Greece (1993) - shoshtrvls

Day 6 (Continued)

shoshtrvls — Thu, 06 May 1993 00:00:00 GMT

Back in Chania, I forced myself to eat again because I had to dine in the most atmospheric place -- a cafe (Taverna Ela) in a shall of a burned out Venetian building -- no roof, just crumbling walls and burnt cross-beams. Magnificent, and cheap too.

Unfortunately, I am now sitting in the Chania airport while masses of German tourists pour through, apparently catching some charter flight out of the country (the pounding of the immigration officer's stamp has given me an overwhelming headache).

Sometimes, life works out. The incredibly nice flight check in woman has placed m in "executive class" for the trip back to Athens. It was kind and is appreciated.

[2009 Edit -- Rereading this, I decided to look up that cafe, because it so sticks out in my mind. It now has a website and here's a bit about it's history:

The building you are in was built in 1650 by Jews, who were brought from Spain by the Venetians during their occupation of Crete in the middle ages.

The building was initially used for the manufacture of soap and this explains its Split levels, called tabakades.

The windows were set low in order to allow the soap to dry in the draft.

The thick wooden beams were placed close to each other to avoid movement during the stamping of the soap.

The timber used for its construction was sourced from chestnut trees and trees from the Black Sea area.

Later, when the building was taken over by the Greeks, it functioned in turn as a school, wine store and spirits distillery for ouzo, liqueurs and tsikoudia.

More recently it served as a cheese factory and confectioner’s kitchen.

From 1976 to 1988 the renovated building operated as a coffee shop, bar and restaurant on three floors.

In 1988 the building was completely destroyed by fire.

Since 1991, after comprehensive safety checks, the building has housed the Ela taverna with live music and fresh traditional dishes. ]

Day 6 (Continued)

shoshtrvls — Thu, 06 May 1993 00:00:00 GMT

I stayed at Stavros for about an hour -- the wind eventually driving me away. So I headed west, back through Chania and toward Rodhopos Penninsula. Near the end of the road I vied with mountain goats for my share of the road, eventually coming to a war monument of some kind with a beautiful view of the northwestern coast of Crete.

The last stop was the monastery of Gonia, similar to the others but smaller and with an imposing view of the ocean. However, the icons here were the best of all.

Day 6

shoshtrvls — Thu, 06 May 1993 00:00:00 GMT

Another fine day, too bad it will be my last. After checking out of my excellent pension, I splurged and rented an adorable little fiat for a drive around the western side of the island -- a monastery tour one might call it.

First I drove to the north -- Akrontiri Penninsula, and visited three monasteries. The first, Ayia Triadha, was everything a Greek monastery should be -- quiet, shaded, roses in bloom, black-frocked priests wandering about. The place was being refurbished but somehow it seemed appropriate -- the new frescos as one-dimensional as the old.

Further on was the second monastery, Gouvernetou, similar to the first in just about every way. Not as lush, however behind was a path leading down, first to a cave and some ruins, then further to the remains of an abandoned 16-17th century monastery -- Katholiko. Here I was all alone and savored the beauty of the rocky mountains, blue ocean, sky, etc. The climb back up made me work, and in the end I knew that I had gotten in the day's exercise.

Next I headed for Stavros, a tiny lagoon with a nice beach. On the way I stopped at Irene's tavern, highly recommended by the car rental agent, (who didn't hold my passport, credit card, or anything) and well worth it. Great garlic chicken.

Day 5

shoshtrvls — Wed, 05 May 1993 00:00:00 GMT

This is what vacations are all about, just usually not mine. After a rather quick breakfast, I spent the morning sitting on my balcony, reading deposition transcripts and thinking that this was the perfect way to prepare for trial.

Shortly after noon I took a walkabout to the archeological museum, the nearby beach, through various alleys, and the market, and continued my unsuccessful search for a boat, any boat, to take me out for an hour or two.

Eventually I returned to my balcony and completed my depo reading. A brief name and then back into the world of dinner and coffee. I am now implanted in a cafe by the outer harbour contemplating the world.

Day 4 (Continued)

shoshtrvls — Tue, 04 May 1993 00:00:00 GMT

Returning back to the center of Irakleion, I spent a few minutes in the Archeology Museum - a bit overwhelming with seemingly hundreds of identical bulls, vases, scarabs, etc., and the frescos upstairs were not particularly overwhelming as only small portions were real artifacts. Basically, these were all the originals from Knosos. The room of Roman sculpture looked to be the best, but it was closed for some unknown reason.

Day 4 (Continued)

shoshtrvls — Tue, 04 May 1993 00:00:00 GMT

The ruins at Knosos would have been disappointing had I any expectations. Even so, I found them seriously lacking. First, they were packed to the gills with tourists, many in large groups sufficient to block the views and passage of anyone not a part of them. Second, although interesting, they lacked the power of, for example, Macchu Pichu. Finally, it was impossible to get a guide and, as a result, I am certain that I missed some of the more important sites (the Queen's chamber being one). Since most of the tourists in Crete appear to be German or French rather than American or English as on Santorini, I couldn't even find a group to tag along with.

Day 4

shoshtrvls — Tue, 04 May 1993 00:00:00 GMT

Again I slept in, this time to 9 a.m. Anxious to get out of my not very comfortable hotel, I quickly showered and repacked and headed for Knosos.

Day 4 (Continued)

shoshtrvls — Tue, 04 May 1993 00:00:00 GMT

I had begun to dispair that I had wasted my vacation in a country of little interest to me. But as my bus left Irakleion and headed toward Chania, the picture brightened. Snow-capped mountains loomed above, sheep and goat herds stood against the hills and white beaches and blue water lay below.

Arrive in Chania was uneventful and at first I began to doubt the guidebook. However, slowly, I made my way through the new city, into the old city and finally to the small, enchanting, this-can't-possibly-be-real harbour. More Venetian than Greek (as I had been warned), this harbour could not have been built better by Disney or 20th Century Fox. Even better, I found myself the perfect room -- wooden floors, whitewashed walls, a deck and an incredibly view of the harbour. As I told the woman from Boston who appeared to own the place, I was sure I had gone to heaven.

And now I am sitting in a harbour-side cafe, eating shrimp and watching the sun go down. Vacation.

(Big mistake -- buying a pack of cigarettes. So seductive and addictive).

Day 3 (Continued)

shoshtrvls — Mon, 03 May 1993 00:00:00 GMT

The catamaran ride was uneventful and I slept through some of it. In Irakleion I found an acceptable but expensive ($25) hotel, wandered around a bit, had a not-very-good meal and eventually went to sleep.

Day 3 (Continued)

shoshtrvls — Mon, 03 May 1993 00:00:00 GMT

The next several hours were spent wandering around Thira's pricey chops and sitting in one of the bars overlooking the cliffs. Eventually I succumbed to the lure of the greatly overpriced jewelry and spent $900 on a gold bracelet -- more than I will probably spend on this entire trip!

The bus ride to the new port was reminiscent of the ride from Macchu Picchu to the train station -- tight switchbacks so marrow I was sure that the bus wold miss one and plummet down the mountain. Needless to say, it didn't.

Day 3

shoshtrvls — Mon, 03 May 1993 00:00:00 GMT

My body clearly knows that it is on vacation as I slept in again, this time almost to 10:00 a.m. Eventually I awoke and dressed, said my good-byes to Tammy and Fiona and headed into town.

After buying my ferry ticket to Iraklion, Crete and my plne ticket back to Athens, I proceeded to rent a scooter. An old scooter. A scooter with virtually no brakes. First I rode to one of the southern beaches -- Kamari -- only to discover that the beaches of Santorini pretty well stink -- black and pebbly with nothing romantic or isolated about it.

Turning around, I headed to Oia, the other main town in the island. The ride was a terrifying one -- the road hugged the mountainside and the cars barreled down and up, caring not at all if one lonely scooter got pushed off the side and into the mediterranean rocks far, far below. Anyway, but the time I got there, all I wanted to do was go home, which I promptly did.

Day 2

shoshtrvls — Sun, 02 May 1993 00:00:00 GMT

The long travel day eventually caught up with me and I slept until 10:00. However, beginning at about 7 or 8, I could hear church bells ringing and mules being driven past my window. The manager of the pension didn't have time to say "good morning" (everyone here speaks English) before asking if I was staying another night and demanding another 3000 drachmas. Tammy and Fiona were soon up and after showers and such we made our way toward town at about 11:00.

Breakfast was oj and greasy eggs while overlooking the Mediterranean Ocean. Then it was to travel agency city where we booked a 2 p.m. mini-cruise to the volcano and Hot Springs. We then walked a bit before returning to our rooms to change for the boat trip.

In making our way to the cable car to the old part, we discovered real Thira -- shops and bars pitched precariously on cliffs above the bay. The view was spectacular and I could see why the Houston couple had left our small pension to find a place with this view.

The boat trip was OK -- first a 1/2 hour hike up to the top of the volcano where Tammy, Fiona and I had a quick picnic lunch, then a cruise around the Caldera -- it was both hard work and relaxing, especially since we took a mule back up.

We returned for more window shopping, a change of clothes and dinner theoretically watching the sunset, but it was too hazy. In any event, the food and the company was good and it was an enjoyable day.

Day 1 (Continued)

shoshtrvls — Sat, 01 May 1993 00:00:00 GMT

Te plane to Santorini was full of Americans, at least thirty o them. Behind me sat 2 women -- 1 American and 1 British. At the time they seemed quite obnoxious.

Eventually, the plane landed and needless to say, we were all accosted by the usual group of touts showing off their penions. Eventually I ended up in a minivan with the two women and a couple from Houston. We were taken to a nice, clean little place very similar to the one I stayed in in Cuzco, Peru. After getting settled, the five of us went out for dinner and a walk.

We found a great little taverna packed with Greeks (thank g-d). I learned that the American woman, Tammy, worked for the Department of Defense studying ergonomics and the Brit, Fiona, was getting her masters in child psychology. They met when Tammy spent a semester studying in Britan. They are young; I am old. The couple from Houston went back to the pension after dinner. Tammy, Fiona and I had a drink and eventually returned to base by 1 a.m. Had to put the earplugs in due to a barking dog and Fiona and Tammy's laughter.

Day 1 (Continued)

shoshtrvls — Sat, 01 May 1993 00:00:00 GMT

Just when I had resolved to improve my attitude, I'm advised that my Paris-Athens ticket has been downgraded to economy. Rudely and with no apologies. Moreover, no one would even consider a refund or travel credit, and it took all the anger I could muster just to get proof of the downgrade -- a stamp on the back of my boarding pass. In fact, first they stamped the ticket and then tried to take it away from me. What idiots. And what a shitty way to begin my vacation. (It's USAir from now on).

On the other hand, they did extend and increase the travel credit that I couldn't use to buy the upgrade, and waived the fee for changing my return flight. I guess I'll wait and see what they do with this.

It's now about 7:40 p.m. -- I spent less than 4 hours in Athens and am now ready to move on -- at 9:25 p.m. -- to Santorini. I spent the afternoon wandering around the outside of the Acropolis (it was closed), the outside of the temple of Zeus (also closed) and inside the Plaka (very much open). The plaka, the old section of Athens, was nice for wandering, sitting in an outdoor cafe, etc.

When I couldn't figure our what else to do, I hopped in a cab and made my way to the domestic airport. And now I'm about ready to fall asleep.

Day 1

shoshtrvls — Sat, 01 May 1993 00:00:00 GMT

Arrived in Paris to discovery what an extraordinarily spoiled traveler I've become. Business class was decidedly less comfortable than I had anticipated, possibly owing in part to being in the smoking section. The amenities bag was less equipped and, horrors of horrors, I couldn't get a confirmed seat assignment for the Apris-Athens leg. As a result, I virtually demanded access to a lounge area away from the hoi palloi -- possibly a mistake given its rather stuffy and humid air. What has happened to the days when I was satisfied with a coach ticket anywhere, a clean room and a bathroom down the hall? This is no doubt the "growing old" I was warned about and to which I was sure I would never succumb.