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exumenius


170 Blog Entries
2 Trips
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Trips:

Down Under trip Preparation
Kiwis and Kangaroos

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Back to Brissy - Night 146

Brisbane, Australia


Another overnight, red-eye flight, this time from Perth to Sydney and on to Brisbane. I wised up and dressed properly for the ride. Virgin Blue night flights are horribly cold, almost too cold to sleep. Arriving in Brisbane at 9am local time, I experienced a strange sense of nostalgia. Hard to imagine that just 145 days ago I was flying into this same airport with all the hopes, expectations and unknowns of the trip in front of me. This time, I rolled in a veteran traveler, privy to the process, tired from lack of sleep, and excited to be finishing up the journey.

The weather in Brissy was mild, mid 80s with an acceptable level of humidity. The City Backpackers was packed as usual. After checking in, I took a short, fulfilling nap and then journeyed into the city to do some much needed shopping for Fiji. I find my tropical wardrobe a bit wanting, or at least it was but is no more (thanks to some deals at Target). My roommates were three guys from the UK, all solo travelers, and all just beginning their trips. I thoroughly enjoyed giving them my tips on New Zealand and the rest of Australia. Again I am convinced that half (or probably more) the fun of traveling is talking about it later.

I struggled to stay awake tonight, the last few nights of poor sleep obviously taking its toll. I’m starting to rethink the benefits of red-eye flights. That and I hope that I heal up before my Fiji adventure.

What I Learned Today: There was a certain feeling of familiarity as I came back in Brisbane. A level of comfort associated with knowing the city, the trains, and the hostel. Prior to this trip I would have said that this comfort is the root of our problems, the reason that we all fall into boredom and bad habits. But now I know better. Feelings of familiarity and comfort should be enjoyed and welcome; however, they should not be depended on. Nor should they be our singular goal in life. Every now and then (more for some of us and less for others) we need to mix in a bit of discomfort, some unknown, perhaps a trace of novelty and uncertainty in order to grow and change.



permalink written by  exumenius on March 4, 2008 from Brisbane, Australia
from the travel blog: Kiwis and Kangaroos
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Back to Perth - Night 145

Perth, Australia


It pained me a bit to leave Fremantle today. It is my favorite city so far in all of Australia, and probably New Zealand as well. Freo simply has the right feel to it, for me at least. I did a bit of shopping in the morning, walked out to the lighthouse and back to Bather’s beach once again. The train ride back to Sue’s house was more interesting than one would expect. The Midland train was packed with hard core rock fans headed out to a concert, this being Australia’s Labor Day. Honestly, I think I was the only person on the train without a visible tattoo and a band t-shirt on. That is about the extent of my day.

The afternoon was all life maintenance; booking my Fiji adventures, doing laundry, catching up on this journal and repacking for my late night flight to Brisbane.
I want to take this opportunity to extend my dearest thanks to Sue, Den and family for their overwhelming hospitality over the past week. I felt welcomed into their home and I am very grateful for it. If/when they ever come to the States I hope that my family can show them the same sort of hospitality.

What I Learned Today: That the George Carlin theory of personal health (more germs = better immune system = better health) has actually been vindicated by medical research.
Though it doesn’t appear to have helped me at the moment.


permalink written by  exumenius on March 3, 2008 from Perth, Australia
from the travel blog: Kiwis and Kangaroos
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Rottnest Island - Night 144

Fremantle, Australia


(I managed to delete my photos from today so you’ll have to settle for some images stolen from the internet)

Today I tackle Rottnest Island. The first ferry leaves Fremantle at 7:30am, and due to the overpromptness bred into me by my early bird family I arrived at the C Shed terminal well before check-in opened. The ride out to Rottnest, just under 30 minutes in length, was a rough one as the winds whipped up a serious chop. After arriving, I claimed my rental bike, grabbed a map and set off to explore. A bit of history first. Back in the late 1800s and early 1900s Rottnest was used as prison colony, mostly holding aboriginals and the worst of the worst white criminals. Its strategic location caused it to be transformed into a military base during WWII. Since that time, the island has blossomed into a tourist destination for both daytrippers and weekenders alike, as the old barracks and officers houses have been turned into accommodations. A number of townhomes have been built in Geordes Bay, as well. The main allure of the island, next to its nearly infinite number of small coves and beaches, is the almost entire lack of cars, a few maintenance vehicle and the police aside. As such, it is a haven for bikers who can take advantage of the many miles of roads built during the military days.

I was one such biker today. After landing

at 8am I struck out and circumnavigated the island in a counterclockwise manner, stopping for numerous photo opportunities and at the various historical sites along the way. The roads are in very good condition and the terrain can only be described as undulating, so it isn’t too hard to make good progress. By lunch I was back at the main village where I enjoyed a foot long Subway sandwich. Strange that they still call it a foot-long here in the land of metric. I would think you should be able to choose between a 14cm and a 28cm sub. Strangely, as I finished eating lunch two very attractive young girls approached me with a proposition; that they give me money and I buy them alcohol. I always told myself that I would do such a thing for younger people as many kindred souls did the same for me years back; however, something about it just didn’t seem right. It wasn’t even noon, the drinking age is 18 so surely they could find some young guys to do, and they were just a little bit too good looking. I am sure it wasn’t a police type sting, but I declined anyways. What an old codger I’ve become.

After lunch I biked up the lone hill on the island to the lighthouse. From there it was all downhill to one of the secluded coves for a nap and a swim in the ocean. My ferry departed at 4:30 and the ride back was much choppier than the ride there. The swells were approaching two meters and the workers were scurring about handing out vomit bags to needy passengers. I calmly watched a cricket game on the television, enjoying the rough seas like a veteran sailor. I am convinced that in a previous life I was a first mate on a ship with the likes of Vasco de Gama or Leif Erikson.

Again I went down to the beach for sunset. This time it was a cloudless sky and I added one of the essentials that I had forgotten from last night; the bottle of wine. Apparently beautiful girls are a bit harder and most expensive to come by.

What I Learned Today: Why haven’t I read more Timothy Leary?

permalink written by  exumenius on March 2, 2008 from Fremantle, Australia
from the travel blog: Kiwis and Kangaroos
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On to Fremantle - Night 143

Fremantle, Australia


(I managed to delete my photos from today so you’ll have to settle for some images stolen from the internet)

On my morning walk I came across a youth softball tournament, a friendly reminder that baseball season is right around the corner. It was so very nice to people swinging proper baseball/softball bats and not those flattened logs that pass for cricket sticks. After reveling in the supremacy of American sports for a bit, I returned to the 12:01 Backpackers and gathered up my things for the train ride to the beach.

I caught the 10:30 to Fremantle, a half an hour ride. Fremantle is Perth’s port, like a Long Beach to Los Angeles or a Galveston to Houston. Some would say that Fremantle is just another suburb, but I disagree. It is

a stand alone city in its own right, complete with a charming downtown, a thriving market, a college, and an interesting history. I checked into the Freo (as Fremantle is kindly referred to) YHA, which is easily one of the best hostels I’ve been to on my entire trip. Two kitchens, a massive common area and outdoor courtyard, a gym, and even a movie screen and projector. The only thing missing was wireless internet. If you are ever in Freo I highly recommend this place.

I killed much of the afternoon wandering the markets and numerous good used book stores. It just dawned on me that, as my trip is nearly over, I might need to start picking up a few souvenirs for the family. Later on I hit South Beach up for a quick dip in the ocean. Returning to town at 5:05, I soon found out that all the grocery stores in town close at 5 on Saturdays so I was forced to have a below-average kebab at one of the stands in town. It was Bather’s Beach for a superb sunset (the pictures of which I’ve lost). The clouds through up a panorama of red and orange, the wind blew, the waves crashed....the only things missing were a beautiful girl and a bottle of wine.

My cold appears to be getting worse before it gets better.

What I Learned Today: Don’t leave your calling card in a payphone booth, it won’t be there when you get back.


permalink written by  exumenius on March 1, 2008 from Fremantle, Australia
from the travel blog: Kiwis and Kangaroos
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City Tour - Night 142

Perth, Australia


(I managed to delete my photos from today so you’ll have to settle for some images stolen from the internet)

Five straight days of at or above 100 degrees I come down with a cold (dehydration is likely the culprit)….Anyways, being that today is the strangest of all days and that it is the end of another month I will take the liberty of waxing poetically a bit about the overall state of my existence. I am tired. Not physically or mentally, but socially. If this sounds strange, I understand as I didn’t know such a condition existed a mere five months ago. What do I mean when I say I am socially tired? Social exhaustion can best be described as talking to different people about the same thing for weeks on end. Where have you been? How long do you have left? What was your favorite place? Where are you going next?...It is widely accepted that maintaining relationships takes energy, I’ve learned that starting new ones usually takes even more (in those instances where it doesn’t lies true bliss). I say all this because I’m coming to realize that I’ve all but stopped trying to openly engage people. This is partly due to the fact that my trip is quickly coming to an end but also because of the aforementioned social exhaustion. At the moment I desire to talk to the same people about different things and not the other way around. How about a rousing argument with friends over the merits of ERA vs WHIP, or Badgers Football, or I-5 traffic, or American Politics or who from high school is getting married, or how drunk we were that one night in Fremont/Tucson/Stevens Point/Vegas/Duncan’s Barn. This is no knock on the trip as whole, it has been amazing, but rather just an indication that it is ending exactly when it should. I’ll stop with the self-reflection right here and save the rest for the Epilogue.

So what did I do today? Real life called and I

spent the morning taking care of finishing off my application and funding request emails for graduate school. Prospects look bleak, but I’m giving it an honest effort. In the afternoon Sue took me on a little tour of Perth. We first stopped at the Buddhist Monastery down the road from their house. The beautiful symmetry, golden statues, and deep atavistic chanting immediately sets one’s mind at ease. After a quick perusal of the adjacent art gallery, we headed across town to King’s Park. A sprawling conglomeration of native bush, mowed lawns and various memorials and obelisks, King’s Park sits atop an escarpment just SW of downtown and offers amazing views of the skyline and the Swan River valley.

Being a bit isolated out in Bayswater, I chose to stay in a hostel downtown for the evening. A decent enough place, the 12:01 Backpackers has very friendly staff and great air-conditioning. I spent the evening having a few beers on the back porch with some other backpackers and then retired early.

What I Learned Today: I have very calm eyes…at least according to the woman at the monastery.


permalink written by  exumenius on February 29, 2008 from Perth, Australia
from the travel blog: Kiwis and Kangaroos
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Cottesloe Beach - Night 141

Perth, Australia


My morning was wasted trying to find hostels and set up a trip to Rottnest Island this coming weekend. Due to the three day weekend almost every place I checked was booked solid, including the solo hostel on Rottnest. In the end, I’ll be staying in Fremantle Saturday and Sunday nights and just doing a day trip to Rottnest on Sunday. This is the first time in my trip that I wished I had done a bit more planning ahead.

It was another scorcher today, so Sue and I drove out to Cottesloe Beach for a quick dip in the Indian Ocean. Enroute, she was pulled over for speeding. Not that this is all that noteworthy, but the manner in which the police apprehend speeders is quite strange. Policeman on foot stand in the shadows of road signs, large trees, etc with their radar guns. Once they catch a speeder coming upon them, they run out in to the middle of the road and direct the offender to the side using nothing more than hand signals, even on roads where drivers are doing 45 to 55 mph. It seems to me a dangerous way to enforce speed limits…but I suppose it keeps them from getting fat like American cops. Which, now that I think of it, most of the cops I’ve seen here in Australia are actually fit and appear as if they could honestly run down a man in wheelchair or an old woman with a walker without stopping for a break.

Cottesloe Beach was absolutely packed, on account of the teacher’s strike all the schoolies decided to hit the sand. Sue only stayed for a bit and then headed back home for some music appointments. I stuck it out all day (the Annas bailed on account of hangovers and high temperatures), hiding in the shade for most of the afternoon. Though the Indian Ocean is the warmest of the big three, the water was refreshingly cold and made for joyous swimming.

At night I ventured up to the Anna’s house in North Perth to chill out and have some dinner. I suddenly realized that I am going to be in Fiji in less than a week and need to get something planned.

What I Learned Today: I couldn’t possibly fathom working with teenagers on a day to day basis.


permalink written by  exumenius on February 28, 2008 from Perth, Australia
from the travel blog: Kiwis and Kangaroos
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Perthin' It - Night 140

Perth, Australia


By virtue of having my own room, I managed to sleep past 6 am. What a delight. I had a slow morning just hanging around the house doing some reading. At 9am I walked down to the Meltham train station and hopped a train into town. TransPerth, the local transit authority, claims to have the cleanest trains in the world and from my first few rides on them I can’t help but agree. The modern train cars are spotless and the network appears to service the entire region very well. It would be so convenient to have such a set up in Seattle, a region much larger than that of Perth.

After landing at Wellington Station, the central hub, I just sort of wandered around downtown for awhile, getting lost in the numerous underground shopping arcades and pedestrian malls. Post lunch I struck out

on an ambitious walking tour down to the south bank of the Swan River. About halfway through it I wore out and collapsed under a shade tree for a nice hour long nap. The temperature was held down in the morning by a bit of clouds, but the sky cleared in the afternoon and again the thermometer toyed with triple digits. Through the course of my six mile walk, I also managed to wear a hole right through the bottom of my sandals. This pair didn’t even make it five months, but I guess that’s what I get for buying the cheap brand from Target.

In the evening Sue and family had a little barbecue in my honor. A typical Australian feast, it was headlined by lamb, with sausages and salads as opening acts.

What I Learned Today: Never live within walking distance of your mother-in-law. ..and preferably not even in the same city.



permalink written by  exumenius on February 27, 2008 from Perth, Australia
from the travel blog: Kiwis and Kangaroos
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Arrival in Perth - Night 139

Perth, Australia


I landed in Melbourne at 5am local time and had exactly 40 minutes before my next flight to Perth left. As one would expect, I had to change Terminals which meant going through a security checkpoint again and walking about a mile but I made it just in time to board. I began to wonder how my luggage was going to make this similar journey. Part of me was hoping that they would lose my sleeping bag, that dirty, rarely used ‘necessity’ that I brought along for the volunteer portion of my trip. I would send it home but it is not worth the postage it would cost, yet I can’t bring myself to just conveniently leave it somewhere. I figured that best plan was to not label it and hope the airline would lose it. Collecting my bags in Perth at 8am only my large backpack came through so, for a minute, I imagined my devious plan had worked. I was called to the Virgin Blue office where a nice lady explained to me that it would be on the next flight from Melbourne and that they would deliver it to my address. Damn.

After this brief disappointment, I called up Sue, the ex-foreign exchange student of my mother’s family 30 years ago who I was

staying with, for a ride. She graciously picked me up and invited me into her home as if I was a long lost son. I was even given my own room, with a dresser and fan. Quite an upgrade from the smelly, rotting eight bed dorm I stayed at in Darwin. I took a much needed nap and then enjoyed lunch with Sue. We went over her scrapbooks from her time at my grandparent’s place as well as some of the old Bonduel High School yearbooks. Just crazy seeing many of my friend’s parents back in their formative years.

I spent the better part of the afternoon reading on the pack porch, in the shade of course as the temperatures approached the upper nineties. In the evening the rest of the family came home, Simon from his second day at Curtin University, Jemma from high school, and Den from a day at the golf course. Along with the neighbor boy, Max, we had a nice family dinner on the porch discussing the differences between American Football (gridiron as they call it) and Australian Rules Football (Footy). Simon, Max and I went to shoot some pool and have a few drinks at the neighborhood bar.

What I Learned Today: You know you are from a small town when you are looking at a high school yearbook from twenty years before you graduated and all the last names are the same as those of the kids in your class.


permalink written by  exumenius on February 26, 2008 from Perth, Australia
from the travel blog: Kiwis and Kangaroos
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Experiencing the Wet - Night 138

Darwin, Australia


Again the wet maintained its classic rhythm of brief, violent showers interspersed with periods of relative calm. It was during one of these respites that I managed to sneak away from the hostel and take a stroll along the water. Advertised as a beautiful harbor walk, the area and the trail is tragically underdeveloped and lacks anything at all to suggest that it should be a tourist destination. In all fairness to the City of Darwin, I shouldn’t be so tough on it as I doubt any other city in the western world has had as difficult of a last 60-some years than Darwin. The city was merciless bombed and destroyed by the Japanese during WWII and heroically rebuilt itself afterwards only to be leveled again by the Cyclone Tracy in 1974. Thus, for the most part, the oldest building, tree, etc in town is just over thirty years of age. This youthfulness, I think, is what gives Darwin the feel of a Mexican or Mediterranean beach resort town complete with stumbling drunk, sunburned tourists, of which there is no shortage in town.

Disappointed from my walking tour, I wandered into the Parliament and State Library building, mostly out of desire for some air-conditioning. Having no interest, nor probably not the clearance to saunter into a session of the Northern Territory parliament, I headed for the library. Of minimalist, spacious design, the library was primarily being used by backpackers for its free internet. I offered no exception to the trend. Few and far between are the times one finds free and fast internet in this part of the world, so you best take advantage.

My airport shuttle bus was due to arrive until 10:10pm, so in order to kill some time I stopped at the cinema to catch a movie. I had missed No Country for Old Men, so I settled for Jumper. I would have been more entertained had I given my $14 to a bum and watched him get drunk. It was likely the worst movie I have ever actually paid to see in a theatre. Seriously, it was that bad. How can any director or studio representative watch this at the end and think, “This is a good movie”? All the airport activities went as planned and I boarded my cheap, but less than direct flight (I fly through Melbourne to get to Perth – not exactly a straight line) just before midnight.

Note: I gave my camera a rest these past two days and took exactly no pictures. Not that Darwin is all that photogenic in the first place.

What I Learned Today: The hidden benefit of red-eye flights when backpacking is that it saves you the cost of a night of accommodation. On the flip side, you often don’t sleep very well on the plane and end up wasting the next day trying to find a decent place to take a nap.


permalink written by  exumenius on February 25, 2008 from Darwin, Australia
from the travel blog: Kiwis and Kangaroos
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Experiencing the Wet - Night 138

Darwin, Australia


Again the wet maintained its classic rhythm of brief, violent showers interspersed with periods of relative calm. It was during one of these respites that I managed to sneak away from the hostel and take a stroll along the water. Advertised as a beautiful harbor walk, the area and the trail is tragically underdeveloped and lacks anything at all to suggest that it should be a tourist destination. In all fairness to the City of Darwin, I shouldn’t be so tough on it as I doubt any other city in the western world has had as difficult of a last 60-some years than Darwin. The city was merciless bombed and destroyed by the Japanese during WWII and heroically rebuilt itself afterwards only to be leveled again by the Cyclone Tracy in 1974. Thus, for the most part, the oldest building, tree, etc in town is just over thirty years of age. This youthfulness, I think, is what gives Darwin the feel of a Mexican or Mediterranean beach resort town complete with stumbling drunk, sunburned tourists, of which there is no shortage in town.

Disappointed from my walking tour, I wandered into the Parliament and State Library building, mostly out of desire for some air-conditioning. Having no interest, nor probably not the clearance to saunter into a session of the Northern Territory parliament, I headed for the library. Of minimalist, spacious design, the library was primarily being used by backpackers for its free internet. I offered no exception to the trend. Few and far between are the times one finds free and fast internet in this part of the world, so you best take advantage.

My airport shuttle bus was due to arrive until 10:10pm, so in order to kill some time I stopped at the cinema to catch a movie. I had missed No Country for Old Men, so I settled for Jumper. I would have been more entertained had I given my $14 to a bum and watched him get drunk. It was likely the worst movie I have ever actually paid to see in a theatre. Seriously, it was that bad. How can any director or studio representative watch this at the end and think, “This is a good movie”? All the airport activities went as planned and I boarded my cheap, but less than direct flight (I fly through Melbourne to get to Perth – not exactly a straight line) just before midnight.

Note: I gave my camera a rest these past two days and took exactly no pictures. Not that Darwin is all that photogenic in the first place.

What I Learned Today: The hidden benefit of red-eye flights when backpacking is that it saves you the cost of a night of accommodation. On the flip side, you often don’t sleep very well on the plane and end up wasting the next day trying to find a decent place to take a nap.


permalink written by  exumenius on February 25, 2008 from Darwin, Australia
from the travel blog: Kiwis and Kangaroos
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