Cold beer and hot beaches (hehe)

Varkala is a small town which is located close to a cliff top. The town itself isn't the main attraction here - most tourists come to stay at Varkala Cliff, 6km away, where a string of resorts, beach huts, and restaurants has popped up to meet demand. It is a touristy feeling place, only really being there to accommodate beach seeking tourists, but has popped up for a reason: this place is stunningly

beautiful. The beach is a mixture of black and golden sand set beneath cliffs of stunning red sandstone, lined wtih palm trees and coconut trees. It's a surf beach, perfect for body surfing and boogie boarding (and of course there are making use of this by hiring out boogie boards down on the beach). It's one of India's most dangerous beaches though, with a stong undertow, so you have to be careful. The police kick

Varkala

everyone out of the water at sunset. If you walk to the north, the cliffs subside and there are small semi private beaches you can find. However, it's suggested that you dress conservatively on these beaches, as there's a mosque nearby - the area is a holy one. This didn't stop people stripping down when I went walking up there though.

Markets

We arrived without a place to stay, but quickly found a cute little place with basic bamboo and concrete huts. Luckily, unlike many places along the cliff front, it was a budget place which didn't charge an arm and a leg. So we dropped our bags and went out for a beer. The beer was served to us in a covert bottle, wrapped in newspaper, which we had to hide under the table. Many places here avoid paying tax on the beers, and pay off the police who patrol the cliff front. So long as they keep the

Choose your fish and they'll cook it for you

beer discrete, everyone's happy, especially us! Though it does make me feel a little like I'm 16 again. So we sipped on our cold beer in glasses wrapped in napkins, and started chatting to an older couple who were visiting from Sweeden. The woman was fascinating, being a curator in a museum. She was a strong headed and wise woman with a spark about her, who strongly remined me of my Grandma. So strange how no matter how far from home you are, there's always something which takes you back instantly.

The next day we deemed a beach day, and I'm sorry to say that both Glen and I got burnt, despite wearing lots of sunscreen and reapplying. Ah well, I guess it was bound to happen given how fair I am and how strong the Indain sun is. So we spent the next few days in and out of the sun, putting on more sunscreen (too) regularly.

I'm afraid there's not much more to say in this blog; there's only so much I can write about lying in the sand, reading, and body surfing. Glen started and finished a book in a day - a first ever for him. I got some battle scars from body surfing and getting dumped in the strong undertow. The surf threatened my handstiched bikini, but the addition of some elastic I'd been carrying with me worked a charm. I avoided any unnecessary nudity thankfully.

Tonight we catch a train back up the coast to a little, relatively undeveloped beach called Gokarna - Gabes' favourite while he was here in India. From there we're heading to Goa via the inland ruins of Hampi. So we've got about 3 more weeks of beaches and temples, with a half week diversion inland. I dare say that if I avoid getting burnt again, I might even come back with a tan! Now THAT's a shocking prospect for me, with my fair, dutch skin.

Mags

written by

Capto on February 3, 2010 from Varkkallai, India

from the travel blog: Two months in Limbo

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