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James & Tracey World Tour

a travel blog by James & Tracey


Welcome to James and Tracey's World tour Blog. We will try and update the tour as we go around (or whenever we get on internet!).
We hope you enjoy reading all about our adventures and dont get too jealous.
Please post any questions, thoughts or wishes.
We look forward to hearing from you all soon

For loads more photos of this trip visit
http://picasaweb.google.com/jamesandtrace

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Warm weather and Diving

Cairns, Australia


April 28
Up early as I had to go to a First aid course in order to be able to do the Rescue Diver course (starting tomorrow). I had a great morning learning CPR (again as only did it at work before I left!) and how to bandage arms and stuff. I then met James just after 2, who had been in the Internet cafe since around 11am! We left the internet cafe and got some lunch around 4.30pm - yes it take that long to do these things.
We chilled out back at the hostel for a bit before walking to the local Mexican for BOGOF meal - as we had a voucher.

April 29
The Pro-Dive bus picked us up just before 8am. We headed totheir training centre. We spent the morning watching training videos and being taught rescue stuff in a classroom. The afternnon was much more fun. We were in their 4m deep pool in scuba gear acting out various rescue scenarios. It was much easier for James to drag me out of the pool than it was for me - as my back would tell you. He had it easy!
We got back both feeling exhausted, but had to read the Rescue book that was given to us that day and we had to know the stuff by the next day. We both gave it a fair go but fell asleep with the books in our hands.

April 30
We woke up excited of the prospect of our next adventure - which was lucky as we got picked up at 6am.
At the dive shop James picked up a new Mask as his last one kept misting up and he didn't want to viwe the Great Barrier Reef through mist. We got onto the boat with another 20 or so divers, but we were the only 2 on the Rescue Diver course. We headed 3 hours out of Cairns for our first dive site. Our first dive was a fun dive, but the reef we found to be quite average - think its a bit too close to Cairns.
Dive 2 we practiced some skills on the surface - towing each other and panicked diver - we finished off with a fun dive in which we saw a blue spotted ray.
Dive 3 was spent practising bringing an unconscious diver to the surface, played inturn by James and I. Finished the rest of our air by going for a fun dive in which we saw a 1 1/2 metre long white tip reef shark. We returned to the boat, both of us needing the loo and tired. However, just as we got up onto the back of the boat there was a shout from person on lookout for "rescue divers". Both of us knew that this call could come at any time and we were to act as though a real emergency was taking place and we were getting marked on it. We got back in to the water to find 2 of the instructors acting
distressed. As I was out first and had heard about Anne-Lyse being an absolute nightmare to save I chose the other one, and left Anne-Lyse to James. During this rescue both of us got cramp in our calf, masks and regulator knocked off and pushed under the water several times. We finally managed to get them onto the boat and give them oxygen and appropriate first aid. We were absolutely knackered! They really didn't want saving.
For the evening we summoned up all of our energy and joined in the night dive. This was the first time we had to navigate ourselves in the dark - quite scary. While we were swimming a Large red bass quickly shot across our faces - making us pap ourselves!
After we got back around 8.30pm we had cake and went straight to our cabin and fell into a very deep sleep.

May 1
First dive was at 7am which was a nice relaxing dive around Flynn Reef.


Again once we got back onto the boat there was a shout of those now feared words "rescue divers". Of course Anne-Lyse was lying face down drifting in the sea. Foolishly we did our duty and saved her, with a touch of CPR. We were starting to question why we were bothering to do this course and not just enjoy some fun dives as we were still shattered and on edge all of the time.
We got ready for the next dive and went down to the platform from which we jump, only to hear the words "rescue diver". It had appeared a diver was missing (well a red weight belt) last seen swimming on a 300degree bearing. Using an opposite U shaped pattern we set off in search for the diver. We had 15 minutes to complete the exercise, but managed it in 3mins, much to everyones surprise.
As we still had plenty of air left our instructor took us for a fun dive and got us to hold a feather sea star and pinapple sea cucumber.
The boat moved to a new dive site. Everyone went for a fun dive, except us who threw stuff into the sea as practising rescuing techniques - rubbish! After a snorkel in which we saw a large Ray. We got back to the boat only to find Anne-Lyse was in trouble (again). She had a head injury in the water, so again towed her back to the boat, during which she fell unconsciuos (again) so we gave her CPR (again).
To finish the day off we went for a night dive and saw 2 massive sleeping turtles.
When we got back, very tired after a days diving and training they chose then to give us our written exam. These guys are serious. They were amazed when Trace got 59/60 (swot) but even more amazed that James managed to get 57/60.
After that they gave us a can of beer and let us go to bed.

May 2
Due to the amopunt we wanted to fit in, the first dive was at 6.30am. This was as the sun was rising. All of the nocturnal fish were going back to be and all the daytime fish were waking up and having breakfast. It was very busy on the reef. James got a cool video of a turtle eating the coral.
For our second dive we heard those fateful words "rescue diver" (think I may be hearing this in my nightmares). A diver had gone missing (again). However it was our dive intructor, Jason. We set of in a North-Westerly direction using the same search pattern as before. Trace found him playing with a Nemo fish when he realised he was supposed to be unconsious. We got him to the surface where he woke up and started shouting out his leg was impailed with some coral (a stick - goodness knows where he got it from we were in the middle of the sea!). We did the usual of First aid etc... Then we Passed our Rescue Diver - Hoorah! Went for a bit of a fun dive with the rest of our air. Where we found another shark, sleeping and swimming around the bottom.
Our last dive was completely fun. We hardly used any air as we were completely relaxed and not on edge waiting for a rescue to be required.


I hope we never hear the words "rescue diver" shouted at us again!
We headed back to shore and got dropped back at the hostel where we both had a siesta before getting ready to meet up with the guys from diving for a night on the tiles. Happy days.


permalink written by  James & Tracey on April 27, 2007 from Cairns, Australia
from the travel blog: James & Tracey World Tour
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Short Stop Over by the Whitsundays

Airlie Beach, Austria


May 4(th be with you)
Quite an exciting day. We spent 10 hours on a coach going from Cairns to Airlie Beach.
Arrived at around 5pm.
In the bar that night we bumped into a lad that had been on the dive boat with us. We enjoyed a few drinks together and had some crappy Nachos and called it a night.

May 5
We checked out of our room and walked around Airlie Beach for a while. We had Folafel wrap - no where near as good as the one in Melbourne though. James went for a swim in the Lagoon - Not safe to swim in the sea cos of all the stingers.


We enjoyed a bit of the sunshine and just chilled out until we had to catch the bus at 5.30pm.
The Bus journey was a mere 12hours long to get to Hervey Bay. It had the cheek to write on the side of the bus First Class with 5 stars - Believe me it was not first class as the seats were so uncomfortable it was untrue! Instead of sleep we had to stop every couple of hours and get off the bus (incase any of us stole from anothers bag) How ridiculous!


permalink written by  James & Tracey on May 4, 2007 from Airlie Beach, Austria
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Hervey Bay and Fraser Island

Torquay, Australia


Fraser Island is the Largest Sand Island in the world. Which means there are no man-made roads only sand tracks, hence riding only on 4 wheeled drives.
We headed to the Central Station and went for a nice 2km walk through Pile Valley. This is where they have rainforests - the only one to grow from sand.
We went to the resort of Eurong to have some lunch and enjoy the views from the soft sandy beach. We had to be quite careful getting to the sea as had to look both ways to cross the sand - the beach is one of the main roads on Fraser Island!

On our walk back to the resort there were a few people who had got stuck in the sand trying to cross the beach in their 4x4 - so we decided to take some photos!!
We went along the beach in our bus - the beach is called 75 mile beach, cos its 75 miles long. We got to Eli Creek where James walked up the creek and floated back down.

At this stage I didn't get in the water, just paddled as the water was flippin freezing!
Back onthe bus and along the beach to get to Indian Head. We walked to the top of the hill and admired the blue sea and sand dune views. In the water below us we saw a sting ray and shark swimming about. We weren't allowed to swim in the sea as the guide said the currents were strong and there were a few sharks about - enough said!
We stopped to take photos of the Maheno Wreck - a wreck that is lodged in the sand on the beach and is quite rusty, as I'm sure you can imagine.

We went back to Eurong Resort where we are staying the night. We had dinner and met up with some of the people on the tour in the bar for a few drinks and general chit chat.

May 8
James arose very early as he wanted to get pictures of the sun rise from teh beach. I stayed in bed as it was far too early to get up! He managed to get some good photos, it was a bit cloudy though. He decided to come back when he felt a couple of spots of rain, He took about 4 steps and the heavens opened - he came back to the room looking like a drowned rat!!
We had breakfast and back onto the big bus. We went for a long walk over the sand blow (just a big sand dune to you and me) to get to Lake Wabby. This is a green lake that is at the bottom of a large sand dune. We swam in it for a bit, quite cool but refreshing after the long walk to get to it. James went for a walk witha couple of others to get to a lookout point, on the way back he couldn't resist running down the sand dune into the water with photos taken of him going from the top to the bottom.


We had lunch at Eurong resort again before heading to the best place on Fraser Island - Lake McKenzie. We arrived on the white sandy beach and looked at the crystal clear blue lake and thought we were in paradise! The lake was 26 degrees, so just right for swimming.

We couldn't stay there all day, which was a shame as we had to catch the 4pm ferry back to the mainland.

In the evening we met up with a couple (James and Jill) from the tour for dinner and drinks at the pub. They have been living in New Zealand and travelled round there so we got a few pointers about what to see, plus a basic map of what route to go - sorted!


permalink written by  James & Tracey on May 6, 2007 from Torquay, Australia
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Last few days in Oz and back with the rellies

Tahmoor, Australia


May 9
We had a lazy morning just chilling out walking along the seafront, trying to soak up the last of the sunshine and warmth. We headed to the Airport and caught the flight back to Sydney.
We caught the train back to Tahmoor where Erin picked us up, took us back to theirs and fed us tea!
We only stayed for a few drinks as we were shattered, then went back with Ray to get some kip.

May 10
A bit of a lazy start, we uploaded some of the photos and left them running as its back to the old dial up.
Vicky and Barry came over with the kids and took us to the local pub for lunch and a couple of drinks. We then came back and had a few more drinks and chatted until the wee hours of the night!
It was meant to be a quiet day, guess it was in a way but just went on and on!

May 11
We had a very slow morning, due to a few sore heads. We had a barbie for lunch with Sue, Ray and Vicky's lot. Lounged about in the sunshine.
In the afternoon we went to Craigs house for his Birthday celebrations.


Yet another Barbie and clowning in their back yard, this time was refrained as it finished at Midnight!!

May 12
We spent most of the day trying to fit everything we had accumulated whilst in Oz into our rucksacks, for our impending flight to New Zealand. The rest of the day was spent chilling out. The evenings entertainment was a poor copy of Spiderman 3.

permalink written by  James & Tracey on May 9, 2007 from Tahmoor, Australia
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Road to Nowhere

Christchurch, New Zealand


May 13
We left early to get to the Airport, where Ray waved us off.
Got on the flight to Christchurch. There was only one film showing on the plane so had no other option but to watch it (it was a chick flick!) We were served steak pie, which kind of
made up for it. The views from the plane coming into Christchurch were amazing - from left to right all we could see were mountains - Awesome!
After the hassle of getting through the rigerous customs in New Zealand we were greeted by Kea Campers and taken to our new home for the next 4 weeks - the campervan.
We straight away went and picked up $250 worth of grub and found a campsite. We then spent the next hour or 2 organising our new 10x6 room, cleverly laid out, but you can't get away from the fact the 2 of us are now sharing a transit van with no where to escape to - Uh Oh!!
To settle in James decided to put some ice cubes in the freezer, to his surprise when he turned the water on it burst out, hit the ice cube tray and rebound all over him. Hilarious!!

May 14
After waking up and finding our new home very cold, compared to our under floor heated flat at home, and our fridge still warm and those pesky ice cubes still being water. We took the Campervan back to the depot to get it sorted and then onto The Warehouse, to buy us some much needed warm clothes and waterproofs.
We decided to skip Christchurch town and concentrate on its scenery. We caught the Gondola (or Cable car to you and me) up the hillside where it gave us a magnificent view of an ancient volcanic area. During its past there has been 3 very large eruptions, creating this Lake surrounded by huge hills. We set off on foot for a lookout point half an hour away, didn't really find that one but carried on walking and found many of our own.


After a good 2 hour hike and plenty of photos later we got back to the cable car, very hot, sweaty and gasping for a drink (note to self - take drink with you in the future!)

As it fell dark, we did a quick 150km drive to our next destination of Lake Tekapo. We found a free picnic spot to park our van and enjoyed a night playing cards.


permalink written by  James & Tracey on May 13, 2007 from Christchurch, New Zealand
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What a surprise view

Lake Tekapo, New Zealand


May 15
After we had parked the van in the dark the night before with no real idea of where we were, we woke to an amazing surprise. To find we were on the side of a hill overlooking a big turquoise lake, surrounded by mountains with the sun rising over the top. We really thought we are going to enjoy New Zealand.

We decided to get some better views of this landscape so we set off for a 2 and 1/2 hour walk. As first thing in the morning it was still cold, so we put on all of our new warm clothing, and set off.

Shortly enough we found some panoramic view of the surrounding hills and lake.

After we got back even though we had stripped of our many layers we still needed warming with some good old fashioned Heinz tomato soup (or so we thought, just Watties is the exactly the same tin but with their name on - how cheeky!)
Trace then took over the driving and drove the next 100km to Glentanner. On the way we stopped off at quite a few lookout points of lakes and mountains. (this looks as though we might be able to take a lot of photos here)

permalink written by  James & Tracey on May 15, 2007 from Lake Tekapo, New Zealand
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Mount Cook

Glentanner, New Zealand


May 15
We arrived at Glentanner, then headed straight for the village of Mount Cook. As the name suggests its right by Mount Cook!! The highest mountain in New Zealand. We couldn't actually see the top of the mountain though so couldn't see exactly how high it was, the summit was covered with clouds.
We decided as it was beginning to rain and the wind was getting up to leave our hike until tomorrow, and then hopefully see the top of Mount Cook. Headed back to camp.

May 16
James got up early and went for a bit of a walk to try and get the sun coming over the surrounding mountains - wearing hat and full waterproofs as overnight the wind had picked up even more and now was raining.


We packed up camp and filled the van with water - James now not in his waterproofs got soaked as the tap fell off spraying water everywhere. Second lot of clothes today!
There was a magnificent rainbow that formed over the hill behind the camp, so we set about trying to photograph the whole thing, except it proved to be difficult, the further away we got the bigger the rainbow got, so after about 1/2 hour we gave up and made do with the ones we had!

As the wind had picked up, we weren't able to go for a hike by Mount Cook as we may have fallen/flown off the mountain side. Yes thats right we had 200km winds!
We drove away from the mountains towards the coast, stopping now and again to take yet more photos! There were some pretty cool Dams on the way through - the water was crashing over the top and it looked more like the ocean than a lake. James got out of the van to take some photos, I videoed him in the wind, just as I finished filming he got hit by a wave, Gutted I stopped it just too soon - third set of clothes for the day!!

We had lunch by a farmers field on the side of the road watching the dog trying to round up some cows, except the cows weren't having any of this and kept charging the brave dog.
We arrived at Oamaru. We went to where the Blue Penguins are but found out we were around 4 hours too early for them, as we were just passing through we didn't have time to stop. We were advised to make our way down to Bushy Beach lookout to hopefully capture a glimpse of the rare Yelloe-Eyed Penguins. These are apparently the rarest in the world. After about an hour of waiting and spotting one lone seal in the surf, we spied a little penguin head bobbing in the surf. Over the next half an hour a few more popped up, came in with the waves and waddled up the beach out of view. At this point we were quite cold and decided to call it a day, on the way back we had one quick look at a different lookout and were amazed to find one of the penguins had climbed up the steep bank through all of the bushes and was stood there right in front of us waddling along - these birds are meant to be extremely shy, but the little girls by us shouting away didn't seem to phase them at all.


permalink written by  James & Tracey on May 15, 2007 from Glentanner, New Zealand
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Rik Stein's choice of Restaurant

Moeraki, New Zealand


May 16
From bushy beach we headed down the coast to Moeraki. Following signs for the "Moeraki Boulders". These are ancient spherical boulders that are in the sand and surf. How they got there we don't know as there were no guides or signs to help us, guess it must have been some volcanic thing at some point. Who cares they look well good. As you might be able to tell by the number of photos!

A short journey in to the village we found our way to World Famous Fleur's Place. After a brief discussion they agreed to let us camp in thier car park for the night (Right next to the harbour and ocean) as we were eating there that night.
To get our bearings and to kill time until dinner we went for a walk over the head land, however, after finding many sheep on top we realised it would be a long way in the dark to the other side, so we turned round to head back and have a drink overlooking the sea instead.
We had heard quite a few comments about this restaurant, all very good, and as we found out much deserved. As Rik Stein had found out when he went there and apparently said on his TV show - the fish is absolutely fantastic and was all about back to basic cooking. My Monkfish was absolutely spot on.

May 17
As we had found out there is only enough hot water in the campervan for one person to have a quick shower. Today it was James' lucky day as he had the full hot shower and was going to be clean. I, however, had half and half (hot and cold!).
Not because of its name but because of what we were promised to see there. We headed of to Shag Point. After half an hours wandering along the cliff top edge we spied many Shags (a type of Cormorant). We also started to spot Fur seals getting up on to the rocks to enjoy the morning sunshine, where they would probably lounge around for the rest of the day after a night on the ocean - fishing.
A few of the Seals seemed a little concerned with our present. Whilst most just gave us a disapproving look, some of the more cautious fled along the rocks and into the sea (sorry!)



permalink written by  James & Tracey on May 16, 2007 from Moeraki, New Zealand
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Very Windy day

Dunedin, New Zealand


May 17
We headed down to Dunedin and the Otago Penninsula. To get to the end of the penninsula we had to wind our way along a road which was next to the edge of the sea, so close in fact that the waves were lapping onto the road carrying with it sea weed and sending salty spray all over our van - good fun though! We got to the end to the much awaited Albatross centre. However, it was too much for our budget mostly because all you are going to get to see are birds which, ok, are a bit bigger than other sea birds, But at the end of the day they are just birds! We tried to get a sneaky peek around the corner but had built a big wall out over the cliff, obviously others had tried this before and felt the same way about the cost of getting in.
Instead we decided to find our way down to a secluded bay which held the possibility of seeing some Sea Lions. After negotiating quite a few kms of dirt tracks in our not-off road campervan we found signs for our bay, as the road ran out. It was blowing a gouly outside, all weather protected we headed out over a field. As we went over the sand dune and down onto the beach the wind was really starting to pick up, the waves were kind of being blown backwards and a constant sand storm was blowing across the beach. We kind of knew that no Sea Lions in their right mind would be there, but we had to have a look to make sure. We headed off down the beach, with our anoraks blowing madly in the wind, only to find when the wind died the waves took that chance to come all the way up the beach, leaving us scrambling up the cliff side to safety!

After a retreat back along the beach, battling against the winds/sand storm/timing between the waves, we made it to the tranquil environment of our van.

We headed into town to have a look around, only to find that parking is restricted to 5 or 10 mins and all of the pay and display multi storeys don't have any where near enough clearance for our 2.7m van. So we decided to make tracks out of town to find ourselves a free picnic spot to camp for the night. On our way out we spotted a Fish and Chip shop, which of course is where we got a cheap feed.

permalink written by  James & Tracey on May 17, 2007 from Dunedin, New Zealand
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Glowworms and Milford Sound

Te Anau, New Zealand


May 18
We had a surprise phone call from Megan in the morning - Thanks for the Kiwi welcome!
We had a 3 hour drive ahead of us, stopping now and aging for photos. We arrived in the town of Manapouri and looked into going across to Doubtful Sound. This however is a lot more expensive than the trip to Milford Sound and spending the same amount of time on a boat, so we decided not to go and drove down the road to Te Anau.
The lady in the Information office told us that Te Anau doesn't have any free camping places within 7km of the town so we had to settle for a campsite by the lake. We booked a couple of tours and headed away for dinner.
As we finished dinner and were preparing to have a nice gentle stroll along the Lakeside to get to our trip set off point I looked at the ticket realising that the trip stared at 7pm not 7.30pm, so it was a mad dash in the campervan to the jetty and quick jog onto the boat - in true Franks style "just in time".
The trip was a 25 min boat ride across the lake to get to some caves. These caves went in 7km but we only walked in about 250m, then caught a boat in the dark to look at the Glowworms. Small blue lights all over the ceiling. It was cool, except we weren't allowed to take cameras in so couldn't get any photos to show you - Rubbish!

May 19
A reasonably early start to the day as we had a 120km drive to get to the starting point of our next trip. As we drove out of town along the Milford road we went past loads of free camping places - So not far at all to save a bit of money, think the Info girl was on Commission!
We stopped at Boyd Creek - a small stepped waterfall. It took a while for us to find it as the paths weren't very good and we just followed the sound of water (and I followed James).
Next stop was the Mirror lakes, as the names suggest they have a mirror image of the lakes. Some photo opportunity here, except the walkway was in the wrong place to get the perfect shot - apparently!


The road was quite windy so it was difficult to stop at certain places when the views were magnificent, so you'll just have to take our word for it!
We went through Homer Tunnel (d'oh) which was cut through the mountain and emerged the other side with a series of hairpin turns in the road - awesome!
Our final stop before Milford was the Chasm. A rock chasm that has been formed by the rushing waters of the Cleddau river and a pretty good water fall.
Arriving at Milford Sound and getting onto our boat - The Milford Mariner, we headed out into the river for our 2 1/2 hour journey. It started off well with a bit of sunshine breaking through the clouds, nice views of waterfalls and quite pleasant outside, then went to misty, cold and wet, so the waterproofs were donned.

Milford Sound isn't actually a Sound it is Fjord. This means that it was formed by a Glacier then flooded by the sea, rather than formed by a river (sound). But they still kept the name?!
After the trip we then headed back down the 120km windy mountainous road and added another 180km to Queenstown. We think we were on an amazing road as there were loads of signs for lookouts, except we couldn't see a thing as it was dark, oh well!
We stopped at the first caravan site we came to as we were shattered.


permalink written by  James & Tracey on May 18, 2007 from Te Anau, New Zealand
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