Go west, then go west some more.

An early rise to get ourselves showered breakfasted and packed prior to a quick call to Tom to wish him a happy birthday, then a call to Zoe to complete our brief chat on Friday. After saying goodbye to our hostess, Debbie, we were on the road again, this time to our first port of call at Athabasca Falls. We chose not to use the new Icefields Parkway but the old one which is a bit more windy and more picturesque as well as more switchback, speed limited and more peaceful. We stopped at Lake Leach, beautifully clear and still and very peaceful. Small fry were swimming in huge numbers in the shallows. The last 8 km were on a quite poor surface but took us directly to Athabasca Falls. (Engage superlative vocabulary mode – will not engage, already exhausted).

Sunwapta Falls

Once again the huge power of the water as it tumbled over ledges and rocks, carving a channel through rock that doesn't want to give way, allowing only the narrowest of passages and pouring foaming into the basin beneath was absolutely breathtaking. Neither words nor photos can do it justice, thank goodness for Sue's movie facility which at least manages to make a credible effort.

Sunwapta falls

Back on the road and off to Sunwapta Falls just off the main Icefields Parkway; I did not find this part of the much trumpeted parkway delivered as much as we had experienced on our alternative route. The falls are again spectacular; we were able to follow the course of the falls for some way down with the inevitable climb back up again! We found a lovely picnic table here at the top of the falls and had our lunch with the falls roaring in the background.

Off again down the Icefields Parkway and the scenery started to become dramatic again, making you realise what an insignificant item you are in the huge landscape. As we neared the Columbia Icefields Centre, it became really spectacular.

On the Athabasca Glacier

Our trip onto the Athabasca glacier was mind numbing – quite literally as there was an icy wind created by the cold air rushing down from the icefields above to the valley below. There is a bus that takes you about a mile to a transfer station where the huge six wheeled icecoaches wait to take you down a steep gradient to the surface of the glacier. They then trundle along the glacier for about a mile before unloading you on to the surface itself.

The tour bus, Athabasca glacier

15 minutes of gingerly walking on the icy surface seeing at first hand just how grubby ice can be when it has picked up bits of rock, tasted the pure water of the melting ice in the little rivulets running off the surface and taking photographs in an attempt to retain the scene left me feeling both elated and exhausted.

The guide gave us a fascinating commentary both on the way up and on the way back, so much so that I can remember very little of the detail.

Ice tour bus, Athabasca Glacier

Apparently, the ice is 300 feet thick at the point at which we stopped and there is something like 30 feet of snow each winter. The ice roadway on which the coaches travel has to be recreated each year by snow blowers, bulldozers and so on and has to be renewed twice a day. At the lower end of the approach to the glacier, there are 2 streams; one clear, the other cloudy but both from the Athabasca. The clear stream is the product of snow melt from the previous winter and the cloudy is ice melt from the glacier carrying 'rock flour' – fine particle rock debris. The glacier is of course retreating like all others where there is less snowfall than snowmelt and there are little markers to show where it was at at particular time. It has retreated 1.5 km in the last 150 years, which means 10 metres a year by my calculations.

Ice road back to the transfer station

After getting back to the car we took a trip to the car park about ½ mile from the foot of the glacier and walked to the foot. It was a steep climb but worth the effort. Apparently every year, there are people killed by walking on the glacier; the foot is a particularly unstable area and people fall through crevasses and ice bridges, either being severely injured or killed, either immediately by the fall or later by hypothermia. At the foot there are rivers of melt water and people trying to get onto to the foot can find the instability will cause then to loose footing and slip into the water. They are unlikely to survive the effect of hypothermia. All this is spelled out in notices at the foot with clearly marked boundaries. This didn't stop a lot of people chancing their luck!

Crevasses being braved by brainless people at the foot of the glacier

If I were the park authorities, I would make it clear that NO rescue attempt would be made if people chose to ignore the warnings; such genes are frankly better out of the pool! The message was rammed home by a note that in the last 3 attempts to rescue people the individual had died. Needless to say, we didn't attempt it!

Back in the car again, we enjoyed the spectacular drive to Saskatchewan River Crossing and our motel room for the night. We had intended to visit another falls on the way but missed the turning – oh well – there's always next time!!!!

Slight frustration at the motel – wifi only available at reception and at $7 for 40 minutes!! We declined the offer.

written by

rickandsuejohnson on August 17, 2010 from Lake Louise, Canada

from the travel blog: Go west, then go west some more.

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Banff, Canada

Motel Rooms, Saskatchewen River Crossing resort, Mountains behind

After our supper of Buffalo Burger and Salad at 'The Crossing Pub' we popped into the on-site shop to check whether we would be able to buy milk for breakfast. Rick wants me to mention that he cooked the burgers to perfection on an indoor barbecue – a novel way of doing things there, you cook your own food.

Mistaya Canyon

Predictably, as we discovered when doing the research for the night's stopover, this is literally the only place to stay on the Parkway en route between Jasper and Lake Louise so the prices for everything reflect this. The accommodation here was the most expensive for our holiday and the most basic. Nevertheless we both slept like logs.

Up at 7.30 am and whilst Rick was showering I popped down to the shop, bought the milk and got the coolbag from the car ready for our alfresco breakfast. I obviously wasn't as rested as I thought as I sat for 15 minutes outside someone else's cabin thinking I had locked myself out, only to discover my error when Rick poked his head round the door two cabins up to see where I had got to – Better not be the one to drive this morning then!!

Sculpted rock at Mistaya Canyon

Our first stop was a Mistaya Canyon, another place where a river, this time the one fed by Peyto Lake, sculpts its way through the rock. At 9.30 am in the morning there was only one other car parked and the sun was trying to burn its way through a veil of mist draped over the surrounding mountains as we made our way down to the valley floor. Four young people were perched on the edge of the canyon as we approached, despite the numerous warning signs to keep to the paths. As we were about to make our way back, a Park Warden suddenly appeared. He had been surveying trees in the area and commented on the stupidity of the young people. They get 3-4 deaths here every year from people slipping in and he says you can go up and warn them but they just ignore the advice.

Mistaya Canyon - impossibly small gap for river seen between planks

He thinks a time will come when the government close trails like this as, believe it or not, people themselves or their relatives try and sue the Park following an accident, even if it is they who have ignored the warnings! He showed us an example of a tree infected with pine beetle and chatted about the natural cycle of the forest. I asked him if he knew anywhere in the area where we might see Moose. He recommended trying Waterfowl Lakes, where there is a large area of marshland that they graze early in the morning or at sunset. We hoped, it being rather gloomy, that the Moose might be fooled by the actual time of day – no such luck.

Not so peaceful river flowing from Wildfowl lake

The first stop off took us through woodland to a bridge crossing a swift flowing river; the second led to the marshy area – predictably a favourite spot for mossies! Took several photos of wild flowers while we were there.

Glacier toe, Lake Peyto

On to Bow Summit and Peyto Lake. The car park was just under a kilometre to the lake with two access trails – well one was a paved road up to the disabled car park. By accident we took this route. On the way down, via the scenic route, we realised that the paved route up hadn't been a bad option – it was much less steep. The lake was a beautiful blue, fed from the Peyto Glacier.

Lake Moraine

On past Bow Lake to Lake Louise. As we needed to be at Banff between 4.00 pm and 5.00 pm to check in to our B&B, we decided to check out nearby Morraine Lake in the hope that the haze would would clear for a day around Lake Louise itself tomorrow with a ride on the Gondola there. The Morraine Lake road is 14 kms from Lake Louise with a steady climb all the way there. What a beautiful place and once we left the area immediately beside the car park and made our way along the shore line footpath there were very few other people. Yet more glaciers feeding the lake with glacier flour and turning the water a deep blue.

Time being short to make the 5.00 pm deadline to our B&B we took Highway 1 to Banff, checked in and, upon our hostess's recommendation went to Bumpers Grill. It being Banff most of the menu was rather expensive and rather more in quantity than we wanted so we both went for a middle of the road, 'Canadian Stew'. Only our Canadian family will be able to tell us whether or not it was authentic! Beef in a spicy sauce with carrots, peas and potatoes – very tasty.

Bear behind in the bushes

Our hostess had also recommended a drive on the Lake Minnewanka loop for a chance of spotting wildlife at dusk. We set off and not too far down the road two cars were parked up. Could it be something? Well yes it was. Our first and only sighting of a Grizzly Bear on the opposite side of the road in the undergrowth about 50 yards from the road!!! Unfortunately a car arrived on the bear's side of the road. The driver jumped out, swiftly followed by two children and obscured Rick's line for a photo. As the children were excited and making a lot of noise the bear understandably took off. Rick was only able to snap his rear end as he disappeared. As the bear clambered over a fallen tree to escape, you got an idea of this size – far bigger than the Black Bear we had seen a few days previously. We were so lucky to see it.

Lake Johnson

Lake Minnewanka was another impressive sight. We took a quick walk by the shore, motored back to see if Mr Grizzly had returned and then completed the loop, stopping at Two Jacks Lake. As we drove down to park, Rick spotted two Big Horn Sheep and, on the lake a Common Loon dipping for its supper. Last stop Lake Johnson, for obvious reasons and then back to Squirrel's Nest B&B to catch up on blogging.

Banff, Canada

Going Up

So here's the deal..............we pop over to Lake Louise to go up in the gondola for some marvellous views, go back to Lake Louise and have a picnic en-route then have a nice walk along the lake. We should be coming back late afternoon, so we'll take the old parkway road which is apparently more scenic and we may see some moose or elk in the meadows there. OK – but of course it didn't quite pan out like that Wild animals have the irritating habit, I have discovered, of hiding until they are sure that you are totally unprepared then popping out, winking at you and then disappearing, leaving you with a shot of their rear end – if you're lucky. Except, that is the little charmers that are ground squirrels and chipmunks, who pose with style to shame Kate Moss but with less attitude.

Mummy Grizzly, cub nearby

Our day was bright and sunny and relatively clear. So off we went. Our gondola was not so much a traditional cabin, more of a bench attached to some poles hanging off a bit of wire. (All run by Aussies it seemed – perhaps it is a job requirement?) This of course was much better for photo opportunities should they occur down below – and occur they did. A grizzly bear mum and her cub were enjoying the late morning sunshine snacking on some buffalo berry bushes about ¼ of the way up the run almost immediately underneath the chair. Fortunately someone going the other way told us and this time we were prepared! We got some good shots between us.

Eagle (?) over mountain

At the top we wandered down to the wildlife initiation centre where there was a very good exhibition about Canadian wildlife; it was shocking to discover that most bear deaths are not natural in Banff NP; most are caused by the rail as bears discover that scavenging along the railway line is quite lucrative and either ignore or try to argue with the train. A few are killed by cars, though these are likely to be smaller, younger bears. The message was a simple one – if you want to be able to continue to see bears or any other wildlife, they must retain a fear of contact with man. So don't try to feed them or get close to them.

Hoary Marmot at top

On the way back to the gondola we took some shots of a lovely pair of yellow bellied marmots doing their thing while we stood unobtrusively watching them. By the time we got down, Mrs Grizzly and cub had gone, but we got some more good shots of the same marmots prancing around the lawns in front of the main buildings. From the bottom, it was obvious where all the ski runs are in the winter, but as they run through grizzly territory, it is probably as well that the bears sleep during the winter.

Lake Louise

On the way to Lake Louise itself, we stopped for a picnic lunch to fortify ourselves for the afternoon excursion. I knew Sue really fell for the guide book talk of Lake Agnes being beautiful, unspoiled and less visited than Lake Louise (this would not be difficult as I am sure that I read 10,000 visitors a day is not unheard of), but I thought that a 3½ km hike with a 400m elevation gain sounded rather heavy going, so rather hoped she would cool on the idea. I pointed out that 3.5Km was about 2 miles; a fast walk on level ground would take 1hr; climbing would probably take twice as long. Not a bit of it and off we went, there were several times on the climb when we both felt like calling it a day but plodded on, taking rests to get our puff back before plodding on again.

Lake Agnes

Some parts were particularly demanding but OK taken sensibly. I don't think 10,000 people were going up the trail but there were quite a number. At last after 1¾ hours we got to the top. The lake was indeed lovely, the view spectacular, the drink of pink lemonade at the teashop tasted of (slightly warm) nectar (it is remote and only solar powered). The sense of achievement, priceless. After a recovery period, we started our treck down, stopping at mirror lake which frankly looked more like a muddy puddle to me. We finally got down quite exhausted in about an hour. After a warming down walk back to the car, we returned to Banff along the old parkway in the hope of seeing some wildlife. No chance!! We passed 'Moose Meadows' with no sign of the eponymous animal and while the road was certainly more interesting than the highway, we didn't spot any spectacular viewpoints.

Back in Banff, we decided to walk(!!) the couple of blocks to the high street and find a restaurant for dinner. While we were waiting for our first course to arrive, there was a lot of commotion in the street outside. Looking to see what it was, with crazy tourists running toward some attraction with camera shutters blazing, there was a young elk looking thoroughly startled by the attention.

Elk in the high street (to left of centre just above man with blue top

We didn't have any cameras other than my phone and I took a quick snap from my table heeding the advice that morning but was astounded to see people running towards the poor beast who very wisely hightailed it out of the vicinity. According to the guidebook seeing elk in the high street is not that uncommon and people are killed each year by getting so close the animal feels cornered and threatened, dealing with it in the only way it knows how.

I was prepared by the guidebooks to hate Banff as a tourist trap, but rather like Queenstown in New Zealand, I think it has more to it than meets the tourist eye. True most of the activity is centred on an extremely commercial high street but it does its job with a modicum of charm and manages not to look seedy; despite the activity it is clean and tidy. Our B&B was only 2 blocks from the high street but in a quiet residential neighbourhood; that's clever.

written by

rickandsuejohnson on August 18, 2010 from Banff, Canada

from the travel blog: Go west, then go west some more.

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Calgary, Canada

Smelly Banff Springs

We left our B&B and parked up in town to do our final bits and pieces there before heading off to see the cave where the hot sulphur springs emerge from the rocks into a bubbling pool . The complex there is being renovated so we couldn't actually see the baths that triggered tourism for the CPR railway and were the start of the National Parks at the turn of the last century.

Banff Falls

There are board walk paths for you to view the Bow River and a marshland area but we decided to give them a miss and go straight to Bow Falls, which are just below the Fairmont Banff Springs hotel. The area was quite busy so we only stopped for a short while before heading up Mount Norquay, a short 10 minute drive to view the town from above.

Changing terrain in the smoke from BC

Off on Highway 1 again towards Calgary. From the map there didn't appear to be any service or picnic areas so I suggested we turn off the motorway for a short while to a lake area just south of Cranmore, Lac des Arcs. Cranmore looked a lovely place with large Chalet type Condos at the base of the mountain. We guessed it wouldn't be as pricey as Banff but wouldn't be far, about 20 minutes drive, as a base to visit the town and the ski areas there.

Unfortunately Tom Tom (GPS) hadn't taken on board instructions to go via the Lakes and we found ourselves heading nearer to Calgary. We tried a couple of turn offs, which according to signs on the motorway, should have led us to a picnic area but either we misinterpreted the sign or the areas were some distance away as we couldn't find them. We eventually found a lay-by very near to the city and cobbled together a picnic from the boot. There was an interpretive sign telling about the birth of the cheese industry in the area. It was founded by an immigrant who had moved twice from one part of Canada further west to another. He had tried his hand at arable farming but, due to crop failure, had then decided on livestock. Calgary was already established in milk production, so he approached neighbours to form a co-operative for cheese production and his operation then grew from strength to strength.

Only a further 15 minutes and we were at Cozy Nest B&B. It was only 2 pm but we were lucky and Verna was at home and welcomed us in with a cup of tea. It was very hazy out and Verna confirmed that it was due to the smoke from the forest fires, so we decided not to go into Calgary for a view from the tower there. Instead we drove to a nearby shopping Mall to post a parcel, find a cash dispenser and locate a garage for refuelling and washing the car before returning it to Hertz before our flight tomorrow.

In the evening, on Verna's recommendation we headed for Mitillin's, run by a Lebanese, serving mainly Italian with middle eastern flavours. We reckon it was our best meal yet. Back at Verna's we invited her to join us in polishing off a bottle of red wine, which we had bought in Victoria and hadn't had a chance to drink. Just as we were sitting down, her other regular guest, Andrew from Quebec, arrived and the four of us spent a pleasant hour chatting about everything and anything – a lovely conclusion to our holiday.

written by

rickandsuejohnson on August 20, 2010 from Calgary, Canada

from the travel blog: Go west, then go west some more.

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Go west, then go west some more.

a travel blog by rickandsuejohnson

Mountains high, falls, frozen rivers and the gene pool

Lake Louise, Canada

A lake with an unfortunate name and two with very good ones

Banff, Canada

Adventures with wildlife and a steep climb

Banff, Canada

Journey's end

Calgary, Canada