A View of Monterosso from the Hills

Last week was kind of a blur. We started classes on Monday as well as our internships. My group didn't do much in the way of work. We just walked around the city and the museum getting Roman history lessons in italian. I really enjoyed it. Trying to understand a constant stream of italian is mentally exhausting. But eventually you stop trying and just start absorbing what they're saying. It's hard to describe, but it's amazing to realize that you've been understanding someone who is speaking in a foreign language. Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday were pretty much the same. We went grocery shopping (which is really stressful here!) and made dinner each night at the apartment. It's impressive what a few good ingredients can do for a simple meal! My new favorite things are Caprese salad - just mozzarella, tomatoes, and basil; crostinis (I've always loved the ones my dad makes) - basically the same as a caprese salad but on toasted bread with garlic and olive oil; and pasta with salmon sauteed in paprika, olive oil, and garlic. YUM! I eat sooo much food here.
Also on Tuesday we went up to the Castel Sant'Angelo across the river from our school. It was beautiful and I will add some pictures. We ended up walking along the river all the way back to Tiber Island. There are two large walkways on each side of the river that are far below street level and flanked by walls so you can't see the city at all. The water is an odd green color and there is trash in the trees. But despite the dirt and sometimes the smell, it was peaceful. We met a group of boys that asked us where we were from. I tend to get slightly nervous about europeans finding out I'm american, but these boys responded with "I LOVE America!" Things have really changed since Obama was elected.
On Thursday the UW Rome Center put on a movie night for all of the programs. We watched Gladiator. It's such a good movie! I love seeing the Coliseum intact and Rome as it was back in those times.
On Friday we went as a group (all of the people here studying italian) to the Vatican. I didn't know anything could be more...spectactular...than Westminster Abbey. But I was dead wrong. St. Peter's Basilica has more gold, more marble, more everything than anything I've seen! It was hard to take it all in. We saw Michelangelo's Pieta and a statue of St. Paul from the 15th century and Bernini's baldachin, which is the bronze canopy over the main altar in the basilica. We learned that some of the bronze used in it was taken from the ceiling of the Pantheon. We also learned that according to the contract establishing Vatican City as a sovereign state, Rome is not allowed to build anything taller than the dome of the Basilica that Michelangelo designed. The Pope is a lucky guy to have such an interesting place to live.

After the Vatican, my roommates and I took a train to a small town in the Cinque Terre region called Monterosso. It's right on the Mediterranean and so small that it doesn't even have a supermarket. The instant we stepped off the train, I was in love. In front of me was the sea, and behind me were the mountains. The town is colorful and surprisingly busy. It's full of small locally-owned shops and restaurants. We walked around the town and up to the cemetery on saturday. Almost every grave had flowers on it. It was very different from american graves.
The hills there are covered in trees, grass, cactus, and aloe plants. Everywhere we went there was a view of the sea. That night we had the best food that can be found in the entire world. I can't even describe how amazing it was. But, if you ever find yourself in Monterosso al Mare, go to Via Venti in a street called Via XX Setembre. Rick Steves recommended it, and I will always follow his advice from now on.
At night we went to Fast Bar, the local hangout for the younger crowd. We met a few boys from the town who were impressed with our unusual ability to speak italian. I enjoy disproving stereotypes.
On Sunday my friends Zoe, Molly and I hiked from Monterosso to Vernazza, the next town of the five. It was an intense walk. There were no switch-backs, just stairs going straight up. It felt good to exercise, and I have some beautiful pictures from up on the mountain. In Vernazza we had pizza that blew my mind. It's on the only main street in town, so you can't miss it. Make sure you go there too. After eating we layed out on the ground in the sun. I closed my eyes and listened to the sound of the water, the forks and knives scraping plates at nearby restaurants, the soft buzz of italian, the light breeze, and the smell of food and the sea mixed together. It was the most peaceful I have ever felt somewhere other than our cabin. I decided then that I need to figure out how to make a living in Cinque Terre and move there. I doubt they have a word for 'stress.'

Now I am back in Rome and the heat, trying to save money.
This week is Holy Week and the city is supposed to be inundated with tourists, people who aren't working, and kids who aren't in school. It's going to be eventful...

written by  kalib on April 6, 2009 from Monterosso al Mare, Italy
from the travel blog: Guido Watch '09
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oh good.
i was worried about you.

good luck trying to save money, we're failing at it over here.

written by  hannah on April 6, 2009

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