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JuergenS

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Trips:

Two month of Japan

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Preview: Gion Matsuri

Kyoto, Japan


Planning

Spent the last few days exploring the area of Gion in Kyoto and the Gion Matsuri held there. Will do a post about that soon, wanted to wait till I had all the pictures I needed. The festival is over tomorrow and I am pretty tired from walking the Path of Philosophy and standing for three hours while watching the Katsura performance at Yasaka shrine, so I will relax tomorrow and do some posts.
Got lots of pictures that need some editing before I can upload them.

So long and stay tuned,
JuergenS

permalink written by  JuergenS on July 16, 2010 from Kyoto, Japan
from the travel blog: Two month of Japan
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The Path of Philosophy and beyond

Kyoto, Japan


Singpost for the Path of Philosophy

Last week I decided to walk the Path of Philosophy and visit some temples and shrines on the way, before going back to Gion for the matsuri. I didn't have the time to write about this before, I will however post it with the original date of this tour.

I started off at the northern end of the Path of Philosophy, a walking trail connecting the Ginkaku-ji (Silver Pavilion) and the Nanzen-ji.


Ginkaku-ji

So Ginkaku-ji was first. I read quite often that a visit here is more rewarding than visiting the famed Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion), but I will take a look at both.
Even through being named the Silver Pavilion, it is not actually coated with silver (the Kinkaku-ji is, in fact, coated in gold), making it a rather grey structure. The tiles of the roofs are made of lead, so that they could be melted into bullets in case of emergency.
The pavilion itself was not that spectacular to be honest, but the surrounding garden was great.
Here are some pictures:

Entrance to Ginkaku-ji

Ginkaku-ji Garden

Ginkaku-ji

I then proceeded to ignore the riksha guys and start the walk down the Path of Philosophy. It's dotted with surrounding temples and shrines and leads to the Nanzen-ji, a massive temple complex with many sub-temples and a famous garden.


Along the way I stopped at this shrine:


Torii

Shrine

Old shrine

Shrine

It contains many statues of animals and was a beautiful sight.


Oh, and I passed this ancient kimono shop.


Sanmon


Nanzen-ji Oku-no-in

Aqueduct

Further south I reached the Nanzen-ji and was greeted by its massive sanmon (the main gate). I strolled on the premises for a while, decided not to enter the garden but go for a more hidden treasure of this temple, one which is overlooked by most visitors, the Nanzen-ji Oku-no-in.

Nanzen-ji Oku-no-in
It is a small sub-temple/shrine in the hills surrounding the main temple. It is a bit of a hike up there, along an aqueduct and through the forest, but once you have cleared the stone steps you reach a small shrine just in front of a beautiful waterfall. If one continues to climb up there is a small cave above the shrine, containing offerings and mourning tablets. The air there is thick with the smell of incense and the smoke combined with the mist form the waterfall create an unique atmosphere.



I really enjoyed it there.

After leaving I decided to walk back to Gion (public transit would of course have been easier, but I had the time, so walk it was). On my way I noticed how near I was to the Heian-shrine with its massive Torii (24m high, if the info on the flyer is correct). As mentioned before, I wasn't in a hurry, so I explored this shrine as well.


Heian-ji Torii

The buildings where pretty much what I expected, the stroll through the massive gardens was nice and cool though.
Pictures:

Heian-ji entrance

Heian-ji Garden

Heian-ji Garden

Heian-ji Garden

Heian-ji Garden

Why is that here?

After that I was on my way back to Gion, the Yasaka shrine and the matsuri.

So long and stay tuned,
JuergenS

permalink written by  JuergenS on July 15, 2010 from Kyoto, Japan
from the travel blog: Two month of Japan
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Preview: Next Week

Kyoto, Japan


Planning

As I said before, I will stay in Kyoto for a while now. This first week got me pretty tired, to be honest, and constantly hearing, reading and talking Japanese is straining too.
Well, this week is the Gion Matsuri anyway (starting Wednesday, lasting four days) with gigantic floats being pulled through the streets and lots of stalls left and right to try some food or your hand at traditional games. The festial actually spans the whole month of July, but those four days are the main part.

Also, I plan to do some cultural and culinary posts in the future too. Most probably there won't be a post from me everyday, but I will still keep you updated.

So long and stay tuned,
JuergenS

permalink written by  JuergenS on July 12, 2010 from Kyoto, Japan
from the travel blog: Two month of Japan
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Hiroshima - Miajima

Hiroshima, Japan


Floating Torii

It rained when I got up today, at least I slept quite well. Made my way to Miajima station and took the JR ferry to the island itself.
Turns out to be the site of some kind of Detective Conan event --> His voice did the introduction on the ferry and posters where everywhere to be seen.
After getting off, I saw this sign:


Deer sign

I head heard of the deer there and was eager to see some of them. Turned out to be rather easy, a 90° turn did the trick. They. Are. Everywhere.

Stag

Deer

Deer


Guy teasing deer
Oh, and this guy was teasing the deer, tapping and poking it with his umbrella. It didn't seem to mind. Watched them for a while and carried on the the main sight of this island: The floating Torii.


Itsukushima Shrine
Unfortunately the tide was already changing when I arrived, so the the shrine and temple, seeming to float at high tide, were not as impressive as on the promotional pictures, but still a nice sight.
Some even went down and walked through the mud the shrine actually stands on.

Took a look at the five-storey pagoda opposite the shrine and tried the other specialty of Hiroshima: Oysters. Even got one free ^^. They where good, wished there had been some lemon though.

Shopped for souvenirs and realized that I had still no idea what to bring back home. Suggestions?

Originally I had planned to visit the top of the local mountain, as the view from there is supposed to be great (also: more deer, some monkeys too), the weather prevented this.

Back in Hiroshima itself if confirmed something I suspected since yesterday. They love Mozart here. Proof:


Made my way back to Kyoto, using my first JRP for the last time (expires today). Will be staying at Kyoto for some time now, there is really enough to view here.

So long, and stay tuned,
JuergenS

permalink written by  JuergenS on July 11, 2010 from Hiroshima, Japan
from the travel blog: Two month of Japan
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Hiroshima - Touching history

Hiroshima, Japan


Promenade of Peace

My two-day trip to Hiroshima started, as always, by getting on the train at Kyoto station. After arriving, I toured the station building of Hiroshima a bit (all major stations are huge, multiple storeys, lots of shops (food and other)) and then made my way to the Youth Hostel. I figured it would be a good idea to exactly know where it is and how the buses are scheduled, as the Hiroshima Youth Hostel has a curfew. The walk there from the bus stop didn't seem so long, so so uphill, on the map online, but oh well.
Got there, payed and was off again, this time to the Peace Memorial Museum, located at the south end of the Peace Memorial Park.
On my way there I took a picture that for me really brings out the nature of Japan: A small shrine surrounded by high buildings on a livley crossroad. Indeed, where the past meets the future (I heard that slogan quite often already).

Shrine between modern buildings

Walked along the Promenade of Peace and reached the museum. Admission is 50yen, audio guides are available but not really necessary if you can read English. This museum depicts the horrors of the attack as well as the way leading there and the path Hiroshima took from there on. I didn't shoot many pictures in there (it's not forbidden, just don't use a flash), they wouldn't convey the atmosphere inside anyway. There is a room with big before-after miniatures of the city, there are whole walls lined with international letters of protest, there are medical descriptions of the consequences, there are areas where walls and parts of homes where restored to show how the heat and radiation of the bomb warped, fused and destroyed everyday life. There even is a wall with a shadow eternally burned into it where a human stood at the time of the impact.


Cranes folded by Sadako Sasaki
The story of Sawako, the girl believing in the legend that folding a thousand paper cranes will bring you happiness is also there, along with some of her cranes. She didn't reach her goal and died of radiation-induced Leukemia. Her classmates, however, finished her task and the story of the thousand paper cranes became known worldwide.

What probably touched me most was the video-area where witnesses and victims give there testimonies of those days, how their bodies reacted, how they lost everything and still held on to life.

There are only very few pictures in existence of the first hours after the detonation. A photographer was at the scene, but he was only able to take fife shots and it took him 30 minutes to bring himself to do that much. After those, his vision became too clouded by tears for all the horrors he witnessed.


A-Bomb Dome
After leaving the museum I walked through the park, saw the A-Bomb Dome, a building near the point of explosion that survived the attack (even through everything combustible inside was immediately destroyed). It was preserved as a reminder.

Framed here you can see the place where the flame of peace is kept, which burn as long as there are nukes on this world.


Sight from the Museum

Sight from the A-Bomb Dome

I rung the Bell of Peace and and left.


Bell of Peace

Bell of Peace sign

It was late afternoon by then and I decided to take a look at the lively entertainment areas of Hiroshima. I strolled through the nightlife areas and arcades and ended up eating at Okonomimura, a three storey area which consists of 25 stalls selling the same thing: Hiroshima-style Okonomiyaki, one of the local specialties. The food was great, but it became really really hot while sitting to the hot plate (on which they are made, teppanyaki-style), eating piping hot food still on that plate.

Oh, and I found this add. Yes, they really sell those things, about 9EUR and it is yours.

Back to the station and subsequently to the Hostel I crashed, tomorrow I will take a look at Miajima.

So long and stay tuned,
JuergenS

permalink written by  JuergenS on July 10, 2010 from Hiroshima, Japan
from the travel blog: Two month of Japan
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Preview: Hiroshima

Kyoto, Japan


Planning

For the next two days I will be exploring Hiroshima. While known to the world pretty much only as the target used for testing "Little Boy", it actually is an thriving and lively town. The attack killed one third of Hiroshima's inhabitants, and approximately as many in the years to follow, but the people recovered and are now as proud as one can be of their very own culture. There are lots of shopping and entertainment districts/streets and a lot to see.
But of course, the Peace Memorial Park, Museum, the Flame of Peace and the Bakudan-Dome remain the number one reasons for tourists to visit.

So long and stay tuned,
JuergenS

permalink written by  JuergenS on July 9, 2010 from Kyoto, Japan
from the travel blog: Two month of Japan
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Eiheiji

Fukui, Japan


Eiheiji gate

Made my way to Fukui today, which is on the same track as Kanazawa. Had a pretty fun conversation with the Japanese man I sat next to. Gave me opportunity to use my Japanese outside of ordering food and buying tickets. Small confidence boost *g*

Eiheiji is quite easily accessible from Fukui station by bus (a special bus is available). As I mentioned in my Preview post, it's a main temple and therefore quite big. Visitors are welcome (quite a lot of money is made this way after all) but have to abide by the same rules as those staying there for spiritual guidance or the study of Zen (e.g. no shoes inside, no provocative clothing, no shouting).

Before entering the complex itself, I took a look at the garden surrounding the temple and found a graveyard and some beautiful scenery.


Graveyard

Pond decoration

The temple was pretty much what I expected, but the tour to see the seven main buildings and halls was pretty neat.


Eiheiji hall

The four guardians of Buddha where present as well.


The Guardians of Buddha

The Guardians of Buddha


Things to think about
The main corridor before leaving the temple was stacked with heirlooms of the temple and with pictures like this one:

On my way out I bought some special Eiheiji sweets and made my way back to Fukui. I was pretty surprised who was waiting there for me:


Raptor Jesus?

Yes, that's a Dinosaur in a white suit reading a book and holding a Lizard Skull. Apparently he advertises a local Dinosaur exhibition.

Wandered to Fuikui some time, ate Sauce Katsudon (which was mentioned in my Lonely Planet, good choice). Also, it seems there are Votes coming up in Fukui, as quite some cars like this where driving around. They have speakers proclaiming reasons to vote for their respective candidate. Gets annoying after some time.

So long and stay tuned,
JuergenS

permalink written by  JuergenS on July 8, 2010 from Fukui, Japan
from the travel blog: Two month of Japan
tagged Temple and Scenic
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Preview: Eiheiji

Kyoto, Japan


Planning

I will visit the Eiheiji temple tomorrow, one of the two main temples of the Soto sect (Zen Buddhism). It consists of about 70 buildings and is well visited all year long.

As for today, I spent the day at Yurakuso bringing sleep, hydration and personal hygiene to Normal levels and relaxing.

Stay tuned,
JuergenS

permalink written by  JuergenS on July 7, 2010 from Kyoto, Japan
from the travel blog: Two month of Japan
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Kanazawa

Kanazawa, Japan


Kenrokuen Garden

Woke up late, nevertheless a bit tired and with a beginning headache today. Downed the litre water I bought yesterday along with some aspirin. Considered canceling my trip to Kanazawa, decided to just go for it in the end. After all, they say that a journey is the most enjoyable with a lot of spontaneity. It was already noon but I headed out. Turned out to be a mistake.

I went via the Thunderbird Special Express to Kanazawa, a trip taking about two hours. Sat next to an old couple which was quite entertaining. First of all, Kansai-ben is <3, if I may put it like that. Also I never met anyone who was impressed by literally EVERYTHING in the scenery before witnessing this woman. The husband was pretty quiet and downed one beer after another.

Well, having reached Kanazawa I decided to walk through the city instead of using public transit, which worked quite well. Was glad to have a compass at hand, however.


Omicho market entrance
My first stop was Omicho market. I love such markets and this one was no disappointment. Lots of fresh seafood, lots of fruit and lots of foodstuff.


Omicho market
Also, this was the first time I heard Japanese shout on the top of their lungs, praising their goods. The three employees of this shop topped each other with their yelling.


Bought a snack and some giant apples and was off to the next thing to see, the Nagamachi Samurai District.


Nagamachi Samurai District

This area, although with questionable authenticity of the houses, shows how the warriors of old lived. As nice as the scenery was, it didn't impress me much. The cars parked next to the classic samurai houses kinda killed the illusion.

The Kenrokuen on the other hand fulfilled my expectations, is was as beautiful as described. Labeled one of the three most beautiful gardens in Japan, is got a lot of water, fascinating greenery and some statues, fitting nicely in their surroundings. Admission was 300yen, well worth it.
Here are some pictures:


Kenrokuen Garden


Kenrokuen Garden


Kenrokuen Garden


Sake barrels
Near one of the entrances of the garden I found a small shrine with sake barrels stacked next to it. These are offerings to the shrine, probably due to tomorrow being Tanabata.

I didn't really have the time to visit the castle park or the castle itself in Kanazawa, but decided to go for a tip in my travel guide: A sake brewery.
Things went downhill from there. And I am not talking about a soft, gentle hill surrounded by grass, I am talking about a high and steep kind of hill, surrounded by flat concrete to fall on. Probably some stone spikes too.

Well, I didn't find the brewery and decided to go back, stopping for an hour or two in Kaga for a quick soak in one of its four onsen. Unfortunately either not all trains from Kanazawa to Kyoto stop in Kaga, or my info was false, leading to the last train from Kaga to Kyoto departing about two hours too soon, leaving me with too litte time to visit a bath. Decided to grab something to eat (turned out to be ramen) and buy some stuff in a nearby mart.
Long story short: I didn't make it the last train and had to spend the night at the station. Not IN the station, as it closed pretty soon after the last train left, but AT, meaning on a bench at the nearby bus stop.
Got a bit of sleep and took the first train back home, which departed at 5:30. Will probably change my plans a bit and stay at home tomorrow.
Spontaneity my ass.

So long and stay tuned,
JuergenS

permalink written by  JuergenS on July 6, 2010 from Kanazawa, Japan
from the travel blog: Two month of Japan
tagged Scenic
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Reaching Yurakuso

Kyoto, Japan


Kyoto station

Having reached Narita, exchanged some money and got hold of my Japan Rail Pass, I headed off to Kyoto. Getting my ticket was easy enough, the change of trains in Shinagawa was manageable as well.
Ate my first Ekiben (station bento, see below) on the way and got a drink out of a vending machine. And yes, they are EVERYWHERE (even saw a construction site with a bit of a structure-to-be, some workers and, yes, a Coca Cola vending machine).

Ekiben - Narita

I reached Kyoto, got on a bus (flat rate 220yen) and got off at the stop specified by the owner of my first Guest House. Called him from there (Yay, my first phone call in Japan) and his wife picked me up and led me to Yurakuso.
The old couple I mentioned earlier and which is advertising on their site handed the business over to the next generation, their son and his wife (both really young) are now in charge.

The owner himself was not in but he was to pay me a visit (in order to show me around and collect the rent) later that evening. Was ushered to my room, started to unpack and took a breather. It has been 25 hours since I left my home in Austria by then.


Yurakusou

My room, front

My room, side


Kamogawa

Wanting to orientate myself, I started to explore my new neighborhood.
It is near the Kamo river (Kamogawa), a prominent river in Kyoto, and got some good oportunities for relaxing. Also, Yurakuso is near quite a number of temples and shrines as well as a street full of places for shopping and eating. Will explore those later.


<-- Oh, and I found this in the window of a local stonemason next to Mickey Mouse.


Bought something to drink and called home for everyone to know I arrived and went to sleep.

So long and stay tuned,
JuergenS

permalink written by  JuergenS on July 5, 2010 from Kyoto, Japan
from the travel blog: Two month of Japan
tagged Arrival and Kyoto
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