Our driver decided to take the scenic route to our hotel--through the slums. The whole way he was winding us up in classic Indian taxi-cab driver fashion with the old "You can't trust anyone in India, everyone in India is out to get you, everyone will pretend to be your friend, but they are not your friend, everyone wants your money, you cannot under any circumstances trust anyone in India, except me." I am familiar with this particular song and dance, and while it may become exhaustively annoying after a month or so in country, I actually found it sort of nostalgic and amusing in my jet-lagged state, so i sat in the back of the car and didn't say much.
The slums can be shocking to someone who has never experienced them, especially with western eyes. miles and miles of jumbled-together structures and lean-tos made of materials ranging from tarp and corrugated iron, to cement. Open sewers lined good portions of the road. People slept on the median. This was India at it's most difficult and visceral. I was a little confused as to why our driver would take this particular route to Colaba, Every other time I'd taken a ride to or from the airport we went along marine drive which is actually quite beautiful. At first I thought it was maybe a short cut. Then our driver stopped at a wine shop to get some whiskey, "for after", he assured us. It took us much longer than it should have to get to our hotel--well over an hour, but we finally made it. Poor Kristen was shell-shocked. She had been sitting up front the whole time as we raced through narrow slum-lined streets at 100 km per hour. She'd born the brunt of our driver's paranoia-inducing pitch. She was understandibly frightened and ungrounded. It was an unfortunate intruduction to one of my favorite cities in India--I tried to reassure Kristen and Katie that Bombay was actually an amazing multi-faceted city, that we had only seen one of it's realities. I think they believed me. We tried to sleep at a 10 hr. time difference. We were all exhausted. by genevieve