Many say that the most overwhelming first experience of Delhi is the people. For me it was the beaurocracy.
Getting through customs took me an hour and as I went through to baggage collection I looked back at hundreds of tourists with anxious faces. They new they were going to be there for a long time.

It was another hour before my bag came through the hole in the wall. I had time to look around and what I saw was what I expected to see. the airport of a third world country that had seen no maintainence for a long time and a smell that was at once familiar and lingered intentensely .

I took my pack to the exit and started looking for my taxi guy. The residency that I was staying at provided this service and I am so grateful that they did. I walked through the sea of taxi drivers holding cards and suddenly saw my name. THe driver was more relieved than I was and shook my hand warmly.

He began a conversation with me in what he thought was english. I just talked back and nodded. He took my pack and off we went through what seemed like thousands of people standing around looking like they were waiting.

We made our way onto the street and the first thing I saw were broken down taxis. hundreds of them, beaten up and coughing and spluttering in a chaotic chant.

My first sensory experience was the thick smell of incense, smog and rotting.
Delhi is also dimly lit.
I was overwhelmed by my first encounter with Delhi and I will it fondly for the rest of my life.
My taxi driver kept walking and talking as we came to a tunnel.

Hundreds of beggars that lined the tunnel were wailing for help. "No problem" my driver kept saying. We reached the end of the tunnel and into a car park where this time thousands of vehicles were loading luggage and people onto their cars roof racks. It was chaos. I was enthralled.

We finally got to his taxi and the disappointment on my face must have confused him. His taxi was a newish model Daihatsu. I was expecting a beat up wreck.
"I'll take a ride in one before I leave" I said to myself.
We drove.

There are no road rules in India. If anything got in the way, an old truck or a three wheeler we just swerved around them. All the trucks had "Stop" and "blow your horn" written on the back of them. In India red lights signal an increase in speed.
The streets were full. People, cows and dirt.
We came to a set of big gates at Global Arts Village and with a toot of his horn my taxi driver was admitted by a man dressed as half security guard half Punjaby.

We got out beyond the gate and I was led by both the security guard and the driver through the dark grounds of the village to my room.

They let themselves into my room and had a long look around. I let them have this moment. It must be rare.
I shook their hands, thanked them and off they went.

I was exhausted and I slept that morning in my room with the thick indescribable air of Delhi.

I arose at 9.30am with the sound of workmen and women thatching a roof, sweeping and hammering.
when I went outside I was in an oasis. The beautiful grounds of the village.
I met Madhi who offered me breakfast in the pergoda. As I ate the incredible food I looked with awe at what was around me.

working men and women everywhere. Before me was a microcosm of the population of Delhi.
Everywhere you go in the village there are people to serve you. During the day I met and spoke with many of them including the coordinator Sunil and the founder and Guru, Ashwin.

He directs his village in a manner that I have never seen before.
I can see Ashwin is the lord and master around here.

He invited me to have lunch with him and his staff. I'm the first resident artist here and I am so glad I have that priviledge before the other ten artists arrive in two days.
Here everything is catered for. My room is very comfortable and the food is amazing. There is plenty of fresh drinking water and every now and then a staff member interupts my work to offer me a hot chai tea.

The mosquitos are here for another week when winter starts then they are gone. Until then I'm taking my anti malerials every day.
I've pinched myself a few times today.
After my conversations with Ashwin I have realised the commercial potential of my work as an artist in Delhi.
I'm off to bed. I don't notice the air anymore
All in one day.
Incredible India!

written by  Eric Broome on October 31, 2006 from Delhi, India
from the travel blog: Journey to the Arts End
tagged DayOne
Send a Compliment

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Sounds like a wonderful journey. Maybe one day I may experience such things. I am on the other side of the equator just moving out of a cold winter and into spring on a little island , Tasmania, part of Australia, but it was missed off the flag when the Olympics were held in Sydney. It is a beautiful place. A stark contrast to your Blog Eric. Quiet, and places to go where ther are no people, just nature to commune with. I am an artist to and wish you well in your adventure.
Jada

written by  Jadadi on November 2, 2006

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I have the small newspaper in a province of the United States, I would ask the author to write to me I shall publish some your clauses. Success to you and creative successes.

written by  Alik Bolduin on November 15, 2006

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Hello Alik
I am happy for you to print some of my writings. please email me through this website.
Looking forward to hearing from you soon
Eric

written by  Eric Broome on November 16, 2006

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India is not as bad as you have described, it has a different feel to it, and if you put your pre decided thoughts aside, you would see a new perspective which has given existence to India for generations.

written by  rajan on February 21, 2010

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