The Wild Goat Chase

By now I have learnt that the best laid plans in Africa are susceptible to being disrupted at the last minute, although when I was struck down with a throat infection I could not have wished for a better change in plans. Out went diving followed by a mini cycle tour, and in its place came a week at Chizumulu Island followed by diving - a better two weeks I could not have wished for.

The Leap Of Faith

Having met a trio of South Africans, who are riding through Africa on their bikes, it was off on the ferry headed to Chizumulu Island to experience a different side of Malawi. Situated on the Mozambique side of the lake the islands of Chizumulu and Likoma belong to Malawi and are, arguably, two of the countries most beautiful destinations - although we only managed to visit Chizumulu despite the best intentions of heading to Likoma as well.

Diving Activities

The problem, if you can call it that, with Chizumulu is that it is so relaxing that after three days there the idea of taking a two hour dhow ride across to Likoma seems like a lot of hard work. And thus our group, including a Phil Tuffnel and a Frank the Tank (Old School) look-a-like, spent five days enjoying the delights of Chizumulu and Wakwenda Retreat - which is every bit as delightful as the name itself.

Paus And Dave Battle It Out

With little more than relaxing, walking, volleyball and a host of card games for entertainment it was down to us to invent our own activities when we fancied something a little more challenging to do. Chief of all those extra activities was 'The Wild Goat Chase', which ended with one of the best meals I have eaten on this trip to date. It is worth mentioning at this point that Dave 'Frank the Tank' Gray may argue that night snorkelling was the best activity of the week.

Could This Be The Best Bar In The World?

Upon deciding we wanted a goat braai (BBQ for all you non-South Africans) we opted not to let William, Wakwenda's local barman-cum-goat slaughterer, get the goat, and instead went on the hunt ourselves. And by hunt I mean a walk around the island deciding which goat would suit our needs the best, not a fully fledged hunt armed with rifles and various traps as one may imagine a hunt to be like.

Meet Billie The Goat

After much browsing we settled on a plucky young male who was of a fair size, but not so big as to leave us with an excess of goat meat on our hands. Billie, as he became affectionately known in the hours leading up to his gruesome death, set us back a staggering £20, which when you consider he fed nine of us, plus two locals and four dogs (they took care of the bones!), is not a bad price.

Soon To Be Eaten By William

Despite my chicken killing exploits in Zambia I was not prepared to kill the goat, and having seen how William did it am extremely thankful I turned the chance down, opting to part with the head and testicles instead - William's price for killing and butchering Billie for us. Billie's demise may have been gruesome, leaving us all lost for words for a short while afterwards, but it wasn't so bad as to stop us from feasting on his succulent meat - which was delicious.

William's Price For The Butchering

There is something very satisfying about ripping goat meat of the bone with your teeth, although I am sure any vegetarian readers among you may wish to disagree with me on that point. Still for a meat lover such as myself a meal consisting of 90% goat meat and 10% rice is as good as it comes - if only they could have cut down on the rice it would have been a perfect meal.

A Feast Fit For A King

Billie Meets A Gruesome End

Goat braais aside the highlight of the week was the amazing sunsets, which were often observed from one of the purpose built sundowner decks around the bar. My trip has already thrown up some spectacular sun rises and sets, but I have to admit those we saw at Chizumulu were right up there with the best of them, as I think my pictures will prove.

As Happy As A Man Can Be

Sadly the week had to come to an end, although with diving to look forward to it was not the end of the world. It is safe to say there will be a return to the islands, next time I will muster the energy to head across to Likoma, maybe not on this trip but at some stage in the future.

Don't Let The Sun Go Down On Me

The Wild Goat Chase

Nkhata Bay, Malawi