Day 1

There is a further exit from NLEX coming out past Tarlac City but this will cause you to backtrack if you are going on the Romulo Highway. In any case, Luisita was an intended layover as it is such an agreeable place and a pity that they have not been able to make a real go of it. I enjoy the tree-lined streets and the expanses of sugar cane fields but you note a sense of abandonment and disuse. Robinson’s has taken over the mall and this will hopefully start to liven up the place. But in reality, a stop there is a must as it is the last Starbucks until Baguio and the end of civilization as some of us would prefer it.

It is a short distance from Luisita to the junction to Alaminos on the National Highway. It is actually a fork with a roundabout. The Grand Prix Hotel next to the Victory Liner station is a very visible landmark. Turning left on the fork and getting off the National Highway, you enter what I assume is the city proper of Tarlac. As you will often experience along this route, you will get to a one-way road with no signs to inform you what to do or where to go next. Turning right and then left on the first street, we crossed a major bridge after which we stopped to get directions. Fortunately it was a lucky guess and we were soon on the Romulo Highway and back in the countryside.

This road presents a pleasant change from the countryside we are familiar with passing through the National Highway going to Baguio or La Union. The landscape is very green and wooded if not flat and completely planted with rice. The road is asphalted with stretches of concrete and in very good condition. Gasoline stations quickly become few and far in between so I suggest you load up in Tarlac if you are low or particular about your fuel. We also discovered that there are no ATM’s until Alaminos so cash up too for incidentals. Despite the pesky tricycles slowing us down on the road, the towns flew by very quickly and we finally got a view of the sea somewhere between Labrador and Sual. Sual is big of fish with numerous stalls selling fresh catch along the road. Watermelon seemed to be in season too.

The drive from Tarlac to Alaminos is about another 2 hours. Alaminos is the last major town heading the opposite direction from Dagupan and Lingayen. It is really quite small but relatively busy. A mall has gone up since the last time I stopped there 3 or 4 years ago for lunch at McDonald’s on the way to Subic from Baguio. They now have Chowking and the ever present Jolibee as well. All the major banks also have branches there including BPI where we got some money. In the heart of Alaminos is a junction with one branch going to Zambales, another going to Bolinao and the third going to the wharves where you take a boat to Hundred Islands which is a place I must revisit soon. On our way to Subic from Bolinao we take a turn in Bani to Zambales that would meet up with the road starting at this fork.

Alaminos to Bolinao is another hour and a half. We missed the turn to the resorts and stopped at the town proper where we saw this magnificently old church. Getting directions to the resort area, we promised to return to explore the church on the way to Subic. It was another 10 kilometer drive on mostly unpaved road on the way to Puerto del Sol, our first stop. We passed a number of small resorts and I was starting to get worried about the quality of accommodations here specially with our business in mind. Puerto del Sol turned out to be quite a pleasant surprise and nothing near what we expected.

Puerto del Sol is a statement of class and quality. The beach is not that great but the golden brown sand is a great combination for the view of the breakers in the distance. The pool makes up for the swimming you miss in the ocean and the surrounding gardens, arranged and trimmed to perfection, almost obscure the Mediterranean style clusters of rooms made up in simplistic elegance. This theme flows into the dining area which has that old home feel with matching décor and furniture. Staying here comes with a price but worth every penny if you can afford it.

We visited other resorts which paled in comparison but had a treat at the Bolinao lighthouse which was along the way. The short climb rewards you with a sweeping view. The lighthouse and the adjoining building are very old but there was no information to be had as it was completely deserted although the lighthouse itself seems secured and self sustained with solar power and all.

written by  Joey Carlotta on November 18, 2008 from Bolinao, Philippines
from the travel blog: Bolinao – Subic – Mariveles
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