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South of the South Island - Te Anau thru The Catlins

Te Anau, New Zealand


The south of the South Island...vistas extraordinaire! We saw absolutely stunning scenery as we walked tracks, drove back-roads and cruised inland waters in and around Te Anau, Milford Sound and the Catlins.

The summer crowds had long deserted Te Anau, leaving its lakefront and surrounding parks empty. It is still a jumping off spot however for tramping the many tracks dotted with DOC huts and this keeps the local hostels busy before winter grips the mountains. We were hostelling newbies and so we learned a few things about communal living right away. To no surprise, many young travellers still think that, just like at mom and dad's, elves and pixies clean the kitchen while they sleep!

Te Anau's lakefront walk includes a bird sanctuary that houses several threatened species. It was sad to learn that so many birds unique to New Zealand have become extinct since the arrival of man, particularly Europeans. The remaining species are under constant threat of attack from ferrets, stoats, rats, mice and feral cats, in addition to habitat damage by possums, deer, feral goats and pigs, and habitat loss by man. No mammals, save a small bat, existed in New Zealand before man arrived. Conservation groups are making efforts across the country though to protect remaining species and their habitats. It's been an ongoing battle for over a century and progress is always fragile.

The drive to Milford Sound is an exceptional experience in its own right. Lakes, forests, valley floors and mountain ranges continually change shape and color. The beauty of the areas through to Milford was breathtaking. Clear blue skies and bright sun certainly contributed to the experience! Later, our guide aboard the Milford Sound cruise advised, with a chuckle, that we would see few waterfalls because it hadn't rained for the past five days and the area was in a drought! The Sound was still spectacular with its massive rock walls towering high overhead and calm seas. We were able to steam out onto the unusually gently rolling South Tasman Sea before turning back into the Sound for the return leg.

We moved further south to Invercargill after four wonderful days in Te Anau. Urged by fellow travellers and my NZ family, we hired a car and left the city to tour the Catlins.

Their descriptions of the area were understated and we are challenged to give an account that gives the Catlins justice. Deserted beaches, massive headlands, wide expanses of rolling grazing lands dotted with sheep, thick rich forests, rivers...and peaceful solitude! We filled four days with beach and forest tramps, wildlife spotting and getting use to driving on the 'wrong' side of the road. We even stood at the most southerly point of the South Island and felt the winds from Antartica on our faces.

We didn't get to Stewart Island, which lies off the south of the main island, due to poor weather. Tossing around in a water taxi for 90 minutes and knowing that the heavy rain would all but silence the renown birdlife made our decision to leave that trip for a return visit to NZ.

The south of South and its extraordinary vistas can be summed up in one simple word..."Wow!"


permalink written by  Shane & Norma on April 30, 2009 from Te Anau, New Zealand
from the travel blog: "Not Just Another Rugby Tour" - New Zealand, Samoa and Australia
tagged MilfordSound, TeAnau and TheCatlins

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