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Hiroshima (広島) [1] is an industrial city of wide boulevards, criss-crossing rivers and a dense city center. It is located along the coast of the Seto Inland Sea in the western Chugoku region of Japan. Although many only know it for the horrific split second on August 6, 1945, when it became the site of the world's first atomic bomb attack, it is now a modern, cosmopolitan city with a lot of great food and nightlife.
[edit] Understand

Those expecting to step off the Shinkansen into a pile of smouldering rubble may be in for a surprise, as Hiroshima has all the ferroconcrete and blinking neon of any other modern Japanese city and a population of more than 1,100,000 people. It is the financial center of the Chugoku region and most of west Japan. Automobiles are a major local industry, with Mazda's corporate headquarters nearby. There is also a busy naval port, Ujina.

Hiroshima was founded in 1589 on the delta formed by the Ota River, flowing out to the Seto Inland Sea. It became a major industrial center and one of Japan's larger cities in the Meiji period. During World War II, the Japanese military used Hiroshima as a communications and supply center, taking advantage of its position on the Inland Sea. It was left largely untouched by aerial bombing campaigns before the atomic bomb was dropped. It is estimated that 140,000 people were killed in the explosion and its aftermath. The survivors, known as hibakusha, were subjected not only to radiation-related diseases but severe discrimination from other Japanese, but have since been at the forefront of Japan's post-war pacifism and its campaign against the use of nuclear weapons.

Many visitors, especially Americans, may feel apprehensive about visiting Hiroshima. It's a friendly, welcoming city, however, as interested in Western culture as anywhere else in Japan, and the exhibits related to the atomic bomb are not concerned with blame or accusations. Tourists are welcomed with open arms. Bear in mind, though, that many of the hibakusha still live in Hiroshima. Even many young people may have personal ties to family members who lived through the atomic blast. As such, the average Hiroshima resident isn't likely to relish talking about it, although you needn't shy away from the topic if one of the chatty fellows around the Peace Memorial Park brings it up.
[edit] Orientation

JR Hiroshima Station is a 15 minute walk from the city center. If you arrive by Shinkansen, you will be at the back of the station, facing a silver Peace Pagoda on the top of Ushita-yama. If you cross under or through the station to the main side, you will see the taxis, trams and buses that lead to the city center. The front of the station also has the main tourist information office. If you feel like walking from the station, cross the river in front of the station and take the first right along the main road. You will be in the city center in less than 15 minutes.

Other visitors may arrive at the Hiroshima Bus Center (広島バスセンター), which is right in the center of the city, inside the Sogo department store. Hondori, a long covered shopping street, is a good landmark to use to orient yourself, and most sites are within walking distance from there. The Peace Park (平和公園 Heiwa Koen）is in the city center. Most trams and buses from the train station run past or close to the Peace Park. Across from Peace Park is the current Hiroshima Carp baseball stadium. Also just north of the city center is Hiroshima Rijo Castle (広島城）a rebuilt version of the original, but beautiful and a great place to relax or stroll. Across the street from the castle is Chuo Park (中央公園 Chuo-koen), where you can find groups picnicking and exercising in the biggest open space in the city.
[edit] Get in
[edit] By plane

Hiroshima Airport (HIJ) connects to domestic destinations in Japan. Both ANA and JAL offer flights from Tokyo Haneda and Sapporo Chitose airports. ANA also offers flights from Tokyo Narita, Sendai and Okinawa. There are also international flights to and from Bali, Beijing, Shanghai, Seoul and Taipei. Bangkok Airways also (since 2006) flies directly to Hiroshima from Bangkok.

Buses connect the airport to Hiroshima station (50 minutes, ¥1300).
[edit] By train

Hiroshima is a major station on the Sanyo Shinkansen line. It is 40 minutes away from Okayama (¥5860 by Nozomi) and 90 minutes from Shin-Osaka (¥9950 by Nozomi). Regular local and rapid trains on the Sanyo Line reach Hiroshima in as little as 6 hours (¥5460).

From Tokyo it is four hours via Nozomi; five hours via Hikari (change trains once at Shin-Osaka or Okayama). Be very careful about taking a Kodama for the last leg of the journey; Hikari and Kodama services are valid under the Japan Rail Pass, but the all-stations Kodama service will add up to two hours to your trip.

Cheaper but slower local services radiate out to other cities in the region.

The Hayabusa overnight sleeper train leaves Tokyo daily at 6 PM, arriving in Hiroshima at around 5:20 the next morning. A later alternative from Tokyo is to take the 10 PM Sunrise Izumo/Seto train to Okayama, then take the San'yo Shinkansen to Hiroshima, arriving around 7:30 the next day.
[edit] By bus

The New Breeze overnight bus runs from Tokyo to Hiroshima. There are two nightly departures in each direction: From Tokyo, departing at 20:00 and 21:00, with both buses arriving in Hiroshima at 8:00 the next day. From Hiroshima, departing at 19:00 and 20:00, with both buses arriving in Tokyo at 7:00 the next day. The trip costs ¥11600 one way, ¥21200 round trip.

Daytime express buses run from Osaka to Hiroshima. There are five departures daily, and the travel time is five hours each way. It costs ¥5000 one way, ¥9000 round trip.

There are also overnight buses from Osaka: The Sanyo Dream Hiroshima from Osaka Station and the Venus from the Namba bus terminal. Both buses take between 6 and 7 1/2 hours to make their journeys, and cost ¥5700 one way, ¥11000 round trip.

There are also two daily buses, and one overnight bus, from Kyoto. The daytime buses take 5 1/2 hours (¥5500 one way, ¥10000 round trip) and the overnight bus takes 6 hours (¥6300 one way, ¥11400 round trip).

Daytime buses also run from cities such as Okayama, Fukuyama, Takamatsu and Fukuoka.
[edit] By ferry

Ferries run from Hiroshima's Ujina Port, which also serves as terminus for several tram lines. Ishizaki Ferry operates daily boat service to Matsuyama in Shikoku, with some boats stopping in Kure (呉). The ride takes 70-80 minutes to reach Matsuyama and costs ¥6300 each way. Slower ferries depart on different schedules and arrive in about 2 1/2 hours at a cost of only ¥2700 each way.
[edit] Get around
[edit] By tram
Hiroshima city tram
Hiroshima city tram

Hiroshima is the last major city in Japan with an extensive tram (streetcar) network, Hiroden (広電). It's a slow but reliable way of getting around. The trams themselves are a mix of old rattle-traps and new "Green Movers", although both run on the same lines for the same fares. There's no difference other than the smoothness of the ride. (During the summer, open-air trams are an extremely rare but occasional sight.) Most lines start or finish at JR Hiroshima Station, and they run frequently during daytime and evening hours. Trips within the city are a flat ¥150, while trundling out all the way to Miyajima will set you back ¥280. One-day passes are available for ¥600 (¥300 children), or ¥840 (¥420 children) including the ferry to Miyajima.
[edit] By bus

Bus lines run through Hiroshima and out to the suburbs. Generally speaking, these serve areas more likely to be used by locals than visitors, but bus #30 does run to the Hiroshima Youth Hostel. Signs include English, and the bus depot is next to the tram depot in front of JR Hiroshima Station.
[edit] By sightseeing bus

Sightseeing buses run to a few of the major sights from JR Hiroshima Station at 9am, 10am and 1pm. Look for the bus stops and route maps on the shinkansen side of the station, near the Hotel Granvia.
[edit] By metro

The modern (if strangely named) Astram links the city center with its northern suburbs. It is useful if you want to visit the Hiroshima Asa Zoo, or watch a professional San Frecce J-League soccer game at the Big Arch stadium.
[edit] By bike

If you want to cycle around Hiroshima, walk left along the main street in front of the station for 5 minutes to the Nippon car rental shop, where you can rent bicycles for the day. Hiroshima is a great city for cycling. The paths along the many branches of the Otagawa River offer a much more enjoyable ride than the sidewalks. To their credit, though, most of the streets and sidewalks in Hiroshima are wider and less crowded than ones in Tokyo or Kyoto, so you'll at least have a bit more room to maneuver.
[edit] See
[edit] Atomic bombing
A-Bomb Dome
A-Bomb Dome

The following memorials related to the bombing are all clustered in Peace Memorial Park (平和公園 Heiwa-kōen), reachable by tram line 2 or 6 to Genbaku Domu-mae. Coming from JR Hiroshima Station, you'll see the Peace Park on your left and the baseball stadium on your right, just before crossing the Aioi Bridge - which was thought to be the target of the atomic bomb.

The International Exchange Office (Tel. 082-247-9715. Open 9am - 7pm May-Nov., 10am - 6pm Dec. - Apr.) near the center of the Peace Park can provide English-language information about any of the many statues and memorials that are dotted throughout the park.
Kannon statue draped with origami cranes, Peace Memorial Park
Kannon statue draped with origami cranes, Peace Memorial Park

* Hiroshima Peace Memorial. Better known as the A-Bomb Dome (原爆ドーム Genbaku Dōmu) is Hiroshima's best-known symbol. Formerly the Prefectural Industrial Promotional Hall, it was designed by Czech architect Jan Letzel and completed in 1915. The fanciful green dome in particular made the building a much-loved symbol in Hiroshima before the war. When the atomic bomb was dropped on August 6, 1945, the explosion is thought to have taken place almost directly above the building. Its skeletal remains were among the few buildings left standing in the entire city. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1996 amid some controversy - the United States and China both voted against the nomination for reasons related to the war, and some Japanese continue to find it a disturbing sight. It has become a symbol of the city once again, though, and the benches around the building are as likely to be occupied by Hiroshima natives reading, eating lunch or simply relaxing as they are by tourists.

* Peace Memorial Museum (平和記念資料館 Heiwa Kinen Shiryōkan) (March - Nov. 8:30am to 6pm, Dec. - Feb. to 5pm, Aug. to 7pm. Closed 12/29 - 1/1) [2]. This heart-wrenching museum documents the bomb and its aftermath, complete with scale models of "before" and "after", melted children's tricycles and a harrowing recreation of a post-blast Hiroshima street. The first floor describes the events leading up to the bomb and attempts to give a sense of what Hiroshima was like before the war. The second floor contains a number of displays and artifacts related to the day of the bombing. Some of these are extremely graphic, evocative and - consequently - disturbing. The rest of the museum describes the post-war struggles of the hibakusha (bomb survivors) and the state of nuclear weapons in the world today. Entry costs a token ¥50, and audio guides are available for an additional donation. Be warned: a visit here, while by all means worthwhile, will ruin your day. Allow plenty of time afterward to decompress. Shukkeien (below) is a good destination for that purpose.

* The Cenotaph for the A-bomb Victims is a saddle-shaped concrete memorial containing the names of persons who died from the bombing, "regardless of nationality". Under the arch is a flame which, it is said, will not be extinguished until the last nuclear weapons are gone from the earth. Beyond the cenotaph is a pond leading toward the A-Bomb Dome.

* Hiroshima National Peace Memorial Hall for the Atomic Bomb Victims (March - July, Sep. - Nov. 8:30am - 6pm, Aug. to 7pm, Dec. - Feb. to 5pm. Closed 12/29 - 1/1. Admission free) [3]. Next to the Cenotaph, this museum is dedicated collecting names and photographs of people who died in the blast. The entrance of the museum leads downward to a quiet hall for contemplation, and then back up again, to a set of kiosks with compelling stories and recollections from survivors (in English and Japanese).

* Statue of the A-Bomb Children. Perennially draped in thousands and thousands of origami paper cranes, folded by schoolchildren across Japan in memory of bomb victim Sadako Sasaki. Dying of leukemia in 1954, she was told an old folk tale according to which anybody who folds over 1000 cranes will have her wish come true; she managed 642 before her death in 1955 at the age of twelve.

[edit] Gardens and castles
Bridges in Shukkeien
Bridges in Shukkeien

* Shukkeien (縮景園). While not officially one of Japan's Top 3, this is a compact and beautifully landscaped Japanese garden well worth a visit. Despite more and more high-rises peeping over the trees recently, it can feel like an entirely different world. Little paths crossing ponds on bridges and winding their way around graceful teahouses and waterfalls. Open daily 9 AM to 6 PM, entry ¥250. Get there on tram line 9, stop Shukkeien-mae. It's behind the Prefectural Art Museum, and combined admission tickets are available. The garden is especially pretty in spring when the cherry blossoms are in bloom, in the fall with the Koyo, vibrant colors of the fall leaves, and in winter when the park is covered in a light dusting of snow.

* Hiroshima Castle (広島城 Hiroshima-Rijō). The castle is a fun place to walk around or jog around- there is a 1.5km running path that circles the castle grounds outside the moat. There is a small kids playpark on one side and its a nice place to sit and relax for a while. Kids have fun spotting the fish that swim in the moat as well as turtles. It's just across the street from Chuo Park. The grounds of the castle and the banks of the moat are great places to view the 350 or so cherry trees that come into bloom in early April. The castle museum is a ferroconcrete reconstruction of the 16th century, 5-story Donjon, well worth a look if you are interested in a bit of culture. There are amazing relics and armor to see (and try on!) as well as informative displays about the history of the castle and the city. The view from the top is worth the entrance fee all by itself.
o The castle grounds also house a monument to Chinese workers killed by the atomic bomb, which was not allowed into the Memorial Park for political reasons.

* Hijiyama-koen is a huge park to the south of JR Hiroshima Station, between two branches of the river. (Follow Ekimae-dori from the station to the southeast, and you'll walk directly into it.) There are the usual areas for sitting in the sun (and rather a lot of stray cats), but much of the park remains refreshingly undeveloped forest land. The Museum of Contemporary Art and the Manga Museum are within the grounds of the park, as is a futuristic long tunnel / escalator to the SATY grocery store / shopping mall / movie theater. One of the very few remaining structures from before the atomic bomb is also on the outskirts of the park. Walk up toward the park on the street branching off from the Hijiyamashita tram stop. You'll see a temple on your left. Just past the temple is a set of stone steps heading back toward the tram stop. At the top of the steps is a small house and an explanatory plaque. (Notice the vane at the top of the house, warped from the heat of the bomb.) Please note that while visitors are welcome in the front yard, the rest of the area is private property, including the house itself.

[edit] Other museums

* The Hiroshima Museum of Art (3-2 Motomachi, Naka-ku, Tel. 082-223-2530. Open 9am - 5pm, closed 12/29 - 1/2; admission ¥1200 adults, ¥900 high school students, ¥500 junior high and elementary school students) [4] was established by the Hiroshima Bank in 1978. The permanent collection covers European art from late Romanticism to early Picasso, including a couple of Japanese painters who painted in Western styles. It's a ruthlessly stratified selection: at least one painting by every Famous Artist of the period, but no major works by any of them. It's on the other side of Jonan-dori from Hiroshima Castle. Take tram lines 1, 2 or 6 to Kamiya-cho (a big intersection just before the Peace Park) and walk two minutes north. It's included in the route of the sightseeing buses that leave from JR Hiroshima Station.

* The Hiroshima Prefectural Museum of Art (2-22 Kaminobori-cho, Naka-ku, Tel. 082-221-6246. Open 9am - 5pm, until 7pm on Saturday, closed Sunday and 12/25 - 1/1. Admission ¥500, ¥300 for college students, children free) [5] has a good permanent collection of modern European art, including major works by Dali and Magritte, and a a few modern Japanese artists as well. Special exhibitions are of a generally high quality, ranging from Persian carpets to The Legend of Ultraman. It's located in front of Shukkeien, east of Hiroshima Castle, a couple blocks north of Jonan-dori and Hakushima-dori.

* The Hiroshima City Museum of Contemporary Art (1-1 Hijiyama-Koen, Minami-Ku, Tel. 082-264-1121. Open 10am - 5pm, closed Mondays, national holidays, Tuesdays after national holidays that fall on a Monday, August 6th, and 12/29 - 1/3. Admission ¥360 for adults, ¥270 for college students and ¥170 for other students; free November 3rd) [6] is probably the most worthy of a visit among Hiroshima's three art museums. There are a few famous Western names in its collection, including Andy Warhol and Frank Stella, but the real emphasis is on interesting modern Japanese artists working in their own styles, and the exhibition designers make creative use of the museum space. Special exhibitions cost extra. There is a sculpture garden outside that can be visited for free, and a decent city-view from the plaza near the museum's front steps. (Head past the giant sloping gate-sculpture.) See the directions to Hijiyama-koen above.

* The Manga Library / Museum is around the corner from the Museum of Contemporary Art.

* Mazda Museum (Mukainada-cho Shinchi 3-1, Tel. 082-252-5050) [7]. Mazda's corporate headquarters are a short distance outside of Hiroshima. They offer free tours every weekday at 9:30am and 1:00pm in Japanese, and 1:00pm in English. The tour is a must for any automobile fan. Space is limited, and they ask that you call first to make a reservation. If you have any serious technical questions then you should go on the Japanese tour and bring along your own interpreter. The English tour guides are not very knowledgeable. The tour will begin with a historical view of the Mazda company from its early days making three-wheeled trucks and cork, to the present day Renesis Wankel Rotary Engine. Highlights include the Mazda Cosmos (the world's first Rotary Engine car) and the 4-Rotor Mazda 787B, which is the only Japanese car to win at Le Mans. From there you will be taken to see how the design and build process works at their Ujina plant, and you will be taken onto the actual assembly line to see the latest Mazda vehicles being made. The tour concludes with a view of Mazda's attempts to make Hydrogen fueled cars and some of their concept vehicles. Take the San-yo line two stops east to JR Mukainada, head two blocks south, turn right and cross the street.

* Hiroshima's Transportation Museum. Located on the outskirts of the city, the transportation museum has many exhibits and interactive games. Outside, behind the museum, they have a track with many different, odd, funny and interesting kinds of bicycles to ride. It's great fun for children.

* Hiroshima Children's Museum and Library. Also a must-see for kids, with a planetarium on the top floor and full of fun scientific games for kids to play and learn from.

[edit] Do

* Hiroshima Family Pool. Open from July 1st-August 31st every year, this huge open-air pool is a popular place for kids and families to beat the heat. It becomes an ice-skating rink in the winter. Skates are available for rental, although they're pretty beat-up.

* Hiroshima Carp Professional Baseball. Hiroshima's entry in Japanese professional baseball, the much-beloved and bemoaned Carp play in a stadium across the street from the Peace Memorial Park. A new stadium is being built outside the city center for use in a couple seasons. While the team doesn't win much, the enthusiasm of the fans can hardly be faulted, and Hiroshima is as good a place as any to witness the fervor of Japanese baseball fandom. Get a seat in the bleachers, though, ideally on the right-field side - that's where the drums, chants and excitement are. (The reserved seats are oddly tame by comparison, and the left-field bleachers put you close to the area set aside for the fans of the visiting team.) Bleacher seats are ¥1500 and can usually be bought on the day of the game.

[edit] Learn

* Hiroshima International Center. Tel. 082-541-3777. In the Crystal Plaza building on the corner of Heiwa Odori (Peace Boulevard) opposite the Hokke Club Hotel. You can get free Japanese language and culture lessons here.

[edit] Work

Hiroshima features the standard array of English teaching opportunities, from JET (Japanese Exchange Teaching) to branches of the major eikaiwa like NOVA, Geos, AEON and ECC. Companies in the Hiroshima area hire contract workers from Southeast Asian and South Pacific nations for industries like ship-building, notably in Kure, a short distance from Hiroshima. Some non-Japanese work legally or under-the-radar as bartenders or sell jewelry in Nagarekawa.
[edit] Buy

The city center is packed with shopping areas. Across the street from JR Hiroshima Station is Fukuya, which has a good selection of English language fiction and travel books on the tenth floor. DeoDeo and Best / Yamada Denki are the major electronics stores. There's a towering Denki to your left as you exit JR Hiroshima Station, and a big DeoDeo on Aioi-dori close to the Peace Park.

Hiroshima has a few major department stores, including the aforementioned Fukuya and SOGO, which also has a good foreign language book section (6th floor), across the street from the Peace Park. For the latest in Japanese teen fashion, though, PARCO is the place to look. It's in a towering concrete block - just look up - on Hachobori and Hon-dori. Club Quattro is on the top floor of PARCO, and it plays host to most touring bands that deign to visit Hiroshima. The covered shopping streets of Hon-dori (本通り）have plenty of small shops for all purposes, especially clothing. SunMall, at the far end of Hon-dori, has CDs and Uniqlo, which has good, cheap clothing with larger sizes than most Japanese stores.

A tip for souvenir hunters on a tight budget: check out the fourth floor of the DeoDeo just off Hon-dori, next to the old Hiroshima Bank building. There is a 100 yen shop with an improbably excellent selection of distinctively Japanese souvenirs: pottery, sake sets, art, statuettes, signs and cheap ukiyo-e. It's on the left side of the store. Remember, nobody at home knows you only paid 100 yen for it!
[edit] Eat

Hiroshima is famous for its style of okonomiyaki (お好み焼き), which literally means "cook it as you like it". Often (and somewhat misleadingly) called "Japanese pizza", this is essentially a type of savoury pancake made with egg, cabbage, soba noodles and meat (or fish). It is grilled in layers on a hot plate in front of you and slathered liberally with okonomiyaki sauce and options that can include mayonnaise, pickled ginger and seaweed. It sounds and looks like a mess, but can be very tasty and filling if done well. Hiroshima style and Osaka style are the two competing types of okonomiyaki, and if you raise the subject of okonomiyaki with a local, be ready to state your preference between the two.

Hiroshima is also famous for its oysters and a maple-leaf-shaped pastry called momiji manjū (もみじ饅頭). Momiji is the leaf of a Japanese maple tree. Momiji manjū are available with a variety of fillings, including the more traditional anko (あんこ) or red bean and matcha (抹茶) or green tea. It's also available in cream cheese, custard, apple and chocolate flavors. Momiji manjū are considered the quintessential Hiroshima souvenir.

Hiroshima also has a lot of great Japanese and international restaurants, so you'll be able to find pretty much any kind of food you want in the city. If you're pressed for time on your way out of town, the sixth floor of JR Hiroshima Station has several restaurants, including STEP, a decent okonomiyaki joint with English menus. (There's also a McDonald's on the first floor of the tram side, and on the second floor of the shinkansen side.)
[edit] Budget

* Bikkuri Ramen (びっくりラーメン). The cheapest eats in town, at ¥180 for a, well, decent bowl of ramen. Take the price to ¥367 for six gyoza, or ¥598 to add a bowl of rice and some kara-age (fried chicken). There are two shops within a block of JR Hiroshima station, and a couple more near Hon-dori - look for the red and yellow '180' sign.

* Grazie Gardens (グラジエ　ガーデンズ). A cheap and tasty Italian on Hondori near Parco department store. It's above a shop called Ships.

* Okonomi-mura (お好み村). 3-3 Nakamachi, Naka-ku. A two-story building packed with no less than 27 okonomiyaki shops. It's right behind PARCO, with a distinctive 'Okonomi-mura' arch out front. They all serve okonomiyaki, and they'll all start clamoring for your business as soon as you walk through the door. Figure on ¥1000 for a meal.

* Okonomi Monogatari Ekimae-Hiroba (お好み物語駅前広場). Another okonomiyaki village, with almost twenty shops sharing the same floor, in a vaguely Edo-ish atmosphere. This one is across the street from JR Hiroshima station, next to the Fukuya department store and across from the central post office, on the 6th floor. (You'll see a banner sign outside.) Meals run about ¥900.

[edit] Mid-range

* Nanak, 2-2 Fukuromachi, Naka-ku, ☎ 082-243-7900. 10am-3pm, 5pm-10pm. Probably the biggest of Hiroshima's many good Indian restaurants. Individual sets are available, but ordering as a group is the best value. It's easily recognized by the uniformed fellow in the window booth facing the street, hard at work on the day's curry and oblivious to the passersby. English menus are available. Lunch sets from ¥700, dinner from ¥2300.

* Nono Budo, in the Sogo-Pacela Credo building. An all non-smoking, healthy "viking" buffet style Japanese restaurant in Pacela offering a ¥1575 for lunch (¥2100 for dinner) all you can eat & drink deal (no alcohol). A great selection of juices, teas, and coffees. If you want nomihōdai (飲み放題）(all you can drink) for alcohol, add on another 1900 yen. The menu offers a wide selection of curries, tempura, and other Japanese dishes, some made with organic products, most foods are made with ingredients from in and around Hiroshima.
* Roopali, Hiroshima-city, Higashi-ku, Wakakusacho 14-32, ☎ 082-264-1333. 11:30am-2:30pm, 5pm-9:30pm; Sundays 11:30am-9:30pm. The best food in the under-developed area on the shinkansen side of JR Hiroshima station - coming out of the gates, head up to the main street and turn right. It's about a block away. A wide range of curries are on offer, and there is plenty to eat for vegetarians. The thali sets are good and filling. Comprehensive English menus are available, and it's kid-friendly to boot. If you're just arriving in Hiroshima on an empty stomach, you can't get much better than this. Sets from ¥2000.

* Spicy Bar Lal's, Hiroshima-shi, Naka-ku, Tatemachi 5-12, ☎ 082-504-6328. 11am-2:30pm, 5pm-10pm. Indian and Nepali cuisine, with several good course dinners for individuals and pairs. Befitting the name, they're specific about their spiciness: you can choose a strength from 1-100. Basic English menus are available. It's just off Hon-dori, near the post office. Lunch sets from ¥880, dinner sets from ¥2100.

[edit] Splurge

* Floating Oyster Boat, Kanawa. Hiroshima is famous for oysters and this high class floating restaurant offers the highest quality oysters and seafood all year round. Wait staff serve in Kimonos and the view is romantic and relaxing. Located just across Peace Boulevard, South of Peace Park. Expect to pay ¥7,000-¥15,000 per person not including drinks.

* Shabuchin Shabu Shabu dip fresh meat and vegetables in a hot sauce to lightly cook it before dipping it in a savory sauce to eat. Small, friendly, family run shabu shabu restaurant in fashionable Jizo-dori. They make their own sauces and all the ingredients are of high quality and superfresh. Expect to pay from ¥3,000-¥5,000 per person including drinks.

* Sumojaya Takabayama Chanko Nabe- the food of sumo wrestlers is a filling, fun and healthy dish for anyone to enjoy, especially on colder days. Expect to pay ¥4,000-¥8,000 per person including drinks. Much cheaper lunch deals available.

[edit] Drink

Nagarekawa hosts the highest concentration of bars in Hiroshima, but there are a host of quiet wine bars on Hakushima-dori, and plenty of foreigner-friendly pubs around the giant PARCO building. Yagenbori-dori street is full of bars and clubs that are spread across all the floors of the high-rise buildings along the street.

* Kulcha is a popular bar just off Hondori. If you're walking towards Parco from Rijo-dori, take a right at Andersens. Walk one block down (past Daiei supermarket) and turn left. The bar is on the right. It's frequented mainly by foreign teachers and tourists and is known for its monthly theme parties and televised rugby and soccer games.

* Mac Bar is another bar worth visiting. The bar owner is chatty and has a substantial collection of rock CDs. He's only happy to take requests. Mac Bar is located in the Nagarekawa district, so be careful going there alone.

* Molly Malone's is another popular foreigner hang-out on Chuo-dori, across the street from PARCO. (Look for the giant orange neon .AU sign - that's the view from the windows inside the bar.) Rugby and soccer games are also shown here. It has a good menu of pub food, desserts and imported beer.

Saijo, in Higashi-Hiroshima, is famous for its sake and the annual Sake Festival in October. For a small admission fee, attendees can drink their fill of sake from local breweries. In short order, the festival area turns into a wild (yet reasonably well-behaved) display of public drunkenness involving people of all ages. Outside the festival area, tours of sake breweries are also available. Box-like wooden sake cups are available as souvenirs for your visit.
[edit] Sleep
[edit] Budget

* Business Ryokan Sansui, 4-16 Koami-cho Naka-ku, Hiroshima, Hiroshime Pref. 730-0855, ☎ 082-293-9051 (sansui@ccv.ne.jp, fax: 082-233-2377). Located a fair hike from JR Hiroshima Station but only a few minutes away from the Peace Park. The owners ask for reservations to be made three weeks in advance. Take tram 2 or 3 to the Koami-cho stop. ¥4200 single, ¥7500 double, ¥10,500 triple.

* Capsule Inn Hiroshima (カプセルイン広島), Yagenbori 4-6, ☎ 082-248-0101. Available only for male visitors. In the Shintechi Entertainment District, halfway between JR Hiroshima station and the Peace Memorial Park; on Aioi-dori, after M5 Kanayama-cho tram stop, turn left at the corner with a post office. Enter the sixth small street on the left. (There are actually two hotels on the both sides of the street.) Has a decent sento (hot bath) for guests. While many sento disallow tattooed guests, this one is fine with them. ¥2300 per capsule, ¥100 per hour for checking in early, and another ¥100 to put your passport/valuables in the safety deposit box behind the front desk.

* Hiroshima Youth Hostel, ☎ 082-221-5343, [8]. About the cheapest accommodation available in Hiroshima; the rate includes sheet and air conditioning charge. Off the beaten path, but well worth the savings. They do lock the doors at midnight, though. Take Bus #30 from JR Hiroshima Station. ¥2000 per night.

* Mikawa Ryokan, 9-6 Kyobashi-cho, Minami-ku, Hiroshima, Hiroshima Pref. 732-0828, ☎ 082-261-2719 (fax: 082-263-2706). About 7 minutes from JR Hiroshima Station. Has a dodgy claim to the title of "ryokan", but it's cheap. ¥3675 single, ¥6300 double, ¥9450 triple.

* Minshuku Ikedaya, 6-36 Dobashi-cho, Naka-ku, ☎ 082-231-3329. The rooms at this minshuku are clean, bright, and pleasant. The staff speak enough English to get you checked in, although you may not see a trace of them afterward. Take tram lines 2 or 6 to the Dobashi stop and walk about two minutes; look for the "Ikedaya" signs outside. Single rooms with/without bath from ¥4200 to ¥5775; double rooms from ¥7350 to ¥9450.

[edit] Mid-range

* Comfort Hotel Hiroshima (コンフォートホテル広島), 3-17 Komachi. Conveniently located near the Peace Park and opposite the Chuden-mae tram stop.

* Dormy Inn. Centrally located along Heiwa Odori, this is a comfortable and friendly full-service hotel with Western rooms, free laundry facilities (with soap) and a great Japanese style sento bath for guests to enjoy any time of day.

* Hiroshima Grand Intelligent Hotel, 1-4 Kyobashi-cho Minami-ku, 732-0828, ☎ 082-263-5111 (fax: 082-262-2403), [9]. A big (twelve floors), pleasant Western-style hotel on the other side of the Ekimae bridge from JR Hiroshima Station. Breakfast is served for ¥1350 buffet, ¥600 toast set. LAN internet access is available in every room. Rooms from ¥6195.

* Hiroshima Intelligent Hotel Annex, 3-27 Inari-machi Minami-ku, 732-0827, ☎ 082-263-7878 (fax: 082-263-7892), [10]. About halfway between JR Hiroshima Station and the Peace Memorial Park.

* Ikawa Ryokan, 5-11 Dobashi-cho, Naka-ku, Hiroshima, Hiroshima Pref. 730-0854, ☎ 082-231-5058 (ikawa@go.enjoy.ne.jp, fax: 082-231-5995). Take tram 2 or 3 from JR Hiroshima station to the Dobashi-cho stop. ¥5775-4725 single rooms with/without bath, ¥9450-8400 double, ¥14,175-12,600 triple.

* Toyoko Inn Heiwa Odori, [11]. An affordable business hotel on Heiwa Odori, and within walking distance from the Peace Park. Also has a small shuttle from Hiroshima Station. This is one of several Toyoko Inns in Hiroshima.

* Via Inn (Tel. 082-264-5489; single rooms from ¥6195) [12] is a tall business hotel with tiny rooms but a fair number of amenities. It's tucked away behind the Hiroshima Post Office, next to JR Hiroshima Station. Head between Kohi-kan and the Daily-In convenience store to find the front desk.

[edit] Splurge

* Hotel Granvia (1-5 Matsubara-cho, Minami-ku; Tel. 082-262-1111. Single, double and twin rooms from ¥10,700 - ¥20,200.) [13]. Located right outside the shinkansen gates of JR Hiroshima Station, this will be the most convenient hotel for any late-arriving travelers, but like the station, it's 10-15 minutes away from downtown and the Peace Park.
* Rihga Royal Hiroshima (6-78, Motomachi, Naka-ku, Tel. 082-502-1121. Single, double and twin rooms from ¥13,000 to ¥ 30,000.) [14]. Centrally located near Peace Park in the middle of downtown, near the Hiroshima Carp stadium, this is a luxury hotel. It is the tallest building in Hiroshima. Baseball fans take note: this is where visiting teams stay when they're in town, so the lobby is a good place to pick up autographs.

[edit] Contact

There are two 24-hour internet cafes next to JR Hiroshima Station. GIGA is on the sixth floor of the building immediately to your left as you walk out of the station. It serves free drinks and soft-serve ice cream for about ¥500 per hour. Just as for an "open seat". On the other side of the street, on the fifth floor of the building next to Fukuya and across the street from the post office, is the elegant A'precio, which serves an even wider variety of free drinks, ice cream and hot soup, and includes a pool table toward the back.
[edit] Stay safe

Hiroshima has a rough reputation among Japanese people from other cities, thanks largely to the 1971 Bunta Sugawara gangster classic Battles Without Honor and Humanity (also known as The Yakuza Papers) and its four sequels, which were filmed here. In reality, though, it's much safer than any large Western city. As with most places in Japan, scams and petty theft are virtually non-existent. The nightlife district does have its share of prostitutes, sex clubs and rip-off hostess bars, but to no less extent than Tokyo or Osaka. There have been a few surprise police raids on bars that offer dancing after 1am, in accordance with a semi-obscure local law about public immorality that Hiroshima suddenly feels compelled to enforce - probably in order to catch people who are in the country illegally. Japanese citizens are generally allowed to leave right away, but foreigners have been made to stand in line to have their paperwork checked. If you find yourself in one of these situations, just stay calm, show the police your passport, and you'll be allowed to leave without any trouble.
[edit] Cope
Mother and child, Peace Memorial Park
Mother and child, Peace Memorial Park

Hiroshima is a safe and friendly city, so travelers shouldn't have any problems out of the ordinary. The average English level among Hiroshima residents is relatively high for a Japanese city, particularly around the Peace Memorial Park. Directions to the major sights are also very clearly sign-posted in English throughout the city.

As mentioned above, visiting the sights related to the atomic bomb can be an intense experience. If you only have one day set aside for Hiroshima, you'll naturally wind up spending most of it at the atomic bomb memorials. For your own peace of mind, though, try to set aside time to relax and reflect in other parts of the city - either at one of the pleasant, sprawling parks around the city center, such as the one around Hiroshima Castle or Hijiyama-koen, or if your time is short, during a walk along one of the riverside trails, which are easy to reach from anywhere in the city.

Hiroshima is a very popular school trip destination for Japanese kids, and you're virtually guaranteed to be accosted by kids working on school projects, asking you (in halting English) where you're from, what your name is and whether you think nuclear bombs are a good thing. Good luck coming up with a snappy answer, but if their teacher is around, you can trying asking them back whether Japan would have used the bomb if they had come up with it first.
[edit] Get out

* Miyajima is an easy day-trip from Hiroshima - only a short tram and ferry trip away. It's one of the Three Great Views in Japan and has a UNESCO World Heritage Site - Itsukushima Shrine and the famous floating torii gate. It also offers some terrific hiking opportunities.

* A longer ferry ride could take you to Matsuyama for a day at the famed Dogo Onsen.

* Iwakuni, about 45 minutes away by train, features the famed Kintai-kyo samurai bridge and a scenic castle reconstruction - as well as a U.S. Marine Corps Air Station.

* Onomichi, a hillside town of temples and Japanese novelists, 75 minutes away by train.

* Okayama is the other major transit hub for the region, about 45 minutes by shinkansen, and it offers access to the museums and canal of Kurashiki.

* Aki no Kofuji. Off the beaten track, old style Japanese village, a great hike and wonderful views.

written by

garisti on April 1, 2008 from Hiroshima, Japan

from the travel blog: Viaje por Asia

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Chengdu (成都 Chéngdū; [1]) is the capital of Sichuan Province in south-west China.
[edit] Understand

Chengdu is located in the fertile plains of western Sichuan province. Due to its agricultural wealth Chengdu is sometimes called "Land of Milk and Honey". The Fulan river bisects the city although boat traffic, common until the 1960's, has all but disappeared. The greater city area is divided into five districts and 12 counties, altogether home to 9.2 million people.
[edit] Get in
[edit] By plane

The airport is located 20km outside of Chengdu. Chengdu airport is one of the main air hubs in China, ranked 5th in passenger volume. It has flights to most major cities in China and some international destinations including Amsterdam, Hong Kong, Bangkok, Phnom Penh, Singapore and Osaka. It serves flights to smaller cities within Sichuan Province, including the popular tourist destination Jiuzhaigou.

Taxi fare from the airport to the city center averages ¥45. There is no extra charge for luggage or additional passengers. Going from the city to the airport, add an additional ¥10 to cover the toll on the Airport Expressway. There is also bus no. 303, which will take you to the China Airlines office on Renmin Nanlu, right in the center of the city. It costs ¥10.

If you intend to take a taxi, be sure to turn LEFT when you exit the domestic arrival area toward the taxi stand and get in a marked, green-and-yellow or blue-and-yellow taxi. Turning right may lead you towards no-goods who are waiting to prey on foreign tourists with unmarked vehicles. Beware as these people sometimes sport official-looking ID, but is in reality fake. The fare offered will often exceed ¥100, and if you bargain with them, you may find yourself sitting in the cab for a while until agreeing to raise the price back up.
[edit] By train

The Chengdu railway station (成都火车北站) is located in the north of the city, a ¥15 taxi ride from the city center. Caution is advised in the neighborhood around the train station after dark.
[edit] By bus

For bus stations, there are three bus stations in Chengdu, and they serve different destinations:

* Chadianzi bus station (西门 Ximen), for Songpan and Jiuzhaigou Nature Reserve.

* Xinnanmen bus station (新南门汽车站), near the Traffic hotel, has daily buses heading to Leshan, Jiuzhaigou Nature Reserve, and Mount Emei and to Kangding in Kham.

* Wuguiqiao bus station, for Chongqing

From Chadianzi Bus Station
To Departure Price (Yuan) Duration (h) Last update
Dan Ba 7:00 ¥71 12 29 June 2005
Jiuzhaigou 7:20 8:00 8:40 14:00 ¥97.00-103.00 10 July 2006
Rilong 6:30 7:00 12:00 ¥43.00 5 29 June 2005
Ruo Ergai 7:00 7:20 ¥88.50 10 29 June 2005
Songpan 6:30 7:00 7:30 ¥74.00 8 July 2006
Wolong 11:40 ¥23.50 4 29 June 2005
From Xinnanmen Bus Station
To Departure Price (Yuan) Duration (h) Last update
Daocheng 10:00 ¥217.00 2 days 29 June 2005
Emei Shan 7:00-19:00 (every 20 min) ¥35.00 2-3 10 September 2006
Jiuzhaigou 8:00 ¥92.00 13 29 June 2005
Kangding 7:00-14:00 hourly ¥100.00 7 29 June 2005
Leshan 7:30-21:30 (every 20 min) ¥37.00 2-3 29 June 2005
Songpan 8:00 ¥74.00 9 29 June 2005

[edit] Get around

* Chengdu has an extensive system of city buses plying the streets. At each bus stop, there is a list of the bus lines coming through on this road, and on some city maps the whole network is displayed. Tickets are ¥1 for common and ¥2 for air-conditioned buses respectively.

* Taxis are equipped with meters, which should be used. A free taxi will display an illuminated sign with Chinese characters in its dashboard. Taxi fares at ¥5 on flagfall and increase at ¥1.4 per km. The meter records fares in increments of ¥1. Try to have small change on hand for taxi rides.

* There are bicycle-propelled pedicabs called san lun che (三轮车) who will take you short distances. Fix a price (¥4-10) in advance.

* Most guesthouses have bicycles for hire. Check for technical problems before starting out unless you want to be held responsible for it later. If you leave your bicycle, do so in one of the designated "parking lots", where it will be guarded over for a small fee. If you can't find such a place, be sure to lock it securely against some structure.

* A subway system[2] is under contstruction. The first line is slated to open in June of 2008. It will start at Tian Fu Square and extend southward down Ren Min Nan road.

[edit] See

* Panda Research Base is the biggest facility of this kind in the world. Due to habitat destruction and other reasons, the Panda Bear is maybe the most famous endangered animal. The Research Base is home to some 60 giant Pandas, but also has some Red Pandas and a colony of black-necked cranes. The Research Center affords views of the pandas from much closer than is possible at many Western zoos. Be sure to bring your camera. The Research Base also has a small museum and a cinema screening related documentaries. A restaurant and souvenir-stalls top off the tourist installations. To get there on your own, you can take a taxi for about ¥35 from downtown Chengdu. Or, catch a northbound bus Nr.1 (¥1) and stay with it until the local bus-terminal. Leave the local bus-terminal through the exit leading to the long distance-terminal (LDT), but do not enter the latter. Instead, wait for the suburbian public bus Nr.1 to come by and stop at the left corner of the LDT. For another ¥1 it will take you to the Panda research center within 20 min. Get off when you see a big white Panda-Statue in the middle of the street. Admission fee is ¥30. The best time to visit is in the morning, when pandas are most active. It is possible to take your picture while holding a Red Panda for a fee of ¥50; occasionally during the morning you can take a pictures alongside a giant panda for a fee of ¥400 per person. Knowledgable English-speaking tour guides can be hired at the office by the Base entrance. The cost for a guide for a small group is ¥100.

* Chengdu Zoo The Zoo, located in the north of the city near the Panda Research Base, offers all the typical animals that one might expect in a zoo (elephant, tigers, giraffes, monkeys, as well as panda bears). While the zoo itself is large and spread out, some of the cages are woefully small and the facility seems understaffed. Might be good for a family to visit. Admission is ¥12 per adult. The zoo has vendors selling Chinese snacks as well as some carnival type rides.

* Sichuan Science and Technology Museum[3] (四川科技馆 ) Located directly behind the Chiarman Mao statue in the city center's Tian Fu Square, this huge 4 storey museum is filled with interactive exhibits about science, aerodynamics, space, mathematics, robotics and physics. Children will love the interactive displays and indoor playground on the 4th floor. Adults will appreciate the descriptions in both English and Chinese. Everyone will love the crowd-pleasers like the robotic orchestra and walk-through maps of Sichuan's waterways. Admission is ¥35 per adult, free for children. To get there, take a taxi or bus to Tian Fu Square and walk to the large building directly behind the Chairman Mao statue. Note: During weekdays this museum can be overrun by local school groups.

* Sichuan University Museum (四川大学博物馆 sichuan daxue bowuguan）[4] has an excellent display of local artifacts and is worth while way of spending an hour or two. The museum is one of the better in China and there are four floors of well lite, air conditioned displays with decent English translations. Starting in the basement, enter the first room where dozens of stone carvings dating from the Han dynasty to the Tang are on display. The room next door has a moderately interesting display on the museum's history and numerous examples of ancient bronzes and stone age artifacts. The first floor is mostly artifacts from the Ming and Qing dynasty, including furniture, silk clothing, and an interesting display of leather puppets. The second floor has the perhaps the most engaging display: artifacts and daily use items from ethnic minority groups in China's southwest, including Tibetans, Miao, Yi, Qiang, Jianpo and Naxi. The third floor has a decent display of calligraphy scrolls, paintings, and ceramics. The museum is located on Wangjiang Road (望江路), about a 15 minute ride from Xinnanmen bus station or a 40 minute walk. Admission is ¥10 and the museum is open from 9:00-5:00 seven days a week. It's telephone number is (028）5412313.

(Information as of 26 July 2006)

* Sichuan Opera Most guesthouses and travel agencies offer to arrange visits to these traditional shows. It's more like a burlesque cabaret than an actual opera, sometimes including magicians, musicians and dancers besides the traditional pieces. Of course the most famous is never omitted: face-changing and firespitting performed by dancers clad in colourful traditional costumes. You will follow the story sitting at your table, sipping on your constantly refilled tea cup and nibbling some salted snacks.
(Information as of 28 June 2005)

* Jin Li This neighborhood is part of the old city of Chengdu, it features hotels and small stores in and old-fashioned style. Antiques are sold in a variety of different stores. It is very popular among both tourists and locals, especially at night, with many bars and nightclubs.

[edit] Do

* Massage / Foot Washing Chengdu has establishments that offer massage or foot washing. Generally, these places cater to groups of people who come in together, relax in a private room, perhaps eating fruit or sipping tea, while receiving a fully-clothed massage or foot washing. Prices are very reasonable, often well under Y100 per person. A great way to relax with friends.

For up-to-date information on activities, places and attractions you should check out the "GoWest"-magazine's listings. You'll find copies in most bars or guesthouses.
[edit] Learn

The following universities accept foreign students (with the proper visa):

* Sichuan University
* Sichuan Normal University

* Those interested in ongoing, private classes in the Chinese language can hire a experienced teacher for ¥40-¥85 per hour. Ask for a referral at one of the universities, or from another student. Textbooks for learning Chinese are available at many local bookshops.

[edit] Work

* Job postings for English teachers are located in many guest houses, at Western bars and restaurants, anywhere foreigners congregate.
* The Peace Corps [5] has its China headquarters in Chengdu and places highly selected and qualified US Citizen volunteers in 2 year assignments throughout the region.

[edit] Buy

* There is a big antiquities-market close to the Green Ram Taoist-temple in the western city. From the temple, walk straight west. It's on your right hand side after you crossed the bridge over the channel. You'll find communist relics, old porcelain dishes, jewellery, calligraphy equipment and also some Tibetan stuff. Be warned that overpricing is excessive (10-20x the real price), so bargain hard.

* All sorts of plush pandas, and other panda trinkets, are sold at the gate of the panda base, as well as ones of a slightly higher quality at the shop inside the panda base itself.

* Supermarkets are located throughout the city, although the selection of imported foods is limited. If you must buy American food, and don't mind a 50% premium over US prices, Sabrina's Country Store at #54 Ke Hua Bei Lu, across from the western gate of Sichuan University and near Linshiguan Lu has friendly service and all imported products. Phone 8524-2987.

* Major retailers Cerrefour, Metro and Wal Mart have locations in Chengdu.

[edit] Eat

Sichuan being the most known Chinese food style within China, you will find no shortage of delicious Sichuan food in Chengdu. Most of the food is quite spicy, be sure to order non spicy (不要辣 bú yào là) or little spicy (微辣 wēi là) food, at least if you are not accustomed to it yet, or have a bottle of peanut milk ready to quell the fire. The local king of kings is the Hotpot, basically a big pot of oil, water and spices simmering in a hole in the middle of your table. Patrons choose from a big variety of skewered food including veggies, sea-weed, fish, beef, chicken, and dog's meat and proceed to boil them in the oil. After the meal, your bill will be calculated by counting the skewer-sticks.
[edit] Budget

* There are a number of stalls and hole in the wall type places all over town. Food here is dirt cheap - expect to pay no more than ¥8 for a meal, and the quality is good. Things to be on the lookout for are spicy bowls of breakfast noodles, double cooked pork, and dozens of dishes coated in "ma" the Sichuan chili spice famous the world over.

* There's an excellent place serving Uighur Food across the street from Sam's Guesthouse. Buns, noodles and more.

* Steamed buns (baozi) are sold for breakfast or lunch from street vendors throughout the city. Typical fillings you can request include meat, read bean paste, mushroom, or pork. Cost for 3 buns is ¥1. A container of soy milk (dou jiang) is about the same price.

[edit] Mid-range

* WenShu-Temple Vegetarian Restaurant is run by the monks of the monastery and offers a huge selection of vegetarian food, including dishes imitating meat-dishes. You can order special group courses if you can sum up about 10 people and check in advance. (86) 28-6938703

[edit] Splurge

* Bridge Restaurant This restaurnt is actually a historic bridge over the Fulan river. Sichuan food. Very good reputation within Chengdu. Expect to pay at least US$10 per person for food, drinks additional.

[edit] Western Food

Chengdu has a few local Western restaurants. Service is always friendly, although you should expect occasional mistakes, such as appetizers served at the same time as your meal. Chengdu is just starting to get accustomed to Western tastes.

* The Chengdu Bookworm[6] The Bookworm has something for everyone: it is an English language lending library, a Western restaurant, a bar, as well as an occasional venue for local singing and musical talent. Expats might want to join the membership library or take kids to the children's morning storey hours. Evenings, you might find a travel author reading from and signing books, poetry reading, or singing. Great place for to connect with others, catch up on some reading, or just relax.

* Grandma's Kitchen Western restauant with four locations around Chengdu, including one next door to Peter's on Zhong Hua Yuan.

* Peter's Tex-Mex Actually an American restaurant with some Mexican dishes. Peter's has good food. The Zhong Hua Yuan location （028） 85180903 also has homemade ice cream, the best ice cream you will find in Chengdu. If you are coming from out of town, the Zhong Hua Yuan location is right in a major expat area with lots of other restaurants and shopping surrounding it.

* Zoe's Barbeque & Restaurant 30 Renmin Nanlu 4th Section(人民南路四段30号) （028） 85593345 [7] - Southern American BBQ and more. Good food and good service, plus wireless internet.

* Fast food including McDonalds, KFC and Pizza Hut have locations throughout Chengdu. McDonalds and Pizza Hut add some distinctively Chinese offerings to their menus. Unusual cultural tidbit: At Pizza Hut only one trip to the salad bar is allowed per person. Notice how many Chinese turn their salad plates into artistic creations, stacked high with vegetables to share.

* All of the hotels in the "Splurge" category have Western restaurants or buffets. Call ahead for more information.

[edit] Drink

On the southern bank of the Jin Jiang there is a row of bars between Renmin Nanlu and Xinnan Lu.

* Highfly Cafe, 18 LinJiang Rd, 028-85442820 is a relaxed place with a tiny outside sitting area. They serve beers and western food including pizza and breakfast. There is one computer for free Internet access and a small book exchange (2 for 1).

* Feeling4Seasons Cafe [8], Orient Times Mall 2F, Xia dongda street (near Dongmen bridge), Chengdu. Phone 028-66208848. Good Italian coffee: espresso, cappuccino, especially latte. Also pasta and pizza. They also provide Internet service: wireless access for your laptop, loan of a wireless card if you don't have one, use of a PC if required. You can also burn CDs. It is also one famous China blog freelancer's cafe bar; he published a book named "Ten Years, Flying with one Dream".

* Shamrock Pub [9], #15, 4th Section, Renmin Nan Lu, 028-8523-6158 ( located near Linshiguan Lu and the US Consulate), an Irish pub in Chengdu is currently the hub of Chengdu's small expatriate community (of approximately 3,000). Friendly pub atmosphere and live music some evenings. In addition to drinks the pub serves dishes including pizza and other snacks. The pub has also sponsored several nonprofit organizations, including holding events for moon bear rescue and for the disabled. Copies of the informative Chengdu Sichuan book are available at the Shamrock.

* High Connections Coffee House [10] is located on the west side of Chengdu near Metro and the Southwest Financial University at Qingyang Qu Shuangqing Nanlu 6 Hao Fu A-20, 028-8732-5855. The coffeehouse provides a relaxing, comfortable, environment with soft lighting and easy-listening music. They have non-smoking and smoking sections. Bring your computer and hook up to the wireless Internet. They also have large conference rooms available for meetings.

[edit] Sleep
[edit] Budget

* Chengdu Jason's Nest Guest House (成都驴行天下青年旅舍), No.26 west way of south railway station, 0086-28-85125498, [11]. Fully-equipped hostel with spacious bright rooms, clean bunks, the Tibetan-style dining room and bar. Located in the leisure, entertainment, dining center of Chengdu, with most attractions within a ¥10 taxi ride. It's a ¥30 taxi ride from the airport or north rail station, a 10-minute walk from the south station, or call for a free pick-up. Helpful, very knowledgeable staff.

* Traffic Hotel (交通饭店; No. 6 Linjian St, 成都市临江路6号; tel. 028-85451017; [12]), conveniently placed just near Renmin Nanlu directly bordering the Xinnanmen bus station. This hotel is one hundred percent geared towards foreign backpackers and is a good place to around a tour or buy tickets. Four-bed dorms rooms are ¥30 per bed and three-bed dorms are ¥40. The rooms and shared bathrooms for ¥40 are very clean and come with a reliable air conditioner. Washing machines are available for ¥10 per load; bring your own detergent. Singles and doubles start at ¥200 and range up to ¥500.

* Chengdu Mix Hostel (Backpackers' Accommodation, Guesthouse & Youth Hostel) 成都驴友记青年旅舍, No.23 Xing Hui Xi Lu, Ren Jia Wan, Wan Fu Bridge, Chengdu, Sichuan, P.R.China. [13] [14], E-mail:mixhostel@hotmail.com. In downtown, with cheap beds, good shower, nice food, lots of people! Wi-fi for laptop, DVDs for you, free Internet, 20GB of Music, very friendly staff.

* Dragon Town Youth Hostel 成都市宽巷子27号, 27 Kuanxiangzi St, tel. 028-86648408, fax 028-86245901, reception@dragontown.com.cn, [15]. A five minute walk north of the Renmin park. Serving younger people and families, catering mostly for young western budget tourists. Many travelling services available from within the hostel, such as tours to nearby attractions, Tibet travel tours. Facilities include Internet access, restaurant and camp grounds. Cheapest accommodation is ¥15/bed with rooms starting from ¥100.

* Sam's Guesthouse 130 Shanxi Jie, samtour@yahoo.com: tel.028-86099022, 10 minutes walk from the Chairman Mao Statue at Renmin Nanlu. Look for Rongcheng Fandian (Rongcheng hotel). Sams Guesthouse office is next to the entrance to the Rongcheng Fandian. Rooms start from ¥80. Doubles are ¥120.

* Sim's Cozy Guesthouse 42 Xizhushi, tel :028-86288691, mobile: 8613980787075, simscozy@hotmail.com, [16] is close to Wenshu temple in the northern part of town. Opened in 2004 by two experienced travellers, it's located in a nice old house and has a fairly big seating area and a small garden. Care has been taken to avoid the typical pains of the traveller's everyday life, so for instance toilets are equipped with paper, there is a lockable security box at your bed, mosquito-coils adorn the rooms and corridors, the bar provides guitars and cold beers and so on. Staff is extremely friendly and helpful. They do arrange tours to several sights. There is Internet access for ¥5 per hour. A dorm bed is ¥15, doubles and triples with/without air-con are from ¥70 to ¥120. If you don't want to stay in the dorm, is advisable to make a reservation some days in advance.

* Xiaoguanyuan Hotel (小观园 xiǎoguānyuán), 成都市宽巷子40号, 40 Kuanxiangzi St, tel. 028-86640663, 028-86639883, 028-86640241. Beautiful garden and classical architectured hotel. Staff is Chinese speaking only though, but with a good location and rooms starting from ¥100, a very good offer. Just 50m from the Dragon Town Youth hostel. As at February 2007, Kuanxiangzi Lu is undergoing extensive reservations, and it appears that Xiaoguanyuan Rest House has closed down.

* The Loft Located three blocks north of Dragon Town Hostel. Very modern hostel. Use to be a printing factory but now converted to a contemporary style hostel. Has free pool table, free Internet access (Nov.2006), TV and DVD. Rooms are clean. Twins and doubles cost ¥120.

[edit] Mid Range

The vast majority of Chengdu's mid-range hotels are not afiliated with a national or international brand and generally charge between RMB 300 to RMB 700 per night. The hotels in this category can generally put up the facade of the more luxurious hotels, but often suffer noticeably from deferred maintenance or haphazard customer service. Many are geared mostly towards Chinese and Asian tour groups. The hotels listed below are the best of the bunch with lobby staff who speak at least a basic level of English and usually offer a free Chinese breakfast.

* Sunjoy Hotel #34, 4th Section of Renmin nan lu. The Sunjoy is a 7 story hotel with a nice Chinese restaurant, good facilities and small but nice rooms. Chinese breakfast provided. Located near US Consulate. About RMB400/night.

* Jin Jiang Inn [17] Part of a China-wide hotel chain; 3 locations in Chengdu; the South Chengdu Yulin location is near Ren Min Nan Road and the US Consulate. Good value for money with rooms from ¥129-179 per night. Rooms are small but clean and well apportioned. Breakfast and free internet provided. Secure lobby area and friendly staff.

* Super 8 Hotel[18] In the SOHO Building, #60 Ke Hua Bei Lu, phone 86-28-85250058. Located above an enclosed shopping arcade, near the Western Gate of Sichuan University. Free internet. No breakfast. Rooms are small and poorly designed and priced from ¥139-188 per night.

[edit] Splurge

Chengdu's luxury hotels provide world class service at very reasonable prices. Business and leisure travelers can expect, at a minimum, to find fluent English speaking staff, Western and Chinese restaurants, full conference facilities, business center, sauna and concierge service at all of these hotels. Room rates range from US$105 - $US200 per night for a standard or deluxe room. The Kempinski and the Jin Jiang hotel are generally the lowest price within this category.

* Chengdu Lido Sheraton[19] Modern, American managed hotel conveniently located in in the center of Chengdu near Tian Fu Square and the sports stadium, but a few blocks away from shopping districts. This hotel can accommodate the most discriminating of guests in luxury and world class service.

* Sofitel Chengdu[20]: French managed, overlooks Fulan river, similar to but more expensive than the Sheraton.

* Jin Jiang Hotel[21]: Chengdu's first international luxury hotel, the Jin Jiang still offers good service. While it has been eclipsed in luxury by the newer hotels listed in this section, it offers reasonable room rates and great service, with good facilities for conferences of all sizes.

* Kempinski Hotel[22]: German managed hotel offers hospitality and luxury. Great German events, including Ocktoberfest, Christmas and New Year's parties. Excellent gym, pool and workout facilities. Close to the United States Consulate.

* Holiday Inn Crowne Plaza Hotel[23]: The Holiday Inn goes all out to indulge its guests with the finest of service. Great service, very responsive management.

[edit] Contact
[edit] Consulates

* United States Consualte General[24] (美国驻成都总领事馆) #4 Linshiguan Lu, Chengdu. Phone 8558-3992. American Citizen Services hours Monday-Thursday 1:30pm-5:00pm, Fridays 9:00-4:00pm.

* Royal Thai Consulate[25] (泰国驻昆明总领事馆驻成都办事处) Located in the Kempinski Hotel: 42 Renmin Nan Rd. 4th Section C210-212, Sichuan 610041

* German Consulate General (德意志联邦共和国驻成都总领事馆) 25th Floor of Western Tower located at No. 19, 4th Section Renmin Nan Road, Chengdu 610041, Tel: (0086-28)8528 0800 Fax: (0086-28) 8526 8308

* Consulate General of Singapore (新加坡驻成都总领事馆) 31/F East Guan Cheng Square, No.308, Shun Cheng Main Street, Chengdu. Phone 86 28 8652 7222

* Consulate General of the Republic of Korea (韩国驻成都总领事馆) No. 2, Wangfu Oasis Hotel, Xianan Main Street of Chengdu. Phone 86 28 8616 5800

[edit] Phone

China's country code is 86. Chengdu's area code is 28. Coin-operated pay phones are located throughout Chengdu, and calling cards can be purchased from many vendors. Local landline phone numbers are eight digits long; cellular phone numbers in Sichuan are elevin digits long and start with 13.
[edit] Internet

Internet access can be found in most guesthouses and through cheap internet cafes all over town. Look out for the Pacman-character 吧 in the Chinese name for internet bar: 网吧.

* A large Internet cafe is located on the second floor of the Xinnianmen bus station, just 100 meters from the Jiaotong Fandian hotel. The connection is fast and access is ¥2/hour.

[edit] Stay safe

Thieves are prevalent around certain areas of Chengdu. Be careful around the Yanshikou markets and especially around the North train station. There are also many thieves on crowded buses who use razors to cut open pockets and bags. Also watch your bag at all times when riding bicycles around the city, thieves like to run alongside bicycles at traffic lights and reach into bags.
[edit] Cope

For such a big city, there's surprisingly little Western influence in Chengdu. It's definitely not Beijing or Shanghai. This might at first be a little trying, as the level of English is spoken is noticeably lower than other places, but it's really a blessing. Carry a phrasebook or get a guide, and enjoy a more authentic Chinese urban experience!
[edit] Get out

Chengdu is the gateway to Sichuan. Daytrips and trek can be organized to any major attraction is the province. The Giant Budda, Mount Qincheng, Stone Elephant Lake and Jian Chuan Museum can all be reached by regular bus or tour bus (ask your hotel for guidance). Families and those short of time might consider hiring a car with driver (¥300-900 per day, depending upon type of car and experience of driver, with cars booked at the luxury hotels the most expensive and highest quality).

* The Giant Buddha in Leshan is probably the most popular nearby destination. A day trip to this ancient man-made wonder should be about ¥100-150. Two day tours are available which combine the Buddha with a visit to the nearby Buddhist holy mountain Emei Shan.

* Mount Qincheng and the Dujiangyan irrigation system (built 250 BC) are easy day trips about 40km from Chengdu and make for a fascinating visit. You can do both sites in one long day, or better yet, plan to spend a day at each. Qingchen is a beautiful mountain with an extensive and well kept network of steps and pathways, and includes many pogadas, a small lake, and a chair-lift for those who don't want to walk. Dujianyan has a fascinating history and a marvelous swinging pedestrian bridge. Both trips involve lots of walking. The entrance fees for both sites are not cheap. The mountain is ¥90. The cable car up is ¥35 one way or ¥60 round trip. There is a boat one needs to take to cross a natural pond for ¥5. The irrigation system costs an additional ¥90 to enter.

* Stone Elephant Lake Ecological Resort(石象湖) [26] is a fantastic park with acres upon acres of live tulips and tiger lily flowers as well as nature walks and boat rides, and stone carved animals. The best time to go is during the Tulip Festival in early Spring and when the Tiger Lillies bloom in late summer, however, various flowers are usually in bloom from March through August and the nature walks are open year round. Bring your camera. Also bring a picnic lunch or eat in one of the several Chinese restaurants and noodle shops there. The park is about an hour and 15 minutes drive of pure highway driving south of Chengdu. Arrange a car to take you there or ask about bus service. Admission is ¥50.

* Jian Chuan Museum Cluster Industrialist Fan Jian Chuan built this campus of museums to explain the history of 20th Century China. This is the first privately owned museum in Sichuan (privately operated museums in China have only been permitted since the year 2001). The Museum campus contains four buildings about World War II in China - one explaining the Communist Party role, one the Kuomington, one about the American volunteer group "Flying Tigers", and one about Sichuan volunteers. There is also a the modestly named "New China Porcelian Museum", which actually tells the story of the Cultural Revolution through porcelians of that era. A museum that more directly addresses that era is under construction. You will also see buildings explaining the practice of foot-binding and one about prisoners of war. Nearby, you can also walk through a landlord's manor. Make a day trip out of it; the Musuem is in the nearby county of Dayi about an hour's drive from Chengdu. Admission is ¥60. Get around the museum cluster by walking or rent a bicycle built for two; a tea-house is located on site.

* Bi Feng Xia[27] Bi Feng Xia is a large ecological park in the mountains about a two and a half hour drive from Chengdu. It centers around a huge gorge with waterfalls. One can hike down into the gorge on well marked paths and take an elevator back up. The park also has special panda bear habitats, as well as a more traditional "zoo". The main reason to go here is for the walks and hikes into the gorge. The zoo, although filled with animals such as tigers, lions, bears, monkeys, and even a drive-through section, has woefully inadequate and sometimes smelly enclosures. (The enormous bird aviary is one exception). Admission is about ¥80, with additional charges for bus rides between different sections of the park. There is a hotel and basic restaurants on site. Given the distance from Chengdu, probably best to make an overnight trip if you wish to stay here.

* Further afield, you can also trek out to the Tibetan areas of Sichuan. Buses leave everyday for Moxi and other towns. These long bus trips from Xinnanmen-bus station (it's about seven hours to Moxi, and the heating systems on buses in the winter are painfully inadequate) pass through incredibly steep mountain valleys wandering through the Gongga Mountain range. This all terminates at the Hailuogo Glacier, a massive park nearly nine hours from Chengdu. A good two or three day trip.

* To the north there are the Sichuan horse plains and the Jiezhaigou Valley.

Train connections are available to Kunming in Yunnan, Chongqing and Xi'an. Frequent buses also leave for Chongqing, which is the beginning of many cruises down the Yangtze. These tours are available around town in Chengdu, and include transport to Chongqing, about three or four hours away.

written by

garisti on May 1, 2008 from Chengdu, China

from the travel blog: Viaje por Asia

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