Tadlo

I was going to leave Tadlo after my first day/night there. Tadlo is a small, sleepy, relaxing spot known for its three waterfalls, two of which can be explored within half an hour. On my first day there that is just what I did. The third waterfall was an hour away by road and I just wasn't in the mood to be walking on a road for that long...didn't seem very scenic.

In the morning, I packed my bag and went to have breakfast. Started chatting to a couple in the place who went for an elephant ride at Tadlo Lodge (which offers lovely bungalows either right alongside one of the waterfalls or right ON TOP of it). And it will set you back a whopping $35 a night. It was much too romantic for a solo stay). At any rate, this couple really enjoyed the elephant ride so I looked into it. Then the owner of the restaurant asked if I was interested in doing a guided trek. I'm not a huge fan of guided treks here mainly because I'd much rather go off on my own and because they tend to bring you into villages where you stare at locals and they stare at you...it feels a bit too voyeuristic for my tastes.

But I was in the mood to interact with others and a French couple were going. So, I unpacked my bag, put on my hiking boots and went on the tour. The funny thing is at the restaurant, there were signs touting the tour "Take trek with English speaking guide, learn about Lao people and their working habits!"

Well, our guide was the restaurant owner's father, a lovely man with black dress slacks, a button down shirt and hat. Fifteen minutes into our trek and I asked him what the people of one village do for work and he just smiled and nodded. So much for English-speaking guide. Although, towards the end of the hike, he did turn to me and say: "You very nice person." So, it was all good!

I hiked with DeeDee and Julie, two very nice Parisians. We hiked to the base of the third waterfall and on our way back it poured. The three of us wore hiking boots and as usual, the locals walk around either barefoot or wearing flip flops. In all weather. It's quite humorous to see the falang (tourists) in their hiking gear, trying to gingerly navigate a muddy path when a local comes running through in flip-flops. Case in point, our guide helped each of us cross a stream. We walked across a line of stones while he held our hands and walked in the knee-deep river!!

The plan after the trek was to ride the elephant but they were booked. So, I went to visit the elephant (he just hangs out, unchained near the lodge). He let me feed him a banana. So I booked an 8 a.m. ride for the following day. The plan was to ride the elephant then leave Tadlo.

But that night I met the Portuguese duo, Isaac and Juoa. We had such a good time, they are the kind of people that light up any space. They are so full of life and positive energy. It was Joa's birthday the following day (the elephant ride day) and I decided to stick around for another night. I'm glad I did. We had fun. The guesthouse owner is a huge jazz lover and there was much music swapping. It was so nice to hear Portuguese being spoken and to hear Portuguese music.

The following day, myself and the two Portuguese (hereby known as the porkchops) headed for the 4,000 islands. We had a brief pitstop in Paske, where we had lunch at our favorite Indian restaurant (honestly, I came close to staying just for the food!) and I had to get more money out as the islands do not have any ATMs.

We then took a VERY crammed open-air truck-like vehicle to the 4,000 islands. It was a 3.5 hour journey in this vehicle that included about 35 adults, two infants, one toddler, bags and bags of food and, on top of the vehicle, a motorbike, more bags of stuff and chicken coops. I have photos that accurately capture the crammed nature of the ride. Because it's open-air, you get a lot of dust hitting your face, getting into your eyes, making looking out the back impossible (which is where we were seated). The porkchops were able to twist their bodies in a way that they could face the front but I didn't have that kind of room. Given my past experience in these vehicles, I was determined to get more space. So.....I stood on the back of the grate at the end of the truck with a couple of local men. It was soooo much better than sitting (although I did get hit with the sun). It was like riding a subway.....a long subway.

We arrived, found places to stay and got washed and had a lovely dinner. The next day, I hired a bike and took the island roads. The weather was perfect, a sunny day with a cool breeze. I felt like a kid whizzing past rice fields, guar and huts. The children are just the best...they scream out hello to you no matter how far away they are. And, if you prompt them, they will hold out their hands for a high-five as you ride past. Even the adults make an effort to say hello. It's quite endearing.

On my ride, I came past the porkchops, they were heading south, I was heading north. We chatted for a bit before going on our ways. I wanted to cycle to the northern point of the island (which is 24km in length and 8km wide). I did and then thought I was heading back to the starting line. But then this is me we are talking about. I am probably the first person in the history of the island to get LOST. I took a wrong turn and ended up intersecting the island and going north again. Imagine my horror when I saw the same structure I had just seen an hour ago! Too funny. So, at the end of the day, I rode for nearly six hours, got too much sun and saw a bit more of the island than I had planned.

The following day, myself and the boys headed further south -- a two-hour boat ride to the next island, Don Det. I woke up thinking I would take it easy but that never happens! After chilling out for a bit Joa and I took to bikes to explore the island we were staying on (Don Det) and the island you can get to via bridge, Don Khon. Of course, right after hiring our bikes it absolutely poured with rain. It stopped but it left the roads a very muddy mess. My sandals may look dorky (well, no maybe about it, they are dorky) but they stay on while walking through thick mud. Flip flops on the other hand...not so much. Poor Joa did his best to keep his flip flops on but halfway through our journey he was barefoot. We crossed to the other island and took in a lovely waterfall...a mass of gushing water everywhere. From there we cycled to a beach (well, kind of a beach). We were going to take a boat to see some dolphins but decided against it as the sun was setting and we had quite a journey back. We were absolutely covered in mud!

Back at the guesthouse, we got ourselves clean and then had a lovely dinner at the restaurant adjoining our guesthouse. The owner is a very lively woman. She is quite sharp and friendly....I was planning to move to another guesthouse but have decided to stay on because of the warm vibe from her and her family. The guesthouse we found is very basic. Just a wood bungalow, two hammocks, a bed and a mozzie net. No fan, no light inside the room. The electricity here runs from 7 until about 11. There are shared bathrooms (translation, you need to walk a bit to get to a squat toilet). In the evening, when I went to use the toilet there were two frogs hanging out! I have to tell myself I am camping, I am camping...it's really the only way to plough through.

It was quite nice hearing the river at night. It was a quiet night even though I didn't sleep well. But then, I haven't been sleeping well most nights. The beds are hard, the sheets are musty and sometimes bugs are included. But there you go.

This morning was a sad one. The boys headed off to Phomn Pehn. I am staying on for another day....I am telling myself it will be a day of rest...reading in the hammock, etc. But it's only 10 a.m. so that could all change!

I am sad to see the boys go, but I hope they will visit in NJ....you will all adore them!

Sorry no photos to attach, the connection is soooo slow and there are cobwebs on the computer. Seriously.

Nuttter.

AT HOME:
Totally not ready to do any sheetrocking tomorrow but 2 friends are coming over to hlep do it anyway. GULP!

Groovespook

written by  Groovespook on August 7, 2009 from Muang Khong, Laos
from the travel blog: Nuttter's S.E. Asian Escapade
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Great post angel! thanks

written by  Porl on August 7, 2009

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I am soooooo envious... beautifully detailed journal entry...I am "there" with you Maria.

written by  Teresa on August 8, 2009

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I didn't know elephants eat bananas.
Cheers! Jenna

written by  jenna mcknight on August 12, 2009

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