Kogui boy peeking at the gringos

OK that photo's a bit out of sequence here, but I like it so much I think it deserves to go at the top.

Breakfast time

The first day had really just been an introduction because on day two, the jungle started getting thicker and greener, and the scenery became more beautiful. There were more lovely fresh water pools of rivers in which to swim (or somersault, depending on you). Castro had told us that all of the water was very fresh but some people (not in our group) still insisted on adding water purification tablets. At least the tour group hadn't let health and safety go mad!

Another swim break

Lovely clear water

Poor mulas

As if that weren't enough, we had now started passing tiny villages and occasional single dwellings. These dwellings were really quite remote and the people did not appear to be that used to tourists. It seems bizarre, since this is definitely one of the major tourist destinations in Colombia but, when you add all sort of factors, like Colombia still having a bit of a dodgy international reputation (totally undeservedly), that many people are put off by a six-day trek, the fact that this area was closed between 2003 and 2005 after a large scale tourist kidnapping by FARC, and the fact that the site wasn't even discovered at all until 1972, then it does become believable. This is very remote and, though there are quite a lot of tourists here, it is nowhere near the same league as Machu Picchu or any city in Colombia, and most of the contact with the locals – the Kogi or Kogui Indians – is with several community leaders who run the little businesses, providing food and accommodation to the tourists; most of the rest just watch the gringos passing from a distance.

Kogui village

Livestock in the village

Little Kogui girls walking alone up the path

Cute, but look at the size of that machete!

And they're already working

And this belongs here. It's so cute it can go in twice.

Kogui boy peeking at the gringos

Our guide, Castro, told us that until only ten years ago the Kogi used to throw rocks at the passing tourists and did not really want them on their land at all. Then the government spoke to the community leaders and cut a deal, whereby the community would get all of the entrance fees from the tourists, and since then they have been far more welcoming. On the down side, according to Castro, this extra money means that they are forgetting their traditional way of life. Well, you can't really keep the people poor just to entertain the tourists with their traditional ways, can you?

The track was great: there was no difficulty with the terrain and I was regretting having wasted all that time and money on new shoes when other people were wearing flip-flops. Again, lunch was fantastic and Castro had now singled me out as the guy who likes second helpings. The food was really nice, and there was loads of it, but I didn't really feel like this level of exercise deserved more. But I find it hard to say no when offered nice food. Despite what we had been told by the group at the start of the walk, day two wasn't very hard either, though I think there was some moaning from the back.

Second night's accommodation

Gorgeous swimming spot next to accommodation

Where we slept. Everyone else is the family of that guy, the majordomo.

Fraggle trying to fly while "Mr Bond" waits for a surprise

No seats for the other group

The second night's accommodation was even nicer than the first: it was a small place with the most amazing swimming spot out the back. It was run by a very high status local, who not only ran this business, but was also the school teacher. Therefore he had two wives and loads of children, who were all very cute and fascinated by electronics. Ipods they particularly liked, though digital cameras were popular as well.

He has a lot of kids

They love it

Cute kids

Really was a lovely swimming spot

Great soup

All day Castro had been carrying an awkward box, which he said contained huevos. It turned out that he had been told that it was Ali's birthday during the trek, so he had brought a birthday cake for her all the way up there. He also produced a couple of bottles of fruit wine and several half-bottles of aguardiente for us. By coincidence, it was also the birthday of his son, Juan Carlos, who was with us on the trek, so we sang Happy Birthday for him too. His birthday and his dad had made him work all day! Castro claimed they had celebrated JC's birthday before the tour began, but we still gave him some cake. Ali probably needed something to cheer her up as her feet were already blistering.

Mel and Gemma, and birthday girl Ali hiding

Birthday girl

Double birthday

written by  The Happy Couple on January 9, 2010 from Ciudad Perdida, Colombia
from the travel blog: Michael's Lonely post-Honeymoon
Send a Compliment

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Hi!

While waiting to sign in to my account i noticed your blog and just want to say that it is really great and keep up the good work. Your South American adventure seems fantastic and your accounts of differences between the UK amongst other cultures all very interesting - and true dare i say, we do like to take the piss, that's our way of saying we like you!

Safe travels from a fellow blogger whose journey ended somewhere between an Asian yesterday and a London this morning!

50

written by  Lenameets50 on March 4, 2010

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