I am pretty lost, but there's a 10k run going on called "Freedom run". I decide to join (walking) which turns out to be a wonderful sightseeing tour of the historic center. Then I have breakfast, visit Fort Santiago, Rizal park, Bayview. I meet some Filipinos who tell me there's not much to do in Manila, better head to Taal Volcano. I go there after lunch. My plan is to take a nightbus to Banaue in the evening, so I'm very pressed for time to reach the Volcano and back. Luckily, on the bus to the Volcano, I meet tricycle driver Lui-Lui. Upon arrival in Tagatay, the rain is pouring down (it's rain season), and Lui-Lui takes me in his tricycle down to the lake where the Volcano is, then I take a boat over to the Volcano.

On the foot of the Volcano, some people tell me it's too muddy and steep to climb the Volcano by foot, so the only option is horse. Never having ridden a horse before, I climb terrified and my budget nine-year old guide Cherry jumps on behind me, grabs hold of me and yells something in Tagalog and off we go...

Back in Manila I barely make the night bus to Banaue (I get the last seat). Next to me sits a guy from the Mountain village Batad about 16km outside Banaue. He tells me I definitely should go to Batad.

Manila historic center.

View of Manila.

Manila fortress. Watch out for flying golf balls.

My horse and guide Cherry.

Taal volcano. It is active, with water boiling at places.

Sunset at Taal volcano.

After breakfast, I find a motorcycle driver called Freddy who claims he can ride on top of the landslides to drop me off close to Batad. I hop on, and indeed he rides on top of the landslides, it's pretty cool, I just have to get off and walk one of them. After 6 miles we reach a really massive landslide, and Freddy says he can't take me longer. So I hike from there, around 6 miles on bad roads, climbing numerous landslides, then another 3 miles descending a small mountain trail to reach the village at around noon.

Batad is a truly remote place. The village is set on a mountain side surrounded by rice terraces. The only way to get around is by the steep trails they've created along the mountain. There are no motorized vehicles, I don't even see any electricity! In the Philippines, this area is called the Eighth Wonder of the World. It is so beautiful, that even the locals seem to spend most of their time just gazing at the rice terraces. Unfortunately, I'm so exhausted after the hike and the two nights without proper sleep, so I have some lunch, a shower, then collapse and sleep no less than 15 hours!

Freddy drives over a landslide.

A landslide on the way to Batad.

Another annoying landslide.

Arriving in Batad.

Yun then takes me another route back. The hard route. It involves some pretty scary moments such as climbing on small and slippery outcrops of rock with 100+ ft drop under us (guaranteed death if fall). Yun helps me through some tricky parts by pulling me up and telling me where it's safe to put my feet (he's climbed these Mountains all his life). I am so relieved when we reach back to the village center.

There, I meet a Filipino called Steve and his German boyfriend Adrian. They have learned about an alternative route back to Banaue which involves a 5 mile hike along a Mountain trail (unfortunately with numerous landslides) until we reach the same road I arrived on the day before. So there are another 5 Miles hike along that road until my driver Freddy meets me with his motorcycle.

Back in Banaue around 2pm. I have a really bad headache probably from lack of food and water, so I just have lunch, some Internet, and then sleep approximately 12 hours.

Downtown Batad.

Me with Batad rice terraces.

Not a great shot, but this is the landslide that took out the trail in front of us.

Batad school.

Me and my guide Yun.

Steve asks an old lady for directions, but she only speaks some tribe language.

30 minutes later we arrive at the cave. He lights up some lantern from the 18th century and when he sees the look I give him he says to not worry, he has a backup flashlight. He asks if my camera is water proof. No, why? Oh, because we will be walking with water up to our necks. After about 15 minute descent into the cave he stops and looks very puzzled. "Strong water has moved the rocks around. We need to find another route." Ok..

10 more minutes and we reach a hole. He tells me to take my shoes off, and proceeds to throw them down the hole. Seconds pass before we hear them land. Seconds. He says "don't worry, there's a rope, you know how to rappel?". Yes, I've rappeled, but not with a slippery rope without safety line. 10 more minutes and we reach another hole. Same procedure, except this time he tells me "here, nowhere to put your feet, you must use only arms. can your arms carry your bodyweight?". After we climb down, he tells me how one girl he guided fell there. I ask if she was ok, he says yes, yes. So she could continue with the tour? Oh no, she had to be rescued, but at least she survived. Great.

About 10 more minutes and we reach an underground river. This is what he says: "Oh, river is strong today! Dangerous! Are you strong swimmer?" I ask him what happens when it starts raining. He says then the cave fills up with water by flash flood; you must never enter the cave while it's raining. I ask him, but what about if it starts raining if you're already inside the cave, then you don't know? His expression is blank. As if he never thought of that. The rain has been pouring down every afternoon for the last three days. Our next step is a free climb around a slippery boulder above the river. I tell him there's no f*cking way I'm doing it. After promising him I will still pay him, he agrees to go back. The last memorable quote on our way up is "Shit! (lantern starts to flicker) SHIT! (complete darkness) (1 minute pass) SHIT, I forget the flashlight, can you climb the rest in darkness?"

When we're back outside the cave, he tells me it probably was a wise choice; FIVE tourists have died in that cave. Three fell to their death while climbing and two have died by flash flood. We have some time before darkness, so he takes me to Echo Valley to see the hanging coffins. Of course, on our way he happily points out the spot where an Italian tourist took a wrong step and fell 100m to his death. When we arrive back at my guest house, he says we've had such a great time so he invites me for some shots of local alcohol. I kindly decline, have some dinner, then stagger to bed.

Downtown Banaue. There's a ~300 lbs alive pig loaded in the tricycle...

Guide with lantern, at cave entrance.

On our way out from the cave, just having climbed up the last rope.

Hanging coffins, Echo Valley.

Me and my cave guide. I'm like a giant next to the small Filipinos!

I fell down a rock wall (luckily landed on a rice field).

Quick summary of what I've seen of Philippines:
- Food is ok, nothing spectacular. Mostly rice, eggs and some kind of Chicken stew.
- Very cheap. I paid $3.50-$5.50 for a private room (shared bath), and $1.70 is common for a complete meal (soup+main course).
- People are generally poor but friendly. Most women I see are either pregnant or carry a baby. Tourists are few and far in between.
- English is widely spoken, in fact all official signs seem to be in English. The country also has a strong Spanish heritage. This is evident in many foods (tocino, chicharron, longaniza, etc), words and numbers. (E.g. you'll hear someone ask about the time in Tagalog and the reply is "las once".) This makes traveling here very easy.

Some crazy people in Sagada downtown.

Here, in the mountain village of Sagada, I find the long sought for vaccine against the dreaded HIB.

Sagada church.

Each sack contains two live piglets. This was to go in our bus, but didn't fit. (We did have some chicken in our bus though.)

Baguio downtown.

Baguio market.

Baguio lake.

I spend the afternoon sightseeing the city; visit Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, Longshan temple and the Xinyi shopping district. I don't go to Taipei 101 since it's raining a little and the view wouldn't be that great. I also buy a train ticket for 7.18am tomorrow morning to the Taroko gorge (3 hours south of Taipei).

Yummy Taiwanese food! And spicy!

Lost in Taipei.

Some kind of monument.

Some temple and people praying.