Becoming A Dharma Bum

I have always been one for the simple life, but having just finished reading The Dharma Bums by Jack Kerouac, a great read for anybody who is interested, I was motivated to see just how basic a life I could live. And so with that in mind I hopped on the Llala, the ferry that services the lake, and set sail for a little place called Ruarwe.

The Approach to Zulunkhuni

It was my plan to camp here for two days before hiking back to civilisation, with the only catch being I had to be totally self sufficient during that time. Armed with my mbaula (African cooking stove), a healthy supply of food, and even healthier supply of charcoal and my tent I was ready to survive in a manner that is normal for so many people in Africa, yet alien to most of the western world.

Welcome To My Campsite

Before setting off I had seen a few pictures of where I was heading, but no amount of pictures could have prepared me for the natural beauty of Ruarwe and Zulunkhuni River Lodge. Charlie, the enigmatic owner, knew I wanted a spot where I could keep myself to myself, and he didn't fail to deliver. Tucked away at the top of the hill that Zulunkhuni is built at the bottom of is what can only be described as Malawi's most perfect camping spot.

One Happy Camper

Here there is no need for a tent, just a sense of adventure and a willingness to sleep under the stars. So without any hesitation I set-up my camp, which involved putting out my roll-mat and sleeping back before lighting a fire to cook lunch on. With no electricity at night my fire, and a temperamental old oil lamp were my only sources of light. Once they were out I was engulfed in an endless hole of darkness, consumed by the night sky until day break came to release me from its clutches.

The View To The Left Of My Bed

Lying in my bed I had two wonderful views, to my left I looked down to a series of waterfalls and to my right vast expanses of lake filled my field of vision. I often found myself lying there for hours at a time lost in a world of thoughts, mesmerised by what my eyes were seeing. It has taken me three months of my trip but finally I have discovered a way of life I could happily lead - just as in The Dharma Bums where the lead character embarks on a voyage living a life such as this.

Breakfast Is Served

From baking fresh orange oatcakes on my morning fire, to drifting away in my book with nothing but the sound of nature to keep me company I was as happy here as the proverbial pig in sh*t. There is something soothing to the soul falling asleep with the stars shining down on you and the flames of a fire gently licking you with their warm touch.

A Quiet Night In For A Dharma Bum

Society can keep its materialistic brainwashing for someone else, I will take a sleeping bag and be on my way to a happier existence than many chasing money will ever experience. It saddens me that so many people are carried away in a life they feel they should live, rather than having the courage to stand up and be different, to break free from the masses and live the life they want to, not the one society dictates they should.

Sunrise From My Bed

Due to that part of me wants everybody to have the chance to experience this place, but then a selfish thought pops into my mind that tells me to keep this a secret. For it is spots like this, unknown to nearly the entire world, that retain their magic and uniqueness by remaining a secret. So in that most won't be going here I am more than happy to share this little secret with you, just don't go telling anyone else.

Becoming A Dharma Bum

Ruarwe, Malawi