latter had abandoned the religious conservatism of the Iberian "Peninsulars" (Spanish and Portuguese) and sought to imitate the liberal mores and styles of the English and French. And of course this class looked down upon and exploited the common folk.
This reminds me of another distinction I read about in the book by Wendell Berry, referring to a book by Wallace Stegner on the American West - that between "boomers" and "stickers." Boomers are the exploiters who seek to make it rich and get theirs regardless of what happens to everyone else, and stickers are those who remain faithful - to their roots, principles and traditions.
Is it too simplistic to categorize people in such a binary way? I think of the dichotomies in the Bible. A person cannot serve two masters - one serves either God or Mammon (money). In Proverbs, the fool follows a path of callous self interest that leads to death and a person who serves God follows a path of love and forgiveness that leads to life.
written by  cjones on January 7, 2008 from Quito, Ecuador

Too much technology?
Now I've been in Quito for a week, starting the work at the Yanapuma Foundation. Currently, Yanapuma is focusing their work on two indigenous communities - the Bua in the rainforest to the west and La Chimba in the mountains to the northeast. I'm still getting familiar with the needs and opportunities in both places, and plan to be working in sustainable agriculture but not sure yet about exactly what I'll be doing and in which place.
The last two days have been testing my patience. Mostly because yesterday the hard disk in the laptop I bought just 2 weeks ago wouldn't boot. It seems now that it may have become infected with a boot sector virus, but also the recovery disk I had created a couple of weeks ago just after I bought the computer didn't recover. Finally found a technician today who recovered the few data files I hadn't backed up and I think can restore the OS tomorrow. Didn't have these problems when I didn't carry a computer. Another drawback is that outside of the city, it's easy to find internet cafes but hard to find WiFi locations.
written by  cjones on January 15, 2008 from Quito, Ecuador

Seed Guardians
Tumbaco, Ecuador
Under the sacred (1800 year old) tree
Rojelio in the vivero
Second day of the workshop in Tumbaco
Just completed a workshop this weekend in Tumbaco, about an hour east of Quito, on preserving seeds and propagating plants of the Andean forest. Most of the Andean region has been heavily deforested, and this knowledge is essential to restoring a semblance of the natural forest. The workshop was conducted by a member of the national Red de Guardianes de Semillas (network of seed guardians). I had met Javier, another member, at the course at Rio Muchacho, where he taught 2 days of classes. Last Thursday, I'd attended one day of a course by the network on "ecological design," also in Tumbaco.
Appears now that the computer problem (or at least one problem) was a loose connector for the disk drive that prevented booting but not reading the disk. Reinstalled the OS but after inserting a shim to hold the disk in place it seems to be working fine now.
written by  cjones on January 20, 2008 from Tumbaco, Ecuador

Búa
Santo Domingo de los Colorados, Ecuador
The closest town to the Búa community of the Tsa'chila people where I stayed for 3 days. Recently renamed to Santo_Domingo_de_los_Tsa'chilas.
written by  cjones on January 21, 2008 from Santo Domingo de los Colorados, Ecuador

Yanapuma
Returned last night from 3 days in the Tsa'chila communities around Santo_Domingo_de los_Tsa'chilas, mostly in the community of El Búa. Met many local people, participated in a community meeting, walked around, and learned about people's lives and needs. Did a tour of a small nature reserve, which is one of only a few small patches of remaining forest, and learned about native plants used for food, construction, handicrafts and medicine. The second night, we were treated to a great live music performance with handmade drums and marimba. Helped test and evaluate some old and mostly nonfunctioning computer equipment at one of the local elementary schools.
Still defining the goals of my work in the community, but have many ideas for helping with reforestation, mapping for land use planning, and setting up educational programs for health, environmental awareness, and better agricultural practices. One challenge is that none of the crops grown there generate much income from the local market in Santo_Domingo. Another is that much of the land has been seriously degraded from chemical use, burning of crop residues, and monoculture. Some of this land has been leased to mestizo campesinos and the indigenous government has recently decided to not renew the leases and to reclaim the land. This is of course a sensitive issue, but presents an opportunity to make improvements in land management. Yanapuma is working to unite the 7 communities in a cultural rescue effort, which has as one tangible objective the construction of the new cultural center.
Lots of mosquitoes there - much more than anywhere else I've been on the trip. There's a fairly good road but very few vehicles passing by. Some of the main crops are plantains, cacao, yuca, malanga (like taro), maracuya (passion fruit), sugar cane, pineapples, teak and corn.
written by  cjones on January 24, 2008 from Quito, Ecuador

Good works
In thinking about how I can best serve in rural communities, and from observing the work of the organizations I've encountered so far, it seems that those that are secular (in practice if not in name) could have good intentions but may hesitate to "impose" a set of values. Too often in the past, values have been imposed by conquerers, colonizers, missionaries, government agencies and NGOs who probably believed they were doing the right thing but caused many problems, and the new organizations don't want to repeat those mistakes. It seems arrogant to suggest that we know what's best for another group of people.
I think it's wrong and not effective in the long-term to impose, and it would be arrogant and misguided to promote a set of values if they were just those of one group of people vs. another. However, what if the values come from God? Of course people could disagree about what God wants, but personally I want to promote what I believe that is, not just anything a community wants. What this could mean in a particular context isn't fixed. I believe God desires for us to be humble and continuously turn to him for guidance in prayer.
In the book Tropical Forests and the Human Spirit, it was noted that without a common spiritual tradition, there is little to prevent self-interest (we could say “sin”) from undermining the goals of the best intentioned development efforts.
It may be impossible NOT to promote a set of values. It's just that in a secular organization, these may not be discussed - they could be more implicit. We promote values by the way we live and the kind of relationships we have. How can even the best intentioned really do any good without God?
Whoever invokes a blessing in the land
will do so by the God of truth;
he who takes an oath in the land
will swear by the God of truth.
For the past troubles will be forgotten
and hidden from my eyes.
Isaiah 65:16

La playa
Sua, Ecuador
Low tide at Súa
Taking it easy at the beach after a cold couple of weeks in Quito. Explored around Súa, a small relatively quit beach town, with Sara, the volunteer coordinator for Yanapuma who's here from Denmark until March. Missed my camera that got lost on the trip to Búa a few weeks ago, because I tried to capture some of the beautiful scenes but the picture quality of the new camera just doesn't compare. Heading to a farm near here tomorrow.
written by  cjones on February 10, 2008 from Sua, Ecuador

Local thinking
Building the base of the seed dryer/cob oven
Paperng the sand-filled interior of the oven
Spent a couple of days at a farm on the coast, on a nature reserve owned by George and Christine, a couple from Peru who moved from the city to live close to the land, to help organize associations for conservation and organic production, and to set an example for others in how to manage the land more sustainably.
Arrived during the construction of an innovative seed and fruit dryer made out of cob - mixed sand, clay and fiber - and using a passive solar collector and bread oven (depending on the weather) to dry the seeds or fruit (or coffee or cacao beans). Since none of the raw crops generate much income, appropriate technology such as this could add value to products and be enable more economical production. Since some fruits are harvested only during a short season each year, preserving fruits in this way could make a greater diversity of foods available (e.g. mangoes) year round.
Another way to increase income could be to form associations to eliminate some of the distribution costs from farm to market. For example, by joining together, individual farmers may be able to rent a truck themselves to transport produce to market rather than each paying individually to a distributor to pick up and deliver the produce. Also, there may be tax breaks, as well as agricultural benefits, for sustainably managing and obtaining protected status for agroforesty lands.
The dominant economic model promotes exportation and mass production that benefits a few at the expense of many and is damaging to communities and the environment. Rural communities buy Cokes and chips that are mass produced somewhere else and sell bananas and pineapples into the commodity market. Although fairly traded products like cacao could play a role, I think from it's generally more beneficial to strengthen the local economy and allow communities to become more self-sufficient.
It's very challenging to even incrementally improve the income of families in the rural areas with agricultural products. However, it seems that with more awareness, appropriate training and reliance on locally available materials and products, the need for income could be reduced and by a more nutritious locally-grown diet, some health problems could be averted.
written by  cjones on February 14, 2008 from Quito, Ecuador

Robbed!
The night before last, a place where I and many other interns and volunteers had stashed our belongings, was broken into, ransacked and robbed. I was away in the Búa community only one day when I heard the news, and returned yesterday to assess the damage. Lost my travel guitar, but other valuables were hidden well enough so I was more fortunate than some of the others. Suppose it's just a normal part of traveling in this part of the world, but it seems that every week I hear of another robbery of someone I know.
It's difficult being here and trying to help create a better life when so many don't seem to care about their society and environment, but only their own selfish interests. This seems especially true in the cities, but even in rural comunities I've visited it's a very small percentage of people - and mostly around my stage of life, rather than younger adults or elders - that are actively involved in trying to improve things. Most are just buying into the consumerism and indulgences being pushed on them from the cities. Guess this is not much different than in the US, but I see more crime here. Then again I'm traveling and living in different circles than in the US.
written by  cjones on February 21, 2008 from Quito, Ecuador

Tranquilo
Banos, Ecuador
Thermal baths
Escaping the cold and the thieves in Quito to take a week of intensive Spanish classes here in Baños. Soaked in one of the thermal baths here this morning and hope the pleasant weather here will help me shake the cold or flu I've had now for over a week. Last night, I went in a chiva - a brightly colored open-air bus with seats on the roof - to try for a look at the fiery summit of the active volcano that towers above the town. However, it was impossible to see anything with all the mist so we were treated to an impressive fire juggling show instead.
written by  cjones on March 1, 2008 from Banos, Ecuador

The feel of the rock
Banos, Ecuador
At the crux
Finally, after almost a year, got to do some climbing outside! Found a guide who's a good climber and has the equipment. It's also been mostly sunny here, which was a pleasant surprise since it's the rainy season and I'd heard that none of the climbing areas were dry.
Also working on the map for the Búa territory, which has become a political issue since in spite of our explanations to the contrary a group of local people have been spreading rumors that the purpose of this is to raise taxes. The map will integrate GPS coordinates of houses and parcels together with an aerial photo from the government's Instituto Geográfico Militar.
Rio Pastaza and waterfalls
written by  cjones on March 6, 2008 from Banos, Ecuador

Welcome to the jungle
Tena, Ecuador
Stopped by the jungle on the way back to Quito from Baños. Tena is one of the largest towns in the Ecuadorian Amazon, but planning to go to a smaller town later today. Staying in a nice hotel in the trees overlooking a fast-moving river that is surprisingly clear and clean considering all the development around here. There's even wi-fi in the hotel, which I'm using to post this blog entry.
Thinking about the people I met in Baños and the current conditions in Ecuador I've been learning about from the news media and from talking with my Spanish teacher all week. The country is in the midst of a natural crisis with the severe rains that have destroyed many of the towns and crops in the lowlands, as well as a political crisis with the invasion a week ago by the Colombian army, who killed a group of guerrillas camped and sleeping in Ecuador near the border. Ecuador is neutral in regard to the Colombian civil war and of course this was a violation of national sovereignty. Colombia's position is that they were pursuing "terrorists" who were gathering their forces for a major attack, but this was apparently not true and there have been terrorists on both sides of the war.
Ecuador also formed a national assembly last year to rewrite the constitution so now many of the laws could change, hopefully for the better. I've read about a lot of resistance to the US military base on the coast in Manta, and a question about tariffs increasing on exports to the US due to the expiration of an Andean trade agreement linked to eradication of coca. The president has proposed protecting from oil exploration vast tracts of Amazonian forest as a carbon reservoir for the planet. However, the proposal would require partial compensation by the international community, which so far has not responded.
Also reflecting on the tenuousness of the lives of people living next to the volcano in Baños. About nine years ago when there was a time of very intense volcanic activity, my teacher Marco and his family had to leave their homes and livelihoods, and quickly evacuate to another city for a year. This was almost necessary again about a month ago. Marco is indigenous and also Christian. In Spanish he told some great stories about how he was brought to his faith and about miracles and fulfilled prophesies that he and his friends had witnessed. I also heard about 4-year-old kids being sold into slavery or working and living on the street.
written by  cjones on March 8, 2008 from Tena, Ecuador

Anticipation
Waiting with much excitement for Alyssa to arrive tonight and then to travel with her around the country next week. :)
Walking the perimeter of Segundo's farm
Making good progress with the mapping of the Búa territory. Visited Búa again Tuesday and Wednesday to coordinate with Pascal, who's been living there, taking GPS measurements of parcels and collecting information from campesinos about crops, soil quality, etc. Walked briskly(!) with him and two of the community members around the parcels of one family for 4 or 5 hours on Wednesday through deep mud, thick brush and stream crossings. Still have blisters from the wet rubber boots rubbing against my bare feet.
Worked out a process for acquiring, organizing and transferring the GPS data and integrating this into a digital map with an aerial photo from the Ecuadorian military geographic institute. Through meetings with the local council and accompaniment by council members in the data collection, Yanapuma has eased suspicions about the purpose of the maps so that we now have the enthusiastic support of almost the entire Búa community. Pascal will also be teaching a few of the locals to use the technology so they can continue the data collection after he leaves in a couple of months.
In the thick of it
Taking a break for fresh papaya
written by  cjones on March 15, 2008 from Quito, Ecuador

Mi hija
Had a great time with Alyssa last week, traveling around the northern part of the country - the cloud forest around Mindo, the coast at Canoa, the traditional market at Otavalo in the _highlands_ and the historic center of Quito.
Shooting the butterflies in Mindo
Found her first sand dollar
Market day in Otavalo
At the Basilica
written by  cjones on March 24, 2008 from Quito, Ecuador

Finca Sarita
Calceta, Ecuador
Looking down from my room in the trees
Stayed for the past 2 days at Finca Sarita, a farm in the community of Sarampión, about 40 minutes by bus and by foot from Calceta. This is in the region of Ecuador that was inundated by the heavy rains recently. At one point, the rain and floods had deposited 2 or 3 feet of water under and around the family's home at the farm. The family's vegetable garden was completely destroyed, but farmhands were preparing the space for a new garden yesterday.
Discussed many things with Servio, whose family has lived on the same land for 150 years and has always practiced organic agriculture - using no synthetic chemicals and maintaining a wide diversity of fruit trees and other crops I'd never heard of before, such as the "air potato" which grows on a vine instead of underground. Learned about the successful organic cacao and reforestation projects in the community, and a community-managed enterprise to export palm leaves for floral arrangements, as well as difficulties in obtaining credit for other potential enterprises.
It seems that by supporting just individual entrepreneurs the current trend in microcredit could be creating disruptive competition and missing the point of what is best for the life of a community as a whole. Some projects, such as a chocolate factory or a community store that would sell locally processed foods (e.g. banana chips, other dried fruits, candies) instead of mass-produced junk snack foods from the multinational companies, require larger investments of capital than are available from microcredit programs.
The organic cacao project has been successful because of the investments of an Ecuadorian NGO that has assisted in obtaining organic certification and also buys the cacao at a fair price and sells to a chocolate producer in Germany.
Although there has been little mention of it in the press, which is controlled by business interests generally against Ecuador´s current president, a new program he has promoted called "5 plus 5 plus 5", for $5000 loans at 5% for 5 years, has the potential to be of great help to campesinos struggling to survive on their land. This is in stark contrast to lending practices of private banks in the past, which have charged up to 60% interest and required a document prepared by an attorney that could cost several hundred dollars.
Another problem I heard about with the banks occurred with "dollarization" in 2000 when depositors' accounts were frozen for 3 months, then the national currency (the sucre) was converted to dollars at the rate of around 25,000:1 although the international exchange rate was actually more like 8,000:1.
Maria roasting the delicious cacao and coffee
Cacao nacional (yellow)
written by  cjones on April 2, 2008 from Calceta, Ecuador

Last trip to Búa
Returned from Búa yesterday afternoon. Worked with Pascal on the mapping project and discussed the continuation of the work after we both leave Ecuador this month (in my case at the end of next week). Also discussed my visit to Finca Sarita with Alfonso, a Tsa'chila collaborator with Yanapuma. Seems that the campesinos in Búa could learn much from the agricultural practices in Sarampión to better care for their community and their lands. Hopefully, they will have the opportunity to visit Servio's farm to see for themselves the diversity of crops grown within the forest, the self-sufficient and nutritious diet, and community associations there.
"This is what the LORD says:
'In the time of my favor I will answer you,
and in the day of salvation I will help you;
I will keep you and will make you
to be a covenant for the people,
to restore the land
and to reassign its desolate inheritances'"
Isaiah 49:8
written by  cjones on April 5, 2008 from Quito, Ecuador

New language frontier
Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Left behind most of the warm clothes I bought in Quito, and arrived in Rio last night. Trying to adjust to the much higher cost of living and new language here. Feels like I've jumped in the deep end and now need to learn to swim. I'm buying a little time by staying at a hostel where some of the other guests speak English and some speak Spanish. There's a group here from the south who's filming a music video this week and others from all over the world and we're having fun trying to teach each other our languages.
This is the first time I've been around Portuguese and thought it would be easier to understand from the similar spelling of many words in Spanish, but the pronunciation is very different - r's pronounced like h, d's like j, t's like sh, g's like the French j, etc. Surprisingly for me, I've heard that in Rio there may be more people who speak some English than Spanish. Still not many speak either.
written by  cjones on April 12, 2008 from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Break from the big city
Teresopolis, Brazil
Spent this past week taking Portuguese lessons and exploring around Rio, then arrived this afternoon in Teresópolis about an hour and a half bus ride to the north.
Rio is an interesting place and very scenic in parts but it still feels good to be out of the big city. It's a bit tense there with the crime, crowds and current dengue epidemic. Although I met some very nice Cariocas, it definitely feels more relaxed here and the people in general seem more happy and friendly.
Been thinking about how different it feels here in Brazil from the other Latin American countries I've visited. Part of it is the language, which to me seems more like Italian or French than like Spanish. Another part is the different mix of people - more European and African than mestizo and indigenous as in Ecuador. The music is different also - samba and bossa nova instead of salsa and bachata.
Because of the much higher cost of living, I had been buying groceries and eating in the hostel instead of eating out. So while I haven't tried much of the local food yet, what I have tried and seen on the menu is also different from Ecuador. No more platanos, more beans and fruit juices I haven't seen before. For lunch here in Teresópolis, I just had a pitcher of açai juice and a banana and cinnamon pizza!
View of the hostel from the street below
Santa Teresa neighborhood of Rio
Copacabana at sunset
written by  cjones on April 19, 2008 from Teresopolis, Brazil

Opa!
Teresopolis, Brazil
Kickass street music in Teresópolis
View of Dedo de Deus from the hotel window
Hiked around the Serra_dos_Orgãos_National_Park and an outdoor art fair today. Tried the caldo de cana - a cold drink of sugar cane juice. Muito bom! There's good rockclimbing in the area but couldn't find any bouldering on the side of the park I visited. Resting up for the long bus ride tomorrow and making plans for upcoming projects.
written by  cjones on April 21, 2008 from Teresopolis, Brazil

Lonely planet
Brasilia, Brazil
Well I arrived here in Brasilia after 23 hours in buses from Teresópolis. Had some time to do some reading on the bus including the following from the Lonely Planet guide to Brazil.
"Catholicism retains its status as Brazil's official religion, but is declining in popularity. Many people now merely turn up to church for the basics: baptism, marriage and burial. Evangelical Christianity, however, is booming. All over Brazil, especially in poorer communities where people are most desperate, you will come across simple, recently built churches full of worshipers. Sometimes there will be two or three rival evangelical churches on the same street... In one, worshipers may be moaning and speaking in tongues, in another they'll simply be listening to the stern words of a preacher."
Such a dismal view of Christianity! Misses the point and meaning of faith entirely, although I admit I used to think this way. Unfortunately, there seems to be some justification for the cynicism as I've learned that evangelicals in Latin America have often preached that faith is a matter of church and family - rather than action in the world, redemption is to be found in the afterlife - rather than on earth, and that difficulties in life are due to one's sins - rather than to injustices perpetrated by an economic system which should be resisted out of love for one's fellow human beings and the earth. Also heard from a friend in Ecuador that a friend of his who joined an evangelical church became more business-minded and materialistic (bought a fancy car) and less interested in helping the community, apparently because community organizations were not specifically Christian.
One of the implications of the above seems to be that desperate people turn to Christianity because reality is too difficult to bear - thus they accept an illusion that is more tolerable or pleasing. While this could be the case in some instances, I think the result would be a shallow faith. For myself desperation may have been necessary, but also a realization that the illusion is not in faith in God but in faith in the world and those human beings who belong to it. By the "world" I mean the global system of selfish exploitation and greed all around us. From my experience, I could see that believing in the world's promises ultimately leads to desperation - for oneself and for others. Then in addition, there had to be a willingness to trust in something - God - that can be known, although not by the intellect.
The attitude of the Lonely Planet guides and most of the single independent travelers I've met seems to be that traveling is about having fun and having fun is about adventures but also about partying, getting drunk and maybe hooking up for casual affairs they know won't last. Not very inspiring and I've been feeling this more lately since staying in closer quarters with the group at the hostel.
written by  cjones on April 23, 2008 from Brasilia, Brazil

Architectural wonders
Brasilia, Brazil
The apostle Lucas and cathedral in Brasilia
Brasilia's government district
Water garden around one of the government buildings
Met yesterday and today with Luz, a good friend of Oscar Gonzales of A_Rocha_Peru. Today we looked around the downtown area famous for its spectacular modern architecture. Visually for me the place had an amazing effect - wide open spaces and big sky (sort of like Kansas), dazzling architecture, sculptures and water gardens surrounding the buildings, then to top it off an incredible sunset. (But at what environmental cost for this architectural elegance I don't know.)
Had hoped to meet members of A_Rocha_Brasil to learn about their projects here but Luz was unable to reach one of her contacts and another was out of town.
written by  cjones on April 24, 2008 from Brasilia, Brazil

Cerrado
Pirenopolis, Brazil
Vines at Fazenda Vagafogo
Staying in the picturesque colonial town of Pirenópolis, with cobblestone streets, red tile rooftops, lots of sun and _bright_ blue skies. This is in the ecoregion called the cerrado - Brasil's great plains or savanah. Visited a farm and enchanting nature reserve called Fazenda Vagafogo, about 5 km down a dirt road reached from Pirenópolis by motorbike taxi. Feasted on an amazing spread of fresh breads, mermelades, chutneys, cheeses, and other goodies for brunch, all from ingredients produced on the farm. Went for a hike in the woods and a refreshing dip in the river.
written by  cjones on April 26, 2008 from Pirenopolis, Brazil

Iracambi
Rosario da Limeira, Brazil
View from the cabin at Iracambi
Just arrived here at the Iracambi conservation research center in one of the few remnants of the Mata Atlántica - Atlantic Rainforest - in southeast Brazil. Unlike the FUNCEDESCRI and Yanapuma NGOs in Guatemala and Ecuador, this one works in only one community and has its headquarters there, rather than in the city.
The accommodations are here seem more comfortable than in the other communities where I worked, including good food, showers and internet access. Planning to put my software background to use on the GIS project as well as to learn about and hopefully contribute to agroforestry, environmental education and alternative income generation efforts in the community.
written by  cjones on May 1, 2008 from Rosario da Limeira, Brazil

Natural capitalism
Rosario da Limeira, Brazil
Just returned from an all-day meeting in the town of Rosario_da_Limeira on potential sources of income for local farmers from payment for environmental services. About 70 people attended, with about 25% farmers and the rest from NGOs, universities and the state government. The topic was a new program being proposed in the state legislature that would compensate farmers for actions taken to protect water sources, high biodiversity areas and forests for carbon sequestration. The idea is that such payments to land owners would justly pay for land uses that preserve valuable resources, and is an example of the principles put forth by Paul Hawken, who coined the term and wrote a book entitled "Natural Capitalism".
Last weekend I visited an experimental organic coffee farm in the local community of Graminha. The weekend before I went on a 13-hour pilgrimage hike to a cross on a mountaintop in Serra_do_Brigadero state park with Virgilio from Iracambi and several others from Graminha - an annual tradition here on May 3, known as the celebration of Santa Cruz.
During the week, I've been working on the computer system here - resolving map data organization and compatibility issues, and evaluating the quality of the existing map data. I've also been using the GIS to help develop a reforestation plan for the Iracambi fazenda. Most of the property is currently used for agriculture including cattle, tilapia (fish), sugarcane and eucalyptus for timber, but some of the pasture is planned to be converted to forest using seedlings from the tree nursery here for the production of medicinal plants or agroforestry crops.
Sunrise over mountains in Graminha
Destination of pilgrimage on the day of Santa Cruz
The fish farm at Iracambi
Harvesting eucalyptus
Presentation in Rosario (notice maps)
Iracambi's Marcelo - the Brazilian Neil Young
written by  cjones on May 17, 2008 from Rosario da Limeira, Brazil

First fruits
Rosario da Limeira, Brazil
This week I've been finishing up both the work here at Iracambi and the project I've been continuing to work on remotely for Yanapuma. Got some great news a few days ago that the grant proposal I wrote for Yanapuma was approved! This will pay for many thousands of dollars worth of GIS software and training materials for Yanapuma to continue the mapping project in Bua and to develop maps for the other communities they work with.
Also earlier this week I received the map data I was waiting for to complete the Bua map. Finished the map, which can be opened in a free program called ArcReader and allows a user to interactively explore and query the underlying map data, for example crop types, family names and areas of parcels.
At Iracambi, the new GIS coordinator arrived on Wednesday so we have a few days of overlap for me to transfer what I've observed, learned and managed to accomplish here before I leave. Made some progress with the reforestation map and cleaning up the data organization on their computer network. Also learned more about the agricultural and economic situation here and the lives of some of the local families. The reforestation plan, of which the map is a part, includes agroforestry areas to be used for experimentation and demonstration to producers in the surrounding communities.
I feel blessed to have this success and completion of the work I initiated within the past 5 months. After some setbacks, it's been encouraging.
written by  cjones on May 31, 2008 from Rosario da Limeira, Brazil

Holy Spirit
Vila Velha, Brazil
Now I'm on the coast north of Rio in the state of Espírito Santo (Holy Spirit). Feels good to be here in the spirit! Vila Velha is sort of a suburb of Vitória, the capital and largest city in the state. Rather urban and modern but it has a nice, very clean beach lined with lots of food and drink shacks.
Noticed on the bus trip yesterday all the destruction of forests and soils in this part of the country, being used mostly for monoculture coffee plantations and as pastures for cattle. While in Central America much of the coffee is grown along with and in the shade of other tree species, here in Brazil - by far the largest coffee producer in the world - almost all of it is grown in the sun. This is very harmful to the soil and biodiversity, and requires much chemical use that damages the health of people and other life besides the targeted pests.
As I logged on to my email account just now, I noticed a news article on Brazil's new environment minister talking about cracking down on illegal cutting of forests for cattle grazing. The article says that burning to clear new or overgrown pasture in the Amazon accounts for about 75 percent of Brazil's production of greenhouse gases that contribute to global warming. That doesn't even consider the loss of trees to absorb atmospheric carbon, nor the cows' production of methane, which is a more potent greenhouse gas than carbon dioxide. And not just in the Amazon but in other areas of Brazil like the Atlantic rainforest where I was working. These could be some good reasons to eat less beef - to reduce the demand - and if you eat it to be more selective about where it comes from.
It seems that cattle grazing is a particularly destructive use of land in the tropics. Aside from the methane, it requires a lot of land for the quantity of food produced. But there are other destructive land uses, and good laws against deforestation exist - they're just not enforced and wealthy landowners have a lot of influence on politicians and the police. Without more enforcement, better economic alternatives and/or more conscientiousness about preserving nature - whether from a biblical or other perspective - I think the rainforest will continue to be destroyed for one purpose or another.
So what's a better alternative to the cattle? We need to be careful about what we substitute so that the cure isn't worse than the disease. The forest needs to be restored but people need income, although if they can produce their own food and trade with their neighbors they need less.
On the topic of cures worse than the disease: During my time in South America, I've been thinking, observing, reading about and talking with people about the effects of both oil extraction and the production of biofuels here. It's been well publicized that oil exploration and extraction have been destructive to forests, wildlife, rivers and people. One particularly glaring example occurred during the 70's through the early 90's in northeastern Ecuador, where the volume of oil spilled is estimated to have been 30 times that of the Exxon Valdez spill. And of course oil use contributes to global warming. But when land use is considered, the large-scale production of biofuels may have an even more detrimental impact on the climate (and on ecosystems in general) than oil.
Brazil is a major producer of biofuels - mostly from sugar cane but also from corn in the north. I saw smaller-scale production of a plant called mamona, grown for fuel oil alongside coffee at a farm next to Iracambi. Noticed that in the gas stations you can buy alcohol for much less than gasoline, and I heard that some people use this for travel within the city and gasoline for longer trips on the highway for more power.
written by  cjones on June 3, 2008 from Vila Velha, Brazil

Nice beach
Piuma, Brazil
Low tide in Piúma
Relaxing another day in this small fishing village before making the trip back to Rio for the weekend. Found a huge room with a balcony overlooking the ocean for the same price as a bed in a dorm room at the hostel in Rio. Great seafood and a beautiful beach here. Explored around some trails at an ecological reserve next to the town.
In the past few days, as I've been making conversation with people, a number of them have told me I speak good Portuguese! But then others didn't understand a word - just stared open-jawed and giggled, as if I was from another planet! Haven't seen other gringos since I left Iracambi on Monday.
written by  cjones on June 6, 2008 from Piuma, Brazil

Leaving Rio
Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
It's my last day in Brazil before heading back to KC for a few weeks. Had an amazing time here and have been blessed with many beautiful places and great people.
View from Corcovado
Cristo Redentor
written by  cjones on June 9, 2008 from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Birthday in Guatemala
Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
Arrived in Guatemala on Monday and met with the staff of FUNCEDESCRI (Fundación de Servicios Cristianos) yesterday about returning to work with them on a project to build the infrastructure for their rural communities to be able to produce their own education and training materials. This is especially challenging because most people in the communities speak their own Mayan dialect but not Spanish and in some cases do not have a written tradition in their native language. A computer center and training program is planned for each community to allow creation of media such as audiovisual presentations, leaflets and posters. Another form of pedagogic communication will be puppet shows.
FUNCEDESCRI hopes that the community designed and managed education programs they are enabling will promote better agricultural practices for health and the environment, and a more localized economic system that will better support the communities.
written by  cjones on July 4, 2008 from Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala

Back to school
Quetzaltenango, Guatemala
Yesterday, I started Spanish classes here in Quetzaltenango (also called Xela, pronounced "Shayla"), where I've been staying since Friday night. Learned that at least sometimes it's better not to plan ahead because I had registered online at one school that looked good online but was dissatisfied with it after visiting it in person. Also discovered that it was unnecessary to pay a registration fee, which I'm now trying to recover. Found another school that seems much better and costs less, so I registered at this one yesterday morning and had my first class there in the afternoon.
Also just received some great news from Yanapuma in their bi-monthly newsletter. Turns out that a couple of weeks ago they arranged a visit by a group of Tsa'chila from the Búa community to Finca Sarita, the organic agroforestry farm I visited in March (see blog entry on April 2). Apparently, the community members were very impressed, and as I had hoped this could lead to continued exchange of knowledge about more sustainable agricultural practices that could greatly benefit the Búa community and their land.
I had first learned about Finca Sarita from people I met at Rio Muchacho last November. Then after my visit in March and discussions there with Servio (the owner) about the needs of the Búa community, I met with people in Búa and Yanapuma staff in Quito to discuss how the farm could serve as an model and valuable source of agricultural and community development knowledge for the Tsa'chila communities, particularly Búa. My intention in all this was to bring Servio and the Sarampión community together with the Búa community through the assistance of Yanapuma. I believed, as did others at Yanapuma, that seeing a real-life example of a better alternative could be more helpful and motivating than hearing about one in a series of workshops.
written by  cjones on July 8, 2008 from Quetzaltenango, Guatemala

Land of the Zapatistas
San Cristobal de Las Casas, Mexico
Arrived here yesterday afternoon in San Cristobal de Las Casas, in the Mexican state of Chiapas, after stopping over for a day in Huehuetenango, Guatemala. Took the chicken bus from Quetzaltenango to Huehue but a private shuttle service from Huehue to here. Not that much difference in the price when you consider taxis to and from the bus terminals, which haven't been very close to the hotels. The shuttle also saves time and allows better views of the surrounding countryside. There was a distinct change in scenery after crossing the border into Mexico - less mountainous and more wide-open spaces and large farms. Planning to stay here until the weekend and take more Spanish classes.
Catedral de San Cristobal
The city is named after St. Bartolome de las Casas, who fought nonviolently for indigenous rights in the 16th century and now the Zapatistas are doing the same thing for the Mayan people of Chiapas as well as other oppressed and marginalized people in other parts of the country largely through an internet-based media campaign. From what I can tell, their portrayal in the mass media as dangerous rebels appears to be misleading propaganda most likely fomented by business and political interests the Zapatistas oppose. While a few armed clashes occurred within the first 2 weeks of the uprising in 1994 (which coincided with the implementation of NAFTA), the group has abstained from using weapons since then. However, the Mexican army remains vigilant and there continue to be reports of intimidation and violence by police and paramilitaries against indigenous people in the more remote areas. Here in San Cristobal I've seen a street named "Insurgentes" and much graffiti, artwork and published writing in favor of the Zapatista movement.
written by  cjones on July 14, 2008 from San Cristobal de Las Casas, Mexico

The survivors
Todos Santos Cuchumatan, Guatemala
Plaza in Todos Santos
From what I'd heard I didn't think I'd be able to use the internet here in this small town in the mountains of western Guatemala, but it must have arrived just recently. Started another week of Spanish classes here yesterday, and last night at the Spanish school I attended a showing of a documentary on the war in this area during the 80's called "Todos_Santos: The Survivors." From the window of this internet cafe, I can see the church where according to the film the residents of the town were locked in while 5 of them were tortured and killed by the army.
During that period anyone who criticized the rich or the government was likely to be branded as a guerrilla supporter and terrorized or killed, often in the most horrific way possible to shock and intimidate the rest of the population. A lot like what has been happening in Colombia more recently.
Another disturbing aspect of the film was the enlistment of evangelicals in paramilitary militias to fight against guerrillas and anyone who was construed to be a sympathizer, including Catholics who were branded as sympathizers because of similarity between Catholic social teaching and the rhetoric of the guerrillas in regard to helping the poor. From the interviews in the film it appeared that many people may have converted to evangelicalism out of fear of further reprisals by the government. In the video clips of church services, I could see a lot of shouting and frenzied singing but not much evidence of humility or love for one's neighbor as oneself.
For fools speak foolishness
and make evil plans.
They practice ungodliness
and spread false teachings about the Lord.
They deprive the hungry of food
and give no water to the thirsty.
The smooth tricks of scoundrels are evil.
They plot crooked schemes.
They lie to convict the poor,
even when the cause of the poor is just.
Isaiah 32:6 & 7
written by  cjones on July 22, 2008 from Todos Santos Cuchumatan, Guatemala

La Laguna
In my fourth week of Spanish classes, now at the same school as last September. Spending most of my time studying and reading in Spanish, and doing research online for future projects. Feeling the effects of the shrinking US dollar and high inflation in Guatemala - still relatively cheap but prices are at least 25% higher than 10 months ago.
written by  cjones on July 31, 2008 from San Pedro La Laguna, Guatemala

Other side
San Marcos La Laguna, Guatemala
Moved to San Marcos La Laguna on the the other side of the lake, and went for a walk along the north_shore.
Trail along the north shore
San Pedro on the far shore
On Thursday I met Julio, a teacher at the Spanish school who is also the husband of Vila, my teacher from last year. He invited me over to their house so after class the next day, I went there with him and he and Vila described the work they're doing to help the kids in the community. She stopped teaching at the Spanish school and is now running a free preschool in their very small house.
In addition to working with a local NGO to help kids do their homework (which apparently many local parents don't help with), he has started building a library in his house to lend books to kids and encourage them to read. According to him the kids don't have another place to borrow books since the public library doesn't lend books but only allows them to be used for 2 hours at a time in the library. He also meets regularly with the kids to discuss the books they're reading.
I was really inspired by this couple who has so little and spends their time and the very little money they have to help the local kids. They also have a child of their own - a boy about 3 or 4 years old. Julio is trying to build his library and keep multiple copies of some books so the kids can read and discuss them together. He has worked out an arrangement with a local owner of a tourist restaurant and internet cafe that sells and exchanges books in English. For 2 used books in English the owner purchases one book in Spanish and donates this to Julio's library.
If anyone is interested in contributing used books to this project - in Spanish or in English - let me know and I'll send the address to mail them to.
written by  cjones on August 2, 2008 from San Marcos La Laguna, Guatemala

Sumidero Canyon
Tuxtla Gutierrez, Mexico
Christmas Tree waterfall
Visited Cañón del Sumidero, an hour an a half or so from San Cristobal de Las Casas, which was beautiful place but it was sad to see all the pollution in the reservoir and the excessive tourism (to which I contributed). Felt guilty riding in one of the many tour boats spewing the toxic chemicals into the lake. However, it was good to see this as an example of eco-tourism run amok. There's a cleanup project underway to remove the trash but this doesn't appear to be very serious since plastic bottles are being removed by hand without even basic equipment like nets.
Cañón del Sumidero
Crocadrilo
written by  cjones on July 18, 2008 from Tuxtla Gutierrez, Mexico

Indigenous network
San Lucas Sacatepequez, Guatemala
I've been here again at FUNCEDESCRI for a week and a half now, mostly working on proposals to augment an existing project for media production and difusion centers in the indigenous communities where the organization works.
There will be one center at the headquarters in San Lucas Sacatepequez and 3 other centers in indigenous communities in different areas of the country. In each community, the people speak a different indigenous language and very few read or speak much Spanish. However, each center will employ 4 "tecnicos" who are bilingual in Spanish and the local dialect. There will be a computer center in each community, but none of these will have internet access, at least initially. Two of these are in a location with electrical service, and alternative energy sources such as solar are being investigated for the third. Communication among the centers in the communities will need to be accomplished by mobile phone or by using the internet service (internet cafe) in a nearby town. Because of the time involved with traveling to town and expense of using the internet, it will be probably be practical for the tecnicos in the communities to access the internet only once or twice per week.
In the center at the headquarters, there will be internet access, a training facility, and access to translators to translate the materials from one community into the dialect of the others (with Spanish being the standard interchange language).
Initially at least, the content of the media developed at the centers is expected to have to do with topics such as food sovereignty (i.e. production for local consumption), sustainable development alternatives, agriculture, conservation, nutrition, etc. The idea is to facilitate sharing of experiences and knowledge among the communities and to allow them to work together to build an alternative economy that is better for the people. FUNCEDESCRI does not intend to direct the content of the media, but rather to provide the tools to allow the communities to plan, design, and manage the media production and distribution process themselves.
written by  cjones on August 13, 2008 from San Lucas Sacatepequez, Guatemala

Tikal
Flores, Guatemala
Light and shadow on the trail
Traveling now for 2 weeks before returning to San Lucas Sacatepequez to continue the work with FUNCEDESCRI. I've been staying in Flores since Saturday, and left the hostel a little after 3 this morning to catch the_sunrise in Tikal, about an hour and a half away by shuttle. Had an amazing view and concert of sound from above the canopy as the forest woke up to the new day. Tikal is an amazing national_park best known for its gigantic Mayan ruins, but situated right in the middle of the spectacular rainforest that covers much of the Guatemalan department of Peten. To me this is like the Yosemite of Guatemala with all the awesome scenery, and has probably the best opportunities for viewing wildlife in the rainforest that I've encountered so far. Saw and heard lots of monkeys, a coatimundi and tropical birds including many toucans and big green parrots.
Rainforest of Petén
written by  cjones on August 18, 2008 from Flores, Guatemala

Romero
San Salvador, El Salvador
Now I'm here in the capital city of El Salvador, on the rooftop of the hostel using the wireless internet, on a night with perfect weather - cooler than the lowland jungle of Peten but not cold as in San Lucas Sacatepequez.
This afternoon I visited 2 museums commemorating Oscar Romero, the renowned archbishop of this country who was killed in 1980 for his defense of the rights of the poor, and the 6 Jesuit priests and 2 assistants who were massacred by the army at the Universidad Centroamericana in 1989. Both of the museums were on the sites where the killings occurred (Romero was gunned down while performing mass at the church on the grounds of the hospital where he lived). Those events felt especially real and haunting at the university after I was shown some very graphic photos of the murdered and mutilated bodies in the living quarters I had just visited. The army responsible for these killings and for other massacres of entire villages of up to 1000 people - men, women and children - was secretly backed by the US government. In fact, several officials indicted in the "Iran Contra Affair" were subsequently appointed to high-ranking positions by the current administration, but few people in our country have learned about this.
written by  cjones on August 21, 2008 from San Salvador, El Salvador

Cunen film project
Cunen, Guatemala
Companion planting of corn + med plants
Returned from El Salvador to Antigua on Saturday, then yesterday I travelled with Vico and Henry from the headquarters in San Lucas Sacatepequez to FUNCEDESCRI's community center in Cunén, about 6 or 7 hours away. Getting to know the work at the center as well as accompanying and trying to help Vico as he is filming a documentary on medicinal plant production and use in the traditional medicine clinic at the center. Learning about the use of medicinal plants in the process.
Got some good feedback on the proposal I wrote to use the internet and audio media to distribute information to the communities. This was discussed in a meeting at the headquarters last week, and the staff from the community centers liked some of the ideas and made suggestions about others to better fit with the social and economic realities.
The media center under construction
Myra and Vico
Harvesting plants at the center
Sorting and cleaning the rosemary stalks
One of the new wells in nearby Xemanzana
Sifting the dried linaza (flax)
written by  cjones on September 2, 2008 from Cunen, Guatemala

One year
San Lucas Sacatepequez, Guatemala
It's been a year now since I started this journey. How can I describe this experience and how my life has been shaped in this past year?
In one sense, time passes quickly. In another, my old life seems so far away now. It's been a year of constant change. The longest I stayed in one place was a month, and usually I stayed less than a week. I've taken courses in organic agriculture, Spanish and Portuguese, and worked in conservation and rural poverty alleviation with small NGOs in 4 countries (twice with the same one in Guatemala).
I have a lot more to learn, but I think the experience has given me a good overview of rural life and the state of agriculture and the forests in tropical Latin America. I've also learned something about how small NGOs operate, and how I may be able to use my computer background in conservation and rural development work in the future.
I've learned to live more simply, without some of the material comforts and conveniences I was used to, and with more willingness to accept the generous hospitality of my friends. I also made many new friends in places I visited, and have had many good conversations that have stayed with me.
The work continues. The effects of anything I've done may not be visible in terms of the actual living conditions in the communities. But real change takes more time, and it seems that the value may be in the heart that is put into the effort. This is a different way of thinking than that of the business mindset, with its emphasis on short-term "results." I think the important things are desire to please God and the quality of relationships formed in the work, even when external improvements are not obvious. It is a temptation to give up because our efforts seem futile.
I may have planted a few seeds this year but these will need to be cared for, by myself or by others, in order for them to eventually produce the desired fruit.
So how can I continue to be a part of this work? It seems that the things of greatest value can't be paid for. Nature and the poor can't pay, the small nonprofit organizations have few resources and the larger ones may be controlled more by their own bureaucratic and professional self-interests than the actual needs in the_field. I think that small is beautiful, but in the nonprofit realm this means submitting to much less income and a much simpler life.
written by  cjones on September 9, 2008 from San Lucas Sacatepequez, Guatemala

Storms brewing
Had to postpone the flight back to KC a couple of days due to Hurricane Ike pounding the coast of Texas. Appears that all of Continental's flights from Guatemala (and probably most other Latin American cities) pass through Houston, and the airport is closed until at least tomorrow afternoon. I've been checking the news on the internet and it sounds very bad, but still not much information on the toll of human life.
Also concerned about the news of tensions between the US and Venezuela. I think Chavez has some legitimate complaints but I worry about his hot-blooded militaristic showmanship and hope that both he and our government exercise restraint. I also worry about the US public being duped into condoning violence by claims that Chavez supports terrorism and drug-trafficking when the real issue is oil (Venezuela is the fourth largest exporter to the US and has the largest reserves outside of Canada and the Persion Gulf).
One thing that people in our country should recognize is that however we might disagree with them, both Chavez and Morales (president of Bolivia) are not dictators. They were freely elected and have the support of a clear majority of the people in their countries, who mostly just want to be self-determining and not dominated by foreign governments, foreign businesses, or economic institutions such as the IMF and World Bank.
Also thinking about the upcoming elections in the US and I hope people keep in mind the positions of the candidates on policies that cause more poverty, death and environmental destruction in the rest of the world. From all I've learned, the trade agreements promoted by the big corporations based in the US and other northern countries are good for their profits but, in spite of the nice-sounding "free trade" propaganda, are very harmful to the vast majority of people and to the health of the planet.
For example, agreements that allow dumping of cheap food from abroad, even if the low prices are just temporary, result in farmers being unable to compete in local or national markets (and there are other problems with producing for export), so they lose their land and either migrate to slums in the big cities or to another country like the US.
This is not an intellectual debate for me now. Get away from the US and the vacation destinations, visit the third world, ask questions (for this it helps to speak the language) and you can see it. It's about callous greed and deception by those in power. This comes from many sources: from within the third world countries themselves, from the US and from other foreign countries.
It's not just the US. Maybe we've been unfairly singled out in the minds of some in Latin America, but I think we should seek to know the truth, not just what is comfortable to believe, repent of arrogance and take responsibility for our country's part in creating misery in other parts of the world. We should try to recognize when we're being lied to by the politicians and public relations experts.
written by  cjones on September 13, 2008 from Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala

Lomas of Lachay
Lima, Peru
I've been back in Peru almost a week now, staying with Amparo, Ronald and their son Esteban - a family I met last year through A_Rocha. Leaving for Tarapoto in the Amazon region of the country this Friday. In the meantime I've been visiting friends and learning about environmental education projects around Lima. Today I went with Amparo on a field_trip she organized for a group of 35 ninth-graders to the Reserva Nacional de Lachay, about 2 hours up the coast from here. The area is best known for its "lomas," or green oasises in the barren sand landscape of coastal Peru, which receive moisture from mist blown in from the ocean. In addition to gaining an appreciation of the natural beauty in this place, the kids learned about important ecological concepts, such as the effects of deforestation and climate change.
Lachay landscape
With students in Lachay
written by  cjones on September 30, 2008 from Lima, Peru

Jungle home
Tarapoto, Peru
Street scene in Tarapoto
In a sense, it felt like returning home yesterday when I stepped off the airplane onto the tarmac and walked over to the small waiting room at the airport in Tarapoto. After a warm welcome by Jose Antonio, we took a mototaxi to his apartment where he lives with his wife Angela and kids Annabelén and Joel. The weather is hot here in the jungle and I'm now renting a comfortable small room (except for the lack of a fan, which I need to buy today) a couple of doors down from Jose's apartment.
Using the internet from the office in Jose's church, where there's a big window with a view of the street and a continuous stream of motorcycles and 3-wheeled mototaxis passing by (practically no cars here).
We'll be working on research and planning for environmental education and conservation programs in and around Tarapoto, involving the internet and activities with schools, churches and the local government.
View of mango tree and mototaxi from the office
Threat to the planet: one of many fires I saw in flight
written by  cjones on October 4, 2008 from Tarapoto, Peru

Creation care
Reading the new book "Kingfisher's Fire" by Peter Harris, who founded the A_Rocha organization in Portugal about 25 years ago. As Jose and I are working to establish an A_Rocha presence here in the Peruvian Amazon, I was encouraged by Peter's stories about how other groups around the world got started with little more than a few people with desire and commitment. I was also impressed by his explanation of how the Bible teaches that creation care is not just one of the good things that Christians are called to do. Understood correctly, it is at the core of what it means to worship and serve God.
Yet Christianity has become so corrupted that most Christians ignore their calling to be stewards of nature, and pay their allegiance to an economic system that is destroying the planet. Furthermore, many environmentalists - be they Christian or of another persuasion - believe that the justification for conservation is the enjoyment, health or even survival of human beings. Peter Harris suggests that the justification is about all of creation, not just people, and about our relationship with God.
Whether we interpret the stories in Genesis literally or metaphorically, to believe in creation care means to understand that everything comes from and belongs to God - nothing exists apart from God; creation is the visible expression of the unseen God and we show our love for God by appreciating and caring for his creation.
Hear the word of the LORD, you Israelites,
because the LORD has a charge to bring
against you who live in the land:
"There is no faithfulness, no love,
no acknowledgment of God in the land.
There is only cursing, lying and murder,
stealing and adultery;
they break all bounds,
and bloodshed follows bloodshed.
Because of this the land mourns,
and all who live in it waste away;
the beasts of the_field and the birds of the air
and the fish of the sea are dying.
Hosea 4:1-3
written by  cjones on October 15, 2008 from Tarapoto, Peru

Life in Tarapoto
It's been over 2 weeks since I've been here in Tarapoto and feel like I'm starting to settle in and appreciate the rhythm of life here. Think I'd like it better if there was less motorcycle traffic but I still prefer these to cars. In a typical day, I walk about 5 blocks from my room to the office in the church, and from either place it's about 6 blocks or so to the town center where there are restaurants, grocery stores and even a good coffee house.
Here most of the people seem very friendly and there doesn't seem to be much of a crime problem - at least as compared to other places I've stayed, like Lima and Quito. I like that I can take my laundry to a lady who lives across the street and buy fresh fruit from the house of another lady who lives on the same block. There are many restaurants with 2-course lunches with juice for a dollar or two. Some families serve dinner out of their houses on their front porches. Last night I had a juane (rice, olives, spices and a little chicken wrapped in a banana leaf), a few small humitas (like a soft tamale), yuca (a starchy root vegetable) and a small pitcher of cebada - a drink made from a kind of barley, like a dark beer but sweeter and without the alcohol.
One example of a difference, or inconvenience, here are the gimnasios. I visited a couple of these to get some exercise, and they are cheap but hot, dirty and stocked with equipment that almost without exception is comically defective. Many of the machines take a lot of contortions just to position yourself to use them. I've injured myself in some good gyms in the States but it would be so much easier to injure yourself here. Last time I broke the rope cord used in place of a steel cable on the pulldown machine. I have the impression that some enterprising businessperson found a pile of useless equipment about to be discarded, and had the brilliant idea of opening a business with practically no upfront capital costs!
Another interesting thing are the health food ("naturista") liquor establishments. These are also very informal - sometimes in the front room of someone's house - and stocked with homemade liquors from local fruits and medicinal plants. I bought a couple bottles of one "antigripal" concoction to help me get over the cold I had last week.
It's very hot during the day, but I feel relatively comfortable having a place to live with a clean bathroom. Can't complain about the price - just 200 soles/month, which translates to about $2/day. In contrast with many other places in town, including restaurants and the church, the water supply has been reliable there so far. The erratic water supply in other places is largely due to the deforestation in the area, which has caused less rain and more runoff of soils into the rivers. It's supposed to be the start of the rainy season here in the rainforest, but there has been surprisingly little rain so far. That makes for a lot of dust in the air, and in houses or buildings by the dirt roads, kicked up by all the moto traffic.
One of the things I'm adjusting to is that in this environment, it's not always possible to work as efficiently as I'd like. My laptop computer has been having issues again (sometimes it boots and sometimes it doesn't) and the internet access is not always available. It's also been difficult at times to reach people for meetings. However, in spite of the discomforts and inconveniences, I like the simplicity here - the openness and neighborliness that is lacking in the harried and more impersonal, car-centric environments of the big cities, especially in the US.
written by  cjones on October 19, 2008 from Tarapoto, Peru

Roots of affliction
Started having a toothache about a week ago, so I visited a couple of dentists and today I'm going through the fourth day of a root canal treatment. Although I found a dentist who seems very capable, it's been an adventure especially with facilities and tools that are more primitive than those of the dentist offices in the US, or probably even in a bigger city like Lima.
This week I've been reflecting on the recent presidential election in the States. I voted absentee before I left for Peru in September, and I think that symbolically it is a great achievement for a black man to have been able to win the presidency - 145 years after the abolition of slavery and only 40 years after the end of legalized racial segregation.
Still the intersection of politics and religion continues to be disturbing. For example, I read that 3 out 4 for white evangelicals voted for one candidate, and the overwhelming majority of black evangelicals voted for the other. Can this be explained by racism? Or could it be that the more privileged class does not give as much importance to the concern for social justice reflected in the statements and positions of the candidates? African Americans have a history of oppression that could have prepared them to be more sensitive to systemic injustice, so possibly the black church is less blind in this area.
This is no great revelation, but I believe that politicians of every party are controlled far too much by powerful financial interests. I also believe that the public is expertly manipulated, and recall a good example of this described by Thomas Frank in a Bill Moyers interview I saw online several weeks ago.
In the interview, TF argued that "conservatives" can use a social or religious issue to advance their economic agenda and its attendant evils to which people may be blind. For example, it's no sacrifice for the economic principalities and powers that be to support candidates who take a conservative position on abortion laws as long as the candidates also support economic policies that favor the powers that be above everyone else. Thus because of a hot-button issue, many people will vote against their own economic well being. The other catch is that the politicians only need to speak correctly about the hot-button issue, and in fact do not or can not deliver on their words.
I've been reading an excellent book by Martin Luther King called "Strength to Love," which is a collection of his sermons in the sixties. He remarked that the church was the most segregated major institution in America at that time. Is this still the case?
Searched for translations of MLK's works into Spanish or Portuguese and haven't been able to find any except his "I Have a Dream" speech, which is unfortunately about the extent of what most people know about him. It seems that all of the translated Christian literature in Latin America I've seen so far is by best-selling white authors who may not be very outspoken about the injustices of the status quo socioeconomic system.
written by  cjones on November 6, 2008 from Tarapoto, Peru

Some photos
Lamas vista
Sauce tranquilo
Just 2 weeks left here in Tarapoto. Between my work with A_Rocha and frequent visits to the dentist, I haven't had time to visit many areas in the jungle outside of the city, and would like very much to see more. Still I wanted to post a few photos of the couple of short excursions I've taken since I've been here - to the towns named Lamas and Sauce (pronounced "Sowsay").
Presentation at the church
So far Jose and I have given 3 presentations in his church, attended by some of the church members and many others from the community. On Monday we have another presentation at one of the main high schools in the city. The topic of all of these talks is conservation or creation care from a biblical perspective, and the needs and opportunities for conservation that exist in Tarapoto and the surrounding areas. We've been strategizing with the local government about how A_Rocha can help motivate the high school students to become involved as volunteers in their conservation projects.
In addition I've been serving the existing conservation projects with my experience in Geographic Information Systems, providing some much appreciated free software consulting to the regional government and a couple of associated Peruvian conservation NGOs that have offices in the city.
Jose, Angela and Joel
Visiting the deforested areas
Crossing the Rio Huallaga
Parade in Tarapoto
written by  cjones on November 21, 2008 from Tarapoto, Peru

Chazuta
Chazuta, Peru
Chazuta and the Rio Huallaga
Site of the medicinal plant project
With Max and Gabriel
Visited the town of Chazuta, a beautiful but poor village a couple of hours away along a bad dirt road that follows the river valleys down into the lower Amazon. Accompanied by Irma, a nurse working in a_mission at a church in Tarapoto, who I met through another friend I know from last year who I just happened to see on the street a couple of days ago. Irma's cuñado (brother-in-law) is in charge of a medicinal plants project in Chazuta so I got the tour of the chacras (fields), plant nursery and laboratory there. It was interesting to compare with the project I visited a few months ago in Guatemala.
Laura, Alex and Nataly
Last weekend, I visited friends in Juanjui, where I stayed and worked last year. The weekend before, A_Rocha had taken its first group of teenagers from Juanjui to the Rio Abiseo National_Park. This is the park I visited as a guest of INRENA - the Peruvian natural resources department - when I was in Juanjui the last time. The A_Rocha trip was organized by my friend Alex and the first group was about 20 members of the church where Alex is the pastor. Arrived just in time to see the slide show of the trip and Alex's talk about it and about creation care on Saturday night.
written by  cjones on December 3, 2008 from Chazuta, Peru

Wrapping up
Today is my last day in Tarapoto this year and I've been blessed with these 2 months of working with and getting to know Jose and others in this jungle city. In the work of A_Rocha, Jose took the lead on the educational and inspiration programs with the church and the schools, but I was able to help make some contacts with various organizations and individuals who could help provide opportunities for education and service projects.
Software training session in Tarapoto
The other aspect of my work here has been technical assistance to the government agencies and other organizations involved in conservation. Last Thursday, I gave an all-day training session on the use of 3 free mapping programs and their relative advantages and disadvantages for the users here. Then this Tuesday I gave a presentation to a group of 3 people from the regional government and 5 others from conservation NGOs that work with the government on alternatives for sharing maps and map data over the internet. There was a lot of interest in this discussion and 4 of the 8 people came from different cities to attend.
I also developed a couple of programs to supplement and convert the data available in the regional government so it could be used with the public domain software.
At this stage, the goal of the fledgling group of A_Rocha in Tarapoto is not to manage our own conservation projects, but to assist the existing projects of the authorities here in the best ways that we are capable. As a pastor with experience working with teenagers in the high schools, Jose is well equipped to spread A_Rocha's message of the biblical calling for creation care and to motivate the kids to join in the local conservation projects. With my background in software and in the projects I worked on earlier this year, I found an opportunity to help with my technical experience.
written by  cjones on December 5, 2008 from Tarapoto, Peru

New stage
Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
Another rainy day in Rio and I'm at the computer making contacts and preparing for the next stage of my life, now that my financial resources for this journey are just about depleted. There is a lot of good work I could do but no funds to do it. In this fallen world, the economic system does not usually reward the work that is most needed and unfortunately often rewards the work that is most destructive - war profiteering and unregulated securities trading to name a couple of examples.
I'll be writing some grant proposals but this is a time-consuming process in which most attempts do not succeed regardless of the merits of the work proposed. In the meantime, I'll need to earn some income and return to the job market at what is now a particularly challenging time in economic history.
written by  cjones on December 16, 2008 from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Esperar
In both Spanish and Portuguese, "esperar" means both to wait and to hope. I heard today that the same is true in Hebrew. One word with both meanings.
And we know that in all things God works for the good of those who love him,
who have been called according to his purpose.
Romans 8:28
Be still before the LORD and wait patiently for him;
do not fret when men succeed in their ways,
when they carry out their wicked schemes.
Psalms 37:7
I wait for the LORD, my soul waits,
and in his word I put my hope.
My soul waits for the Lord
more than watchmen wait for the morning,
more than watchmen wait for the morning.
_Israel, put your hope in the LORD,
for with the LORD is unfailing love
and with him is full redemption.
written by  cjones on December 20, 2008 from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil