Punakaiki - no ATM, no food shops, 'just' stunning scenery

After an uneventful stopover night back in Nelson, I get the bus to Punakaiki, home of the famous Pancake Rock rock formations. I'm the only person to get off the bus there, but as soon as I see the Punakaiki Beach hostel - brightly painted, with a large garden, right on the beach, I know I've made the right choice. Even better when the guy who checks me in immeadiatly offers me a lift into 'town' (te minutes away over the hill) Sure, there's little to Punakaiki but the Rocks themselves, some hostels & hotels, a DOC office, an overpriced cafe and a gift shop, but the scenery - the raging, pounding West coast sea, backed by towering, weather-beaten craggy cliffs, is wild and spectacular. The place even has it's own microclimate, giving it an almost tropical feel, with real rainforest rather than the usual bush.

The Pancake Rocks themselves are weird, alien-looking ancient rock formations on the coast - much, much bigger and widespread that I'd expected! When the tide is high and rough (i think it's always rough...), some of the rocks act as blowholes, shooting spray high into the air, drawing 'oohs' from the assembled tourists (including moi). There is also a raging surge pool which you can gaze down into, carved out by the sea, and the water rages and boils inside it, eroding bit by bit with every tide.

written by

LizIsHere on February 25, 2010 from Punakaiki, New Zealand

from the travel blog: New Zealand & Australia 2010

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