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Butterflies, dolphins and a skinny dipping former husky farmer

Glengarriff, Ireland


Wow, what an amazing morning! We woke to see clear blue sky and warm rays beating in on our faces and woke feeling great. We hopped out of the car and were greeted with the most amazing views of Dingle Bay and the ocean, we just couldn’t help thinking “ahhh, this is the life!” We made ourselves a nice brekki and took it with us down to the cliff tops where we sat and watched the fishing trawlers head out for the day, bliss. Butterflies, about 20 of them, fluttered about our heads, landing on the flowers around us, spreading their wing and resting before darting off again, it was lovely, then, a man who we realized had been camping just around the mound from us went down to the beach, stripped off and dove into the ocean. I didn’t mean to look; I really didn’t but I just so happened to look down at the beach as he did this. Oops. I’ve now seen 3 skinny dippers on this trip. We sat on the cliff top, eating brekki, relaxing in the early warmth of the day, taking it all in and then the skinny dipper whistled out to us, I made Chris look over, and he was pointing out to us a Dolphin that had swum into the bay. It was truly gorgeous! We stood and watched this Dolphin rise and fall into the ocean in a chilled out, relaxed fashion. It wasn’t in any hurry; it was just taking its time and seemed so content. We watched this beautiful creature for as long as he stuck around and we decided that this was most probably the famous Dingle Dolphin named “Fungi” (a misfortunate name that’s for sure, not the nicest!) This dolphin lives around Dingle and has appeared on TV and in movies apparently. He’s wild but very very tame and people go out on tours to see him for e16 each, and here we were in the most beautiful place yet and seeing him for free. The best start to a day EVER!



After this we thought that we’d better ask the skinny dipper up for a coffee, after all he had been kind enough to point out Fungi to us. We waited until he had pants on and then offered him a warm beverage which he gratefully accepted. I’m sorry to say I didn’t actually catch his name but I know it stated with an H. He was German and he was touring Europe, Ireland and the UK by bike. He’d chucked his job in earlier in the year (he was a spin cycle instructor, which was handy I guess in preparing for such a challenge…) and just took off. Now, it’s just him, his bike and a sleeping bag. He started in Munich and was on his way around Ireland before heading off again. It came to pass in conversation, when we asked if he’d done this before (the answer was yes) that he’d once ended up in Norway and in need of money had become a husky farmer. I didn’t even know that huskies needed farming! Well, in fairness I don’t really think about huskies that often… I was impressed with his former occupation, not one that you come across very often to say the least! He was a very very nice young man (with kind smiling eyes) we had a lovely chat over coffee and wished each other luck and safe travels before moving on our separate ways. As Chris and I drove off I looked over my shoulder and Fungi was making splashes out in the water as if to say “bye!” A lovely send off to say the least!

Our route today was the ring of Kerry. It’s a scenic route that takes you along the coast, a little inland; back out to the coast once more before you go on your way to your next destination. It was pretty, but I don’t think it was as nice as yesterday’s beauty. Still, the ocean was sparkling blue and as it was 27 degrees today we couldn’t resist stopping off at a lovely long beach for a swim in the Atlantic Ocean. I slapped on about 10 liters worth of sun screen before hopping out of the car and dipping a toe in the water. I’d applied so much that once I was in the water it was washing off me, running down my nose etc, quite amusing really. The water was beautiful and warm; the floor of the ocean clear sand, no sea weed or rocks to have to pick over, and it went on and on forever before it became deep enough to swim properly. We swam, paddled and danced about in the water for ages, laughing, relaxing and cooling down from the day’s heat. It was very refreshing!


We then moved on driving past look outs over the ocean, past mountains with varying deep green coloring and through stone tunnels, which were very cool to look at but a little scary to have to pass through all at the same time.

As tonight was a shower night (bliss bliss bliss!!!!) we found in our ‘camper van booklet’ a site that looked inviting and homey. It also declared to have WIFI which we welcomed as we haven’t had a chance to jump on and contact the world for a little while now. We rang ahead and reserved a spot and trundled on our way. We’d consumed all our water for the day, not a drop remained in the car so before pulling over for the night stopped in the town of Glengarriff to stock up on water and a few other little bits and bobs. As I was so incredibly hot I kindly allowed Chris the honor of having to get out in the heat, walk the streets, battle the shoppers then the check outs and staggering back with bags. I am a kind soul I know. I sat in the car, checking my reflection in the mirrors and was horrified to see just how red I was DESPITE the fact that I used so much darn sun screen. Dang red head, ivory skinned, blue eyed curse!

Chris was a saint picking up our supplies and he didn’t waste time in making new friends in this small town, bringing a stay elder gentlemen back to the car with him. The older Irish man was named John. He was very very nice, despite the fact he only had 3 teeth and kept looking at my boobs. I’m not sure if he was “all there”, lonely or just very friendly but he stayed and chatted for AGES! I had my window open and he stood there (next to Chris who wasn’t able to really excuse himself and escape to his side of the car) He asked question after question after question “how old are you?” “How many people in your family?” “How many children were in your parents’ family?” “How many children do you want?” “What do you do?” He was sweet though, he would repeat every answer you gave him after you which was amusing too. We chatted for ages in the heat, me slowly melting and I’m sure the milk he was holding was going off in the sun that beat down on us. We made at least 4 attempts to say goodbye before we actually got away, he wished us a life time of happiness and good health and that we have our desired number of children. Very kind sweet man. Also, upon hearing that we were only newly weds he shook Chris’ hand enthusiastically and then opened my car door to kiss me on both cheeks. He then bombarded us with “how long your parents been married for?” questions. He asked if Chris was being a good husband, I replied he was fantastic, John nodded and said “I can tell he is, you look happy, you have a bubbly face” I just hope that means friendly and not a truly round face. We bid him farewell and he said he hoped to see us in a few years when we return. I hope to see him too if we do, you could have a few pints with him, he was a harmless, interesting character who was just interested in getting to know you… and your boobs.

The caravan park we’re at tonight is nice, despite the fact they lied about their WIFI connection and ping pong tables. We had a BBQ for dinner and were eaten alive by midgies. My goodness they just devour you. We’ve put so much insect repellent on that we’re basically a walking can of the stuff but still they persist in chomping at us, and they hurt after awhile!! So, we shall sleep with all the windows shut tonight and with the covers pulled tight in hope of a restful nights sleep.



permalink written by  Chris and Emily on June 1, 2009 from Glengarriff, Ireland
from the travel blog: Europe 2009
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