The Takaka valley is flat as a pancake, and as such you can see the weather coming in from miles away over the mountain tops. Apparently it's much wetter than the Nelson region because of this, but I saw no evidence of that! I'm staying at Annie's Nirvana Lodge, which while it doesn't perhaps bring a nirvana-like state, has a wonderful sun-trap garden, cosily-worn style inside, and some very cool and friendly staff and long-termers staying (plus the slightly mad owner, Alan, who seems to laugh all the time). And cheap bikes! The first thing I do is grab a bike and cycle the 6km to the Pupu Springs, a large area of springs set in regenerating bush: one of the clearest springs in the world. You can see the water bubbling up in the clear pools, and watch the 'Dancing Sands' as the bubbling of water sets the sand moving below the surface. It's a peaceful, tranquil area, despite the relatively large number of tourists there. It's all I can do not to dive into the pools (the springs are closed to prevent evil algae infiltrating their purity) after a hot, sweaty ride from Takaka, culminating in a hill at the end. To my embarrassment, i meet two old Dutch ladies who have also cycled from town; they didn't seem the types to push their bikes up the hill like I did! On the way back I stop at the Takaka river, where a few campers are parked up (including one decked out to look like a wooden house on wheels), and paddle in the clear water and chill out in the sun for a while.
Takaka is a one-street sort of town, with a kooky, hippie vibe - one of the first people i see is a girl in long skirts, wearing beads, leaning against a painted-up van holding a bunch of flowers. These aren't weekend hippies, these are the real deal, selling their wares in the little green areas that pepper the main street, spinning staff, and setting up slack-lines in the park.
That night I go out with the a Japanese guy, Shingo, and an Austrian girl, Tumasha, who work at the hostel, and an old guy Kiwi guy called Dave, who lives in a bus out the back. It's a dub/reggae night at the local Roots bar, they have four-berry cider, and it's a lot of fun - the music is good and the dancing is ace! I have to call it a night at 1am though since I'm shattered from the early start (and that gruelling bike ride of course, ahem).
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