Malawi Here We Come...Again

As they say every cloud has a silver lining, and despite Matt heading back home Alena had returned back to Africa, much to my delight, and thus we set off from Dar es Salaam headed back to Malawi. Having done this journey before I thought I knew what to expect, but nothing could have prepared me for just how bad it was.

Welcome to a little bit of camping paradise

When you book a seat with a reputable bus company, running from one major city to another, you, hardly surprisingly, expect to get just that - the first rule of travelling in Africa, always expect the unexpected (which you would have thought I would have learnt by now). You can imagine the look of horror on our faces then when, at 4am, we arrived at the bus depot to find a glorified mini-bus waiting for us.

The lake's finest oarsman...or so I'm told

Fourteen long, arduous hours later and we had, finally, arrived at the border crossing where the day went from bad to worse. Rather than taking us all the way to Mzuzu in Malawi we were told, approaching 9.30pm, that this was the end of the line for the day and that a different bus would take us into Malawi in the morning. Smelling a rat we pressed the issue a little, although the arrival of several police officers, including a rather senior official, forced us to accept the situation.

One way on, and one way off

It turned out we were on a bus full of illegal immigrants, and the police had arrived to collect their bribes before taking them over the border under the cover of darkness - for anyone who thought otherwise, corruption is rife in Africa and this such example is just the tip of the iceberg. So that was that, we would have to sleep the night at the border and make alternative travel arrangements in the morning, or risk disturbing the police accepting bribes - rule two in Africa, never interfere with officials and their bribes (that I have learnt, the hard way too).

Welcome to first class on the Llala

Once back in Nkhata Bay the only thing on our minds was a few days relaxing before taking the ferry over to the islands. I must say, despite all its faults the Llala has been, to date, my favourite means of transport on my travels. From climbing aboard when the lower decks are too busy to fight your way through, to the cheapest (edible) food in Malawi, to sleeping under the stars it has spades of character and is an experience to behold.

A bed fit for a king

The highlight of our time on the islands was, without a doubt, the visit to the cathedral on Likomo (although the goat slaughter pushed it all the way, but that's due to the caveman in me). What amazed me was that it is southern Africa's largest cathedral, and yet it is out on this remote island where few get to appreciate its splendour. Sadly we were not there for a service, as with three choirs and a packed congregation it is said to be quite a spectacle.

A spot of fishing out on the lake

In keeping with the African spirit of transport the ferry, reported to have problems with its steering, had been cancelled and thus we were left in a slight predicament. The options were simple, stay on the islands for another week, or find an alternative boat back to mainland. The answer was even simpler, find another boat as staying on the islands may have resulted in insanity - as beautiful as the islands are they are not exactly the heart of adventure and activity in Malawi.

The Llala offloading passengers

And so began the worst journey of my life, one where at least twice I thought I was doomed to become fish food. Our chosen boat, which was our only option, should have carried about twenty passengers but sensing the chance to make some easy money the skipper decided forty-one would be a much better number. All I can say is thank heavens Chizumulu lay in between Likomo, our start point, and mainland, as if not I honestly think the boat would have sunk.

Alena with her new friends at Chizumulu

The swell was such that no sooner had we set off than the boat was swaying from side to side, water coming in occasionally and more than a few shouts and prayers to God and Jesus. When the locals, who are used to the lake, start worrying you know things are bad. Thankfully a two hour stop at Chizumulu allowed the swell to calm somewhat and we were able to continue, for close to six hours, chugging back to Nkhata Bay, which is where this chapter ends. So be sure to join me for the next chapter of adventure from Africa as Alena and myself indulge in some diving and fishing before heading back towards Tanzania.

Inside the Cathedral of St Peter

Welcome to Likoma

Malawi Here We Come...Again

Nkhata Bay, Malawi