The Pelni experience

Getting from Borneo to Sulawesi, the next island to the east, isn't as easy as one might think. There aren't any direct flights, even though there are airports all over the islands. Michael, Sebastian and I could have flown from eastern Sabah (the northern province in Borneo) west to Kuala Lumpur, then doubled back and flown east over where we'd been to eventually get to our destination. However, we like to consider ourselves intrepid, and have to consider ourselves poor. So, we hopped south across the border to the Indonesian side of this massive island and embarked on a 34-hour sea voyage on the "Bukit Rinjani," one of the gigantic ferries operated by Indonesian company Pelni.

We rode in economy class, not entirely dissimilar to a sober version of steerage class in the movie "Titanic." We're not really that hard-core; we didn't realize that you can only buy tickets in semi-private "class" cabins at actual Pelni offices, not agents' offices, and there wasn't a Pelni office in Nunukan. It turned out to be a lot of fun and a great experience, but it was some of the most intense traveling we've done.

I should note that, unlike our usual entries, I am writing this particular blog note with the main goal of helping other backpackers who might be google-ing this route. Here is my advice: first, as with all experiences in life, keep a good sense of humor and you'll enjoy yourself much more. Also, keep handy the things that help you sleep (you know, IPOD, earplugs, eye mask, motion sickness pills...) Lock everything else away. I'd heard that, but didn't lock my shoes up and someone stole them. They were good quality hiking sandals and I miss them. I mean, who steals SHOES? Oh well, I should have been more careful.

I mentioned motion sickness pills. Actually, the boat is so massive you don't feel any movement. I get seasick, but not at all on this ship. I only took the pills at night to knock me out.

Also, I have no problem using bathrooms of varying standards - I've spent too much time in Asia to be a germophobe - but these take the cake. On our second day aboard we came to the realization that, being the only foreigners on the 2000-person ferry, we automatically had some sort of special exemption from the normal rules. Use the second class bathrooms and showers! Go to the upper decks as much as possible. STAY THERE when you hear the announcement that directs everyone to their seats for the ticket check or they'll lock you (along with all the other economy passengers) below deck until they're done inspecting everyone's tickets. That's right: they lock people in, Titanic-style, several times for an hour or more each.

And, my final piece of advice: bring food. Peanut butter, bread, tuna and crackers, fruit ... whatever you like, just stock up before you get to Nunukan. The crew supplies everyone in economy with prepared meals, but even the rice is inedible. Alternatively, you could live off of Ramen noodles that you buy on board. I don't know about the stuff at the restaurants, but don't eat the free food.

Now that I've scared everyone off, I really want to express that I'm so glad we had the Pelni experience. It's the true, authentic sort of travel that connects you with the locals and hones your Bahasa Indonesia. There was an arcade, a snack bar on the top deck where people sang their hearts out to karaoke dvds, and all sorts of fun, hidden places. You can explore the levels and find all the outside places of peace and quiet, and just stare out for miles and miles across the ocean. I didn't see any dolphins, you might, but I saw the most amazing flying fish that could actually fly for several minutes.

Anyway, I recommend the journey. Have fun!

written by  katieandmichael on August 4, 2009 from Nunukan, Indonesia
from the travel blog: Katie and Michael's Travel Blog
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