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Siguniang Shan

a travel blog by Jakeb


Traveling to the Sichuan province of China to climb Siguniang Shan, and then travel until we run out of money.
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First posting!!

Chengdu, China


We've been here in Chengdu for a few days now, holy shit its hot! Chengdu is a pretty nice city; I dont have much to compare it to yet, but besides being 100 degrees, humid, and smoggy its quite nice. It has a lot of character especially if you get off the main streets - and the food is absolutely amazing, and amazingly spicy. We've been doing a lot of planning and organizing for our trip to Rilong in the mountains, but everything takes twice as long as usual. A trip to the bank to flip bills can end up taking an hour or so - lots of paperwork. We hope to be out of here by friday morning, thats Thursday night for you east coasters.
We were very worried when we returned to our hostel one day and heard the road to Rilong has been closed due to construction. Nothing like flying halfway around the world to find out you cant travel the last 6 hours!! Luckily there is another way around, and instead of 6 hours it'll be more like 11 or 12. It's alright, we'll get there and breathe some clean air and maybe see blue sky. We went for a run the other night, and it probably was worse for our lungs - and I probably shouldn't have run in my TNF sneakers that have a half shank in them, but it was all i had. Once we get up to Rilong we need to pick up our climbing permit (takes 7 days - costs $750 USD), submit our climbing itenerary, find a liason officer (he comes to camp 1 with us - costs about $30-40 USD per day - and thats for our entire trip), and organize horses and porters for the hike up (real cheap! thank god). This certainly will take a big bite out of our budget for the entire trip out here, but it will be worth it, its what we came here for anyway.
I've got lots more to tell everyone because this is the first day I've been able to post anything, and I have a lot of pictures I will be adding too. However, I'm not sure when my next chance will be to post, but I'll try my best.


permalink written by  Jakeb on August 22, 2007 from Chengdu, China
from the travel blog: Siguniang Shan
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Rilong at last

Chengdu, China


Hey everyone, so we finally made it up to rilong the other day, however I am writing this from Xiou Jin where there is internet and phones to call internationally. The bus ride from Chengdu was soooo long, it took about 17 hours in total - thats longer than our flight across the pacific. We had stopped once for about an hour because of an accident ahead, then several more times for who knows why. I sat next to a tibetan monk who even though he spoke no english was very nice and wanted to share some of his food with me, I shared my ipod with him for a bit too. The bus took us to Xiou Jin where Maki (owner of our hostel in Chengu) arranged for us to be picked up by a taxi to take us to Rilong. We asked her how the driver would pick us out when we arrived - she said it would be easy - we're the only white people in the whole city.
Rilong is up at about 10,000 ft. so yesterday we went for a hike to help acclimatize. We ended up walking up the valley outside of town to the foot of Siguniang - it was beautiful but we couldn't see the summit because it was shrouded in clouds. We did end up hiking about 10 miles or so though, and we all felt very strong given we were in chengdu the day before. Along the trail there were many places to stop and eat in little tibetan style shacks, and we got some very delicious and very cheap food. Tomorrow we will be going up that same valley and climbing the smallest of the four maidens - daguniang shan, which is 5,025m or about 16,000 ft. We will spend 2 days doing that to help acclimatize, then take 2 days off, and then its on to Siguniang!!! Right now we are looking at spending about 15 days up on Siguniang. However, there is a Korean team climbing it right now who are setting fixed lines up it, and we are hoping to catch them while they are still up there - or maybe have them leave the lines for us to use. If we are that lucky than the climb will go much faster and much more safely. So we're keeping our fingers crossed.
We'll be back here after our climb up daguniang shan and before siguniang shan so I might be able to post again then, but no promises. After that it will be a couple weeks before I'm back in any kind of city, so I will have much to tell.


permalink written by  Jakeb on August 25, 2007 from Chengdu, China
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back in Xiao Jin

Chengdu, China


So we've left Rilong for good on this trip, it turns out that we are not going to climb Siguniang shan right now. It has been one of the warmest seasons they've had and there is very little snow and practically no ice. We met up with a polish climbing team in Rilong looking to put up a first ascent on one of the big walls in the area, but they were also turned back by rockfall and poor conditions. Right now there would be no real safe way up the moutain, and we brought with us more gear to climb ice and not enough for long rock sections. The costs for the climb have also just kept growing, we feel as though we are getting hustled a lot of the time. We will return though in more wintery conditions, and we're hoping that the friends we made there in charge of mountain climbing will let us climb without having to pay for another permit ($750 lost this time around).
Good news is that we did make it up Daguniang shan (16,000ft) in order to acclimatize. Both Rhys and Marjie got a little altitude sickness up at Camp 1 (14,500ft.) but were able to pull it together and climb all the way, they just had a bit of that morning sickness you can get at altitude.
So we will be heading back to Chengdu in 2 days, where we will probably be splitting up for different destinations. Rhys is going to help me get a job on a sailboat, racing and such in the south China sea. Most likely i will just be grinding wenches because that takes no skill. It shouldnt be too hard to find a spot either because i wont be getting paid - maybe just with food, but really its for the adventure.
I'll post again in a few days after we're back in Chengdu, i'll also be able to post some pictures from the mountains then!


permalink written by  Jakeb on August 28, 2007 from Chengdu, China
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Back in Chengdu

Chengdu, China


Sorry this didnt post at first, its a bit old now - but I will post a more recent one in the next few days.


We are back in Chengdu now, and thankfully the weather has improved greatly. It had been raining for a few days so the temperature dropped, and the smog and pollution cleared enough to see blue sky and even some stars at night. After leaving Rilong we spent a full day in Xiou Jin, so far my favorite place on this trip. Everyone we met there was unbelievably nice and generous. We hit up some tibetan shops while we were there, and ended up getting a tour from a women and her 3yr. old daughter of the entire city (fairly small but quite nice). She took us to some cool little shops, and was able to get us cheaper prices on the souveneirs we were buying - usually it gets marked up for a foreigner. After that we met some local girls in the internet cafe we were using and they told us to meet back up with them at 7 to go to a performance later that night. We met them at 7 with some of their friends and were brought to a large schoolyard and stage where the entire town (maybe 2 or 3 thousand) were congregating. At about 8 the performance started which included various kinds of dancing and singing from around the world (indian, tibetan, and yes even some breakdancing). We watched for an hour or two enjoying pears that people sitting nearby insisted on sharing with us. We then cut out early because one of the girls we were with had a father who was in charge of a church - now turned museum, where Mao himself slept in (we saw a set of his clothes folded on a table) along with 3 other high ranking officials. It was closed for the night, but she was able to get the keys and we went in and explored it with just flashlights. Our new friends were able to explain the whole history behind it, showing us pictures of various important people and explaining which ones they liked, and which they didn't. After that just Rhys and I went on with them to get some food, and we ate pile after pile of various meats and veggies on kebabs (even a little duck tongue and chicken stomach), and of course they insisted on paying for everything. When we got back to the room we heard our other friend, who gave us the tour earlier that morning, had stopped by with some gifts of silk scarves and a book of pictures of the mountains. I guess its pretty easy finding which room we were staying in given we were again the only white people in town. The following morning we were catching the 7 o'clock bus back to Chengdu and were met by the two girls and two of their friends at 6:30am with a gift of some green and red tea to see us off.
Now that I'm back in Chengdu I'm planning the next part of my trip. Rhys decided to go home early because he missed Lindsay so much, so that put an end to any more climbing until thailand this winter. Marjie is going off to Mongolia soon, and it looks like I will be heading south. I just got an email from my cousin with a recomendation of contacting a magazine that is starting this winter about travel and leisure in south east asia. They are looking for freelance photographers and writers to contribute to the first issue of their magazine. So I will be trying to get in touch with them to see if they would be interested at all in my plans of trying to work on some sailboats out of Hong Kong. So I'm keeping my fingers crossed about that, I'll be taking tons of picures anyway so why not see if they would like some of them!
Sorry I havent been able to post anymore pictures, I never seem to have my USB cords and cameras at the same time when i do get to a computer. Feel free to keep in touch (brigham10@msn.com) it's great to hear news of how people are doing back in the states!

permalink written by  Jakeb on September 1, 2007 from Chengdu, China
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Kunming

Kunming, China


So i haven't posted in quite some time now. I guess a lot has happened. After staying in Shenzhen for awhile I got a bit stir crazy and decided to head to Kunming. I was offered a job to work for a company called Wild China that does guiding all throughout China. But believe it or not I turned it down because of a craving and real want to go back to school. I plan on doing a little bit more travelling while i'm still out here, and then it's back to the states. I have been hanging out here in Kunming for about a week now seeing the sights, and experiencing unfortunately quite a bit of rain.
So now with funds running low I've decided to go on one last little adventure, and so tomorrow I will be flying down to Bangkok, and then to Phuket where i will spend a few days. then i will most likely head to the pair of phi phi islands that are just a short ferry ride away. here i will be able to do a lot of climbing, hopefully i'll be able to meet up with people already there. There is also a lot of snorkeling off beautiful beaches where their famous for reef sharks (too little to worry about attacking you). You most likely have seen the beaches at the smaller of the phi phi islands because that is where they filmed the movie 'the beach'. but then after Thailand i will be flying back to the west coast briefly, then to philly to say hi to everyone, however I will be then returning out west to look for a job and a college.
See you soon!


permalink written by  Jakeb on September 29, 2007 from Kunming, China
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