Alex Kent

So, Antigua.

As I write this I have been here for almost a week and a half and the place is beginning to feel, if not like home, at least comfortingly familiar.

Your arrival in Antigua is impossible to overlook, as it is marked by an abrupt encounter with cobbled streets, which, combined with the unerring speed at which some people seem to drive, may well explain the clapped-out nature of most of the cars here. Upon arrival we went straight to my host family´s home, where a slightly frazzled Clemencia greeted me (all previously prepared phrases of polite small talk swiftly abandoned me) and asked me to wait a few minutes as my room was not quite ready. She speaks no English, but somehow I managed to catch on and sat in the kitchen, too spaced out by my journey to be nervous and therefore also to take much in, but I clearly remember Eric and Daniel, Clemencia´s two sons, sneaking curious glances at me round the door.

I had my first lesson the following afternoon, so spent my first morning drifting around town trying to get my bearings, and quickly appreciating why Antigua has a good reputation.

Surrounded by three impressive volcanos, the town retains its colonial architecture and a huge number of the streets are punctuated by the grand ruins of numerous churches. Guatemaltecans mingle with hoards of foreign language students, indigenous Mayans peddle their wares and the ubiquitous "tourist police" hang around chatting and keeping a quiet eye on things. I found my language school and registered, then returned to mi familia for lunch. We spend the first few days battling through meal times with the heavy use of a dictionary and a phrase book, while Clemencia explained to me what I was eating. Black beans (which taste very similar to kidney beans) make up a very important part of the diet - served with rice; whole in a thin soup; as a paste with the consitency of humous and in numerous other ways - and all very delicious. Maize is also ubiquitous, in all sorts of forms which I haven´t figured out the names of yet, but which include tortillas, and a delicious thin porridge (rather like Ready Brek) which I have been given for breakfast quite a few times. So far everything I have eaten has been enjoyable and interesting, and I have avoided any tummy problems!

My lessons are going well - some days are naturally better than others, but I have made sufficient progress to be able to follow the vast amount of Spanish that is directed at me - it´s a totally different ball game to try and follow someone else´s conversation! - and to hold a basic conversation, which makes meal times a lot easier! Classes take place in a pretty little courtyard full of beautiful flowers and with a fountain tinkling away in the centre. We are all taught one to one, and the lessons are totally flexible - today we spent almost the entire time in conversation about whatever cropped up, and at other times we spend most of the time covering grammer and doing practice exercises.

Having started classes on a Friday afternoon (nearly all lessons take place in the morning, and most new students arrive on Mondays), I hadn´t met anyone so spent Saturday drifting around seeing some sights, and sitting in the central park which is always bustling with students and locals alike.

A huge, noisy parade of school children passed, with what appeared to be a mini beauty pageant at the front, followed by various marching bands and dancers so the town was ringing for about an hour as they marched around the park. On Sunday I met an Erica, a travel writer, who speaks fluent Spanish and has recently completed a guide book on Nicaragua, so I spend an interesting day with her, exploring some of Antigua´s many eateries and cafes and chatting about life as a traveller!

Cerro de la Cruz (the hill of the cross) overlooks the town and the tourist police accompany groups who wish to walk up there every afternoon. (The group was introduced to try and deter muggings and other attacks in the more remote tourist hotspots, and since their introduction a few years ago safety in the town has apparently dramatically improved.) The view from the hill is beautiful, and we were blessed with a clear sunny afternoon.

Antigua has so far proved an ideal start to my trip.

Studying the language is obviously going to be a big help, but it´s also already allowing me to appreciate in more depth what I am seeing and doing. Being able to exchange even a few words with the locals is really rewarding, and they are always very pleased to chat. Being at school is also a great way to meet other people and find companions for exploring the area, making trips and planning my onward journey. The town is fun - foreign enough to feel like I´m away and to practice my Spanish and experience different cuisines and customs, but also developed and touristy enough to act as a safe and comfortable base until I find my feet a bit.

My camera has now given up so more photos will have to wait until next time, and I have some errands to run before I go home for supper, but I will be back soon with tales of my weekend jaunt to the beautiful black beaches of El Salvador.

written by

Alex Kent on August 16, 2007 from Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala

from the travel blog: On the Varieties of Nature

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