Return to Thailand

We arrived back in Bangkok, with three & a half weeks remaining. Our whirlwind tour of Asia was due to end with time to revisit some of our favourite places, so everything was on schedule.

The famous Khao San Road...a hive of activity with tourists everywhere - with equal numbers of Thai locals looking to make some easy money.

We asked a tuk-tuk driver on Khao San Rd to take us to a busy bar area. He did not. We were wandering down empty streets in the North of the city when we stumbled upon a tiny bar located above a (then closed for the day) food court. We walked in just as the band were starting up for the night, so we stayed to check them out. We were pleasantly surprised!

The lead singer had many of the mannerisms of the legendary Tom Jones, & he even sounded very like him too! There weren't many other people in the bar, so Smalls & I were free to request to our hearts content - due to the average age of the band we were treated to some golden oldies (Beatles, Eagles, Van Morrison etc). The Sax player was pretty handy too! We stayed for the whole set & then returned to drink in the bustle bright lights of Khao San Road.

Some of you may remember that when we visited the islands off of the East coast of Thailand I managed to injure myself (Red Bull buckets + fire ropes/rings = bad things). That was just before we arrived on the chilled out haven that is Koh Tao, which is primarily visited for its excellent dive sites. Andy did his open water Scuba course while Smalls & I sat on the beach for three days (I coped). Therefore, as I had managed to stay injury free I decided it was time to get back there & do the PADI (Scuba Dive Qualification) myself.

I did my open water course with "Buddha View" dive school, located on a small beach on the southern tip of the island. It was placed away from the main beach & bars, so I was able to resist the temptations of evening activities (you shouldn't drink & dive!). My instructor was very good, the group were all lovely people (6 of us in total) & I thoroughly enjoyed it! As anyone who knows me is aware I was a swimmer for many, many years so it felt totally natural, for me, breathing underwater (with as much sense as that comment can achieve?!?). After my four full dives, the deepest being 22m, I had opened my eyes fully to the wonder of this activity. Some of the coral & its inhabitants are truly breathtaking. It is amazing to be able to be in amongst the fish & being able to truly study their graceful movements & varying behaviours. It is fair to say that after three days of diving I wanted more - although with less fundamental drills (covered in the course) & more wider exploration of the dive sites. More on that later...

After completing my PADI it was time to head back to Koh Phangan for our second full moon party. We were arriving the day before in order to catch up with Dixy & the lads from Bournemouth. We had first met Pete, Rich & Ben on the slow boat missions through Laos, & they had looked after Dixy for about a month (when we were following on behind - due to the Gibbon Experience in Laos). They are top quality lads with a sense of humour very much like our own, so needless to say it was good to meet up with them & share some more antics!

That night we went to the Thai Boxing on the island, before hitting the full moon warm up party on the beach. August is the busiest Full Moon party - due to all of the tourists from Europe on their Summer holidays. Therefore, the warm up party was as big as the Full Moon was that we first attended in June. Needless to say we had a good time.

For the whole of the next day we relaxed in one of the nearby resort's pool, before getting back on the beers & back down to the beach for the real thing. Andy's girlfriend, Rachael, & her friend Becca were on their holidays too, so they got involved. With all the people that we had met in Phangan, along with the established crowd, there was quite a crowd of us that hit the beach together that night. However, with thousands upon thousands of luminous painted party goers we were never going to stay as one group for long!

There were many, many funny/crazy photos taken that night (which some of you have seen...you know who you are), so I have decided to pick just a few...

A glorious group photo (at which point many buckets had been consumed)

The aforementioned "Buckets" - "...that Red Bull ain't right!"

Me (pulling a "fakie"), Dixy & Smalls (meditating perhaps?)

A "fakie" is when you manage to pull a ridiculous face in a photo pose, usually directed at someone, whilst they are unaware of you doing so. It is very immature, but the results are very amusing (if you are immature like us, I suppose!)

Other fakies during our time with the Bournemouth boys...

Busy?

Rach & Becca

With none of us having made it to bed until around 4pm the following afternoon we wrote the following day off as one for recovery. We had all had an awesome night & one we are unlikely to repeat too soon (if at all!). We (Smalls & I, Dixy was to remain with Rach) decided that we would tag along with the Bournemouth crew to the West coast of Thailand & the island of Phi Phi. So we all said our emotional goodbyes to Mr Andrew Dicks, who has been a stella travelling companion to all, before setting off on our 24hour journey - taxi to boat to bus to bus to boat to hotel room. I am not going to miss the "travelling" of travelling (although we always manage to have a laugh still). The hour & a half crossing from the mainland (Krabi) to Phi Phi was particularly amusing/terrifying, depending on your disposition, as the ocean swells & storm were really in full force. While there were many casualties to sea sickness, I am pleased to say that none of us were involved.

Phi Phi's main pier/boat port

Phi Phi is another beautiful island, as you can see. The warm, crystal clear waters & sandy beaches give the place its paradise image. The inner island is very small & cramped with bars & restaurants (thanks to the boom in tourism), but the surrounding beaches & small islands are all protected national parks, meaning it is only a short excursion to find some of Thailand's natural beauty.

Island of Phi Phi

We booked a half day/sunset tour of some of the more popular beaches & island around Phi Phi. We stopped off at monkey bay (where there were monkeys), did some snorkelling, jumped off of the top deck of our boat (a lot), kayaking, & finally stopped at Maya Bay - also known as "The Beach," made famous by the Leonardo Di Caprio film of the same name. The weather was gorgeous - incredibly hot, yet not humid. A quick dip in the cool(er) ocean was incredibly refreshing.

A cove on the other side of the beach

Maya - The "BEACH"

There's always time for a group shot...

& some "fakies"

"The" beach wasn't as stunning as I had anticipated, although I was probably expecting too much. On the film the waters are crystal clear & the sand is spotlessly clean. Thanks to the large number of tourists that frequent this beach that is no longer the case. Whilst Maya Bay is a protected national park, it does not stop the inevitable litter/spoiling that comes with human interference. The surrounding rock formations that make this bay a cove are truly spectacular though, & I think that it will take some determined individuals to ruin those!

Back on the boat we stopped to enjoy the sunset out at sea.

That evening was time for another emotional experience...saying our farewells to the Bournemouth boys. We did this in true traveling fashion & all went out to celebrate with some cocktails...

That night we managed to convince, a slightly inebriated, Pete that Thai boxing could wait for another time/life! Getting in the ring would have been impressive in itself! We all ended up dancing away on the beach late into the night.

We saw some pretty amusing signs on the island...

Ben, Pete & Rich have at least another 6months away together & will continue to have the time of their lives. It will be a happy occasion when we meet up with them again, in our old night out haunt of Bournemouth, for a catch up beer or two.

Due to our late retreat to our beds, coupled with Rich's alarm staying asleep, Smalls & I missed our 9am boat & bus to the Thai-Malaysian border. We managed to catch the afternoon boat & then the bus the following day. We had to go on a Visa run, as ours were due to expire in the next couple of days. It is free to leave the country & come back in (giving you a new 15day visa) but the Thai government charge ten pounds a day for every day you are over your visa allowance = great financial motivation to make the mission journey to the border. It is a crazy system, crossing a border & back again in a half hour whirlwind of forms, but them's the rules!

It was then that Smalls & I went our separate ways. We had agreed to make the most of the last of our time in Asia, so for me that meant going back to Koh Tao to do my Advanced PADI diving course. Smalls went off to Koh Samui to meet some of our female friends we had made back in Laos (ladies' man).

My mini-bus across Thailand was full. When we reached the East coast everyone but myself got a transfer to a Bangkok bound bus, leaving the driver to take me the 200kms down the coast to the port for Koh Tao (Champuon). I was slightly worried when as soon as we pulled away together the driver popped a DVD into the player in the front of the mini bus! Thankfully he kept his eyes on the road, although I had to endure his choice of "Death Race" (an awful Jason Statham movie about convicts racing to the death!). The movie's soundtrack & sound effects may have inspired a faster journey though!

I arrived in Koh Tao (above), after the night boat, at 5am. I wandered the streets & waited for the dive schools to open. This time I was staying up at Sairee Beach, which is the "busier" area on the island. Koh Tao is incredibly chilled out, which is why I liked it so much (certainly in comparison to Phangan & Samui). My dive school this time was "Asia Divers."

The resort itself is a 5min walk from the beach but it is very nice. The pool was especially appreciated as the whole four days I was there it was in the mid 30's oC! On my first evening I met my instructor, Hayley, & we planned my next two days of diving. The basic skills of diving are covered in the open water, so the advanced course is geared towards specific activities/uses for scuba diving. One of the options was Photography (something that I have always had an interest in). Whilst it cost an extra 30pounds to hire the camera & casing for the day (including pics on a DVD) I think all will agree it was well worth it...

Thankfully I didn't have any issues with equalising the pressure in my ears whenever I descended

Catfish

...time for your close up

A Blue Spotted Stingray - they can be found all over the ocean floor after dark. Thankfully we spotted this one under a rock during the day

Yes, those are fish, thousands of them!

My "artistic" streak...

The most annoying fish in the ocean...the Cleaner Wrasse. Although they appear very pretty they nip away at any exposed dead skin, so being a victim of many mosquito bites I was particularly popular with these fish. They don't hurt, they're just simply annoying!

Christmas tree worms are brilliant fun! When ever you get too close they snap away into the their coral base...this never got old for me! They're colourful too

Who likes diving...

The most challenging fish to spot amongst the coral = the Scorpion fish

Q: How many fish want their picture taken with me?

It isn't only the fish that are engaging - some of the coral structures & colours were mesmerizing...

Hayley found evidence of the negative human influence on the ocean

Trigger fish: they are very big & very territorial. If you get too close to them the fin on the top of their body stands up & they attack - usually stealing a diver's fins

I have saved my favourite underwater picture for last - that of the Pink Anemone Fish. I surprised myself with how well some of my pictures came out!

My fifth & final dive of the course (9th in total) was a night dive. We headed out in the early evening, for the third dive of the day, and enjoyed the sunset.

My instructor, Hayley, & I had a good laugh together diving. I was her only student & proficient enough for her to be able to relax & show me some cool underwater inhabitants. This is us kitted up & ready for the night dive...

Whilst Scuba diving gives you that curious weightless feeling, being suspending in the water, doing in the dark is other worldly! There are far more crustaceans out on the coral & sea bed at night, so we saw lots of crabs. It is eerily cool to scope the underwater world with your torch. As you are sweeping you are constantly surprised by what is swimming around you, & how many fish there are so close to you! I have to say that diving was one of my favourite activities from my whole trip & I can clearly see how so many can become addicted to the activity & the lifestyle that goes with it.

My final day in Koh Tao was spent soaking up the beach. I have spent a lot of the last 7/8 months on the beach & I still believe it gets better everytime. I know that some of these pictures are going to spark some intense daydreaming when I am next stuck behind a desk. Beaches everywhere...I am going to miss you terribly so :'-(

Our final Asian stop is Bangkok, for the third & final time, where Smalls & I again reunited.

With three days to spend in Bangkok we decided to make the most of what was left of our Asian adventure. So, I googled local water parks & we were off for a day in the sun & sliding activity. However, when we got to the park we realised that the information I had obtained online was less than accurate - they only had two slides! Both were okay. The park could boast (& did with many signs) to having the world's Guinness book of records largest wave pool...WOW :-O
We made the most of the situation by enjoying some cold beers in the jacuzzi & then lounging around in glorious sunshine. The real world is going to be one massive shock to us!

That evening we were delighted to watch England's cricketers creep ever closer to beating the Aussies in the Ashes. The Aussie's final innings is underway as I type this. Both Smalls & I hope, like all Englishmen, that we win it - especially seeing as we have made so many Australian friends on our travels :-)

The next day we dedicated to making the most of the Thai prices by visiting the Chatachuk Market. This place is HUGE! There are over 10,000 stalls selling all kinds of weird & wondeful stuff. You can buy anything from a pillow case cover to a puppy (due to the poor conditions of their enclosures I decided not to get any pics...they were still cute though!). I managed to get some bargain t-shirts &jeans, amongst other necessity items - such as trainers (it will be very strange to put on socks & shoes after over 3months in flip flops!).

When we returned to the Khao San Road area that evening the skies began to turn. I headed to the hotel while Smalls went off to find some more bargains at the nearby stalls. I think he wishes he hadnt bothered now! The heavens opened, so all the stalls shut up as quickly as possible, then the streets became totally flooded in a matter of minutes! Smalls told me that as soon as it was clear the drains were blocking up all of the rats & cockroaches headed for higher ground by any means - including climbing up people! I am glad to say that I was dry & content in our room :-) We were lucky that we could make it around the corner from our hotel to watch the football in a nearby restaurant...we couldn't miss that because of a little rain!

After our last night out (which finished at 4am after a sheesha session) we got up late, then I made my way to Bangkok's biggest shopping centre. The picture on the left is of a statue located outside the shopping centre...I have no idea what it is in aid of or what message it is trying to portray?!

The shopping centre is massive. It is incredibly similar to any you would find in the Western world, although there is a market at the end of the building. Here you can find most of the goods from the proper shops at a massively reduced price...a very odd setup. I managed to find the majority of what I was looking for, however I can advise that the Thais do not cater for people of my height when it comes to shirts!

I have just checked our flight out of Bangkok to Heathrow & everything is in order, thankfully. We are both looking forward to some relatively comfortable travel (flying BA) after all of the discomfort we have endured on our travels. I have to say that it has all been well worth it though! Asia is a fantastic place & each country that we have visited has had something different to offer. There are a few places that I would like to come back to (Thai islands & Vietnam especially) but I would recommend everywhere I have been (except maybe Kuala Lumpur...I wasn't a fan). There shall be no great reflections in this blog entry, because there will be a "home coming" & Reading Festival entry to finish off the year's adventure. I am incredibly excited by the thought of seeing all of my family & friends - it seems like a lot longer than a year I have been away! Mr Byron Smith & Mr Christopher Oughton will be meeting us at Heathrow tomorrow morning...and I can't wait!!! :-)

written by

johnnoble on August 18, 2009 from Bangkok, Thailand

from the travel blog: John's year off...

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Thank you for sharing your adventures with us. Travel safely home and see you SOON. Mum xxxx

written by Jan Noble on August 23, 2009

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