katja-horsch

Halloween, Boatrace and more kittens!
Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Two best mates!
Oli's best friend Nick was in Cambodia for 3 weeks and when we met, we visited Angkor Wat together, where Berti also found freedom and peace for once.
Berti was a beautiful green pigion, who was rescued before going into the soup-pot at the restaurant where I live.
sometimes I feel like living in a zoo!
There were plenty more, but I noticed it too late and so Vandy could only safe him.
this is Berti!
It was the night before I went to Siem Riep to meet Oli and his best mate Nick.
Berti travelled from one side to the other side of the country the next day!
I decided quickly to take Berti with me as the House is full of cats and dogs and I thought maybe Smileys guestHouse would look after it in future. So I took Berti in a carrier bag on the bus and during the bus stops, I took him to the toilet, let him out and give him water.
But Smileys didn't want him. So Oli and me spent a night with him in our room together.
Nick found out about a Bird-Sanctury in Angkor Wat, so we decided to go there and hand Berti over to them.
First we visited Bantey Srey, then the amazing underwater carvings at Spean-Kaball until we finally reached the gate of the animal centre.
Bantey -Srey Temple
To our amazement, it was a Centre for Conservation of Biodiversity and more a Rescue Centre for abused and/or abondent animals. They took Berti and after a few days, they e-mailed me that Berti had fully recovered and they could reliese him back into the forest. They also mentioned that eating this kind of bird was illegal.
this one was kept together with chickens and has a broken wing
this one is a very rare stork, an amazing creature
this one was kept as a doll and was dressed and had nailvarnish and stuff
It was a very happy day for me, seeing Olis best friend in real for the first time and spending time together, all the beautiful scenerie, Davys Birthday and Berti was in good hands, maybe that's why the Halloween party in the evening was a little exessive?
to a nice evening!
the sexy kittens arrived!
This one is a particularly attractive tom cat!
Party on in "Angkhor What???"
Scary!
Him!
Hey!
And him!
Oh Dominique, hold me I think I need to go home now...where is Oli???
Meanwhile in Stung Treng, Vandy and Rek-smey opened their own sandwich buisness. They sell infront of the house every day from 5-9 pm. It's rather convenient for me as I like to eat bread a lot! So for dinner I have now every evening outside a white sandwich with spring onion, cucumber and gimchy. That is a Cambodian pickle made from ginger, onion, papaya, garlic, salt, sugar and lemon. I love to sit there after work and see the sunset. It's beautiful.
Yes, this is my daily Riverview!
Vandys sandwich stand
the Stung Treng Dragon boat crew were busy practising
these are the two new puppys. One died the other day when it was hit by a moto
Stung Treng evening light
Tilda is having a little snooze on my lap
Rambo likes the sattelite chair as much as I do
time for a nap
you are growing so fast...
my little Rambo!
dinner with the new volunteers Ingran, Jan and Thea
Workwise we were kept busy with doing a Midterm review of our project, having an annual partnership review and of course writing endless reports about our progess and plans.
Mr. Narem and Mr. Maradeth from the RTC
in our VSO office
The mid term review of our project
the RTC director and David
our project donated for new posters in the classrooms
Sambath the translator and Carol
only 2 dots?
The boat race this year was very well organised and great fun!
This years VSO boat crew in orange!
Soklaing and Oli
John, me and Oli, all pumped up and ready to win!
Number 210 was our boat
what a glorious day for a boat race!
paddling to the starting line
we didn't win but we made it over the finishing line eventually
The afterparty was at Equinox, here with Sarah, Ingran and Dave
Dom, Rach, Wim, Abi, Stevi and Sarah
Rach and Oli hit the dancefloor
And this is the newest addition to the household! Born on the 22nd of November and no idea who the father is...
and here are the 5 new kittens!
Finally, Dave reached the popularity he always wanted. His picture is now at one of the wonders of the world!
These pictures are now officially at Angkor Wat!
about how to deal with rubbish in Siem Riep
written by  katja-horsch on December 8, 2010 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: Halloween, Boatrace and more kittens!

a volunteers life...
Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Volunteering overseas is great.
Apart from the homesickness and missing your loved ones and maybe missing out on important events back at home, it is for me the best time of my life.
It might be because I chose the right organisation (VSO) or because I chose to come to Cambodia. Whatever it is, it makes me very very happy every day.
a rainbow!
Now as time goes by very fast here, I experience the most extraordinary things and meet the most interesting people. I live and I can feel life and enjoy it to an extend, which I never felt before. I am very greatful to this mind-opening experience and I have learned a lot from it. With other words, I am dreading the day I am going home.
But fortunately I still have 6 months here before I travel back to Europe to find out, if I can cope or not.
Meanwhile, back in Stung Treng, Rambo and Tilda growing and growing closer to my heart...
maybe they are coming home with me?
my two boys
A local boy named Binyan started together with Rachel (VSO volunteer from Stung Treng), the first ever exercise classes in Stung Treng. Those classes are very popular all over the country. They are usually held at 5 am and 5 pm every day. I have seen them before in Kampong Cham and Phnom Penh, but even Kratie hasn't got them! Now, Stung Treng got a bit more modern because of that I would say. So far, I've managed to drag myself out of bed twice for the morning classes. But it mixed up my running patterns. So now I only go in the evenings at the weekends. It's great fun!
exercise class in Stung Treng
this is a local dish called: Njam Bay Chock - white noodle with green sauce and bananaflower
and another magnificent sunset over the Sekong river
afternoon light
Wat Luer
my road
Tom is going to a party
she's going with Papa, he will look after her at the party
the "restaurant baby"
And we had again our North-East volunteer meeting, this time combined with Ingrans housewarming party.
time to finish, no?
after our Stung Treng - Kratie Health meeting
the two neighbours Linda and Ingran
I hope Rek-smey had a little bit of fun at the barang party
the new german Stung Trengers Patrick, Josh and Caro
with Godfrey, Maria and Ingran
Chantra, Dani and Rek-smey
Mr. and Mrs. Dukes give their best
the germans in Cambodia!
We also started a guitar club in Stung Treng. After me, Carol and Ingran both got themselves also a guitar. Now we try to play regularly together. It's great fun.
The Stung Treng Guitar players Carol, Ingran and myself
my guitar
Last month, Oli and I went to the 4th annual Nursing and Midwifery Conference in Phnom Penh, where one of my teachers from the RTC gave a presentation. It was very exiting and he did well, although the conference was rather chaotic.
the official opening ceremony of the conference
Here we go, the Minister of Health
me and teacher Narem
The photographer was the best!
a mosque in the middle of Phnom Penh
Ja, ich habe auch mal wieder meinen Senf dazugegeben
the translator was funny...
Mrs. Sophany, Mr. Narem and myself at the Nursing and Midwifery Conference
David and Koehn knew a russian restaurant where we ate good food!
those pictures at Meta House made me feel homesick
In the evening, we went Lindy Hop Swing Dancing with Abi, Sarah and Ingran.
Because of the Waterfestival, we had a long weekend off, so Oli and me decided, to go to the beach.
I've made pretty horrible experiences with Shianouk ville, but nevertheless, Oli hadn't seen it.
So we went this time to Otres Beach. The quietest and most natural beach of all.
along Otres Beach
and now some pizza!!!
Our bungalow was just 15 metres from the beach away and simply lovely.
our beach hut, 15 meters away from the sea...
Yes, nearly paradise...
come in and snorkel with me!
Oli removes rubbish from the beach...
We spent 3 days there and had a wonderful time. The only thing that happend this time was that my sunglasses got stolen...
strange looking jelly-fish
VSO Cambodia makes us happy!
biking in Phnom Penh
and another phenomenal sunset infront of my house
Two weekends later, we went to Siem Riep to attend another conference, this time it had to do with Pro-Technical Work Groups for Health and the Annual Operational Plans.
We made the best of it.
for the big event, the streets were decorated
before the bike ride
To treat our sore muscles after the 30 km bike ride and the 10 km run the day afterwards, we chose our nest this time in the Terasse des Elephants.
this fountain was in our room, together with two bridges
on top of Terasse des Elephants
njam bay chenang!!!
fancy dinner at the poolside in Siem Riep?
The next day I really had to rush back, because we had a group of preceptors coming from Kampong Cham to do a Study tour in Stung Treng. We did the same thing several months before and now it was their turn. It was very successful again this time.
The Study tour group infront of the new Stung Treng Hospital
The director, Dr. Sovann and Mr. Narem
The RTC bus
The Study tour group from Kampong Cham infront of our RTC
The cat selling buisness doesn't go very well at the moment. Nobody wants a cat. If I would be offered, how could I say no to such cute fluff kitties?
3 weeks old kittens are just adoreable...
These are: Cuddles Shorttail and Hugsy Longtail
Sita sleeps at the bottom of my stairs
here is the proof, it's cat heaven!
Shortly after Srey-Niem gave birth, I called the vet and asked him to come with the contraceptive injection. Finally he came and Srey-Niem got the injection. It has to be repeated every 3 months.
Yes, and over christmas and New Year, Oli and I are going to South Africa to see Antje, John, Matilda and Sophia. Haven't seen John and the girls for 19 months now. It will be absolutely mindblowing...
So we can all look forward to a South Africa blog next time!
Lots of Love from your Katja!
written by  katja-horsch on December 9, 2010 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: a volunteers life...

South-Africa / Cape Town
Cape Town, South Africa
2 Weeks, my Oli and I spent in South Africa at the end of December. It was a family reunion with my sister and brother in law and my adorable two nieces as well as an interesting insight to Africas most popular tourist destination.
view onto Cape town city from the bottom of Table mountain
Cape Town (Afrikaans: Kaapstad) is the second-most populous city in South Africa, and the largest in land area, forming part of the City of Cape Town metropolitan municipality.
My first thoughts of going to Africa where, that I wanted to see it considering our future plans, to work there at some point. But what we saw and experienced was actually no poverty, no littered streets. It felt very cosmopolitan and nearly european.
mmmhh, where is the way to the pub?
Located on the shore of Table Bay, Cape Town was originally developed by the Dutch East India Company as a victualling (supply) station for Dutch ships sailing to Eastern Africa, India, and the Far East. Jan van Riebeeck's arrival on 6 April 1652 established the first permanent European settlement in South Africa. Cape Town quickly outgrew its original purpose as the first European outpost at the Castle of Good Hope, becoming the economic and cultural hub of the Cape Colony. Until the Witwatersrand Gold Rush and the development of Johannesburg, Cape Town was the largest city in South Africa.
We've stayed with Antje and John and the girls in John's grandmothers house which was absolutely beautiful and so relaxing.
This is in the stunning garden.
... and this too!
That was ideal. It was based a little outside Cape Town City Centre, in Constantia, a suburban area. We had nearly all meals in that garden when the weather allowed it.
and now a cup of Roibush tee...
and everybody is asking, where are your socks, Oli?
Hallo Oma und Opa!
We had mostly warm sunny weather, but compared to Cambodian weather, it was changing every day. It was a nice change actually, although I still very much prefer the warmth.
Capetown is the provincial capital and primate city of the Western Cape, as well as the legislative capital of South Africa.
Today it is one of the most multicultural cities in the world, reflecting its role as a major destination for immigrants and expatriates to South Africa. As of 2007 the city had an estimated population of 3.5 million.
at the "Cape to Cuba" Restaurant in Kalk Bay
The city is famous for its harbour as well as its natural setting in the Cape floral kingdom, including such well-known landmarks as Table Mountain and Cape Point. It is hailed as one of the most beautiful cities in the world as officially recognised by Forbes. National Geographic has also listed Cape Town as one of the most iconic cities on the planet and "Places of a Lifetime".
sorry, forgot the name of this beach, but it was stunning!
And we've seen it all.
with the Table Mountain in the background
we're going to the beach!
the cold of the water was cutting into my feet
picknick with the sunset
real surfers!
unfortunately, also this moment didn't last forever
I think we must have visited all of Cape Town's beaches, which are popular with local residents. Due to the city's unique geography, it is possible to visit several different beaches in the same day, each with a different setting and atmosphere. Though the Cape's water ranges from cold to mild, the difference between the two sides of the city is dramatic. But still, the water on both sides was freezing!
sorry, name forgotten, but it was beautiful!
that sun was hot!
yes, definetely a dolphin man!
Both coasts are equally popular, although the beaches in affluent Clifton and elsewhere on the Atlantic Coast are better developed with restaurants and cafés, with a particularly vibrant strip of restaurants and bars accessible to the beach at Camps Bay.
We were very active, no problem when you are with John, and they showed us the most amazing places.
I can't decide who's cuter...
After a lovely morning spending time walking and talking, they saluted us off from the waterfront to take the boat to Robben Island, which is 10-kilometeres from the city. Here, future President of South Africa and Nobel Laureate Nelson Mandela and future South African President Kgalema Motlanthe, alongside many other political prisoners, spent decades imprisoned during the apartheid era. Including current South African President Jacob Zuma who was imprisoned there for ten years.
Nelson Mandela's cell
In one of the most famous moments marking the end of apartheid, Nelson Mandela made his first public speech in decades on 11 February 1990 from the balcony of Cape Town City Hall hours after being released. His speech heralded the beginning of a new era for the country, and the first democratic election was held four years later, on 27 April 1994.
Oh we had lots of fun with the kids!
baking Olis favourite chocolate cake..
pulling the "sleigh" down the hill and pretend that their is snow..
Of course South-Africa is also very famous for their wines!There are hundreds of different wines, all produced in different locations of the winelands. We visited two of them. One was Constantia and the other one was in Stellenbosch.
The day in Stellenbosch was very special,because one of Johns friend took us all and drove us around. First of all we went to a bird rescue centre where we also saw cheetahs.
Then we had a marvellous picknick at a river nearby one of the wine yards.
John and the kids cool down in the nearby river.
We had to do a wine tasting to compare with the wine from Constantia.
at the end, we bought a bottle of delicious Delheim Rose wine
together with Etienne, Sally and Francois.
in the morning, we decorated our christmas tree
Bescherung war am naechsten Morgen
We had a fantastic day on the 24th of December, which is our german christmas. Firstly, we went to see the Cape Fur Seal colonies on Seal and Duiker Islands.
can you see the seal already?
all of them made a very happy impression
Then we picknicked for lunch
what a nice picknick spot this is!
and then went on to see Cape Point.
Cape Point is recognised as the dramatic headland at the end of the Cape Peninsula. We drove along Chapman's Peak Drive, a narrow road that links Noordhoek with Hout Bay, for the views of the Atlantic Ocean and nearby mountains. It was beautiful. We stopped at another beach,
before we finally reached the Cape of Good Hope.
ostriches along the coast
hey, there is a Baboon in the way!
There, we enjoyed the sunset in beautiful surrounding.
Someone was paricularly keen on the Pringels...
English Christmas Day we spent with Johns family at Betsy's Bay.
It was a lovely relaxed slightly tipsy day.
Boulders Beach near Simon's Town is known for its colony of African penguins. I think going there was one of my defenite highlights.
Finally, Antji and me had also some time together and we spent it wisely.
Then we split up for the last 3 days. Antji and John wanted it more rural for New Years Eve while me and Oli stayed and discovered more in Cape Town City.
The city has several notable cultural attractions.
The Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, built on top of part of the docks of the Port of Cape Town, is the city's most visited tourist attraction.
It is also one of the city's most popular shopping venues, with several hundred shops and the Two Oceans Aquarium.
Nobel Square in the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront features statues of South Africa's four Nobel Peace Prize winners - Albert Luthuli, Desmond Tutu, F. W. de Klerk and Nelson Mandela.
Since 1994, the city has struggled with problems such as HIV/AIDS, tuberculosis, a surge in violent drug-related crime and more recent xenophobic violence. At the same time, the economy has surged to unprecedented levels due to the boom in the tourism and the real estate industries.
In the 1948 national elections, the National Party won on a platform of apartheid (racial segregation) under the slogan of "swart gevaar". This led to the Group Areas Act, which classified all areas according to race. Formerly multi-racial suburbs of Cape Town were either purged of unlawful residents or demolished. The most infamous example of this in Cape Town was District Six. After it was declared a whites-only region in 1965, all housing there was demolished and over 60,000 residents were forcibly removed.
Many of these residents were relocated to the Cape Flats and Lavender Hill. Under apartheid, the Cape was considered a "Coloured labour preference area", to the exclusion of "Bantus", i.e. blacks. We visited the District Six museum, which was very interesting and very well done.
Cape Town is noted for its architectural heritage, with the highest density of Cape Dutch style buildings in the world. Cape Dutch style, which combines the architectural traditions of the Netherlands, Germany, France and Indonesia, is most visible in Constantia, the old government buildings in the Central Business District, and along Long Street.
Very unfortunately, the Green-Point Stadium was closed that day...
people from SA call this cloud "Table cloth", laying on the Table Mountain
We found an amazing Ethiopian Restaurant which was a great experience to eat there.
it looks strange but it tasted delicious!
we had a coffee ceremony with popcorn!
One day we even took the train into town which was exiting. Before that, we had breakfast at the lovely Olimpia Cafe at Kalk Bay.
This beach is very popular and found on many postcards. It's St. James Beach
This man claimed to have 25 kg of eggs on his head. And he had a telephone...
But I tryed to call home and it didn't work. Instead he wanted money for the picture we took of him.
I really wanted to see some Whales and do a bungee jump, but both were not possible at the time. Southern Right Whales and Humpback Whales are seen off the coast during the breeding season (August to November) and Bryde's Whales and Killer Whale can be seen any time of the year.
Heaviside's dolphins are endemic to the area and can be seen from the coast north of Cape Town; Dusky dolphins live along the same coast and can occasionally be seen from the ferry to Robben Island and I have seen them at least from the distance.
Oli and John climbed up Table Mountain and had a great view. We wanted to meet them on top but the Cable Car wasn't going because of strong winds. We tryed it another time but it was again too windy.
we had a nice picknick though at the bottom of table mountain
So I haven't made it up the Table Mountain, but I don't mind. I had a fantastic time and had amazing new experiences. And that was it. Happy New Year 2011!!!!!!
at the airport in Johannesburg
written by  katja-horsch on January 4, 2011 from Cape Town, South Africa
from the travel blog: South-Africa / Cape Town

meeting in PP
Phnom Penh, Cambodia
On Monday, I met Holly and Joelle at 7 am at the market and we had breakfast together, it’s called Ban som and it is like a sweet chilli dish with yummy soft thick noodles and something else I couldn’t identify so far. Holly is another volunteer, who works in Livelyhoods but was in PP for the last month, having had holiday and visitors and a workshop to prepare. She is 23 I think and I hope to know her a bit better with the time.
Then Channa and me met at 7:30 at the bank to get our card to use the ATM machine. When I received it, they asked me if I know how to use it. Well, I did.
sunset over the mekong
I then went to work and found myself in the middle of 10 RTC teachers, all male. Because the office has moved, we are now in the big meeting room, forming an U-shape with our desks. Facing each other. On the other side I have the feeling it is better for communication and getting to know each other. This is only temporary until we move into the new building, which they build on for nearly 2 years already.
In our old office they just knock the walls down and make another classroom out of it.
In the afternoon I developed an annual Refresher booklet for Preceptors. This was an idea to decrease costs for another workshop to be held for all 40 preceptors who had already training. It now must be approved by the RTC, VSO and Kadoorie and the MoH. So it can take ages until being used properly.
I also helped translating some nursing knowledge into Khmei language.
a lizard running away from me
In the evening I met a rather grumpy guy from Oxford!. It felt good to talk about good old Oxi and places in and around England.
But I realised also, that talking about going clubbing and all that, I don’t miss it. Thinking about wearing high heels feels somehow abstract to me now. It just doesn’t fit to being here. My world are flip flops now and flat sandals. If I think how many shoes I have at home and handbags and clothes in general, and how much I have here and I live fine. Finally I realize how little I actually need and how unimportant certain things are, which just cost money. I can see how being here will have a big influence in my live.
I said that before I came and I am totally aware of it, and at the end it is up to me what I do with it, but I am glad to have the opportunity of new ways of thinking and being.
On Wednesday, I joined in the morning the same English class then I’ve joint already once last week. I could see a change already. They were all quiet and tried to listen to me. I try to talk to them as interactive as possible and wrote every more or less uncommon word onto the whiteboard. I also tried to motivate them again to become a very good nurse and learn as much as possible about nursing in order to give the best care they can. I think that they understand the importance of English now as well, because this time even the hip boys at the back were listening and asking questions. I really liked it though.
In my lunchbreak I went to Joelle’s place and then we had lunch together at their local restaurant.
eating eel soup for lunch
Also Holly and her friend ( who visits her at the moment), were there. We had Eel-soup.
mmhh, eel soup
Yes the fish. It was nice actually.
Then I had a quick shower and back to work. Then a clinical instructor, Narem is his name asked me, if I could show him how we do wound sutures in England. Well, me as the wound sewing expert ( never did some in my whole life) improvised. Due to having had theatre experiences and surgical patient care, I know how they have to look. So we walked straight into a 3rd year student class and there I stood, in the front of the class, with the dummy on the bed, next to me a little table with some instruments, 3 teachers also, keen to know how we do it in England.
So I introduced myself first and then talked about pre procedure care and then prepared my tray. With also 30 students around me I stood in the afternoon sun, putting my sterile gloves on and started sewing some foam ages. When I did the 2 different styles of sewing I believed were ok, one of the Instructors asked me to show them another one. I couldn’t, so one instructor came and did a faboulus suture. He then said loudly: that’s how we do it in Cambodia. Everybody laughed loud. Well, I couldn’t deny that that was far better then my style ( but at the end of the day it’s all the same), but I agreed with him and encouraged to keep their style.
It wouldn’t have been so bad, if Narem wouldn’t have come to me afterwards, giving me a guideline about performing wound suture.
But it was real fun.
I have the feeling, sitting together in this big room broke the ice. Everybody greets me now and talks to me. Even two others asked me already some translating questions.
Later we have a meeting. Clinical instructors with VSO team. Will do a brainstorm session about our work relationship.
I like teaching. In England I was always very unsure and felt not very confident, but here I have the feeling, I will gain lots of teaching experience and confidence. Maybe I will lead my nursing career into a different direction. We’ll see. But I really like it so far.
The meeting with some of the teachers ( the same as clinical instructors) went well. I could really see that some are really interested and want to improve, others are not bothered at all. I tried to make them understand that I only have 2 years time and that I would apprichiate teamwork. They would like to give feedback to them and teach them new methods. I said that I’d like to sit in the class when they give a lesson to the students, so that I can give them afterwards individual feedback. Some liked it, some refused it. And that are the ones who are afraid of not being good enough. I reasured them that I would only sit and watch, I would’t even understand what they are saying in Khmei. But I think, even with only doing that, I can see what level of teaching the teacher is.
They also want me to teach them English language. Because some of them can’t speak at all, some speak very good, I’ll devide them into 2 groups and who doesn’t attend for 3 times without apologies is out.
I need to get some advise on that from somebody, because I never taught anybody any language. But somehow I am looking forward to that and I am sure it is possible.
In the evening we met and had "Ban Chow".
omlette filled with soy beans and meat, to be eaten with leafs
the traditional "ban chow" round
Thursday morning, Hor and me went to PP at 7:00 am by bus. Before I went to the busstation, I gave my Papaya to Helen, she wants to make some Papaya-Pineapple jam out of it and then to the bank. Still no money from VSO, and I have run out of money by now.
The busride was very long. At the end we were on the road for 9 hours. Khmei people love Karaoke, and all the way it was really loud Karaoke musik on the screen or they showed bloody war movies. Meanwhile the aircondition is really cold and blows very strongly.
We also overrolled a dog puppy. I saw it. It brought tears into my eyes. The busdriver was sad too. So many animals on the road. It is a constant horn noise to hear to make the way free.
Then after 5 hours, the bus made a horrible noise and somebody said, the wheel is broken. What amazed me was, that the busdriver was able to fix it in 25 minutes. It was the Keilriemen (don’t know the English word), that was broken.
We also stopped 3 times on the way and ate something. So I think, I finally had the sweet sticky rice in a bamboo stick, Shane was talking about. Got it in Kratie.
In PP, Hor introduced me to his family and his geogous baby daughter. I then went to the VSO office and met a few volunteers there. We went out for dinner and I had chips with ketchup. That was good. In that restaurant, I saw an old guy, sitting next to a beautiful khmei girl. She looked not older then 15. And suddently it became reality again that PP is also a city of sex tourism. I felt really sorry for that girl. Apparently, they get $20 for the act and $50, when she stays overnight. It makes me sad.
On Friday, we had the meeting and I think it was good. The director was on time and in a good mood. He talked openly and agreed to a few things. When he went at lunchtime, Daniel, Hor and me continued with project revision all afternoon until the evening. Hor is just so good in what he’s doing.
On Saturday, I mainly relaxed. Forgot to take my camera, so no pictures available.
I did all my shopping in two different supermarkets and even got fairy- lights. There are many people around in the VSO office at the moment due to different workshops.
Sunday, the Mini-van picked me up at 4:30. Hor and his wife were in there as well. Pleasant trip, it only took 7 hours.
This afternoon I’m going to prepare for preceptor supervision trip tomorrow. We’ll go most likley at 9 am, so not too bad. I am really looking forward to see Ratanakiri.
If you want to send something, then maybe black and herbal tea.
More from Ratanakiri. Am quite exhausted now. Hugs and Kisses to all of you!
cute doggy
written by  katja-horsch on June 14, 2009 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: being here my second month now

Ho Chi Minh City and the end of my VSO placement in Stung Treng
this picture is made out of eggshells
As my last weeks as a VSO volunteer passed by, I lived and enjoyed life intensively in Stung Treng and elsewhere.
Oli was very keen to visit the South of Vietnam and especially the capital - Ho Chi Minh City or as they call it unofficially: Saigon.
propaganda posters everywhere for forthcoming elections
We decided to travel by boat this time and it was a pleasant change to a sweaty and noisy bus trip.
We did all the passport business on the River and stayed in a beautiful little village called Chau Dok in a "floating hotel" for one night.
typical vietnamese transport option on the water
can you spot the cat?
The next day we visited an ancient temple on the way to Saigon.
in the snake cave
a chinese budda picture
an unusal tiger infront of the temple compound
In Ho Chi Minh City, we stayed for 2 nights and did sightseeing mainly by walking.
familiar names...
inside the national art gallery
a beautiful building
town hall
we witnessed a lot of weddings that day
the vietnamese "Notre Dame"
a vietnames seller tries to persuade to buy something
another ancient temple
Oli got a picture promised by this artist for his new children ward in Thmar Pouk
the national art gallery
filtered vietnamese coffee and some other welcoming refreshments
a painting hanging in the art gallery
the opera house
The next day, we visited the 'famous' Cu Chi Tunnels, a 75-mile-long underground maze where thousands of fighters and villagers could hide during the Vietnamese war in 1968.
the Cu Chi Tunnels
The tunnels were used by Viet Cong guerrillas as hiding spots during combat, as well as serving as communication and supply routes, hospitals, food and weapon caches and living quarters for numerous guerrilla fighters. The tunnel systems were of great importance to the Viet Cong in their resistance to American forces, through which they secured American withdrawal from Vietnam and ultimate military success.
We've also seen all sorts of horrible gadgets to trap the Americans.
you can't see it in the grass when it's closed
I don't want to fall into this trap!
Oli was very brave
I didn't quiete make it
I had a panic attack while crawling through the deep down tight tunnels and had to exit sooner. Oli managed to crawl through the darkness the full 100 meters.
We also visited the very interesting war museum.
war museum in HCMC
Agent Orange Warning flag
after Agent Orange was used
When we were walking around the city, the fact that I suddenly commented that it looks really nice in Bangkok made me realize that we were traveling a lot recently and that everything became to look the same.
nice juice in Vietnam
After our visit I have certainly learned a lot about the historical drama that happend also especially in South Vietnam and I have a lot of respect towards the Vietnamese people.
Back in Phnom Penh, I met with my lovely friend Sareth and we had lunch together. She is a qualified nurse now (training in Stung Treng RTC) and studies Midwifery now in PP. I am very happy about this and can only encourage and support her.
with Sareth and her friend Sityl - having lunch
Ratha, our VSO tuk tuk driver and office guard
happy painting - happy people
Back in Stung Treng, I finished my work in the Regional Training Centre and did one last event with the help of Angela and Carol, we gave some training on donated equipment to the Midwife teachers. We found this material last year sitting in their boxes in this dirty,dusty room and asked why it was not used. I am sure this happens all over Cambodia. The answer was that the teachers didn't know how to use it. A questionable answer. If we wouldn't have come back to it the equipment would still be unused today. So we cleaned the room, took out expensive modern equipment and put it on shelves (which was another act to get some) and got familiar with it to provide training for the teachers. It all worked out very well and I was satisfied when I left.
strong team
equipment training in the RTC
Angela knows what she's doing
Channa obviously enjoyed this session
It felt very weird leaving the RTC but it was also a relief. After all, I've spent two years there but all didn't work out as I planned it without being my fault of course : )
My director Mr. Tek Leng Sou gives me my leaving present
Another highlight before I moved away was our dressing up morning.
All Stung Treng volunteers met to have heavy make up and glitzy dresses.
2 hours make-up session beforehand...
...until we got this result!
having difficulties Wendy?
Carol
Maria and Ingran
with Wendy and Angela
Ferdi, Roy and Chris
with Carol
with Maria
Angela had a beautiful gown on
getting ready for the ladys group photo
David, a future VSO volunteer?
with Carol and Lin
the Stung Treng Ladies!
I will miss you Stung Treng, my trusted volunteer friends and family. I couldn't have done it all without you: Helen who let me stay with her at the beginning in 2009 when I first arrived and who gently introduced me into the Khmer world, Holli who I could talk to about everything and who I became so close with, Evic who gave me this huge teddy bear when I felt so homesick 2 years ago, Delia who gave me great comfort and confidence, Louisa, Carol my great friend, sister and mother, Linda who gave me a lot of love and challenged me too, Maria and Ferdi who both made me love the Philippines again, Ingran who became a great friend, Rachel and Anthony who are an incredible couple and lovely people, Jan and Thea who I admire for their strong will and passion, Angela and Chris who enjoy the Khmer way as much as I do and Wendy who I could rely on. Thank you all for being there for me. I will miss you! I hope very much we all keep in touch!!!
new lights on the bridge
sunset opposite my house
a lovely view from Sekong Bridge
my favourite view - Stung Treng in the afternoon sun with my house on the right
My leaving do was at my house but I felt rather sad so it didn't develop into a huge party. I asked everyone to bring some food and I prepared a slide show with lots of pictures which I then showed on sheet hanging on the wall via LCD. It was lovely though.
a variety of delicious food, produced by us
the last party at my house in Stung Treng
Carol my dearest, I miss you every day!
oh Lin, missing you!
amazing Jan and Thea, farewell!
Maria, I will miss you!
bye bye Roy!
Wendy, Angela and Chris, I wish you a wonderful and rewarding time in ST
good old Ferd, I will miss you
my good bye present - love it!
my Vandy and Rek-smey
Not enough party. As part of VolCom (Volunteer Committee for Cambodia) I was one of the organizers for a volunteer party in order to celebrate 20 years of VSO in Cambodia. My favourite job. So Ingran, Eileen and myself organized a VSO party on a boat in Phnom Penh on the Mekong river. A 4 hour party with free beer and snacks. Of course it had an entry fee. This evening was also the last one for me and Oli before we flew the next day to the UK.
We all had a ball!
welcome on board!
lets get this pary started!
Dommi, Wendy and Clare having fun
Gilly, Sam and Abi, the Kratie volunteers
Ella, Carol and Chris
someone has fun!
Linda and Anna are batch mates
I am going to see Ingran back in England soon
2 VSO midwifes talk about what?
Party animals on the boat!
Stung Treng housemates
Group photo!
It was very hot...
DJ Ingran says his last few words...
This is what 4 hours party on the boat do to you!
20 years VSO in Cambodia! Happy birthday!
hungry volunteers waiting for the after party falafel
Stung Treng rules!
Yes and this was my last time as an official VSO volunteer. I'm out now. Had an exit interview and have been 'discharged'.
After our holiday in Europe I will back and work as a 'non-VSO'- volunteer
in rural Thmar Pouk in Olis hospital for another 7 weeks. Looking forward to that.
The next blog will be all about England, Scotland, Germany and Denmark. See you soon! Your Katja.
written by  katja-horsch on July 3, 2011 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: Ho Chi Minh City and the end of my VSO placement in Stung Treng

Holiday in the first world
London, United Kingdom
2 years ago I landed in Cambodia to share my skills and to change lives. The time in Cambodia has certainly changed my life miraculously and I think I have gained new life long experiences and friends. I completed my work placement with VSO before I went.
Our holiday to the UK after those 2 years was to join 2 family weddings we were invited to and to see how it feels again to be in the 1st world.
We started from Phnom Penh and flew via Bangkok to London where we stayed with Oli's good friends Alison and Ben for a couple of nights.
Oli and Athlet Ben after their 10 km morning run
with Alison
at the playground
a well fed cat
rainy and cold...
Ben looked very smart that morning (here with my Cambodian belongings from 2 years on his back)
We had a lovely time. Then we went back to central London and dumped our luggage at Oli's brothers house to travel with lighter luggage up to Scotland the next day.
Louis waits patient for attention
London double decker bus
feed the desire...
.
After we arrived in Edinbourgh by train, we stayed at Oli's friend Elsbeth for a few days. Meanwhile we explored Oli's old hometown.
the famous castle in Edinbourgh
Edinbourgh
landed in Edinbourgh
Oli enjoyed very much his maccaroni cheese and chips
this pub curry was not as good as ours
lovely smell
in this charity shop we bought our hats, gloves and scarfes
they could really put the radiator on in here...
having a rest from climbing up Arthur's seat
windy up here!
good view
this scottish whiskey was actually really tasty
veggi haggis, the scottish delight. I liked it.
Then we went with Oli's parents up to Glasgow to Loch Lohmond. Oli's cousin Bryony got married the next day. It was the most perfect day for a wedding and the most beautiful location.
could saying 'yes' be nicer anywhere else?
with the bride, Olis cousin Bryony
the blokes with their kilts
please don't give me a Glasgow kiss!
what a perfect day
at midnight at Loch Lohmond
The next day we drove down with Oli's parents towards his proper hometown Delph.
we visited a beautiful english heritage site on the way back from Scotland
very english...
Cheers with Gewuerztraminer at the Shipps house
Olis mum arranged this exhibition
at a local art exhibition
we've seen a few 'open gardens'
Olis parents and his aunt
with Jenny, David and Oli
beautiful red poppies on the way
Olis 'local' pub in Delph
this is where Oli comes from
bah bah!
what a beautiful horse
strolling along the yorkshire fields
nice green grass
After a few days in beautiful Yorkshire, we went back to London where Oli arranged for some friends to see us at his brothers house.
in Jonny and Sashas garden
VSO reunion in London with Jen, Charlotte and Holli
Jonny baked Pizza for all!
Holli came to London to see us!
The next day I arrived in Oxford. It was lovely coming back!
das Oxforder Abholkomitee
so suess!
entzueckend!
and John cooked especially Pad-Thai for dinner
we're becoming housemates soon again!
at the 'rusty bicycle' pub
There Í had time to sort out my new living space and I started the process on my midwifery training at Brookes University.
The next day, we all flew to Germany to the next wedding.
3 pinkies going to Germany!
pre-wedding exitement
infront of Mathia and Andreas flat
Antji
side streets in Lueneburg
Lueneburgs Town Hall
St. Nicolai Church
It was Mathias and Andreas wedding in beautiful Lueneburg. We had such a wonderful time!
do you know the feeling when you sometimes want to kill somebody?
waiting for the big moment
this little tile got fixed on top of the tower where they got married
the amazing wedding cake
the lovely happy couple Matzi und seine Andrea
the saladbar is this way...
with Mami and Rudolf and the next married couple Roland and Kathleen
Sightseeing in Lueneburg oder auch, den Sekt ablaufen gehen
a lovely fountain
Kone- Kmeing Tilda
Puh Opa
Bong Oli
and Bong-srey Katja
we danced a lot
Antje, Mami and I
After the wedding we drove back towards my hometown but on the way we stayed in Neu Sammit and camped with my friends for a few days. We had such a lovely time and unfortunately I left my camera in the car so I don't have any pictures.
Back in my hometown Guestrow, I showed Oli where I was from.
wild poppies and camomile everywhere at this time of the year
a german 'dragon boat'
Mamis tolle Topfplanzen
I met someone in Cambodia who tried twice already to visit this sculpture but the church was always closed...
'Der schwebende Engel' from Ernst Barlach in the Dom church
and this is our town hall
and this is our market area
at the Gliener See, my childhood playground
playing with the girls the stick game
our castle in Guestrow
what wonderful smell!
me and my Dad in the Lavender garden
We also met up with Doerti and Marcus.
Prost und auf ein baldiges Wiedersehen!
ok, who wins is allowed to pay the dinner bill
I tried so hard!
Oh I am such a looser...
with my Doerti
After a few days in Guestrow, we took the ferry and spend the weekend with Oli's friends in Copenhagen, Danmark.
BBQ in Simon and Pippas garden
Yippie! A Trampolin!
this is where Simon jumps into the baltic sea, every morning!
Sunset over Copenhagen
with the bus into the city
inside the marble church
Copenhagens opera house
a rather posh boat
the mermaid elephant in Copenhagen
Oli and Preah
from a poster exhibition in Copenhagen
why not having a slice of carrot cake and a cappucino?
digesting the expensive meal...
after a long evening..
living within the commune
so this is where the hippie commune lives?
who is more attractive...?
Make love - not war
Christiania was full of spray-art
our ferry which brought us from Rostock to Danmark in less then 2 hours
Back in Guestrow, we picked up the girls a few days later and flew back to England.
aye aye captains!
our little boat trip on the Inselsee in Guestrow
Tilda und Sophia am Inselsee
waiting in Buetzow for the train to take us to Hamburg Hbf
What a nice way to wake up...
ueber den Wolken...
Goodbye London, see you again in 2 months
We had a fantastic 4 weeks in Europe but it was also really nice coming home. You can read here why: (a short article for the NSJ magazine)
Going home… to Cambodia
Returning to Europe in June after 2 years volunteering in Cambodia was a big deal.
Leaving work was not so sad because I felt ready to go. But saying goodbye to beloved volunteer friends who had become so close was really tough.
Even harder was leaving Cambodian friends and family, knowing that they will probably never leave their surroundings because they are too poor – or maybe just too fearful. I always feel guilty that I am from one of the richest countries in the world. In their eyes I am rich and I agree.
Having taken the final tuktuk ride to Phnom Penh airport I was soon transported to another world – by watching 5 films back to back on the plane!
Suddenly we had landed in London. At first it didn’t seem so different – just another airport – but then we stepped out into Marks & Spencers and Costas. And all those white people – all dressed in suits like they’re going to a wedding! And the cold…
Our first coach ride was to Luton, to be picked up by a friend. The uniformed driver introduced himself before carefully stowing our luggage. We sat in a velvety seat with acres of legroom! Just as we set off (bang on time) the driver said “Please fasten your seatbelts”, which had us in fits of giggles. Driving into the dusk, it felt so smooth and safe like still being on a plane and it was lovely and quiet, so relaxing…
The landscape was so different. Of course no palm trees or rice fields, no cows or dogs on the road. Instead, motorway and big electricity masts covered the grass fields we passed.
And it was like this throughout the whole trip: relaxing and smooth, but cold and expensive – suddenly I was definitely not rich anymore! In Scotland everyone else enjoyed the summer whilst we headed to the nearest charity shop to snap up their gloves, hats and scarves! We did have great fun speaking our ‘secret language’ though.
But I had this constant rice craving. Every time we saw a Thai restaurant, my heart bet faster and we had to go in. I sometimes cooked rice myself but it didn’t taste the same – it wasn’t the slightly sticky rice that you can eat in Cambodia.
Instead I had to eat bread, cheese and cake and of course we were especially spoiled in Yorkshire with pies and in Denmark with smoerebroed. My stomach didn’t like it and I suffered. Plus everything tasted very bland and boring. And my stepfather pointed out how bad my table manners had become!
After a few weeks in Europe I was also really missing the colours of Cambodia. And the people, the landscape, the heat. We had a great time with all our friends and family, but it was so good to know that I could return one more time to Cambodia.
On the plane back I promised myself I would really enjoy every moment that I have left here. I felt happy and relaxed – I was coming home!
written by  katja-horsch on July 10, 2011 from London, United Kingdom
from the travel blog: Holiday in the first world

16.09.09
Cycling to work along the river is really nice. Usually in the morning I see first the elderly lady who sits in her little shop just next to my house. She can’t speak a word English but we smile at each other and she is very friendly when I buy something there. Then I wave to Vandy who serves breakfast with her daughters in her little restaurant. Then usually a disabled boy waits for me, sitting on a wooden bench, looking out for me and giving me a really big smile. He wears a mustage, and I noticed that all impaired people wear that here. It is like a recognition mark. Then further to the RTC are little shops and the children shout really loud: Hello! to me.
I can hear the sound of bells which are around the cows necks and a more wooden sound from the water buffalos, who wear like a bamboo bell.
Usually, people who are poor cycle. If you have some money, you drive at least a moto. Now they got used to me cycling, but at the beginning, I was asked many times, where my moto was.
Today I wore a skirt, it wasn’t a long one but over my knees, and everybody was staring at me.
Nary, please notice the print on her t-shirt!
Nary and me, sometimes my only student
The last English class with the rather good speaking bunch of teachers was really fun.
I prepared a short amusing story for them where they had to guess the last line of the story and a game. Well, you know that game where you have to pick a famous person everybody knows and then you write that name down on a little note and stick it on each others forehead. Then the person has to ask questions and the others are only allowed to answer with yes and no. So we were 5 people altogether and the funny thing was at the end, that instead of having 5 different famous persons at the end, we had 3 Christiano Ronaldos and 2 Britney Spears. During the game I just couldn’t stop laughing.
another one in my collection for 'weird creatures in and around my house'
In preparation for our trip to PP, the girls sleep for one night at my place so that we can go together on Friday morning to the Bus station. Also they escape one more night in the crowded RTC student accommodation. So I had to get some more pillows from Delia and another bed sheet. She is also exited for us and gave me $10 to buy a meal for all of us once we are there. Bless her. She is so thoughtful and has such a big warm heart.
Apparently, hair loss is a common complaint of female volunteers, whether they are taking antimalarial drugs or not. Usually it is hard to identify a specific cause, and it may due to the change in environment, a new diet, general stress, lack of sleep and changes in the menstrual cycle. Some volunteers don’t get their period for months. For myself the only change I can think of is the new diet I am having. I am eating really only basic food, mainly rice and noodles, very little bread and if then it’s made out of coconut I think, I have no butter, no cheese, no chocolate, only a little bit of milk in the morning with my tea. Otherwise I have mainly fresh vegetables I fry and fresh fruit of course. Especially ripe papaya. Most of the European food is just not available in ST. But when I go to PP, I’ll buy me some cheese. I am craving for it, really.
If I think of what I ate in England, baked beans, fatty sausages, lots of cheese with buttered good brown Botley bread, chips and kebabs, frighed mars bars and stews and I drank much more alcohol then I do here. Sometimes I feel a craving coming up and then I buy for myself a box of Pringles. They are available here. Sometimes that is my dinner. Then I have to think of Doerti and our ‘Chips Abende vorm Fernseher’.
28.09.09
Oh, we had such an amazing time. So the girls and me got a moto dop to the bus station on Friday morning and took the bus to PP. Of course the bus broke down for 2 hours on the way, but finally after nearly 10 hours, we made it. On the way we were nibbling Cambodian sushi and I had my first fright beetles which weren’t so bad.
In PP, we went to the VSO Programme office and made ourselves comfortable. It was late already and we cooked something and then Sareth and Srey-mom wanted to hit the nightlife. Parim had a headache and wanted to stay in. So the rest of us visited two clubs fairly early (for nightlife), but I introduced them to Tequila ( they had a quarter, Cambodians usually don’t drink), and they were first time in proper, real night clubs. They were staring at those girls who did wear tight minidresses and high heels.
On Saturday morning, we went with the tuk-tuk for 2 hours outside PP to see Parim’s mum, who visited her sister. Because of the Phchum Ben season, we went to a pagoda.
( Bonn Dak Ben and Bonn Phchum Ben - It’s also called the Spirit Commemoration festival which is held for the spirit of the dead, Bonn Dak Ben- the offering of food to the Buddhist monks, lasts for 15 days. The full moon is called Bonn Phchum Ben, means the collection of the beans (offering). During the celebration, if the departed souls do not find their families making offering at a Wat ( Pagoda), it is believed that the souls are cursed and will bother the descendants through out the year.)
So I thought we would go into a Pagoda, but suddenly there was the most impressive stone temple, I’ve ever seen. A little bit like the Ankor wat temple, only in mini size. Inside was a Guru with long black hair and bright red lips, elevated on pillows, praying. In front of him a group of people, deeply praying. So we also sat down and I basically did what the others did. Folding my hands and from time to time touching the floor with my hands for three times. This temple inside, it wasn’t very big, but it was full of Buddha statues and giant pictures of himself in glorious costumes. I felt like being in a different world.
After half an hour or so, my legs just started to get numb, the group of people disappeared and the Guru gave me an inviting smile of black teeth and made me understand to come closer. So the girls and me sat in front of him, and while he was chewing his Beatle nuts and spitting them out occasionally, ‘Father’ gave us a blessing. Then he sprayed some perfume onto the palms of our hands and I followed the others, rubbing it into the hair. Then we gave a donation and went out.
Then we had a look around the temple, and they don’t only have a monkey, they also keep in a cellar a real big anaconda. It was amazing.
After lunch with Parims family, we were asked, if we want to have a water-blessing. It was 35.000 Riel, which is nearly $9. And that is a lot and was probably the only money they had with them. But they persisted to do it for religious reasons I suppose.
So we undressed naked under a piece of cloth in front of the temple and were waiting for father. Wrapped up, full anticipation and excitement, we waited for around 40 minutes for Father to bless us again. Parim was the first. She was sitting on stairs with the back to father, who purred a stone jug of water over her, while he blessed her. Then he smashed the jug onto the floor and it broke into thousand pieces. She then stood up and had a ‘flower shower’, thrown by a few monks. It’s a nice procedure. Afterwards we tried to get back into our clothes under a wet piece of cloth. During our final blessing back in the temple, I felt the petals itching in my underwear.
We got another spray and I got my first Cambodian little red piece of string, you were on your wrist. It was an amazing experience and on the way back to PP on the back of an open pick up I thought, life is good.
Back in PP we had dinner in a Khmei restaurant and I had my first Tom Yam and Parim liked it so much, that she wanted to go to that restaurant the following night as well.
Later we all went to hit the night life again. First we saw life Cambodian Karaoke on a stage, and then we went to my favourite club in PP. It’s called Pontoon and it is a ship, you dance on. Sareth and Srey-mom really like dancing, Parim I found out, is actually quite grown up already and very serious some times. She preferred to sit all night, while we had fun on the dance floor.
On Sunday morning, we cycled to the hospitals. The first one was amazing. They couldn’t believe how clean it looked and how well organized it was. It was a normal hospital, nothing special, but it was much better then everything I’ve seen so far in the north-east. So after we went to different wards and spoke to several people, we got the address and phone number, so that they can contact them maybe next year, when they finish their training, to apply for a job there. The other two hospitals were not very impressive and it was good I think, they realized the difference and what it can make.
After lunch at the PO, we went to see the National museum. They were also fascinated by it. In the evening, we walked along the River side and enjoyed the sunset at a big public park in front of a Casino. We went in and it was even breathtaking for me, to see all that glamour there.
On Monday morning, I brought them to the bus station to make sure, they are safe and waved them goodbye. They were very sad to leave, but me too. I had a wonderful time with them and I also felt, they improved their English speaking skills enormously. At the end they spoke so much more fluent then at the beginning. And I know them also better now. Each one has a different personality, which is very interesting. In reflection, they liked the hospital visits most and the nights out.
After having made a very spontaneous decision on Monday, I went to the beach. During some snorkelling there, I stung my foot on a spiky black sea star and fortunately it wasn’t poisonous. My big toe was numb for nearly 3 days. I met really nice people on the way. It could have been the perfect trip, if not my handbag got stolen.
Suddenly 3 boys on a moto turned out of nothing, grabbed my handbag and drove off. And people who know me, know that I have a lot of things in there. So my camera with all the precious pictures from the girls and me, is gone now, my phone, my purse with ID and credit card of course, my USB stick and most valued my diary. I never knew how somebody feels who just lost that, but it feels pretty shit, I know now. Without money for a few days, I managed to borrow some and went back to PP. There I got some ID from the PO and managed to block my account and ATM card and ordered a new credit card. VSO also gave me $100 in advance instead of next month, so that I got a new phone at least, a taxi ticket back home and I got my running shoes, training starts in 2 days…
That experience was a good eye opener for me actually. I was quite gullible and trusting so far, maybe I need to change that a little bit. I also felt betrayed by the Cambodians, I am here for. But at the end of the day, there were only material things.
To talk about something more cheerful, on Saturday morning, I had my first paddle practise for the dragon boat race in November and that was real fun. I met a few other volunteers and we went with a ferry to the other side of the Mekong and drove to a village, who provided the boat. They are tiny, those paddles, and it is exhausting. Around 40 people fit into that boat. We were only 20 then and paddled 6 times altogether up and down a maybe 2 kilometre length. Next paddle exercise is in 3 weeks I believe. Back in the PO I met Claire and Holli, who wanted to go out that night. Before I went with them, I met Delia with her mother for dinner and was embarrassed, that they had to invite me.
Claire, Holli and me went first into a really cool small club, where a Cambodian band played live western music, and they were really good. Then we went again to Pontoon and danced the night away until 3:30 when Helen called me, that the taxi is on the way to pick us up.
Back in ST, I have the feeling that I need to change a few things in my life. I really want to concentrate on volunteering and make most of the time, I am here. But somehow it feels suddenly quite overwhelming, all the things I want to do. And I also don’t have much time left, until I have my 2 month ICT- in country and language training, then I will have visitors.
Hor told me a sad story. His neighbours son who is 13, got ill. He got tested for Malaria and treated with antibiotics for it. But they didn’t help. He got tested again and it is not Malaria he’s got, but Dengue fever. Apparently he is so ill, day 5 today, he has dengue haemorrhagic fever, which can cause deathly bleeding. Apparently any transfer to another hospital or PP can kill him, because the ambulance can’t provide the material to keep him alive in case of an emergency. His stomach is very swollen and he is severely ill. But they can’t do anything for him, except praying. I feel so sorry for the family. And I can’t do anything.
30.09.09
About the little boy, they found out that he has now both. Malaria and Dengue. He is still critical in Stung Treng hospital and the praying for him continues.
Last night, me, Helen, Delia’s mum, Louisa and Sambath were invited to a wedding of a colleague from the PHD.
Before we went I had a phone call from VSO PO to inform me about the weather. I didn’t know that there we had a Typhoon. I was wondering why it was heavily raining all day and night with strong winds. So VSO advised volunteers from the province next to ST, to move from wooden houses into brick stone houses.
When I had a look at the weather forecast in TV, they said it’s coming from Vietnam, over Laos and will enter Cambodia, then it will move along the Mekong.
So today again, rain all day and last night there was a heavy storm keeping me awake. I felt slightly scared.
Louisa and Delia
Louisa, Delia and her mum
So the poor married couple had a very wet and windy wedding. The celebration was outside under open tents, and where we were sitting, I suddenly got a cold shower from above because the tent gave away.
Helen and me after the shower from above
Delia gave me 10 points in the ‘wet t-shirt- contest’. So dripping wet I ate my dinner and afterwards we danced in the mud around a table.
dancing around the table
It was my first Cambodian wedding, and the bride and the groom looked absolutely beautiful, in their silk traditional clothes.
the beautiful bride
the handsome groom
I don’t know how they managed to smile all the time, because not only the rain bothered, but also the lack of electricity at the beginning. But we had a few beers and suddenly the situation became more jolly.
the boy behind me was very keen to dance with me
At 9 pm we went home, cycling through flooded streets and a heavy storm.
written by  katja-horsch on September 30, 2009 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: 16.09.-30.09.09

2 months ICT
Some people complained that I hadn’t written anything on my blog for a while and I must say they are right and I apologize for not letting you know more about my recent adventures in Cambodia. Now, finally, I feel de-blocked.
I suppose the long silence also resulted of being in a completely new environment ( out of Stung Treng, and placed in Kampong Cham) with a whole bunch of new people around me.It is also called ICT- In country training.
It started on the 16th of October, that’s when I went from Stung Treng to PP.
When I arrived, I found Alison, whom I knew from the previous preparation training in Harbourne Hall, Birmingham, England. She brought me Yorkshire tea and a few other goodies, Dave got for me and gave her to give to me. The most important thing was that finally, my credit card arrived as well, to replace the stolen one. It felt weird to meet all the new people, the brandnew arrivals. But also interesting to hear their observations and first impressions. I shared a room with the rather crazy but very lovely indian volunteer Mohib.
Mo and me
After a few days of orientation in PP, the whole group moved to Kampong Cham, a nice province which is around 200 km away from PP.
view from the Leap Viraksar Hotel in Kampong Cham
Here, VSO volunteers have their intensive language training with the one and only Khmei teacher Mr. Dara Thann.
eating Ban Chau for breakfast
my new friend Kunthea (in the raincoat)
group dinner at Jo's
new working colleagues
our boat at the front of the picture
On the first weekend, we went on a boat trip, organised by John, the barrister.
We went to a local village and we saw a beautiful temple komlex with a very old wooden temple.
Then we visited a local silk weaving village.
in the Silk weaving village
Mosque in a Cham- village
We have language training from Monday to Saturday. There are two groups.
happy language class
I am in the afternoon group, it starts at 13:30 until 17:30. We have two breaks in between.
Johns Panama hat on a table in Cambodia
John gave two very good presentations about the history of Cambodia. The first one was about the reasons behind the political developments. The second was about the horrifying time during the Khmer Rouge Regime. He studied a lot about it in the past so he is very knowledgeable. I borrowed a book from him which is called: To the end of hell, written by Denise Affonso, and I can recommend everybody to read it.
At the end of October, I went to PP to attend to my first VolCom meeting ( Volunteer Committee), which was very interesting and useful. Some people followed from Kampong Cham (KC) a day afterwards because on the 1st of November, there was the amazing Dragon Boat race with the great After party at the roof of the Tamarind.
Yes, I am having fun!
PP impressions
Sue and Carol
The Boat race was such an amazing experience! Around 400 dragon boats were waiting to be raced on the Mekong river during the current water festival.
yes, we are ready to win!!
We were 42 VSO participants in life jackets, the only boat with women on board!
our Captain
Hakki and me
After the dressing up with VSO cap and T-shirt (this year all in green), we went on a big pick up truck to the river front, where lots of other teams were waiting already.
the Stung Trenger- Helen, Delia, Holli and me
The actual race was great fun.
Although this year the river is one meter higher then usual.
So the stream was strong and it took us a while to paddle up the river to get to the start line.
group picture with life jackets
Also all the other boats overtook us of course already by then and made fun of us in a nice way. I could feel then that Cambodians take this event very serious.
When we had the initial race against our racing partner, we didn’t even manage to keep up with them for a minute.
VSO in green and orange
They overtook us in seconds.
getting sorted
Then the next two boats who raced after us came and overtook us. Fortunately we then finished but the very strong stream took us away a long way, so we weren't able to pass the king and the queen to wave at them, like the other participants did.
before the race started
Apparently, we were in telly that day. Must have looked pathetic...
The 'After party' was great fun
Oly
with Wendy at her local po-cha-nea tan mee
knyom
Dels
Ems
Holli darling
Evic and Helen
Then we had another week of Language and getting used to KC, until we went off to the placement visit week.
In this week, each volunteer traveled to their own province to see their placement, meet future colleagues, sort out housing and get an impression of what they can expect after the ICT.
Impression on my way home from work
more sunset in ST
I travelled up to Stung Treng with lovely Carol, whom I will work closely together with, Ferdi, and Maria.
ST waiting house
Both of them are from the Philippines and Ferdi works in Livelihoods and Maria will replace Delia
Delia on peadiatric ward
at the end of the year, as a Nutrition Advisor : ( . I showed Carol also the hospital complex.
at peadiatric ward in ST
I stayed in my house and it felt very weird, being back home, but also very nice and like home.
in the market in ST, a beggar with a half dead
my orchid, first time it's blossoming
spritz the juice into your beverage,
On the last day in ST we had a party at my house.
Ferdi made Phillipino food, sticky yello rice
Then we travelled back to PP the next day.
dry your hands with some tissue
and then ask for more ice, or a toothpick
Carol having a good time
In PP, I partyed hard I must admit, too much probably, going to the Heart of Darkness and all that... but it was also fun.
I also visited the "Killing Fields" with John of course, who gave me another lesson in history.
Carol
with colourful sarongs in the background
The Programme Office in PP provided us with other interesting sessions about HIV- and AIDS in Cambodia, Child protection and First Aid Training, as well as a visit to the British Embassy where we met the gorgeous British Embassador.
drink after saying: cheer-moi or soka-pe-ap la-or
Afterwards I went to the German Embassy and got myself registrated ( endlich Mami!)
Dara, our language teacher, is also a survivour of the Khmer Rouge regime, he did forced labour in the countryside and then stayed for 10 years in a Refugee camp. He told us his moving story. He is a great man.
Back in KC, more language every day, eating out, getting to know each other.
I got a nasty chest infection, treated myself with fresh ginger, lemon and honey tea. After a week, it got better.
pulling on a tail of a crocodile
One afternoon, Oly organised a little charity thing at a temple, not far from our school.
We saw children who danced for us traditional khmei dances
and it was so great.
Apsara performance
I loved it so much.
the coconut dance
we just about made it over
Especially one girl was outstandingly brilliant and beautiful.
Afterwards we all gave a donation to the charity.
Troughout the two months of being away, I run in preparation for the 10 k marathon in Siem Riep, around Ankor wat. Now I feel more then exited about it. Can't wait in fact...
Oly is doing Carol's blog with a brushetta on his lap
This weekend ( 28/29.11.), we'll have a home stay planned. That means tomorrow, we will be picked up to stay with a local family in a rual village over night. Everything will be very basic and they can't speak any english or german. So we can practise our newly learned khmei plenty. We got instructions what to take with us and also for the family, so Carol and me got shopping at the market the other day and bought Sompots ( traditional long skirts, one for us, one for the mother), Kroma ( the traditional red and white checked scarf for the father), colouring books and kreyons for the children and fresh fruit for the whole family. I also got soap for them. We also have toothbrushes and toothpaste from the hotelroom that we will take with us. Everybody takes a moskito net also.
Looking forward to that.
After that weekend we have only 4 more days here in Kampong Cham language training and eating out....
Carol and Ashish
Dara njam bay
dinner in KC at Jo's
then we will go back to PP for another 2 days and then a few of us will go to Siem Riep for the Marathon and then thats it. ICT has finished.
I'll return back to work for 2 weeks, until my dear friend Carmen arrives from the UK. We'll spend christmas together and New Year in the hot. And once she leaves, my sister and my mum will arrive. So I have so much to look forward to.
I hope you are all well. Saw the other day on a german programm in TV, called DW (Deutsche Welle), how the lights got started on the Ku'damm in Berlin and I saw the christmas markets and I felt very homesick then. It looked cold but cosy... Here, I wouldn't notice at all if it was christmas or not. They don't celebrate it.
Take care everyone! And I am open to any kind of donation you want to make.
inside the Fraginpany's
Lots of love,
Yours Katja
“This night is never going to end” I thought, when I tried so hard to sleep last night.
It was the end of our 7th week of ICT and we were doing the “homestay”.
This time, most volunteers shared a family, because our group is big, with 21 education, livelihoods and health volunteers; we also needed to be paired off into vegetarian and non-vegetarians. Our landlady and mum for one day and one night picked us up after we all met with the local village chiefs. Maria and I shared, and we had plenty of time to practise our newly learned Khmei, with which we had been well equipped by our one and only Dara. In the morning we played with children from the neighbourhood and got to know our new home and had lunch. After having had a nap and getting a first taste of the bed, which didn’t have a mattress, we walked to the market, strolled around and met other friends. I was very thankful to get an insight of village life, especially wandering through paddy fields enjoying the typical rich aroma of the rice plants; I experienced the wonderful silence except from the occasional birds, singing from the palm trees, feeling the warm sun on my skin and seeing the lush green shades and blue sky together. It made me realise again, how much I love Cambodia.
After an early “meaty” dinner, we played with the children again. The colouring book with the crayons were especially appreciated.
The light went out at 8pm. In the room where our bed was, also mum and her two children slept on a mat on the floor. Before she went to bed, she gave us a potty to use during the night, in case we need to “wee”. The heavy steel doors were locked.
So the night started early, and I tried every position to make myself comfortable, but it didn’t help to make the bed any softer. Meanwhile I could hear mum snoring, rats running around and the scratching sound of cockroaches. Each time I dozed off a little bit, mum or one of her two children used the potty in the dark. Although we had a mosquito net, something horrible stung me on my arm through it and it made me really jump, because of course I thought at least it must have been a scorpion. To get over that shock, I tried to read to let time pass but then I didn’t want to wake Maria with the light. So finally when the roosters started to welcome the morning, I found a little bit of sleep. At 6 I was glad to smell the firelight and was looking forward to the “meaty” borbor (porridge) breakfast.
I heard that the majority of our group really enjoyed the experience. Some of us had mattresses, some didn’t. Some just couldn’t sleep together in one bed, as one particularly manly pairing started to get into the double bed to which they had been assigned, one of them cried out: “ I can’t do this! I am a man! And I only sleep with women!” After some small commotion, mats were laid on the floor and another mosquito net was rigged up, upon which both manly parties could sleep soundly without trepidation and an easy conscience; the house also proved resilient enough to withstand their snoring.
Another volunteer was called by nature in the night; venturing to the outside toilet with her headlamp, she discovered that her path to the WC was blocked by four cows, who looked particularly threatening in the dark. Not daring to disturb them and cause a stampede in the middle of the night, she retreated back into the dark common sleeping area where after some thought and using the profound ingenuity of the English, she improvised a urine recepticle the nature of which is unmentionable; only to say that it resulted in great mirth for the other onlooking nek-smek-chet. The volunteer in question was particularly fearful “in case her cup runneth over”!
The food was delicious and the host families very friendly and helpful everywhere. The children were always cute and smiling and curious about the strange foreigners in their midst. Somehow communication always worked despite our limited vocabulary. Some of us discovered that with the older generation of villagers, that a combination of “Khmei”, “Barang” and “sign language” worked very well. Some of us were even seen to be declining French verbs using fingers in the dust. Others proved themselves much more capable and fluent in Khmei alone (Thank you Dara!)
At 8:30 in the morning, we made our “bumpy” way back to the guest-and VSO house in Kampong Cham.
Thank you VSO, especially our great organizers Pisit and Soklaing.
Katja H
John P
Carol K
Article for nek-smet-chet, the quarterly newsletter for volunteers in Cambodia*
written by  katja-horsch on November 25, 2009 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: ICT- In Country Training

Nov/Dec 09
All that training was worth it...
the Stung Trengers after the run
On the 5th of December, Holli, Delia, Helen and me made our way from Phnom Penh up to Siem Riep by bus. We stayed in the very familiar Smiley’s guesthouse and were looking forward with great anticipation to the next day of the Ankor Wat marathon.
Meanwhile, three of the new health volunteers travelled to their placement with all their belongings up to the far Banteay Meanchey in the North West of Cambodia after the last ICT day and just about made their way back about 7 pm for their registration.
At that time Helen from Stung Treng was enjoying the best Spaghetti Carbonara in the Temple bar together with a few drinks and fellow volunteers. That night, Holli did a magic recovery from her illness and at 5:30 the next morning on the 6th of December, the Tuk Tuks were waiting outside to bring us in the dark and a rather chilli breeze to Ankor Wat.
Ankor Wat in the sunrise
When we arrived, we saw the sun rising over the Temples.
Yes, we are ready to go
The excitement of the experience took over and the crowd with all those people ready to run or wheel…
warming up for the 10k
Holli and the other runners
Jan Paul, Susan, Vic, James and Helen B. started just after the wheelchairs, and run amazing 21 km.
Helen S. run admirable 5 km. Alison, Delia, Oli, Holli, Roger, Suzanna, Trisha, Pat, Ella, Yanni and me did the 10km and although I wanted to take it easy, I also wanted to give everything.
running with the elephants
On the way I saw Roger taking pictures and he said to me: “This is not a run, this is a photo shooting”. And he was right.
beautiful szenerie during the run
The scenery was stunning and while I was admiring the Bayon Temple, Trisha was passing me, fast as light. No wonder she won the 10 km and got a medal, she did it in 40 min!
Trisha, the proud winner of the 10 km Ankor Wat run
Oli followed her closely and I did it in 56 min, my personal best so far.
cooling down straight after the run
56min, Oli finished after Trisha, and winning 40 min
Our cheerers and photographers Paul, Perry, Emily, Tim, Leoni and Lucky gave us great support.
here comes Alison!
From the VSO team who run the 21 km, James arrived first, closely followed by Helen B. Then JP reached the finishing line after around 2 hours. We were all waiting for Susan and Vic, but eventually they arrived. Vic got bad knee pain during that run and couldn’t carry on. Susan stayed with her to make sure, she was ok.
not only people run with us...
At around 10am it was all over.
streching and relaxing after the run
We thought we deserve a little treat after pushing ourselves so much. So a few of us went to one of those posh hotels in Siem Riep and relaxed at the poolside, with good food and a full body massage. Ahhh, again!!
after the run, nothing could have been better
a full body massage, just what we needed
I don’t know where some of us got the energy from but of course, we had an after party. Susan was desperate for a cocktail and a few Banana daiquiris and Ankor- Wat- sunsets later; we hit the night market, followed by the entertaining Pup Street.
The next day, our travel started early again and 12 hours, a bus-, minivan- and taxi ride later, we made it back from Siem Riep to Stung Treng.
14 barangs in a van with luggage tied tight onto the back
after nearly 12 hours travelling from SR back to ST
For some of us it was the last time of being together in this formation. Tim has left the country by now after finishing his 2 year placement, so has Trisha. Delia will fly back on Friday. You are all greatly missed and it was an honour to know you all.
Marry marry Christmas and a happy New Year 2010! From Katja
Aricle for Nek-Smek-Jet newsletter
Apart from running and partying ( we had our new-volunteer-welcome-party in the name of VolCom on the last day of our ICT before we went to SR, and Oli and me did a bit of DJ-ing and animated the crowd to play musical chairs…), I kept an eye on funding agencies for the new student accommodation building in Stung Treng. The civil engineer from Stung Treng made a great building plan and we have now the sum of the overall cost. The proposal is written, everything is ready to go, but no money found yet…
Being back in Stung Treng after all that time (was away for 2 month) felt like a relief. It feels so familiar now and like home. My lovely house, my own bed, my own space. The girls waited for me at home and they had a big meal for me prepared. They had moved back into the RTC accommodation, but waited for me all day long. It was so lovely to see them again, and they are my good friends now and I miss them when I haven’t seen them for a while. Finally, they are in their 3rd year of nursing, they passed their second exam and are more motivated then ever.
They have now English lessons every morning from 6 to 7, then school. Also they asked me to show them how to type on the computer, they call it: play computer. So I have them around and let them type English texts into my laptop from a nursing book.
Back in the RTC, the teachers and the director were pleased to see me, like old friends. Now that Carol is here as well, it feels less stuck somehow and probably we inspire each other. I really like her and have the feeling we are on the same wavelength, she has such an engaging laugh and positive spirit. We are 4 VSO members now, sitting in our new office together with Mr. Tat Sovann (the chief of the technical office) and Madam. Sophany (Deputy of the technical office). We have internet now at work, finally! That really makes a lot of things easier. The cable is now long enough, but I think I won’t have internet at home, it would be too expensive. Knyom nek-smet-jet, to mean loy charan, as I say in Cambodia (I am a volunteer, don’t have much money).
The dry season has started now, that means it is still very hot during the day, the sun is burning from the sky, the roads are very dusty and there is dust everywhere actually, but at night time it cools down and it is rather chilli in the mornings. Also, I haven’t seen rain for nearly 2 months now. This season will last until around May. Then apparently the rain will start again.
And in all that hot and sunny weather, Christmas time has arrived. It feels weird for me and I wouldn’t mind having Christmas at all, but Carmen is visiting me from England over Christmas, so we will join the vol’s in Kratie, where they do Secret Santa and Christmas party with singing and biscuits and pudding and so on. Also I haven’t really send presents out to friends and family. So I apologize for that. I just don’t feel up for it.
Have seen on the German channel in telly, called ‘Deutsche Welle’, how the Christmas market in Berlin was opened this year. It all looked very lovely and made me feel homesick and blue…
Dry season also means wedding season. I have 3 invitations already for December, but was only able to attend one. It was an invitation from the sister of one of the teachers from the RTC. I’ve never met her. But we all were invited and I put my traditional sompot on. I wasn’t feeling well, caught flu from the cold nights, but it was nice. First we ate, then we drank (usually Beer with ice, but couldn’t drink because of my medications for the flu), then I had some conversations with the very drunk teachers, who also were invited. It is really funny, but it is the second time I witness those drinking orgies now and each time, I talk to Mr. Tat Sovann from the RTC (who was also a guest) and when he is drunk, he gives me proper information. Usually he is so stiff and tight lipped, but then he is all smiley and tells me everything we want to do in future and what to change and who with whom. I try to concentrate then to remember, because when he’s sober, he never tells me those things.
After the drinking, the dancing starts. But this time, the bride and groom started to dance first around the table which was loaded with fruit. It was so funny, because the music that played to that was Happy Birthday. Then they even had a cake they were cutting while posing to the photographers. The bride changed her dresses 4 times that evening. Around 9 pm, Channa gave me and Carol a lift back home. On the way, his back wheel went flat and we had to walk through the clear night with the sky full of stars…
It wasn’t the first time that weekend, that the tyre of a moto gave up. The day before, on Saturday, Maria, Ferdi, Carol and me decided to have a little moto trip around Stung Treng and also to O’Russey Kandall. Ferdi had Maria on his moto and I had Carol on Delia’s Moto.
We first went again to ‘Mekong Blue’, the Silk and Weaving Centre’ from Stung Treng. Makara gave us again a great tour and I was able to give them two of my stained clothes to dye. It was cotton, so they couldn’t use the silk dye. They only had black furniture dye, which was ok.
Then we drove to the old airport and on the way to the main road, the back wheel made: puff and went flat. We managed to get it repaired by a local, whom I picked up from the nearest ‘garage’. The tyre was completely burst.
Then we toured to O’Russey Kandal and had a nice picnic with the feet in the cool water. It is also a Butterfly sanctuary there. It was lovely.
Yesterday we had Delia’s Goodbye dinner at Mr.T’s. She left a lot of her things here and gave me also a few. It felt like my birthday. Oh I will miss her so much. Carol lives now in her house and Maria is taking over her position at work. We are all replaceable in a way.
I hope I stay in touch with her. We want to meet one day in Berlin. She did an awful lot for the nutrition programme and saved many lives because of that. Now she is going back and her ‘husband to be’ is waiting for her. Isn’t that lovely?
written by  katja-horsch on December 16, 2009 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: Nov/Dec 09

March/April 2010
Unbelievable but true, but today, am here for 11 months already. It feels very strange, and also like I am going home soon. Delia left, Holli left Stung Treng this morning, Evic and Helen leave next month and then it will be me next, next year though.
say: Cheese
The urge to go home to visit my family and friends is still there, although it gets slightly less. I also made the decision (as I initially thought), not to go home during my time here, although another opportunity came up in July this year, but I’ll be involved in the annual Health Sector Workshop.
Sunset over the Sekong, taken from the Sekong Bridge, Stung Treng
Some volunteers do go home though and then have no other holiday left. I hope to see much more of Cambodia and South-East-Asia in general and maybe go for Christmas to South Africa to see my sister, brother in law and nieces.
my giant bathroom spider, can you see it?
I can see now that I am going to be more and more busy over the next year. Lots of other important meetings and workshops coming up and of course the project, I am working with, will finish by the end of 2011, so lots of activities have to be done until then and a study tour.
3 midwife students, year 2
TB ward in ST
a nurse with her child
Rubbish dump infront of the ST RH, childrens ward
Mami, Deine Yogorette war der Hit!
My highlights this month were eg. the MEDICAM (Membership Organization for NGOs Active in Cambodia’s Health Sector, which vision is improved health status in Cambodia by building bridges between civil society organizations and the Royal Government of Cambodia through enhancing evidence-based policy development and program design) meeting in PP, where at the end of the meeting I was able to point out the urgency of needed support for all Nursing schools in Cambodia, so that it was added to the list of priorities; and Linda.
She is one of the new volunteers, who arrived in March and she will be the first one, who will work in Stung Treng in the Education sector.
Linda and me in her new school
She stayed with me and we had a lovely time. This was her ‘placement visit week’, a week were volunteers visit their placements during the period of their In-country-training, and we both explored her new workplace, the PTTC (Provincial Teacher Training Centre).
That's the one!
It was very interesting for me to see the inside of a real school, and it was absolutely amazing to go to the primary school and see the little ones.
I would love to work there. It just warmed my heart so much…
the kindergarten next to the primary school
visiting the different classrooms
Hello there!
Chum reap sur Misses Linda!
children from Stung Trengs Primary school
We also interviewed 8 candidates to work as her translator and found a very good young Cambodian woman, who is perfect for the job of being Linda’s Volunteer Assistant in future. I am glad it’s a female, because so far male VA’s dominate VSO.
that's how it works!
We also had a welcoming party for Linda, where everyone prepared some food and brought it to Helen's place. We call it here: "Pot-luck". It was nice!
our group of ST volunteers, missing Loi and Holli
who wants to be in the picture?
and now, try to stay straight...
Well, we had lots of fun that night
Ferdi, what are you doing?
Fortunately Linda liked my house, that she decided to take over when I move. Yes, that’s right, I’ve decided to move house.
my new approved hat
I am going to move into Vandys house in May, the family were I teach English twice a week. I like them so much, we get on very well and I would like to support them with my monthly rent, because they are poor. My current landlord and landlady just built a new house and they have a car. I feel I would like to support Vandys family now. The place will be very basic though, no balcony, no fridge, holes in the roof and a shared bathroom for altogether 8 people with a squat toilet. But therefore 3 big doggies, a parrot, 4 cats and one kitten, a lovely warm family, lovely people who are fun, I can learn more Khmei from them, they benefit hopefully from my English. Food wouldn’t be a problem because Vandy sells noodles for breakfast and will be happy to cook all meals and I’ll eat with them most likely, like I do already in the evening when I am there. So I am really looking forward to that, also to downsize my possessions. My giant house made me buy things and put stuff because it felt so big and empty at the beginning. Now seeing volunteers leave makes me feel slightly panicky, what to do with all my stuff. I came here with only 20kg, now I nearly have another household! And so many clothes, shoes and random things.
So although I have another 1 and a half year to go, if I am able to extend my placement, I feel that I need to start to downsize now.
the river road in PP
view from the FCC
at the Royal Palace in PP
During the weekends, I travelled a lot to PP and once to Battambong to meet Oliver and each time, we had lots of fun.
tuk-tuk, ot chngai-pii!
In Battambong I also saw the RTC,
the RTC in Battambong
because Oli had some work to do there. In the evening we met Sue and Alan, our batch mates, for dinner. It was the coldest day I experienced so far in Cambodia. All day long I felt cold. That's why I had to borrow Sue's jacket in the evening.
Sue, Oli, Alan and Katja say: soka-peap laor!
a Karaoke house in Battambong
Gekko cafe in Battambong, very nice
Street in Battambong
One night in PP, a quiet ‘last drink before bed’ developed into a mega- party!
it got later and cosier
Africa, USA, Germany, Cambodia and Korea in the "Green Mango"
just met a few hours ago...
yes, he had to be in EACH picture
picture?
Sarah and Jen like to dance
Sarah giggles, about what?
Rolands bar became the dancefloor
Another very productive thing to do was meeting up with DED (Deutscher Entwicklungs Dienst), who are doing exactly the same thing then me and Carol. They also developed a program to support the preceptors but they are based in the hospitals, not in the Nursing schools like we are, and not active in the North East of the country.
In the evening, me, Carol and Charlotte (who was sick in PP whith Dysentry), had a nice eveing together.
mmhh, whine with ice?
Charlotte(from VSO) and Natalie(from Australia)
thank you for standing there!
Carol and me liked the "Pop-cafe"
going out with Charlotte and Carol
I think the american flag on top made it so expensive...
although ill, who can say no to an ice-cream?
in PP infront of the Royal Palace
So everything seems to go into the right direction and I still love it being here.
The Mango season is about to start, lots of Mangos hanging from the trees, some are ripe already and so sweet and delicious, that all you want to eat is Mango.
too many green mangos keep you on the toilet for a long time!
And it is hot hot hot. Since I am here it feels like the hottest so far. I am sitting and dripping sweat at work. I am lying at night in my bed and can feel water running down my body. No fan helps, even my precious lipstick in my handbag finally melted.
Don't mess with me!
On the way to work when we cycle, Carol and me wear a face mask now against the fine dust. I have an ongoing chest infection and cold which might be a result of feeling too embarrassed to wear one.
Yes, I am dangerous!
So this is it for now (need to blog to keep up showing you my pictures), and I hope you are all well and enjoy spring in Europe...
Daniels donated fans
Big kisses from your Katja!
ups, eyes closed!
unfortunately it was Sunday...
if I keep staring long enough, you might develp into a gekko...
Oli?
written by  katja-horsch on April 8, 2010 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: March/April 2010

Happy Khmei new year!
suesday chnam tmey!
Sorry, I was very lazy. So I've just copied from my boyfriends travel-blog. Very handy... So this is what he said. The pictures I took though... :
please note the rice for drying on the roof
This is the most important week of the year in Cambodia - the start of the khmer new year. So Happy New Year! Good luck for you!
Being Cambodia, this occasion calls for a few days holiday. Preceded of course by some time to prepare. And followed by at least a week to recover.
Just in case you don’t take the hint, next week there are also official holidays for Labour Day and then Royal Ploughing Day. The point, I take it, is that the country pretty much shuts down this month - April is for festival, not work.
Unable to beat them, I decided to stay in my village and join in the celebrations.
Whilst I tried to go into the whole thing with an open mind, I feared it wouldn’t be long before the dreaded super-woofer speakers appeared. What I didn’t bargain on was that the party would be directly under my room – or that it would go on for two days solid. Fortunately (for me, maybe not her) Katja came to spend the week and was on hand to soothe my frayed nerves. And in fairness there was much to enjoy.
we just like Karaoke so much...
On New Year’s Eve we had a lovely wander around Thmar Pouk village.
It was really good to see things through new eyes. The same place I might dismiss as a coarse, unsophisticated, dusty and featureless backwater was to her to a charming, simple, green and fascinating microcosm of Cambodian life.
after them I had a go...
And looking at the photographs of our stroll in the soft, late-afternoon sunlight, I have to confess that her description seems much more accurate than mine.
buffaloes on their way home
A lie-in on New Year’s Day was out of the question – the thumping beats put paid to that, as did our neighbour’s decision to slaughter their pig (too cruel anytime, but the terrified pig’s cries were horribly human-sounding). So we decided to brave the heat and follow the line of tractors down to the village pagoda.
the local wat was used for powdering and playing
It was a good old celebration, with fun and games enjoyed by all, and young and old dressed up in their special outfits.
Thmar Pouk rocks!
Black jeans / jackets, cowboy hats and shades, or bright yellow or red tartan shirts are clearly all the rage here just now. I may need to review my wardrobe.
looking for some mangoes!
A notice at the front of the wat instructed revellers to refrain from drinking, gambling or throwing power or water. Just behind the notice was a row of beer stands, and beside was an area reserved for playing dice. Children as well as adults were active in the gaming, though many also ran up to the main wat building to chuck talc at each other. For those who actually wanted to do something within the rules there was praying for the pious and music (to a slow, swaying dance) for the masses.
The kids were having a great time, hurling water-bombs at each other and smearing talcum powder on faces, whilst the older ones drank beer and gently gyrated. When your most important festival is in temperatures of over forty degrees, focusing activities on cooling water / powder or iced beer / minimum activity dancing actually makes a lot of sense.
I also suspect that, as with festivals everywhere, the celebrations were an opportunity to break out of the usual social restrictions – throwing water was a good excuse for boys to chase after their squealing beauty of choice, powder was liberally rubbed onto faces in a country where such contact is usually taboo, and girls were allowed to get drunk when normally this would be seriously frowned upon.
Thmar Pouk village life
To get some peace and quiet, we decided the next day to visit the pre-Ankorian temples of Banteay Chmar and Banteay Top,
just a few kilometres moto ride from the village.
Much smaller than Angkor, sadly they were also far more damaged during and after the Khmer Rouge era.
However, it was still humbling in its sophistication and artistry, given that it dates back over 800 years.
Restoration work is underway, but is at an early stage, and there are still many examples of the power of nature as trees encompass and eventually demolish even the great stone boulders.
like Ankor Thom...
Banteay Chmar was great, though it turned out not to be such an inspired getaway spot – usually practically deserted, it was the centre of local festivities and a hotbed of powder smearing – but we took it in good spirits, and the kids were delighted to be able to daub the barraing westerners whilst having a good grope of our funny white skin.
don't need after-shave now...
The smaller temple site at nearby Banteay Top
Bantey Toep
was, in contrast, almost deserted, and allowed for some quiet reflection of the glories of the ancient Khmer civilisation without some of the more recent, arguably less civilised interferences.
John, what flower is this?
Before Oli and me went to his place at the end of the world, we've been in PP and clubbed through PP's night life. There is a bar, called "Blue Chilli", which is actually for gays. But somehow we've been several times now because it's really cool there. At around midnight, the drag queens come out and perform on the bar.
The queen of the "Blue Chilli"
Pokerface.
Unbreak my heart!
It's raining men!
it's their night!
near the Independence monument in PP
view onto Wat Langka
Wat Langka
Street in PP
Unfortunately, my lovely friend Holli has finished her placement in Stung Treng as a Livelyhood volunteer but fortunately she stays for anther few
months in PP.
don't go!!!
Hollis last breakfast in Stung Treng
Eating ice-cream in stung trengggg
at the market, breakfast time
Whilst in Thmar Pouk, Oli also showed me around his hospital, he is the Management Advisor of.
Die Deutschen sind auch ueberall!
you can still see the nails on the wall, from hammocks for patients
it's good to know!
infront of the hospital
Thmar Pouk
This photo won the 'best photo' competion! (Lotus flower)
the road along the lake lead us to B. Toep
Oli's postcards
Kelsy and me also took the time over Khmei New Year to practise our advanced Yoga positions.
for more fun, try to touch with your big toe the tip of your nose!
the "flexible schoulder wrap"
Welcome to a session of extremly advanced yoga!
this is the "pelvis-bender"
I highly recommend to try them out!
cheer!
Sunset in Sisaphon
Guck mal, ich bin eine Henne!
Now I will go and copy Oli's blog entry about the trip to Laos, which we also did together, just a few days ago.
You can be exited to hear about Laos soon!
But at the moment, I have 3 Workshops to prepare... So I am also working, not only sight seeing...
Hope all is well! The rainy season slowly but surly starts. That means less mangoes but a little cooler hopefully.
Lots of love from your Katja!
written by  katja-horsch on April 24, 2010 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: Happy Khmei New year!

I have been to Laos!
means: "Hello" in Laos
Actually, before Oli and I went to Laos, we've met in Kratie for the leaving do/party of Emily and Susan. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures of it.
riding from Kratie back to Stung Treng
playing kids on the roadside
Mee chaa chee-moi bon-lai ( fright noodles with veg)
The "Kratie Dolphin man"
Irradaway Dolphins, around 40 left in that part of the Mekong river
you can hear them breathe once they dive up
video evidence also exists of the dolphins...
The next day, we went to see the dolphins. Oli managed to shoot some amazing pictures.
Oli took amazing pictures of them
the "real Dolphin man" and his admirer
let's go swimming!
swimming in the Mekong, Khmer style
melon fields
for 4000 Riel, Oli got a fresh melon just picked from the field
yes, very tasty and sooo juicy!
fresh melon anyone?
After a few days in Stung Treng, we then head off to Laos.
every evening a breathtaking sunset
pink and blue sky in Laos
Some ants from Laos
Butterflies love it in Laos
Bird sanctuary Laos
On the Boat around 4000-islands
They should have those on every corner here in Cambodia!
Beer Laos, goes down well!
They have Books, Coffee and of course, not to forget: Rizlas!
Beautiful szenerie around 4000-islands
happy in Laos
Tubing in the middle of the Mekong
Pumkin burger and Curry for lunch
Guck mal!
Don-Det had many excellent Internet facilities
for a change, we only had super friendly and well fed animals around us
yes, you can have a cuddle!
some bungalows for chilling out
a good place on Don-Det to have pumpkin-curry
dawn in 4000-islands
Cats in Laos even can read!
Beer Laos is sold in 550 ml bottles
on the way to the dolphins
the small waterfall
another sunset in Laos, at the small waterfalls
late afternoon light, the best to take great pictures
with Beth on the dolphin spotting rock in the middle of the Mekong
The "Real Dolphin Man"
Hills of Laos, very close to the Cambodian border
Beth and Oli
Lots of accommodation choice...
Paradise like atmosphere in Laos
I found him attractive from the first moment.
He started flirting, not me!
He asked me for my mobile number...
After we came that far, I asked him to marry me. Instead of an answer, he made a big poo into the water.
4000-island view, Laos
a typical pagoda in Laos
Fishing in the Mekong
our bike ride ended in the "hot-mid-of-the-day-nowhere"
on the way to Don-det on the boat
Laos, the place to chill out!
view from Don-Kong, the main island in 4000-islands
So, when are you coming to Laos?
X k
written by  katja-horsch on May 7, 2010 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: I have been to Laos!

beautiful Kep
Kep (Khmer: កែប, literally: "Saddle of the Horse") or Kep-sur-Mer in French is a southwestern province of Cambodia. It is subdivided into two districts (srŏk): Kep and Damnak Chang'aeur. Kep, which is located just a few kilometers from Ha Tien, the border with Vietnam, used to be Cambodia's most popular and prestigious beach town but has fallen on hard times in recent years.
Sunrise in Kep, infront of Kukuluku guesthouse
shallow water on Kep beach
an amazing flower
fisher men
Tequilla the dog gave us great company in the morning
From the early 1900s until the 1960s, Kep was a thriving resort town for the French and Cambodian elite. During the Khmer Rouge years, much of Kep's French colonial era mansions and villas were destroyed. Many of Kep's villas are abandoned, but some of the town's former splendour is still apparent.
can you see the little island in the background?
The ocean is lined with wide sidewalks and large statues. King Sihanouk built a home overlooking the Gulf of Thailand, but it was never occupied and now sits empty. A good, paved road connects the town with Kampot. Kep's beaches are mostly mangrove and black rock rather than the white sands of Sihanoukville. Several islands lie off the coast, Koh Thonsáy ( Rabbit Island) is just a short boat ride away. The town is well known for seafood - particularly the crab.
a little Crab in Kep
In addition, Kep is home to an extensive national park. Oli and me walked around a hill for 4 hours and had astonishing views.
this one was a bit shy and didn't want to look into the camera
not shy
the famous Led Zepplin Cafe, but closed
Walking the dogs around the hill
beautiful szenerie around Kep
Another attraction is the mermaid statue.
The white concrete mermaid, with absolutely gravity-defying breasts, sits just to the east of the Beach House on Kep's main beach.
defenitely a Khmer mermaid
Every now and then a bunch of social conservatives kick up a storm about the statue's nudity and drape her with garments -- most of which disappear within a day or two.
One night, we spent on Rabbit Island (Koh Tonsay).
on the way to the boat, infront is Rabbit-Island
Koh Tonsay (Khmer: កោះទន្សាយ) is located about 4.5 Kilometers southwest of Kep.
We were drawn to the two beautiful white sand beaches.
Yes, I am posing here for the camera.
The sea here is shallow and has a long slope, making Koh Tonsay excellent for swimming. At the sea bottom are a variety of corals, sea animals and plants which attract researchers and ecologists.
the pancakes were yummy!
Oli thinks: What will I have for lunch???
Snorkling around the beach
the first bungalow from the right was ours
I like Rabbit-Island
The name Koh Tosay is derived from the word Rumsay. While trying to avoid the commander’s troops, Prince Sakor Reach grew hopeless because his own troops began to tire. He led his remaining troops across the sea to an island in front of Kep city, where the troops spread out. Accordingly, the island was called Koh Rumsay, the Koh Ormsay or Koh Ornsay, and the Koh Tonsay, as it is known today.
Koh Tonsay is 2 square kilometers in area. During then-Prince Norodom Sihanouk’s Sangku Reastr Niyum regime, it was used as a place to rehabilitate criminals, who were also used to defend the island. Horse cart paths and wooden, thatch roofed motels were also constructed during this time. Most of this infrastructure has been destroyed by weather and decades of war. Today, seven families live on the island. They earn their living by fishing and growing coconut trees.
a buddist shrein
2 Dollar for the Tuk-Tuk? T'lai nah!
I hope you are all well! Hear from you soon, your Katja!
written by  katja-horsch on May 18, 2010 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: Kep

one reason, why I am here - the Millenium Develpment Goals
In this blog, I wanted to clarify, the other reason of being here in Cambodia.
After telling you all about my amazing travels, it also might be interesting to you, why I am where I am at the moment.
It has all to do with the Millenium Development Goals, which are to be achieved by 2015. That's what my organization works on and me also, in a very small way.
Here are some facts to read for you for a better understanding:
The Millennium Development Goals (MDGs) are eight international development goals that all 192 United Nations member states and at least 23 international organizations have agreed to achieve by the year 2015. They include reducing extreme poverty, reducing child mortality rates, fighting disease epidemics such as AIDS, and developing a global partnership for development.
Background:
In 2001, recognizing the need to assist impoverished nations more aggressively, UN member states adopted the targets. The MDGs aim to spur development by improving social and economic conditions in the world's poorest countries.
They derive from earlier international development targets, and were officially established at the Millennium Summit in 2000, where all world leaders present adopted the United Nations Millennium Declaration, from which the eight goals were promoted.
Goals:
The percentage of the world's population living in extreme poverty has halved since 1981. Most of this improvement has occurred in East and South Asia.
The Millennium Development Goals (MDGs) were developed out of the eight chapters of the United Nations Millennium Declaration, signed in September 2000. There are eight goals with 21 targets, and a series of measurable indicators for each target.
Goal 1: Eradicate extreme poverty and hunger
• Target 1A: Halve the proportion of people living on less than $1 a day
o Proportion of population below $1 per day (PPP values)
o Poverty gap ratio [incidence x depth of poverty]
o Share of poorest quintile in national consumption
• Target 1B: Achieve Decent Employment for Women, Men, and Young People
o GDP Growth per Employed Person
o Employment Rate
o Proportion of employed population below $1 per day (PPP values)
o Proportion of family-based workers in employed population
• Target 1C: Halve the proportion of people who suffer from hunger
o Prevalence of underweight children under five years of age
o Proportion of population below minimum level of dietary energy consumption
Goal 2: Achieve universal primary education
• Target 2A: By 2015, all children can complete a full course of primary schooling, girls and boys
o Enrollment in primary education
o Completion of primary education
o Literacy of 15-24 year olds, female and male
Goal 3: Promote gender equality and empower women
• Target 3A: Eliminate gender disparity in primary and secondary education preferably by 2005, and at all levels by 2015
o Ratios of girls to boys in primary, secondary and tertiary education
o Share of women in wage employment in the non-agricultural sector
o Proportion of seats held by women in national parliament
Goal 4: Reduce child mortality
• Target 4A: Reduce by two-thirds, between 1990 and 2015, the under-five mortality rate
o Under-five mortality rate
o Infant (under 1) mortality rate
o Proportion of 1-year-old children immunised against measles
Goal 5: Improve maternal health
• Target 5A: Reduce by three quarters, between 1990 and 2015, the maternal mortality ratio
o Maternal mortality ratio
o Proportion of births attended by skilled health personnel
• Target 5B: Achieve, by 2015, universal access to reproductive health
o Contraceptive prevalence rate
o Adolescent birth rate
o Antenatal care coverage (at least one visit and at least four visits)
o Unmet need for family planning
Goal 6: Combat HIV/AIDS, malaria, and other diseases
• Target 6A: Have halted by 2015 and begun to reverse the spread of HIV/AIDS
o HIV prevalence among population aged 15–24 years
o Condom use at last high-risk sex
o Proportion of population aged 15–24 years with comprehensive correct knowledge of HIV/AIDS
o Ratio of school attendance of orphans to school attendance of non-orphans aged 10–14 years
• Target 6B: Achieve, by 2010, universal access to treatment for HIV/AIDS for all those who need it
o Proportion of population with advanced HIV infection with access to antiretroviral drugs
• Target 6C: Have halted by 2015 and begun to reverse the incidence of malaria and other major diseases
o Prevalence and death rates associated with malaria
o Proportion of children under 5 sleeping under insecticide-treated bednets
o Proportion of children under 5 with fever who are treated with appropriate anti-malarial drugs
o Prevalence and death rates associated with tuberculosis
o Proportion of tuberculosis cases detected and cured under DOTS (Directly Observed Treatment Short Course)
Goal 7: Ensure environmental sustainability
• Target 7A: Integrate the principles of sustainable development into country policies and programmes; reverse loss of environmental resources
• Target 7B: Reduce biodiversity loss, achieving, by 2010, a significant reduction in the rate of loss
o Proportion of land area covered by forest
o CO2 emissions, total, per capita and per $1 GDP (PPP)
o Consumption of ozone-depleting substances
o Proportion of fish stocks within safe biological limits
o Proportion of total water resources used
o Proportion of terrestrial and marine areas protected
o Proportion of species threatened with extinction
• Target 7C: Halve, by 2015, the proportion of people without sustainable access to safe drinking water and basic sanitation (for more information see the entry on water supply)
o Proportion of population with sustainable access to an improved water source, urban and rural
o Proportion of urban population with access to improved sanitation
• Target 7D: By 2020, to have achieved a significant improvement in the lives of at least 100 million slum-dwellers
o Proportion of urban population living in slums
Goal 8: Develop a global partnership for development
• Target 8A: Develop further an open, rule-based, predictable, non-discriminatory trading and financial system
o Includes a commitment to good governance, development, and poverty reduction – both nationally and internationally
• Target 8B: Address the Special Needs of the Least Developed Countries (LDC)
o Includes: tariff and quota free access for LDC exports; enhanced programme of debt relief for HIPC and cancellation of official bilateral debt; and more generous ODA (Overseas Development Assistance) for countries committed to poverty reduction
• Target 8C: Address the special needs of landlocked developing countries and small island developing States
o Through the Programme of Action for the Sustainable Development of Small Island Developing States and the outcome of the twenty-second special session of the General Assembly
• Target 8D: Deal comprehensively with the debt problems of developing countries through national and international measures in order to make debt sustainable in the long term
Indicators
Some of the indicators listed below are monitored separately for the least developed countries (LDCs), Africa, landlocked developing countries and small island developing States.
• Official development assistance (ODA)
o Net ODA, total and to LDCs, as percentage of OECD/DAC donors’ GNI
o Proportion of total sector-allocable ODA of OECD/DAC donors to basic social services (basic education, primary health care, nutrition, safe water and sanitation)
o Proportion of bilateral ODA of OECD/DAC donors that is untied
o ODA received in landlocked countries as proportion of their GNIs
o ODA received in small island developing States as proportion of their GNIs
• Market access
o Proportion of total developed country imports (by value and excluding arms) from developing countries and from LDCs, admitted free of duty
o Average tariffs imposed by developed countries on agricultural products and textiles and clothing from developing countries
o Agricultural support estimate for OECD countries as percentage of their GDP
o Proportion of ODA provided to help build trade capacity
• Debt sustainability
o Total number of countries that have reached their HIPC decision points and number that have reached their HIPC completion points (cumulative)
o Debt relief committed under HIPC initiative, US$
o Debt service as a percentage of exports of goods and services
• Target 8E: In co-operation with pharmaceutical companies, provide access to affordable, essential drugs in developing countries
o Proportion of population with access to affordable essential drugs on a sustainable basis
• Target 8F: In co-operation with the private sector, make available the benefits of new technologies, especially information and communications
o Telephone lines and cellular subscribers per 100 population
o Personal computers in use per 100 population
o Internet users per 100 Population
Progress:
Progress towards reaching the goals has been uneven. Some countries have achieved many of the goals, while others are not on track to realize any.The major countries that have been achieving their goals include China (whose poverty population has reduced from 452 million to 278 million) and India due to clear internal and external factors of population and economic development.
However, areas needing the most reduction, such as the Sub-Saharan Africa regions have yet to make any drastic changes in improving their quality of life. In the same time as China, the Sub-Saharan Africa reduced their poverty about one percent, and are at a major risk of not meeting the MDGs by 2015.Fundamental issues will determine whether or not the MDGs are achieved, namely gender, the divide between the humanitarian and development agendas and economic growth, according to the Overseas Development Institute.
To accelerate progress towards the MDGs, the G-8 Finance Ministers met in London in June 2005 (in preparation for the G-8 Gleneagles Summit in July) and reached an agreement to provide enough funds to the World Bank, the IMF, and the African Development Bank (ADB) to cancel an additional $40–55 billion debt owed by members of the HIPC. This would allow impoverished countries to re-channel the resources saved from the forgiven debt to social programs for improving health and education and for alleviating poverty.
Backed by G-8 funding, the World Bank, the IMF, and the ADB each endorsed the Gleaneagles plan and implemented the Multilateral Debt Relief Initiative ("MDRI") to effectuate the debt cancellations. The MDRI supplements HIPC by providing each country that reaches the HIPC completion point 100% forgiveness of its multilateral debt. Countries that previously reached the decision point became eligible for full debt forgiveness once their lending agency confirmed that the countries had continued to maintain the reforms implemented during HIPC status. Other countries that subsequently reach the completion point automatically receive full forgiveness of their multilateral debt under MDRI.
While the World Bank and ADB limit MDRI to countries that complete the HIPC program, the IMF's MDRI eligibility criteria are slightly less restrictive so as to comply with the IMF's unique "uniform treatment" requirement. Instead of limiting eligibility to HIPC countries, any country with annual per capita income of $380 or less qualifies for MDRI debt cancellation. The IMF adopted the $380 threshold because it closely approximates the countries eligible for HIPC.
Yet, as we head towards 2015 increasing global uncertainties, such as the economic crisis and climate change, have led to an opportunity to rethink the MDG approach to development policy. According to the 'In Focus' Policy Brief from the Institute of Development Studies, the ‘After 2015' debate is about questioning the value of an MDG-type, target-based approach to international development, about progress so far on poverty reduction, about looking to an uncertain future and exploring what kind of system is needed after the MDG deadline has passed.
The effects of increasing drug use has been noted by the International Journal of Drug Policy as a deterrent to the goal of the MDGs.
Challenges of the Millennium Development Goals:
Although developed countries' aid for the achievement of the MDGs have been rising over the recent year, it has shown that more than half is towards debt relief owed by poor countries. As well, remaining aid money goes towards natural disaster relief and military aid which does not further the country into development. According to the United Nations Department of Economic and Social Affairs (2006), the 50 least developed countries only receive about one third of all aid that flows from developed countries, raising the issue of aid not moving from rich to poor depending on their development needs but rather from rich to their closest allies.
What are the Cambodia Millennium Development Goals?
What is the difference between the Millennium Development Goals (MDGs) and the Cambodia Millennium Development Goals (CMDGs)?
The Royal Government of Cambodia (RGC), as one member state of the United Nations General Assembly (UNGA), is firmly committed to bridging the gap between global commitments and national progress, and between aggregate national and local development outcomes. In 2003, the Royal Government of Cambodia (RGC) adapted the 8 universally agreed Millennium Development Goals (MDGs) to better suit the realities of the country. Recognizing that one major constraint to development is the continued contamination of mines and unexploded ordinance (UXO), the RGC added de-mining, UXO and victim assistance as the ninth major development goal. Cambodia's MDGs (CMDGs) thus consist of the following 9 goals:
Goal 6: Combat HIV/AIDS, malaria and other diseases
Goal 9: De-mining, UXO and victim assistance
CMDGs include 9 goals, 25 targets and 106 indicators. In 2008 the MDG indicator framework was modified globally, but the CMDG indicators have not yet been modified accordingly.
As part of an effort to strengthen the focus of the United Nations on achieving Millennium Development Goals (MDG) in general and the Cambodian MDG (CMDG) in particular, and as a preliminary step towards the preparation of the 2010 CMDG Report, the progress to date in achieving CMDG has been reviewed.
VSO Health in Cambodia especially supports Goal 4, 5 and 6.
In 2008, one baby out of 20 died before reaching his/her first birthday. While this number is high, it should be recognized that it has been reduced from almost one death per ten births in 1998. Similarly, under-five mortality, while high, has decreased from 124 to 83 deaths per 1,000 live births from 2000 to 2005. The progress on CMDG 4 has been attributed to the strong performance of the national immunization programme, successful exclusive breastfeeding promotion, improved access to basic health services, an overall reduction of poverty levels and improved access to education and better roads.
These efforts have made CMDG 4 the goal where most progress has been made, with many targets already reached or exceeded. However, while overall the situation of child mortality has improved substantially, there are still wide regional variations that need to be addressed. Infant and under-five mortality are still almost double the national average in Kampong Speu, Preah Vihear/Steung Treng, Prey Veng and Mondol Kiri/Rattanak Kiri provinces.
Last Updated ( Friday, 12 February 2010 )
Maternal mortality is has remained consistently high over the last fifteen years, with no significant change since 1993. This is due to a number of factors, including the low proportion of births attended by skilled health personnel (increased from 32 percent in 2000, but is still only at 58 percent), the very low rate of use of modern contraceptives (26 percent), the high level of iron deficiency anemia among pregnant women, the inaccessibility of Emergency Obstetrics and Newborn Care (EmONC) to many women and newborns, limited access to safe abortion and low education levels among pregnant women.
Achieving Goal 5 would require a significant improvement in access to health care and family planning services, increasing the number of trained health personnel, conducting information campaigns and addressing the inadequate family practices and care-seeking behaviour during pregnancy and childbirth.
Cambodia has achieved internationally recognized success in combatting HIV/AIDS. The HIV prevalence rate in the adult population has continuously fallen from 1.9 percent in 1997 to 1.2 percent and 0.7 percent in 2003 and 2008 respectively, which is better than the 2015 target rate of <0.9. The reason is due to a focused and coordinated response from government and development partners, particularly increasing condom use rates among direct sex workers. However, there are now concerns about the resurgence of the epidemic among most at-risk groups (drug users, men who have sex with men and entertainment workers) and an increase of new HIV infections through spousal and mother-to-child transmission.
The major challenges now are to maintain and increase HIV education and prevention and to reduce the risk transmission among at-risk groups. Gender discrimination must also be addressed to cope with the increasing spousal HIV infections.
While progress has been made in the fight against dengue fever, Cambodia needs to work harder on reducing the malaria fatality rate and eliminating tolerant malaria parasites along the northern border area as well as the fatality rate from tuberculosis.
I hope, this was interesting to you and you can see the context of me being here and the worlwide mission behind it.
Thank you for your attention.
Your Katja
"Eradicating extreme poverty continues to be one of the main challenges of our time, and is a major concern of the international community. Ending this scourge will require the combined efforts of all, governments, civil society organizations and the private sector, in the context of a stronger and more effective global partnership for development. The Millennium Development Goals set timebound targets, by which progress in reducing income poverty, hunger, disease, lack of adequate shelter and exclusion — while promoting gender equality, health, education and environmental sustainability — can be measured. They also embody basic human rights — the rights of each person on the planet to health, education, shelter and security. The Goals are ambitious but feasible and, together with the comprehensive United Nations development agenda, set the course for the world’s efforts to alleviate extreme poverty by 2015. "
United Nations Secretary-General BAN Ki-moon
written by  katja-horsch on May 18, 2010 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: why I am here

moved and still alive!
my pregnant cat Srey-Niem
Hello everyone.
Nearly two weeks, I finally managed to empty my old house and moved a few houses down the road, to my new home.
From a big giant wooden 2 bedroom house on stilts with River view, I've downsized to 2 rooms in a house, where I now live with a Khmer family together.
Vandy cooks mushrooms
I made the decision a few months ago, when Linda came to Stung Treng, looking for a house. Because I got friendly with this family long time ago and I visited them regularly to teach 3 daughters English two times a week, I asked them if they would know a good house for Linda. That's when Vandy (the mother) suggested for the first time her house. But then it was still in a real state. I thought, Linda probably wouldn't like it, but then I started thinking about it, how it would be for me, living with them. And the main thought of doing this was, that I could support them every month with good money by paying them regular rent.
studying English in my living room
Generally they are very poor people. Vandy and her husband have survived the Khmer Rouge war, just about. They were both in camps around Phnom Penh and had to work very hard, had only very little to eat and nearly died of starvation. They have seen the killings, Vandy lost both her parents. She was only 12 years old when the war started.
She wasn't poor all her life. Before the war she and her family was rich. Her father was an engeneer for airoplanes and spoke 5 different languages and her mother was in the juwerly buisness and they lived in a big house in Phnom Penh.
But after the war everything was destroyed and gone. She met her husband fairly early and moved to Stung Treng, although she promised herself to leave the country forever. I suppose she felt kind of save being close to a border (Laos).
But her sister, who managed to escape to Amerika, helped her, to buy the house 22 years ago in Stung Treng. Since then they live there. 20 years ago she gave birth to her 2 twin daughters Tom and Touch (means in english Big and Small). She gave birth at home with help of a neighbour. She said that she can't remember how it all happened. I think she can be very happy to be still alive after that.
She also has a 17 years old daughter called: Rek-smey and a 15 year old daughter: Thida. Both born at home.
Their living standart is kind of normal for Cambodia I would say, for poor people. But they try to make a difference and she taught her daughters good manners. But Carol made a suitable comment, it feels like being on home-stay. Only that it lasts for the rest of the time being here.
doing the washing up
There is no fridge. Oli just bought himself one because he finds it so important. So far I am ok without it. In fact, it's no problem at all.
Then the bathroom. A squatting toilet, no toilet paper, it would block the pipes. Shower only with a little bowl with water from a big open water tank in the middle of the room. It felt strange at first, I also felt that everyone is looking through the gaps in the wood from the bathroom, but Vandy reassured me, that that is not the case. Usually, the women have a bath with a sarong on (a big piece of cloth to cover all the parts), they leave it on while they get wet and soap themselves.
having siesta during lunchtime
Food preparation and cooking was done so far in the back garden under another house. There they have clay-pots and cook on the open fire.
the kitchen
I also had a go already. It's ok.
They still find it strange that I don't eat meat and appear still so strong. But now I kind of convinced them, that it is healthier not to eat meat and now they want to eat the same food as me. Exept Pa-pa, he is very Cambodian and needs his meat every day.
njam bay...
Now Rek-smey, who looks a little bit after me in that way, that she cleans my room ( I can't stop her) and pushes my bicycle in front of the house before I go to work, now she started cooking in my "living-room" with a gas cooker, because she thinks it's too dirty outside and "too much bad smell".
this is my little new room
Vandy is an increadable woman. I like her very much. She is so friendly, always laughs and trys to communicate with me. Her English is very good I would say and when we speak, she speaks half Khmer, half English. She taught herself with books and with help of an English woman, who was here several years ago. But her urge to learn more about it and to pass it on to her children is increadable.
inside my new living room, I've got the posters from PP
She also likes very much to give. There is a man from Japan, Mino, who somehow came to their house one day and since then, he stays there for free for months, gets fed and can use everything. He is 67 years old but lovely. He has gone back to Japan now after a month staying in the "bedroom"of Vandy and Pa-pa.
my new view
And what I probably most like about her, is that she is so friendly to the animals. They have 3 dogs ( Zida, Deng and Heng), 4 cats (Gem, Cha-Sok who is a kitten from Srey-Ni-em, who is the pregnant cat and Quann, who is for 4 years already krippeled after a dog fight and can't move anymore, but Vandy looks after him), then there is the parrot ( I forgot the name, but he doesnt like me), and the silly chicken (A-pi-ep, he is very sweet, likes to be stroked and when you say his name, he reacts and comes and kikerikees).
he likes me now
A-piep died the other day. He drowned in a pond...
I tried to teach him to say: Germany beat England, but he won't say it!
this little one is Srey-Niems son
little Srey- Niem
Unfortunately her daughters are not as motivated as their mother. They pick up not so quickly. But I hope by the time I live there a bit longer, their English will have improved a little bit. Well, it has already I suppose.
Welcome in my new house!
mmhh, Thai curry and fruit!
Touch, Peach, Rek-smey and Tida, my sisters!
together with the Korean teacher and Linda
I don't wear high heels!
at small Health meeting
building work for a new bridge goes on now for nearly 6 months!
Tida and Rek-smey
Rek-smey cooks Tempura!
Stung Treng at the beginning of the rainy season
khmer eating habit, eating on the floor
Meanwhile we had fun in Phnom Penh and Oli and me did a short trip to Ratanakiri.
Enjoy the pictures!
desperate girls from the province in the big city!
Oli and Dutz looked after us
OK Condom or I am fine or 3 more?
at Linda's for the Holland game
after a long night of filming...
Carol, Channa and me advertise for VSO
with our hired bikes we cycled to the vulcanic lake
BE PASSIONATE FOR THE NATURE HERE!
And I said to Oli, we will find the lake. No need to roll in the mud...
Ratanakiri's statue of some ethnics
There he comes, the 30 years old, apparently happy elephant!
OMG! Is he big!
the elephant liked the Rambutan, we fed him
it was amazing but also quite uncomfortable
yes, this is cool!
the 60 years old mum was hidden in the deep forest
written by  katja-horsch on June 9, 2010 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: my new house and other desasters

... and that's it!
So after a proper break in Europe, I had another 7 weeks in Cambodia in the rural wild west in Oli village or also called: Thmar Pouk.
At the first hospital meeting shortly after my arrival the staff made clear that they would like me to help implementing the Ministry of Helth Infection Control guidelines and to work with the staff on the new pediatric ward.
this is not good...
new paint was given and this was the result
patient kitchen and medical ward
Together with Oli’s support we managed to do some good workshops for the cleaners and staff about general cleaning and handwashing. We developed posters for all sinks to give easy guidance and we even went on a long trip to Phnom Penh to get dispensers with alcohol gel, affordable through donated money from Oli’s friends and family. It was a very satisfying moment seeing all dispensers fixed to the walls and being used (of course not as often as we would like) by staff, patients and visitors to clean their hands. After 6 weeks we had a round of refilling the dispensers already. The alcohol gel is now bought by the hospital and refilled by the pharmacy.
our pride, the alcohol gel dispenser with the sighns on
this cricket found a new home and has from now on always clean hands
The role models
Oli also sprayed bins to indicate the different use.
yellow for 'infectious waste'
Now, what goes into the yellow bin???
there we go, even the hospital director smiles!
more and more visitors and patients attend the weekly health education
what a great team! Oli and his VA Sokpha
On the childrens ward I worked closely together with a helpful nurse and together we run the ward at the end on our own. While working with her I could give her tips and advise on how to do things better. We had our up’s and down’s but in general I was very grateful to have this experience after working for 2 years in a nursing school.
The children on the ward had mostly Dengue Fever, Diarrhea or Bronchitis. Severe cases could not be treated and were sent to Siem Riep by taxi. One time I got really worried when a staff nurse turned up very drunk for work. I just about could avoid him do harm to a baby by injecting something directly into a babies arm. I never found out what happened to him but I heard that this is nothing unusual and I’ve seen the staff playing cards and drinking under the tree or playing volleyball instead of being on the ward. It’s just a normal thing.
We also had visitors, one of them was Kath who came up from Phnom Penh to do some workshops for the midwifes.
lunch on Olis balcony
Kath, Oli and Sokpa
Kath visits the children ward
meeting in Thmar Pouk
On the maternity ward I got insights of laboring women and freshly newborn babies which is always exiting and heart warming. Unfortunately during my time here we also had still births and maternal deaths, usually due to eclampsia.
little Angel Alisha
Alisha and her mum Chanty
and this photo was taken only a year before...
We also raised seedlings from little seeds of the magic 'Olifera' tree and gave them to the hospital kitchen to use the nutritous leaves for the patients in future.
lets hope they grow tall and strong
Mary (an education VSO volunteer) introduced us to the prison in Sissaphon where I facilitated three health sessions covering relationships, sexually transmitted infections, contraceptions and condom use, for male and female prisoners and I educated about smoking. Especially the woman prison was poorly to see. Inside the prison the 120 female inmates who have done from stealing to killing are crammed into 6 cells. Some are pregnant, some have children and those 18 children run free around the prison complex without education or other stimulation. Nobody takes care of them.
Fortunately Mary and a handful of other dedicated NGO’s try now to improve things there for the prisoners.
together with some prisoners (on the right)
typical Cambodian photo shoot posing
the prison in a rainstorm
it was raining very badly
the prison in Sissaphon
and that morning it was unbearably hot but no other place to go...
I had the great opportunity, to also learn more about Thmar Pouk and to see more beautiful and real rural Cambodia.
the 'famous' very wobbly bridge
we just about made it over
relaxing after breakfast
which way shall we go?
a pig on a leash!
Rice harvest or planting
to be passed on the way to work
not for eating!
friendly dogs at daytime
the tree with the hidden giant Chameleon
lovely houses
... in a very calm way.
and life goes on in Thmar Pouk...
I also made some new friends, this is Sophat whom I worked with on the pediatric ward.
with the Doctor, Mr. Sovann and Sopath on the ward
She invited us one afternoon to eat my favourite Cambodian food, Ban Sum.
After 4 weeks being in Thmar Pouk, I also went up to Stung Treng to see my friends and family again for the last time.
I never ever have to come here again, to Snoul!
Cow bum!
my beloved Srey-Niem
I cooked my curry for all of us
Rek-smey
I stayed with Carol
my lovely Vandy
from Carols window
meeting at the river for the 5pm drink
say cheese!
Carol looking radiant
with my Cambodian sisters Tida, Tom and Rek-smey
hopefully it will help lots of RTC students in future
this is the new student accommodation building, nearly finished
my favourite view in Stung Treng
a moto goes into the bus
Stung Treng from a distance
beautiful sunset
my last time on Spean Sekong in Stung Treng
with Wendy at her local po-cha-nea tan mee
While Oli was up in Anlong Veng to do some work whith Wendy, we decided to take the opportunity to visit Preah Vihear Temple, the one that had be fought over by the Thai. I can confirm that the fighting has stopped and that it is definetely of Cambodian ownership.
a bullet-proof statement
The temple is on a mountain and they are just in the process of building a new road to get up there more easily.
We also had a big cloud sitting on the temple all morning which gave the whole szenery a kind of mystic touch. The funniest thing was that as soon as we arrived, the bored soldiers came up to us and one took Oli by his hand and took him around. As if I wouldn't exist!
a little treat to keep the energy flowing...
Dr. My won't be very happy!
Last time we were in Siem Riep, Oli dragged me to cycle to the Butterfly farm with him. It was a hot day and it took nearly 3 hours each way, but it was really worth it.
after hours of cycling, we finally arrived
cycling to the butterfly farm in Angkor Wat
We went through the Angkor Wat compound because that is where the farm is. So it was also my very last time to see the great temples...
shy children in Angkor Wat
and? What does this remind us of?
waiting for Capitol Bus in Siem Riep and this was what I saw
inside the Fraginpany's
I have the feeling something big is going to happen...
anyway, do they have pizza with gherkins?
and this is how we drink beer in Cambodia! Take a lemon or lime,
spritz the juice into your beverage,
dry your hands with some tissue
and then ask for more ice, or a toothpick
drink after saying: cheer-moi or soka-pe-ap la-or
Saying goodbye wasn't easy...
On my last weekend in Phnom Penh, we went to the Bear Sanctury in the Phnom Tamao Wildlife Park and Rescue Centre.
Oli and I were volunteers for the whole day and had the chance to find out more about these absolutely adorable sun-, moon- and asian-bears. We were even preparing little snacks that we then hid for the bears to find. It was wonderful.
this one is a bit older and was suffering
I love bears!
two cuddly bears
a cambodian goat!
making little treats for the bears
looking comfy
nearly feeding time!
the peacock with only one leg
she wanted me to hold her hand all the time
this mega python was found at the river in Phnom Penh
hiding food for the bears to search for
this is Brandy
this little one is all on his own but hopefully in good hands
he was found in Ratanakiri
only 3 month old
this is Georgi
I loved the bears!
Ingran has also finished his VSO placement, so we had another little goodbye do in Phnom Penh.
Ingran left also
Dave, Paul and Tak
another leaving do in Phnom Penh
the last time in the Pav
on Street 19 in Phnom Penh
around Phnom Penh
our new VSO Programme Office
Bye Bye Sareth, my lovely friend
We stayed with lovely Alison and Paul.
from VSO volunteer to Expat - our Alison and Paul
On my way back to the UK, I popped to Switzerland, Lausanne, where Antje and John live now. It was absolutely stunning there. We also went camping for a few days.
enjoying home made food
Sophia and our tent
Switzerland at its best
with the Alps behind me
ice-cream always helps with small children
Now back in Oxford, live goes on.
I have a beautiful view out of the window too
my new room
written by  katja-horsch on August 24, 2011 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: ...and that's it!

Welcome to a good world!
this is Rambo
My kittens have arrived and finally get the treatment they diserve.
Otherwise I was busy helping the RTC prepare for one week of Training and to organize and facilitate the annual Health Sector Workshop. Of course with appropriate celebrating afterwards!
So why did I use this title? I think, that this time, Srey-Niems kittens are really lucky to be born, after I moved in. I love them very much and try to take care of them as much as I can. Oli helped me to get in touch with an american organisation who can provide me with cat contraception pills, which are costly but worth it.
So here we are. Three cute kittens, 2 boys, 1 girl. Born on the 13th of July at 5 am and I witnessed it.
shortly after the birth
Because my camera was broken that time, I don't have pictures of them for you as newborn kittens. But with eyes open, they are much cuter anyway.
My niece could chose 2 names and she wanted them to be called: Matilda and Sophia and my little friend Lasse from Guestrow could chose and wanted one to be called: Rambo.
so hungry all the time
Matilda, Sophia and Rambo are having a nap
the happy family, here with father: Gem
Srey-Niem is a good mum.
two week old kittens
yes, not camera shy
born on the 13th of June...
sleep well and get strong, you'll need it!
So after all that exitement and one week Preceptor and Clinical Instructor Training at the Regional Training Centre in Stung Treng, I went to Phnom Penh to be part of the annual Health Sector Workshop and greet Oli back, who arrived "home" after 10 days in the UK.
one late morning in the Programme Office...
Good morning Oli!
Have you had your three S's already?
Alice opens the HSW officially
The energizer at the beginning: write an interesting thing about yourself!
Ant and Rach
everyone had to prepare their own name badge beforehand
Leonie and JP
Chris and Susan
Carol and Suzanna give their presentation
everyone listens?
the RTC gang
the RTC ladies
a nutritional workshop for lunch
during cooking demonstration
njam bai...
Anna does some cooking demonstration
Apparently I looked very yellow that day. Yellow shirt, Yellow hair, Yellow theeth...
At the end of one day Health Sector Workshop, we had a lovely night on the rooftop at the Tamarind bar with Live music from the musical partners of some volunteers.
the "Phnom-Penh 5 o'clock band"
Paul on the trompet and Stevie on the guitar
Roger on the sax
Quinnie the star
SMILE!
Abi, say Cheese!
with Rachel
Anna and me on the dancefloor
Suze and Dominique and the Bongo
Wohl zu tief ins Glas geguckt, was?
Abi and me
The next day of the Health Sector Workshop started with a rather boring session...
Daniels and Thann presentation
still smiling
Oli and his VA Sokpha
Rach keeps us moving with the Communication Line
examples of how to improve the cooperation between North-East and North-West in Cambodia
the Evaluation Tree
the best speaker of the workshop
Maria, Rachel, Anthony, Oli and the giant
the HSW committee
well done Team!
yeah, all 48 participants from the HSW, against the light!
In the evening we showed health related films in the Flicks, a local cinema:
a special announcement at the Flicks
And then, we were invited to Sarah's house warming party in Phnom Penh.
this is the juwellery, Hanna made for me in Enland
good view!
( this dress was so expensive, so I need to show those pictures)
Jen from Sissaphon
Charlene and her hubby + Linda
Jeltje
come on, lets go danci'n!
welcome to Studio 182!
good cocktails!
only one gets my cherry!
What a great time we had in Phnom Penh! Come and visit soon! Not much time left for me!
We also celebrated Carols birthday properly...
Carols Birthday party in Phnom Penh
Happy Birthday girl!
Big kisses from your Katja!
written by  katja-horsch on July 27, 2010 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: Welcome to a good world!

My 30th Birthday in Cambodia
Kampot, Cambodia
under all circumstances, stay calm!
Well, first of all we had a study tour from the RTC Stung Treng at the end of February. A few Clinical Instructors and Preceptors preferred to go to Kampot to see the Referral Hospital and Regional Training Centre there. So after some organisation and preperation off we went.
It was my first time in Kampot and the first time to do a study tour too.
Basically one day to travel there, one day to spend and exchange information one day travel back.
All in all it was interesting but not particularly brilliant as most of the study tour participants were more interested in going to the Zoo, buying lobster and crabs, enjoying the seaside and singing Karaoke then asking intelligent questions when they had the opportunity.
But apparently a study tour in Cambodia is a 'party tour'. Good that I know that now.
Preceptors and Clinical Instructors in Kampot Hospital + Anja, Carol and me
funders of student dormitory in Kampot
lunch with Mr. and Mrs. Chan Tol
Carol and Mr. Chan Tol dig into the sweet and sour grapefruit
Cambodian bananas
infront of the Zoo in Kampot
Carol enjoys a cup of fresh sugar cane juice
Mr. Chan Tol, the Vize director of the RTC Stung Treng
Mr. Sophany is dozing in the afternoon sun
Sugar cane and fish in plastic bags at the road side
On the way back, of course we stopped in Kep and admired the Cambodian mermaid.
Hey Carol!
Carol and me in Kep
19 people in the mini bus, on the way back
Back in Phnom Penh, Oli and I met and mostly he did some work while I was finishing my application forms for the UK. In the evening we had fun, here are some picutures when Ant was also in PP and really wanted to know it that night. We went to the Riverside dancing.
I mean, lets cycle out!
Lets go out!
Ant wanted a good time and had a good time!
a few Tequillas later
at the Riverside in Phnom Penh
Then came my birthday weekend and Oli surprised me with a wonderful time. It was also in Kampot where we were going and it was called: Nataya - Round House Coral Reef Resort. I thought I've landed in paradise!
everything was so nicely decorated...
Oli infront of our little house which had an outside bath tub!
after the pool started the beach immediately
the pool was amazing
our round house
two cuties
the stunning infinity pool
dawn at the end of the pier
I've got you!
it was so beautiful there!
I want to stay here...
while Oli was counting my laps.
I practised my swimming...
caught in the act
we enjoyed the pool very much
some plastic we found at the beach
beautiful shells we found
at the pool
Oly was much better in playing bowles then me
along the beach
me and my birthday present
with the view onto the pier
this frog was dead
the birthday dinner
do I look like a 30year old one?
nice shirt!
who would like to have a piece?
mmhh, birthday sponge cake!
my birthday sponge cake was tasty!
Yum, Chips and salad sandwich for breakfast!
When I returned after this wonderful birthday weekend which Oli made so special for me, I discovered that our puppies at my house in Stung Treng grew again a little. Here they are, the cuties!
my favourite was the black one, the only girl
why can't they stay so small?
at this stage you can do with them whatever, even putting them into a plastic sive
3 weeks old
4 cuddly puppies
the proud mum
our new chickens behind the house
It would be lovely if they wouldn't kill the chickens at some point...
My Hugsy also is a proper kitten now, on the way to a fully grown big boy. Only a month ago I found out that Hugsy is a boy, not a girl as I initially thaught. That made me happy in terms of family planning.
Oh Hugsy, you are so cute!
And look into the lens...
Yes, he's a real model cat!
this glibber is a cambodian dessert, very sweet
Looks like worms
My Rambo enjoys a cuddle
my big boy
I think I get slightly obsessed with my cats
Rambo likes to sleep on my bed
in the morning after my run, I grabbed Rambo and took this picture
and guess, who is this?
brother love - Rambo and Hugsy
My Rambo and Hugsy cuddle together. They are so friendly with each other.
I also didn't want to miss out on a proper birthday party so I invited everyone from Stung Treng into my box to have a good time. Chantra especially appriciated the punch I made. We had a great time and I think I had too much punch...
Rach and Ant on the dancefloor
Luisa, Chantra and Maria
Myself, Carol and Wendy
Rachel and the handsome Hugsy
I've had 18 birthday guests up in my box!
Wendy and Ingran talking about the hospital?
It says 'Stung Treng'on it, Patricks new tatoo
I am in Stung Treng now for nearly 4 weeks and after all that time, it really becomes all a blur after a while. Every day is the same. No stimulants here. My DVD player on my laptop stopped working finally (I can be thankful that my laptop works that well still anyway) so I have plenty of time to read books or to tidy my room or cook rice or change my nail colour or teach Reak-smey computer, but it is like boring. So I am so much looking forward to go into the big city this weekend, I can't wait! Partly because Oli will be there too and I am doing the Mekong River Swim on Sunday.
(Charity supported by the MRS 2011: this year The Swim Team has chosen to
donate all profits to supporting the rebuilding of a primary school in Rikuzentakata which is a town located in Iwate prefecture, Japan. Rikuzentakata was reported to have been “wiped off the map” by the tsunami following the Tohoku earthquake earlier this month. According to police, every building smaller than three stories high has been completely flooded. The town’s tsunami shelters were designed for a wave of 3-4m in height, but the tsunami of March 2011 created a wave 15m which inundated the designated safe locations. Local officials estimate that 20-40% of the town’s population is dead. Although the town was well prepared for earthquakes and tsunamis and had a 6.5m high seawall, it was not enough and more than 80% of the 80,000 houses were swept away.
Through links we are setting up between iCAN British International School and educators in Rikuzentakata, we will be fundraising to help rebuild one of the local primary schools. Any profits from the MRS 2011 will be donated to this cause. If any registered swimmers or spectators would like to donate additional funds on the Swim morning or after the event, then please contact The Swim Team at mekongriverswim@yahoo.com.)
If I wouldn't have my cats and my lovely family, I suppose I would get bonkers here on my own. But it is so good to have other volunteers here too. Although at the end of the day, everyone is on it's own here.
me and Touch, the hair stylist
Cambotschanischer Haarstyle
Soon we have Khmer New Year soon ( 14.-17.04) and that means Happy Happy and holiday for everyone. Oli and I have planned to go to Thailand to escape the madness here but there is no escaping as it will be Thai New Year as well. But for me it will be the first time and I have planned to do a bungee jump, to get it out of my system. More details about that in my next blog! Be exited!
Lots of love from your Katja!
written by  katja-horsch on March 27, 2011 from Kampot, Cambodia
from the travel blog: My 30th Birthday in Cambodia

Getting ready
Oxford, United Kingdom
Three days to go and I'm sitting here writing my first experimental blog entry. Just had some pizza, feeling full and content. The weather is moderately warm but cloudy. Did a bit of tidying earlier and thinking about having a nap. Life is hard.
I have to prepare things I want to take with me for two years of living in Cambodia. I can take 25kg with me, and a motorcycle helmet. Having packed four times already, but each time there's still too much, I'm finding it hard to decide what's necessary and what isn't.
It feels very unreal, thinking about going away for two long years without returning to familiar people and places. Everything I've heard and read about Cambodia so far is very positive, and I can't wait to see it for myself. Is it really true that they eat deep-fried spiders, and that they drink bat's blood? is Angkor Wat really that astonishing?
Well, I'd better get on. More later, maybe from Phnom Penh.
my leaving do from work
all my comments in the entire travel blog are mine and not the views held by VSO!!
written by  katja-horsch on May 3, 2009 from Oxford, United Kingdom
from the travel blog: VSO experience in Cambodia

first entry
So,
Here I am now. It’s the late afternoon of my second day in Phnom Penh and I feel alive for the first time since I’m here.
After a really long but smooth flight to Bankok, I nearly missed the next one to PP due to confusion at the gates.
I got picked up before the check out by Suon Soklaing, who gave me my visa (for 3 month), and then we picked up my bags and the helmet. My big blue rucksack was open ( the top bit), because one string broke. I don’t think, anything is missing though. Soklaing is one of the VSO admin staff, middle aged and very quiet. His English is not very good. He picked me up with the car. Only then, on the road with him, reality hit me. So many new impressions and things to see. There are no traffic lights but numbers counting backwards from 70 in red and green. So once your 70 (green) seconds are over , you have to stop. Once your red 70 seconds are over, you can go. And there are different lanes, but that don’t mean anything. Everybody drives as they like. Apperently there is a lack of Vitamin A in the Cambodian diet, so lots of people can’t see very well anymore. Lots of horns are used and of course, cars are allowed anything and motos and cyclists really have to watch out. It s very slow though and it makes an ‘organised chaos’ impression.
The first rule I have learned so far since I’m here is: Don’t stop when you cross the road. Because then you do something unexpected. Vehicles usually drive around you.
the VSO office
I then was shown the room and was offered rest. By then I felt so shattered, that I happily did that. My room is on top of the VSO office and it has two beds with moskito nets and two big fans. Bye then, I was completely soaked in sweat and could take a shower, with warm water! Cold water is only avail. Very early in the morning.
my room, nice and humid
I also met a few other volunteers, one is actually here with Dengue fever, her name is Noel and she is a Health Advisor in Kratie. She felt this aching pain three days ago and couldn’t see properly. So she was advised to come to PP VSO office to have treatment and people around. A few people from different placements from Cambodia were here yesterday because they went today to different places. On Monday starts a puplic holiday so people are using this time to travel using the big airport in PP. Corine is going to Malaysia, Pam and her husband are going to Vietnam, Meghan is going to Laos and Eric is going to Bankok. I would have gone with one of them, but it was too short notice. So I’ll be all on my own with Noel over the weekend.
After I slept yesterday all afternoon ( not very well), I woke up very hungry. There is a supermarket just next to us, so I went there. It’s one of those posh ones, they sell basics there, but no fresh fruit or veg. So I bought a bottle of wine, some crisps, some instant noodles for dinner and some bread and tea and milk. So I had dinner, there is a little kitchen next to my room, and had some wine to help me to get tired. I talked to other volunteers which was very helpful and they said that they all came in a bunch of at least 20 people and they explored the area from day one and could help each other. They gave me really useful insight information and felt sorry for me. I hadn’t thought about that by then and I’m still ok with the situation.
This morning, I had a nice cup of black tea with milk and bread with cambodian marmelade. When I looked closer at the bread I could see, that it was starting to get mouldy. I was hungry and thought, give it a try where it’s not so obvious, and it was tasty. But then, just in the middle about my briefing about security and logistics with my country director Alice, I felt really sick and vomited twice. So I went back to bed for another 2 hours. I woke up feeling hungry and decided to find something else then in this supermarket next door. I must have looked really down, because Jean was still here and asked me what was wrong. I explained to her that I’m really hungry but I don’t know what to eat and where to get it from. She was so kind and said, no problem, I show you around a little bit. So she showed me good places and I had a relly good beetroot salad with walnuts for luch. I also bought some good bread.
After that, we returned to the office and I had a really useful meeting with the programme manager for health, Daniel. He’s origianally from Ethiopia and really nice. I had a good overview about the health programme and my role. I was shocked to hear that women who just gave birth don’t start breastfeeding straight away because they think it’s not good for the baby. They wait for 10 days and give newborns water from a bottle, which is usually not properly cleaned. As an induction method for pregnant women, they press on the belly and start the process pushing it out.
Patients have to pay one ‘over the table’ fee in the hospital to be seen and then another ‘under the table’ fee to the doctor himself. Corruption here is bigger then I thought. But apperently, things are improving a little bit thanks to money donors and dedicated people.
I’ll stay here in PP for another 5 days only, then I’ll travel by bus to Stung Treng with all my belongings. The journey apparently takes around 7 hours. I’m looking forward to that.
Meanwhile I’m supposed to have 3 hours language training per day, but the teacher didn’n know, so he’ll arrive on Monday. So I have now the weekend ahead of me and I’ll try to explore PP a little bit more. It feels a little scary on my own, but apperently it is kind of save. They sometimes do bag-snatching and I’m advised always to wear a helmet on a motorbike.They are lots of european looking people around.
The rain season started shortly before I arrived and it is such a relief, to have the rain around in the afternoon/ evening. There was a thunderstorm yesterday. So I don’t think I have to be too careful with water at the moment. Yesterday I had 3 showeres…
I had a mango earlier on from the mango tree in front of the office. Absolutely delicious. Very sweet and juicy.
I’ll go out now to find a Sim card for my mobile phone to be available and to take some pictures. I might also find something for dinner.
getting filtered drinking water from the office kitchen
written by  katja-horsch on August 5, 2009 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: first entry from Cambodia/ PP

third day in Phnom Penh
My third day already in Cambodia and I feel so much better. It is 3:45 in the afernoon and I’m sitting in T&C café, having passionfruit smoothie in an airconditioned room. Unfortunately, I can’t connect to the wireless network here, I think my laptop is pretty crap in picking up different connections.
I had a real confident booster last night, when I cycled for the first time on my own around the corner to get some credit for my phone. And I survived. It was horrifying at the beginning, the bike is old as well and the brakes a bit slow, but it was possible.
two monchs on the street
When I returned, I saw Alice who told me, that there was a Volunteer Farewell Party in the China House. She drew me instructions and showed me on the map and after Noel and me had dinner together, I headed off. It took me around 25 minutes and I cycled through really rual areas in the dark. There was rubbish on the streets, mouldy fruit and veg and little girls standing on the streets, presenting themselfes to the moto and cardrivers. Then I finally found it and I stayed for an hour or so, horrified aboud the way back. Also I didn’t know anybody ecxept Alice. It was a mixed bunch of people, all nearly finished with their placement in Cambodia. On women found another female volunteer on her placement and they both got married not long ago. I also met Helen, an elderly lady, who also works in Stung Treng, and she offered me to live with her until I have found something on my own. She seems to be very kind and easy going.
The way back was ok, just got a bit scary because the Cambodians are in a celebrating mood at the moment because of King Sihanouk’s birthday and the Bonn Chroat Preah Nongkoal next week ( Royal Ploughing Ceremony). It is about the planting season, which starts in may. Monks will ask the earth spirits for permission to plough. Then ceremonial furrows are drawn, rice is scattered and offerings are made to the divinities. The most important part of the ceremony is what the Royal Bull chooses when it is offered rice, grain, grass, water and wine. Rice or grain means well, water signifies rain, grass is a sign that crops will be devastated by insects, and wine, that there will be drought.
Over night there was I think a guard, singing all night. This morning, it switched over to music from a radio or so. I had a confidence booster because of last night. I was quit proud that I did it, cyclingwise. So I decided, to explore PP more on my own today, by bike. So I first went to the big Central market (Psar Thmei). It was amazing. They sell propably everything there, mostly clothes and juwellery. I finally found some postcards and then there was a little girl, she sold T-shirts and I got some. I also bought fresh fruit and veg from the people outside the market. It then started to pour down with rain, so I sat a bit and practised my Khmer from a book, asking for some directions.
sitting and wait for the rain to stop
After the rain slowed down, I cycled to the National Museum of Cambodia.
the national museum
There I saw a collection of sculpure, relics and arefacts, dating from prehistoric times to present. So lots of Buddas and Vishnus and Krishnas. I probably earned myself some mertit too, because I was animated to take a yasmine flower and give it to Budda and put some money next to it.
national museum
This collection of sculptures had to be abandoned in 1975 when the city was emptied by the Khmer Rouge, it was subsequently looted and the museum’s director murdered. By 1979, when the population returned, the roof had collapsed and the galleries and courtyard had succumbed to the advances of nature- for a time the museum had to battle constantly to protect its ezhibits from the guano produced by the millions of
bats (!) which had colonized the roof, these were finally driven out in 2002. Now it is beautiful and very impressive.
Vishna or Krishna?
I then went to the rather big Royal Palace complex opposive the Mekong Riverbank.
at the Mekong riverside
I could’t see a way in, so I stayed for a while at the river. It looked so big to me and long. There were a few fisherboats on there, also one boat, that looked as if it was half sunken already.
how does this boat swim?
Little children were running after little birds with a long thin stick, maybe to catch and sell them? A man on crutches came to me and showed me his one half leg and wanted some money. I gave him a dragonfruit and an apple. Then an older poor looking women came and I gave her fruit. I didn’t have money at that point myself. Then I felt really hot and cycled back, direction VSO office, cheet psah pencil. On the way I couldn’t resist and went into an airconditioned bar and had some rice with veg. There I cooled down nicely.
Today I feel like, yes, I’m in Cambodia, and? It feels more normal now. I look around, see only asien faces and think, cool. I like it here. Although it is a struggle, I must admit. Life is completely different here. Each little thing is a new challenge, but they can be overcome. For example, this morning. No drinking water left. So I had to boil a big pot of water after finding out how the gascontainer works, because it didn’t work at the beginning. This boiled water then goes into a , like a terracotta stone pot in a plastic bucket, to get filtered. And then you can drink it. But I don’t mind, I have the time. Yesterday, I was sitting talking to somebody for a long time, it was Noel, and her English is not so good. Usually I get unpatient at some point. But here, it just flows. Time passes not so quickly here somehow.
a typical street
Another thing I found out today, it must be rubbish day, and they collect it while usually a man goes along on a sreet with a little like a waggon ( handwagen in German) pulling behind him. That people know that he’s there, he makes noises with a little horn in his hand.
Women sell little spiced mussels or snails on the street, haven’t tried yet, not brave enough yet. They carry them on their head in a big flat basket.
I saw 6 people sitting all together on a motorbike, mostly children. They nearly fell off.
Women and men look generally beautiful.
I kind of get to know now how to pay in Dollar and how to pay in Riel. They don’t have coints, only notes.
Tomorrow I think I take a closer look at Wat Phnom, one of PP’s most important shrines dedicated to Daun Penh, the legendary lady who gave her name to the capital.
I’ll also propably go and see the Toul Sieng Genocide Museum, which was the notorious Khmer Rouge prison, through whose gates more than thirteen thousand people passed to their death. It was a High school once, and then used as detention, interrogation and torture centre. Apperently it’s very hard to look at, but I think I’ve seen bits of it in my Cambodia DVD, so I’m a little bit prepared.
a fruit tree and my bike
from the travel blog: Third day in Phnom Phen

the 4th day in PP
Day 4 in Phnom Penh.
I woke up early this morning, feeling refreshed. The weather felt less hot somehow, maybe I got used to it?
I had scrambled egg and breadroll with English tea for breakfast and then I cycled with even more confidence then yesterday to What Phnom.
It was interesting but also difficult to handle, because it is so popular and such a major tourist attraction in PP, that lots of streetchildren, beggars and krippels are there. At some point I even had the feeling to be surrounded by young man, keeping an eye on me. So I removed myself from there quite quickly. It didn’t feel good. Although I saw an elephant riding tourists around the What.
I then cycled to the tourture museum and it took me probably more then 1 hour to find it.
Toul Sieng Genocide Museum
But because of that, I saw again another side from PP.
The museum-trip was really sad though.
I don’t know what to say about it, it is unbelievable what people can do to their own people, including children.
I felt quite depressed afterwards and went then into a little local restaurant and had some great curry with a veg called: morning glory.
I really want to take more pictures, but somehow I feel like I’m picturing just how poor everybody is and I feel quite embaressed. Also sometimes I feel not very confident, beeing on my own as a white European lockalike…
On my way back I stumbeled on What Laka.
What Laka
Although I was the only person around, a guard let me in and a monch showed me around. Beautiful paintings and Buddas.
What Laka inside
Finally Noel showed me this Internet café and I’m so happy to get through to the outside world and show you how it looks like. That is important to me.
My adress will be:
Katja Horsch
VSO programme office
PO Box 912
Phnom Penh
Cambodia
Mail takes around 6 to 10 days to get there. They’ll sent it to me to Stung Treng then.
I even have a mobile phone number. Just don’t know the Cambodian number at the beginning:
089223548. I don’t expect you to call me, prob. Too expensive.
from the travel blog: 4.th day

brainwash
Monday today ( the 11th of May) and I’m feeling pretty shattered and brainwashed now after 3 hours of language training.
Here in Cambodia, everybody gets up early and people usually start work around 7:30/ 8:00. Because of the cool weather in the morning. Then they have a lunchbreak from 12:00 until 14:00. Usually they have lunch and afterwards a nap. This nap is ether on their workdesk with forehead on arms or on the little benches in the waiting area. Then they continue with work until 17:00.
Cambodian building style
I was busy today with lots of meetings. First one started at 8 am with Daniel, the Senior Programme office manager and we talked for an hour about my placement, my expectations, my role and the current situation in Stung Treng. I asked him to arrange some time for me in the hospital just to observe and learn. He thought that was a good idear and will arrange something for me. I’m very excited about it now but I also have it easy actually because Kathy ( the previous volunteer who was a TDA before in Stung Treng) was very thoughtful in making it easy for the next volunteer coming. Daniel told me, that there isn’t a current preceptor to support my role. The preceptor would have been a short term volunteer, taking over the role of putting theorie into practise. I thought that would be my job anyway, so I’m happy to cover that for the first time. Mainly I need to concentrate on updaiting and train mentors, translating the curriculum into Khmer, doing visits at different health centres, writing lots of reports and attend to meetings. Easy.
My second meeting was with Pich Bunthoeun, who explained to me for an hour about cultural do’s and don’ts. Very useful. I learned how to fold my hands properly and how to behave in a temple with buddas. He also told me what not to do when invited to a Khmer family, wedding and funeral. A funeral lasts more then 100 days in Cambodia!
Then I met the Finance Manager Sam and she introduced me to the neverending paperwork and receipts and moneybuissness. Including Emergency dentist treatment. And I found out that Borat is a very important man in this office!
I then met Teang Kamonn who was advised to talk to me about Funding but I didn’t understand him, bless him. We both tried hard, but at the end I think we both were hungry and ready for lunch.
For lunch I had an appointment with Dr. Phil. UUUhhh. He is one of the ‘Safe Motherhood Advisors’ in PP, a retired (!) GP from the UK. Very nice and intelligent man, who wanted to tell me more about the Health Situation in Cambodia. With us came Susan, she is a ‘Maternal and Child Health Advisor’. She is from New Zealand and has the funniest accent ever. They both started last year together.
I was really keen to have some sticky coconut rice, served in a bamboo basket as Shane was so highly recommending, but so far no luck. So I had a delicous fish soup instead.
After lunch, I washed some clothes. There is a washing machine downstairs and the washing was dry so quickly.
Then at 14:00 I met my new friend. Dara. He provides language training. I have one to one sessions because I think they don’t know quite what to do with me. But they try hard and I have the feeling, slowly they open more up.
Anyway, let me cry on your shoulder,every day now for 3 hours I have to concentrate hard and learn, until Saturday. Then I will go up to Stung Treng with Seanhgor, who I met briefly today in between.
I asked Dara how I was doing at the end of the 3 sessions and he said, I’m in the top group. That was reassuring. And I even learned some Khmer. Shall I bore you? Scroll further down for more interesting stuff. Here is what I can say without looking.
I work in Stung Treng. Is:
Knyom twirlcar no Stung Treng.
She doesn’t like to eat bread but likes rice. Is:
Quot ot cholchet njam numbung tej pontai cholchet bay.
I think. Don’t look at how it’s written. It’s totally wrong written. It’s just how I speak it out. I really would like to learn it now. So I have to go through notes one more time.
What else to bore you with?
After that exiting day today, I fell asleep on my bed going through my notes. A loud knock woke me up and two volunteers I didn’t know then asked me, if I wanted to come to see a film tonight at 7 pm in Meta-house. They were taking part in organising the Phnom Penh Gay and Lesbian Pride 2009. And the film was ‘Milk’. So I said yes ( because I like the actor Sean Penn) and after having had a quick mango, I cycled to the place.
at Meta-House
A little white wall was under the roof and it was actually the opening of the pride. They had a barbeque and I had a German sausage! there with lots of ketchup! and mustard. I was in heaven then.
The film was really good. Maybe 40 people in there? And a very well known DJ from Indonesia, who organised lots of events similar to this in Indonesia. So every day they have some different event now until Sunday. Lots of party and at the end, they even crown somebody after a Mr. Gay Cambodia contest.
Tomorrow starts the puplic holiday. I’ll get up early because I don’t want to miss the ploughing festival with the forcast from the Royal Ox.
I also will see the VSO doctor tomorrow to have a look through my vaccinations and so on. I better not mention, that I haven’t started to take my Malaria tablets yet. I just think, they have so many side effects and make you resistant at some point. Why to take them if I can get Malaria anyway and then take even more and higher doses of Antibiotics because I might be resistant already then. And here in PP is no danger of getting Malaria.
If you don’t hear anything from me for 7 to 14 days, then I’ll be very sick with Dengue fever. Every third volunteer had it so far and I’m sure, I’ll get it as well at some point. One even had Typhus. But none had ever Malaria.
If you want to send presents, then I would apprichiate Anti-Mosquito lotion/spray.
Otherwise I hope you are all well. It’s great that I can share my experiences with you.
from the travel blog: Monday, the 11th of May

the Tuesday
I got up early tomorrow and went to see Bonn Chroat Preah Nongkoal (Royal Ploughing Ceremony).
Is the royal Bull hungry?
Lots of people were there and probably important people too, they came in big black cars.
the march in
At first there was a march into the park by the royal guards and then the king and queen themselves.
the king on the way to the ceremony
The queen looks comfortable to me
I couldn’t get in at first, I had to have a ticket. I couldn’t buy it and I tried twice to get in. Then a Cambodian man gave me his ticket and I was in.
at the ceremony
First some monks were like praying for a long time.
aren't they beautiful?
Then the Royals stood up and marched around the circle, the king was ploughing
the king loughs the park
and the queen was throwing rice around.
the queen follows her husband throwing something
They did that for four rounds and it took a long time but they played beautiful local music with it.
rain is on it's way
Then finally they sat down and the Royal Bulls came and choose their food.
easy tiger!
The fist one choose grain and I think, the second one too. So it looks good for this planting season.
isn't he a beautiful bull?
not quite sure but I think they choose grain
Then I had the most perculiar doctor visit ever. Songklong gave me a lift and it was a very modern and clean praxis, where you have to take your shoes off before you enter, with a Russian female doctor called Ludmila.
I’m used from the UK, you say what you have and then they prescribe and then you are out after max 10 min.
At the beginning, she was asking me lots of personal questions, also the reason why I came to Cambodia. Then she gave me a monologue over 25 minutes about Cambodia and what I could get. For me she described the really worst case scenarios, but I can imagine, that people there only go to see a doctor when they are already half dead.
She then came closer and closer and asked me again about me reason for coming. She wanted to know from what I’m running away. I explained again my reasons. She then talked me through the first aid kit and how and when to use meds.Then she asked me again and I couldn’t believe it. If I would have some heartache and wanted to leave and so on. I then asked her why she was keep asking me and her reply was, that she wanted to know how my emotional status was. Weird.
Then she gave me advice about how to carry my bag to keep it away from thiefs and then she grabbed my foot and put it on her leg and said: you have a red mark there.
Well, I have red marks all over my feet, she inspected it very closley but then couldn’t find something.
After all that, she advised me to start Doxycycline before I enter Stung Treng although it is a low risk area and to stop my contraception pill after she asked everything about my relationship.
She was very nice but really weird. After 1 hour, she did let me out off her praxis.
I have to go back in September/Oktober to have another Vaccination. So she said, she’s looking forward to see me then. Me too!
On the way back I had some fried rice with veg and prawns in a local restaurant for 8000 Riel.
Then I had another 3 hours language training with Dara. It is great. I learned a few vocabularies and I can have a little conversation now. I’m still very very slow, but I have the feeling if I practice, it might be ok. So I feel motivated.
Believe it or not, tomorrow I have Language for 2 hours in the morning and then 3 hours in the afternoon! Gosh. I tried to persuade Dara to take it easy tomorrow.
He is lovely and a good teacher.
I think I’ll go early to bed tonight. Will update again on Friday, before I go up to Stung Treng.
Will meet Laura tomorrow for dinner. Don’t know where she is based and what she does, but she is also a VSO volunteer and she gave me her number so we meet.
It is hot hot hot here. I wonder how weather in England is. I hope bad : )
haven't tryed that yet, I think it's salted fruit
from the travel blog: Tuesday

what happend from Wednesday until Friday!
Street in PP with amazing trees
I had yesterday ( Wednesday) at first 3 hours language training in the morning and then another 2 hours in the afternoon. It was very difficult to concentrate at the end. Suddenly, everything started to sound the same. And my enthusiasm from the beginning is fading as well.
Street Sothearos
I then met Laura for dinner. She picked me up from the office and we cycled to Frizz. A Khmer-Restaurant, where they also offer cooking classes.
While we were looking at the menu, I felt something on my shoulder and I jumped up, nearly screamed loud, because I thought it was a big spider! But then it was only a giant beatle. Maybe a coqurouch ( how do I spell that)? We couldn’t decide.
I then ordered fresh coconut juice and a local fish dish, and Laura took lemon juice and fish curry. The food was really nice.
Laura and me, not the beatle!
Laura is a short term volunteer, in Cambodia for the second time already. Her first project was about national Cambodian volunteers and the current one is very political.
The main party in Cambodia trys to close NGO offices because they support the poor people too much so that they get educated and maybe gain some wealth. So this party
can’t do anything against big Organisations like eg. VSO, but smaller, newer ones have a very difficult time. This party also wants to develop a new law against NGO’s in Cambodia. So Laura takes activly part in the process of stopping this.
Because it is again very corrupt and unhuman.
Laura also had experiences with Dr. Ludmilla. When she went there with some Gastritis, Ludmilla wanted her to take of her top to examine her tummy. Apperently then she went on and on how beautiful Lauras body is!
I like Laura.
Independence monument
We want to meet again tomorrow probably to go to the famous russian market.
After the dinner, I went again to Metha- House, following the invitation from Claire and Helen. Both of them are VSO volunteers and a couple, as I found out later. Also they help to organise the Gay – Pride here in PP. So I went there and a transexual surviver of Pol Pot times was just there, answering some questions from the crowd.
Then we saw the film “Fire”. An Indian movie about two lesbian women. It was quite nice.
I then went home and kept chatting to Noel (who has nearly completely recoverd from her Dengue fever) and Eric, the volunteer from Kenya. Because of their religion, Homosexuality is a big tabu in both of their countries and they can’t understand how it can work. I couldn’t believe it when they told me of how many volunteers are actual gay. (They are real gossip pockets)So many!
Noel, Eric and me at VSO office
Thursday today.
My day startet with 4 lessons of Khmei, as they say here. Afterwards I went to the market and found potatoes! So I had for lunch some fried noodles with potatoes and pies. Then I cycled up to Laura’s flat and to go together to the russian market. She lives in a very nice area. It’s also called BKK1 ( Boeung Keng Kang 1) and the city’s ‘foreigener quarter’ since the 1980s. The area is base to many NGO’s, embassies and international organisations and now also hotels, restaurants, bars, massage spas and so on. I even spotted ‘Save the children’ s office there.
The russian market was far less architectural interesting then the Central market but had a larger and more varied selection of souveniers, clothes, DVD’s and music and fruit and veg. I bought a little handfan? ( Faecher), a rain coat (v. thin layer of plastic), apples, batteries, 2 CD’s ( Mika and the new one from Manu Chau Doerti!) and something for my nieces ( you’ll see!). Laura bought bathroom hooks and DVD’s. They had the newest selection of films there.
typical streetscene
Then we had a cooling ginger-lemon juice and I went to the pharmacy and Laura back home. At pharmacy I bought more Moskito repellent. My legs are full of bites. I need to be more careful and put more stuff on.
I was in the right shopping mood then. Went to Street 240, another area that offers a unique concentration of little restaurants, bars and Euro-Asien shops and galleries. I discovered a great shop there, run by a French lady, called: Waterlily- Atelier. They were all sitting on the floor, producing beautiful juwelly.
I couldn't get enough
Of course I had to buy something, so I bought 2 pairs of earrings and a necklace.
impressive beads
Then I discovered a shop called simpley: chocolate. I hadn’t eaten any chocolate since I’m here, except some on the first night, the one I got from Pam. So I had a Brownie, 2 Trueffels and a chocolate milkshake. I felt really dekadent. But also I know that soon, once I’m in Stung Treng, I won’t have that luxary any more.
nice weather in Cambodia
So tonight, I’m sharing my room with Helen. She had a few days off and traveled around Cambodia before going back to Stung Treng tomorrow. It is good to see her again before I arrive. She went shopping here and takes with her cheese, peanut butter, porridge, brown rice, raisans. I can’t buy it there. So I went also the the supermarket to get some of those items. I probably can survive without cheese. I know you couldn’t, Carmi…
at the royal palace
I’ll stay with Helen, until my house is sorted out. Will see what happens once I’m there.
Helen is very pleasant and I’m glad that I have met her and that she offered me her hospitality.
Actually evey volunteer is really nice and helpful. It makes such a difference. Especially for me, arriving out of cycle, not knowing anybody and anything. I hope, I can be helpful one day for somebody in my situation.
Tomorrw, I’ll have again language all morning. Before that, I want to get up early and see, how the locals do exercise in the park.
Apparently they start already at 5 am, rush to the little park area in their pyjamas and do Thai Chie like exersises. I want to be tourist and picture it.
people come here v. early in the mornig to do exercises
Then I’ll meet Sohklang at 1pm to talk about my journey on Saturday. He goes with me, because he works also at the RTC ( regional training centre). Very nice guy.
I also need to take with me a first aid kit/bag and a waterfilter-system and a moskito-net. VSO provides all that.
After meeting him, I thought I go and chill out at a pool, Laura recommended to me. Then I need to pack my stuff together and get ready for the long journey to Stung Treng. Kathy thinks it’ll take up to 9 hours. Apparently the bus stops twice at a food place on the way.
Generally I’m feeling fine, apart from heavy homesickness now and then. Sometimes I could cry just out of the blue, when I think about home. And I have a few homes now. But then I think, gosh, I am here now for more then 1 week already, how did I manage that? I’m certainly still in the adaptation process. And that can take a while.
What I noticed was, that I’ve never seen people beeing angry or shouting at children. Also the fathers are so much involved with the children, it really amazed me. And that might be the reason, why Cambodians are generally very friendly, warm and patient. Of course, there are exceptions. But that was my impression.
So, more Goodnight stories from me most likely from Stung Treng next week!
Hope, it’s not too booring or to long. Please give me feedback, doing this for the first time!
Lots of Love! Thinking of you!
Chaktomuk Theatre
from the travel blog: Wednesday until Friday (13-15.05.2009)

quick impressions
Hi there,
just a quick few words, because I really urgently need a pee!
Wat Botum
So, tomorrow I'm going to Stung Treng by Taxi now. Hau was deciding it is quicker and I would have more time to relax afterwards.
picture for my oncle Rainer
They'll pick me up at 4:00 in the morning and estimated arrival time will be before lunchtime.
aquivalent to Berlins "Treptower Park"
Will update you next from Stung Treng!
in the park
Have packing to do now and more postcard- writing...
x Katja
in front of the Cambodian Vietnam Monument
from the travel blog: last day in PP

Stung Treng 1
City, Zimbabwe
here I am.
I’m sitting on the veranda in Helen’s house and look onto the Mekong-river and I can see the huge long brigde, which eventually leads to Laos. And here I am finally in Stung Treng.
view from Helens veranda
The Taxi picked me up from the VSO office on Saturday at 4:00 am and off we were. Usually the taxi is packed, 3 in the front and 4 at the back. But Hor ( who I travelled with and whom I working with closely in Stung Treng) booked 2 seats for each of us, so we were comfortable.
I know now, why they recommend to take sport-bras with you though. The driver shot over bumpy streets and there are big holes on the way. Fortunately I didn’t see all the rather risky overtakings he did, because I was quite tired and slept a little bit on the way. The aircon was on all the time and it was really cold. But I was prepared and had my fleece and a scarf with me.
On the way half way up, the street was very muddy but the driver managed well and so we slipped ahead.
I also had my first rice dish for breakfast at 6:00 am. It was rather nice. Rice with ginger and frighed chicken and soup. I just watched how the other were eating it. They usually don’t use chopsticks. They have in the left hand the fork, right the spoon and with the fork they shift the food onto the spoon and that goes into the mouth.
We arrived in ST around 11:00. Helen was there and she introduced me to her lovely house.
I think, it is stunning.
Helens house
When I looked around it I thought, this is how paradise could look like.
more green
Helens house from one side
We had some Tuna sandwich for lunch and then Helens new friend arrived. His name is Kahn and he comes from a very poor background. But in his mind, he ever so strongly wants to become a doctor. So he started to learn English somehow and met Helen on the street. They started talking a little bit and Helen saw something in him. So she decided to help him. Every weekend now Kahn comes and one day he teaches Helen Khmei language and the other day she teaches him some medical lessons in English. He is so thankful. He is a lovely guy, very young though, but determent to become a doctor. But he is so poor and has to work hard on the fields for him and his family, that he can’t pay for professional education. Helen became friend with a monk and trys to find a way through that. He might joins the army as well and trys through the army to start a doctors carrier. If you want to sponsor him, you are more then welcome!
me, Helen and Kahn
We then had a little tour by feet to the market and to the internet café. In the evening we went to a little food place just right next to Helens house and we had something local.
It was a very very thin big omlette with sojabeans inside and you pick it up with some salad leafs and then dip it into a watery spiced dip. I’ve never seen salad leafes like that before. But it was tasty.
I didn’t sleep well that night. It was so hot.
On Sunday, Hor picked me up on his motorbike at 8:00 and we made a tour through Stung Treng. We went to the bridge and he showed me the RTC and where to go to pay the bills, the other Hospitals and Healthcenters, Kathys house
and potential houses for me. But nothing in sight so far.
Hor, the lovele Provincial Programme Officer
Hor and me on bridge to Laos
The afternoon and evening I felt quite low and depressed and I was asking myself, what am I doing here. I suppose that is the first stage of adapting. I also felt quite homesick and I really taught, if the next day is not better, I’m going back to England.
I got distructed by Helen, who told my that she invited all the other volunteers from ST to welcome me and she cooked a lovely cambodian curry from a cambodian cookbook. Not all people could come, but it was a nice little round.
Hor, Helen, Yvick, Louisa and Joelle
They didn’t stay long and afterwards, me and Helen sat on the veranda, drinking Ankor beer and talking about everything and nothing. She is great to talk to and so interesting.
Helen, Hor, Yvick, Louisa, Joelle and me
That night, I slept much better.
Monday
RTC front
I am on a bit of a High now actually. I just finished my first day in the RTC and Hor just brought me back safley on his motorbike.
the RTC
I attendet to this workshop, and the timing couln’t have been better. It was the six monthly preceptor meeting for Province Stung Treng. I’m going to talk now a lot about this and my placement, so whoever is not very interested in it, please skip this one.
We were a group of around 16 people, sitting in a circle in a big meeting room. No aircon and very noisy from outside. First of all the RTC director Mr.Tek Leang Seou gave an opening speech. He appears to be a fair and good man, who really wants to improve the system and the quality and quantity of the student nurses. He is also a pharmacist and he even teaches pharmacy in classes. He made a down to earth impression but also very knowledgeble..
first working day
Then Dr. Tat Souann and Mrs. Say Sophanny talked about the secondary midwifery course (ADM), which is associated degree in midwifery. The key point I got out of it was, that they have far too litte midwifes in Stung Treng Province. So apparently there are 3 midwifes only for 1000 patients. Also, there are no perceptor around at the moment. And if you do the ADM for 3 years, it is also difficult to practise in delivering a baby. The reason for this is, that each midwife gets 40.000 Riel extra payed when she did a safe delivery in a Referral-hospital. 60.000 Riel when Baby delivered safley in a Health-Centre. So the midwife of course doesn’t want to miss out on this bonus money and delivers the baby herself, rather then involving the student nurse.
Then Dr. Tat Souann talked about strengh and weaknesses of the preceptorship programme during the student placement. We would say to mentorship programme in England. Some Preceptors are not aware of the clinical Lookbook with all nursing procedures. They sometimes don’t know about the existence of certain procedures so they can’t practise them on the ward with the Student nurse. Also they mentioned the lack of resources and little motivation. They don’t have always time for their student and can’t give any feedback.
Apparently a perceptor gets $15 from VSO and 32.0000 Riel from the government per month to take on the responsibility. So they discussed that and then we had lunch.
For lunch, I met Joelle who gave me her bike. Joelle is from Switzerland, infact she is from Lousanne! She is very friendly and easy going and she also speaks German, so that is nice for me. She works here for 3 months already and works for an NGO. She introduced me to the marketfood. It was ok. We had rice with meat and lots of intestines in it. I can understand, why lots of people become vegetarin here.
Unfortunately her placement finishes next month, but she wants to cycle with me to the Mekong blue, the local silk factory.
Hor then picked me up again from home and we were off again to the RTC at 14:00 to continue with the workshop. People then had to put onto a flipchart challenges they experience during clinical placements in the Refferal Hospital (RH). Because there were Preceptors from nearly all 6 Provinces from Stung Treng, they did that for each province. Somehow I put inot my diary automatically some idears already about possible improvements, so that when suddently all heads turned to me, I was prepared. Preceptors have to face a lot of challenges, I won’t bother you now with details, it would be too long. So after their presentation and the group discussion, they wanted to hear from me some idears to contribute on improvement on those challenges.
I suggested through Hor, that Preceptors could let the student nurses shadow them at whatever they do, whenever they are too busy to teach them. Also I suggested to them to try and encourage their colleagues to take on the role of a Preceptor. Then I said that it is also useful not only to have an evaluation about the student nurse, but also to give the student a way to evaluate and feedback the Perceptor with an Evaluation form.
I could see that everybody looked blank and not interested. But then Dr. Tat Souann said the first two points, they do already but the third on was good and that they might pick up on it. Then the Vize director (don’t know his name, only found out about him afterwards) said, that he really liked the idear of an evaluation form for the student about the Perceptor and that he will forward it to the Ministry of Health and that I could think about a draft already until the next meeting in 6 month!
I didn’t know what to say. It isn’t even my idear. That is what we do in England all the time and I’m so pleased that I went onto this mentorship course there and that I had all the experiences with my student nurses and so on.
Then Hor and me tried to call some of the applicants for the VA job, there are 4 now and the interviews are on Wednesday.
Perceptor workshop at the end
And then we went home at around 17:00. I prepared some dinner, the yummi left over curry from last night and then Helen and me ate outside on the veranda.
Kahn came along and brought a giant Jackfruit. I’ve seen it in the market but never eaten it. For me it looks from the outside and inside like an Alienfruit. It tasts like Banana and Mango together. Helen and me peeled for an hour or so. We always have really nice conversations.
When I looked into one of the student classes today, I felt really happy. Mostly female student nurses, all very young looking but apparently all older then 18, they had little white aprons on ( like a school uniform) and around 25 in one room, practising something. They sat in small groups and in one group a girl was standing and practising how to put on sterile gloves. The others were watching and had to say something, when they saw a mistake. It was just so lovely to watch and I felt happy.
Also I have the sense that the people in the RTC really care and that they want to improve things. I think, Kathy had a deep impact on this, and she can be proud of herself. Hor is just amazing. He never had anything to do with nursing and translates now all those difficult words. He was an English teacher before and works with VSO now for more then 2 years and is the Provincial Programme Officer, I work closely together. He is so bright and dedicated and gives so much. I think, I can really rely on him.
So my hopelessness from yesterday has flipped over to beeing motivated and more happy.
Sunset over Mekong
written by  katja-horsch on May 23, 2009 from City, Zimbabwe
from the travel blog: finally arrived in Stung Treng

Stung Treng 2, feeling homesick
City, Zimbabwe
I finished the morning programme a bit earlier. Yesterday I met the Regional Chief Nurse Seltil and I arranged to go and see the wards in the Referral Hospital (RH).
Before that, I met with Hor and my new VA ( Voluntary Assistant) Channa at 7:30 for breakfast at the Noodle Place, where Hor introduced me to yesterday.
Then Channa and me went to the Bank to open a bank account for both of us. Unfortunately on the copies of my letters ( that I work with VSO and in the RTC), they didn’t spell my first name right. Instead of Katja they wrote Katya. So I need to get it changed on the letters and try again tomorrow. Also there were fiddeling with my passport and couldn’t work out if it is a real document or not, because it is a German passport, mostly in German. So when they pointed at the word: Bundesrepublik, they asked me: Budda? Budda?
Channa succeded in opening his first bank account. He told me, that no one in his family got one, so he still can’t pass money on to his family via bank transfer. He still has to give it to somebody else, because his family lives in another provinz. But he seemed happy. He has to be there for me for 2 days and a half per week and earns $105 per month. I learned today, that in Stung Treng RH a nurse working fulltime earns $30 per month.
Helen
We then went to see the Regional Chief Nurse. He makes a good impression and his English is very good. First we went into a room with 5 patients, having malaria. They were lying on metal beds, quite close together. They looked ill. Mostly family members with them, trying to keep flys away. The ceiling fans were off. They also had a drip.
The room next to it was a room for nurses. 7 people in it, laughing, looking at a paper. A big fan in the corner. Apparently nurses and doctors. So I asked Seltil why the nursing room has a fan and the patients not? He then asked somebody and the answer was that the ceiling fan in the patients room are broken and they wait for the repair.
Then we saw other wards, not big ones. Maybe with max 10 patients. There is also one nurse there for mental health problems. Seltil asked me what drugs we give to patients in the UK to patients with mental illnesses. I said to him that there is a variety we use. He said they have there only a choice of 3, everything else is too expensive.
We went to see a ward with patients who have HIV, and then I asked about the nursing documentation. He showed me a few papers hold together with a paperclip and said, that’s what they do. He explained that it is very poor documentation and he is unhappy about it but can’t do anything about it. People are not motivated enough to do their best they can I suppose and nobody is checking anyway.
The Maternity ward is together with the Eye clinic. I’ve seen the small room were women deliver their babys on a wooden birthchair and just next to it are the women, who have diliverd. Usually they have to stay for 3 days in hospital before they go home. So they must hear everything each time from the delivery room.
There is a british aid organisation called: CRY, who gave money last year to build a women waiting house at the RH. Shortly before women are about to deliver, they go there. It is really nice. But already the fans are broken and the bathroom is blocked. VSO supported this project also, but now, I think they stopped supporting. And that is a big problem.
A big dark wooden house we didn’t go in was for TB patients. Then I’ve seen a small surgical ward and we went into a small theatre, were a man just had an operation on his arm. Seltil told me that in his free time, he’s doing anaeshetic work as well, because he is a Anaesthesist. Next to that building there is a big new building to come. A new big surgical and maternity ward. Finished maybe next year?
We’ve been to the Drug store building, were nurses get their drugsupply for the day from. Infusions on the floor, lots of loose paperwork around and two people behind big desks.
Then we went to the Childrens ward. There were swings out of steel, making an awful noise and a steel slide ( can imagine that that gets really hot in the sun) infront of it. Sponsord by an aid organisation. There weren’t many children around. One young very thin boy had a drip, he had malnutrition.They score the people with a Nutritional scoring system. I also saw Delia, who is from VSO and works there as the Nutrition Advisor.
I was really greatful for having the opportunity of seeing at least a small part of the Health System. I didn’t see really critical ill patients or something really shocking.
I’ve seen a women, cutting gauze and folding it into little squares. I then asked about sterilasation, and the have good machines for that. But otherwise I have the impression that nurses there just do the absolut minimum. I’ve seen no handdesinfection or soap, bearly sinks to wash hands, I haven’t sen one nurse having actual contact with the patient. So when there are student nurses around, I can imagine, that they can practise certain skills, but that it is also difficult to keep up the standards, they learned in the RTC.
When I was about to go, I noticed, that my sunglasses I left on the Chief Nurses desk were gone. Stolen. I’m over it now.
a temple in ST
Yesterday morning me and Hor went househunting, and I looked at different ones. The first one had lots of dogs and a poor family lived still in, no moskito screens and no proper toilet. The second house was too far away, the third house was a villa and the last one just about right. And it is also in front of the river, a wooden house. I can move in next week on Thursday. Hor is going to complete the contract with them.
In the afternoon we had VA interview. 3 out of 4 turned up. Hor first gave them 15 min time to translate a medical text (in writing) and then we asked them questions.
Somehow all three wanted the job so desperatly and it was really difficult to decide for me. But then I thought I just have to take the one with the best English skills. And at the end I decided for Channa.
He is 26 years old and works also as an English teacher in a local school. He is quiet, but I think that with the time, he’ll gain more confidence. I hope that we can also teach each other. He Khmei to me, Me Denglish to him. He is very shy and I hope that he’ll still tell me, when I’m wrong and so on.
Helens kitchen utensils
Thinking about beeing here is strange. I was so homesick over the last few days. Even now I feel like crying, gosh am I weak. I just miss everybody so much. And it feels very far away. Fortunately I have Helen. She is so lovely. She told me when she feels homesick, she does something she normally doesn’t do here. For example she puts perfume on. I tried it out. It doesn’t work for me.
And when I listen to my music or look at my pictures, it makes me even more sad.
I need company. But I am difficult with new people and don’t open up that quickly.
Hopefully my homesickness will fade. I feel like a baby.
Helens kitchen with 'compost-window'
I also can’t see yet why people, Volunteers love it here so much. I think I’m also in the position of not having started in a big group and spent 2 month together in PP at the beginning. So maybe I’ll have that in September with the new bunch of Volunteers.
A glance from the back in Helens house
I feel very sorry for the cats and dogs here. It really gets me.
my room in Helens house
This afternoon I’ll go and tidy and clean the office. Hor has to do the financial report and tomorrow I’ll write a report about the workshop for Kadoorie.
The Internet situation is a real nightmare. I think I need an expert who knows to connect my laptop properly.
basket anybody?
written by  katja-horsch on May 23, 2009 from City, Zimbabwe
from the travel blog: Stung Treng 2, Thursday

Stung Treng 3, the weekend
City, Zimbabwe
Today is Saturday.
Hor went to Phnom Penh yesterday morning to attend to a meeting in the afternoon in the office there and he’ll be back on Sunday evening.
So I had a day with Channa in the RTC office. In the mornig I tried to write a report for Kadoorie about the Workshop.
I also gave Channa something to read from the office, now I know where stuff is after giving it a good clean yesterday.
ST view
In the afternoon I talked Channa through the whole purpose of me beeing there and deep inside I felt slightly sad. Because I can give people advise on teaching methods and I can make suggestions. But at the end of the day I have the feeling, it will not change. My little self will not make a difference in the position I’m in now. Because even when the student nurses have learned a lot in the RTC, beeing on the ward in the RH will influence motivation and quality.
At 16:00 we had a meeting with the director of the RTC and he still makes a very nice impression to me. So does the vize director. He invited all staff I’ll work closley with and I had to introduce myself and then they did. With most of them I sit very closely. And most of the time they ignore me. But in that meeting they purred the nicest words ever over me.
I prepared some questions and Channa did a good job in translating.
After work I wanted to meet with Delia in the Mekon Blue café, but then she said there was no connection today.
Instead we cycled to her house and had a chat. I met there Stinky, Kathys cat. Delia has her now and she is really cute. I can have her, Delia said when she goes. I’m looking forward to that. I think a pet can really make a difference.
Delia asked me if I wanted to have a cleaning lady, she and Helen have one. I need to be careful what I say now, because in England I was so against having a cleaner at home and fought many fights.
road in ST
But here it is different. I would probably have one, to support them. That is usually the only money they earn, also because they are women. And it is handy. Because I also will have somebody to ask how things are done here. Washing isn’t the problem, I think I know now how to do it by hand here, but what about how to clean the floor here when there is no bucket or mob. All these little things. Also it would be good to have somebody to look after the house once I’m away. I haven’t agreed to anything yet, will still think about it.
ST wildlife
This mornig, it rained really heavely. We had 2 thunderstorm yesterday, and the streets are quite muddy. Fortunately I got a plastic bag like raincoat in PP before I came here. Delia, Helen and me had breakfast together in the market, noodels with chilli and then Helen and me visited Joelle, who looks much better but still feels wiped out. I think I mentioned that she was diagnosed last week with malaria.
I want a cat! They were at Joelles house.
After seeing Joelle, we wondered over the small market, apparently it is cheaper there. It was an amazing experience.Lots of fresh veg and fruit I’ve never seen before. Also they sold little ducklings there and exotic fish.
want any bananas, or ducklings?
little duckling, wonder what to do with them?
At lunchtime Kahn came and he gave us first a lesson in Khmei and then Helen taught him about tendons and ligaments. She is just amazing. Today I thought how lucky I am to be with her, livingwise. Although she is 65, she is so fit and bright and so wise. She starts to struggle with her memory and sometimes I hear storys twice, but I don’t mind. She is also a great cook. Yesterday she made Jackfruit jam, today she made Spagetti sauce with beef, she makes a real effort. So I’m not as thin as I thought I would be at this stage. She keeps me chubby.
at the market
I will make my famous Thai curry tonight for me, Helen and Delia. Vegetarien though. Delia is a veggi, and I just can’t bear the thought of buying meat from the market. Maybe one day…
what a green view
I hope so much to find a way to connect Lappitoppi to something so that I can download pictures and things.
me, the washing machine
Generally I feel better. Don’t know why. I think I had a very stressful first week. But I got my first postcard from my beloved sister and that cheered me up so much.
Tomorrow I hope I’ll have a lazy day with no plans. I hope everybody is well over there. You can e-mail me too!
Just a few impressions of my new house!
my house to be
view from my new house
coconut palmes at the front
I have hair!
the Mekong river with bridge to Laos
written by  katja-horsch on May 23, 2009 from City, Zimbabwe
from the travel blog: Stung Treng 3, the weekend

Monday, 25 May 2009
I forgot to tell you about the glowing flies ( Gluehwuermchen in German). The first time ever I’ve seen some. It is completely dark and suddenly those little lights appear and fly around. Looked like fairies. Absolutely fascinating and it has something magical.
There are many things I’m doing or I’ve seen for the first time in my life since I am here.
Apart from eating many different fruit or veg or duck eggs, generally food for the first time, it is also new for me to go every night at 9 o’clock to bed. Also last night I experienced the loudest and heaviest thunderstorm ever. The house was shaking when the thunder came. I wonder how I will cope with that when I live alone…
On Sunday Joelle went to have another blood test and it revealed that she is clear now of malaria. So lucky. There are apparently 5 stages of malaria and she had fortunately only stage 1, the weakest form but also it can lead to dead if untreated. We want to go at the weekend together over the river by boat to see the a little village.
the Referral Hospital in ST
My Thai curry on Sunday evening was a success. I made it for the first time with all fresh ingredients. Delia and her boyfriend Scott, who visits her at the moment (lucky her), came around and Helen and me sat on the veranda, eating and drinking wine.
Did I ever mention that Helen is originally from Canada and Delia from Australia?
Both of them lived in England before they started with VSO ..
a street in ST
This morning, Monday the 25th of May, I went first thing to the bank with the new letter, Hor brought with him from PP. They made me a booklet, which you need to get money out of your account. The card for the cash machine will be ready in 10 days. Anyway, this booklet. When I received it after 30 minutes, I couldn’t help myself laughing. They put for my name: Katja Horsch Deutsch. When I tried to explain that Deutsch is my nationality, they wouldn’t believe me, because in my passport those three words are below each other. I tried to convince them for 5 min until somebody else came and said that I’m right. So they did another booklet for 30 minutes. This time, the stamp wouldn’t work and they had to repair it before putting it on. Finally I have my bank account and now money can be transferred for my house.
Hor asked me to type from Helens house contract a copy so that we can use it.
Work is fine at the moment. Just finding my feet. I think I was quite negative about everything in the last few mails. Maybe I am still, but at least I realize it now.
Channa in our RTC office
I think it takes time, I am just not used to it. Also I talked to a few volunteers about seeing the purpose of my position here and they all said, I need to be patient and set small objectives, not huge ones at the beginning.
Hor in our VSO office, very busy
So I’m trying. But generally I feel a little more relaxed and am looking forward to more challenges and how I will manage things. This is definitely a big learning curve for me and I realize slowly, how my life was until now. Have enough time to think about it…, and somehow I can see already what positive effects it will have on me once I let go. I had a disagreement with my mum about me being too impulsive. 6 weeks ago, I was very much disagreeing with her, but now, thinking about it, I think she is right. I am actually an impulsive person. But I think there is nothing wrong with it.
I also realized, how stress at work had influenced me for a long time and how it effected my private life at home in so many negative ways. I feel that I had so much stress in the last few years. I never want to have that again. Here it is not yet stressful, it probably will be at some point, but at the moment I really enjoy an easy life, I feel like I’m on a long holiday a little bit. Except from not being physically together with friends and family. That is not easy at all.
But people (mostly volunteers), I see here every day now become important, and I am really looking forward to see Helen after work for example. With certain people I click, like Helen and Joelle, with some a bit later.
Thinking about a conversation with Dave, a VSO facilitator from P2V and SKWID course, who asked me one evening in Harbourne Hall at the bar, what I want to get out of this personally. I haven’t had really thought about it until then, and I couldn’t really answer him back. I knew from the volunteers point of view I want to give my best to support the health sector here in North East Cambodia, but I also want to learn, just to be myself. And I have the feeling, I’ll have plenty of time to practise.
In the afternoon at RTC we were doing something really useful, I found. We went through each preceptors evaluation form. They did complete it after the workshop last week. So Hor translated and I wrote everything down and will summarise it to complete the Kadoorie report (they do the funding of the project). There were really good comments and suggestions, I can hopefully do something with. I really can recommend evaluation forms.
For supper, Helen bought a small roasted chicken. Chicken here in Cambodia is more expensive then other meet. Why? No idea. She’s having Khmei lesson at the moment. She’s trying to learn how to write it. It’s far too advanced for me.
Tomorrow, I’m going to see my house again and maybe sign the contract.
I’m actually looking forward to have my own space. I asked Scott ( Delias boyfriend) already to help me putting a hammock (Haengematte) onto the veranda.
Tuesday
Today I found out, how much holiday I really have. Not only the 20 days I have anyway, but 25 more days, Bank holidays. That made my day! I really want to try to travel to see as much as I can while I’m here.
In the afternoon, Hor and me met the landlady again and signed the contract. The house is sooo big! Two bedrooms, big living room, big hall, open kitchen, big veranda and a tiny bathroom. So I can move in on Thursday at 14:00.
Happy 30th Birthday Avery!!!!!!!!
Wednesday
Hor showed me today the Accommodation for the students, who have to live there because they come from different Provinces and can’t afford to stay anywhere else. There it is for free for them, and from my understanding, during their theory in the RTC ( usually 4 weeks), they don’t get any money. Once they are on placement in the hospital ( usually 4 weeks), they get $1 ( = 4000 Riel) per day. There are 4 buildings and in each building are 5 rooms. In each room are up to 6 beds and sometimes students have to share a bed. Currently there are 105 students in those 4 buildings.
one building for student nurses
Half male and half female. They relay on 2 water pumps to do their washing, cook, drink from it, flush the toilet and have a bath. One pump is rainwater and one has clean water and people are only allowed to use it for cooking and drinking. Electricity for fans for example is only available for 12 hours/day. There are only 4 old toilets. The rooms are stuffed and I wonder, how can they remain clean and be hygienic as it is appropriate for a nurse to be, when they live under those conditions. It is inhuman.
the clean water tap
After seeing that, Hor asked me, if I could do something like a charity run to get some money to build a new building.
I think he is great to be so committed and trying to change the conditions, the students live in now and of course I want to try and help, after seeing it with my own eyes.
So after sitting in the office and thinking how to do it, I thought I try to write articles about it and send it to different magazines and newspapers in Germany and England. My suggestion then would be to also write down numbers of costs (which we figured out already) and try to support in small steps. Maybe first of all with more new WCs. Then maybe with a water system around the buildings. Then maybe with electricity for 24 hours. If there is more money then maybe build a new building with water, electricity and WC for them. We only need $ 63.000 for that.
If any of you have any ideas or want to support, of course with money, e-mail me.
student nurses
The second project I was thinking of, in order for the students to learn English more easy, is that I want to find out if they would be interested in singing in a choir. And if they are, then I would start one. Looking forward to that if it is possible…
To be honest, I don’t think that the Role of TDA, I am suppose to act in, is useful at the moment. The clinical instructors from the RTC make such a confident impression and I think, they need only very little or no support, thanks to previous volunteer Kathy. I should concentrate more on the Preceptor Advisor role, which is still a vacancy at the moment. I want to be more active in the hospitals, working closely with the preceptor and the student. Generally that is possible, but the project only allows two visits to different hospitals per student placement.
I’ll have my first official visit with the Regional Chief Nurse in 2 weeks. Then we will observe together preceptors, working with students, and give feedback. Therefore we will go to Rattanakiri province for 3-4 days and I plan to stay over the weekend there afterwards to check it out.
Thursday
I moved! Looks all so big and empty. Channa helped me to find certain things in the market for a good price. I have the feeling, people charge too much from me when I buy on my own. Isn’t it handy to have a supermarket in England or Germany? Here, everything needs to be bought in the market. I still need to get used to it. So we bought a big pot for cooking water, a pillow, plastic bowls for washing, glasses to drink from, a jug, sponges and cleaning chemicals ( ants everywhere) and towels. Also toilet paper, a hammock!, Tupper boxes ( so that mice can’t get to food), and incense sticks ( against mosquitoes).
my landlady's wedding picture
It was sad to leave Helen, but I was also exited to have my own space. I think, Helen was also looking forward to that.
my living room
my bedroom
the hall
the guestroom
Friday
My first night on my own in the big wooden house… It was ok. There is the family living behind me who owns the house, so there voices and so on to not feel too isolated. I hope, that one day I can communicate with them properly.
living room
the veranda
There is a male hen, I think called a cock, and he’s not doing the usually kikiriki or konkedudeldo. He’s a little horse and so it is not nice when he starts in the morning with greetings, it is like somebody scratches with nails on a plate.
the bathroom
the kitchen
Otherwise there are dogs around, and in my house I have geckos, lots of ants ( don’t know where there are coming from) and mice. I put a piece of soap next to the sink in the kitchen, and each morning you can see little teeth marks on it. There must a mouse eating my Palmolive rose soap. I asked Helen and Delia about it and they said, apparently that mice love soap. Helen once went on holiday and when she came back, nearly everything of her soap was eaten.
my view from the veranda
They have mousetraps here, but there are cruel. It is like a box with sticky glue in it and once the mouse is in it, they are stuck in there and live until they die of starvation or whatever. I just can’t face that. So let the mouse eat the soap, as long as they leave my other stuff.
me in my living room
In the afternoon, we had a meeting at Louisa’s house ( VSO Maternal and child health Advisor), all of the volunteers who are in ST. Helen ( Behavioural Change and Communication Advisor), Delia (Nutrition Advisor), Louisa, Hor (Provincial Programme Officer) and me. We talked about a joint meeting with Kratie’s Health team in order to talk about headlines for coming VSO Health Sector Workshop in July. I liked that. We had a few good ideas and it was interesting to meet out of work but talk about work.
In the evening we had supper at the Riverside restaurant, eating VSO special. It was delicious. I was really craving for meat.
Saturday
I met with Joelle at 9 and we then went over the river to Thala-Bariwat.
We both wanted to get out of the house and I got the idea from Helen. She was there before and she could also tell me the story behind it, which goes: There was a pregnant women once and she asked her husband to get her a coconut from the palm tree. But he went away without getting it for her. So she went up the tree herself, fell down and then gave birth to twins. One twin was a boy, the other one a cow.
So there is in a small hut the stone statue of this secret bull now, his name is Nandin.
The statue is flanked by two shrines to an old man, Dah Jouh Juet.
Also there are ruined brick towers of Prasat Preah Ko, probably build to control river traffic, as my guide book says.
The most impressive modern pagoda I’ve seen so far is Wat Tasar Moi Roi
, the pagoda of One hundred Columns,
which was built in 1986 with the express intention of beating the number of columns at any other Wat in the country.
There we met a monk who let us into the pagoda.
There were a few kids around him and when I asked him about them, he said they were children without family.
Some parents died of HIV, some were just left alone. He cares for them now and he also is about to start a charity, involving Education, Health and Livelihoods.
He was very friendly and he also explained some pictures inside the pagoda.
It was very interesting and we were glad that we went there.
After that we explored the village a bit more and just walked and talked in the hot sun.
Joelle told me about the research she is doing.
Jo standing infront the big drum
There is a dam to be build near the Laos border, and when that happens, the people there have to move away because of constant severe flooding.
a giant butterfly stranded on the street
One dam has been build already. She is trying to raise awareness about the next one. She is here from University in Switzerland and has to return in 2 weeks. She stayed here for nearly 4 month now, after having her stay even extended. I think I will miss her.
Of course both of us got a sunburn afterwards although we creamed.
one of my favorite pictures
Then we felt hungry and went back to the little harbour where there had little restaurants. We had a fish dish with rice and it was quite nice.
It then started to rain and we were stuck, because when it’s raining, no boat will go. The owners of that restaurant then started to talk to us and invited us into the back of the restaurant. Then they asked, if they could take some pictures of and with us. It was so funny. We all posed for a family picture, taken with their mobile phones. Joelle has more pictures on her camera then I have, so there are more to follow.
Joelle is posing with a girl
On the way back we sat together with a group of drunken Cambodians. There were probably our age ( Joelle is as old as I am), and it was really funny. Fortunately nothing else happened and we landed safely back in ST.
We had a quick fruit shake at the “Riverside”, which is so far my favourite because it has a slightly European touch and nice chill out music. Two guys from Belgium joint us. They do an Asia tour and came just from Laos. It is funny to talk to people who travel and see lots of places. It must be funny for them to hear that I’ll stay in ST for 2 years… So far I have the feeling that travellers are interested in other people, but only for a short time. Because is it worth it to go into deep detail and to know each other? And that’s what I think. It is great to meet and chat about this and that, but then, you say goodbye and that was it, because I’ll stay.
I then invited Joelle to see my house and we had banana cake and self-made ice-tea.
She was my first visitor. It made the house more lively. I need more visitors.
Next Saturday I decided, my housewarming party is due. I try to invite lots of people.
In the evening, I watched a DVD: The boy in the striped pyjamas. It is a sad story, but I liked the film.
Sunday, 31st of May 2009
I woke up during the night once because I felt, something dropped on my face and I thought it was a mouse or something. I couldn’t find anything with my torch. Maybe it was just a dream..
In the morning I washed some clothes and did some cleaning. At lunchtime I got a call from Evic, she is a VSO volunteer living in Kathy’s house, working in Livelihood. She gave me an iron ( yeahhh!!, otherwise it is very expensive in the market) and some speakers for my laptop (yeahhhhhhh!!!, also very difficult to find). That made me very happy. After my smart linen clothes have been washed, they definitely need to be ironed. So that’s what I’m doing next.
Azaleen I think Mami
Otherwise I hope all is well on the other side of the planet. Aren’t there elections in
Germany at the moment?
I’m here now for more then 3 weeks and it feels already like 3 months.
I miss you all and give you a big hug. And my letterbox-pigeon whole is hungry!
from the travel blog: ST 25.05.- 31.05.2009

my 29th Birthday
My marvellous Birthday-cake, made in Stung Treng
My first Birthday in Cambodia was very enjoyable and fun.
Helen, Jan, Carol, Maria, Oli and Channa
After preparing yummi veggi food for lunch,
little helper
Mmhh, fried Aubergines
people arrived and we ate and chatted and drank punch and played games and danced.
Parim gave me blingy earrings
Maria and Evic
Chantra likes the punch
too much Coka maybe...
Channa entertains the guest with the game: o'puck-m'dai
my lovely friends Sareth, Srey-mom and Parim
I wish ......
In the evening, we were invited to go to Channas girlfriends brother's wedding.
Channa and his girlfriend
There we had more fun and booze.
Jan and Carol
Maria
I like my new watch!
29 and blingy!
plenty of live music at the wedding
Kakadaa and me
Antji, I love your yellow silk scarf!
Because it was Oli's first visit to Stung Treng, I showed him around a little.
But as always there is never enough time when you enjoy most.
Oli at our office
Oli visits the RTC
showing Oli around at the RTC
footi at the RTC
In the evening, my neighbour friends came around. It felt special, because although I know them now nearly for a year because of English teaching and I've been to their recent funeral, they've never been to my House before. And we only live 5 Houses apart.
Afterparty with Mino, Vandy and her girls and her sister on my balcony
in Stung Treng, Sun set over the Sekong
And thank you again for all your lovely birthday letters, e-mails and calls. It meant a lot to me and makes me still feel connected with the other side of the world! X x x K
outside my house
it was looking for lunch I think
written by  katja-horsch on March 11, 2010 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: My 29th Birthday

visitors from Germany
oh nein, Mittelgang und kleine Plastestuehle obwohl wir Fahrkarten haben...auf dem Weg von ST nach Kratie...
The other very exiting thing that happend before Doerti and Ines arrived was: meeting the parents! Oli's parents came to visit him for about 3 weeks and they travelled around a lot.
Oli with his parents infront of the Pavillion
They even helped Oli and Alison cleaning the hospital beds in Thmar Pouk hospital for an Infection Control assessment. It was lovely meeting them. We had a day together before the girls arrived and we visited the Royal Palace and we went to Toul Sleng.
Oli, Phillida, David and myself eating lunch in "Friends"
I am very much looking forward to see them again in Summer.
also wie kommen wir noch mal nach Thailand?
on Monivong Boulevard in Phnom Penh
in the Royal Palace, cool shorts!
And then on the 30th of January in the evening, they finally arrived. Tired, in winter clothes, full of luggage. But very happy too. I couldn't believe it. They were there, here in Cambodia together with me! I was also so happy and in shock for a while as I just could not get it. We then went back to the Pavillion where we met the others for a drink and then we went to bed.
The next morning, we had breakfast together
ein herrliches Fruehstueck im Pavillion
and then we went to see the Royal Palace.
Chum-Riep-Sur, wir sind die beiden bong-sreys!
and CHEESE!
After lunch
zum Mittag gab's Vietnamesische Nudelsuppe
we walked over to the National Museum.
beim National Museum in Phnom Penh
ja ja, der Jet-lag!
On the next day, we got a cyclo to see first Toul Sleng and then the Russian Market.
Doerti in her cyclo
Ines arrives at the Russian market in her cyclo
The Cambodian Anne Frank (younger a witness and older a writer)
a little refreshment please!
In the evening we were able to pick up our " Khmer Princess" Photos!
Princess Ines
Queen Doerti
this is Georgi
die drei Grazien
And then, we took the minivan up to Stung Treng. We arrived early in the morning, so that we had time, to visit the orphanage in Thalla Borivat. Caro who also lives and works here in Stung Treng showed us around.
fuer das Waisenhaus sammelt Doerti auf ihrer Geburtstagsparty Spenden
das Waisenhaus in Thalla Borivat
der brandneue Brunnen!
Caro von Beebob hat uns rumgefuehrt
Waesche waschplatz am Waisenhaus
Caro und Ines auf dem Weg zurueck von Thalla nach ST im selbstgebauten Tuk-Tuk
Mami hat mir leckere geschmolzene Yogorette geschickt!
A bunch of German and Austrian people have moved recently to Stung Treng and support the orphange. The project is called Beebob. Doerti and Ines thought of the orphans and brought a lot of toys and sweets for them. The kids were very greatful.
Doerti did a birthday party for her 30th birthday and raised more then $300 for this orphanage. It was good for her to see it. Read more about it on: http://beebob-hilfe.de
In the afternoon, we visited the hospital and Doerti and Ines handed over the toys, they brought for the poor children there.
after delivering the toys at the pediatric ward, Dr. Ingran was very happy about that, and even more happy were the children!
Then came the night. Both stayed in my house because they wanted to. I think for them it was the most horrible night. Doerti and me slept in my little bed together while Ines slept on the floor. I think the worst thing was the bathroom for them. But in the end they did it and can be proud of themselves. But no wonder that they agreed to move on the next day already to Kratie.
In the morning, I showed them first my RTC.
auf dem Weg zu meinem Haus
eigentlich haette ich da auch noch raufgepasst
ein Snack und ein Chat mit Nari im RTC
Hebammenstudenten bereiten sich auf die Pruefung vor
Doerti und Ines auf dem Gelaende des RTC's in Stung Treng
auf dem Weg zur Busstation in Stung Treng
Busticket gekauft. Jetzt muss der Bus nur noch kommen.
auf den Bus nach Kratie haben wir nur 2 1/2 Stunden warten muessen
After a not so nice bus ride, we just about arrived for the spectacular Kratie sunset. With a little bit of luck, we also got a room in the "Balcony".
the sunset in Kratie is all the hussle worth it
I don't take drugs!
unser kleines Nest in "the Balcony" - 3 in einem Bett
ein schoener Ausblick zum Fruehstueck
The next day, we went over by boat to the other side of the river where there is a desert like sandy beach, now that it's dry season.
einmal uebern Fluss rueber
Kuckuck!
uebers Wasser mit diesen jungen Bullen
auf der anderen Seite des Flusses, in der Trockenzeit eine Wuestenlandschaft
Doerti unter Palmen
baeuerliche Idylle
laufen oder radeln? Laufen, alle Fahrraeder sind schon vermietet.
wo ist der Deinhard?
how idyllic
waiting for the boat to bring us back
It was a particularly hot day.
In the evening we moved from the balcony to Abi's house. She kindly offered us accommodation for one night as the balcony didn't have any more rooms for us.
Rocky was born in my room in Stung Treng but lives now in Kratie with Abi.
look how big Rocky Lobster is!
In the afternoon, we did a trip to the rapids of Kampi and the dolphins. Because of Chinese New Year, the place was packed. It was like a Volksfest.
In Kratie, we stayed with lovely Abi
Kampi near Kratie - the retreat for Khmer people
Ines had also a little dip in the water
the rapids in Kampi - the clearest water I've seen so far
of course you have to dip in with your clothes on!
Chinese New Year celebrated in Kampi by Khmer people rather excessive
we met Hacki and the others there
We then choose the sunset to look at the dolphins. It was absolutely beautiful.
da ist wieder einer!
Sunset in Kratie over the Mekong - the red sun falling...
die Sonne ist fast untergegangen
wir haben ein paar Delphine ganz nah gesehen
And then, we went to Siem Riep. I was surprised about myself how good my Khmei was when I was arguing with a Khmer guy at a bus stop in the middle of nowhere where we had been dropped by our minivan half way through the journey. Anyway, we got there in the end, but again not in the most comfortable position.
juckel, juckel - ein voller Bus von Skun nach Siem Riep - sehr unbequem
We stayed one night in Smileys, where we met up with Oli.
mein Dolphin Boy, the one and only!
In the evening, we went out for a drink and we hit the Karaoke place.
girls just wanna have fu-un...
ok, ich trink auch einen Gin&Tonic
my sweetylein
the happiness is visible in my face I think
im Karaokeschuppen in Siem Riep
The next day, we checked in to the 'Terrasse des elephants' and went shopping!
Doerti und Ines in Smilys mit Lucky
auf dem Markt in Siem Riep
und was fuer ein schicker Hut das ist!
ok, also, zwei gruene, drei blaue, vier gelbe und zwei rote T-shirts...
mondaen und tres chique unsere Doerti!
relaxen am Pool auf der Dachterrasse Terrasse des Elephants
Oh, sa-at!
along the river in Siem Riep, looking for some food!
So viele tausend Riel!!!
Ines Bwwwwwww-Spiel hat uns viel Spass gegeben
Doerti liest das Buch: Hurra - Endlich Nichtraucher!
our little hide-away balcony
We've been to the Temple Bar and seen the traditional Apsara dancing.
Apsara dancer in Temple bar
yes, for me it's the last time in the Temple bar too
Ines has her dress changed at the local tailor
this Chinese cat waved at me all the time!
waiting for the adjustments in a red robe
Kambotschanisches Fruehstueck mit westlichem Einfluss
soviel Reis, da kann man sich garnicht entscheiden!
We've also participated in a cooking class which was very nice. The food we cooked was divine.
Ready Steady Cook!
immer ordentlich stampfen!
eine kleine Kochfee
here are our fresh and fried spring rolls, mango salad, vegetable amok and chicken curry, all handmade!
this is how to make proper curry paste!
our green bean and pumpkin desert with sago
what you need for Cambodian cooking!
Ines made us get up in the dark to see the sunrise over Angkor Wat. It was at first very difficult to get up, but then like always, it was all worth it.
Morgenstimmung in Angkor Wat
wir waren fast die einzigen ganz oben auf Ankgor Wat, als die Sonne aufging
the misty morning at Angkor Wat
a unique experience
It was worth it to get up so early.
Ueber Bayon geht die Sonne auf
na? K.O.?
at Ta Prom
Dschungel Temple Ta Prom
on the way up to the underwater carvings
Ines and Doerti at the waterfall which has very little water compared to rainy season
a fallen butterfly : (
Love it here!
Im Nordwesten von Kambotscha gibts noch dichten Dschungel
on the way to Spean Kaball
We had an amazing day at Angkor Wat and much more pictures where taken. I suppose for me it was also the last time to hang around there.
cocktail night in Siem Riep, yes please!
uh! Lady!
Ines likes her ice-cream!
a last 'Cafe tuk-tuk ko tuk-gkor'
They were here and we had a fantastic time. I'd wish, they could come back next weekend!!!
written by  katja-horsch on March 14, 2011 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: visitors from Germany

Thailand in April
Bangkok, Thailand
OMG. Did I say in my last blog that we are going to Thailand to escape the madness from Cambodia over Khmer New Year? Well, we didn't really expect THIS for Thai New Year! Pure Madness!
We started our journey form Siem Riep where we then booked a bus to take us to the border in Poipet. There we walked over the border, along the huge casinos in no-mans-land.
Then it was a rather comfortable mini van ride to Bangkok. It took all day though and we arrived in Bangkok after sunset.
We booked us into a little Guest House (LampuHouse, recommendable), which is basically not far from the well known party street: Khor San Road.
our guest house in Bangkok
Already when we arrived, there was no way of staying dry.
People, tourists and locals, were pouring buckets of water over every pedestrian or were involved in heavy water pistol fights. Gosh, everyone had a water pistol. And of course no small ones, no giant ones!
madness on Kroh-San street
tourists with water pistols
On our first stroll at night we not only got dripping wet, but also marked in our face, arms, clothes, everywhere, with a paste made of flour and water. I got really angry when they threw a bucket of ice cold water at Oli still with a can of beer in it which hit him hard on his back.
wet, smeared and hurt by this bottle of Heinecken
no one stays dry
During the night I got sick. D+V for 24 hours, the worst I ever had. I suspect it came from something I ate at the border.
I ordered Oli to get me a course of Antibiotics and so after 3 days I was more or less fit again. So we did some sightseeing in Bangkok and what I saw was really impressive. I really liked Bangkok, apart from the water madness!
one of many Thai spirit houses on the street
a giant checked duck
Island dance in Bangkok
she was from Maui
the strong lads
So we did travel on the river, rode the sky-train
waiting for the Sky train
visited the Royal Palace, ate delicious food and even met Tom Cruise!
who is more handsome...
at the impressive Royal Palace in Bangkok
my new hat especially bought for visiting the Royal Palace
the air smelled of perfumed candle oil and incent sticks
she had hair that reached to her knees
making little sand castles
blessing the Buddas on Thai New Year
the biggest Budda in South-East Asia apparently
After 3 days we took the bus to Pattaya. Of the party crowd had to follow us from the capital and it actually got worse. Whole trucks full of water drove along the streets with people on it, ready to give you the full blast with big water pipes.
also a victim of getting blessed
Fortunately we booked ourselves into a lovely and quiet little bungalow resort and we could really relax once we were there.
at least some privicy in Le-Prive
there was an Elephant shower
nice pool.. all to ourselves
at least some beautiful Thai art
But the actual reason we came to Pattaya was for me to do the bungee jump. So on Saturday afternoon we got picked up and brought to "Jungle Bungee jump".
Looking forward to it...
OMG, do I really want to do it?
I payed my 2000 Baht and then went to the jump teacher. He took my weight and then put really tight bandages around my lower legs. They were so tight that it really hurt!
putting it so tight that it hurt
It all went very fast and I mean it is not difficult to know what to do when you do Bungee jumping but I must say at this point I felt a little nervous.
Never the less, I got up and hoppled towards the lift.
very very tight bandages around my calves which saved my life
you could also choose the option of dipping your fingertips into the pool
The crane was 60 meter high and as soon as I realised that this is for real now, I was already on my way up.
up it goes!
looking still forward to it!
Up there, it was quite windy. Nice view, looking down no problem. I could see Oli with the camera, taking a video of me.
nice view from the top of the crane
ok, I'll do it!
not so sure anymore...
But then it kicked in. Jumping down? Blimey, I felt a little trapped as I knew now there is no way back. The palms of my hands got really sweaty, my mouth got so dry! And the guy with me just said now I count until 3 and then you let yourself fall forward. Easy!
It took me another 3 minutes up there to overcome my fear but then I thought that Oli is waiting and the battery of the camera might run out soon and I thought that I have trust in this rope that is tied around my legs and nothing will happen. So I just let myself fall down.
ahhhhhh!
juchhu!
It was a terrifying experience. I still can feel it when I am writing now about it. It doesn't take long though. But it is such a relief when the rope caught up and I started to bounce up and down. It really felt good.
what a feeling!
achja!
Then after hanging for a little while upside down they got a long stick and I grabbed it and they pulled my down and onto a mattress. There I lay and couldn't stop laughing.
I want to do it again!
I am so glad it all went well...
yes, landed safely
It really gave me a confidence boost. I feel like I can do everything now, because I was brave enough to do a bungee jump.
This is the evidence!
After all this adrenaline-high, we still hadn't got enough and threw ourselves in the evening into the never stopping party crowd at the well-known 'Walking-Street'.
the (famous?) Walking Street in Pattaya
There, we drank ice-cold vodka in a bar which was freezing and full of ice-blocks
say Prost in the Ice-bar with ice-cold vodka shots
freezing cold in there!
, we witnessed brutal Thai-Kick Boxing and afterwards some snake action that made me scream
first Thai Kick boxing, then crazy snake action!
and I made Oli smoke Chicha
what will your parents say...
smoking Hubbly-Bubbly
and afterwards a Rodeo ride
Yes, and Oli was brave enough to do the Rodeo!
. The long evening faded out in a dodgy cocktail bar with some football on.
Thai beer, good!
recovery time
Oli's favourite book on this holiday
Pattaya also had a beach and some good ice-cream. Otherwise I hope to go to some nicer places once we are in Thailand again.
written by  katja-horsch on April 29, 2011 from Bangkok, Thailand
from the travel blog: Thailand in April

Mekong River Swim and vegetarian delights
did it in 19 minutes and 38 seconds!
(This text is written by Oliver Shipp)
The chocolaty Mekong oozes its way through Cambodia towards Phnom Penh, supporting riverside communities and picturesque boats. It is impressive, photogenic, even beautiful. But would you really want to bathe in it?
this is how I felt
this is how Oli felt
Daring VSO volunteers Katja, John and Adrian defied tradition, intuition (and medical wisdom) to successfully swim nearly a kilometre across the mighty, murky river.
I swam like this
our numbers
Surprisingly, they weren’t alone in this questionable weekend pursuit. No less than 164 brave souls stripped off and plunged into the muddy depths as part of this year’s Mekong River Swim.
I'm doping myself
getting all ready and pumped up!
From the relative safety of the wobbly wooden Mekong Flower support boat, Ella and Oly were watching, wondering, and waving the VSO flag. Whatever nasties coated the swimmers, all that was on the spectators’ lips was one question: Why?
Oli with Sarah's sunglasses
excitement before the start
The event was too late to be an April fool. Hardy adventurers that they are, it seems the challenge of traversing one of the world’s great rivers was reason enough.
In fairness, the swim was also promoted by VolCom, as part of its ‘events’ role to bring together the volunteer community. Katja’s bright red VSO t-shirt also provided positive publicity, as well as a useful marker for the hovering rescue boats.
can you spot me?
I'm giving my best breast stroke here
It was also a fun social event, mainly for the Phnom Penh ex-pat community, but with a sprinkling of local support too. And it was for a good cause – proceeds this year will help rebuild a school in Ofunato, Japan, destroyed by the recent tsunami. It is an interesting turn of events that funds are being raised in still-developing Cambodia to help one of the world’s richest countries. (There has been no confirmation of the rumour that next year proceeds will help Britain’s cash-strapped health service).
putting on my visibility cap, just in case i drowned, they could identify me with it
Happily all three brave volunteers made it across intact. Hopefully the chosen crossing point from Prek Leap Agricultural College was far enough upstream to avoid the worst of the city’s unregulated drainage – certainly at the time of writing their consumption of Mekong water has not been definitively linked with any subsequent hospitalizations.
apart from swallowing a lot of brown water, I felt fine!
Whilst the swimmers gagged and gurgled, conversation among the spectators turned to the future of the Mekong. It’s a challenge, as communities in no less than 5 countries depend on the river, as it flows from China, through Thailand and Laos into Cambodia, and finally out into the South China Sea from Vietnam.
the VSO Mekong River Swim participants, first, second and third - I came second though
Of particular concern are plans to build more dams upstream, which will change the river forever. Admittedly the developments could provide significant, lucrative and (crucially) clean and renewable hydro-electric power.
the VSO boys
John and Oli
Adrian, myself and Sarah in the Tuk-Tuk on the way back
However, critics complain plans are being pushed through without consultation or assessment of the environmental impact. Ordinary river-dwellers are unlikely to see the benefits (reserved for government officials and foreign economies), yet will be greatly affected, being forced to change crop irrigation and their present fish-based diet.
Fortunately the organizers must be confident of the river’s future, in the short-term at least: the 16th annual Mekong River Swim is scheduled for early April 2012. Fancy a swim?
with the official Mekong Swim T-shirt
Afterwards, Oli had his first Cambodian shave on the street.
someone had a proper shave there...
everything will be fine!
careful on the throat there!
song ha nah!
first time Cambodian shave
And we celebrated Danny's leaving do in Phnom Penh together with other volunteers.
good red wine!
John was in top form that night - what love does to you...
Oli and Emily
The last out of 3 glasses full of mixers for John, with Danny, Sam and Oli
at the 'elsewhere party' in Phnom Penh
knyom srolaing nek!
boys and their idols...
Text written by me and published in our local VSO volunteer magazine:
What's love got to do with it?
I never thought I would write an article about food. But now I think about it every day!
I don’t want to lecture or sound like someone who knows it all. I just want to share my thoughts with you, and perhaps it will trigger something in you that will affect you for life.
When my sister gave up meat I remember making fun of her. When she was grumpy I said it was because she needed bratwurst! Now I feel ashamed of what I said, especially when I hear similarly ill-informed comments made by my family and even some of my friends.
Today I celebrate having been veggie for a year. This is largely thanks to Oly, who quit eating meat and fish as a rebellious teenager, and who finally helped me to do what I always wanted but didn’t know how.
So why have I chosen to quit eating meat and fish? You know why: for love!
Dragon-fruit anyone?
Firstly, I love animals. I love the calm cows, the pink pigs, the fast chickens, the beautiful creatures who live in the Mekong and the sea. And I don’t kill things I love (or get someone else to kill them for me). And I try really hard not to cause pain to those I love and not causing pain is the biggest issue for me. Do those pig screams when they are slaughtered not make you feel something? We live in a Buddhist country, so we should be familiar with respect for animals, and I wish even more people would put such precious beliefs into practice (including the restaurant which just opened in front of my house, where they tether a young cow to a stake each morning, later to kill and roast him on a spit by the road – it breaks my heart every day).
Secondly, I love my life, and I feel far healthier as a veggie. As a health worker I am now very aware of the growing body of evidence connecting diet to health. Human beings don’t need to eat meat or fish. I am very happy to be avoiding meat, with its links to heart disease and cancers of the bowel and stomach. Interestingly, even the most recent issue of Medinews from MEDICAM Cambodia reported that meat and fish are linked to bowel disease. I am also pleased to have a lower risk of food poisoning and worms, improved digestion, and better breath! And I am delighted to be eating more healthy food, tasty tofu and nuts. I am now much more food-aware, and enjoy buying, sometimes cooking and eating delicious dishes. I live with a Cambodian family, and I’m thrilled to say that they started to cook and eat veggie food with me, with mouthwatering results!
Thirdly, I love the planet, and I am convinced that stopping meat-eating is the single most important thing most of us can do to reduce climate change. I understand that a veggie diet is hugely more energy efficient, a meaty one much more wasteful. I want my children to have children to have children to have children. If we don’t dramatically cut demand for meat we will destroy our future.
Over Christmas I was reading a moving and gripping book by Jonathan Safran Foer called Eating Animals. It is brilliantly written and full of great stories – but it is not fiction. If you are brave and honest enough to read it, it may well change your views and your life.
For example, do you think it is wrong to eat dogs? Foer explores this difficult issue, asking how it could be morally different from killing chickens or cows. He exposes the terrible cruelty which is inevitable in producing meat, but which most of us (me included) try to pretend doesn’t happen. And he concludes, like me, that for many many reasons the right thing to do is to go veggie.
Maybe I can compare giving up eating meat to giving up smoking. It is very hard at the beginning. The temptation to lapse back to the bad old habits, to give in to peer pressure. Sometimes people seemed almost scared to see me do the right thing in case it left them exposed. Often people want to find a reason to justify their habits, rather than having to change.
Here in Cambodia it’s actually quite easy to go veggie. There are good supplies of delicious fruit and veg, cereals and nuts, even in most rural areas. If you want to eat eggs they are everywhere, and you can often find milk or soya products like various tofu if you want.
And you won’t be alone! I have never met as many vegetarians as here in the VSO community in Cambodia. I love to go out to eat in lots of meat-free restaurants in Phnom Penh and Siem Riep. My friend from home also posts me trashy women’s mags and it’s reassuring to read that so many celebrities are role modeling by being veggie.
This photo shoot took place in Carols house.
But as I say, I don’t want to preach, and I don’t have all the answers. For example, I love animals, most of all the gorgeous kittens I adopted. But cats, unlike us, can’t live happily without flesh. Yet if I feed them meat or fish, I will be part of killing another creature. It makes me sad and uncomfortable, but I don’t know what else I can do. This is an ongoing dilemma for me.
Fortunately, we humans don’t have that problem – we can choose what we do. And all of us make a choice, every day, even if we try to ignore it – either we eat meat, or we go veggie. For our love of other creatures, of ourselves, of our planet, it’s clear to me that I made the right choice. Why don’t you join me?
written by  katja-horsch on April 28, 2011 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: Mekong River Swim and vegetarian delights

Weddings in Stung Treng 2011 and some good news!
Where are the Twiglets?
On the 29th was the Royal Wedding in the UK and although I don't have a telly, I heard all about it from the other volunteers because it was in the media non stop for weeks.
The Phnom Penh VSO volunteers sent an e-mail around to invite to a Royal Wedding party and it said they even invited the British Ambassador (which was a joke I found out later).
Us in Stung Treng then thought, we also should have a Royal Wedding party as it is such a big event! So Linda prepared her House, Anthony prepared a special Royal Wedding Pup Quiz and I provided the prize. Everyone brought snacks and beer and then we dressed all up for the special occasion and hung in front of the telly, admiring the brides dress and getting an English atmosphere here in Stung Treng.
did they kiss already?
Good afternoon Kate and Will!
I heard that all the other provinces also did Royal Wedding parties.
Angela, Ant, Thea, Carol, Maria, Linda, Wendy and Chris
... two massive wooden thai massage sticks!
and the winner of the pub quiz gets...
Well done, Carol!
The other good news is, that I had a successful Skype-interview with Oxford Brookes University and they accepted me for doing the short midwifery course starting in September. I was overwhelmed with joy! I am going to become a midwife!!!
Kerb is one of the experienced Dolphin Boys
At the same weekend, Abi asked me to come to Kratie to help her to take pictures of the 'Kratie Dolphin Boys' as she was allocated to be the official Dolphin-Boy calendar 2012 photographer. Of course I didn't say no! What an opportunity! It was fantastic!
First of all I love to stay with Abi as she is a great friend of me and it's always like holiday being with her. Then she has Rock Lobster, who was born in my room in Stung Treng!
Abi and I trying out the camera
with Rock Lobster
georgous girls
All the photos we took I can't show now and they will be released in the next years calender which will be available at the end of this year. But I can show some impressions from the great afternoon we had at Kampi with the very fit and hot Kratie Dolphin Boys.
aehm, these Tuk-Tuk drivers didn't make it onto the calendar, sorry...
waiting in the warm clear water..
feeling hot hot hot...
Huk is also an experienced Dolphin Boy and has done it many times before
handsome Huk
Beer really helped us and the boys for some really good shots
getting into the mood
Joe gives Hukki some advise on his pose
the Kampi-rapids were very fast
the money from this calendar goes to support the remaining dolphins in Kratie
the dolphin boy and his mermaid
last check in the mirrow
waiting for their turn
handsome Dara
I'm doing some spritz effect for the photo
with Kerb, Abi and Joe in the Tuk-Tuk
And finally, on the 7th of May was the day, my Cambodian family had waited for a long long time for. It was the wedding day of my oldest Cambodian sister Peach.
Peach on her wedding day
It was an arranged wedding and the deal was made shortly after her birth. She was going to marry Andy, a man her same age (21), who grew up in America after his parents managed to flew from Cambodia before the Pol Pot invasion in 1975.
He said to me: "Next time I am going to have an American wedding."
He can hardly speak any Cambodian and everything was very strange for him here. His family felt pity with my family but somehow on the actual wedding day everybody was very happy.
Tida and her friend.
We all got white make-up on to make us look more sa-at.
Look at these fake eyelashes!
my special made wedding top cost $50!
Poor Rith had to cook for all the guests behind the house.
a last quick shoes polish...
Everything started very early of course, that is the annoying thing about Cambodian weddings. At 4 am the monks start chanting through loudspeakers so that the whole town can hear it. The happy couple then gives promises back and forth over the microphone that everyone can hear it. Then everyone gets ready for the first ceremony outside.
Both families walking towards each other and they exchange flower necklaces.
They were wearing traditional costumes for each procedure. All day was into the clothes, out of them, in, out, in, out... Fascinating.
proud Vandy and Papa
Then the first official photo shoot and the present exchanging with the parents.
both twin sisters, Andy and I
lots of funny looking wedding presents
Until we finally had BorBor (Rice soup) at around 9am.
Then we witnessed the haircutting ceremony where hair got cut off symbolically and then given to the good spirits.
the proud parents
the stunning bride this time in pink
looking from below and from above
Peach and Andy
with Nana and Touch, the sister of the bride
lots of clothes, what choice!
Then came the procedure where the bride washes the feet of her husband.
the groom with his best men waiting for the bride to wash his feet
it was very hot all day...
Then something like a knife dance was performed.
this is David, our happy restaurant baby
Andy and Peach, the happy couple.
And then the morning was finished and everyone had a rest. In the afternoon, we were all busy to get ready for the fun part of the wedding, the party in the evening!
under my room
Vandy and her sister getting make-up
Peach with her final? hairdress
waiting for the guests to arrive
Vandy looked amazing that day
Beautiful Rek-Smey and I
Nana liked Rek-smey
and another one of Nana and me
Peach and me in her welcoming dress for the guests
And finally at around 7pm, my friends arrived and we all sat around one table and ate and drank and talked and danced as well.
Caro, Pauline und ich
Angela trying to eat her chicken drum with spoon and chopsticks
the old man from next door
They both looked very happy at the end of the day.
good posing!
oh they had fun with each other
Nana and I
the pink ladies
After the food, the happy couple went to the fruit table to do one last ceremony - feeding each other and the parents fruit, before the party exploded!
feeding lychees to each other
couple dance!
Papa and Vandy, relieved that it is all over now
Josh und Caro schwingen das Tanzbein
Carol and Maria
Angela and Chris
Josh und Caro
Ich hoffe es geht Euch allen gut! Viele Kuesse und Umarmungen von Eurer Katja!
from the travel blog: Weddings in Stung Treng 2011

end of August, beginning of September 09
Now, Channa has Malaria. He complained about neck-stiffness and fever. When I found out I sent him immediately to the doctor and he has not only malaria but also typhoid fever. He is a tough cookie, he had injections yesterday and today and wanted to come back to work tomorrow. I refused to have him back for the rest of the week.
Yesterday I started to give the teachers in the RTC lessons for the first time. I do that now every day from 16:30 – 17:30. We have two groups, one group for Baby-English, one for advanced English. So far so good. It’s really fun. I really like it very much. The groups are not big and that is nice, so it is very participatory.
I like to prepare the lessons and when I develop a photocopy, I put a picture of England or Germany on it.
On Thursdays and Fridays, I also teach my neighbours girls English from 18:30 –19:30. I really like that and I have the feeling, I give something to individuals who benefit from it hopefully at some point.
Otherwise my days are a little bit dull. Getting up early in the morning, sitting in the RTC from 7:30 – 11:30, then going home for lunch, shower, nap, back to work at 14:15 –17:30, then usually home, shower, dinner, DVD, shower, bed, reading, lights out at 22:00. Because I’m on my own it is just uneventful. I never thought it would be like that, but it is. Well, we have nearly September and in October, my ICT starts and I’ll meet more new volunteers and that will hopefully give me new energy.
I think, that live is so much more worth if I can share moments and experiences with somebody else.
On the other side it is good to spend so much time in the RTC. I have the feeling to be on top of things and also that I’m doing what I can at the moment.
Well, generally I am over my low point now, I think.
On Saturday, I usually have my 3 student nurses at home around lunchtime. One weekend I cooked my very famous Thai curry and the other weekend, they said they will bring something around. So they did. And we had a feast of Khmei soup and we had a small party and invited Delia as well. It was fun. Then after lunch we usually watch a DVD on my laptop, of course action film, and then they have to go to study.
Srey-mom, Delia, Sareth and Parim
So the last time they came around they told me that they never’ve been to Phnom Penh. I couldn’t believe that. Because they are Cambodians.
But because of money shortness they could never afford it. They really wanted to go though one day, so I said, why don’t we go together? I will help out with the tickets and we hopefully find a cheap place to stay.
They were so exited! But me too. I am really looking forward to that trip, so we’ll go on the 18th – 21st of September. That will be also a nice break for me, finally.
Sareth, Parim me and Srey-mom
On one Sunday I asked Chantra, to show me the place where you can spot Dolphins here in ST. So he took me at 8am in the morning to a place, in fact a school, where he taught in the past. It was a beautiful morning, lush green forest apparently with monkeys until a few years ago, and so we waited at that little beach at the Mekong river for them.
But no Dolphin appeared. Third time unlucky.
Will I ever see them?
Afterwards we went to a place where people made traditional wooden sculptures, which was interesting.
students at work
wooden art, it took around 10 days
Then Chantra showed me his little farm
Chantras farm
where he raises fish and grows vegetables to sell them at the market.
Chantras pond for growing fish
There I had my first taste of wild freighted frog because one of the farmers cooked them for lunch.
poor things
It just smelled really delicious, so I tried and there were really tasty. Like chicken. Would eat them again probably.
they smelled delicious
On the way back through the wood we saw 2 big snakes, gosh that was scary and lots of pineapple plantages.
Otherwise the rainy season has fully started now. It rains nearly all day at the moment and that is inconvenient with white trousers, cycling to the RTC. Fortunately I got those ‘Crocks’ like shoes before I left and they are worth gold now. The water for washing clothes and flushing toilet I actually save in buckets at the moment. So less to pay water bill.
my favorite Cambodian animal, the waterbuffalo
a maybe pregnant Waterbuffalo
What else?
I spent a lot of money on a few shopping trips over the past weekends in Stung Treng market. I bought 4 blouses there
my new blouse
, and also I went to a tailor to make a “Sompot” for me. That is a traditional long skirt, made from silk like material and you can get it in different colours. Mine is lila-pink and has a golden pattern at the end. Cambodians wear it for special occasions, and I bought mine for my first placement meeting with Daniel and the director from the RTC.
That will take place on the 10th of September, tomorrow and I have to make a presentation about my achievements and failures so far, and we have a Annual Work Plan to update and discuss, which then need to be followed for the next 12 month. So I prepared a lot of things for that and it kept me busy.
Balloons seller at ST market as well as a sugar cane seller behind it
The other thing I am really happy about is that Vanny, Delias cleaning lady is a very good tailor too. So she adjusted a few clothes for me which were too big for me after having lost some weight since being here. Delia gives her own clothes to her and Vanny copies them with nice looking material.
I should do that too. It is so cheap and quite good quality.
on my balcony
With Delia I meet up usually on Saturday mornings for breakfast at the market and then we have our toenails painted at a special place where I get to know the people already slowly. I’d never thought of doing that in England, but here it is just something, people do. Women walk in their pyjamas in daylight on the markets and have their nails done. And it is a very good business. It’s supporting Cambodians and getting to know them and the other way around of course. Even very little children sit in the little stalls, have their toe and fingernails painted red.
Delia and me, having iced-coffee after the nails got painted
Then I usually get some food for the week at the market. I usually buy cabbage, peppers, carrots, aubergines and green leafs for a veg stir fry and then I usually have a look for a ripe papaya and dragon fruit. I never tasted papaya before, but here I have learned to love it. Then, usually Sareth, Parim and Srey-mom come. They want to call me Bong, which means Sister. I like it. We have grown closer now. We talk honestly and they ask me serious questions. I also find out a lot about Cambodians that way.
In the RTC I am doing ongoing supervision with the teachers and they seem to be ok with it now. Lately, I observed one of my favourite teachers, Mr. Sokhouen, in class, demonstrating a practical skill, ‘Indwelling Catheter insertion’. The problem was, that although the RTC has dummies, they don’t have enough material like catheters or sterile gloves. So they have to improvise and that is sometimes tricky. After his demonstration, some students take the used gloves out of the bin, re-powder them for the next demonstration. They re-use every single thing until it’s completely not useable any more. Then they start to practise.
Afterwards I gave Mr. Sokhouen feedback about his performance and also suggestions, how he could improve his teaching.
The English lessons for the teachers are a success and even if there are only a few people, I think it is still worth it to teach them. And the ones who come are very enthusiastic and keen and they actually learn something.
8 years after the New York Ground Zero.
Yesterday I finally had my 3 month review.
the evening Daniel came, all volunteers ate out
It was ok, when Daniel asked the present staff ( Clinical instructors) if they know what my role is and why I am there, they couldn’t answer it. Because they actually don’t know. I found that quite funny. Seeing them every day, building up a relationship and they don’t know what I am doing there! Well, I told them then and also about achievements and failures so far. We reviewed objectives from last year and set new ones.
me, Daniel, Hor and Channa at my 3 month meeting
One thing I am particularly exited about is, I had the idea of producing a film for equal learning outcome. Basically I want to film each procedure ( most likely with my camera, a low budget film production : )) , a student needs to learn here in Cambodia to pass the exam. And there are around 24 different clinical skills/ procedures, a nursing student learns in 3 years training. That will be easier to support the teachers, who will get a good teaching material and also some confusion about how to do things hopefully will be erased.
So that is one activity related to one objective, we discussed in that meeting.
But before we can start this really exiting project, we have to go through a rather dry one. Because another activity will be to re-translate the nursing curriculum to find mistakes in the translation to prevent more wrong teaching. And that will take it’s time…
Altogether we set 6 objectives, for me to work on in order to support the RTC. I don’t want to bore you with details, it might be also too dry. Anyway, this work plan with the objectives lasts for one year and will be reviewed next year and updated.
Having had severe hair loss and maybe worms, I am still alive.
Talking about health, I would like to share some information with you:
The 2008 population of Cambodia is approx. 13.3 million, about 80% of whom live in rural areas. Although still very much a least developed country, economic growth over the 1994-2004 period averaged 7% per annum and the proportion of people living below the poverty line declined from 47% to 35%. As a result of a massive ‘baby boom’ from the 1980 through the mid 1990’s, the country has an extremely young demographic structure, with almost two thirds of the population under the age of 30. The first wave of ‘baby boomers’ are now in their early 20’s and generation a second, smaller ‘boom’ as they marry and start families. Consequently, despite a steadily decreasing total fertility rate, the crude birth rate is a high 25.6 per 1.000.
a empty house in Stung Treng
Most of the population is engaged in subsistence agriculture ( rice farming) but this is already starting to change with more non-agricultural employment seen among those under the age of 30 then in the older age groups. The reach of mass media- television and radio, in that order- is substantial; more than two thirds of all Cambodians watch TV at least once a week; among youth aged 15-24 years, half watch TV daily.
Although the level of education is low by international standards, it is significantly higher than in the recent past. 57.8% of 15-19 year olds have completed primary school, a more than 20%age point increase over the age group immediately ahead of them, and a huge difference when compared to less than 10 percent of persons aged 40 and over.
Equally important, this gain is basic education has been equitable and a formerly pronounced gender gap is rapidly closing. For the age group 20 to 24 years the female: male ratio for completion of primary school is 0.68, whereas for the age group 15-19years it has risen to .92. These trends seem certain to continue; the net attendance ratio for primary school is at an all-time high and the gender parity index for primary school attendance is now 1.02. Although males still outnumber females with respect to secondary schooling, that gap has significantly narrowed in recent years as well.
a department for ? in Stung Treng
The average age of marriage is 20 for women and 22 for men and has remained virtually unchanged over the past decade. There has also been little change in the median age at first birth, which remains about 21-22 years. However, while having a child immediately after getting married was once taken for granted, there are signs that young couples are starting to plan the onset of child-bearing in addition to overall family since, as indicated by the percentage of young married women with no children who say they want to wait 2 or more years before becoming pregnant: less than 10% in 1998, 14.5% in 2000 and 18.3% in 2005.
Fertility and infant and child mortality decreased significantly in Cambodia between 2000 and 2005, along with a noticeable improvement in intermediate indicators as child immunization and contraceptive prevalence. However, at 84/ 1.000 live births, the under 5 death rate is still one of the highest in Southeast Asia, and maternal mortality has shown no improvement at a very high 472 deaths per 100.000 live births. Progress has been made in curtailing new transmission of HIV but the epidemic is far from over and transmission from mother to child remains a neglected area in terms of prevention.
Tuberculosis remains hyper-endemic, affecting approx. 225 per 100.000 of the population.
Dengue fever is endemic with major outbreaks occurring every 2-3 years.
Malaria is endemic in the more remote, forested parts of the country. The population remains vulnerable to unpredictable out-breaks of other infectious diseases such as SARS, avian influenza ( AI) and other respiratory infections.
Public Health System
The Ministry of Health (MOH) administers health services through 24 Provincial health Departments (PHD) and 76 Operational Districts ( OD). Within each OD is a network of Health Centres ( HCs) designed to provide primary preventive and curative health services known as the ‘Minimum Package of Activities’( MPA). Although the HC’s each cover a catchment area of only about 10-15.000 people, roads are poor and distances can be considerable. Consequently, immunization and other key preventive services are provided on an outreach basis, which is supposed to occur monthly. HC’s vary in how reliably they follow this schedule and tend to perform best in areas with technical/logistical support from NGO’s or other external agencies.
a patient in the hospital corridor, in front of A+E
Supporting the HC’s is a ‘Referral Hospital’ (RH) which provides inpatient care and an expanded set of services known as the ‘Complementary Package of Activities’ (CPA). Development of the RHs to their officially designated CPA status is still a work in progress; many RHs lack surgical and blood-banking capacities and, by extension, the ability to handle obstetrical emergencies.
Weaknesses in the public sector service delivery
system include:
- inadequate financing and erratic provision of essential drugs and equipment
- Health provider incentives do not reward quality service delivery and performance; the health systems suffers from overlapping, counterproductive payment and incentive schemes and low public sector salaries leas to simultaneous practice in the private sector..
- Inadequate (numbers and skill-level) human resources at the service delivery level and inappropriate allocation of available human resources, especially midwives
- A general lack of accountability and transparency, and an organizational culture which is not merit-based or performance-oriented
- De facto autonomy of multiple vertical national programs; while this has, in some cases, been helpful in ensuring rapid action in response to specific public health needs (eg the HIV epidemic), it creates a considerable obstacle for needs that cut across administrative program lines, eg PMTCT and diagnosis/ treatment of HIV/ TB cross infection
Overall Government Hospitals perform poorly, especially in rural areas. Both service statistics and the CDHS indicate very low levels of utilization. While the previously described limited range of services available in many of the hospitals, as well as poor quality of care ( both technical and interpersonal) undoubtedly plays a role, there is data to support the common belief that financial barriers are paramount. The median health expenditure for treatment in a government hospital is $26.63 for an illness of moderate to serious severity, slightly higher than the median expense found in private hospitals. Most importantly, all but the highest socio-economic quintile experience problems in meeting this expense, as indicated by the percentage who report having taken a loan or sol an asset to finance it.
-Cambodia, Secondary analysis of the 2005 CDHS, unpublished-
some very young monks doing cleaning work at a pagoda
I miss you all very much, take good care and keep in touch.
Yours Katja
written by  katja-horsch on September 13, 2009 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: end of August, beginning of September 09

Jan & Feb 2010
On the last weekend of January ‘10, I went up to Ratanakiri to see my lovely dear friends Sareth and Srey-mom.
They are in their 3rd year of Nursing training now and have their placement in one of the Referral hospitals in Ratanakiri province.
I said I’d come up to see them, but they seemed very surprised und unprepared, once I was really there. I think, that is a Khmer thing.
The road to Ratanakiri is very bad, bumpy and very dusty. The sand on it seems to be like powder, and although being in the mini-van, my clothes were red from the fine sand after the journey.
After a good old ‘pot-lunch’, we went to Sareth’s house, which she was very shy about, because it was old. For me it wasn’t bad at all, but Sareth wanted me to stay in a guest house instead. Initially, I wanted to stay with them in the hospital, where they stay during their placement. The hospital director allows the students to stay in an empty room on a ward during their placement. They cook, sleep and live in there. Very handy during nightshift, if help is needed. They are available at all times, every day. But to stay there, Sareth and Srey-mom didn’t allow me to do so. Apparently not good enough either.
So I persisted on not staying in a guest house but in the big empty house of Sareth’s.
at Sareth's house
Her family now lives on a farm in the countryside. That’s why the house looked quiet deserted and rough.
Sareth with her family
But we decided to stay there altogether and I think it was very good for the girls to have a break from the hospital too. They’ve worked already for 3 weeks, every day, day and nightshift and they seemed very tired. Students also get used a lot here.
After a nap, we wanted to go with the moto to the lake. But suddenly the moto broke down and so we walked.
It was a long exhausting walk in the heat, then suddenly Sareths brother turned up and lead us along a small path through very thick bamboo jungle.
That was amazing and scary at the same time. We also saw a long snake, light green colour with a red head. Fortunately it run away from us.
on the way to the lake
At the lake, I wasn’t allowed to wear my swimming costume, the girls were quiet embarrassed about it. Because in Khmer culture, you go fully clothed. So I went swimming ‘Khmer style’, for the first time.
So did the girls. It was amazing. The beautiful sweet-water lake is really that journey worth it.
Then we were dripping wet and walked back home. On the way, our clothes dried fairly quickly.
just finished bathing
Being there on my own with Sareth and Srey-mom, it was like a second home stay. It felt like the real Cambodia, like the real thing.
From food ( ate yellow noodle in black water and lots of Khmer and Thai sweets) to sanitation ( I had my first wash outside with water from a ton in a sarong), things like that I wouldn’t have done even in Stung Treng.
The other new thing, I discovered, is this. I know that the people here love to eat instant noodles, me too. But I’ve never eaten those raw, uncooked. We had it as a snack, and it is tasty actually. Just open the package and dig in. “I like”, as the Cambodians say.
On Sunday, before we went to the pagoda, we visited the hospital, were the girls have their placement. It was early afternoon, and the patient rooms were moderately filled. But all the staff rooms were looked and I couldn’t see any staff.
Apparently, there was only one nurse on duty for that afternoon. After all, it was Sunday and after lunch.
The visit to the pagoda was also different, because again, the girls showed how to do it properly.
To show respect I had to borrow Sareths Mickey Mouse cardi to cover my arms for the pagoda,and then we also went up to see big Budda on the hill top.
It was so lovely to be with them. They are just so genuine and unspoilt, pure. And after I wanted to give them some money just for the rest of the placement to buy some nice food, they got really angry with me and said, they are not my friend because of money. That so much warmed my heart.
The real big event work wise was our Preceptor meeting, which was done twice for 2 different groups of Preceptors on 2 different occasions.
the second group of the Preceptors
My organisation was facilitating it and we had to prepare a lot for that and come up with good ideas.
At the end it was all worth it and a great success for the Participants and the Facilitators.
hey, listen, not chat all the time!
the VSO team Hor, Channa, Carol and me
Then we had to go back to PP for our ICT2, which is the second In-country-Training Language Update course.
Ash, Maria, Butz and Dutz with VSO shirts
It was actually 2 weeks, but because Carol and me were busy with the workshops, we could only attend for 1 week.
Mirco gives Dara our Goodbye present
our Dara, the best!
It was lovely seeing all VSO volunteers again,
Carol is having a Singapore Sling in Raffles in Phnom Penh
I had my initial 2 months ICT last year from October-December ‘09. It feels like we are related to each other.
The girls with a Famme Fatale
I also saw Oli again after a long time and with all the running experience we had previously, we thought, we also would take the chance and run the Valentines Race in PP.
Valentines run
It was very hard though because it was in the afternoon under the burning sun and on an uneven surface. But apparently I am very competitive, and so we made it and became 5th! (We had to run together as a couple).
the 5th couple!
The prize of being 5th was a really nice dinner in the Country Club in PP. We were even luckier, when our number got taken at the Lucky Draw!
a rose for Valentines day
Because completely out of the blue we won a night in a nice hotel in Siem Riep. I couldn’t believe it.
we made it!
Stung Treng
A week later, I attended to my first Khmer funeral.
The grandfather of the girls where I teach English died with 90 years.
Vandy, their mother asked me to come. We are quiet close by now, I see them regularly and they are just so lovely to me.
So in the evening, the day before the funeral, I was invited to play cards with them after I had my shower. I went around 8pm, and in their living room it was like a big party.
It was very full, the coffin in the middle of the room, where the granddad was in apparently for nearly a week. A plastic pipe was leading from the coffin into the ceiling, apparently for the bad smell. They couldn’t go ahead with the funeral earlier, because the monks said, that only the next day would be a lucky day. Lucky days are very important here, you know when it’s a lucky day because they sell Lotus flowers at the market and those days are blessed by Budda and usually you have on a lucky day either a funeral or a wedding. That day I had both.
So the next day, I was invited to come around 8 in the morning. I had no idea what was coming. Basically, the house was full of people, more and more were arriving, giving money wrapped around incense sticks and/or uncooked rice to Vandy. She gave all of them food, Borbor- Rice soup with meat. The men were together and the women were together. I was brought outside, were around 30 women prepared food and cooked in giant pots over open fire. They put a knife in my hand and made me chop meat. Then I told them that I don’t eat meat and they were laughing away. Then I was brought back into the house, where I could help decorating the coffin instead.
But it was also sitting, looking, chatting, playing with the kids, observing the atmosphere of happy Khmer people. That went on until lunchtime, were then all of us were eating rice again on the floor.
At 14.00, the ceremony continued first with some praying monks who suddenly appeared.
Then the coffin was put onto a cart
and we all went along the street until we arrived at the burning place. Peach, Touch, Reak-smey and Thida were crying a lot. I didn’t really expect that, because I thought, they don’t show such break out of their feelings. But they were really sad.
grandchildren in grief
the wood goes onto the coffin
the monks give their last prayer
Then I went to work for a couple of hours, until I got ready to go to the wedding where I was invited to by one of the Teachers of the RTC. His brother got married, I never ever met him in my life but I danced on his wedding.
my local Wat, Wat Loehr
The same weekend, I witnessed something else unusual.
in Thalla Borivat Pagoda
A Ceremony of a monk, who stepped out of Monkshood.
All VSO volunteers from Stung Treng went and my 3 friends Parim, Sareth and Srey-mom.
during the ceremony
He is the leading monk of Thalla Borivat, his name is Thoom. My VSO colleague Ferdi works with him now with an NGO called NOPAHA. Together, they manage an orphanage at a Pagoda and teach those children, who are also affected by HIV and AIDS, and try to give them a better life. They need much more funding, but it is difficult to get it. So that’s why Thoom decided, he could achieve and help much more, if he wouldn’t be a monk anymore. After 19 years of monkhood, he got ‘de-robed’.
money put on both wrists for good luck
It was a long ceremony in the pagoda and they sang a beautiful song, Thoom had written. Afterwards, we ate borbor-Ricesoup.
eating borbor at the wat
the next Prime minister
Parim, Srey-mom, knyom, Sareth
Ferdi and Jan
Parim and Sareth
Carol, Maria, Helen and Sareth on the boat
on the way back from Thalla to Stung Treng on the boat
Last weekend, I finally saw my Oli again. After a long trip from the Northeast to the Northwest of Cambodia, we met in Siem Riep and checked out our voucher, which we won at the Valentines Race. We had a fantastic time. Siem Riep is always the journey worth it. We’ve seen Angkor Wat from above
; met the director of nursing in the Angkor Hospital for Children; we met the family of my friend Parim; we witnessed the amazing Dr. Beat Richner and his Cello. He is the funder of the 3 Kantha Bopha Children Hospitals, which are in Siem Riep and PP and the excellent treatment of all children is for free. Beat Richner runs 5 hospitals in Phnom Penh and Siem Riep with 1600 beds. Over 2000 Cambodians work for him. In the past 17 years, he has treated 9.5 million children for free. Every day, 1600 healthy children are vaccinated and 3.000 sick children come to the hospitals. Most can be helped in out-patients but 10% are admitted. On average for 5.5 days, which costs about 2500 Swiss francs in all. Each year, 14.000 children are born in the maternity wards. 100.000 pregnant women have been tested there for HIV since 2001, 500 babies have thereby been saved from Aids. More info about how to make a donation you can get from me. Instead of money, you can also always help by making a blood donation.
Everyone should go to his concert, where he updates regarding activities in the hospitals and plays works for Cello by J.S. Bach along with songs by Beatocello. It is every Saturday and for free.
We’ve also been karaokeing and clubbing of course. The only shame was that I had to cure my hangover on the bus back to Stung Treng
Stung Treng eving light
written by  katja-horsch on March 3, 2010 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: what happend in Jan & Feb 2010

unbelievable but true, Dave made it to Cambodia!
Dave was supposed to arrive in the evening of the 18th of September. Due to some confusion he missed his connecting flight from Bangkok and had to spend the night at the airport. Fortunately he got another flight so that I could pick up stinky Dave at Phnom Penh airport the next day. It was so lovely to see him! This blog is very long with lots of pictures. Dave brought a camera which he left for me, which is very generous. It then became his new toy to capture all the nice moments.We had such a great and happy time!
The first 2 nights we stayed in the Pavillion in Phnom Penh.
Breakfast at the Pavillion
Infront of the Pav
We explored the city and each time I have visitors from far away, I see Cambodia again with fresh eyes. Each time I kind of do the same things, but it's also always different again.
Phnom Penh City
Khmer dessert or pa-eim as we say
view into a small street in Phnom Penh were they watch boxing
Khmer street food
We've seen Wat Phnom with lots of monkeys jumping around and of course the old elephant, you can ride on. We didn't do that at the end because it was $20 per person!
a cheeky monkey at Wat Phnom
good old elephant finishing todays work at Wat Phnom
Then it was time for a happy hour coctail.
Singapore Sling is a must!
I'm having a femme fatale, Jacky Kennedy drank already there a few years ago...
at the Elephant bar in Raffles, enjoying a happy hour coctail
After that we had a good view from the FCC overlooking the riverside.
View from the FCC onto the Mekong in Phnom Penh
What on earth is this?
This is a banana-flower with young bananas on it!
The next day we went to see the stunning Royal palace in the morning.
I love this spot at the Royal palace!
you look so innocent!
lovely!
a green elephant!
view over the Royal palace
our reflection in the glass
In the afternoon we visited Toul Sleng (Genocide museum).
this is from an exhibition about shadow puppetry
the Independence monument in Phnom Penh at night
cup of tea in our garden bungalow
the central market in Phnom Penh
we are exhausted but happy..
so tired from exhausing travels up and down the country
The next day we travelled by bus to Stung Treng. That takes a long time and if you are together, you try to think of entertainment...
there are many ways on how to use your travel pillow...
Saleiver-catcher
the Irokese way
the cock-head way
the cyper-space way
the head-phone way
the half-neck way
the chin-supporter way
eating lunch at my "favourite place": in Skoun
In Phnom Penh I bought a guitar to refine my guitar skills during those long lonely evenings in Stung Treng. Dave stayed with Carol as my current place is not really suitable for visitors.
me, Dave, Linda, Carol and Anthony
In Stung Treng, Dave came with us to the RTC and did some computer fixing and helped me with some equipment from our donor.
eating Ban Sum for breakfast at the market
He also witnessed a mass swine-flu vaccination, when I showed him around Stung Treng Referral Hospital.
We ate at my house together with my family. They liked my big brother very much.
Rek-smey with her mum
me and Vandy
Dave with Touch and Rek-smey
the flower lady at Stung Treng market
In the evenings we met up with the other volunteers and Dave was a big hit with the ladies...
On the last day in Stung Treng, Dave also visited Mekong Blue, the Silk farm.
The next day we did the mammuth journey from the North-East to the North-West of the country.
We travelled over 12 hours to get to Siem Riep, where we met Oli.
After a long night of Karaoke, we headed to see Angkor Wat the next day.
this was my 4th time then that I have seen Angkor Wat...
We've seen Bantey Srey,
Tha Prom,
then we needed food and drink and a snooze...
Angkor Thom,
me and my darlings
the day was truly exhausting and hot...
and finally Angkor Wat,
where Davy lost his money belt with purse and passport inside. Fortunatley the tourist police was kind enough to hand it over after paying a nice bribe.
In Siem Riep, Davy discovered how much he liked the massages by the blind so that he had one each day until he went back to the UK.
Dave also discovered the foot skin eating fish and we enjoyed the traditional Apsara dancing.
We also had the previlege to swim in a very posh pool...
Finally, I made Dave donate Blood in the Angkor Hospital for Children. Thank you Dave, you might have saved someones life already! He found out about his bloodgroup for the first time and was very brave...Well done!
Dave with my friend and Student nurse Sareth
After a few days in Siem Riep, we travelled even further north west to the wild wild west Thmar Pouk where Oli lives.
Now, it is not that easy to get there. First of all we had to go by bus to Sissophon
the opera house
Oli got a picture promised by this artist for his new children ward in Thmar Pouk
and then we waited for more than 2 hours for a taxi to fill up to bring us up to Oli-village.
So we waited and waited...and took a lot of pictures...
Dave was also keen to get a flavour of the real rural Cambodia and so we combined fun with work.
Oli had a health promotion day at his hospital, done by other VSO volunteers and Dave was asked to support one event by playing the guitar with a guy called: Vomit, to play the "Toilet song".
We've seen the new Children Hospital
which needs decoration now.
and this photo was taken only a year before...
The next day, we said goodbye to the others and we travelled on from Thmar Pouk to Battambong by taxi and bus.
There we stayed over night in the Royal Hotel which was cheap and cheerful.
Very early the next day, we took the boat back to Siem Riep. That journey took about 6 hours and we travelled on the Mekong across the Tonle Sap.
that's how a toilet on a boat looks like
in the snake cave
the national art gallery
a painting hanging in the art gallery
Eventually we arrived back in Siem Riep.
We stayed there for one night and then made our journey back to Phnom Penh, by bus.
Back in Phnom Penh we went to the National (Natural) museum and also saw a film in Metahouse as well as an art exhibition.
We met Oli again
David, a future VSO volunteer?
At our last night we went clubbing until Dave almost missed his flight back...
welcome on board!
My director Mr. Tek Leng Sou gives me my leaving present
written by  katja-horsch on October 14, 2010 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: Unbelievable but true, Dave made it to Cambodia!

North-Vietnam
Hanoi, Vietnam
Hanoi, the capital of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam, is an elegant city located on the banks of the Red River with tranquil Hoan Kiem Lake at its heart. North of the lake are the bustling streets of the Old Quarter (where we stayed), each street named after the trade that used to take place there.
Oli and I flew over for a weeks holiday at the beginning of October.
Phnom Penh- Vietienne-Hanoi
Much of the city was transformed by the French when it became a French protectorate in the 1880s and there are wide boulevards and large colonial buildings which are now home to government departments and foreign embassies.
Following years of rampant inflation, poverty and repression, the government introduced economic reform or doi moi in 1986, allowing people to own their own businesses. Now Hanoi has been totally transformed and visitors are entranced by the city and its residents. Recent years have seen an enormous increase in visitors and at peak times every hotel room in Hanoi is booked up, so prices have risen accordingly.
Teeming with culture, history, great restaurants and nightlife, Hanoi offers a fantastic introduction to Vietnam. And that's what we wanted and got.
We arrived late in the dark at our Hotel and were only able to have a little stroll along the busy streets and have some first impressions. Everything was decorated with beautiful fairy lights to start the big celebration of 1000 years Hanoi! The next day, we started exploring. First of all we went to the lake.
The lake is one of the major scenic spots in the city and serves as a focal point for its public life.
this girl came to Oli and wanted a picture with him
I also wanted to be in the picture!
to celebrate in style, we got some banners and stickers
Have you ever had "Wiesel-Coffe"?
According to legend, the Emperor Le Loi presented a magic sword, he had used in victorious revolt against the Chinese, to the Golden Turtle God (Kim Qui) of the lake - hence it's name.
The Tortoise Tower (Thap Rua) standing on a small island near the center of lake is linked to the legend.
the giant magic turtle
Since then, the lake previously called Ho Luc Thuy or Green Water Lake, became known as Ho Hoan Kiem, or The Lake of the Returned Sword.
Seven years ago, Duc named the reptile, estimated to weigh about 200 kg (440 lb), Rafetus Leloi in honor of the emperor.
So far this year, the turtle has appeared 78 times compared with 58 times for all of last year, the professor said. It emerges more frequently between October and March.
Near the northern shore of the lake lies Jade Island on which the Ngoc Son Temple (Jade Mountain Temple) stands. The temple was erected in the 18th century. It honors the 13-century military leader Tran Hung Dao who distinguished himself in the fight against the Yuan Dynasty, Jade Island is connected to the shore by the wooden red-painted Huc Bridge (Morning Sunlight Bridge).
lucky games around the lake
this woman got styled probably for a photo shoot
Oli infront of thousends of plastic flowers, looks good though
along the lake
our lunch, typical vietnamese PHO noodles
and for desert a luxurieous yogourth ice cream
giant film screens everywhere
Oly on stage singing his favourite song: Should old aquaintance be forgot...
In the afternoon, we visited the Water puppet theatre.
Mua Roi Nuoc or Water Puppet is a unique art which has it origin in the delta of the Red river in the tenth century. The farmers in this region devised a form of entertainment using what natural medium they can find in their environment. In ancient times, the ponds and the rice paddies after harvest were the stage for these impromptu shows. This art form is unique to North Vietnam and only finds its way to the world stage in recent years as a result of the normalized relation with the West. Today the Thang Long puppet troupe is the most well known in Ha Noi.
Modern, water puppetry is performed in a pool of water with the water surface being the stage. The puppeteers stand behind a screen and control the puppets using long bamboo rods and string mechanism hidden beneath the water surface. The puppets are carved out of wood and often weigh up to 15 kg. A traditional Vietnamese orchestra provides background music accompaniment. Singers of Cheo (a form of opera) with origin in north Vietnam sing songs which tell the story being acted out by the puppets.
The theme of the skits is rural and has a strong reference to Vietnamese folklore. It tells of day-to-day living in rural Vietnam and Vietnamese folk tales that are told by grandparents to their grandchildren. Stories of the harvest, of fishing and of festivals are highlighted. Legends and national history are also told through short skits. Many of the skits, especially those involving the tales of day-to-day living, often have a humorous twist.
lovely to go shopping in hanoi!
Traffic in Hanoi is very chaotic, even more then in Cambodia I had the feeling. Crossing a street is an experience in its own. There is a basic rule to cross a street you always have to follow: do not hesitate.
Do not wait for the traffic to stop, it never does. You have to start walking and continue on a steady pace. Motorbikes will avoid you. It takes some practice, but at the end of your stay you will be able to cross the streets without problems. You do have to be careful, because accidents do happen and the motorbikes are very fast...
busy streets
in the streets of Hanoi
cutting spring onions
wall grafitti
yes we had a lovely day!
Another good thing about Hanoi is, that is has nice beer.
Beer Hoi, fresh beer - delicious and cheep
Jo! means Cheers in Vietnamese.
unfortunately we had a lot of rain
on the way to Uncle Ho
The Ho Chi Minh Museum in Hanoi is a dedicated museum. It was built in memory of a great man whose name is written in golden alphabets in the history of Vietnam. The special person was a great revolutionary and statesman and went on to become first the Prime Minister and then the President of North Vietnam. The great man was none other than Ho Chi Minh. The common people of Vietnam are indebted to him for what he has done for his country and as a mark of their gratitude the museum was dedicated to him apart from a city and a mausoleum which also shares his name.
The Ho Chi Minh Museum in Hanoi is the preserver of everything memorable related to the great revolutionist, Ho Chi Minh. The Museum consists of five extensive floors and was inaugurated on 2nd September, 1990, celebrating the 100th birthday occasion of the beloved President. (This is what you get when you google Ho-Chi-Minh-Museum!)
everybody wants to see Uncle Ho
usually he's in there (the mausoleum), but was then travelling to Russia for repair work
Uncle Ho postcard
the entrance of the Ho-Chi-minh museum
pulling the beard?
Please read carefully...
a rather interesting exhibition about what happend in the time of Ho Chi Minh
at the temple on one stilt
Xian-Chau (means "hello"in Vietnamese)
a vietnamese family on holiday wanted to take a picture with us, why not?
everywhere was decorated in order to celebrate 1000 years hanoi
we found a tofu lady and had lunch on the street
Although communism is long gone, and the spirits of free enterprise flood the streets of Vietnam, there are still some symbols of the old regime. One of them is this statue of Lenin.
Goodbye Lenin!
the vietnamese girls really liked Oli, no surprise there...
Yo Lenin, Yo!
Nowadays Vietnam is one of the most corrupted countries in the world. There seems to be no limit to what money can buy here. Students have to pay if they want a good post. Even policemen have to pay in order to have a good destination. Democracy is still a forbidden word.
so that's where the V-sighn comes from...
Seen everywhere in Hanoi, Tube- Houses
The Temple of Literature (or Van Mieu) is one of Hanoi's highlights. The temple, an example of ancient Vietnamese architecture, was originally built in 1070 to honor scholars and literacy men. Soon after it became the country's first University. The names of its graduates were engraved on stone steles. Some of the tablets were lost. Those remaining are mounted on the back of stone turtles and enclosed on one side of the complex.
We were very lucky to find a photo-exhibiton there which was absolutely amazing.
at the temple of literature
Here are some of my favourite shots:
The next day we checked out of our nice hotel to get onto the bus to drive for 4 hours towards the North-West to get to the coast line of Ha Long Bay.
"Ha Long" is literally translated as "Bay of Descending Dragons." Ha Long Bay is a beautiful area with 1969 limestone islands jutting imposingly upon the skyline. Unfortunately the place is a tourist trap and the unique panorama is spoilt by a tremendous amount of "junks" which are in fact slimly disguised tourist boats that bear no resemblance to the authentic Chinese sailing vessels of the same name. These diesel-powered floating money-makers careen about the bay with casual indifference to safety as they bump and crunch against each other in a frenzy to drop their fares onto the obligatory island or floating shop before depositing the harried passengers back at Halong Bay dock feeling like they've been cheated out of their Dong, even if that isn't particularly true. The romantic setting is forever spoilt by the cattle-market mentality. Still... nice scenery.
And it was! For me it was an amazing trip because I've never experienced anything like it, I've never stayed over night on a boat before!
there she comes, our beauty
'Halongwonder"
our lunch on board
Then we visited Thien Cung Grotto and Dau Go Cave.
at the giant grotto
inside the grotto
the scenery was stunning...
fruit sellers at Halong Bay
Pineapple?
we are on a boat and in love...
could there be anything better?
kayaking at Halong Bay
it was raining, it was cold but it was great fun!
in the evening we sang karaoke before we went to sleep in our own cabin
Our sleep on board was actually interrupted by lots of rat action and noise. Apparently that is a good sighn the captain said the next morning. It means, that the boat is floating. Ah ja.
Our 2 day trip along Ha Long Bay ended by climbing up a rock and having a swim. It was absolutely amazing...
made it!
we had a great view from one of the tops of the rocks
after that climb, we need a swim!
our slightly crazy travel companions
From Ha Long Bay, we got back to Hanoi and got the Night-train to the very North of Vietnam, destination: Sapa.
the official Sapa-picture!
Located in Vietnam's remote northwest mountains, Sapa is famous for both its fine, rugged scenery and also its rich cultural diversity. Sapa is an incredibly picturesque village that lies in the Hoang Lien Son mountain range near the Chinese border in northwestern Vietnam, known as "the Tonkinese Alps". Sapa and its surrounding region is host to many hill tribes, as well as rice terraces, lush vegetation, and Fansipan, the highest peak in Vietnam.
big pigs!
somehow the rice plants looked bigger there then in Cambodia
Many ethnic minorities, such as the Hmong and the Dao, live in and around Sapa. Many older women in particular make items such as beautiful ethnic-style clothes and blankets, to sell to tourists.
curious locals
more curious locals
After visiting Vietnam, I am sure I am a giant.
general condition good, only one tooth is missing...
This elderly lady sold me this beautiful skirt.
very persistent though...
traditional clothes from Sapa and the different Ethnic groups
Children from these ethnic minorities begin to earn a living as soon as they are five years old. They often peddle small metal or silver trinkets, embroidered pillow cases and friendship bands in the main town, and they walk for about 3 hours from their villages to reach. Some of the "richer" ethnic women sometimes take a one-hour motorbike ride back to their villages at the end of the day.
so many nice things to buy...
but fortunately there is christmas soon, a good reason to buy...
and some earrings for me...
just need a little adjustment...
my top model!
don't worry, nobody will get this hat as a present.
What shall I buy I haven't got yet?
The thing we were warned about but of course not really taken into account was the weather issue. At this time of the year it is cold there. We have rolled into town on a glorious clear day but as soon as we drove higher up the mountains into Sapa town, we were nearly both days trapped in impenetrable fog. We didn't bring along warm clothes of course and fortunately the first day we had nice weather, but the second day for the main hike it was really cold and miserable. Our hotel didn't have efficient heating so I was really greatful to have a warm duvet and a hot shower, because I was nearly freezing to death at that point.
the next day it was very cold, misty and wet...
typical indigo coloured material hangs out to dry
Oli needed his chocolate fix...
the local hospital, looked closed and scary
ah a spider!
in one of the villages we passed on our hiking trip
the locals waiting to do more buisness with the tourists
this little one sells bracelts and walking sticks made of bamboo
we had a beautiful hiking trip through the mountains of Sapa
After we returned back to Hanoi again by night-train, we flew in the early morning hours back home. To Cambodia. When we arrived, it was lovely and warm. I could communicate again and everything felt familiar and good. I was glad to back. It was an amazing time in Vietnam and it was really exiting to discover a new country, but I must say, that nothing can beat my beloved Cambodia.
written by  katja-horsch on November 4, 2010 from Hanoi, Vietnam
from the travel blog: North-Vietnam

a new year
me and a boy, who was collecting all the empty beer cans from under the table
It feels a long time now, beeing here in Cambodia. Not that I don't like it anymore, but I must admit, I feel ready for new adventures. And this year will be the year of big decisions and unpatiently as I am, I want everything to happen immediately!
My midwifery applications have been sent and now it is up to crossing fingers and hoping, that I will get a place.
I also completed my IELTS (international english language testing system) in Phnom Penh and got a 7.5, which is more then I ever dreamed of!
Now I enjoy the beauty of this country and try to finish my VSO placement successfully. I still have a few months to go though, until July.
The Wedding season is still in full blast and the other day, Linda, Carol, Rachel and myself gave everything and went especially to a beauty salon here in Stung Treng to get the full make up and hair do. I also wore my new dress which I bought the material for at the market. The tailor did a wonderful job for only 50.000 Riel!
Yes, we are ready for a wedding!
So we were invited to go to Lindas Translators Brothers Wedding. And Oli came also as we had to celebrate our 1-year-together.
the lovely boys
the bride
Ingran the paediatrician and Jan
Dani and Rachel
smile and say: cheer - moi!
the new stung trengers Thea and Jan from the Netherlands
Linda and Carol
at khmer weddings, the main drink is beer
fortunately we ate beforehand!
The VSO delegation from Stung Treng (some)
Also Touch, one of my "sisters", went to a wedding in typical ott khmei style.
next year it will be her own.
Touch on her way to a wedding.
My little Hugsy is getting bigger now and fortunately, after her cat mother abondened her, she found her new best friend in Rambo, who plays gently with her. Rambo and Tilda are big strong boys now who love to run around but also they like the company of humans.
My big boys
Tilda and Rambo
she's so cute!
Hugsy had for a long time a cold
Hugsy likes the sun, like me
I love them to bits, although I am trying to give them to other volunteers. But to my surprise, no one would like to look after a cat. Nearly all of them live in big houses all on their own but don't want a little animal they could have fun with.
When Oli was here, we spend a few days along the river near the Laos border at a place called: Bird sanctuary. We were at my home too, but given the circumstances that we are never really alone there, it was a nice change, having a bungalow to ourselves.
Happy paddling!
the sandy beaches along the Mekong...
and I say, pink is your colour!
from our balcony
This month is also full of other celebrations, for example on the 7th of January we celebrated the Victory over the Genocide regime. In my local pagoda (Wat Luer) was disco and on our way from town, Oli and I got sucked in into a binge drinking party at this pagoda, with my "sisters" and friends from the restaurant where I live. We didn't want to be the fun-break, so we drank a little with them and I even danced for the first time in the crowd of mainly children infront of the big blasting speakers.
this was around 10pm, for Stung Treng really late already
Rek-smey and a 'friend'
Touch and her fiancee, wedding next year!
a cook from the restaurant
ok, we might have some beers as well then...
Peach and a 'friend'
The next day, we had Ban Sum at the market for breakfast and then Oli had to leave again for the North- West.
eating my favourite breakfast, which I could eat every day...
Oli doesn't like Jackfruits, guss why!
and unfortunately the meat stands too...
fresh tofu every day we have!
fresh vegetables, mmhhh
a khmei advert for cigaretts
our Tofu lady in Stung Treng market
Dani, Lindas Translator, got a scholarship to go to Korea. This is a fantastic achievement and most Khmer people only dream of this opportunity. But she made it. So we had a little goodbye party for her.
good luck Dani!
me, Thea, Ingran, Luisa, Ferdi, Linda, Jan, Maria, Dani and Carol
Soon Chinese New Year, Buddhas Birthday and Khmei New Year are coming up. More to celebrate and be happy. Most important, the meeting of the parents and the visit from Doerti and Ines in February. And my 30th in March! It is all very exiting.
I hope that all my friends at home are well. Take good care until I see you next at some point this year!!! x k
written by  katja-horsch on January 25, 2011 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: a new year, a new

Ratana kiri and Kampong Thom
My visit to Ratana kiri and Kampong Thom 15. -21.06.2009
After I arrived in ST from PP on Sunday, my landlady came and brought me lunch. Khmei food. That made me really happy. Although we can’t understand each other, she makes me feel welcome.
In the evening, we were saying farewell to Joelle in her house in ST. It was a great party with lots of lively Khmei people there. We even tried to dance like them, until the power was cut off and we had to light candles to carry on partying without music.
Even my little Channa was tipsy, because he brought Rice wine from Laos and I forced him to drink it with me. Then a thunderstorm came and we went home. Wet.
On Monday morning, I started packing and went again to the RTC to get some documents about previous preceptor supervision in Rat. After that I decided, to carry on and cycle to the “Mekong blue”, one kilometre away from the RTC, were they grow the precious silk from silkworms.
There I met a guy named Makara, and he gave me the full tour.
It’s a really big complex, and they have everything you need to produce breathtaking silk material. When I saw the silkworms, I had to think of my sweet niece Tilda, who got silkworms from her father ones and she always wanted to give them more then four leaves per day. Wonder what happened to them, can you tell me John?
I’ll definitely be back there. They even have a kindergarten for the children of the women who work there. It is a lovely place. At the end I bought a little purse made of silk.
Then I waited for the car, Hor told me that we’ll travel with Sytills car. He is the regional chief nurse (RCN), the one were my sunglasses got stolen from his desk.
When they arrived at 2:30, there was also Tiri in the car, Hor’s wife. I was really happy. She is so lovely. I was starting to joke that in England they recommended to take a sports bra to Cambodia because of bumpy roads. At the beginning it was ok, although only sand road. But then, it just got worse and worse. We probably drove 20 km/h ( our neighbours in England would say 20 is plenty) for an hour or so and then the rain started and we slowed down even more. But finally we arrived in Ratanakiri and were looking for a place to stay. VSO pays $6 per night, so Sytill and me were staying in a guesthouse and Hor and Tiri stayed at Hor’s brother, who lives here with his family.
In the evening, we were invited to his brother’s house and had traditional Khmei dinner together. It was great. Everybody sits on the floor and we had like a hot stove. So on there we put vegetable and beef meat. With it chicken soup and rice. Really delicious. And the relatives were so friendly.
The next day, Sytill and me met downstairs and then we drove to a restaurant to have breakfast with Hor and Narem, who is a clinical Instructor from ST RTC and also part of the preceptor supervision visit in the Referral hospital. I had baguette and eggs. Was really good and a change to the usual breakfast noodle soup. Then we headed to the hospital. There, we first met the director and exchanged polite words.
Then we met the first preceptor, based on a paediatric ward. The task was to facilitate a certain skill, she choose measuring temperature, based on the nursing curriculum.
And that the student learns from it of course.
So we observed and then gave constructive feedback afterwards. Altogether we saw 2 preceptors that morning and it was fun.
The patients on the other hand really poorly. Also the whole hospital setting and surroundings are so middle aged.
I had the whole time a big blob in my throat when patients and relatives looked at me with sad eyes, like they were saying: please help! Fortunately I have the feeling that if I tried to engage with them and gave them a smile, they smiled back and it felt slightly better.
When Sytill and me went back for lunch, to the same restaurant we had breakfast, I seriously said to him that I want to work one day at the weekend in the hospital in ST, just to be there for patients who have nobody for example who comes and visits them.
I don’t know why he doesn’t like the idea. It’s like talking against something when I start it. Like he doesn’t want to hear it.
We had fish and chicken soup and then I had a sleep for one hour. Afterwards I felt really refreshed and ready for more action. So we went back into the hospital and saw 2 more preceptors.
Afterwards, Sytill said that they did generally better then he thought they were doing. That surprised me. I thought it was the other way around. Well, I thought I’ll give each of them individual points they can work on in future.
I was telling Hor and Sytill about the lake and that I really wanted to go swimming there. So in the afternoon, we decided to do so and we headed back to the hotel, got the swim costumes, towels and some drinks and went to the lake.
It was really beautiful. Because it was a cold and cloudy day, the water colour wasn’t nice. Apparently it is crystal blue usually, but never mind. The water was lush.
Sytill was asking if I wanted to go over there to change dresses, and I didn’t quite understand what he meant, so I said yes, because I thought he meant something like a place to change into your swim suit. When we arrived, there was a house and Hor was talking something about “looking like the Ethnics”. We went into that house and Tiri started to undress. I thought I can change now, but then a woman appeared and wrapped a coloured piece of cloth around me and then I started to understand.
It was so much fun. You can see it at those silly pictures.
Tiri and me, the ethnic girls
And then finally we went swimming in the beautiful scenery of the volcanic lake.
The rain started ever so slightly to drizzle and Hor and me did those games, who can hold the breath under water longest
I could hold my breath longer then Hor, we had to laugh a lot though
and diving farest and so on. With Sytill I jumped into the water, one after the other, and then we drank Angor beer with straws.
mmhh, beer with straw
It was an unforgettable moment and how I wished, that you could have been there as well.
no crocodiles, I checked beforehand
When the rain became stronger and a thunderstorm was about to arrive, we went home to have dinner and guess where, the restaurant, where I had also breakfast and lunch. Hor told me that Sytill always goes there when he is in Rat., because he thinks, food there is the best. And I don’t disagree.
Sytill ordered even wine. He is a dodgy man, somehow very difficult to read. I still don’t feel that the ice between us has broken, although we did all those childish things today. Funny p.
We actually wanted to top the evening by going to a karaoke bar, but Tiri had a bad headache so we went back to the hotel. Hope she’ll feel better tomorrow.
On Wednesday, we had breakfast, then 2 more supervisions in the hospital. The plan was, that the others wanted to go home in the afternoon and I wanted to stay until Sunday.
But because it was raining more or less all the time and I did the lake and also the other volunteer from Rat. didn’t have time to see me, I decided to go back home with them. I would have felt left alone, because I had so much fun with Hor and Tiri and Sytill.
On the way back in the afternoon, we visited a waterfall. We passed a bamboo-clad valley and went then to the Ka Chhang falls, just 10m high,
with a pool for taking a dip.
We didn’t have much time and the water looked very brown,
at the waterfalls
so that was fine with me. Then we sledded back to Stung Treng, because it was raining and the roads made of red sand.
Setyll, Hor, Narem and Tiri
Then I decided to go and see my friend Eric, who likes to be called by his african name: Otieno, in Kampong Thom whom I met first when I arrived in PP. KT used to be known as “place of the big snake”, apparently because the locals used to take offerings to a large snake which lived in a cave on the river, though this may be yet another Cambodian myth as no one now has a clue where the cave is. That’s what my book says.
So I had a few days to see another province. It lies in the heart of Cambodia actually.
The bus ride took around 8 hours and when I arrived on Thursday afternoon, we had some of the famous Stung Treng Coffee ( it tastes a little bit of chocolate and every volunteer in ST is crazy about it) and cake, together with his elderly landlady, he lives with. Oti also has a big house like me, with guestroom and veranda. But he hasn’t got the view onto the river.
He works for VSO but with another NGO called ‘Mlup Baitong’. He works in Livelihood sector, has to do with foresting and farming. I admire his braveness to be black and so confident. Because also for Cambodians it is strange to see somebody so black. And also to see somebody so white. And when we walked together, they were staring and laughing at us.
Otieno is lovely. Although he has three sons already at home he kind of adopted a Cambodian girl and supports her when he can. He also gives a contribution to a very poor family near to his house. And he is still able to save up some money each month to support his family at home. He has a very big heart.
On Friday, we went to see “Sambor Prei Kuk” one of the major temple sites. It is the site of a Chenla-era capital that once boasted hundreds of temples, although many to them have now been lost, perhaps smothered by the encroaching forest. Several temple groups have been cleared, and particularly fine brick carvings and decorated sandstone lintels and columns can be seen.
The history of those temples goes back to the late sixth century,
when Cambodia consisted of numerous small states.
The temple divides into three main sections and we got lost in that big area.
It was so hot that I got really bad sunburns on my knees from the ride and on my neck. Of course I forgot my sun cream.
In the evening, I received my first motorbike lessons. It was great. Never did it before, so after he explained everything to me, I could imagine what to do and with his instructions, I suddenly rode the bike. It was a great feeling, until it started to rain and I slipped on something on the road while taking the corner and we fell over into the dirt. Really embarrassing it was, because it happened on a little market place. I only got a few scratches and blue stains, Oti was fine fortunately, and the bike too. Then I was scared to do it again, but I was animated to carry on. When I tried the next day, it felt much better already, more confident.
On Saturday we went swimming in a little pool nearby his house which I enjoyed very much. Then we visited another pagoda
and had dinner together. I went early to bed in preparation of the long early journey back to Stung Treng the next day.
So I had to take the taxi first to Kampong Cham. In the Taxi we were 7 people. Me and three others in the back, one of the women was very pregnant and 3 in the front. That means 2 on the passenger’s seat, squeezed together for 2 and a half hours. I missed the first bus going to Stung Treng so I had to wait for another 2 hours in KC.
The bus was really full and the aircon didn’t work, so it felt like being in a sauna. Each time the driver used the brakes I could smell burned rubber. Next to me was a woman who started talking to me. Usually Cambodians are very shy but also very curious. So she asked my name. Then my age and then if I was married yet. When I denied she couldn’t understand it and repeated that she wished for me to get married as soon as possible. Then she tried to recommend her brother to me and her friend. Well, what could I say. I tried to be very polite and declined. Then she took my hand and asked me if it was my real skin colour. I said yes and she was surprised, because she thought I would use whitening cream like all Cambodian women use to look more beautiful. It was really funny.
The bus broke down of course and I thought from hearing the crackling engine, that was it. The engine is stuck and we can’t carry on. But the amazing thing is that the bus driver again was able to fix it. No idea how. So after 30 minutes, everybody could come in again and off we went.
It was starting to get dark when I arrived and a thunderstorm was coming up. I tried to find a moto driver to bring me home because the rain started already.
But no one was in sight. Suddenly a moto stopped next to me and a girl asked me if she could give me a lift. That was so sweet. She knows me from the RTC, she is a student there. So she brought me home before the thunderstorm got worse. And that is what I really appreciate and makes me be comfortable and feeling home.
Also when I arrived I had a good feeling of being back in my house. It feels familiar and save. And after a quick catch up with Delia and Helen on the phone, I realized that I’m having a great time here so far and that I’m really lucky to have had my placement offer in Cambodia.
It is a great start for volunteering and living and working in a developing country.
Now, I just want to ask or remember, that if you want to do something good, you could do some fundraising anytime. For example at work, if you ask colleagues to donate even only £ 1 or Euro 1 each and collect it and send it to me, it will make a difference. Please consider it. When I come next year for a visit, I’ll bother you with that. In the JR, girls, maybe you want to put your mark onto the RTC by donating for some water filters for example or maybe even we could improve poorly conditions of student nurses by buying a toilet for them or materials/ equipment for teaching. If you have some money, maybe even some watches for nurses would be a great help. Some students are so poor, they can’t even afford to buy a watch.
I am here, so it won’t get lost. Please contact me for your positive answer.
written by  katja-horsch on June 22, 2009 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: Ratana kiri and Kampong Thom

ST at the end of June
Wednesday
My week started by going straight back into another Hospital to do supervision of preceptors. This time in my home hospital in Stung Treng together with Channa, his first time we were officially doing something outside the RTC.
It felt ok, due to my previous experience in Ratanakiri. Together with also a new clinical instructor Mr. Vann, we struggled through two and a half days of observation and talking.
observing preceptor with student
Struggled because, the preceptors here were far less prepared and motivated to give a good performance.
checking Respiration rate
I think I nagged them a bit and wanted to repeat their performance when it was really bad. So I talked a lot to them, repeated myself constantly and I hope it was helpful.
tald to preceptor afterwards with Mr. Vann and Channa
Otherwise it was great to be so close to the other volunteers like Delia and Helen who work opposite the hospital in the PHD (provincial health department) and to be at the other side of town where more things are going on, eg. there is the market and shops and so on.
Delia and Sambath at work with a patient
Today I was even a vet, giving “Stinki” , Kathy’s cat who is now at Delia’s, an i.m.- injection for not getting pregnant. She was a very brave cat and I love her already.
Otherwise not much is going on, housework, reports to write, catching mice…
great light
Thursday
Actually it hasn’t rained for the last three days. Everybody is longing for it. It is very hot and sticky at the moment. I am sure then when it comes, then properly.
This morning I had breakfast with Helen and Delia and Queeni, who visits Delia from Kratie and is also a nutrition advisor. We met at the Vietnamese noodle place and it was as always very tasty.
Then Delia and me went to the hospital again. She wanted me to check a Blood sugar measurement machine. It didn’t work. Needs replacement unfortunately. There are two of those machines, both broken. The whole hospital is now without. It is unbelievable. Patients need to have a proper blood test now to know how their blood sugar is. It’s pretty bad. When I compare to the UK how many Blood sugars we take and so easily without thinking about where to get supply from and who repairs the machine. There are lots of hidden diabetes patients here. Even I can see that.
And we actually don’t know who will pay for replacement…
Then I went to the RTC and unfortunately Hor didn’t feel well and went home. He felt very sleepy and had a headache. I hope he hasn’t got Dengue fever…
In my lunch break I got a little surprise, because in my bathroom sink was a Scorpio sitting. I panicked a bit and then called Delia. She calmed me down and we were thinking how we could kill it. I was nearly going to crush it with the other end of my floor brush, but I just couldn’t do it. So she asked if my landlady wasn’t around. I went out to see and there she was. I must have looked a bit out of order, because she came running. When she saw it she laughed at me, got a piece of wood from outside and killed it for me. Then she took it with her. I was relieved.
nasty little thing
When I arrived at the RTC a bit earlier then usual, some students were there, talking to me. Because of the English classes they know me now and also from the visits at their accommodation. Two in particular are very interested in me and always talk to me. One is a very shy boy, I should know his name by now but am to embarrassed to ask again. The girl, her name is Sareth, always smiles at me and is very curious about me. Last night, when I had just my washing finished and also cooking, I was quit sweaty and was just about to throw my vegetable waste over the riverbank. Everybody does that, the cows will have it later when they stroll along. So I looked a bit not so good. And then those student nurses where on their bicycles, standing there on the road waiting for somebody. It was coincidence that it was her as well and she started of course a chat.
So today she asked me if she could come and visit me in my house. I thought that was a lovely idea. So on Saturday at 12.00 and they would like to eat English food. What shall I cook? Maybe spaghetti, maybe beans on toast? Got a holy tin from PP for special moments. Or maybe potatoes and veg and meat? Well, I decide later.
So after Sareth asked me for my contact details, everybody else wanted them. I only gave it to 4 other girls and the boy. They said they all want to come and visit me. So I better be prepared for that. I thought I’ll make a party one day and invite them all.
In the afternoon I was fairly proud of myself because I found out how to do a slide show with window power point. All by myself I prepared a presentation via slide show. I think would have never found out like that, but here is enough time.
And Mr. Vann told me that I am bossy. We laughed it off.
Did I tell you already about the fire? There was a fire in town near the market today. At least 5 houses burned down. I went to see it after work and it was shocking.
Those families lost everything, and insurance or something equal doesn’t exist. The gossip is that in the restaurant at lunchtime was only one pregnant woman cooking and in the pan was too much oil and it caught somehow fire. Because she was the only one, she couldn’t get help soon enough and the fire spread very quickly. Next to it was a private clinic of the hospital director, burned also down and some shops. Terrible.
5 houses missing after the fire
In the evening I enjoyed brown rice, which I brought from PP with mixed veg and sauce. I watched a DVD – Charles Wilson’s war- which I somehow liked because of the actors ( Tom Hanks and Julia Roberts) and then I got a long SMS from Sareth. Which sounded like this: hi what are you doing? Are you going to have holiday this year? Are you doing anything this weekend? Tomorrow you go to a party. Do you like Khmer music? Do you like Khmer food? When do you get up? Where do you normally go for holiday? What do you eat tonight? When do you go to bed, I hope you sleep very well. From me sareth.
I just hope that all the others who have my number now will not bombard me in the same way. So I answered that I will try to answer all her questions on Saturday when she comes around.
Louisa’s b-dparty was great.
Queenie, Delia, Evic, Louisa, Helen and me
I had my first lessons in khmei dance and Louisa cooked very nice food.
lovely cake!
Also there was a Karaoke machine! And everybody who knows me knows also, that I Love Karaoke. I also brought some balloons and we did “balloon dance”
Helen and Chantra having balloon conversation
and now everybody down, down
yes, no touching allowed
and now clap your hand above your heads
and “statue dance”.
and freeze!
That means if the music
khmei dancing
stopps, everybody has to freeze.
sooo long.
And we had a real birthday-cake brought from Kratie by Queenni and yummy self made chocolate and coconut ice-cream, made by Helen. Hor and Tiri were there, Hor is better
freeze!
, Channa my VA
my sweet Channa
and Chantra, who lives downstairs with his mum. Also the VSO crew Louisa, Evic, Delia, Queeni and me.
Queenie and Evic
funny how I dance
Holly is in PP this weekend. We partied until midnight. It was great. Finally a real Paaaady.
"dancing queen..."
On Saturday morning, I met first Delia for breakfast at the market at 8 am. We had those tasty cold noodles with chilli. Then we went and had our toenails painted, as it is common here.
fancy turquise toe nails?
It was done by a Cambodian girl whose business it is and she just went to Vietnam to have eyebrows and lip liner tattooed.
At 9 I met with Tiri to get some smarter clothes for work. It was difficult to find something in my size, but then I found a blouse in size 42 which just about fitted. I also got a great view at the market and discovered the clothes section which I hadn’t before. Also I got a cool blue T-shirt which Tiri said, I could also wear atwork.
Then I went shopping in preparation for the student girls from the RTC, who wanted to be at my house by 12 noon. When I arrived at my house at 10:45, there they were sitting already! Sareth, Parim and Shry mom. So they came in and asked me, if they could help me with the cooking.
First we chatted a bit and I gave them some of the magazines, Carmen sent me. More and Closer. They really liked them and looked at everything very close and wanted explanation.
I decided on Spaghetti with Tomato sauce, so I explained first that it is an European dish, coming from Italy. They never heard of Italy.
Unfortunately I couldn’t get real spagetti, so I used some Khmei flat egg noodles.
For the sauce, I somehow had in my head to make the sauce smooth - I need to grate the tomatoes through a sieve. So I first boiled the tomatoes as seen at Sheila’s, then peeled them and rubbed them through a sieve into the wok. Together with onions and garlic, s&p, it simmered a bit and then we added fresh basil, which I love here.
We ate on the balcony and when I asked if they wanted some chilli sauce, they all put lots of it onto their portions. They found the dish delicious.
I didn’t know for how long they wanted to stay, but then they wanted to watch a DVD. I asked what kind of film they like, love storys or something like that? No, action films. I borrowed some DVD’s from Delia and had only “Get smart” and “Tropic Thunder”. So we watched first “Get smart” until it stopped working and then “Tropic Thunder”. Yeah, and then they disappeared after 4pm.
They were very nice and I hope we can come together another time. I really would like to teach them some more English or just I don’t know, be there for them.
In the evening I got an invitation from Delia to come along and have something to eat.
There were also Queenie, Louisa and Evic. We had Gin and Tonic! Wow, that was a great treat. The bottle came from Delias mum, when she visited her last year. It was a great chill out dinner and Delia and me had quit a good chat.
Today, Sunday
I really wanted to sleep long today. But at 5:30 the rooster woke me up, then some people started hacking some wood and then somebody else was making noise from the street. Because my bedroom has only a thin wooden wall I can hear literally everything. I stayed in bed and read until 9. Then I got up and I didn’t have any water from the taps nor from the shower or toilet. Great. My landlady wasn’t there but a bloke helped me to figure out the water pump at the house.
Then I made a lampshade for the kitchen from the cans we had last night.
lampshade extraordinare
I started doing little bowls and stuff with it, just cut them and staple together. The waste we make with those cans, I can’t stand.
I’ll make more lampshades next time.
Otherwise I’ll go to the hospital in the afternoon and hang around for a bit there I thought, that they get used to me. Maybe next time, they’ll ask me to do something with or for them…
And then Internet- café and blogging! Takes always quite a time until all pictures are uploaded and so on.
Tomorrow I try to finish my proposal for a French aid organisation who wants to support Cambodia with $ 40.000. Cross fingers that we get the money!
I really want to try to get a new building for student accommodation.
Nevertheless, I still count on your support and maybe that you consider some fund raising ?
Antji and John, got your parcel. The mosquito repellent is perfect! The chocolate was half eaten by mice and very melted…. Thank you so much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am still nameless, please give me a name!
from the travel blog: ST end of June

Hi guys! How are you?
I am in my second month far away from you and familiar environment.
So far I can say that it is great and I’m really enjoying myself.
The language is still a problem though, I need to crack on and find a teacher or learn myself. I can go to the market and understand numbers and am able to have a conversation with hand and feet, but it is still too little and some people who know me now a bit find it quit frustrating not to be able to communicate properly.
hello my handsome
This week not much happened so far. I applied for the money ( $ 40.000) from an organisation called ‘ Guernsey Overseas Aid Committee. I cross everything I have, to maybe get funding to build a new building for student accommodation.
Without your help David, the proposal wouldn’t have been so good and neat. So thank you for your help and commitment and I am sorry for a sleepless night. For my purpose you went to your workplace office because the internet didn’t work at home, just to e-mail me my draft back. And that was at 3 o’clock at night and you had to work the next day. I won’t forget that! You are a star star star!
Cambodian style bedshapes
Also I’m preparing myself for 2 supervision trips in the next two weeks. Next week we will go again with the Regional Chief Nurse to Kratie and the week afterwards to Chhlong for a couple of days each. After Chhlong I’m going straight to Siem Riep to attend to the Health Sector Workshop. So there are exiting weeks ahead.
And that means also planning.
Work goes slow this week. Although I should train the teachers, they are all very busy. I think they make funny excuses because they don’t want to have more work. One or two are really nice and seek help and advice all the time.
Today, Thursday, one teacher wanted me to help him performing a class demonstration on Friday, on wet-to-dry dressing. Yes that’s how it is called.
This one skill performance, as they teach it in the RTC to the students, is from America and has been translated into Khmei language by the RTC teachers a few years ago. There are 27 of those Checklists and the teachers train the students how to do it and how to follow from those checklists in the RTC first. Then the students have to transfer those skills into the hospital. The preceptors responsibility is to make sure, that the student follows always the guideline/ checklist with whatever they do.
Those checklists have a very high standart.
The problem is, that the RTC teachers are actually not quite sure about what certain things mean on the original. So some points are very unclear translated and the result is dodgy teaching and make the students confused.
The next problem is in the hospital. Because the checklists involve a lot of material use, the ward can’t provide that material because it’s just not available. So the students can’t perform the way they should and get bad marks or even fail on assessment. Also some preceptors have never done some procedures as the checklist instructs so they are confused about it.
I discussed that problem with some teachers and they can see the problem but don’t know what to do about it.
I talked through the wound dressing procedure whith the teacher and clarifyed all unclear points. Then I demonstrated the dressing on a pillow on top of a dummy with some teaching material from the RTC. I asked him beforehand if no other teachers did it before and he said, yes they did but they are also not sure how to do it following the checklist.
promotion van passing by
We have July now and the time flys. I start to be part of this town and country. Think less and less about my ‘old life’. I don’t know if that is normal but it might be.
Two years seemed endless at the beginning, but now I start to realize that I don’t have much time left.
I really love my house, relaxing in my hammock and watching the palmtrees and the sky. I love the rattling noise of the palmtree leaves when wind shakes them. Thinking about things. I never really had time for that. I realise that now. It’s great to go with the flow and make things for myself. That’s what I always wanted. To have an easy life and be happy. Only that there are a few things missing to make it complete.
I am also inspired by the book I’m reading at the moment. It’s called: “Yes, man”, by Danny Wallace. There was a film out but I didn’t watch it. The book is really good and I laugh a lot.
I also sleep a lot. Every night more then 8 hours. Have I ever slept so much in my life? Not in the last 10 years. I usually go to bed around 9 pm and wake up at 6:30. I also have sometimes a nap during my lunchbreak. Mostly because of the heat.
my great alarmclock, but always too early!
But of course I also miss familiar environment, close friends and family. At the moment I can’t imagine how it would be to live again at ‘home’ in Oxford. It feels so far away. It is like having a barrier in between. I feel close again when I receive e-mails or letters.
I guess what I miss most are my nieces Matilda and Sophia. Matilda is now 2 years and 10 month old and she speaks English, German and now even some French! Sophia is now 6 month old and is the the sweetest baby on earth.
Am always in my thoughts with you!
nice view from the bridge
Carmi, you are crazy. I’m fully equipped now with series 1&2 from the ‘Inbetweeners’ on DVD and another UK magazine to keep me up to date. I hope you come and visit me over Christmas as you said. That would be absolutely amazing. At this time is also the yearly ‘Ankor Marathon’ and I will find out about what date it is exactly. It is basically running a marathon – 5, 10 or 20 km through the ruins of Ankor Wat. I’d like to try it as well, although you are much more in form then me. I’ll find out!
Yesterday on Sunday we’ve celebrated Delia’s Birthday one week earlier because she is going to Austria in a couple of days and won’t have her Birthday here. So we organised a surprise party for her, actually Helen did. Everybody brought great food and Helen even made an ice-cream chocolate birthday cake
the pre-B-D girl
and her absolutely delicious pizza. She also prepared punsh with self-made wine! That’s why I feel slightly hung over today. We had great fun from 5 until 9pm. We also danced because I brought my laptop with speakers.
The plans for this week have changed. I’m not going to Kratie anymore due to no Clinical Instructor is available. So one more week in ST and the RTC. The following week I might also not go to Chhlong, but defenitely to Siem Riep for the Health Sector Workshop.
I am exited to know that there is a family reunion in France this week and I wanted to let you know that I am strongly thinking of you and will try to contact you this week.
Hopefully we will be able to skype with camera and all that. Wished I could be there.
Take care everyone! Yours Katja
cycling on top of the bridge again
written by  katja-horsch on July 9, 2009 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: 29.06.-06.07.09

7th of July
I think I have my first drop of emotions and self-belief. Probably triggered by having a cold and feeling ill with it and because my proposal was turned down.
Also the anticipated supervision visits in Kratie and Chhlong are not happening this month. That means going to the RTC every day and sit on the desk in front of my laptop and trying to work. But what? Is at the moment my biggest problem… I have the feeling nothing happens and they can well do without me here. So it makes me think of coming home. But not in a serious way of course. So don’t worry, you’ll still have a rest from me for the next months.
the most amazing sunset I've seen here so far
absolutely amazing
Today I got Delia’s motorbike. She wants it to be used because she’s going to Austria for two weeks. So I was cruising around with it and it’s so much fun! I love it so much. It also has the advantage of getting from A to B much quicker and arriving without being sweaty all over. Disadvantage of course no exercise and petrol costs.
So whoever comes and visits me, be prepared for being on the back of a moto!
I most likely have to give it back to Delia when she returns but once her placement finishes in December, I can probably have it.
On the 6th of July it was a sad day for Cambodia because the wife of somebody very important died. So all flags were only half up and everybody was in mourning.
On the 7th of July it was a happy day for Cambodia. It is a celebration day because of a temple in Preah Vehir, which lies close at the Thai border. This temple was finished building last year and it has something to do with the conflict Thailand-Cambodia.
So we had a van here at the RTC who blew up balloons. At 11 am everybody had to stand in front of the RTC, teachers and students and then we sang the national anthem. There were even cameras and people who took pictures. After the singing one was shouting: Preah Vehir! And everybody shouted with raised arms: Preah Vehir! Then clapping and giggling and then they released the balloons into the sky. It was quit nice. In Phnom Penh they have a big celebration with live concerts and so on for a few days.
Even one day later we have the telly on in our RTC office all day where we can see the concerts.
Daniel came also up to see all Health Volunteers in Stung Treng. He is the Senior Programme Manager from VSO Programme Office, based in Phnom Penh. It was very good to see him. I also invited him and Channa, Delia and Louisa for dinner into my house. I cooked Thai Curry. It was nice. That reminds me of mice. Catch regularly again. Anyway. To talk to Daniel was like a brainstorm which I definitely have to do more often. He is very good in what he’s doing I think and he knows a lot about development and budgets and all that. He gave me more good ideas to work on and encouraged me to pick up on old ones which I thought couldn’t be done anyway.
Hor has a bad time at the moment. First his uncle died last weekend, so he had to go to Phnom Penh. Then now his grandmother died and he’s going back to Phnom Penh. Those journeys are all long and exhausting and I feel sorry for his loss. He has applied for a better job in PP where his family and daughter are. It is also with VSO but he’d be in a better position and would earn more money. I hope he gets the job.
Then is the question what happens here in ST when he’s gone. Daniel asked me if his position could be covered by Channa, to use the money we could save eg. to build toilets. Initially I said that I can’t imagine Channa taking over Hor’s job. He is only 21 and just got promoted in his English school, where he teaches. He is a very hard worker, but it might be too much for him. Although I could do most of Hor’s work maybe, I am not familiar at all with all that finance business. But maybe I could learn from it. The project most likely finishes in 2 years and there won’t be more significant changes I think. And once the new volunteer arrives we might can share responsibilities. Her name is Caroline and she’ll arrive in October this year and will work with me taking over the role as Preceptor Advisor. I cover this role at the moment, together with the TDA role.
The reason of thinking so hard about it is, that we really need the money.
So because of Hor’s absence and Channa has some holiday, I am on my own for 3 days in the office, surrounded by all those men.
Another man came to visit Stung Treng for a 1 week workshop here. My good friend Eric Otieno.
hello Oti
With him I did a motorbike trip ( I drove 30 km) to a fresh water whole.
The name is Russey Khandal.
It was absolutely
indescribable beautiful and just bliss.
yes, it is a mermaid!
It has been re-discovered by Otienos Organisation Mlup Baitong and so he knew the way and the place.
The water apparently is so clear, that you can drink from it. I didn’t. But I lay in that nice cool water and enjoyed it so much.
Afterwards we got rained on of course and waited for the rain to stop in one of the huts there. We met 3 little girls and they had stickers and put them on my bag. In return, I gave them chewing gum.
They were so sweet. Apparently not related to each other.
It was also very handy to have Eric around. He repaired the water pipe at my house, talked to my landlady about my broken toilet seat and made her repair it because he can speak Khmer very well.
On Monday, the 13th of July, my little 9 day adventure started. I got up early at 3:30 to take a minivan to Kratie to have two days of supervision in the hospital there. It was a weird moment then, because the minivan was just about to start when a woman said, that she had an Insect in her ear and she couldn’t get it out. It must be normal here, nearly everybody in the van had then a try to take it out. One was holding a torch and another one had a toothpick or something and I couldn’t watch but they were fiddling with her ear about 10 minutes without success. A woman suddenly got some liquid out and persuaded the woman with the insect to put this liquid into her ear. Just then another man was at the ear and the woman was obviously in pain. Fortunately they decided to call a Doctor and we drove with the minivan full of people to that doctor, at 4 o’clock in the morning. After another 10 minutes she came out and the insect was gone. So we drove for 2 ½ hours to Kratie where I met Channa, the clinical Instructor and the Regional Chief Nurse, Sethyll. We had breakfast together and then went to the hospital.
me and Channa at work with our selfmade VSO batches
After talking to the director, who wasn’t very interested at all,
Supervision in Kratie
we went to the wards. All preceptors where not prepared and most of them didn’t actually know that we were coming. So it was more or less a disaster. Everybody was grumpy and I felt that it was pointless. We departed the next day after lunch.
I stayed with Emily in Kratie, another volunteer from VSO ( she is dutch) who is there now for nearly 2 years.
eating brown bread with cheese! at Emily's
She works as a Nurse Advisor in the hospital and things are going well for her. She even thinks of extending her stay. She is great fun and my age!
Emily got soap bubbles out
shower in the rain
So on that Tuesday I had the afternoon off and decided, to see the dolphins, Kratie is so famous for. Emily organised her landladies daughter to come with me and drive me basically to the place with her moto, where the boats go out to see them. She was only 14 but so confident and sweet and we were both exited, when we started. Unfortunately, on the way there it started to rain. By the time we got to the boat, a heavy monsoon developed and no boat went of course. So we were standing in the cold rain and strong wind for about an hour and then decided to go back once the rain got less. I haven’t felt so cold for a long time. My toes and fingers felt stiff because I was so wet and cold. It was disappointing that I haven’t seen the dolphins but I will return one day and hopefully have more luck.
still smiling, although no dolphins seen
In the evening, we went to see Joe. Joe is the owner of a restaurant in Kratie and he is originally from Chicago, but now in Cambodia for over 11 years. He cooks brilliant food and usually drinks during the day. But he is a lovely guy. So we had great fun that night.
at Joe's, he is at the back with greyish hair
On Wednesday morning, we got picked up from the minivan with all the other Health volunteers from Stung Treng inside. We were on our way to Siem Riep to attend to the Health Sector Workshop. That is for all VSO Health volunteers from Cambodia. It was twice a year but now that there are financial crisis’s at VSO too, they reduce it to annual. It was organized by 3 other volunteers. Attended volunteers work as Dietician, Nurse Advisor, Hospital Management Advisor, Health Advisor, Behaviour and Communication Advisor, Midwife Advisor and me, the only TDA and PA.
We all stayed at Smilyes Guesthouse
and the workshop was in the Angkor Hospital for children. A great hospital. Better then any other I’ve seen so far. It is based on donations, so the Cambodian government hasn’t got anything to do with it. Children get free treatment and there are enough drugs and beds available. Per day, they see around 800 to 1000 children. Not all of them get admitted. They also have facilities of following the children up at home.
I felt great to give something for the first time, when I donated blood there. I will do that regularly from now on.
The two day workshop was ok. I didn’t get that much out of it and it was more fun then having serious health discussions or learning something from it. So that’s why I put myself forward in doing the next one. We’ll see…
It was great to see all the other volunteers and exchange information and see what they do. Due to my short stay so far, of course I didn’t have much to say about me, but I can see what is possible and what not.
Siem Riep is a great place.
Traffic in Siem Riep
It looks clean and there are even traffic lights for pedestrians. In the evening, it is not allowed anymore to drive around with the moto. It is a good tourist destination and next time when I have more time, I’ll go to Angkor Wat. Hopefully with one of you guys!
After the first day, we had a little programme where people did together a little bit of entertainment.
me and Mary
We were at a nice restaurant but the prices of food started at 3 to 4 dollars. Usually I go for something that is around 1 to 2 dollars. So it was a great relief, when Susan said, that Daniel would pay for all of us a dish for 5 dollars. That was nice of him. So I had delicious Vietnamese fish with rice.
Entertainment wise I was hooked up with Susan and Ruth ( who was a guest) and Ruth just bought an umbrella the same day. Not knowing what to do, I thought this umbrella would be a nice limbo stick.
Louisa made it, next one is Lucky
So that’s what we did.
Go Trisha, Go!
Everybody who knows me knows that limbo and polonaise are one of my specialities.
Limbo- Helen
I think I did everybody’s back in, including mine. But it was great fun.
Susan, Emily and Noel
a live band in SR! were really good!
a little girl, dancing to the music on the street
Noel buys fruit
me, Emily, Susan and Noel
The last day in Siem Riep I had some time for myself and I was walking around in the early morning to find a bus station and a ticket. Even very early is just so much to see there. For example a shop where they sell things made from crocodile skin. I went in just to have a look and it was horrifying amazing.
Fancy crocoskin ?
Out of an impulsive! decision, I booked myself for an appointment at 10 am for a khmei massage. It wasn’t my intention to do it, but then I got weak by seeing the offer $4 for 1 hour massage and I thought I could try that out. Usually it is 6 to 10 $, so it was a good price. It was a big building and first of all a young girl came and washed my feet. That was a good idea because feet here are always dirty and dusty due to only wearing flip flops all day. Then we got onto the 3rd floor and she showed me a darkish room with two mattresses on the floor. At the end were clothes. She advised me to take my clothes off and put the others on. It was a very thin large white blouse and a very thin large black linen trouser. After I changed, she came in again and started sitting next to me, massaging my back. Suddenly she sat on me and massaged rather hard all of my back and shoulders. Then she massaged my legs for ages and made also different exercises with it, and then she did a foot massage. I was in heaven by then. But if that was not all, she then made me turn over and proceeded with my arms and hands and finished everything with a head massage. I was really happy that I gave it a go, because that was the best massage I ever had (sorry for all the other people who gave me once one, you were good too!).
Taxi driver with passenger on his seat, another 2 next to him and 4 at back
On my way back to Stung Treng I popped into Otieno’s new house. He moved and I helped him a little bit tidying and stuff. He has more mice then I have. He also cut my hair and it looks great now. So I have like a bob now, well still half long.
fish playing wit a ball that looks like the earth
So now I’m back in Stung Treng and it feels good to be back. Feels home.
a famous silver statue
After having had my first day back at work, I feel also good, although I didn’t want to come back first. But I had a successful meeting with the promoted Chief of Clinical Office Dr. Sovann and he gave me promising feedback and he also will work fast on my suggestions. So I have the feeling it’s rolling again.
a rather pale budda
I also have my first visitor coming! Hurray! Carmi was brave enough to book a flight from London Heathrow to Seoul and from Seoul to Phnom Penh. She’ll arrive on the 21st of December and will depart unfortunately again on the 2nd of January. But at least we’ll spend Christmas and New Year together. So much looking forward to that!
But still too little time. Whenever you want to come, try to plan at least 3 weeks. Because it is a struggle with the jetlag and a lot to take in once you arrive. So two weeks exhaustion and one week enjoying. But I can’t complain, I’ve got a visitor!!!
family shrein
Still feeling very homesick. Although I am here now for nearly 3 month, it nearly made me cry when I found a pair of socks today I haven’t warn and I could smell on it the conditioner I used at home. It smelled of home.
I want to finish this rather long blog again with some gentle remainders. If you want to do a fundraise and don’t know for what, let me know. If you want to give a donation but don’t know for what, let me know. Even little amounts can help and you’ll see for what because I can document each step where the money is going to.
Also if you want to send something to me in particular, I need again Mosquito repellent and everything else you might think I need. I live with the minimum and am happy about everything now. Music, Books, Clothes, Stationary…
Thank you for following me up and thinking of me. Keep in touch! Katja
from the travel blog: 06.-23.07.09

I was wondering, why Sihanouk Ville felt so westernised, but it is, as I read now, because it has been only constructed in the late 1950’s as a port city, so the town is much newer, more urban and cosmopolitan that most Cambodian provincial cities.
In general it is Cambodia’s premier beach town, sporting miles of sandy beaches, uninhabited islands and warm tropical waters.
The main city area sits on a beach lined peninsula jutting into the Gulf of Thailand. The pace of life is very relaxed and unhurried. The beaches offer umbrellas, thatched roofed eateries, bars and lots of restaurants, pubs, bungalows and an range of hotels, all making for a laid-back, beachy atmosphere and a great little tropical getaway. It is also a place to unwind by the beach, enjoy the fresh- from- the- ocean seafood , pary at the bars and happenings, take in island excursions or scuba trips and generally slow down, lay back and chill out.
So far so good, little guidebook, but how is it in reality?
I was very lucky to stay in a wooden bungalow at the beach with a wonderful sea view and hearing the waves at all times.
I also didn’t pay that much because of ‘rainy season’ and not many tourists. That was a great experience.
In 6 days there were only 2 days rain, so that also gave a great beach feeling.
I met up with a few other volunteers and we explored the 5 main beaches. Victory beach, which is apparently the ‘Ibiza’party beach
; Independence beach, most of it is closed to the public
; Sokha Beach, with perfect fine off-white sand
; Serendipity Beach
at Serendipity beach
is were I stayed, very popular with lots of accommodation and shacks to party; Ocheuteal Beach
is the same and then at the far end Otres Beach, where it is quieter and less busy.
When the weather was nice we stayed at the beach and chilled,
ate fresh seafood
fresh grilled sea squid
which was offered all the time or any other snacks, like fruit or doughnuts.
Constantly there were little kids, trying to sell bracelets, massages, hair removal or nail painting. Not only them, also cripples, a man with a baby on his arm who said his wife ran away came along and beggars in general. So you were never alone.
little boys selling cake rolls
SV has lots of orphans and poor families and I think they make good business with the tourists there. I had to explain a lot to them: “Knyom neksmetjet, ot mean loy charan”. That means that I am a volunteer and that I don’t have much money.
There was lots of sextourism going on. In the evenings, the young Khmei girls hooked up with single foreign males, those ones who are unattractive and old and you know that they only come there for one thing. Cheap entertainment.
In the streets I saw lots of white foreigners on motorbikes and was asking if they have a driving licence or how can they rent a moto. Driving licence is not needed. Only some kind of ID. The police apparently doesn’t stop because they want to avoid conflict. So basically everything is allowed in Sihanouk Ville.
Including drugs like weed. That was the only open drug offer I had. And everybody smokes weed there openly and everywhere it is allowed. As long as you pay you can do everything you want there.
empty during the day, full in the evening
When we were walking along Otres Beach, I saw a crowd of people standing in the distance and was asking myself, what’s going on there. A party? Coming closer, I saw a man lying in the sand and a white woman over him doing cardiac resuscitation. But far too slow. And the crowd standing around them, a guy doing mouth to mouth resus.
I couldn’t help myself but jumping in and I’m not sure if I pushed the woman away, but she didn’t do it right, so I took over and then realised, that that man was already so blue and so I asked while doing the compressions, what happened. They said he was found around 30 minutes ago floating in the sea. They tried to call the ambulance but their reply was that after such a long time it was too late and he is probably dead anyway. To be honest, I didn’t try long. I gave maybe 3 or 4 more compressions together with the breaths from the guy, felt his aorta for a few seconds and declared him dead. His arms were stiff already as I realised when we turned him over to roll him onto a mat to carry him into a shack to cover the corpse. He was a heavy fat white foreigner and I can imagine he had a heart attack while being in the water or something like that. Also the waves were quit high all week and the stream strong. Nobody knew him but fortunately a guy came on his moto and said that this man rented a moto from him, so he had his passport. At least something. Later on the police arrived and I don’t know what happened then because I had to leave the scenery. It was quit a shock.
On the last day I was there, I did a boat trip to 3 islands, as they advertised it beforehand. One of them was the famous ‘Bamboo-island’. The trip was $14, including breakfast and lunch.
So in the morning I got a lift to the breakfast place and had a baguette with jam and a cup of tea. Then we went to the beach where the boat was already waiting for us. We were a group of people of 7. 3 couples and me. It took more then an hour to reach the first island over the open sea and the waves were sometimes a meter high. So we really had to cling to the boat not to fall out. But once we arrived, we had the opportunity to snorkel in shallow and calm water.
snorkeling on Island trip
Still I couldn’t see much because the snorkel equipment was disappointing and the sea was still not clear because of the storm. Even so I was really nice, because of the sight. And I love it to jump from a boat into blue water..
Next one was Bamboo- island.
We could snorkel again while the guys prepared lunch. Fresh Barracuda fillet from the grill.
there are around 1000 little islands around
That was really tasty.
more tourists on Bamboo-Island
Afterwards we had the opportunity to explore the island more so I went over to the other side and it was also very beautiful there.
jungle feeling on Bamboo- Island
I had a swim and a sunbath and would have stayed longer, if not one Khmei guy had made approaches towards me. So I joined the group again because I didn’t know how to say: Go away! In Khmei.
Bamboo- Island
I was swimming so much that afternoon.
ready for the next island?
It was so lovely.
on Bamboo-island
When we were ready for the third island, the motor of the boat stopped working. We were drifting for a while until finally they dropped the anchor on my suggestion. Of course non of the two guys had money left on the phone so they asked into the crowd who has local SIM. Me! After 5 telephone calls and 2 hours later, a boat arrived and towed away our boat back to the main island.
on the way back to main island
I felt all that was quit exciting and I wasn’t worried for a minute, but those American couples made a big fuss and got a free drink out at the end.
stuck but happy
I just felt sorry for the guys. I mean, what do people expect when they are here? At the end of the day it is still a developing country they are in but it’s easy to forget when you stay in one of the big posh hotels along the coast side .
But this is Cambodia, where people die in the sea and nobody notices it, where little children rummage around in the garbage to find something to eat, where the inhabitants would do anything for money. And still there are generally lovely people, very warm, smiley and helpful.
So I will definitely return, the landscape is just so beautiful and I love the sea. I also got a good tan, haven’t been that brown for a long time.
and this is not fake!
Back in PP I’ve witnessed ‘Cambodian autumn’ in a park with lots of kites and wind.
PP kites in the wind with Independence monument in background
of course I also got one!
written by  katja-horsch on August 10, 2009 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: my trip to the beach

August 2009
So. After being on holiday and having fun, I’m now back at work and do what I am supposed to do. Capacity building and development work.
Stinka is the prettiest cat from Stung Treng
I really have the urge to achieve something while I am here and it is hard sometimes to motivate myself and just keep going. So I try to keep myself busy with putting as much into the day as possible to keep myself occupied. Also having things to look forward to helps, in a short term meaning.
Part of her diet are also gekkos, grashoppers and flies
Yesterday I was looking forward to go to the market and do my weekly fruit and vegetable shopping. I really enjoy that now. A few month ago I felt uncomfortable and anxious about it because of all the people staring at me and laughing and well it’s just so different here. Now I can laugh about myself. The highlight actually yesterday was when I met Delia for lunch and we had a Burger in Stung Treng Burger bar, which I didn’t know it existed at all. Burger with chips, and it was tasty.
a cow sleeps in the middle of the road, why not?
Today I am looking forward to my hairdresser appointment at 5 after work. Lets see if they can give me the highlights I want.
my hairdresser, me with new highlights and she gave a good head massage
I am on my own in the office at the moment, the teachers are mostly busy because students have exams at the moment, Hor is off sick, he came yesterday morning with a big bag of tablets and said, he has Malaria. After the meeting on Monday, he had a bad headache and rigors and he went to the hospital for a blood test. Malaria positive, one plus. Which is not too bad, mild. So I hope he’s taking plenty of rest and his tablets, which he didn’t want to take initially.
On Monday, we had a meeting with all the Health Volunteers from Kratie with their VA’s and Stung Treng Health Volunteers with VA’s.
Purpose was information exchange, discussions about improvement on our work and the VA’s also had the opportunity to gossip about their ‘bosses’, the volunteers. We also invited the Regional Chief Nurse Mr. Sethyl and he came, which was nice. He told us about the coming Nursing Council, which is very exiting and his role and responsibility.
eating pirianha for lunch
I offered my big house because I also have altogether 20 chairs available and originally we planned to sit in the living room on mats on the floor. Deep down I knew at the end it would all happen on the balcony, and it did.
Stung Treng - Kratie Volunteers & VA's on my balcony
It was a whole day meeting, in the afternoon the Kratie group went home again.
girls round
Delia and I decided to go to Kratie on Friday afternoon by motorbike. We will have one moto each and the journey might take 2 to 3 hours. The reason for that is, that it is Suzanna’s Birthday ( she is a Behaviour and Communication Change volunteer in Kratie and has Dengue at the moment) and her husband Roger ( a dedicated English teacher) plays in a Jazz band. And for Suzanna’s birthday, he and his band are playing and I really would like to hear that. Can’t imagine a Jazz band in Cambodia!
At work, I am just trying to prepare for Daniel’s visit in September. We have to develop the Annual Work Plan with planned activities, expected outcomes and evidence of change. We then will meet together with the director of the RTC, the RCN, 2 teachers from the RTC and Hor and me. This is a basic thing volunteers have to do. Proof of evidence that I am doing what I am supposed to do. Which gives me also a clear guideline and aims.
20th of August
As agreed with the RTC, I’m now every Friday in our hospital. Trying to strengthen relationship between hospital and RTC. Also for me it is a good opportunity to see, what’s actually going on in there and I get closer to the preceptors and also to the regular staff and they know me now and are very friendly to me. So in the morning I went with Channa and met students, preceptors and chatted to them and promoted Nursing documentation, showed them how to fill out an Observation chart and a Drug chart. They just don’t know how to do it, so they rarely document anything. It’s pathetic and so frustrating. In the afternoon, we were on the paediatric ward, seeing students there. I noticed, that one of the students went out of the staff room with a syringe. When he came back I asked him, what he had done. He said he gave an IM injection to a child. I asked him if he had documented at all what he gave and when, and he said, the preceptor will do it when he comes back from the lunch break. I didn’t agree with that and made him write a new drug chart for the actual day and tick the box with the time and sign for it. I asked him to report to the preceptor and let him countersign later.
Next I saw a female student, also 2nd year, fiddling with a syringe. I asked her, what she is doing and she said, she’ll give also an IM injection to a child. I asked, who told her so and who will observe her. She said nobody, the preceptor said to do so once the drugs arrive from pharmacy. I asked her if I could observe. So we went to a little boy, max. 3 years old. When he saw her coming, he started crying. Cambodian nurses are very cold. They never try to calm down or take away fear. They just go ahead and do what they are supposed to do. I just couldn’t believe it, seeing a second year student giving an IM injection to a child without any qualified staff around. And the boy was so much crying. The needle was thick and I sat next to the boy, holding his hand and try to calm him down. She gave the injection into his thigh, not very confident though but she found the right spot. I just couldn’t help myself and cried together with the boy while calming him down. I tried to pull myself together but when children cry, I just can’t help it.
Afterwards I asked her, what she gave. She didn’t know and had to look it up from the drug chart. It was Paracetamol. I asked her, if she checked the temperature at all of the child before she gave it, she said, it was last checked yesterday. How often is it prescribed? Three times a day. I nearly started crying again when I found out that the doctor had been already, only comes back the next morning, this boy gets everything else orally and he has to get those bloody painful injections maybe three more times by unqualified staff until somebody comes around to change the prescription. I was really upset and just needed to leave the place.
Nurses here don’t think independently. I even think, they don’t think at all. They don’t care and usually have no background knowledge. They just go ahead, following any order from somebody in white uniform, if they give the wrong injection, tablet, nobody will know, because it’s not documented. If somebody dies, it’s just another one of so many. Nurses here don’t know how to care, to sit down with a patient, having a friendly chat or even holding hands, none of it happens. They don’t even know how to follow the nursing process. They just do the absolute minimum, no cleaning, no tiding, they don’t give painkillers before they change a wound dressing. Patients have to be very tough here, and they are. I’ve seen women after caesarean operations, so weak and pale, they do anything themselves because they don’t get any help from the nurse. All the dirty stuff is usually done by relatives, like going to the toilet or cleaning up afterwards. Nurses here don’t wash patients either. The nurse gives tablets or other meds whenever they arrive from pharmacy, probably they don’t even know about side effects or pre cautions.
It is shocking and I feel that I can’t do anything. And I struggle with that.
On Friday afternoon, Delia and me drove with our motos fortunately to Kratie and that was a good time to take a break from all those things and enjoy Cambodia. It took 2 and a half hours and it was a good ride, because the road was done only a few years ago. Apparently 10 years ago it was still unsafe to go that way because of soldiers and rebels, but now a days it is very safe.
We stayed at Emily’s and it felt like a proper girly weekend. On Friday evening we went to the birthday party which was actually Roger’s and Carl’s B-D-party. Karl is German and is a Chief Technical Advisor, IP-consultant. Works for IP and GOPA. Although he celebrated his 58th birthday, he swung me around with his Latin salsa skills and we had a proper party actually. Half Khmei, half ‘Barangs’, as they say. Barang means foreign, actually French. Also Roger played the Saxophone and Karl the Muntamonika, don’t know the English word, and they had a cool 30min Jazz session.
they gave everything
We drank a lot
Tommi, Suse, Delia, Emily, Karl and me
and had lovely food and the next morning, I had to take it very easy because of a strong hangover. So we lazed on the balcony, watched a film, discussed the men and had lots of Roibosh tea. In the evening we went to a new massage place in Kratie, and we all had a massage for $5. One hour Khmei massage, which is like a workout. No relaxation there, they squeeze and pull and slap and push. But it helped with my back pain which I had then for nearly 2 weeks.
Remnants of the Birthday party
Afterwards we went to Joe’s and had his special of the day. Beef stew with mashed potatoes. Yummy…
On Sunday Delia and me went home around midday, trying to spot some dolphins on the way back, but again, no luck for me.
In the evening I did my washing and packed my bag one more time to go back to Chhlong, passing Kratie the next day, to do Supervision with the Regional Chief Nurse.
Chhlong is a very small, very basic town behind Kratie, passing through it on the way to Phnom Penh. We saw a lot of flooding around that area, which effects harvest and already poor people. I wasn’t aware that the flooding was so severe, but the river is high and maybe there will be also flooding in Stung Treng.
Flooding in Kratie Province
Sethyl and me stayed at a nice guesthouse, very basic, no shower and toilet flush, but it was charming and cheap.
Breakfast in Chhlong
Channa stayed at his brother’s house. After the first supervision day, the clinical instructor persisted, that our group had ‘pregnant egg’ for a snack. I thought I knew what was coming. It is a speciality here in Cambodia, to eat duck egg, with the fully grown duckling inside. So they boil the eggs with the ducklings and then eat the duckling out of it with salt, pepper and lemon. They couldn’t get enough of it, but I just couldn’t. Looking at the little face and the wings and the feet, I tried my best but couldn’t. I had little meat kebab sticks instead.
Channa, Sophany and Sethyl enjoying their eggs
The supervision was interesting. It is not easy to make preceptors learn new things.
during Supervision, preceptor next to me
When you give advise to them they look down, and it feels like speaking against a wall. So I nag them and ask them at the end what they remember about what I’d just told them. Usually it’s a complete different context they start to talk about then. So I try to tell them the key points again and ask them to remember them for a successful assessment of a student.
Wat in Chhlong
During a student assessment, I realised, that another student struggled with a drip of a patient, next to where we were standing. She had a syringe with a needle and tried to inject the drug into the giving set of the drip. Completely on her own. Of course I went there and looked closer what she was doing there. She fiddled with the drip and liquid suddenly purred out. She wasn’t sure what she was doing, but eventually she managed. Afterwards I asked her what she gave and she didn’t know. I asked her who ordered her to give it. She said she was a Primary Midwife student ( equivalent to a Healthcare assistant in the UK and they only have one year training here) and a 2nd year student nurse ordered her, to give that IV drug to a patient. I thought, I need to explode.
So after we gave feedback to the preceptor, who didn’t have a clue what she was doing, I ordered all the other preceptors into the staff room.
I asked them, how come, a 2nd year student can give instructions to a primary student to give an IV drug to a patient, but the students are not allowed to go to the patients and do Observations ( Blood pressure, Pulse, Temperature, RR) on their own.
That just so upset me but I really tried to stay calm and not get carried away.
The preceptors looked at me and found excuses. They had told them to do so, they were around all the time, there is no time to check Observations and so on.
It just didn’t make sense to me. I asked the clinical instructor from the RTC why primary students are allowed to give IV drugs, although they only have one year training. Apparently they do the same as a nurse, but get played even less. I just don’t understand that.
While looking more closely what the other students were doing, I saw them inserting Venflons on their own, mixing IV antibiotics, giving injections, all on their own and to all age classes. Children or Adults, it makes no difference. And they just do it, nobody looks or checks. The nurses are usually not bothered. They also send the students instead of doing stuff themselves.
So how can I live with that. I feel so powerless and want to change things, but I think I just can’t. It is very very frustrating and I feel very sorry for the patients. But they seem to accept it, although they are generally afraid of students.
It is really a complete different world with so different rules and assumptions. I thought I was over the culture shock but now I feel, I am in the middle of it again.
At the moment it feels difficult to accept things like that, because it is against everything I have learned and taught in my home countries.
I feel like I can’t do anything here, it’s like blowing hot air, nothing happens. And it breaks my heart, seeing all those people in pain, babies and children crying, nobody takes real action or good care of them. It’s not good and I’m sitting at the RTC in front of my laptop, trying to train the teachers here who are not interested at all.
Budda at Pagoda
Is this really good what I am doing? I have the feeling it’s not. So I have real doubts at the moment about my placement and being here.
But I want to try and hang on for a bit longer. At least a year. That’s when I should know for sure if it’s worth it or not.
Today, Thursday the 20th, I will give 4 girls from the neighbourhood English lessons. I agreed that at the beginning of the week with their mother, who owns a little restaurant around the corner from my house and I went there a few times now and she speaks good English so we can communicate. I am looking forward to that. A new challenge for me though. But a good experience I hope. We’ll see.
Roundabout in Kratie
22nd of August:
The English lessons went very well and I had a lot of fun. After I practised the ABC song with Delia again, I had forgotten how it was ending, I taught them basic things so far. What is your name. (There names are Peach, Krasmey, Theda and Touch). Where are you from. What is your country and what nationality are you. I can use all those nice participatory teaching methods with them because it is a small group. They are also very interested in singing, so next time I will provide the lyrics for Celine Dions Titanic song, it’s still very popular here. Some are very bright, some not so. To my delight, Vandy, the mother of the four owns this little restaurant and so she didn’t want to let me leave without having had something to eat afterwards. That saves me cooking dinner and her food is really good. Even on Saturday, Theda ( one of the daughters) came along and brought lunch, for ‘le cru’, that means: teacher. They don’t say my name but always teacher, and I don’t know yet if I like it or not.
Helen gives health education about respiratory desease at the hospital
24th of August:
I still have mixed feelings about being here. This morning, cycling to the RTC, I nearly had an accident with a moto, who wasn’t looking. Then I was really frustrated. 5 meters further two little kids shouted ‘hello’ to me, waving and with smiling faces.
That made me feel better immediately.
sunset over the Mekong
Hor has recovered from his malaria and was bright and cheerful in the morning. He asked me if I want to try to apply for home- internet with Mobitel. Of course I want, so we will go to the phone shop this afternoon and maybe I get wireless installed into my house! It’s around $30 per month and I think its not too bad.
a visitor at night
After Channa told me that he had grilled mice for dinner, apparently special mice grown for eating. He said they were very tasty, specially the tail… He also told me that his girlfriend left him. She found a much older married man, who offered her to support her studies with money and gets from her in return a sexual relationship. And it is so sad, because he really loved her but she left him because he is poor and supports his family, with the little money he earns.
Another thing for me to look forward to is that my beloved mum and sister will come next year in January to visit me for 2 weeks. That is soooooo nice and I can’t wait. I feel so happy that first Carmen comes and then my family. So exiting!!!
To all my friends, who have clothes or material, anything that can be used but isn’t in use, instead of throwing it away, please give it to my friend Carmen in England – Oxford or to my mum in Germany – Guestrow. Everything is needed here and poor people appreciate everything. So collecting can be started now. Especially expired hospital material or teaching equipment. Even English books would be great!
Thank you! Hope you are all well! Lots of love, yours Katja
from the travel blog: August 2009

16 months here
chum-riep-sur!
The kittens are 3 month now and the female one (Phia) is already in Kratie to start her new life with Abi. She has a new name now, called: Rocky Lobster, as far as I'm aware.
we are nearly 3 month old now!
The other two I am still in the process of "selling". Even wrote an article in our local volunteers magazine:
About cats and other bad luck
It is rare to find a female cat in a Cambodian household. Usually, as soon as female cat babies are born, they get killed by drowning or feeding them to the dogs or pigs. The same happens usually with female puppies.
The reason is that they just keep on producing more and more babies. As if it was their fault.
They also always have to hide in order to survive. As everyone knows, the dogs like to chase cats and usually once the dog has bitten the cat it hasn’t got a happy ending.
Rambo comforts Tilda
Phia
little Tilda...
If I think of my cat Pixi, who I left in England,
she had such an easy life. She had kittens twice, then got neutered by an expensive vet. She had all her regular check-ups and even a chip into her neck implanted so that she couldn’t get lost. A variety of cat food stood in front of her pink nose every 8 hours and she liked to laze around usually on the pillow of my bed (which she wasn’t actually allowed to lie on and she knew that exactly).
Here in Stung Treng I adopted a female cat who just happened to be around. She was especially attentive to me, because she was pregnant. Usually that happens in this situation. Cats are more lovingly and show you their love all the time.
Srey-Niem wasn’t different. So I felt the affection and started to give her attention too and I bought fish for her. Cambodian cats usually get a mix of three quarters rice and one quarter fish.
In addition they catch mice of course and if they really love you, they leave you a present. I wondered what the smell was in my room for 3 days, then I discovered a rotten mouse under my bed. The other day I nearly tread onto a mouse head left in front of my door and one day, I even had a dead gecko lying there.
little Phia...
so curious...
Yes I know you're looking for a nice home...
A cat pregnancy lasts around 65 days. When Srey-Niem went into labour, it was around 4.30 in the morning and she kept trying to crawl under my mosquito net. She was very demanding. I had a big plastic bowl with towels prepared for her, but she kept jumping up to my bed, even when the water was broken already. So I put her back into the bowl and stayed with her and witnessed the birth of 2 little kitten babies in the early morning hours. She didn’t give a noise away and she did it all by herself. It was amazing. Then I had to go to work and when I came back, there was another one. 3 newborn ginger kittens arrived and have now all their live ahead.
How will it be, I wondered? So far they have the best treatment and my Cambodian family is a little bit ashamed about it. Me, the barang buying fish for them at the market and bringing cat food from Phnom Penh, building a box for more protection, washing the towel they sleep on, building a cat toilet, filling the water bowl every day with fresh drinking water, giving them warm attention and play time. That is very unusual here as you all might know. What will the neighbors think?
very tired from so much playing...
Srey-Niem is about 3 years old and she has had kittens regularly. That means all the time. I’ve seen the last one’s just died away on starvation and disease. Nobody cared for them. For me that is a difficult thought.
I am glad that I can make a difference this time and so far, all 3 kittens are very healthy and pure joy. They grow steadily and get every day wilder. I asked my little friend and my two nieces at home to give them names. So the two boys are called: Rambo and Tilda and the little girls name is: Phia.
All three eat solid food now and I am proud to say that they are potty trained. On the 13th of September, they will be 3 months old.
I love them very much and don’t want to give them away. But of course it would be better, if one of you VSO volunteers (or if you know someone else who can provide a good home for them) would like to have a little mouse eating companion. You then can try to persuade me and the names are changeable.
Little Phia found already a home. She is going to Kratie soon, Abi very kindly takes this bundle of joy to give her a wonderful start into her new cat’s live.
I could get hold of the vet in Stung Treng to stop any more pregnancies after finding out about possible contraception for her. He is able to give a quarterly hormone injection. Neutering is not available for female cats here in Stung Treng. The male cats get castration for 10$ on the kitchen table. Men always have it easier. But unfortunately for Srey-Niem it is too late. She is pregnant again.
mother and son
It might sound funny, but I can see similarities between female cats and Cambodian women, who live in rural areas.
It is about the suppression, living a life that is constantly focused on own survival and the survival of the children, getting pregnant and having no protection, fighting constantly for food and living in the hidden.
this is not my demon, its a real cat!
I couldn’t have imagined to have a cat or pet while I am here, but I can assure, it is not a bad thing at all. It keeps you company and makes you laugh and it’s good for your well being I believe. Of course we all go home at some point, but then we will leave a happy, strong, well fed cat behind who will be thankful that you shared your love with them. And the next volunteer might be happy to take over from you.
So if you want a cute kitten but they’ve all gone already
this time, don’t worry, in 65 days, there will be more!
Miau! Contact me! Katja Horsch.
089 233 458. Free delivery and cat food!
This is it, no more about cats in the next blog. I promise!
Here some more interesting stuff:
We had the british Ambassador for a visit at the RTC which was exiting!
questioning some students about their student life at the RTC
a tour around the student accommodation buildings
these are books I've received for free by an english training course designer
our workplan in drawing
Carol and me
I've also been invited to do some training support in Oli's hospital in Thmar Pouk in the North-west. That was a nice experience and I basically helped the Chied Nurse to do a presentation about the new nursing documentation and about the nursing process and afterwards we went to the wards to practise everything.
with Sokpha, Oli's VA and Mr. Vannak, the Head nurse of TP RH
a midwife puts her ideas onto the board
at the peadiatric ward in Thmar Pouk
I've also visited Oli's newly build childrens ward which looks fab. He is now in the process of making it child-friendly.
Chanty and her second baby
Thmar Pouk itself was beautiful as ever
but also very muddy, especially because there are no proper roads to walk on...
Oli's daily way to work...
ot la-or!
On the way home, Oli accompanied me to Siem Riep and we stayed there for another few days, because it's so nice there.
"we are not here to be eaten, we eat from your feet!"
a slightly crazy Cambodian, who then later jumped through that ring of knifes
Apsara dancing in the temple-bar in Siem Riep
We've been to Phnom Penh for several occasions, mostly meetings : )...
jame's Birthday party in CHOW
what about your hair like this, Susan?
food is coming soon!
Mr. Health and Safety wears a yellow jacket even in Phnom Penh!
Holli and Carol in Kratie, enjoying the Sunset
all nursing students year 3 infront of the RTC
We've also visited Diamnond Island and Naga-World, which is a huge expensive complex with a casino.
the newest addition to PP's Diamond Island is this Kitsch Park
... just can't get enogh...
Cambodian darting- 1 dart, 1000 Riel
usually I am good in darting...this time it took me 5 darts to hit one ballon
After dragging Oli into the merry-go-round, he needed 5 minutes afterwards to gain normal skin colour back
Phnom Penh newest high-tech construction project
Win Big!
a giant chandelier from below in Naga World
inside the Aristrocrat Wine and Cigar Bar, only affordable because of happy hour!
hairy butterflys on the ceiling to promote malaysian mooncakes
in front of Naga World, PP
And also we went to see several films in Meta-house, which is run by Germans, and downstairs is an art gallery with changing exhibitions...
so rude...
We had volunteer gatherings in Stung Treng...
this hideous dress I got as a present from my landlady who thinks, I look with it like a film star!
we had all veggi food, yum!
Party in Carols house, Maria, Ferdi, Carol, Linda, Louisa, Ant, Rach and me
Touch made Sushi!
the waffle lady in Stung Treng, mmmhh yummy!
I've been to Kratie for one week to observe the Facilitators of the 2nd Preceptor & Clinical Instructor Training week, which capacity I tried to built up.
I stayed with Abi,
Abi and a neighbours baby
who is another VSO Health volunteer and who works as a Nursing Advisor in the Referral Hospital.
Abi in her house with neighbours children
We had a lot of fun during that week and it was workwise also very productive and interesting.
Abi and Mr. Rithy
me with my favourite teacher from the RTC
me and Abi on the way to a massage
Kratie view
red flower tree in Kratie PHD
all participants from the 2nd Preceptor and Clinical Instructor Training week in Kratie
Kratie, there's a shower on the way...
Kratie River view
my Heros! Mr. Sinal, Mr. Sokoehn, Mr. Rithy and Mr. Seylak
Back in Stung Treng, we celebrated Hor, who moved on from his Job in the RTC to a Job with VSO in the Programme Office in Phnom Penh. That means that our team in the RTC has become smaller and Carol and me have to struggle through all the financial issues of the project ourselves.
the Stung Treng Dwarfs... me, Maria, Ant, Rach and Carol
this dish is called: cow climbing up the hill
Hor's goodbye party in Stung Treng with all the Stung Trengers
our last picture together on Hor's leaving do : (
a Cambodian and a Brit
Hor and Sithon sing Karaoke in Stung Treng Karaoke Bar
Another reason to go to Phnom Penh last month was, that Holli and Nono were leaving Cambodia after 2 years. It is really strange saying goodbye to people you've known now for the entire time being here and suddently they go home and you stay on.
on Nonos last night in Cambodia. Holli left the day after Nono left : (
Emily and Holli
Live Jazz in Studio 182
Oli and Emily
yes, Mr. Hendrix was there too!
We visited Paul, who had a fractured leg and enjoyed the pool at the Pavillion...
poor Paul with his plaster...
volunteers have a life, I tell you...
together in the Pav, visiting Paul
the very appriciated library in the PO
how much I like the Programme Office... it's my second home.
the living room area in the PO
A 5, Programme Office PP
It was really hard to say goodbye to Holli, who unfortunately lately suffered for the second time from Dengue fever...
This is all you take with you after spending 2 years in Cambodia...
goodbye Holli! See you in Oxford!
I hope to see her in England next year when I return.
Oli and me have to prepare for this year's Angkor Wat run! It's the time of the year again. It will be this year on the 5th of December and I remember last year, how hard I trained for it first with Delia, then on my own during ICT, then also with Oli and I did the 10 km in 56 minutes. It was amazing.
This year I feel rather unfit and a little slow and I can't imagine to do the same again, but the competitive side in me thinks, I can even do a better time.
To have another challenge, Oli and me want to do the 30 km bike ride as well a day before the run. Gosh, he's so ambicious and super fit!
To train for it, we go running at the Olympic stadium or at the River side when we're in PP.
the Olympic Stadium in Phnom Penh early moring
Oli tried to beat me in running, not knowing about the consequences...
after the resuscitation
all hot and sweaty at 7o'clock in the morning
On our last trip to PP, I showed Oli the beautiful Royal Palace. I've been there before with Antje and Mami, so the you've seen pictures before, but these ones Oli took are just spectacular. He's a very good photographer. Enjoy!
Oli what are you staring at?
Otherwise Oli and me discovered the Lindy-Hop-Swing-Dancing and trying to get lessons whenever we are in Phnom Penh. It's great fun and sooo groovy.
Then I am in the process of re-registering with the NMC. And the Highlight is that I am very exited to announce, that Dave is coming to visit me this coming weekend.
The bad news is, that my camera is completly dead now so no more pictures so soon from me...
The next blog will be about the north of Vietnam. Oli and I are planning to fly to Hanoi in 3 weeks for 10 days! It will be the Royal Ploughing festival here in Cambodia so many Holidays are coming up again!
Otherwise I hope all is well and the autumn back home is glorious.
All the best and hear from your soon! Love from your Katja!
a VIP Tuk-Tuk
written by  katja-horsch on September 14, 2010 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: 16 months here

1.6.- 7.6. 09
Monday, 01 June 2009
Yesterday I’ve seen a real scorpio infront of Helens house. It was as big as my hand and black. We were just returning from the weekly “Banchow” place, which is next to Helens house. Banchow is a dish, it is a giant thin omlette filled with soja beans and some minced meat. You eat it rolled into different leaves with your hands after dipping it into a tasty sauce.
Scott had the honor to kill the scorpio because Helen was worried it might do harm to children running around her house. So he stood on it with his foot and then it was dead.
Talking about animals. Last night a noise kept me awake. Something scratchy next to me. When I had the guts to look what it was with my torch, I saw a giant cocroch at my window. Eventually, I overcame my disgust and pushed it out. I then went into the kitchen, that was all around midnight, and there it was. A giant rat sitting on the sink, jumping off when I came. I couldn’t see where it went.
In the morning, on the way to the bathroom, I had another heart attack. Suddently something jumped at me out of nowhere, and tried to escape through the gaps at the front door. It was a cat! No idear where it came from, but I hope, it ate the rat over night (Sorry Carmen).
I also have a lot of gekkos in the house on the wall and they make funny noises.
Gekko
And every evening, a dog makes itself cosy on the front steps of the house. The doggy seems calm and harmless.
my visitor in the evening
Otherwise my day at work was good. Had a meeting with the 2 English teachers who teach the students twice a week basic English. VSO supports them and I can sit and observe one of them tomorrow morning and give them feedback.
Then I discussed with them my idear, starting a choire. I wrote the word choire down, because they didn’t know what it was. So I explained it and they were really positiv about it. At the end of the meeting( which took 2 and a half hours), one of them pointed at the word choire like they never heard about it and asked me, what it means. At the end we decided it is like a band. Well, lets hope it will work out.
In the evening Delia and Scott came around and they put on my new hamock and it’s so cool. Lying in there and letting the time pass. It’s very comfi.
Tuesday
My day started by spending 2 hours in a class of more or less 30 student nurses, year 2. They were very shy and they were encouraged to ask me some questions.
It was strange to stand infront such a big class and shouting at them, that everybody can understand me. But it also felt natural and more and more I have the feeling, that I am getting used to it. So I told them something about me and then they asked me about nursing in Europe and so on. Some of them really try to speak well, some can’t speak anything, unfortunately. Then I sat at the back and joined the lesson of Mr. Voeun. He speaks funny broken English but it is ok. I feel like being the English expert here, having reports to correct and also they expect me to teach some English language to the clinical Instructors from the RTC. But I explained to everyone that it is only my second language and I’m not perfect in it. But so far to be honest, I feel confident with it.
In the English class we had some group discussion about what pets they used to have when they were younger. They were just in the process of learning when to use “use to”. So it was funny to hear, their pets were pigs and waterbuffalos.
All together it was great, apparently it is very rare that a foreigner speaks to them.
I will give Mr.Voeun some feedback on Friday. He had to go, doing more teaching somewhere else. I think he was good, tried to involve all of them and he also used different participatory approaches. It was just so noisy from outside and not all students pay attention at all times for 2 hours. So some disappear for a while in the middle of the discussion, some don’t have books and can’t follow, some do something else, like homework I thought.
In the afternoon, I prepared a little teaching session about ‘how do we learn and different learning styles’. I was asked to do teaching sessions for the clinical instructors and I think to start from the beginning it is important to understand about the learning process. Then they want me to show them some practical skills with equipment at some point.
On my way back from work I stopped at Helens because she wanted to give me something, Evic had left for me. It was a big Teddy bear. She had it in her house and thought, it can give my company in my house. The thought is very sweet.
In the evening it was raining heavily. After my portion of instant noodles, I went to bed early and closed the door to my bedroom. That night it was much better. I slept through and couldn’t hear any rat noise. There are defenitely still some buggers around, who nibble on my soap frequently.
Wednesday
In the morning we met at a Vietnamiese noodle place for breakfast. Delia was sad because she had to say goodbye to her sweetheart. It made me sad too. But she will see him again in a few months, so it is not too bad. Those noodles soups are so tasty.
Afterwards to work.
In the afternoon I’m going to the Wat because Helen will do a speech there. It is a HIV/ AIDS awareness, “candlelight” meeting , and they wear caps and t-shirts with the logo:
‘O.K. Condoms’ on it. Hilarious.
It was a great afternoon.
Louisa, Delia, me and Helen
The Pagoda was full of students ( some also from the RTC)
students listen of course
and we were sitting opposite them, being honoured to have attended.
Sambath, me, Louisa and Wuddy
Also Helens VA Sambath was there and Luisas VA Wuddi.
at the meeting
Louisa, Delia, Wuddy and Helen
Helens speech was great. Afterward 3 other important people did speeches but it was more or less the same. We sat for nearly 3 hours on the floor, next to the monks who received some presents.
During the chanting of the monks, we did light our candles and prayed for the effected people.
Delia is holding her "candle light"
The astonishing thing then was, that there actually were some people with HIV in the pagoda and they then had to come forward and then they received presents.
It had something really welcoming and open minded. In all their speeches they pointed out how important it is to include people with HIV and so on, but I was surprised about how open they handled it in reality.
inside the pagoda
Afterwards, Helen, Delia and me had “Banchow” and then a big thunderstorm
the thunderstorm is arriving...
came so I went to Delia’s and looked through her DVD library. And I got a few good films. That will keep me occupied and my mind off feeling homesick.
Thursday
The Kadoorie project has been extended. That is good news. Daniel from the Programme office wanted to come to ST to talk about new activities and achievments, but the director can’t make that date. So, we will go to PP next week on Wednesday. I’m looking forward to that. Also it feels amazing to be actively there in decision making about a big project with lots of money involved. It is different from working on a ward directly or being somewhere in the field. This is more about developing the actual action plan. And it feels important and exciting to be part of it.
All day at work we did brainstroming about that meeting and we have now a good list of ideas to discuss in that meeting.
When I think about it, travelling for 9 hours to PP on Wednesday for a meeting on Thursday morning and then going back for 9 hours on Friday. But PP, the world of supermarkets and Internet- acess and post-offices!
In the evening, I killed 3 big coqurotches. I sprayed them with anti ants spray to death. I didn’t want to, but I am also afraid of them. It took me a time to push them onto a piece of paper and then throw them out of the window.
Friday
Well, I agreed on having a cleaner once during the week. Malynn is her name and she came for the first time this morning. I asked Channa to translate some instructions for me, because we can’t communicate yet. So when she arrived I gave her some pieces of paper where Channna wrote down in Khmei what I wanted to do with her. First of all I wanted to go to the bank with her to get some money. Then I wanted her to choose what she needs for cleaning at the market and I would pay for it.
Because I live around 1 km away from the market, I took her on my bike, she sitting on the end, as Cambodian people do it. It is so funny to try to speak to somebody who doesn’t understand a word and the other way around. But smiling helps and nodding. So somehow we got a good mousetrap, one where the mouse or rat goes in but stayes alive so that I can put it outside.
the mouse trap
I also found candles.
enjoying the lazy hanging around
When I arrived at home for my lunchbreak ( I had hot sweetcorn and a rice muffin), I returned to a nice clean and de-dusted house. It felt good, also it felt more lively. She even made my bed.
It slowly feels normal to be here and actually I’m beginning to like it. I am independent with my little bike and I even start recognising people on the street or in the market.
evening mood at over the mekong
Work feels busy now because I’m writing lots of reports and Hor and me help each other out. Also I gave feedback this morning to Voeun, one of the English teachers and I have the feeling, there is more to come from him.
Generally I slowly but surely get into the project and can see more clearly about it now.
Also the trip to PP had to be rescheduled because the director had problems with the appointed date. So now we now go to PP on Thursday next week, have the meeting on Friday morning and then we decided to stay until Sunday. Hor can visit his family and I can do shopping, shopping, shopping. Also my mobile phone is slowly dying, I think I need a new one.
On the following Monday, we will then travel together with Setill, the Regional Chief Nurse, to Ratanakiri province for a supervision visit of a Preceptor. I am so exited about that one, because Ratanakiri is supposed to be beautiful. Ethnic minorities, elephants, waterfalls and jungle combine to make this one of the most popular provinces in the northeast, my guidebook sais. It also served as a base for the Khmer Rouge leadership during much of the 1960’s. Pol Pot fled there in 1963 and established headquarters in the north of the province.
Gem mining and tourism form the lifeblood of the province. I really want to go for a swim in Boeng Ueak Lom, the vulcanic lake. Delia was there already and somehow I said something like- and then I can try out my new swimming costume- and then she looked at me and said, that nobody goes for a swim in that. They wear normal clothes, like T-shirt and trouswers. Well, I’ll find out. Also there is the Virachay National Park, which is popular.
I will stay in Ratanakiri until the end of the weekend, so alltogether for a week. And I had to take only one Annual leave for that.
Tomorrow evening I told everyone to come because I’m having my housewarming party. Don’t know how to manage yet, with only 2 forks, 2 spoons, 4 plates, 1 wok
and 4 glasses. I hope Helen can bring her rice cooker and then I make the only thing I can cook well and have the ingridenens for, my Thai curry. Will go to the market in the morning. Maybe I will be able to buy some meat. So far, I just couldn’t. The smell and the look of dead animals is nearly unbearable. The same with fish.
my new dress, like?
Saturday
This morning, there was a mouse in the mousetrap!
I've got one!
Hurray. Much smaller then I expected it to be. I think, I have no rats actually. The noise in the night comes from the gekkos I figured out. So I let the mouse out at the river. Hope, it doesn’t find the way back.
Then I went shopping for the party. I bought cutlery and plastic cups, salad bolwes, lots of fresh veg and fruit at the open market behind the hospital ( I like it there more then the inside central market). I was also looking for deko for the house but couldn’t find anything, exept deko used for Wat’s and Pagodas. So after I picked up Helen’s ricecooker, I stole some flowers from Delia’s garden. She has such a pretty flower garden.
Cambodian wild flowers
Then I started to prepare. This might be boring for guys now, talking about food preparation… First the fruit salad. I bought lovely apples from New Zealand and a fresh pineapple and lytchie fruit. That all together and a little bit of palmsugar and lemon juice and then into the fridge.
Next the curry. You might all know how it tastes, having eaten it before in our house. But the challenge with this one is, that there is no coconut milk to find. Only fresh coconut stuff shredded off the coconut itself. So I bought some of that and then soaked it in water for a while. Then I put it through a fine siv and there was my coconut milk. Also I used first time baby- aubergines with it and it really works. Instead of lime leaves I had lemon grass and lots of fresh basil. Because I didn’t have much money left at the end of my shopping trip, I could only afford to buy a very small piece of beef meat and put that in. The left over dry coconut stuff I used to sprinkle onto the fruitsalad. Isn’t that very interesting to put into the travel blog? : )
Then I made a green salad out of cucumbers and salad leaves, an onion and lemonjuice. I couldn’t find red tomatoes yet. They sell them green.
At 5 pm Kahn came and we chatted a bit. He visited Helen at lunchtime and then he had school. Helen suggested to him that instead of becoming a doctor, he could start his career by becoming a nurse first. So he asked me if I could find out for him about that. He said that Helen is his mother and I have become his bigger sister. Isn’t that nice? I feel still a little suspicious but I think, he means good.
At 7 people startet to arrive and we ate and chatted on the veranda. Helen made also some pizza bread! How, I don’t know, because neither of us has an oven. It was amazing and with real cheese! I need to get some in PP.
Jo, say cheese!
They liked the food. Unfortunately the majority of Cambodians don’t drink much, so they brought coke and different soft drinks.
my party guests
The other volunteers luckily brought beer, because also for that I didn’t have mony left at the end of my shopping trip.
Hor and his wife
Hor and his wife, Evica and me
At 10 pm it was all over. I could’t believe it. But apparently that is the usual time to leave. Chantra had to go home because his mother was alone at home, waiting for him. And he is about 40 years old. But he once told us his story. He, his sister and his mother survived the Khmer Rouge. They had to work very hard and starved, and lived with constant fear. He also saw lots of people getting killed, also his father was a victim. So he is now looking after his mum, who is still traumatised very badly and lives in fear.
Cambodians are so family orientated. They usually live all together. The younger care about the older by working and giving the money to them. Kahn eg, he gives all his money to his parents who can’t work anymore. He lives with some relatives who support him here in ST. When he looked at my house he went through the rooms and said, so this is all for you alone? I said yes and felt bad.
He was also ment to get married 2 years ago, a girl he didn’t know. He can think so clearly, that if he would have married her, he would have ended up as a farmer. But he wanted to study medicine. So he refused.
Channa is the 11th child in his family. The youngest. He is 21. He studies every day. Monday until Friday he teaches English and works with me. In his lunchbreaks he studies Korean language. On the weekend he goes to university all day and studies more English. He appears a bit weak to me and tired recently, even fragile. He also has a cough. I think it is just too much for him, but he said he hasn’t got a choice. I really hope, that one day he can relax a bit more. I keep an eye on him.
After I cleaned up I had another mouse in the trap and reliesed it at the river. Then I killed another 2 coquratches in the bathroom. They actually really disgust me. I flushed them down the toilet because last time I threw them out of the window and they had still this poisening spray on them. And there are lots of animals here I don’t want to poison too.
living room, tidy
my bathroom
Anyway, hope everything is well could somebody update me with important events that happen at the moment, like elections in Germany and all that.
By the way, thank you so much for all your lovely e-mails! It is so great to hear from you. That makes me so unbelievably happy.
Lots of love and until next week from PP!
from the travel blog: 1.6.- 7.6.09

October 09
My energy and motivation is back. I feel pretty exited because I found a book that’s called: Funding Agency and Partership Directory under my living room table actually one night. It contains hundreds of Funding Agencies and Schemes to apply for some money for projects etc. I am sure there are many Donors who just wait for my proposal to give their money to us.
The proposal will be again for the build of a new student accommodation building.
First I need the numbers right, so I asked the director to find out about how much we need exactly. Then I have a great describtion about how to write a proper proposal. Beforhand I need to find out who is suitable and who can give enough money. We are talking about around 100.000 US dollar here. But somehow I have a good feeling, if I write a good enough proposal…
Also I feel better to go into the hospital, because instead of teaching unwilling staff about how to do nursing documentation properly, I did an audit with the nurses about it. The outcome will be put into analysis and diagrams and Setyll can use it for his next meeting to encourage about the documentation. And that audit was really good. I also put Channa in charge, so that he gets experiences with that and can add that to his CV.
In a conversation with the director of the RTC I also found out, that students shouldn’t do certain activities like giving iv- drugs or im- injections on their own without observation. He told me to write an incident report about that. Which made me quite happy. That shows, that things like that shouldn’t actually happen and there can be something done about that. This incident form needs to be developed first though. So I suppose I get one from the UK and adapt from that.
Today in the hospital I met again very poor sick people, and then at the end we were in AandE and there was a very sick looking girl. Five people in white around her, fiddling and laughing. One of them fiddled with her hip and I just saw that he gave her an im- injection. Not to the right place. So I was furieous and asked, if there are nurses. No, all students. So I went into the staff room where 3 nurses where watching TV. I made a fuss, and this will be my first incident report. I think AandE hates me now. Channa told me later, that it was the same student nurse, who gave him the im-injection when he had malaria. After that injection, Channa couldn’t walk for 2 days. He also told me, that this student nurse is only in his first year, so they didn’t even have injections in school….
Delia’s mum was here for a week from Australia, which was really nice. She is also a very generous person and brought and bought so many presents for the people here. Unfortunately, she’s leaving again tomorrow.
When I had my English class at Vanny’s tonight, a little dark kitten fell down 10 steps of a staircase. It looked very very skinny and underweight. The hair is quite grown already but from the fragile walk and apathic look it looks like it’s nearly dead. It is also so tiny and light and very smelly. I just felt so sorry for it, and Vanny and her family have already 3 dogs and 4 cats, so they don’t mind at all what happens with it. The mother cat had 3 kittens and 2 are already dead. So she is the only one left and I think the mother cat stopped feeding her or something. Peach actually doesn’t like it and wished it was dead. I just couldn’t do anything else and decided, to take it home with me to try. Vanny looked at me and said: but it doesn’t eat rice! Apparently all other animals eat rice here.
So on my way home I bought some thick sweet ‘kondens’ milk and tried to feed it. It wouldn’t take from the bowl, so I put some on my finger and it licked a little bit off. I also went to Delia and borrowed some cat food. Will try that out tomorrow morning, because at the moment she seems very tired. I put her on a blanket on the floor and since then she stayed there. I used the parcel, I sent my books over with, to make a toilet for her, because right at the beginning she peed into the corner of my house. I just hope she gets better. She can’t really walk. Her belly is so bloated. Maybe tomorrow I give her a bath. She is very smelly.
She is very cute though. Although the face is so skinny and the eyes look very tired, she has an interesting pattern in her fur. I think I call her Bella.
Bella was very critical over the weekend and gave me sleepless nights. She passed long worms and had fever. I contacted Hor to see if there’s a vet in Stung Treng and he referred me to one. I thought this vet might have only the name but not the skills, but I was completely wrong with that assumption. When he came on Sunday morning, she had diarrohea. He gave her 2 Injections, Paracetamol and Vitamins, and prescribed Water borbor only for her. Borbor is a local dish, it’s rice with meat and salt cooked for a very long time and from that the water. He also left a syringe to feed her. He promised to come back on the same day in the afternoon. He seemed concerened about her. Unfortunately, maybe because of the drugs or I don’t know why, she jumped of the balcony down 1 and a half meters. Fortunately onto a plant, which was under the balcony. But I think she hurt herself and broke her right wrist.
On Monday, she was sleeping more or less all day. She had 5 ml of water borbor every 2 hours. The vet even called to ask if she is better.
And she is better actually. She looks slightly more perky, crawls around more and looks more interested in things. She looks more like a kitten now, not like a sick starving hook. Although she hates the feeding procedure. No more diarrhoea. The vet said if she hasn’t got a poo, he will even give her a supposotory. The funniest is, that he also prescribed tiger balm to rub onto her bloated belly. I’ve never heard of that. But I do it and hopefully it works.
The other thing that happened is, that Sareth moved in with me. Well, temporarly. She is with me since Saturday night, mainly to have piece to learn for her forthcoming exams. She sleeps in my spare room and it is nice to have company. She also helps me with Bella and feeds her, when I am at work. And she persists to cook. Which I enjoy actually. Yesterday we had noodle for breakfast, noodle for lunch and noodle for dinner. But I don’t mind anymore. She is lovely and we understand each other although her English is not brilliant. But it’s getting there and she learned already a few new words. Otherwise she would be in the student accommodation where everybody is panicking at the moment because the whole school has exams. So she enjoys it and has her own space and piece to learn. And we get to know each other.
I went for my first run on Monday morning with Delia for 30 min. It was lush at 6 am in the moring, the sunlight so gentle. I really enjoyed it and did better then I thought. Today I can feel it in my legs and Delia texted me already if I want to run again tomorrow morning. Well want, I actually want something else at the moment, but I do it. For the shape and condition. And afterwards I felt better.
07.10.09 Wednesday
We went for a run again this morning and the flooding fades slowly.
Then I went to work and refined my proposal. The students have exams at the moment and all teachers are very busy.
When I came home for my lunchbreak, Bella was dead. She was lying very stiff and cold on her blanket. I felt so sad.
I burried her under a coconut tree.
Without Bella and Sareth, the house feels empty. Sareth went back home to see her family, after her exams had finished. She was so sad to leave, but I’ll see her and the other two girls next week, before I go to Phnom Penh. They will stay in my house during my In-Country-Training for 2 months.
Last night I gave a party. There are not enough partys going on in Stung Treng. So I invited everybody that was in my phone list and alltogether, 6 people showed up. First we ate, I made a curry and salads, then we played a game and then we danced a little bit.
Yesterday morning, Delia, Louisa and me went for a photo-shooting.
getting ready for the phot shoot
It is the kind of thing every volunteer does, it is just so typical Khmei.
It is about looking like a Khmei princess, all dressed up and with lots of make-up.
Louisa got great hair
So we went to the photo-shop at 9am and at 11, our make-up was done. It was amazing, what they can do actually.
post photo shoot, Delia in the dressing room
Then we choose dresses and for the second shoot, an Apsara costume.
All that bling! It was an amazing experience. Am looking forward to the developed pictures…
On Friday, we moved office in the RTC. The new building, which took around 3 years to build is now finished and it is now the office building. So all teachers and the director sit in there. Also our VSO office. We share it with the director of the technical office Dr. Sovann and another teacher, Mrs. Sophany. It even has air con!
On Monday afternoon there will be a little party apparently to appreciate the new space. The old building will be from now on only classrooms, because the number of students being recruited increases gradually.
Happy Birthday Regina!!! Where are you? Keep in touch, want to know how you are!
14.10.09 Wednesday
I’ve just about recoverd from the inauguration party from the RTC. Gosh, I’ve never been to something like that. First of all, Delia and me had our run at 6 in the morning, and that day I felt really tired, was looking forward to my lunch break nap. The announcement was to have the party after lunch, so I was saving my dress for the afternoon.
At 10:30, we were suddently invited to come upstairs to the meeting room to join the party. That is typical Khmei, unpredicted and completely out of the blue. So we went upstairs and there was so much food, haven’t seen so much nice looking food for a long time.. I wanted to sit with the other teachers, but the director invited me to his table, together with the vize director, the director of the Provincial Health Departement, the Chief of this and the Chief of that. Important people. It was ok, but boring. The party was going on next to us on the big table. I saw that they were all drinking beer, well actually binging it. So once one had a glass filled, they were drinking to each others health and the new building and to the King and Queen and then everybody had to empty the glass. Usually Cambodians don’t drink or at least only very little. But this was like a booze-up. I was sticking to Fanta and Coke, because I just wanted to see what happens and not to embaress myself.
At 2 pm, everybody was drunk, including the director and all the important people. I asked Mr. Chann Vann, a teacher, if it’s time to go home now, because I felt so tired and just wanted to go to bed. But he said, this will go on now for a long time, and I also had the feeling that nobody was allowed to leave really. So the tables and the floor looked like a mess. Cambodians throw bones, tissues, everything onto the floor. They also spit out whenever they like onto the floor.
I changed my place and laughed so much about the drunk teachers. Also suddently there were so friendly to me and I had the longest and best conversation ever with Dr. Tat Sovann, who is the Director of the technical office and who is usually very tight lipped. That’s when I started drinking as well. I’ve learned ‘Bottom empty’ and I taught one teacher to say: would you like to dance? So the time passed and yes, we were drinking, messing around with food, at the end a little bit dancing and chatting away until it was 7 pm. Most of the teachers were completely wasted by then and so some 3rd year students were invited to finish off the beer and food. I got myself out of it after having huged and kissed the director, vize director and Mr. Tat Sovann. So funny…
For the next day I had arranged to have a meeting with Mr. Tat Sovann. He was there, and I think everybody had a very bad hangover. I went through my Annual Work Plan with him. I was very happy when the day had finished.
Today I feel much better, had a run again this morning and I saw fog over the river. It just looks so lush so early in the morning. And then I am very thankful to be here.
15.10.09 Thursday
Happy happy Birthday, David Pilz! Am thinking of you and hope you are well.
This Friday, I am going to Phnom Penh for my ICT. The new group of health volunteers will arrive today from all over the world. That will be finally MY batch, I was waiting for, for 5 months now. So I am looking forward to meet new people, spend some time together and most important, learn the language properly. We’ll have language training every day for 4 hours, including Saturdays. At some point we will move to Kampong Cham, where a guest house provides for us accommodation for nearly 2 months. The ICT will be finished on the 12th of december. I have no idea if they will have internet connection there but I hope they will.
During the placement visit week in mid November, I am planning to take some leave to go to Japan.
Will keep you all up to date. I hope you are all well. As I heard, you have autum now. Here, the rain has stopped more or less and it is hot again every day and the sun shines and I feel good. Take care everyone, you are always in my thoughts. Lots of kisses from your Katja!
written by  katja-horsch on October 13, 2009 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: VSO experience in Cambodia

visitors
Finally, I am back home.
The four weeks of exiting visits and visitors has passed quickly and now I am sitting on my balcony in Stung Treng, watching the scenes on the street, next to the river, where the cows pass along, looking for food. There are 5 little boys, playing on the pavement with a big plastic bottle which is connected to a string. One of them is pulling it and the others run after it in order to catch the plastic with their feet.
Another boy has a plastic machine gun and holds it proud into the air and screams words, I don’t understand.
It is Sunday, but it seems like a normal working day. Somehow, Khmer people don’t have weekends, they never sleep in or laze around. They have always something to do. So I am trying at the moment to adapt to that. I can make a fuss about building work next to my house on the weekend, starting at 7 am every day actually. But I won’t change anything. I only embarrass myself, like so many other times. So I am also getting up around 6 and go to bed early. Every day. And I like it.
Last year, mid December, after I picked up Carmi from the airport in PP, we stayed in a rather quirky hotel with a pool.
We’ve explored the big city but also tried to take it easy with the adaptation process and the jet-lag.
On the way up to Stung Treng, we’ve passed Kratie and stayed there for two nights.
The bus broke down a few miles before Kratie and we met another German woman called Katja from Berlin. We spontaneously invited her to spend Christmas with us because she was travelling on her own. She was very happy about it because it was also the 24th of December, the German Christmas.
So we continued to be a group of 3 for a couple of days and spend Christmas at Claire’s place with carols and mulled wine and other lovely VSO volunteers.
We played a game called ‘Kingdom’ and my group won a papaya and a kiss under the imaginative mistletoe.
On Christmas day, Katja, Carmi, Hanna (a friend of Claire) and me took a tuk-tuk and went on a boat to see the Irrawaddy dolphins.
It was magical.
On the way back we stopped at the pagoda at Phnom Sambok,
which is a meditation centre.
The wooded slopes were dotted with small huts, which act as meditation cells for monks, while at the top the wat is fragrant with frangipani blossom, as they said.
In the evening, we spend the English Christmas at Chicago-Jo with a lot of beer, roasted chicken and a secret Santa. Afterwards a Khmer guy pulled out his electric guitar and amplifier plus mic and I was forced to sing Jingle Bells.
The next day we travelled up to Stung Treng. Carmi met all my other volunteer friends and had the opportunity, to see a dentist for her broken tooth. Fortunately she got reassured about it that she could have treatment once she’s back in England. The dentist here was actually surprisingly professional.
The other thing I am very grateful to Carmi is, that she helped me, sorting out the library in the RTC.
So we spend a whole day on taking all books out of the shelf, sorting them and putting them back in. Now, the library can be used again by students and staff. Without Carmen, it would have taken a long time until it would have been sorted. So thank you again for your effort, blank nerves and patience with me!
Also we met the amazing Dolores, who is a VSO volunteer but based in China. She contacted Helen to spend some time here in Cambodia. Carmi and her went to see the silk-weaving -and Stung Treng Women’s Development centre: ‘Mekong-Blue’, while I was trying to catch up with the RTC. Lola is a volunteer with lots of experiences and also worked for MSF before. I had a very good chat to her and found out a lot more about the work at the front.
Then it was time to say goodbye again to Stung Treng, and the next day we took the mini van to go to Kampong Cham ( where we explored the Bamboo bridge, which is only there during the dry season),
and from there to Siem Riep. All in one day. It was hard.
But the happy pizza and the hungry fish who liked our feet and the lovely atmosphere in the evening of Siem Riep were worth it.
On New Years Eve, we moved into a 4 star hotel, to spend the last hours of the old day in elegance and to get drunk on champagne. The deal was, that it was all inclusive.
After hours of preparation and great anticipation for the big evening, we were seated at the wonderfully decorated outside space and the menu for drinks got passed to us. It was irritating at first to see prizes on it, and after clarifying with the waiter, the drinks were not included in the evening.
Maybe that’s why people started to disappear after a while, although 2 ladies from the Philippines gave a great entertaining show and I even won a wooden dragon at the lucky draw, which I later swapped with our neighbours against a silk pillow, which I then forgot in one of the hotels…
And we did a limbo competition
and played a game called: hip hip.
But I knew that other volunteers were also in Siem Riep and at that very moment on Pub Street.
So we decided to spend the countdown there too, with more people and excitement.
Carmi’s favourite TukTuk driver Sawat brought us and once we were there, it was just completely manic. It was packed with people, I felt slightly panicky. No sight of the others, just a big mob moving to ecstatic rhythms to the noisy bass of 2meter speakers. Shortly after we made our way into that crowd, it was midnight. Everybody got even more exited and beer got splashed around and we fell into arms of strangers to welcome the new year.
On New Years day, Carmi and me got up early to explore the country’s biggest tourist attraction. Angkor Wat, rated by some as one of the seven man-made wonders of the world, stands testament to an age-old advanced civilisation with building skills unequalled anywhere.
Angkor is Cambodia’s national treasure and its major source of foreign exchange. No other asset is as important to its beleaguered economy. Several million dollars, most of it financed from overseas donations, have been spent over the years in cleaning and restoration works. In 1992 Angkor was declared a UNESCO World heritage site. It’s temples and other structures are amazingly well-preserved.
Fortunately, Carmi had not only eyes for our tuk-tuk driver Sawat
, we’ve also seen Ankor Thom (the expansive walled city, to enter through a huge gateway decorated with enormous stone faces) where we’ve seen Bayon-Temple
; and Ta Prohm (the jungle temple, locale for the movie ‘Tomb Raider’).
Apparently, the labour force that build Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom must have numbered in the thousands. The standard of artisanship that produced the wall adornments and statuary of these massive structures was extraordinary. In scale and skill, these structures are comparable to the pyramids of Egypt and the Great Wall of China.
The next day, we had to go back to Phnom Penh again, because sadly, it was Carmi’s departure in the evening. After we said goodbye, an hour later or so, my mum and my sister arrived.
I would have been possible, that the excitement and anticipation might have lost some glance, because I just had a super lovely time. But it didn’t.
We cried when we fell into each other arms and it was just so unbelievable, to suddenly have them here, in Cambodia, my mum! I was so proud of her that she made it. I would have never thought it.
We’ve stayed for a few days in Phnom Penh, my sister was very keen on going out and exploring the city. She was so well prepared and knew a lot already.
After a few days, we went up to Quatschi (as my mum calls Kratie).
Unfortunately we hadn’t got a good experience there, my sister was sick all night and the toilet got blocked and the room was very uncosy. But still the next day my sis persuaded me and my mum to go and see the dolphins. So we went and it was a great experience for my mum. She loved it very much. Antje felt a bit better during the day, so we made our way to Stung Treng.
Here, we explored the area and also went one day over with the boat to Thalla Borivat. We had a look at the pagoda and seen the orphans, who an NGO, called NOPAHA looks after. The other special moment there was, that we were allowed to go into one of the meditation houses where elderly nuns were meditating. They were really quiet towards us, but then my mother looked at one and she said: I know her, and the nun then looked also friendlier. They met on the bus trip a day before. Then the ice was broken and my mum got her camera out, showing pictures of our family and the husbands. I don’t think, that the nuns would usually interfere with barangs.
Antji and Mami saw the ‘Mekong Blue’ while I was catching up with the RTC again. In the afternoon, we visited the Stung Treng Referral hospital. It was pretty shocking for them but I am glad they’ve seen it.
We’ve also met my lovely friends Sareth, Srey-mom and Parim, who persisted to cook some lunch for us. We also invited Helen and Carol and had a great time.
To break up the long trip to Siem Riep, I decided to stop on the way in Kampong Cham, where I had most of the language training. There I knew accommodation and Gideon, the tuk-tuk driver. He drove us in the afternoon to Wat Han Chay, a buddistic theme park on a hill, where there are fantastic river views from Chenla-era ruins and a modern temple.
Gideon also surprised us by a spontaneous wedding invitation. His uncle was going to marry that same evening. So we happily agreed and joined also a khmei wedding.
The next day we arrived at lunchtime in Siem Riep and checked in into lovely Smileys Guesthouse.
In the evening we were lucky to find the temple bar, where they did traditional apsara dancing while we had our dinner.
And then, the next day, we got up early to see Angkor Wat.
I thought for me, seeing it in fact for the third time in a period of only 2 months (Angkor race, with Carmi and then with Mum and sis), would be maybe not as fascinating as it was before.
But it was. And I explored new things about it and saw new places like Banteay Srei, 30 km northeast of Siem Riep.
This temple is built of fine-grained rose-pink sandstone,
it’s the most elaborately decorated of all Angkor’s monuments, its walls, lintels and exotic soaring pediments are all richly embellished with floral motifs.
And there is so much more out there to explore…
I suppose my favourite temple is Ta Prohm.
Enormous kapok trees grow from its terraces and walls and their massive roots are clinging to the walls, framing doorways and prising apart giant stones.
None of the 39 towers is intact and the partly collapsed, maze-like state of the temple makes it difficult to plan a route or work out its layout. You can climb over collapsed masonry and duck through caved-in galleries. It just fees very special being there, if nobody else would be there, you’d have the feeling of being an explorer and that you just did the greatest discovery of your life.
Fortunately, we had a bit more time in Siem Riep, so we had a few days to relax. In order to do that, we looked up Massage places (because Siem Riep is not only well known for Angkor, but also for pleasure). We found in Antji’s guidebook a place called: Massage from the blind, and so we booked ourselves in. We were massaged by blind people, and the difference was so noticeable, that we went there the next day again.
In the afternoon, we lazed around at a pool on a rooftop of a hotel, we found by accident.
On Friday, we went for an adventure. Together with my mate and volunteer friend Oli,
who happened to be in SR at the same time, we planned a trip to the flooded forest of Kampong Phluug.
We asked our tuk-tuk driver Hinda to bring us to the Tonle Sap lake and from there we wanted to take a boat.
We were still away from the lake, when moto drivers approached Hinda and told him that from a certain point on, he couldn’t drive us any further with the tuk-tuk. So we had to get out, pay an entry fee and each one of us got a moto dop to the riverside,
which was bumpy and a little scary, but my mum did so well. The boat was already waiting for us and so we made our way to the flooded forest.
We passed a floating village, which is of course in the dry season houses on giant stilts.
The Tonle Sap at its lowest, in May, just before the rains, the lake covers an area of around 2500 square kilometres.
Himalayan melt water flows down the Mekong just as the monsoon rains arrive, causing the level of the river to rise so quickly that at Phnom Penh the pressure is sufficient to reverse the flow of the Tonle Sap River, which would normally drain the lake.
As a result of this overflow, each year the lake inundates an area of over ten thousand square kilometres, making it the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia.
Although we have dry season at the moment, the Tonle Sap still looked giant.
In the evening we even went out for a bob after sipping cocktails at the FCC, where ‘ladies night’ was.
The next day we had to head back to PP, sadly, the end of our amazing time was near.
In PP, we hit the markets and I bargained what I could to the amusement to my sister and mum. I got really good in it actually.
On our last day, we explored the Royal Palace and the Silver Pagoda as well as the pool in the ‘Himawari’.
In the evening, we had to say goodbye to each other, which was very painful.
My dear friend Dr. Daniel very kindly donated money for the RTC. In the name of the director, the teachers and the students I want to say a big thank you to you.
Most likely we will either buy new fans, because all fans are broken in the student accommodation or we will use the money to buy a new toilet block.
It is really needed and with your kind donation, you make a very positve impact on peoples life here in Cambodia.So thank you a lot again.
written by  katja-horsch on February 2, 2010 from Phnom Penh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: VSO experience in Cambodia

my leaving do from work