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Groovespook

53 Blog Entries
3 Trips
66 Photos

Trips:

Nuttter and Groovespook go Philippine island hopping
Australia Family Madness 2014
Nuttter's S.E. Asian Escapade

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http://blogabond.com/Groovespook



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Kracheh (Kratie) - DIrect from the Source.

Kracheh, Cambodia


Maybe it was the ride into town. I finally got to ride on the back of a motorbike. It was me sitting on the back of the bike with my large backpack strapped on and my hands holding on (tightly) to the back seat while the driver kept my small pack between his legs and drove me about 2km into Kracheh, Cambodia. Or, maybe it was the room I chose: four walls, a window, a bathroom with a Western toilet and ants that keep to the floor, not the bed. Or, maybe it was the food: lots of fish (grilled not fried and inexpensive) and dishes with tofu (had a tofu mushroom burger with FRENCH FRIES for lunch for $3.50). Or maybe it was just the excitement of arriving into a new country. Maybe it was all of the above and more. Whatever the reason, I arrived in Kracheh this afternoon and am swept up in the energy of it all.

There is a food market down the road that sells all sorts of fruits and vegetables and meats and what looks like body parts at times. There is an assault of smells and noise and grit. It's a scrappy place with buildings that look slightly charred and side roads swimming in litter. Kids "play" by burning styrofoam or plastic. Despite this, I've fallen for Cambodia. The people have been very friendly, quick with a smile. Kids run up and say hello. And it's definitely a busy place compared to the sleepy 4,000 islands.

Opposite the market (figuratively and literally) is the Mekong River that is showcased along a lovely promenade with decorative lamps.

Nuttter.

AT HOME:
Just pottering on. Very lazily today.


permalink written by  Groovespook on August 8, 2009 from Kracheh, Cambodia
from the travel blog: Nuttter's S.E. Asian Escapade
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4000 Islands - Direct from the Source.

Muang Khong, Laos

Tadlo

I was going to leave Tadlo after my first day/night there. Tadlo is a small, sleepy, relaxing spot known for its three waterfalls, two of which can be explored within half an hour. On my first day there that is just what I did. The third waterfall was an hour away by road and I just wasn't in the mood to be walking on a road for that long...didn't seem very scenic.

In the morning, I packed my bag and went to have breakfast. Started chatting to a couple in the place who went for an elephant ride at Tadlo Lodge (which offers lovely bungalows either right alongside one of the waterfalls or right ON TOP of it). And it will set you back a whopping $35 a night. It was much too romantic for a solo stay). At any rate, this couple really enjoyed the elephant ride so I looked into it. Then the owner of the restaurant asked if I was interested in doing a guided trek. I'm not a huge fan of guided treks here mainly because I'd much rather go off on my own and because they tend to bring you into villages where you stare at locals and they stare at you...it feels a bit too voyeuristic for my tastes.

But I was in the mood to interact with others and a French couple were going. So, I unpacked my bag, put on my hiking boots and went on the tour. The funny thing is at the restaurant, there were signs touting the tour "Take trek with English speaking guide, learn about Lao people and their working habits!"

Well, our guide was the restaurant owner's father, a lovely man with black dress slacks, a button down shirt and hat. Fifteen minutes into our trek and I asked him what the people of one village do for work and he just smiled and nodded. So much for English-speaking guide. Although, towards the end of the hike, he did turn to me and say: "You very nice person." So, it was all good!

I hiked with DeeDee and Julie, two very nice Parisians. We hiked to the base of the third waterfall and on our way back it poured. The three of us wore hiking boots and as usual, the locals walk around either barefoot or wearing flip flops. In all weather. It's quite humorous to see the falang (tourists) in their hiking gear, trying to gingerly navigate a muddy path when a local comes running through in flip-flops. Case in point, our guide helped each of us cross a stream. We walked across a line of stones while he held our hands and walked in the knee-deep river!!

The plan after the trek was to ride the elephant but they were booked. So, I went to visit the elephant (he just hangs out, unchained near the lodge). He let me feed him a banana. So I booked an 8 a.m. ride for the following day. The plan was to ride the elephant then leave Tadlo.

But that night I met the Portuguese duo, Isaac and Juoa. We had such a good time, they are the kind of people that light up any space. They are so full of life and positive energy. It was Joa's birthday the following day (the elephant ride day) and I decided to stick around for another night. I'm glad I did. We had fun. The guesthouse owner is a huge jazz lover and there was much music swapping. It was so nice to hear Portuguese being spoken and to hear Portuguese music.

The following day, myself and the two Portuguese (hereby known as the porkchops) headed for the 4,000 islands. We had a brief pitstop in Paske, where we had lunch at our favorite Indian restaurant (honestly, I came close to staying just for the food!) and I had to get more money out as the islands do not have any ATMs.

We then took a VERY crammed open-air truck-like vehicle to the 4,000 islands. It was a 3.5 hour journey in this vehicle that included about 35 adults, two infants, one toddler, bags and bags of food and, on top of the vehicle, a motorbike, more bags of stuff and chicken coops. I have photos that accurately capture the crammed nature of the ride. Because it's open-air, you get a lot of dust hitting your face, getting into your eyes, making looking out the back impossible (which is where we were seated). The porkchops were able to twist their bodies in a way that they could face the front but I didn't have that kind of room. Given my past experience in these vehicles, I was determined to get more space. So.....I stood on the back of the grate at the end of the truck with a couple of local men. It was soooo much better than sitting (although I did get hit with the sun). It was like riding a subway.....a long subway.

We arrived, found places to stay and got washed and had a lovely dinner. The next day, I hired a bike and took the island roads. The weather was perfect, a sunny day with a cool breeze. I felt like a kid whizzing past rice fields, guar and huts. The children are just the best...they scream out hello to you no matter how far away they are. And, if you prompt them, they will hold out their hands for a high-five as you ride past. Even the adults make an effort to say hello. It's quite endearing.

On my ride, I came past the porkchops, they were heading south, I was heading north. We chatted for a bit before going on our ways. I wanted to cycle to the northern point of the island (which is 24km in length and 8km wide). I did and then thought I was heading back to the starting line. But then this is me we are talking about. I am probably the first person in the history of the island to get LOST. I took a wrong turn and ended up intersecting the island and going north again. Imagine my horror when I saw the same structure I had just seen an hour ago! Too funny. So, at the end of the day, I rode for nearly six hours, got too much sun and saw a bit more of the island than I had planned.

The following day, myself and the boys headed further south -- a two-hour boat ride to the next island, Don Det. I woke up thinking I would take it easy but that never happens! After chilling out for a bit Joa and I took to bikes to explore the island we were staying on (Don Det) and the island you can get to via bridge, Don Khon. Of course, right after hiring our bikes it absolutely poured with rain. It stopped but it left the roads a very muddy mess. My sandals may look dorky (well, no maybe about it, they are dorky) but they stay on while walking through thick mud. Flip flops on the other hand...not so much. Poor Joa did his best to keep his flip flops on but halfway through our journey he was barefoot. We crossed to the other island and took in a lovely waterfall...a mass of gushing water everywhere. From there we cycled to a beach (well, kind of a beach). We were going to take a boat to see some dolphins but decided against it as the sun was setting and we had quite a journey back. We were absolutely covered in mud!

Back at the guesthouse, we got ourselves clean and then had a lovely dinner at the restaurant adjoining our guesthouse. The owner is a very lively woman. She is quite sharp and friendly....I was planning to move to another guesthouse but have decided to stay on because of the warm vibe from her and her family. The guesthouse we found is very basic. Just a wood bungalow, two hammocks, a bed and a mozzie net. No fan, no light inside the room. The electricity here runs from 7 until about 11. There are shared bathrooms (translation, you need to walk a bit to get to a squat toilet). In the evening, when I went to use the toilet there were two frogs hanging out! I have to tell myself I am camping, I am camping...it's really the only way to plough through.

It was quite nice hearing the river at night. It was a quiet night even though I didn't sleep well. But then, I haven't been sleeping well most nights. The beds are hard, the sheets are musty and sometimes bugs are included. But there you go.

This morning was a sad one. The boys headed off to Phomn Pehn. I am staying on for another day....I am telling myself it will be a day of rest...reading in the hammock, etc. But it's only 10 a.m. so that could all change!

I am sad to see the boys go, but I hope they will visit in NJ....you will all adore them!

Sorry no photos to attach, the connection is soooo slow and there are cobwebs on the computer. Seriously.

Nuttter.

AT HOME:
Totally not ready to do any sheetrocking tomorrow but 2 friends are coming over to hlep do it anyway. GULP!

Groovespook


permalink written by  Groovespook on August 7, 2009 from Muang Khong, Laos
from the travel blog: Nuttter's S.E. Asian Escapade
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4000 Islands.

Muang Khong, Laos

Si Phan Don, the 4000 islands. Of course, I cannot locate this on the map above so the closest neighbor is Muang Khong.

Nuttter is in a reqion of breath-taking beauty. The mighty Mekong has spread out into hundreds of tributaries that meander through swampy-grassland and rocky forests, at times restful and calm, at times violent and angry. The Mekong's murky turbulent water so bent on going south that it ignores everything in it's path. Probably.

RANDOM: The Mekong is the 10th largest river in the world. It is estimated to be 2703 Miles long and drains an area that is 307,000 Miles square.

Our adventurous princess is very close to Cambodia now and starting what can only be described as the next leg of this awesome journey, named so simply because it takes place in another country. Dispatches have Nuttter taking it easy for a couple of days and enjoying the sights and locales of the 4000 islands as we/she waves goodbye to Laos.

AT HOME:
Oh the utter joy of neat wiring. I suspect by tomorrow that ALL of the wiring - bar connecting a 60 amp breaker and the mammoth #6 cable to the mains - will be complete and awaiting an inspection. Then I think I am going to make a big push for a sheetrock party on Saturday.

Groovespook

permalink written by  Groovespook on August 5, 2009 from Muang Khong, Laos
from the travel blog: Nuttter's S.E. Asian Escapade
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Tadlo - from dispatches.

Ban Bakeng, Laos


No, this is NOT Nuttter ON AN ELEPHANT.

This is my fancy new Sub-Panel awaiting a few more cables and grounding rods and so forth. ho hum.


REAL NEWS - - -
I actually had a physical, real-time conversation with our heroine this morning.

Nuttter is in Tadlo which just simply does not appear on any map but from these dispatches I gleaned that it is "near" Ban Bakeng - north of Pakxe.

We are expecting a photo of Nuttter ON AN ELEPHANT (Walking is SOOOO Passé) and news has it that, apparently, the only thing that makes a westerner stand out more than just being a westerner in Tadlo is being a westerner and wandering about ON AN ELEPHANT.

Nuttter met a couple of Portuguese back-packers - they let those people go anywhere!! - and had a wizzy-jolly time chatting about the old country and probably struggling to speak Portuguese (Ouch! - I did go there!)

Nuttter is expected to head to the 4,000 Islands (wonder why they call it that? It's basically where the Mekong just spreads out over a huge area and creates a myriad of islands (probably 4000 of them)). Or she will make a bee-line for Cambodia.

AT HOME:
Complications with the electrical side of this project have hindered the pace a bit, I have to instal a sub-panel to deal with the 5 new circuits for the upstairs (Retiring the steel wound 60 yr old stuff for EVER) So virtually everything has GROUND to a halt (there is a pun there - based around having to instal an 8 foot long solid copper grounding rod).



permalink written by  Groovespook on August 3, 2009 from Ban Bakeng, Laos
from the travel blog: Nuttter's S.E. Asian Escapade
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Pakxe - Direct from the Source.

Pakxe, Laos

Arrived in Pakxe and found myself in a large room with a double bed, AC and tv. The bed looked quite comfy and I was looking forward to getting a good night's sleep after the brothel incident in Savannakhet. Alas, it wasn't meant to be. I was in the shower, in the middle of shaving my legs (don't worry this is G-rated) when I felt a bump at my ankle....I felt something that didn't feel right. Well I look down and there is this creepy crawly worm/centipede/slug thing...lots of hairy legs. It scuttled away to the drain area and I used the shower head to make sure it kept going. But after a couple of minutes, I spied it trying to come back into the shower. A word hear about the bathrooms....the showers tend to be a hand-held shower head and there is a drain in the floor for the water...basically you get the bathroom soaked (toilet seat, sink, etc.) and then it dries throughout the day. I was impressed I didn't scream when I saw the bug but the girl in me did come out. I sprayed the drainage opening with DEET (good ole DEET) and kept the bathroom door shut and the light on all night. I also kept the TV on with no sound as a nightlight. I was so paranoid the bug would be crawling all over me during the night that needless to say I didn't sleep well.

I knew I couldn't stay another night there (in addition to the bug at about 4 in the morning a strange juggle animal sound started to come from the bathroom, which had a window). Not sure if it was a gecko (do they make loud noises?) or what but it didn't help the situation.

So, the next morning I checked out and found myself a lovely room on the main street. It normally went for 100,000 kip (or so they told me) but they said I could have it for 90,000 but I asked if they would do it for 80,000 and they did! It's on the top floor with a TV, a fridge and AC and no bug sightings to date. I slept very well last night (although I'll admit I watched crap television, too).

Today I did some wandering around town. It poured all morning so it was a lazy day. A good day to catch up on writing, etc. I was going to go to the gym but was feeling pretty tired in the afternoon and happened upon a spa that looked lovely. So, I went in for a facial. For one hour I was pampered starting with a foot scrub, the facial, an arm, hand and shoulder massage and even a neck massage all for under $10. Ladies, Laos is heavenly!!!

Of course, it begs the question WHY have I waited this long to treat myself to a facial! I'm hoping the budget will allow more of these...it could become addictive. The facial consisted of putting a sesame oil on my face and massaging it in and ended with cucumbers on my eyes and a paste of red fruit that hardened on my face. I was concerned because I've broken out a bit and wasn't sure if the oils would hurt rather than help but my skin looks and feels fantastic. Thank you, Laos!

Nuttter

permalink written by  Groovespook on July 31, 2009 from Pakxe, Laos
from the travel blog: Nuttter's S.E. Asian Escapade
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PHOTOS - Direct from the Source.

Savannakhet, Laos

Just a quick note, got 5 more photos uploaded today. Including this one that proves Nuttter is really there and gives us lonesome friends something to remember her by for the next few weeks.

permalink written by  Groovespook on July 30, 2009 from Savannakhet, Laos
from the travel blog: Nuttter's S.E. Asian Escapade
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Savannakhet, Laos - Direct from the Source.

Savannakhet, Laos

So, following a couple of days in Laung Prabang, it was time to hit the road. I had originally intended to fly to Vietianne but the flights were booked so I hopped on the bus. What a bus ride it was! I was told it would take 6 hours to get there...but, of course, we are talking about laos time. For whatever reason, I continue to believe them when they tell me how long these rides will take! Must be all the smiling they do. At any rate, it was an arduous journey. The first six hours was NONSTOP twisting roads. And I mean nonstop! I was not expecting it at all (where were you with that tidbit of info Lonely Planet?!). Thankfully, I've been taking a motion sickness tablet that works like magic! It doesn't make me sleepy and does the trick. I can even eat! It truly has made all the difference. But, despite the tablet, the bus journey was still grueling.

I did meet some nice people on the bus. A nice guy from Oz (Gold Coast, of course) and a retired couple from Brisbane and a newlywed couple (she was Australian and he was Japanese). The guy got off the bus a stop before me and the other two couples landed in Vietianne with me. It took not six hours, but nine. Granted, we did have to have a tire changed, but that only accounted for 30 minutes.

why so long then you ask? well, that brings me to the cultural lesson of the day. Laos transportation.
Here's how it works. As I mentioned before, the drivers operate on Laos time. This means you never leave on time. And you never arrive on time. There are some VIP buses out there for some routes (this means it's a direct bus to the location you want) but sometimes you have no choice but to go with the public bus.

To give you an example of how the public bus operates, I will use today. I left Savannakhet this morning at 10:30ish (see above regarding the ish comment). I'm fairly certain that the journey to Paske is probably only 3 hours. How long did it take? Five hours.

It started out well. The driver actually left only a couple of minutes late. Typically there is the driver and a co-pilot of sorts who sits at the front of the bus. He helps load baggage and handles the money/tickets. So off we go! Kind of... We then spent the next 45 minutes driving about 5 mph going through town as the bus driver beeped the horn to let the whole world know the Paske bus was coming through! We picked up more people as he went. Finally, after 45 minutes or so, we picked up speed and were going about 40 mph!

Then it's a typical public bus because everybody's gotta eat!!! The bus driver beeps his horn as we get close to a food stall stand and then he pulls over. Some people get off the bus to pee and others stay on. There's never anything said to the passengers so you have no idea if this is a long stop, a short stop or what. I caught on it was a long stop when I saw the driver and his two co-pilots sitting around a table eating! After all, it was noon and we'd already been on the road a whole whopping hour and a half!!!!

For those of us on the bus, we were treated to a group of women coming on board to sell their foods..... kebabs of various grilled meats. Each woman had a bunch of kebabs in each hand. finally, we get back on the road. We pick up more people on the way including a man with some 35 bags of grain (the size of a regular cement bag)!!! So, of course, that took quite a while as the co-pilots considered whether or not they could fit it all on, etc. We get going and then, before you know it, we pull over. A woman had requested this stop. I thought she was getting off the bus (that would be silly!) She wanted to buy some grilled meats at the food stall!!!!

Then, an hour later, it's another stop. And so on and so on. It's actually quite painful (can you tell). To add to the whole experience, there is ALWAYS cheesy Laos/Thai love pop songs playing. Loudly. Everyone seems to love it and it's all about the same thing (girl likes boy, he doesn't know she exists or he is cheating on her or whatever). But this trip was extra special as we had a TV on board so not only did we listen to the music but we got to see the videos (and the lyrics in both Thai and Lao which appeared karoke style, I kid you not). The music videos were too funny! They would depict the lovelorn male/female...adults but they acted like high school kids! Public displays of affection are not accepted here so the videos would never show couples kissing, instead, they would just look at each other, bat their eyelashes and look away. Or, a common theme, they would gaze at a photo of them as a couple on their cell phones and then slowly, dramatically, bring the phone to their lips and kiss it! Or, they would draw hearts in the air while lying on their hello kitty bedsheets (I'm not kidding) or they would call their girlfriend on their cell phone while in a trench in some war (hopefully you are laughing as hard as I did). Honestly, I felt like the main character from a Clockwork Orange by the time we arrived.

A special shout-out to Bloc Party, Home Video, Placebo and New Order....I could not have survived without you!
Needless to say, the trip was exhausting and I couldn't wait to get off the bus! I am now in Paske, southern Laos. From Vietianne, I travelled to Savannkhet where i spent the day and night. I was planning to stay another day but woke up to rain and decided it was time to go (another deciding factor was my guesthouse....very clean, cosy....the condom packet in the room should have been a giveaway...didn't realize people would actually be using them that night..but sure enough at 12:30, 1:30 and through the night I might as well have been sleeping in a brothel--I'll leave the rest to your imagination). It was time to go!

So that is that. Will plan to email again tomorrow. Miss you all and drop me an email and let me know what's cookin'!

Nuttter


permalink written by  Groovespook on July 29, 2009 from Savannakhet, Laos
from the travel blog: Nuttter's S.E. Asian Escapade
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Vientianne - Not for long.

Vientiane, Laos

Dispatches from Laos have our hero making a bee-line out of Vientianne to Savannakhet. Vientianne is a little too touristy and - to date - the most expensive place so far. THe bus ride from Vientianne to Savannakhet was billed as 6 hours. reality: 9. OUCH!

AT HOME.
(snoring sounds) "wha... wha? oh, (picks up hammer and bangs on wall) working hard!" (falls back asleep). Nearly have 1 room totally prepped for sheetrock and lights and outlets.

permalink written by  Groovespook on July 28, 2009 from Vientiane, Laos
from the travel blog: Nuttter's S.E. Asian Escapade
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Sand and Cheese Sandwich anyone?

Savannakhet, Laos

So after a 9 hour bus trip through winding dirt roads in towering mountainous rainforests virtually anyone would be a little ill. Nuttter is resting up and loving Savannakhet. Quiet, cosy litle town. Highlights are the English signs through out the town.

Sand and Cheese Sandwich.

High Peeds Internet.

Enjoy your test! (footer on a menu)

permalink written by  Groovespook on July 28, 2009 from Savannakhet, Laos
from the travel blog: Nuttter's S.E. Asian Escapade
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Laos - Direct from the Source.

Luang Prabang, Laos

YAY! PICTURES!

Laos is hot. How hot? Three showers a day hot. Constant sweat hot. Blazing, punishing sun hot. Want to feel like you are here? Preheat the oven to 400. When it reaches that temp, open the door and lean forward. That blast of thick heat is what it's like here. Every day. All day. Frankly I'm surprised I haven't melted yet!

Tourists here do their best to beat the heat. Walking around under umbrellas, drinking lots of water or having fruit shakes. Wearing shorts, t-shirts. Meanwhile, Lao people walk around in skinny, tight denim or cordoury pants and long-sleeved tops. Show-offs.

Nuttter.

AT HOME:
Just got back from a great weekend camping in Wharton State Forest, checked email and YES! One from Nuttter and so have posted another blog entry and uploaded some great photos she took BEFORE cleaning up the camping mess and having a bath that may be the most wonderful bath ever.

Groovespook

permalink written by  Groovespook on July 26, 2009 from Luang Prabang, Laos
from the travel blog: Nuttter's S.E. Asian Escapade
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