Until 1840, Western "barbarians" were allowed to trade only in Guangzhou, and only under strict controls. After China lost the First Opium War, Britain took Hong Kong and China was forced to open five "Treaty Ports": Guangzhou, Xiamen, Fuzhou, Ningbo and Shanghai.

In Xiamen, the island Gulang Yu became a foreign enclave with consulates and luxurious homes. Today it is a quiet area (no cars or motorcycles) and five minutes by ferry from downtown, and still quite scenic.

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Fujian was a focus of missionary activity. There are still many historic churches in the region.

In the 1970s, Xiamen was made a Special Economic Zone to encourage development. This has worked. Xiamen has more Taiwan investment than any other mainland city, partly because the Minnan dialect spoken around Xiamen is nearly identical to Taiwanese. There is also a major influx of other foreign investment.

It is not Shanghai or Hong Kong, but compared to many other cities in China, Xiamen is definitely a very vibrant, affluent and modern place.
[edit] Get in

Xiamen has an international airport, code XMN, conveniently close to downtown, 30-40 RMB and 20 minutes by taxi.

* If you are flying to Xiamen from North America, consider Korean Air. They offer great discounts, and the Seoul Airport is the most user-friendly on the planet (free internet, nice free lounges with couches to stretch out on.
* If you are coming from elsewhere, look for cheap flights direct to Xiamen from Singapore or Bangkok. see Discount airlines in Asia for more information.

There are also expected train and bus services of any major city. The train however, is not a good option for trips along the coast — for example to Fuzhou, Shantou or Hong Kong — because it takes a circuitous route through the mountains. For those destinations, use the bus.

Some bus times and costs:

* Quanzhou: 35 RMB, 1.5 hours
* Fuzhou: 70-90 RMB, 4 hours
* Hong Kong, Guangzhou, Shenzhen or Zhuhai: around 300, overnight.
o There is a bus direct to Xiamen from Hong Kong airport.
o For trips to/from Hong Kong, try to choose a bus that goes all the way. With some tickets, you have to change busses at the Hong Kong - Shenzhen border.

You may come across references to a ferry service with Hong Kong. It no longer operates (as of November 2004).
[edit] Get around

Taxis are cheap and start at 8 yuan for the first 3 kilometers. The local bus system is very good, but the bus routes are listed in Mandarin and do not have English on them. Take the ferry to Gulangyu.
[edit] See

You could enjoy Xiamen's unique sceneries not only in the day but also in the night. Take a breather and walk beside the Yuandang lake in the evening and you could see how Xiamen transforms into a different setting - mushrooming lighted artistic sculptures, scent of the sea, and romantic lovers by the lake. Enjoy your stroll and notice that some residential and commercial buildings even have a "battle of the lights at night" (which is actually a battle of the business) - "simple" laser and light shows which attract attention - this is some form of an "advertisement" mostly by newly opened commercial buildings and some residentials to say that their business has opened or that business is ongoing as usual. When it's time for commercial businesses and residentials to close or "sleep" in the night, the simple lights attraction can't be seen anymore - this is one of those on-going efforts of the people on energy conservation. Be sure to see these places of interest, and see what are the differences viewing them during the day and night:

* Zhongshan road - see the yearly "facelifts" and notice that older buildings are becoming extinct and being replaced by modern ones
* The night markets - see how smaller businesses trade in the night.
* Public parks - are clean and set with greeneries.
* Yuandang lake - is mystical by day and magical by night, see how the egrets flock in the day and fly for home in the night.
* Bai Lu Zhou Park - a large and beautiful park. Go around 8:30 p.m. and enjoy the vendors, music, and dancing.

Xiamen is a most popular tourist city in Mainland China.
[edit] Buy

Check out the Xiamen Shopping A to Z section. Outside of China: http://amoymagic.com/shop.htm Within China: http://amoymagic.mts.cn/shop.htm
[edit] Eat

* There is a whole strip of cafes and bars along the lake next to the Marco Polo Hotel, more-or-less all with patios and/or balconies that give a view of the lake.
o Geo Geo Cafe, furthest from the hotel in that strip, serve good Italian and American food and coffee.
* On the side street off the lake by the hotel are several more places:
o Tutto Bene, a very good Italian place
o Javaroma, good coffee, run by an Aussie
* Local Chinese Restaurants
o Little Chili's offers excellent Chinese food at an affordable price. The menus are in Enlgish.

[edit] Drink
[edit] Sleep

Gulang Yu is the place to stay if you desire a peaceful and attractive environment. There are several home hotels on this island. Naya Home Hotel [1] is recommended if you are looking for complete relaxation and homey treatment.
[edit] Budget
[edit] Mid-range

* Gem Hotel, [2]. Beautiful Japanese-style rooms overlooking much of downtown Xiamen. Includes (Chinese) buffet breakfast and free (wired) Internet access. Most of the staff speak English well and are extremely helpful. From ¥140/night.

[edit] Splurge

* Lujiang Hotel is a grand old place, very central on Beach road, 100 metres North of the ferry station. The restaurant has excellent dim sum.
* Sheraton Xiamen Hotel is the latest international chain hotel to grace Xiamen's shores. It's very plush, and the Waves Pan Asian buffet is excellent.
* Sofitel Plaza Xiamen is super modern. The rooms use a lot of glass, if you're into that kind of thing.
* Marco Polo Hotel is the nicest hotel in Xiamen with a wonderful international buffet and great atmosphere.
* Riyuegu Hotsprings Resort is probably the most beautiful resort in Xiamen. Besides the regular accommodations, the resort also contains an exotic hot springs park. They have all sorts of flavors (like milk, rose, tea, etc.) mixed into their natural hot springs water. They also have a fantastic spa. It is worth a trip.

[edit] Contact

The area code for Xiamen is 0592. When calling from overseas, dial +86 592 XXXX-XXXX ]]> Thu, 01 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=694 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=6628 0 24.4675 118.0930556 While Guangzhou is not usually high on the list of Asian tourist destinations, it is amazing how much the city actually has to offer.
Locals on the run outside the Grandview Plaza in Tianhe District. In the background is the 80-story CITIC Plaza.
Locals on the run outside the Grandview Plaza in Tianhe District. In the background is the 80-story CITIC Plaza.
Nightlife at Shangxiajiu in Liwan District.
Nightlife at Shangxiajiu in Liwan District.
[edit] Districts
Guangzhou Maps
Layout of Guangzhou
Layout of Guangzhou
Western central Guangzhou in detail (Liwan)
Western central Guangzhou in detail (Liwan)

Eastern central Guangzhou in detail (Yuexiu and Tianhe)
Eastern central Guangzhou in detail (Yuexiu and Tianhe)

The official list consists of the following 10 districts:

* Liwan (荔湾 Lìwān) - This is the old Guangzhou, and is combined with the old Fangcun (芳村 Fāngcūn) area in the southwest. Tourist highlights include the colonial Shamian Island, Xiguan Old Houses, and Shangxiajiu Shopping districts.
* Yuexiu (越秀 Yuèxiù) - This is the political and cultural center, including the old Dongshan (东山, Dōngshān) area. Highlights include Yuexiu Park, Beijing Lu Shopping District, and Huanghuagang Martyrs Memorial Park.
* Haizhu (海珠 Hǎizhū) - Located south of the Pearl River, the district is becoming more business focus, especially in the areas of Real Estate and trading. Locals refer to this part of Guangzhou as Henan, meaning south of the river. Highlights include the Canton Fair Pazhou Exhibition Center, Sun Yat-Sen University, and Pearl River Harbor Walk along the river.
* Tianhe (天河 Tiānhé) - This is the new city center. It is an area with many new developments, including skyscrapers like the Citic Plaza. Highlights include Dongzhan Square and many shopping centers.
* Baiyun (白云 Báiyún) - The district has a big rural touch, but is slowly taken over by new developments, including the new airport. Highlights include the Baiyun Mountain.
* Huangpu (黄埔 Huángpǔ) - Not well known for foreign tourists, the district is the secondary center of eastern part of the city. Highlights include the former Huangpu Military Academy.
* Panyu (番禺 Pānyú) - This is the new area focusing on technology and economic development. Highlights include the Lianhua Mountain, two wild animal theme parks and the new University City.
* Huadu (花都 Huādū) - This is a developing industrial area. Highlights include the Huadu Square.
* Nansha (南沙 Nánshā) - This is an industrial area at the southern tip of the city. It offers little to tourists.
* Luogang (萝岗 Luógǎng) - This is the designated center of the eastern part of the city, famous for its plum forest. It is not a popular tourist destination, but it has some historical sites.

In addition to the 10 districts, two nearby cities have been drafted into Guangzhou's jurisdiction:

* Zengcheng (增城 Zēngchéng) - This city is famous for its lychee fruit, which are picked in the months of June and July.
* Conghua (从化 Cónghuà) - This city is known for its hot springs and Tian (Heavenly) Lake Recreation area.

The main tourist areas and metropolitan areas are in the northern part of the city, including Liwan, Yuexiu and Tianhe. (see Maps)
[edit] Understand
Location of Guangzhou in China

At first sight, Guangzhou appears less a city that's developing than one that's about to explode. Every corner seems packed with high-rise buildings, overpasses, and people running a marathon. It can be overwhelming, and the initial instinct of many travelers is to get out as soon as possible. However, those that overcome this urge and stay longer will discover a gentler and more personable side to the city.

As a major entry point for overseas culture for many centuries, foreigners are not the anomaly here that they are in other Chinese cities. Consequently, travelers are afforded more personal space and freedom. In addition, tucked away in the back streets, the old Guangzhou of traditional neighborhoods still moves at an age-old pace, with families and friends often sitting outdoors enjoying tea and banter.

Guangzhou also boasts the largest urban park in China, an island of refurbished colonial buildings and some world class galleries and exhibition spaces. In addition, possibly due to the distance from the country's political centers, the citizens of Guangzhou have developed a laid-back and play-hard approach to life.

Today, Guangzhou is recognized as one of China's most prosperous, liberal, and cosmopolitan cities. However, despite being an international trading hub, there is a lack of English signs, and outside the business districts and tourist spots, very few locals converse well in English.
[edit] History

Formerly known as Canton in the West, the city of Guangzhou has a history dating back around 2,500 years.

Although the actual origins of the city are lost in the mists of time, the most popular legend tells of five celestial beings riding into the area that is now Guangzhou on five rams and carrying sheaves of rice. The celestials bestowed blessings on the land and offered the sheaves to the people of the city as a symbol of prosperity and abundance. After the celestials left, the rams turned into stone, and Guangzhou quickly developed into an affluent and influential city. Due to this legend, Guangzhou has gained several popular nicknames: Yangcheng (City of Rams), Suicheng (Sheaves of Rice City) and Wuyangcheng (City of Five Rams). In addition, due to the abundance of flowers along the city's main thoroughfares, Guangzhou is often referred to as Huacheng (City of Flowers).

According to historical records, the city was built in 214BC and was known as Panyu (番禺). The name Guangzhou actually referred to the prefecture in which Panyu was located. However, as the city grew, the name Guangzhou was adopted for the city itself.

As a major sea port, Guangzhou's history is full of color. In 786 the city was sacked by the Persians, while in 1711 the British East India Company established a trading post there. In 1842 the Treaty of Nanjing was signed, which designated the city as one of the five ports that allowed business transactions with foreign nations.

Guangzhou was also part of the so called "Maritime Silk Road" that linked southern China with India, South-East Asia, the Middle East, and Africa. As a result of the links with the Middle East, a mosque was established in the city in 627, and a small Muslim community continues to this day. Furthermore, because the sixth patriarch of Zen Buddhism was born in Guangzhou, taught the famous Platform Sutra there, and established a monastery to the north of the city, Guangzhou has maintained a strong connection with this school of Buddhism.
[edit] When to visit

Climate wise, the best time to visit Guangzhou is in October and November. Alternatively, April and May are also good months. Guangzhou has a sub-tropical climate with humidity levels at their highest in the summer, so unless you enjoy Turkish steam baths, this is a season to avoid! Typhoon season is from June to September. Please note that the Canton Fairs take place annually in October and April, so finding accommodation at these times can be difficult (See the warning section under Sleep).
[edit] Get in
[edit] By plane

The New Guangzhou Baiyun International Airport (广州白云国际机场, IATA: CAN, ICAO: ZGGG, [1]) is a major hub in Southern China, second only to Hong Kong. The airport is the base of China Southern Airlines [2] and has not only an extensive range of domestic flights, but some international connections, including Air France to Paris, China Southern / Delta to Los Angeles, Thai Airways to Bangkok, Singapore Airlines to Singapore and Finnair to Helsinki. Other direct international destinations include Amsterdam, Kuala Lumpur, Jakarta, Frankfurt and Osaka.

The airport is 28 km north from downtown Guangzhou, and should not be confused with the former Baiyun Airport which was closed in 2004. A metro line to the airport is under construction but won't be ready until around 2009. In the meantime, taxi is the fastest option. See the airport fare table [3] for approximate fare cost. A taxi ride to downtown should cost no more than ¥120, inclusive of a ¥15 toll fee. As of the end of 2005, there is a ¥1 fuel surcharge that is not shown on the fare meter.

Alternatively, 9 Airport Express bus lines are available to take you to major destinations in Guangzhou. Line 1 (¥16) departs every 15 minutes from 7 AM until the last flight and takes 45 minutes to reach the train station and Central Hotel. The ticket prices range from ¥10 to ¥36. Lines 1 to 6 are traveling within the metropolitan area, while lines 7-9 go to outer districts. There are also direct Airport Express buses to some cities in the vicinity, including Zhuhai (¥90). Routes to Dongguan and Zhongshan will be in operation soon.

Do not accept solicitations for rides to the city. Those are illegally operated and use unmarked vehicles. They may cost more than taxis since many travelers do not know the cost of airport transportations.
[edit] By train
Guangzhou-Kowloon (Hong Kong) through train timetable Train no. Hung Hom
(departure) GZ East
(arrival)
T824* 07:30 09:27
T826 08:25 10:15
T828* 09:25 11:22
T812* 11:00 12:57
T802 12:15 14:06
T814* 13:25 15:20
T362* 14:20 16:18
T816* 15:26 17:24
T818* 16:38 18:35
T804 17:15 19:06
T820 18:06 19:48
T822* 19:15 21:12
Valid from 11 Mar to 17 Apr 2007

A project is underway to link the entire Pearl River Delta area with high speed (200+ km/hr) train network. The Zhuhai-Guangzhou section is due to open in 2008, and the journey will take just 56 minutes. Shenzhen and other major cities will be connected at a later date.

A new express line connecting Guangzhou with Lhasa, Tibet is now open. The 4,980 km journey will take 58 hours. (¥869 and up)

Bear in mind there are two major train stations in Guangzhou. The Guangzhou East Station (火车东站) services routes to Hong Kong, and other popular tourist destinations. The Guangzhou Station (广州火车站) is one of the biggest in the country and services routes that go all the way to Harbin. Countless travelers have gone to the wrong station and missed their scheduled trips. So be sure to know which train station to go to, which is specified on the tickets. Metro line 1 ends at Guangzhou East Station, and line 2 has a stop at the main station.
[edit] By bus

Coach services are available to bring passengers from Hong Kong International Airport to several locations in Guangzhou. Among the destinations are recognizable landmarks like Jinan University (暨南大学) on Huang Pu Da Dao (黄埔大道), Garden Hotel (花园酒店) and China Hotel (中国大酒店) (see hotel section). The trip takes about 3+ hours and costs 250 HKD. There are also cross border bus terminals throughout Hong Kong. One of the Stations is at Austin Road and Canton Road near Kowloon Park. A one way ticket costs about 100 HKD.

Domestically, it is possible to hop on a bus from any corner of Guangdong province and get to Guangzhou. There are also many options from nearby provinces like Guangxi, Hubei and Fujian. The main stations are the Provincial Station (省汽车站), Tianhe Dasha Station (天河大厦站), Liuhua Station (流花站) and Yuexiu Nan Station (越秀南站).
[edit] By boat

There is a frequent ferry and hovercraft service from Hong Kong, Macau, and Haikou (Hainan Island) at the Zhoutouzui Ferry Pier (洲头咀码头). There are boats from other mainland cities, such as Xiamen, Shanghai, and Qingdao at the Dashatou Pier (大沙头码头). New Nansha Pier (新南沙客运港) is now open with 6 lines daily traveling between Hong Kong and Guangzhou. The trip takes 75 minutes (¥116-230). However, Nansha is very far from the city center, although there is a bus route available from White Swan Hotel, running three times a day.
[edit] Get around
Yang Cheng Tong card
Yang Cheng Tong card

Guangzhou has a fairly efficient and rapidly expanding public transportation system.

If you intend to stay in Guangzhou for an extensive period of time, it is highly advisable to purchase a multi-purpose Yang Cheng Tong (羊城通) stored value card, similar to the Octopus Card in Hong Kong. It can be used not only for public transportation (bus, subway, parking meters and some taxis), but also for public phones and designated shops, places of interests and certain vending machines. The card includes a ¥30 refundable deposit. While you can purchase the cards in many places, returning your card at the end of the trip is a hassle, since service locations are limited. The best place to do so is at the service center at the metro Gong Yuan Qian station. It may be worth it to simply keep it as a souvenir.
[edit] By subway
Guangzhou Metro
Guangzhou Metro

Guangzhou's metro system opened in 1999. The network covers much of the city center and is growing rapidly outward. The fare ranges from ¥2 to ¥12. Most of the signs and announcements are also in English. Tickets are bought from vending machines in the stations. Bills or coins from ¥1 - ¥20 are accepted at ticket vending machines. You can change smaller bills at the customer service counter. The ticket is a small plastic token, which you use at the gate entering the platform, and at the exit. Multi-Pass and Yang-Cheng-Tong are also accepted and can be purchased at the customer service counter.[5]
[edit] By bus

There is also a comprehensive public bus service that covers Guangzhou from end to end. By far, it is the cheapest way to move around. Bus fares are ¥1 for the older buses and ¥2 for the air-conditioned ones, although the older buses are slowly being retired.

There are also 3 tourist bus lines, passing through many scenic spots in the city.
[edit] By taxi

This is the most popular way for foreigners to get around, and it is very affordable. The starting charge is ¥7 for the first 2.3 kilometers, or about 1.4 miles. After that is ¥2.6 for each kilometer. The cost may be slightly different, depending on the taxi operators. ¥1 fuel surcharge is now added. Although widely publicized, many of them actually do not accept Yang Cheng Tong as payment. The taxi hot line is 96900. This comes in handy when you forget your valuables in a taxi. Save your receipt because it contains the taxi's identification number.

Tip: Business names and addresses on this guide are also in Chinese. Print them out and show them to the taxi drivers. Most drivers do not speak English; many not even Cantonese.
[edit] By car

While driving in Guangzhou is an option, drivers unfamiliar with the driving conditions in China's large and densely populated cities should be aware that the experience can be a extremely daunting and even potentially dangerous.

Car rental companies in Guangzhou:

* Avis 9 Huali Lu + 86 20 3758-5080
* Hertz 89 Linhe Xi Lu + 86 20 8755-1608

See also Driving in China.
[edit] By motorcycle

Although a convenient way to navigate the city's back alleys and lanes, motorcycles are totally banned from the downtown area of city, and riding a motorcycle into these prohibited areas can lead to fines and possible confiscation of the bike.

In addition to the downtown motorcycle ban, electric bicycles are banned from the city road. [6]
[edit] Talk

The primary language of Guangzhou is Cantonese, although standard Mandarin, or Putonghua, is fast becoming the lingua franca due to the large influx of migrants. English is not common, but is still better understood here than other Chinese cities, especially in restaurants and bars. Be sure to check out the Cantonese phrasebook and Chinese phrasebook.
[edit] See
[edit] Landmarks
Sun Yat Sen Memorial
Sun Yat Sen Memorial
Our Lady of Lourdes Cathedral, on Shamian Island
Our Lady of Lourdes Cathedral, on Shamian Island

* Guangxiao Temple (光孝寺 guāng-xiào-sì) 109 Guangxiao Lu (光孝路). As the sixth patriarch of Zen Buddhism, Hui Neng, trained at this temple in the 7th Century, it is a popular pilgrimage site for Zen Buddhists. The temple has been destroyed several times by fire, and the current buildings date only from the mid 19th century. (Admission ¥4) [Metro 1 Xi Men Kou - Exit C]
* Liurong Temple (六榕寺 liù-róng-sì) 87 Liurong Lu (六榕路). The Temple of Six Banyan Trees, which includes the 17 story, eight-sided Hua Ta, or Flowering Pagoda, is one of the most popular attractions in Guangzhou. The temple dates back to the 6th century, while the pagoda predates it by about 300 years. (Admission ¥5; Flower Pagoda: ¥10) [Metro 1 Gong Yuan Qian - Exit I]
* The buildings and streets of the former British and French concession on Shamian Island (沙面岛) have been beautifully renovated, creating an oasis of tranquility in an otherwise bustling and hectic metropolis. One of the old structures is Our Lady of Lourdes Chapel, located at 14 Shamian Street. Attractions on the island are all free. As an island, Shamian is not particularly spectacular, but what makes it special that for several hundred years this tiny spit of land was the only place in all of China that Europeans could establish settlements. The architecture reflects that era, and it has a very unique atmosphere. [Metro 1 Huang Sha - Exit D]
* Sun Yat-Sen Memorial Hall (中山纪念堂 zhōng-shān-jì-niàn-táng), located on Dongfeng Zhong Lu, is dedicated to the founder of the Republic of China and local hero Dr. Sun Yat-Sen. It was constructed in 1931 and built on the original site of Sun Yat-sen's presidential office on Yuexiu Hill. (8AM-6PM; Admission ¥5 to the park; ¥20 to go inside the hall) [Metro 2 Ji Nian Tang - Exit C]
* Chen Clan Temple (陈家祠 chén-jiā-cí) [7] Zhongshan 7 Lu (中山七路) This is a very well preserved architecture from the 19th century. It used to belong to a wealthy family by the name of Chen and now houses many articles including ivory sculptures and artistic statues. (Admission ¥10) [Metro 1 Chen Jia Ci - Exit D]
* Shishi Sacred Heart Catholic Church (石室圣心大教堂 shí-shì-shèng-xīn-jiào-táng) 56 Yide Lu (一德路旧部前). It is one of the oldest church structures in the city, and the largest of its kind of Southern China. It is currently in use for worship. Visiting hours are limited to Sunday morning only from 7AM-10AM. (Admission: Free) [Metro 2 Hai Zhu Guang Chang]
* Huangpu Military Academy (黄埔军校旧址 huáng-pǔ-jūn-xiào-jiù-zhǐ) is located on Changzhou Island. It was founded in 1924 by Sun Yat-sen, along with the Chinese Communist Party at the time. Many famous Chinese war heroes were trained here. (Admission ¥15)
* Wu Xian Guan Temple (五仙观 wǔ-xiān-guān) Weifu Xi Lu (惠福西路). (Admission ¥5) [Metro 1 Xi Men Kou Exit C]
* Huaisheng Mosque (怀圣寺 huái-shèng-sì) 56 Guangta Lu (光塔路) It is one of the oldest Muslim mosques in China, built in 627. The mosque is not open to the public, but you can take a peek outside. [Metro 1 Xi Men Kou Exit C]
* Sanyuan Temple (三元宫 sān-yuán-gōng) Yingyuan Lu. This is the largest and oldest Taoist temple in the city. [Metro 2 Ji Nian Tang - Exit C]
* Xiguan Residence (西关大屋 xī-guān-dà-wū) See the traditional Cantonese architectures from ancient Guangzhou, used to be occupied by the upper class. [Metro 1, Chang Shou Lu]
* Hualin Temple (华林寺 huá-lín-sì) [Tour Bus No. 2; Metro 1, Chang Shou Lu]

[edit] Museums and galleries

* Guangzhou City Art Museum (广州美术馆 guǎng-zhōu-měi-shù-guǎn), located near the Zhehai Building in Yuexiu Park, this impressive gallery has more than 10,000 pieces of art work, including calligraphy, traditional Chinese paintings, sculptures and Tibetan Buddhist art (Thangka). [Metro 2 Yue Xiu Gong Yuan]
* Guangdong Museum of Art (广东美术馆 guǎng-dōng-měi-shù-guǎn), 8 Yanyu Lu, Er-sha Island [8]. 9AM-5PM, Tu-Su. The museum is located on Er-Sha Island focusing on contemporary Chinese art, with particular emphasis on Guangdong artists. (Admission ¥15; under 18: free with paying parents) [Tour Bus No.2]
* Nanyue Royal Tomb Museum (南越王墓 nán-yuè-wáng-mù), 867 Jiefang Bei Lu (解放北路867号) - across from Yuexiu Park. This is a tomb of a king of ancient South China. (9AM-5:30PM; ¥12, 20 8666 0885) [Metro 2 Yue Xiu Gong Yuan]
* Guangzhou Sculpture Park (广州雕塑公园 guǎng-zhōu-diāo-sù-gōng-yuán), Tongxin Lu at the foot of Baiyun Mountain. [Tour Bus No. 1, 3]
* President Sun Yat-Sen Museum (孙中山大元帅府纪念馆) [9] 18 Dongsha Jie, Fangzhi Lu (纺织路东沙街18号). +86 20 3428-1366. (Admission ¥6; 9am-5pm; closed Monday)
* Guangzhou Uprising Museum (广州起义旧址纪念馆) 200 Qiyi Lu (起义路200号). The Museum is at the site of the first Communist government building. (9am—12pm; 1:30pm-4:30pm; closed Monday). [Metro 1, 2 Gong Yuan Qian Exit J]
* Guangdong Revolutions History Museum (广东革命历史博物馆) 2 Lingyuan Xi Lu [b8907[p (陵园西路2号大院之2) in the martyrs memorial park. Sun Yat-Sen was sworn in here in 1921 as the president of Republic of China. The museum tells stories from the Opium War to the founding of the new China. [Metro 1 Lie Shi Ling Yuan Exit D]
* Peasant Movement Institute (农民运动讲习所 nóng-jiǎng-suǒ) 42 Zhongshan 4 Lu (中山四路42号). This is the original site of Communist training center founded by Mao Tse-tong in the 1920s. Now it is a museum covering the recent China revolutionary history. (9am-4:30pm; closed Monday) [Metro 1, Nong Jiang Suo Exit C]

[edit] Parks
Yuntai Garden
Yuntai Garden
Communist monument in Martyrs' Memorial Garden
Communist monument in Martyrs' Memorial Garden

* Huanghua Gang Commemoration Park (黄花岗公园 huáng-huā-gǎng-gōng-yuán) [10] 79 Xianlie Zhonglu. This is a park set in a poignant mood. The main attraction is the monument built to commemorate the 72 martyrs who died during the 1911 uprising. (6:00AM-8:30PM; Phone: +86 20 3758-8321; Admission ¥8) [Tour Bus No. 1]
* Yuexiu Park (越秀公园 yuè-xiù-gōng-yuán) [11] the largest urban park in China, is a lush green area that flows over acres of hills and includes several lakes, the Ming Dynasty Zhenhai Tower (镇海楼 zhèn-hǎi-lóu), now home to the City Museum with relics dating back to the 15th century, and an up-to-date miniature of Guangzhou. Also here in this park is the Stone Statue of the Five Rams (五羊石像), the symbol of Guangzhou (For more details, see 'History' section of Understand).(6AM-9PM; Admission: ¥5; Zhenhai Tower: ¥10) [Metro 2 Yue Xiu Gong Yuan Exit B1]
* Yuntai Garden (云台花园 yún-tái-huā-yuán) is situated at the foot of Baiyun (White Cloud) Mountain, famous for its wide variety of rare flowers and trees. From now to January 8, 2007, there is a beautiful 3-D flower exhibit. During this period, admission is ¥20, but it is well worth it. (Admission ¥10) [Tour Bus No. 1, 3]
* Huadu Square (花都广场 huā-dū-guǎng-chǎng) is a park-cum-recreation square located in the north part the city and near the government office buildings of Huadu District (花都区). The square incorporates, among other attractions, an outdoor theater, large fountain, outdoor dance area and statues. There is a large grass area that is similar to a Western style meadow, and also an area of subtropical forest and ornamental flower beds.
* Xiangjiang Wild Animal Safari Park (香江野生动物世界 xiāng-jiāng-yě-shēng-dòng-wù-shì-jiè) is in Panyu district.
* Guangzhou Martyrs' Memorial Garden (广州起义烈士陵园 guǎng-zhōu-qǐ-yì-liè-shì-líng-yuán) Zhongshan 2 Lu (中山二路). The park was dedicated to those who fought and died in the Communist Uprising in 1927. [Metro 1 Lie Shi Ling Yuan Exit D]
* Grand World Scenic Park (广州世界大观 guǎng-zhōu-shì-jiè-dà-guān) [12] 888 Daguanyuan Nan Lu (天河东圃大观园南路888号). 8:30AM-5:30PM. [Bus 548, 224, 245]

[edit] Mountains

* The Baiyun Shan (White Cloud Mountain) (白云山 bái-yún-shān) [13] is a great place to relax and enjoy a day among lush, rolling hills. It also offers great views over the city. The road to the top is restricted to park trams and pedestrians. To get to the top lookout point, you can use the main roads or trails. There are many places to rest and refreshments are available along the way. It is a great place to see people enjoying nature and playing games, such as badminton, football (soccer) and even bungie jump. There are many bus routes to and from different parts of the city, as well as taxis usually available near the park gate. (6AM-7PM; Park entrance ¥5; Cable Car: ¥40 round trip; tram: from ¥20; other attractions ¥5-¥10) [Tour Bus No. 1, 3]
* Lianhua Shan (Lotus Mountain) (莲花山 lián-huā-shān) features an impressive quarry from which red sand stones were mined about 2,000 years ago, a pagoda from 1612, and a barrack from 1664. The obligatory statue of Guanyin, the Buddhist Goddess of compassion, at the side of the Buddhist temple is also not to be missed. From Guangzhou, take bus 308 or 302 and exchange bus at Panyu (番禺). The bus takes about 2 hours and costs ¥14. There is a ferry service from Guangzhou at Tianzi Pier (天字码头) at Beijing Lu Nan (北京路南) for ¥25. The boat leaves at 8:15AM and returns at 3:15PM (Admission ¥30).

[edit] Learn

* Sun Yat-Sen University [14] (中山大学 zhōng-shān-dà-xué) This is the most famous university in Guangzhou and Southern China, founded by Sun Yat-sen, the founder of the Republic of China. The school now has 3 campuses. The old campus is green and beautiful, and has many historical sites. The north gate has a great river view. [Metro 2 Zhong Da - Exit A]
* Chinese medicine and acupuncture (中医和针灸) is taught at Guangzhou University of Traditional Medicine (广州中医药大学 guǎng-zhōu-zhōng-yī-dà-xué) [15]. This is one of the main universities for traditional medicine in China and attracts many overseas students. [Metro 2 San Yuan Li - Exit B]

[edit] Buy
[edit] Street markets

If time and weather permits, walking is perhaps the best way to see the city as the back alleys are littered with antiquities that are not accessible by motorized vehicles. Most trades and goods categories are concentrated in a specific area or along one main street.

* Xiguan Antique Street (西关古玩城) near Liwan Park (荔湾湖公园).
* Flower Street (花卉水族街) Baohua Lu (宝华路).
* Jade Street (玉器工艺街/玉器街) Changshou Lu (长寿路) and Wenchang Lu (文昌路), near Shangxiajiu Pedestrian Street. [Metro 1 Chang Shou Lu]
* Ivory and Sea products (象牙雕刻海味街) Daxin Lu (大新路).
* Toy Street (玩具街) and Dried goods and snacks Street (干果海味食品专业街) Yide Lu (一德路). [Metro 2 Hai Zhu Guang Chang]
* Bridal Street (婚纱专卖街) Jiangnan Bei Lu (江南大道北).
* Flowers, Aquatic and Lightings Street Danan Lu (大南街) near Beijing Lu (北京路). [Metro 1, 2 Gong Yuan Qian]
* Household Merchandise Street (日用百货街) Gaodi Jie (高第街). The street has become a shopping center selling everyday goods.
* Cultural Street (古玩字画街 / 文化商业街) Wende Lu (文德路). This is a good place to look for antiques and traditional Chinese artistic goods. [Metro 1 Long Jiang Suo]
* Qingping Market (清平市场) Qingping Lu (清平路). It is located North from Shamian Island. Cantonese are known to eat just about any animal, and the market is world famous for its wild animal trades, although it has been tamer since the SARS outbreak. It is still a great place to go for exotic goods. [Metro 1 Huang Sha]
* Haiyin Shopping District (海印专业购物区) is located at the northwest side of the Haiyin Bridge (海印大桥), selling appliances, sporting goods, cloth, fabrics, camera accessories, and eletronics.

[edit] Malls and shopping centers
Shangxiajiu pedestrian street
Shangxiajiu pedestrian street

* Beijing Lu Pedestrian Street (北京路步行街 běi-jīng-lù). This is the main shopping thoroughfare, a pedestrian street where most stores are open from 9am to 10pm. Avoid touts who solicit pirated DVDs and imitation goods, and whomever you have to follow into the small dark alleys in between buildings to see the goods. Remember to visit Mayflower Plaza (五月花广场 wǔ-yuè-huā-guǎng-chǎng) at 68 Zhongshan 5 Lu (中山五路68号), at the northern end of the Pedestrian Street. This is a place where young people hang out and shop. [Metro 1, 2 Gong Yuan Qian - Exits C, D]
* Shangxiajiu Pedestrian Street (上下九商业步行街 shàng-xià-jiǔ) This shopping area is also a showcase of traditional Cantonese architecture, especially pretty at night when it's lit up. Prices here are generally lower than Beijing Lu's, but prepare to bargain a fair bit. Remember to visit Liwan Plaza (荔湾广场 lì-wān-guǎng-chǎng), located at 9 Dexing Lu (德星路9号), the east end of the street. You will find a good selection of crystal here. [Metro 1 Chang Shou Lu - Exits D1, D2]
* Grandview Plaza / Zhengjia Plaza (广百正佳广场 zhèng-jiā-guǎng-chǎng) [16] 228 Tianhe Lu (天河路228号). +86 020 3833-0098. This is the largest Western-style shopping mall in China. [Metro 1, 3 Ti Yu Zhong Xin]
* China Plaza (中华广场 zhōng-huá-guǎng-chǎng). 33 Zhongshan 3 Lu (中山三路33号). Located on top of a metro station, this is another large shopping mall with brand name department stores, clothing and electronics stores, restaurants, etc. [Metro 1 Lie Shi Ling Yuan]
* Tee Mall (天河城 tiān-hé-chéng) [17] (Chinese) 208 Tianhe Lu (天河路208号). This is probably the busiest and most popular shopping mall in the heart of the city. It is located right above the metro station. [Metro 1 Ti Yu Xi Lu]
* Zhong Tian Shopping Plaza (中天购物城 zhōng-tiān-gòu-wù-chéng) Located at Zhongxin Square near the East Train Station (天河北路 233号中信广场), it's more than a place to shop and eat. The plaza has great one-stop services to meet your banking, dry cleaning, grooming and transportation ticket needs. [Metro 1 Guangzhou Dong Zhan]
* Friendship Store (广州友谊商店 yǒu-yí-shāng-diàn) 369 Huanshi Dong Lu (环市东路369号). 9:45AM-9:45PM. It is one of the oldest department stores targeting foreigners in Guangzhou. You will also find its branches in Zhengjia Plaza and Times Square on 28 Tianhe Beilu (天河北路28号).
* Zi You Ying Outdoor Travel Goods (自由营户外旅游用品店) 229 Jiangnan Dadao Zhong, Xin An Plaza Suite 180 (江南大道中229号新安大厦180号地铺) This is a great place to replenish your travel supplies.
* Wang Fu Jing (王府井百货 wáng-fǔ-jǐng) 40 Long Lin Xia Lu (农林下路40号). The famous department store in Beijing opened a branch in Guangzhou with the same name, featuring mid to high-end products.

[edit] Do
Pearl River Dinner Cruise
Pearl River Dinner Cruise

* Pearl River dinner cruise (珠江夜游) Dashatou Pier (大沙头码头), Tianzi Pier (天字码头), and Xiti Pier (西堤码头). A one to two hour cruise in the evening and a great way to see the Guangzhou skyline along the Pearl River, including a light show at Bai-E-Tan. Tickets for the deluxe dinner cruise can be bought from most high-end hotels, such as the White Swan on Shamian Island. (From ¥50)

[edit] Festivals

* Chinese New Year/Spring Festival (春节 chūn-jié) on 1st day of 1st lunar month, usually in January or February. This is a 15 day celebration, and some districts can be quite deserted as many migrant workers return to their home provinces. The flower fair is popular during the days before New Year.
* Dragon Boat Festival (端午节 duān-wǔ-jié) on 5th day of 5th lunar month, usually in May or June. This festival commemorates the sacrifice of Qu Yuan (屈原), a famous poet who drowned himself in the river by way of making a statement against government corruption during the Warring States Period. The highlights are dragon boat racing along the Pearl River, and eating rice dumplings wrapped in bamboo leaves (粽子).
* Mid-autumn Festival (中秋节 zhōng-qiū-jié) on 15th day of 8th lunar month, usually in September or October. Cantonese moon cakes are enjoyed during this holiday. Lian Xiang Lou and Tao Tao Ju's moon cakes are especially famous (see "Eat" section). Kids' favorites are paper lanterns. Many locals also enjoy riding ferries and watching the full moon on the Pearl River.
* Tomb Sweeping Day (清明节 qīng-míng-jié) around the spring equinox, usually on April 5th. Involves visits to the family tombs for cleaning and making offerings.
* Chinese Valentines Day (七夕 qī-xī) on 7th day of 7th lunar month, usually in August or September. According to legend, a heavenly fairy Zhi Nu (织女) fell in love with a mortal farm boy Niu Lang (牛郎). It's forbidden of course, so as punishment, they are only allowed to meet once a year on this day. This is the Chinese equivalent of Valentine's Day, but it is steadily losing its appeal among the locals, especially to the young.
* Winter Solstice (冬至 dōng-zhì - literally, the Coming of Winter) on December 22nd. Traditionally, Cantonese people observe the day with a family feast, which often includes preserved duck and sausages. However, the highlight of the day's festive dishes is hot soup served with flour dumplings (汤圆).

[edit] The Canton Fair

Twice a year, in Spring and Fall, Guangzhou hosts the China Export Commodities Fair (中国出口商品交易会)[18], also known as the Canton Fair. It has been running since 1957 and for many years was almost the only way foreign businesses could make contacts in China. It is still very important. Anyone who is doing or wants to do business with China should consider visiting.

If you are going to the fair, book a hotel well in advance. Hotels tend to be full and expensive during the Fair. China Hotel and Dongfang Hotel are probably the best places to stay if you can afford it. It is right across the street from one of the main exhibit halls. Many good hotels provide shuttle services to the main exhibit centers during the fair. Taxis may not be your best option since there are traffic controls in the exhibit areas.

The two main exhibit halls are the Pazhou Complex at 380 Yuejiang Zhong Lu (阅江中路380号) [Metro 2 Pa Zhou], and the old Liuhua Complex at 117 Liuhua Lu (流花路117号) [Metro 2 Yue Xiu Gong Yuan].
[edit] Eat

Cantonese cuisine is well-known for its blend of color, fragrance, taste and presentation. In particular, dim sum the delicate Cantonese pastry is famous for being simple yet delicious. Cantonese cuisine is among the top four in the country. This said, there are a couple of points worth remembering. The sanitary standards, except in better restaurants, are generally low. Don't be fooled by all the rave about the cuisine, be careful about where you eat and what you order. A lot of restaurants have menus with pictures, which is essential if you don't speak the language.
[edit] Traditional

* Liuhua Congee House (流花粥城), Renmin Bei Lu (人民北路903号流花湖公园) (In Liuhua Park), ☎ +86 20 8668-0108. Excellent dim sum and beatiful surroundings. [Metro 2 Yue Xiu Gong Yuan]

* Panxi Restaurant (泮溪酒家), 151 Longjin Xi Lu (龙津西路151号), ☎ +86 20 8181-5718. Traditional Chinese restaurant famous for their dim sum. Menu in English is available, but the restaurant accepts only local credit cards.

* Lian Xiang Lou (莲香楼), 67 Dishipu Lu (第十甫路67号), ☎ +86 20 8181-1638. Founded in 1889, Lian Xiang Lou is known for it's tasty dim sum. [Metro 1 Chang Shou Lu]

* Tao Tao Ju (陶陶居), 20 Dishipu Lu (第十甫路20号), ☎ +86 20 8138-9632. Tao Tao's speciality is the Cantonese moon cakes [Metro 1 Chang Shou Lu]

* Guangzhou Restaurant (广州酒家), 2 Wenchang Nan Lu (文昌南路2号), ☎ +86 20 8138-0388. This Cantonese family-restaurant has several branches all over the city. Other convenient locations include 20 Binjiang Xi Lu (滨江西路20号) and 112 Ti Yu Dong Lu(体育东路112号). [Metro 1 Chang Shou Lu]

* Datong Restaurant (大同酒家), 63 Yanjiang Lu (沿江路63号), ☎ +86 20 8188-8988. This huge restaurant spans all the 8 eight floors of the old building. The place has been around for a long time and is a favourite among locals.

* Wenji Restaurant (文记壹心鸡), 10 Xuanyuan Qiao (荔湾区宝华路旋源桥10号), ☎ +86 20 8172-8887. As the place was established by the former chefs from Qingping restaurant, they have the original Qingping chicken on the menu. [Metro 1 Chang Shou Lu]

* Baifu Restaurant (百福酒家), 112 Tiyu Dong Lu (体育东路112号百福广场三楼) (3/F, Baifu Plaza), ☎ +86 20 3880-8268. [Metro 1 Ti Yu Zhong Xin]

[edit] Vegetarian

* Shui Yun Tian (水云天), 38-42 Jinghui Lu (净慧路38-42号首层) (next to the Guangxiao Temple), ☎ +86 20 8107-2463. 6:30AM-2:30PM, 4:30PM-9:30PM. Great buffet around noon. [Metro 1 Xi Men Kou]

* Cai Gen Xiang (菜根香), 167 Zhongshan 6 Lu (中山六路167号), ☎ +86 20 8334-4363. 6:30AM-2:30PM, 5PM-9PM. [Metro 1 Xi Men Kou]

* Fo Shi Jie (佛世界素食馆), Niu Nai Chang Jie (同福中路牛奶厂街二圣宫前2-8号) (by Tongfu Zhong Lu), ☎ +86 20 8424-3590. 7AM-9PM. A part of the profit from this humble Buddhist vegetarian restaurant is given to charity.

* Fo You Yuan (佛有缘素食馆), 12 Shi Lu Ji Zhongshan 8 Lu; 712 Shangjiu Lu (上九路712号), ☎ +86 20 8181-9188. 6:30AM-3PM, 5PM-10PM. [Metro 1 Chang Shou Lu] Interesting and new vegetarian dishes.

[edit] Southeast Asian

* Cow and Bridge Thai Restaurant (牛桥泰菜), 2/F, Xiang Long Garden, 181 Tianhe Bei Lu (天河北路181号祥龙花园二楼), ☎ +86 20 8525-0821. This famous Thai restaurant offers many varities of Thai dishes. Ask for the more fiery version of your meal, if you're used to Thai cuisine, as the dishes are somewhat localized. [Metro 3 Lin He Xi]

* Lan Kwai Fong (兰桂坊), 5 Shamian Nan Jie (沙面南街5号), ☎ +86 20 8121-6523. good curries and polite service in this Shamian Island favorite. It is tourist friendly and menus are available in English. [Metro 1 Huang Sha]

* Banana Leaf (蕉叶西餐厅), 28 Tianhe Bei Lu (天河北路28号时代广场2楼) (2/F, Times Square), ☎ +86 20 3891-0728, [19]. Traditional and established Thai restaurant chain in Guangzhou. They have also restaurants at GZTV Hotel (G/F, 8 Luhu Lu, +86 20 8359-7499) and World Trade Center (5/F, 371-375 Huanshi Dong Lu). [Metro 3 Lin He Xi]

[edit] Western

* The Italian Restaurant (小街风情意大利餐厅), 360 Huanshi Dong Lu (环市东路360号珠江大厦东座3楼) (3/F, East Tower, Zhujiang Building), ☎ +86 20 8386-3840. 10:30AM-2AM. Despite the unimaginative name, this is the place to come, if you're craving for Italian in Guangzhou. The pizzas are somewhat localized.

* The Mexican Restaurant. Just above the Italian Restaurant. OK but not great, fairly expensive.

* La Seine (塞纳河法国餐厅), 33 Qingbo Lu (G/F, Zinghai Concert Hall), ☎ +86 20 8735-2222. The best French restaurant in the city. Also, one of the most expensive restaurants.

[edit] Foreign Chains

Foreign fast food, ice cream and coffee chains are well established in Guangzhou. These include KFC (肯德基), Pizza Hut (必胜客), McDonald's (麦当劳), Starbucks (星巴克) and Häagen-Dazs (哈根达斯). All of these can be found in the Zhengjia Plaza (See "Shop").
[edit] Drink
[edit] Bars & Pub

When it comes to drinks, Guangzhou is one of the best cities in China to knock back a few. With a relatively large population of foreigners here, the city offers a wide variety of nightspots to cater to all tastes.

Tsing Tao and Zhu Jiang are the two major Chinese beer brands that are sold almost everywhere. Both are fairly standard light lagers. Carlsberg is also brewed in Guangzhou, which explains the reasonably huge amount of Carlsberg taps in the bars.

For latest reviews of restaurants, bars and night clubs pick up a free copy of That's PRD [20], a monthly English publication. It is available at several hotels and lounges.

* Overseas Chinese Village, next to Holiday Inn Guangzhou. This is a sort of bar street consisting of six or seven bars side by side, all two-storey buildings with a different theme on each floor. Prices are on the high side, costing about ¥40 for a small bottle of beer.
* Hill Bar, outside Baiyun Hotel and opposite Garden Hotel. Reasonable price for drinks (¥30 for a pint of beer, less at happy hour) Live band performance every evening.

Gipsy King Bar
Gipsy King Bar

* Tang Club, 1 Jianshe 6 Malu (建设六马路1号). This is one of the most expensive places to hang out in Guangzhou, featuring a live band that plays good old rock-and-roll as well as contemporary rock. This is the place to be seen. The crowd is a mixture of expats and local wannabes. A small bottle of beer costs ¥50.
* Strange Brew, 200m from the Ramada Hotel, 103 Ming Yue Xie. Three Canadians own this bar and burger joint. It is simply the best place in Guangzhou to get a great burger and put back some cheap draught beer. They are the only bar in Guangzhou serving German and Belgian draught beer and they host regular parties that rock out. This is a meeting place for Expats and Chinese and a good place to start your night. Directions/information: 13450227140
* The Cave (墨西哥餐厅酒吧) 360 Huanshi Dong Lu (环市东路360号珠江大厦东侧) +86 020 8386-3660. Located at the basement on the end of the Zhu Jiang Building (珠江大厦) nearer to the Garden Hotel, this is a favourite expat hangout. The resident DJ spins a wide range of music, from pop to disco to trance. Erotic dance performances, i.e. live-python dance, start late on the dance floor. ¥30 for a standard drink.
* Gipsy King Bar (大篷车酒吧) 360 Huanshi Dong Lu (环市东路360号珠江大厦西地下). +86 020 8387-5177. Located on the opposite end of the Zhu Jiang Building from The Cave, this is an underground bar on a similar theme. Many local "working" girls sashay around, looking for a good time. There are individual dance performances at one corner of the bar, while group performances start on the main dance floor from 10PM. ¥30 for a standard drink.
* Paddy Field Irish Pub & Restaurant, probably the only Irish Pub in Guangzhou, round the back of Garden Hotel. Serves pretty good western food. Drinks are at usual bar prices.

Bar Street at Bai-E-Tan
Bar Street at Bai-E-Tan

* Sleeping Wood Cafe, a nice cozy restaurant pub next to the Holiday Inn with friendly, English speaking waiters and waitresses. Serves western food and all kinds of alcoholic drinks. One-for-one pint-sized Tsingtao draft beer during happy hour (before 8PM). Good place to unwind and take it easy, especially in the open area. A drink costs ¥25-30. There's a separate branch along the Pearl River.
* Sky Bar, newly opened in June 2006, also next to the Holiday Inn. Serves Brazilian-style food and all kinds of drinks. Standard drinks start from ¥25.
* Lucy's (Cafe Bar) next to the White Swan Hotel, right by the Pearl River. Excellent western food and drinks for very reasonable prices. Very nice area in the open for al-fresco dining.
* Bai-E-Tan Bar Street (白鹅潭酒吧风情街) Changdi Street (长堤街) in the Fangcun area, across the river from White Swan Hotel. The street is packed with bars, but action is scarce until at least 10:30PM. It is recommended to have dinner in one of the nearby restaurants before heading out to the bars. Special promotions, such as a half dozen bottles of beer for ¥100, are common. [Metro 1 Fang Cun]

[edit] Tea houses

The culture of tea drinking, also known as Yum Cha (饮茶), runs deep in Guangzhou. After all, the city was at the center of the massive tea trade that existed between China and Europe during the 19th century.

* Simple Love Tea Shop, #102, 94 Tianhe Nan 1 Lu (Down from the south gate of Teem Plaza). 3PM-2AM.

* Tian Chang Di Jiu, 1 Zhengping Zhong Jie, Taojin Lu, ☎ +86 20 8358-1627.

* Chun Ya Yuan Teahouse, 19 Siyou Xin Ma Lu (4/F, Changcheng Hotel), ☎ +86 20 8761-2888 ext.6488. 7PM-1AM.

* Crystal Tea House, 6 Longkou Dong Lu, Tianhe (1/F, Yuan Yang Hotel), ☎ +86 20 8759-6988 ext.67. 10AM-2AM.

* Wong Chun Loong Herbal Tea. Several branches at 17 Wenchang Nan Lu, 109 Huagui Lu, 51 Dishipu Lu, 504 Xihua Lu, 859 Longjin Dong Lu, 25 Longjin Xi Lu, 142 to 144 Huanshi Xi Lu, 4-lst No.1 street, Xiwan Dong Lu, 320 Duobao Lu and 120 Shangjiu Lu.

[edit] Coffee

* People's Cakes & Coffee, #102, 17 Jianshe 6 Ma Lu (建设六马路17号102房), ☎ +86 20 8376-6677. Enjoy cakes and coffee at this Western coffee shop run by Koreans. There is another branch at 98 Taojin Nan Lu (Tel. +86 20 8348-8085).

[edit] Sleep

WARNING: The last two weeks of April and October (April 15-30 and October 15-30) coincide with the annual Guangzhou International Trade Fairs. Hotel room rates are unreasonably hiked up anything from 200% to 400%, including hostels! If you're not travelling to see the Trade Fair, you might want to consider another period of time.

This guide uses the following price ranges for a standard double room:
Budget Under ¥150
Mid-range ¥150-500
Splurge Over ¥500
[edit] Budget

* Guangdong Youth Hostel (广东省外事办招待所), 2 Shamian 4 Jie (沙面四街2号) (diagonally across the street from the landmark White Swan Hotel), ☎ +86 20 8121-8298. It is clean, convenient and reasonably priced for Guangzhou. English is spoken. There are 8 dorm beds in each room, and it only costs ¥50 per bed (¥200 to have your own room). It is probably the cheapest western-style accommodation in Guangzhou. Reservations are accepted and encouraged, since the hostel is usually at its capacity. This hostel was featured on the Globe Trekker. [Metro 1 Huang Sha]

* Tielu Tong Tong Hotel, 101 Guangyuan Xi Lu. A few blocks down from the train station has rooms at ¥100 for the first night, ¥80 for subsequent nights. It's on their business cards in English only. That's hot water, toilet, air-conditioned, spacious and noisy. [Metro 2 Guangzhou HuoCheZhan]

* City Youth Hostel (广州国际青年旅舍), 179 Huanshi Xi Lu (环市西路179号), ☎ +86 20 8666-6889. This youth hostel offers tiny single rooms for about ¥80 (¥270 Oct.)per night (¥60 for members). Located close to the train station it does not provide the nicest environment. [Metro 2 Guangzhou HuoCheZhan]

* Bin Jiang Hostel (滨江青年旅舍), 405 Yanjiang Dong Lu (大沙头沿江东路405号), ☎ +86 20 8383-4110. A little far from the center of the city, but the dorm bed rate is very cheap at around ¥60 (¥180 Oct). Having your own room and shower will cost you ¥170. There is no close Metro access.

[edit] Mid range

* Hotel Landmark (华厦大酒店), 8 Qiaoguang Lu, Haizhu Square (海珠广场侨光路8号), ☎ +86 20 8335-5988, [21]. [Metro 2, Hai Zhu Guang Chang]

* Guangzhou Hotel (广州宾馆), 2 Qiyi Lu, Haizhu Square (海珠广场起义路2号), ☎ +86 20 8333-8168, [22]. Currently there are heavy constructions taking place outside the hotel for the next year (2007) or so. [Metro 2, Hai Zhu Guang Chang]

* Guangdong Victory Hotel (广东胜利宾馆), 53 Shamian Bei Jie (沙面北街53号), ☎ +86 20 8121-6688, [23]. This rather upmarket hotel on Shamian Island offers good value rooms and nice service. English is spoken. Small travel agency handles plane, train and other tickets. There is also a recently renovated Annex building nearby, which offers cheaper rooms than the main building. (From ¥320) [Metro 1 Huang Sha]

* Hotel Canton (广州大厦), 374 Beijing Lu (广州市北京路374号), ☎ +86 20 8318-9888, [24]. This once a glorious hotel is now a bit outdated, but is superbly located in the northern end of Beijing Lu pedestrian shopping street. Metro station for both lines 1 and 2 is nearby for easy access. (From ¥390) [Metro 1, 2 Gong Yuan Qian]

* Baiyun Hotel (白云宾馆), 367 Huanshi Dong Lu (环市东路367号) (across from Garden Hotel), ☎ +86 20 8333-3998, [25]. Baiyun hotel is a member of Best Western hotel chain.

* Liuhua Hotel, 194 Huanshi Xi Lu (across from main train station), ☎ +86 20 8666-8800, [26].

[edit] Splurge

* White Swan Hotel (白天鹅宾馆), 1 Shamian Nan Jie (沙面南街1号), ☎ +86 20 8188-6968, [27]. Located on the banks of the Pearl River on the quiet Shamian Island, the White Swan is complimented by a charming park nearby where locals can be found doing Tai Chi along with various native dances. Surrounding the hotel are blocks of little shops run by locals willing to bargain. (Keep in mind that many of the shops carry identical items, so finding an item cheaper somewhere else is likely.) The White Swan offers a traditional Chinese restaurant and an American style restaurant to accommodate its visitors. (From ¥800) [Metro 1 Huang Sha]

* Holiday Inn City Centre Guangzhou (文化假日酒店), 28 Guangming Lu, Overseas Chinese Village, Huanshi Dong Lu(环市东路华侨新村光明路28号) (off Ouzhuang Intersection), ☎ +86 20 6128-6868, [28]. Not exactly the newest, biggest or cheapest hotel around, what the Holiday Inn offers is a convenient location and excellent staff service, thanks in part to its association with the Intercontinental Hotels Group, which places great emphasis on customer service. Rooms are clean, have comfortable beds and pillows, and a good selection of TV channels. Internet access is stable but costs ¥100 a day. Priority Club platinum members get automatic upgrades to executive rooms (based on availability) and access to the executive lounge. Airline ticketing office and Hertz car rental counter available. There's also another Holiday Inn at 188 Dishifu Lu.

* Garden Hotel (花园酒店), 368 Huanshi Dong Lu (环市东路368号), ☎ +86 20 8333-8989, [29]. Indisputably the most recognizable hotel in the heart of the city. It has both standard hotel rooms as well as apartments and offices for rent. Deluxe rooms are clean but basic. Elite rooms are newly renovated and attractive. Excellent dinner buffet at the revolving restaurant on the top level. This hotel is also complemented with shops and boutiques selling brand name goods, a HSBC branch, a Bank of China branch, and a bus station serving express buses to the Guangzhou Baiyun Airport, Hong Kong International Airport and nearby cities such as Zhuhai.

* Asia International Hotel (亚洲国际大酒店), 326 Huangshi Dong Lu, Sec 1 (环市东路326号), ☎ +86 20 6128-8888, [30]. This is one of a handful of hotels that feature separate bath and shower areas in a standard room. Internet access is free but slow. It also features Guangzhou's highest revolving restaurant on the top level.

* Guangdong International Hotel (广东国际大酒店), 339 Huanshi Dong Lu (环市东路339号), ☎ +86 20 8331-1888, [31].

* Dong Fang Hotel (东方宾馆), 120 Liuhua Lu (流花路120号), ☎ +86 20 8666-9900, [32]. [Metro 2 Yue Xiu Gong Yuan]

* China Hotel (中国大酒店), 100 Liuhua Lu (流花路100号), ☎ +86 20 8666-6888, [33]. It is a Marriott hotel in the heart of Downtown. Its ground level has direct access to Guangzhou Metro. (From ¥650) [Metro 2 Yue Xiu Gong Yuan]

* Oriental Resort (广州鸣泉居), 1068 Baiyun Dadao Nan (白云大道南1068号), ☎ +86 20 8663-2888, [34]. The hotel is located on Baiyun Mountain, quiet and away from the city. (From ¥600)

* China Mayors Plaza (广州市长大厦), 189 Tianhe Bei Lu (天河北路189号), ☎ +86 20 8755-3838, [35]. (From ¥600)

[edit] Stay safe

Firearms are banned in the country except for police and military use, but the streets can still be dangerous in its own way for the unwary. Due to the enormous number of people from other mainland provinces flocking to Guangzhou in the hope of finding jobs (often unsuccessfully), the area surrounding the main train station has gained a notorious reputation for being chaotic, unsafe and rampant with petty crimes. Pickpockets are especially active here. In recent years, armed (large blades, knives, and such) robberies in the open and abductions which resulted in first degree murders have been on the rise in the city. Just bear in mind, when people become desperate, they will do anything to get what they want. If you are getting robbed, do not expect the crowd to help. And if they are armed, do not fight back. The best defence, as always, is common sense. Do not flash your valuables in public, do not wander around by yourself late at night and remain alert at all times. Use only official taxis and get advice from the government-run tourist office.

With its vast, ever-increasing population, there will always be people (mostly from out of town) who just seem to be hanging around. Those unaccustomed to this may feel intimidated, especially Westerners who get stared at a lot. However, please remember that rural Chinese are not used to seeing a "Lao Wai" (a Westerner), so their stares are merely out of interest, and should not be taken as something rude or offensive. In this respect, it is important to be aware that 3 out of 10 people in Guangzhou are migrants from other provinces.

Traffic accident rates in Guangzhou (or China for that matter) are significantly higher than those of other countries. Use extra caution when crossing streets; use pedestrian bridges and tunnels whenever possible. Like everywhere else in China, cars do not yield to pedestrians. Instead, drivers automatically expect pedestrians to yield to them. So in most cases, they don't stop until it's too late. Due to the high number of traffic accidents and crimes involving motorcycles, they will be totally banned in Guangzhou starting in 2007. Once the most important mode of transportation in China, bicycles will be also limited to certain roads within the city.

Emergency numbers are: Police: 110; Fire: 119; Medical: 120; Traffic accident: 122.
[edit] Contact

* The area dialing code for Guangzhou is 020. From overseas, dial +86 20 XXXX-XXXX. Phone numbers are 8 digits.
* Tourism Administration of Guangzhou Municipality (广州市旅游局) [36] 180 Huanshi Xi Lu (环市西路180号). +86 20 8107-8291.
* Consulates
o U.S. Consulate, Guangzhou (美国驻广州总领事馆) [37] Note that the visa, passport and adoption sections of the Consulate have recently moved to 5th Floor Tian Yu Garden (Phase II) 136-146 Linhe Zhong Lu; Mailing address remains and other offices remain at: 1 Shamian Nan Jie, Guangzhou 510133. +86 20 8121-8000. This is the only U.S. Consulate in China that processes adoption visas. Over 7,000 were issued in 2005.
o Australia Consulate Guangdong International Hotel Suite 1509; +86 20 8335-5911.
o Canada Consulate China Hotel Office Tower Suite 801; +86 20 8666-0569.
o U.K. Consulate Guangdong International Hotel, Second and Seventh Floor; +86 20 8333-6520.
o Consulate General of Australia in GuangzhouA dd: Rm 1509, CITIC Plaza Tel: 83350909
o Consulate General of Canada in Guangzhou Add: Rm 801, China Hotel Tel: 86660569
o Consulate General of Finland in Guangzhou Add: Rm 803, CITIC Plaza Tel: 38770188
o Consulate General of France in Guangzhou Add: Rm 803, CITIC Plaza Tel: 83303405
o Consulate General of Germany in Guangzhou Add: 103 Shamian Bei Jie, Shamian Island Tel: 81922566
o Consulate General of Japan in Guangzhou Add: Garden Hotel, Huanshi Dong Lu Tel: 83343090
o Consulate General of Malaysia in Guangzhou Add: Floor 3,Ramada Pearl Hotel [38] Tel: 87395660
o Consulate General of Netherlands in Guangzhou Add: Unit 705, Main Tower, CITIC Plaza Tel: 83302067
o Consulate General of Philippines in Guangzhou Add: Floor 1, White Swan Hotel, Shamian Island Tel: 81886968
o Consulate General of Thailand in Guangzhou Add: White Swan Hotel, Shamian Island Tel: 81886968
o Consulate General of U.K .in Guangzhou Add: Floor 2, CITIC Plaza Tel: 83351354
o Consulate General of U.S.A. in Guangzhou Add: Shamian Nan Lu, Shamian Island Tel: 81888911
o Consulate General of the Socialist Republic of Viet Nam in Guangzhou Add: Shamian Hotel Guangzhou Tel: 88888124
o Consulate General of the Republic of Poland in Guangzhou Add: 63 Shamian Dajie Guangzhou Tel: 88861854, 88865009
* Internet cafes are common in major Chinese cities, though are often the target of government crackdowns. Popular ones in Guangzhou include:
o Worldwide Network on Jiangsu Lu
o the more up-market Sparkice in Central Plaza on Huai Hai Zhong Lu
o China Mayors Plaza (市长大厦). 189 Tianhe Bei Lu (天河北路189号)
o Budget Internet Cafe on Fuzhou Lu.
* Police: The Public Security Bureau is at 155 Jiefang Nan Lu (解放南路155号) +86 20 8311-5808 (Monday to Friday 8:50-11:30AM, 2:30-5PM.) You can get your visa extension done here if needed.

[edit] Cope
[edit] Banking

ATMs that accept foreign credit or debit cards are common in shopping malls and tourist areas. Withdrawal is available in Chinese currency only. Most banks also accept exchanges from your local currencies to RMB. Your passport is required for this service. However, they do not change it back to your local currencies.

* Bank of China (中国银行) [39] There is a branch inside Garden Hotel. ATM is available on the ground floor of White Swan Hotel, and over 100 locations in Guangzhou. Their ATMs are the best bet for using foreign cards.
* Bank of America [40] Rm 2506, 555 Renmin Zhong Lu. +86-20 8130-0888. The bank has alliance with China Construction Bank.
* Citi [41] Unit 101, Fortune Plaza No. 118 TiYu East Road Tian He district. +86-20-38981688. This bank has a full service branch, foreign currency exchange services, and a 24 hour International ATM Service.

[edit] Laundry

Few lower end hotels and hostels have coin-operated self-service laundry room. Self-service laundromats are not available on the streets, although dry clean and laundry stores are available to clean your clothes. Normally you can drop your clothes off and pick them up the next day. One laundry chain is TianTian (天天洗衣), which is conveniently located in all Metro stations. There are many stores on Shamian Island that have laundry service. An average load of laundry costs about ¥100.
[edit] Television

Guangzhou Television (GZTV) [42] has an English channel, offering entertainment and cultural programs. There are several English channels from Hong Kong, available in most hotels, offer a great selection of prime time shows from US and UK.
[edit] Places of worship

All the religious sites listed in the See section are open to worshippers.

* Christian: Guangzhou International Christian Fellowship [43] holds weekly service on Sundays at 10AM for expats from around the world in English. You must show your travel documents to enter since residents are not allowed there due to local laws. The meeting location is Star Hotel (景星酒店) near the East Train Station. Phone: 1366 234 6904. Hotel Address: 89 Linhe Xi Lu (林和西路89号). [Metro 1 Dong Zhan]

[edit] Gym

Guangzhou has several branches of Total Fitness. One of the locations is at the 8th floor of Zhengjie Plaza (正佳广场).
[edit] Health

* Guangdong Provincial People's Hospital is near the Garden Hotel. 106 Zhong Shan Er Lu. +86 20 8382-7812, 2062-2031.
* Kaiyi International Dental Care [44] Ice Flower Hotel, 2 Tianhe Bei Lu. +86 20 3886-4821, 3387-4278.

[edit] Mail

* Post Office There is a post office on Shamian (Shamian 3 Jie 沙面三街) 9AM-5PM, closed on Sunday.
* DHL There is a branch in Garden Hotel.
* UPS 1121 Guangyuan Zhong Lu. +86 20 8657-9898.

[edit] Get out

* Visit the peach orchards and canals at nearby Xinjiao.

* Yuanxuan Taoist Temple includes three Taoist temples in one complex: Sanqing Temple, Taihe Temple and Yuanchen Temple. Sanqing Temple is the most architecturally important of the three structures, while Yuanxuan Taoist Temple has carvings of divine beings. The central hall is covered by yellow glazed tiles and decorated with the bright images of Yuqing, Shangqing and Taiqing, the three authoritative deities in Taoism. The temple is located near Bi Village in southwest Xinhua Town. You can take the No. 9 bus from Hua Du Downtown. (Admission ¥2)

* The dwellings of overseas Chinese from the early 20th century in Kaiping (开平).

* Foshan (佛山) is only an hour away from Guangzhou. Famous for its Ancestry Temple (祖庙), it is also the home to legendary Wong Fei Hong, a martial art master.

* Hong Kong (香港) is 2-3 hours away, depending on the modes of transportation. It is so busy that some people call it "America on Steroid."

* Humen (虎门) in Dongguan (东莞) is famous for its Opium War era relics (虎门销烟). It is a bridge away from the Nansha District.

* Shenzhen (深圳) is a new city on the borders of Hong Kong, one of the first special economic zones set up in China. Check out theme parks such as Windows of the World, The China Folk Culture Villages and Splendid China. Frequent buses and trains are available (Tickets around ¥60 - ¥80). The trip will take 1 to 2 hours. Make sure you have your passport while traveling to Shenzhen, they check it when you enter Shenzhen, although you are still in Guangdong, China.

* Zhuhai (珠海) is another special economic zone to the south, at the border with Macau. You can get a bus ride from any of the major bus stations in the city. ]]> Thu, 01 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=694 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=6626 0 23.1166667 113.25 View over West Lake
View over West Lake
[edit] Understand

Famed for its natural scenery, Hangzhou and its West Lake (西湖 Xī Hú) have been immortalized by countless poets and artists. The city was the capital of the Southern Song Dynasty from 1127 until the Mongol invasion of 1276, during which time the city's population is estimated to have been as high as one million, making it the largest city in the world. Even Marco Polo claimed to have passed through, calling it "beyond dispute the finest and the noblest in the world".

With the gradual silting up of its harbor much of the city's trade and industry passed to nearby Shanghai, but the city still has a bustling population of 1.7 million and ranks as one of China's most popular tourist attractions.
[edit] Get in
[edit] By plane

Despite the name, Hangzhou Xiaoshan International Airport (HGH) generally services domestic Chinese flights. There are frequent services to Beijing and Hong Kong, but using Shanghai's domestic Hongqiao or international Pudong airports and connecting by bus or train is also a viable option. International flights are possible. International cities that have service to Hangzhou include Tokyo, Osaka, Bangkok, Seoul, and Singapore.

The airport is approximately 45 minutes - one hour away from the city by taxi. A taxi to or from the airport is around Y80-90; on the wayback, you should ask if the driver is willing to take you that far before just jumping in the car with all your bags. A cheaper route would be to buy tickets for the shuttle service (15 RMB) to/from the Xiaoshan Bus ticket office on Tiyuchang Road next to the KFC just west of Wulin Square. The Shangri-La Hotel also has a shuttle service to/from the airport for Y50, inquire within.

Alternatively, if flying into Pudong Airport in Shanghai, there are direct buses to Hangzhou. They leave from the 2nd floor parking lot across from Gate 15 of Pudong Airport, departing every 1.5 hours from 10:30am until 5:00pm. It costs Y100 (Summer 2005 price). These buses arrive at the Hangzhou Yellow Dragon Sports Center (soccer stadium).
[edit] By train

A train from Shanghai is the easiest way to get to Hangzhou. Frequent trains run from Shanghai Zhan (Main) Railway station and from the new Shanghai South Station, both on Metro line 1. Check the train schedule for the duration of the trip as some trains are considerably faster than others. In general, the train will take between 1 hour and 45 minutes to 2 hours and 30 minutes, but "local" trains can take over 3 hours. Also, it is better to arrive in Hangzhou at the main Hangzhou station, rather than the East Hangzhou Railway station as the main station is right in town.

In addition to Shanghai, Hangzhou Train Station serves trains from Guangzhou, Beijing, Chengdu, and everywhere in between. For destinations further away, such as Kunming and Urumqi, you would first want to go to Shanghai or some halfway-point train station. There is an East Train Station as well, but it is not a very nice part of town. Recently there is a new train started which takes 2 hours from Hangzhou to Shanghai and its quite convenient. - Utkarsh
[edit] By bus

Hangzhou has 4 bus stations (N, E, W, and S). Usually, your destination corresponds to the bus station, eg if you are going to Shanghai, try the north or east bus station. If you are going to Huangshan, buses leave from the West Bus Station, etc.

For travel to or from Shanghai, the bus has become at times more convenient than the train, as it can be more comfortable if only hard seater train tickets exist, and the buses depart more frequently than trains. From Shanghai, buses depart from the north bus station (Hengfen Lu), the PuDong bus station (Bailianjing, PuDong Nan Lu), and from Xujiahui Bus Station, ticket cost Y58 (Dec. 2005 price). These buses arrive at the north bus station of Hanzhou.
[edit] By boat

There are overnight boats to Wuxi and Suzhou along the Hangzhou-Beijing Grand Canal. Tickets can be purchased at the wharf ticket window one block north of Wulin Square (208 Huancheng North Road). The mid-range and upper level tickets are worth the splurge (tickets are between 70 and 130 renminbi). Bear in mind that the overnight voyage is mostly in darkness, so don't expect much scenery.
[edit] Get around
[edit] By bus

Hangzhou has an extensive bus network, but you must be able to read Chinese to ride the crowded buses with ease. However, any bus that has a "Y" before the bus number (Y2, Y5, etc) are always "youke" - tourist buses, and are guaranteed to take you to a tourist site for ¥3 - ¥5. Therefore, if you want to just ride Y buses around all day, you will save money and still see the sites without having to tell the taxi drivers where you want to go in Chinese.

Otherwise, a bus with just a number will cost you ¥1, and a bus with a "K" before the number (air conditioned) is ¥2. Night buses are usually ¥2.5. Don't take those prices as regular, since buses in Hangzhou are operated by different companies, which means different prices. But even if you don't understand Chinese, don't worry about this, since the fare is written at the bus line station, so you can prepare your coins in advance. (Better have the exact fare, because they don't give change money). You can also give them the 1 RMB-bill instead of some coins, even when the system says "just coins". Payage is directly with the driver, buses in Hangzhou don't have a salesperson inside as they have in Shanghai.
[edit] By taxi

Like most major world cities, Hangzhou has a large number of taxis which allow for quick and convenient travel within the city proper. Most of the city's taxis are green in color and easily identifiable by the word "Taxi" printed in both English and Chinese on the vehicles. Taxis for hire are marked by the green (or sometimes yellow-orange) light-up signs above the dashboard on each car.

Hangzhou taxi drivers always use the meter as required by law. All routes under four kilometers are charged a flat rate of 11 RMB (addition of a 1 RMB gas increase mandated by the government as of August 1, 2006). There is no time-cost in Hangzhou for the taxis; it's just for the distance. It is advisable to take a receipt each time use you a taxi, should you wish to contact the taxi company or driver at later time to dispute a fee, recover a lost article, etc.

Few, if any, of they city's taxi drivers speak English or other foreign languages. It is therefore important that you be able to point out your destination on map, present the driver with the name of the destination (in written Chinese), or properly pronounce the name of the destination in spoken Mandarin Chinese. If you have a Chinese acquaintance whom you can reach by cell phone, you can allow him or her to speak to your driver through the phone to convey the desired information.

Hangzhou taxis are not allowed to carry more than four passengers, although you may be able to convince or bribe a driver to allow you to "hide" an extra passenger in the backseat. This can be worth if the trouble or expense if it saves your group from needing to take two taxis.

Taxis, like all public transportation, are difficult to come by during the tourist weeks (Chinese New Year, May Golden Week, and October National Week); also, taxis between 7:30 and 8:45am and 5:30-7:00pm are difficult to flag, as they are always full or in the middle of a shift change. A good rule of thumb is that if you need a taxi, there won't be any, but if you don't need one, they will be driving extremely slow in the right lane disrupting traffic and honking and flashing their brights at you. Being familiar with areas that taxis frequent or places where taxi passengers are likely to be dropped off at will aid you in finding a ride.
[edit] By subway

Line 1 is scheduled to be completed in 2008, and line 2 shortly thereafter; a total of 8 lines covering over 200km have been planned. The opening dates of the lines are "last", it means they can open earlier in case they pass the security checks quicker. For example, Nanjing's new subway system was opened ahead-of-time, after safety checks were passed, and the same happened in Shanghai. Don't be surprised to take the subway as early as 2007.
[edit] By "water bus"

This ferry down the Grand Canal takes 30 minutes but only makes 4 trips per day, the first at 7:30am and the last at 6:00pm. It starts at Wulin Gate/West Lake Culture Plaza and ends at Gongchen Bridge, with one stop at Xingyifang Grand Canal Culture Plaza. Cost is 3 RMB. While rarely worth taking the trip, Hangzhou now has plans to connect a series of canals and streams throughout the city with the Grand Canal, West Lake, Yuhang River, and Qiantang River, making for increased water transport and a Venetian feel. When this will be completed (if it even happens) is anyone's guess.
[edit] By "water bus"

For just getting to the islands on West Lake, you get to choose between tourist trap Dragon or "Gaily-painted" pleasure boats (¥45 and ¥35). There are also medium-sized power boats (¥25), or for ¥160 you can hire a driver to paddle you around for about an hour. The boats are available in Hubin #X (1, 3, 6) parks and other obviously marked areas all over the lake.
[edit] Maps

Buy maps near the Train Station or Bus Station from street vendors or stalls when you arrive. Price is often marked on the maps themselves, if you are wondering how much to pay (under 10 RMB -- well worth it and hard to find maps elsewhere in town!). Street-bought maps are usually written in simplified Chinese with no pinyin. You can find pinyin maps at foreign language bookstores.
[edit] See
[edit] West Lake (西湖 Xī Hú)

Hangzhou's most famous scenic sight. Technically, there are "10 Scenes of the West Lake" and "10 New Scenes," but they are overrated, and often seasonal (Snowfall Over Broken Bridge, etc). Rather than make a checklist and walking back and forth looking for them, simply spend a clear day wandering the circumference of the lake and the causeways, take a ferry to the islands, and you will probably cover most of the sites anyway. The "West Lake" itself can be divided into countless smaller sites, from Mr. Guo's villa to "Orioles Singing in the Willows".

The "West Lake Scenic Area" itself is very large. This section only covers areas in the immediate vicinity of the lake. Other spots are covered in later sections.

* Lesser Yingzhou Isle (Three Pools Mirroring the Moon) "Built" in the early 1600s, this is the largest island on the lake. When there is a full moon, candles inside the pagodas are lit, and in the candle light it appears as though you see the moonlight (if you are romantic enough to see it). Hence the name.

* Mid-Lake Pavilion From 1552, it is the oldest island. There is a Chinese inscription on the Qing Dynasty-era stone arch in which the Qing Emperor wrote "Chong Er", or "Enless Love".

* Lord Ruan's Mound This is a mound they made from piling up dirt after dredging the lake 200 years ago. However, it is not just a dirt mound. At night (summer), entertainment activities are going on in the garden on the island.

* Hubin #X Park Hubin Parks 1, 3, 6 and probably the numbers in between are the parks between Hubin Road and the West Lake. Relatively newly-designed as the West Lake Tunnel that goes underneath was being built in early 2004, these parks are good to sit for a bit, buy ice cream or a newspaper, and most importantly hire a boat from the cluster of boat docks at each park.

* Su Causeway Almost 3km long, this causeway dates from the year 1189 and has a bunch of willows and peach trees. It is long north-south causeway that starts by the Shangri-La on Beishan Road and goes all the way down to Nanshan Road.

* Bai Causeway Starting at the eastern end of Beishan Road, this cause way leads to Solitary Hill and cuts off the distances between, say, Hubin Road and the Shangri La.

* Solidary Hill And Zhongshan Park Where Loud Wai Lou restaurant is located, this is the only natural island on the lake. At least 3 emperor's constructed palaces here. Besides an expensive restaurant, the popular area is the home of the Xiling Seal-Engravers' Society, and the seals, calligraphy, engraving-masters, and relics that go along with it.

* Yang Causeway This one is more than 3km long and one road west of the Su Causeway. It starts at the intersection of Beishan and Shuguang Road (which becomes Yang Causeway once you are south of this intersection); the causeway runs north-south. Yang Causeway includes Quyuan Garden (aka Qu Garden aka Qu Courtyard), which is the most popular spot to see tons of lotus blossoms (late spring > summer). The water area to the west of the top of Yang Causeway is Maojiabu Scenic area, with orchids blended into the water scenery. Another tourist spot on Yang Causeway is Mr. Guo's Villa, is was built in 1907 and is considered one of the most "classical" gardens in Hangzhou. At the southern end of the causeway, just before Nanshan Road, is a fish-viewing pond.

* King Qian's Memorial (Qian Wang Ci) 5 kings of the Wuyue Kingdom are buried here in this memorial on the south end of the lake off Nanshan Road.

* Wushan Square (吴山广场 Wu Shan Guang Chang) Wushan Square and Wushan Hill is a major town center in Hangzhou. The view from the top is excellent on a clear day, and there are also trails around the hills from behind the pagoda. The pagoda itself has been modernized with an elevator and nice open-air teahouse at the top, but the original bell is still intact and in use. This area also features easy access to Hefang Jie shopping street at the base of the hill, full of small pedestrian streets and shopping stalls. It is also extremely close to the West Lake itself.

* Jade Emperor Hill (玉皇山公园 Yuhuang Shan Gong Yuan) One of the least-visited sites in Hangzou despite its somewhat central location, this hill does not feature any prominent pagodas or temples, but can still provide a quiet escape and a nice walk. It is located directly south of Leifeng Pagoda. If you are playing along with the "10 Scenes of the West Lake" scavenger hunt still, the one that applies to the top of this hill is "clouds flying over Jade Emperor Hill".

[edit] Temples and pagodas

* Six Harmonies Pagoda (六和塔 Liùhé Tǎ). Down by the Qiantang River, about a 15 minute cab ride from the lake in light traffic, but it is a pretty road to drive down through all the tunnels and tea fields. Besides the pagoda itself, which is arguable the most prominent of all the temples and pagodas in Hangzhou, there is an adjacent park with hundreds of realistic replicas of the world's most famous pagodas, complete with mini-sized trees in front of the pagoda models.

* Lingyin Temple (灵隐寺 Língyǐn Sì) Meaning "heart of the soul's retreat", this temple west of the West Lake is an active Buddhist temple at the bottom of a hill. Nearby you can take a chairlift to the top of the hill where there is another temple (walking up is also an easy set of stairs below the chairlift). This is one of the 3 oldest and most famous temples in China. There are hundreds of Buddhist stone statues carved into the cliffs in the "Peak Flying from Afar" section next door.

* Leifeng Pagoda Located on the shores of the southeast side of the lake and originally built in the year 977, all that remains of the original pagoda is the crumbling foundation, viewable from outside the glass case that it is housed in (Pagoda Remains Memorial Museum at the bottom floor of the pagoda). With escalators, elevators, and a totally new pagoda places on top of the foundation, there is not much to see within the pagoda itself; it was most recently rebuilt in 2000. However, the view of the city skyline is one of the best from here, and some of the smaller seating areas around the perimeter of the pagoda have a nice breeze and view of the structure. One of the 10 Scenes of the West Lake is "Leifeng Pagoda in Evening Glow", but this is best viewed from a distance (across the lake) just after sunset. Keep in mind that the entry fee for the Leifeng Pagoda is very expensive (40 RMB/person, Dec 2005) and it's not original, just rebuilt, so if your budget is not that huge, consider to not enter the Pagoda. You can still take pictures in front of it.

* Baochu Pagoda (保俶塔 Bǎochù Tǎ) and the surrounding temples on this hill on the north side of the lake. You cannot climb the pagoda, but the view and surrounding Baoshi Hill are awesome.

* Jingci Temple Off Nanshan Road, built in 954, this has a huge 10-ton bell inside. Located on Nanping Road, they ring the bell 108 times here to ring in Chinese New Year. It is also rung every evening for much fewer times.

[edit] Gardens, forests, nature

* Longjing (Dragon Well) Tea Fields (龙井茶园 Long Jing Cha Yuan) and other tea fields further west. These are best visited during the harvest period, usually from the first week of March till after May Holiday, when everyone is out in the field picking tea and the tea that you can purchase is of the best quality (tea crops from later in the year have had their leaves damaged by the rain).

* Guo's Villa (Guo Zhuang) is the best existing traditional private garden in Hangzhou. It is one of the garden masterpieces of Jiangnan (the lower region of the Yangtze River) thanks to its incomparable surroundings and the smartly managed garden space. The garden develops as you enter further into it with regular switches between tight, closed spaces and sudden, open ones. The key feature, or spirit, is water. Cleaverly juxtaposing shade and light, curved and straight, yin and yang, the garden of Guo Zhuang is a wonderful embodiment of the Chinese wisdom of Tao and the Way of Nature. The teahouse, Liang Yi Xuan (Belevedere of Both Good) sits in a prime viewing sopt within the garden between two superb water "yards", one large and the other small. While there are plenty of "old villas" in China to visit-- and many are similar-- this one is also on the shore of the West Lake. The 10 yuan entry fee keeps many people away, and you can have some tea (40 yuan) on the lakeside pavilions of the villa while avoiding the tourists.

* Hangzhou Botanical Gardens (植物园 Zhi Wu Yuan) and flower nursery as well nearby. If you can't make it to Suzhou, these gardens aren't bad, especially in the spring and during the brief period when the leaves change in the fall. There is also a peacock farm, some nice ponds, and basically a wide range of plants and ecosystems to walk through. The redwood tree that Nixon donated during his visit has since died (in 2001).

* Xixi National Wetlands Park Opened in May 2005, this wetlands park is located in the extreme west part of the city past the west bus station. One of the easiest ways to get there would be to take a bus from Huanglong Soccer Stadium. While it may be somewhat out of the way and the road signs have the English translation as an uninviting "Xixi Swamp", this area is not to be missed, as currently the tourists are not too many, and it is a great way to see birds and other wildlife. The birds are especially beautiful and varied.

* Dreaming of the Tiger Spring (虎跑梦泉 Hǔpǎomèngquán) is a spring as well as a scenic and historic destination. The area includes wooded pathways, streams, bamboo groves, tea houses, historic structures, as well as the spring itself and other sights. Admission is ¥15. Tea brewed with the high-quality Tiger Spring water may be purchased for about ¥20 a glass.

* Hangzhou Zoo (杭州动物园 Hángzhōu Dòngwùyuán) It has pandas and everything and is conveniently located just south of the lake, but it is not recommended to visit most zoos in China, as the animals are exploited and treated poorly (generally speaking). At least stay away from the dog exhibit. This zoo is definitely one of the worst ones in China. Besides a few animals which have good cages (mostly water-animals) it has terrible conditions for the Panda, most Bears and other larger animals like the Elephants. Still, they made improvements compared to a few years ago, and it seems it's mostly the missing support of larger investments that seems to hinder further development in a better zoo. The entrance fee includes a circus-style animal show with tigers, lions, bears and elephants that is particularly entertaining for children (if a little depressing for adults).

Lesser panda in Hangzhou Zoo
Lesser panda in Hangzhou Zoo

On the northern side of Baochu hill near the soccer stadium is Huanglong Cave (For "Scenes of The West Lake", this cave covers "Yellow Dragon Cave Dressed in Green").
[edit] Do

* Early morning bikeride Start on the north side of the lake, and head west towards Zhejiang University, then down Lingyin Road past the Botanical Gardens and into Longjing Village. Keep heading West and south through the tea villages, bamboo forest, and scenic valleys to the river and cut over towards Six Harmonies Pagoda. Go back to the south end of the lake via the road right next to Six Harmonies, past the zoo, through the tunnels.

* Walk around the lake You can also hire small non-motor powered boats (¥80/hour for personal boat with driver, or use the ferry services) to take you around the lake and to the two islands, which feature some interesting sites.

* Visit the temples and pagodas The most popular ones are Baochu pagoda, which is the tower-like one on a hill on the north side of the lake. This hill is a great hike, with excellent views of the lake and city, several smaller temples of a variety of religions, and Huanglong Cave on the northern slope of the hill. 6 Harmonies Pagoda, located on the river, is the largest and most imposing. A fun hike after the pagoda leads from the shores of the river, behind the pagoda, and into the Longjing tea fields near the tea museum. Lingyin Temple, on the west side of the lake, is also a large complex with a surprisingly devout crowd of worshipers. This area also has many excellent hikes, as well as a cable car to the top of Beifeng Hill (with another temple at the top). Finally, Leifeng Pagoda has recently been rebuilt and has escalators and elevators, while all that remains of the foundation is on display on the main level. Despite its lack of ancient Chinese beauty, the benches and gazebo-like structures surrounding the area make for a nice place to sit in the breeze, and it also has an excellent view looking in the opposite direction as the Baochu area.

* Spend an afternoon at a tea house

* Shopping -- see the "Buy" section for more info.

* The West Lake Golf Club near Six Harmonies Pagoda and Songcheng was designed by Jack Nicklaus.

* Boating along the Hangzhou-Beijing Canal is becoming more popular.

[edit] Learn

* Zhejiang University, Yuquan Campus, [2]. This university is the product of combining four formerly individual universities: Zhejiang University, Hangzhou University, Zhejiang Agricultural University and Zhejiang Medical University. The university offers 110 undergraduate, 264 masters and 181 doctoral degree areas. Tuition is extremely affordable from a Western perspective. Courses in Chinese language and culture are ¥18,000 (~$2,250 USD) a year, ¥9,000 a term, or ¥800 (~$100 USD) a week and are taught mostly in Chinese (with occasional English).
* English Corner, an informal gathering of Chinese interested in learning English and English-speaking foreigners every Sunday morning. It is located in the park on the northeastern shore of West Lake by the Korean War Memorial (a statue of a soldier with a long, flowing overcoat).

[edit] Buy

* Silk Market on Tiyuchang Road. You can also get silk at other places in the city, but most of it will just be the fabric.

* Night market off Yan'an Road near Pinghai Road (right near Wushan) every night. Here you can find Mao memorabilia, jewelry, paper fans, pipes, luggage, handicrafts and other items that most Chinese cities have. Pirated DVDs and counterfeit handbags are for sale as well. You can also find a lot of those silk-screen printed paintings/embroidery things that the silk market also has. Bargain hard unless you really want something.

* Electronics Market in northern Hangzhou is an indoor, multistory electronics shopping center offering all manner of electronics including desktop computers, laptops, computer software, cellphones, mp3 players, and hundreds of peripherals and storage media. Pirated DVDs and computer games are offered as well, and if you are obviously a foreigner, vendors will shout "DVD! DVD!" at you to urge you to browse their selection.

* Tea Dragon Well/Longjing tea is famous throughout China and worth getting if you like green tea. If you are staying with a Chinese host somewhere else in China after Hangzhou, bringing them a small box (or two) of higher-end Longjing Tea would make a great gift; however, bear in mind that these usually cost around ¥300/box (more at tourist stands). The Longjing village and tea fields area of Hangzhou (southwest of West Lake) is where Longjing tea is grown. Besides being worth a visit for the scenic sights alone, tea can be purchased here as well - fresh from the harvesters' bags if so desired. Many places across the city also sell tea, such as informal vendors and small shops easily identifiable by the boxes displayed inside or store names such as "西湖龙井茶" (West Lake Dragon Well Tea), as well as grocery stores and supermarket chains. Because of the fame of Longjing tea, fake and low-grade varieties exist. If you have no experience buying tea, purchase from a reputable-looking establishment or ask the advise of a knowledgeable native.

* Clothes Hangzhou has literally hundreds of clothes and shoes stores. The largest concentration of these are on Yan'an Rd and especially Wulin Rd, making a straight line of clothes shops stacked on top of each other between Wushan and Wulin Squares. Another popular clothing spot is "Song Mu Chang" (松木场) just north of the lake on Shuguang Road. All of these places require bargaining and often have a lot of fake ripoff clothes. For the real thing, try the department stores (ie Hangzhou Tower across between Yan'an and Nanshan Roads). You can certainly find cheaper clothes stores scattered throughout the city as you get farther from the lake if you really like to buy clothes.

* Landscape paintings There are several places to buy Chinese landscape paintings in the city, especially near Wushan Square and around the south/east side of the lake.

* Groceries can usually be found without having to go far - hundreds of small grocery stores, convenience stores, and fruit and meat markets are scattered across Hangzhou. Use your own best judgment when deciding if the food sold at such places is sanitary enough for consumption.

* Carrefour have a supermarket in the downtown area east of West Lake. In addition its large selection of groceries, it carries a wider variety of Western foods such as cheeses and bread than most other locations in the city.

* Trust-Mart (好又多) is a superstore chain Westerners may recognize as being similar to Wal-Mart. Located in the shopping center near the Yellow Dragon Sports Stadium north of West Lake and the Baochu Pagoda area, the store has a large grocery section that boasts fresh meats, seafood, and produce as well as the normal selection of packaged food.

* Bicycles of low to medium quality are available from small bike shops scattered across Hangzhou. The indoor Electric Bike Market near the corner of Wener and Xueyuan Lu offers a huge assortment of electric bikes/scooters and batteries, and Trust-Mart (see above) also has a reasonable selection of bicycles and a small selection of electric bikes/scooters.

[edit] Eat

Hangzhou is one of the premier places to eat in China, and its food consists more of pork and seafood rather than the beef and lamb of the north and west. If you do not like Hangzhou food, you can find plenty of Sichuan, Shaanxi, and Xinjiang restaurants throughout the city. Typical Hangzhou specialties include dongpo rou, an extremely fatty chunk of pork in a syrupy sauce, and cuyu, which is fish with a vinegar sauce.
[edit] Budget

For budget restaurants, even near the lake, just head into an alley and get some food from a small restaurant or street-side stand. You should judge for yourself how sanitary the food is, but Hangzhou is generally fairly civilized in this respect relative to other Chinese cities. These restaurants are all quite similar.

If you like dumplings and have just come down the north side of Baochu hill (past the cave and in view of the soccer stadium), one option is to continue across Shuguang Road and up Hangda Road (0.5 blocks east and 1 block north) to Tianmushan Road. At the corner of Tianmushan and Hangda Roads are 2 decent dumpling restaurants with English menus available (one is upstairs from the other). They have many of varieties of dumplings, including all-vegetable.
[edit] Mid-range

Hangzhou has many KFCs, several McDonalds, and an increasing number of Pizza Huts throughout town, especially near the lake.

Other restaurants that are good and aren't as tourist-trappy can as Lou Wai Lou are located near the West Lake, usually to the East past Hubin Road in the Yan'an Road area.

For Xinjiang, try the restaurant inside Tiandu Hotel on Zhongshan Bei Road near Wulin Square. The Xinjiang restaurant on the 5th floor of Sanrui Tower (三瑞大厦) is better and more authentic, but more out of the way as well.

* Chuan Wei Guan. For Hot Pot, this city-wide chain (5 restaurants throughout town) is best, and this hotpot place also has several good Sichuan dishes.

* Grandma's Kitchen (外婆家) has at least 5 locations in Hangzhou, including one on Yugu Road near the soccer stadium and Zhejiang University. It has efficient service, a comprehensive picture menu, and is popular among just about everyone.

* Paradise Cafe, Hubin Road. "American" food including the best burgers in town (besides the Hyatt, arguably) are at Paradise Cafe. It has nice outdoor/patio seating on the 3rd floor with a large tree overhanging and a great view of the lake and the tourists below. With bacon and cheese, a burger will run around Y50. You can find most other Western food in the hotels.

* Zhang Sheng Ji (张生记), 33 East Qingchun Road. Out of the way but is also huge and now has branches all over China.

[edit] Splurge
[edit] Chinese

* Lou Wai Lou (楼外楼), right on the lake on an island off Beishan Road. The most famous restaurant in Hangzhou. Lou Wai Lou also has a second establishment called "Shan Wai Shan" right on the Botanical Gardens.
* Oriental Favorites Restaurant, Beishan Road (just past the Broken Bridge). A good replacement for Lou Wai Lou and has an equally good view with slightly cheaper prices (but it's still expensive).
* Hyatt Hotel, Hubin Road. Opened January 2005, the buffet here has everything you could ever want for about Y148 lunch and Y198 dinner with no drinks.

[edit] Japanese

There are lots of Japanese restaurants, many of which offer the "all you can eat and drink" deal for between 120 and 200 renminbi, which is a good deal when you consider the Sake and plum wine are included, and is a good way to start off a weekend night.

* Fu Gang, Tiyuchang Road (near Wulin Square). Hangzhou's most famous Japanese restaurant, although it does not offer an all-you-can-eat deal. It does have a sushi train and set meals though.

* Mu Zhi Lan, Nanshan Rd (next to the Bernini coffee shop). One of the best, especially location-wise. The all-you-can-eat deal is around Y180, but the seating and views are excellent, as is the food.

[edit] South-East Asian

* Banana Leaf, Xueshi Rd (next to the Hyatt on the east side of the lake). South-East Asian. Reservations are recommended on weekends. Although there is a pleasant atmosphere, many customers find that the food is untraditional and difficult to stomach. A nicer alternative is Curry Bistro near the Wenyi Lu Wumei shopping center.

* Liu Lian Piao Piao, Gaoyin Rd (just off Hefang Jie by Wushan Square). A newer Thai Restaurant. The food is more authentic than Banana Leaf, and if you are unable to find it, there are plenty of interesting restaurants on this street and it is worth taking a walk down.

[edit] Western

* Caribbean BBQ, Yan'an Road (near Wushan Square). It is not very authentic, but is a buffet-style restaurant that will probably at least leave you with a full stomach.

* La Tour, Hubin Rd. The oysters and some other buffet dishes are good, but the odd restaurant layout and lack of "take off" have made the dishes arrive cold, not taste very authentic, and are rather overpriced.

* Peppino, Shangri-La Hotel. Expensive but does have an authentic brick oven, great bread, and huge calzones.

* La Belle, situated across the street at the Lake, it offers real authentic, high-class Italian food. Especially recommended for lunch, where you can spend less then 50 RMB for getting excellent food. Dinner is usually a little bit more expensive, but you get a real great experience, usually with live music as well. I don't have a clue how this restaurant survives, since it's almost always empty, but instead of meaning "bad food" which is usually the reason to have an empty restaurant, it's more the place in the second floor (having stairways) that could hinder people to find it. Great to spend your evening in a lovely place, especially for couples.

[edit] Indian

* Haveli, 77 Nanshan Rd . Excellent Indian food, though not cheap. Indoor and outdoor dining.
* Indian Kitchen, 63 Nanshan Road, All you can eat/all you can drink buffet on Saturday & Sunday nights. ¥78, excellent service & excellent food.

[edit] Drink

The drink of choice in Hangzhou is tea, as the local Longjing (龙井, also Lung Ching, literally "Dragon Well") is the most famous green tea in China. Longjing is divided into seven grades, the two top being Superior (旗枪 qiqiang) and Special (雀舌 queshe), and the rest numbered from 1 down to 5. Prices for the very best stuff go into the stratosphere — in 2005, a mere 100g plucked from Qing Dynasty emperor Qian Long's personal trees sold for over US$17,000 — but a few cups in a local teahouse shouldn't cost you more than a few dozen yuan.

Traditionally, tea from Longjing is best served with spring water from Hupao (虎跑, "Tiger Run"), which is located next to the West Lake. You might have to purchase the tea from the tea shop in Hupao, instead of bringing your own. It's about 20 yuan per cup, but you get a thermal full of hot water with the purchase.

* Linglong Town, located on Nanshan Road to the west of most of the bars. Has large smoothies that are excellent for hot days. The restaurant also has many types of tea and good-tasting Taiwanese fare.

For bars, Nanshan Road all night every night should keep any visitor occupied. There are also a few bars (Reggae, Travellers, You Too, and Maya) on Shuguang Road due east of Zhejiang University. The "Cool Bar" on West Lake Ave by Wushan Square has Budweiser for as low as Y5/bottle (the Wushan Square area also has several other bars, including the popular expat hangout Shamrock Irish Pub). The Huanglong soccer stadium is full of bars around the perimeter of the building, as well as a "Huanglong Bar City" set behind the stadium.
[edit] Sleep
[edit] Budget

* Hangzhou International Youth Hostel, Nanshan Road (right on the south end of the lake and just off "bar street"). Run by Hosteling International and has a friendly staff. Y40 w/membership, Y50 without membership, per night, 6 people to a room (you can get doubles as well for about Y200, including a lakeview double for Y250). All rooms and toilet/shower are extremely clean. Despite being literally a few paces from the clubs of Nanshan Road, this hostel is set back far enough to be relatively noise free and features a comfortable courtyard/patio with a pond. The lobby also has a boring bar and an all-right breakfast.

* Green Tea Youth Hostel, Lingyin Road (near Lingyin Temple). Not affiliated with Hosteling International, this hostel is much quieter and set back in the hills, but the staff is not as helpful. Also, beware that the bar next door, "31 Bar", often has live music during the summer which can make this hostel even louder than the Nanshan Road one.

* Hangzhou Garden Youth Hostel opened in 2006 on ZhaoGong Causeway near the Hangzhou Botanic Gardens on the western shore of West Lake. It is part of Hostelling International and consists of a a beautifully restored historic courtyard building. Dorm rooms have very clean, upmarket ensuite bathrooms with 24 hr hot water. The hostel is very convenient for walking and sightseeing around West Lake but its biggest drawback is the distance to restaurants and nightlife. It is a 15 minute walk to the bar/tea house/restaurant strip on Shuguang Road.

[edit] Mid-range

You can find mid-range hotels all over the city, most of which will take foreigners. Try to bargain for a room. Ask how much they want for one night's stay, then say "what if I stay for 3 nights?" or something to that extent and it will become cheaper.

* SouthLine Hotel (Nanxian Dajiudian), tel. +86-571-8777-3939, e-mail southline@vip.163.com. A small but clean, well-located and reasonably well-appointed mid-range hotel one-half block off the lake and right next to the Zhejiang Art Academy on Nanshan Rd. Prices range from US$40 per night to over $100. The friendly staff speaks some (although limited) English.

* Jinhui Hotel (金汇大酒店), 7 Moganshan Road. A large hotel far enough away from the main sites to be a bit cheaper, but close enough to be a quick bike ride/taxi ride or even a 20-30 minute walk to the city side of the lake (all on the same street, just walk due south past the provincial government). One benefit of this hotel is that an English-speaking CYTS office is on the 3rd floor.

[edit] Splurge

* Shangri-La while the Hyatt may have better service, especially for business travelers, the Shangri-La has an ideal location, forested grounds, and is essentially a self-contained luxury village; a great place for a holiday.
* Radisson right on Wulin Square.
* Ramada (Haihua Binguan), Qingchun Road (near the West Lake). Located between Wulin Road and the West Lake, although lake-view rooms are somewhat limited and not very intimate.
* Hyatt, Hubin Road (right on the eastern shore of the lake). New and awe-inspiring.
* Wang Hu/Lakeside Hotel, Hubin Road, cnr Qingchun Rd, has a great location and fabulous international buffet breakfast.
* Huachen-Tang Palace (25. Pinghai Road) is a new four star hotel only 5 minutes walk to the West Lake and with a fabulous international buffet breakfast. Excellent money value. Link

[edit] Get out

* Shanghai — less than two hours away by train
* Suzhou
* Wuxi ]]> Thu, 01 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=694 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=6625 0 30.2552778 120.1688889 [edit] Get in
[edit] By plane

Nanning has an airport serving both domestic and international flights, though the latter feature only a few destinations on a non-daily basis. But there are plans to have the Nanning-Ho Chi Ming city and Nanning-Bangkok direct flights in the near future. Since Nanning city is the gateway of China to southeast asian countries, the local government put a lot of emphasis on connecting Nanning to capitals of every Southeast asian country. Getting there: There is a shuttle bus every half hour to/from Chaoyang Lu in front of the Minhang (CAAC) Hotel and next to the Yinhe Hotel close to the railway station. RMB 15 per person. 45 minutes.

You can also take a taxi. As of March 2006, a taxi will run you for about 75 RMB. If you're going to the city center or close by, don't let them charge you more. Have them use the meter.
[edit] By train

The railway station is at the northern end of Chaoyang Lu just north of the city center.
To Departure Price (Yuan) Duration (h) Last update
Beijing 0950 28 1 Nov 2006
Guilin 0513, 0559, 0825, 0828, 0950 (to Beijing Xi), 1049 (to Xi'an), 1415, 1524, 1829, 1942 65.00 5 to 6 1 Nov 2006
Kunming 18:10 ~200.00 10 5 June 2005
Pingxiang (Border to Vietnam) 7:58 30.00 3.5 30 June 2005
[edit] By bus

Nanning has two major bus terminals.

* Langdong bus terminal is on Minzu Dadao to the east of the city centre amongst all the new skyscrapers.
* Jiangnan bus terminal is on Xingguang Dadao way south of the city center. Buses to the south, Pingxiang near the Vietnam border, and Yangshuo (via Guilin) operate from Jiangnan. Getting there/away: Bus 41 (RMB 2, 20min journey) connects Jiangnan to Chaoyang Lu in the city centre. Catch them from the square in front of the terminal. Alternatively a taxi will take you for approx. RMB 5-Y10.

To Departure Price (Yuan) Duration (h) Last update
Pingxiang 7, 7:40, 9, 10, 11, 12:40,
14, 15:20, 16, 17, 17:40 ~35.00 5 29 June 2005
[edit] Get around
[edit] See
[edit] Do
[edit] Learn

Though the older people speak Cantonese (GuanDongMa), the younger generation speak Mandarin (PuTongHua) mainly. It's regarded as one of the most sucessful city in China in terms of popularizing Mandarin or 'common language'. So, it's a very good place to learn PuTongHua for foreigners. Universities offering Chinese courses are many, including Guangxi University for Nationalities, Guangxi University and so on.

Rembering with Mandarin there are 4 tones: flat, up, down-up and down; which are characterised by -,/,v,\ or 1,2,3,4. So for example to say Mandarin or PuTongHua it is really Pŭ Tōng Hùa or Pu3 Tong1 Hua4. Please note Pu1 Tong1 Hua1 means something completely different!

See also: [Chinese Language[1]]
[edit] Work

As a provincial capital, Nanning has a lot of working oppotunities compared to other cities of Guangxi region. The booming import and export business exchanges between Guangxi and Vietnam means that there is a big demand for people who can speak both Chinese and Vietnamese.Also, if you are a native English speaker, teaching jobs are also abundant.
[edit] Buy
[edit] Eat
[edit] Budget
[edit] Mid-range
[edit] Splurge
[edit] Drink
[edit] Sleep
[edit] Budget

Around the square in front of the station, there are several hotels offering bargains for rooms and dormbeds starting at RMB 15.

* Yingbing Hotel, (directly infront of railway station, on the right side of Chaoyang Lu if looking away from station). Excels with English-speaking staff 24 hour on duty and a comprehensive list of train and bus connections.

[edit] Mid-range

* Yin He Hotel, 84 Chaoyang Lu (right in the centre of town just south of the railway station and next to airport bus terminal). Tel: 86-771-2116688. Fax: 86-771-2420303. Conveniently located near the railway station, airport bus terminal, CAAC office, Langdong bus terminal ticketing office and other amenities. Some rooms newly renovated. Rooms from RMB 388, better ones from RMB 470.
* Jinyue Hotel, 59 Xinmin Lu (about 20 minutes walk or 10 minutes by taxi from the railway station, 10 minutes from Chaoyang Square. Access to hotel is from a ramp from Minzhu Lu opposite post office). Oldish business hotel with recently upgraded rooms in 2006. Clean and comfortable rooms, all with bath, telephone and TV. Rooms from RMB 388.

[edit] Splurge
[edit] Contact
[edit] Stay safe

Chinese cities are generally speaking very safe and Nanning is no exception. But petty robberies are quite common. On buses, it's advisable to be extra-careful about your mobilephones, wallets and so on.
[edit] Cope

Vietnamese Consulate: The consulate issues Visas for Vietnam. Regular service takes 14(!) workdays, but you can opt for express service (600 yuan), in which case you can retrieve your passport and visa at 18:00 in the evening. Address:

Ground floor, Touzi Dasha, 109 Minzu Dadao, Nanning.
Tel: (86-77) 1551 0562
Fax: (86-77) 1553 4738

You can either take a taxi there (ca. 15 yuan one way) or the local bus (1.2 yuan one way): Bus number 6 bound away from the railway-station; get off at the second stop after you crossed a big bridge. The consulate is in the first really high building you can see on the left hand side when crossing the bridge. (June 2005)
[edit] Get out

There is a train to Kunming, reportedly a sensational ride through isolated mountainous country.

The famously scenic tourist area around Guilin and Yangshou is only a short distance from Nanning. ]]> Thu, 01 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=694 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=6624 0 22.8166667 108.3166667 [edit] Get in

Pingyao has no airport. The closest major city is Taiyuan, two hours by train to the northwest. You can catch a train to here from Wuhan, Chengdu, Zhengzhou, and Beijing. All of these trains are overnight trains.
[edit] Get around

The Old City is small enough that you can do most locations by foot. But if you need to cross town between attractions, or are simply lazy, you can hire golf carts that wander the streets. Pay around Y5 for a ride if a single person, around Y15 for four people.
[edit] See

The main attraction in Pingyao is the Old City. This area is surrounded by a large wall. Admission to any of the 30 attactions inside the city, and the city wall, is a flat fee of Y120. This ticket is good for three days, but only if it is validated in the afternoon the previous day between 4:30-6:30. This can be done at the booth near Yamen Gate.

* Town Building/Bell Tower
* City Walls
* Rishengchang Financial House Museum
* Former Residence of Lei Lutai
* Shuanglin Temple

[edit] Do

* Visit during the Lantern Festival to see the town decked out in red lanterns.

[edit] Buy

Most of the Ancient City, at least the areas near the major attractions and the West Gate, are lined with shops that cater toward tourists. Standard Chinese bric-a-brac is for sale, at relatively high prices. Bargain hard and keep an eye out for stalls that sell handmade crafts right in the places where they make them. The city makes excellent cloth shoes, which you will see the locals wear as they march up and down the dusty streets.
[edit] Money

There's an ATM of the Agricultural Bank of China a few meters out of the south-western gate of the Ancient City. Foreign Maestro cards accepted (checked on August 2006).
[edit] Eat

Pingyao's speciality is Pingyao Beef. It has an acquired, strong taste. Be careful in some of the more touristy restaurants: outrageous bills of Y100 or more are not uncommon for a meal that appeared to be quite cheap. Be sure to ask about the price of any chef's specialities, and take a look at the bill as you are ordering your food.
[edit] Drink

Chinese beer, what else? There aren't too many clubs or bars, but you can sip a brew until midnight at many guesthouse restaurants.
[edit] Sleep

The Ancient City is full of guesthouses with Ming/Qing style beds. These are flat beds with ornate headrests that sit close to the ground. On the main street these beds can go for as much as Y400. Poke around backstreets and this price can easily quarter.

Fancy, Western-style accodmation tends to be located outside the Ancient City Wall.

* Harmony Guesthouse, 165 Nan Dajie (harmonyguesthouse@asia.com). Expect to pay about Y40 for a dorm bed, and between Y80-120 for a private double.

* Yamen Hostel, affilated with Hostelling International, [1]. Expect to pay about Y35 for a dorm bed, and maybe Y80 for a double. Discounts for HI members.

[edit] Get out

Mostly by train, although bus links are available with Taiyuan and other Shanxi locations. ]]> Thu, 01 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=694 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=6623 0 37.2025 112.1780556 The Hanging Monastery outside of Datong
The Hanging Monastery outside of Datong
[edit] Get in
[edit] Train

Trains from Beijing - an eight-hour journey.

Daily overnight trains run from Beijing to Datong and from Datong to Beijing. A hardsleeper ticket costs around 250,- Yuan. Booking tickets at the Datong train station can be difficult as for popular directions a large part of the tickets are hatched by black market sellers when they become available four days before the train runs. So book your tickets from Datong as early as possible. The night trains arrive and start from Beijing West Station (Beijing Xi Zhan).

The quickest way southwards (Shanghai, Hongkong, etc.) is over Beijing, and beside the night train there is is daily morning train, starting at 8:50, costing 45,- Yuan for a hardseater.
[edit] Get around
[edit] See
Huayan Monastery
Huayan Monastery

* Like many cities in China, Datong has it's own Drum Tower.
* The Hanging Monastery
* A 600-year-old screen made of glazed tiles and depicting nine dragons.
* The Huayan Monastery, which has the largest wooden shrine hall in China
* By far the greatest attraction of the area are the 1,500-year-old Yungang Grottoes. These mountain-side caves and recesses number more than 50 in all and are filled with 51,000 Buddhist statues - the largest being a 56-foot Seated Buddha while the smallest is only a few centimeters tall. In addition to the carvings of the Buddha, there are also scenes depicting Buddhist teachings and famous monks. The Yungang Grottoes are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Buses and taxis ply the ten mile route from Datong City to the Yungang.

[edit] Do
[edit] Buy
[edit] Eat
[edit] Drink
[edit] Sleep
[edit] budget

* Feitian Binguan, 1 Chezhan Qian Jie, ☎ (0352)2815117.

[edit] midrange

* Hongqi Dafandian, Houchezhan BeiLu, ☎ (0352)2816813 (fax: (0352)2816671).

* Yanbei Binguan, 1 Yuhe Beilu, ☎ (0352)6024116 (fax: (0352)6027287).

[edit] splurge

* Datong Binguan, 37 Yingbin Xilu, ☎ (0352)2032476 (fax: (0352)2035174).

[edit] Get out

Evenings around the Red Flag Square are quite entertaining and full of locals. ]]> Thu, 01 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=694 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=6622 0 40.0936111 113.2913889 [edit] Understand

Chengdu is located in the fertile plains of western Sichuan province. Due to its agricultural wealth Chengdu is sometimes called "Land of Milk and Honey". The Fulan river bisects the city although boat traffic, common until the 1960's, has all but disappeared. The greater city area is divided into five districts and 12 counties, altogether home to 9.2 million people.
[edit] Get in
[edit] By plane

The airport is located 20km outside of Chengdu. Chengdu airport is one of the main air hubs in China, ranked 5th in passenger volume. It has flights to most major cities in China and some international destinations including Amsterdam, Hong Kong, Bangkok, Phnom Penh, Singapore and Osaka. It serves flights to smaller cities within Sichuan Province, including the popular tourist destination Jiuzhaigou.

Taxi fare from the airport to the city center averages ¥45. There is no extra charge for luggage or additional passengers. Going from the city to the airport, add an additional ¥10 to cover the toll on the Airport Expressway. There is also bus no. 303, which will take you to the China Airlines office on Renmin Nanlu, right in the center of the city. It costs ¥10.

If you intend to take a taxi, be sure to turn LEFT when you exit the domestic arrival area toward the taxi stand and get in a marked, green-and-yellow or blue-and-yellow taxi. Turning right may lead you towards no-goods who are waiting to prey on foreign tourists with unmarked vehicles. Beware as these people sometimes sport official-looking ID, but is in reality fake. The fare offered will often exceed ¥100, and if you bargain with them, you may find yourself sitting in the cab for a while until agreeing to raise the price back up.
[edit] By train

The Chengdu railway station (成都火车北站) is located in the north of the city, a ¥15 taxi ride from the city center. Caution is advised in the neighborhood around the train station after dark.
[edit] By bus

For bus stations, there are three bus stations in Chengdu, and they serve different destinations:

* Chadianzi bus station (西门 Ximen), for Songpan and Jiuzhaigou Nature Reserve.

* Xinnanmen bus station (新南门汽车站), near the Traffic hotel, has daily buses heading to Leshan, Jiuzhaigou Nature Reserve, and Mount Emei and to Kangding in Kham.

* Wuguiqiao bus station, for Chongqing

From Chadianzi Bus Station
To Departure Price (Yuan) Duration (h) Last update
Dan Ba 7:00 ¥71 12 29 June 2005
Jiuzhaigou 7:20 8:00 8:40 14:00 ¥97.00-103.00 10 July 2006
Rilong 6:30 7:00 12:00 ¥43.00 5 29 June 2005
Ruo Ergai 7:00 7:20 ¥88.50 10 29 June 2005
Songpan 6:30 7:00 7:30 ¥74.00 8 July 2006
Wolong 11:40 ¥23.50 4 29 June 2005
From Xinnanmen Bus Station
To Departure Price (Yuan) Duration (h) Last update
Daocheng 10:00 ¥217.00 2 days 29 June 2005
Emei Shan 7:00-19:00 (every 20 min) ¥35.00 2-3 10 September 2006
Jiuzhaigou 8:00 ¥92.00 13 29 June 2005
Kangding 7:00-14:00 hourly ¥100.00 7 29 June 2005
Leshan 7:30-21:30 (every 20 min) ¥37.00 2-3 29 June 2005
Songpan 8:00 ¥74.00 9 29 June 2005

[edit] Get around

* Chengdu has an extensive system of city buses plying the streets. At each bus stop, there is a list of the bus lines coming through on this road, and on some city maps the whole network is displayed. Tickets are ¥1 for common and ¥2 for air-conditioned buses respectively.

* Taxis are equipped with meters, which should be used. A free taxi will display an illuminated sign with Chinese characters in its dashboard. Taxi fares at ¥5 on flagfall and increase at ¥1.4 per km. The meter records fares in increments of ¥1. Try to have small change on hand for taxi rides.

* There are bicycle-propelled pedicabs called san lun che (三轮车) who will take you short distances. Fix a price (¥4-10) in advance.

* Most guesthouses have bicycles for hire. Check for technical problems before starting out unless you want to be held responsible for it later. If you leave your bicycle, do so in one of the designated "parking lots", where it will be guarded over for a small fee. If you can't find such a place, be sure to lock it securely against some structure.

* A subway system[2] is under contstruction. The first line is slated to open in June of 2008. It will start at Tian Fu Square and extend southward down Ren Min Nan road.

[edit] See

* Panda Research Base is the biggest facility of this kind in the world. Due to habitat destruction and other reasons, the Panda Bear is maybe the most famous endangered animal. The Research Base is home to some 60 giant Pandas, but also has some Red Pandas and a colony of black-necked cranes. The Research Center affords views of the pandas from much closer than is possible at many Western zoos. Be sure to bring your camera. The Research Base also has a small museum and a cinema screening related documentaries. A restaurant and souvenir-stalls top off the tourist installations. To get there on your own, you can take a taxi for about ¥35 from downtown Chengdu. Or, catch a northbound bus Nr.1 (¥1) and stay with it until the local bus-terminal. Leave the local bus-terminal through the exit leading to the long distance-terminal (LDT), but do not enter the latter. Instead, wait for the suburbian public bus Nr.1 to come by and stop at the left corner of the LDT. For another ¥1 it will take you to the Panda research center within 20 min. Get off when you see a big white Panda-Statue in the middle of the street. Admission fee is ¥30. The best time to visit is in the morning, when pandas are most active. It is possible to take your picture while holding a Red Panda for a fee of ¥50; occasionally during the morning you can take a pictures alongside a giant panda for a fee of ¥400 per person. Knowledgable English-speaking tour guides can be hired at the office by the Base entrance. The cost for a guide for a small group is ¥100.

* Chengdu Zoo The Zoo, located in the north of the city near the Panda Research Base, offers all the typical animals that one might expect in a zoo (elephant, tigers, giraffes, monkeys, as well as panda bears). While the zoo itself is large and spread out, some of the cages are woefully small and the facility seems understaffed. Might be good for a family to visit. Admission is ¥12 per adult. The zoo has vendors selling Chinese snacks as well as some carnival type rides.

* Sichuan Science and Technology Museum[3] (四川科技馆 ) Located directly behind the Chiarman Mao statue in the city center's Tian Fu Square, this huge 4 storey museum is filled with interactive exhibits about science, aerodynamics, space, mathematics, robotics and physics. Children will love the interactive displays and indoor playground on the 4th floor. Adults will appreciate the descriptions in both English and Chinese. Everyone will love the crowd-pleasers like the robotic orchestra and walk-through maps of Sichuan's waterways. Admission is ¥35 per adult, free for children. To get there, take a taxi or bus to Tian Fu Square and walk to the large building directly behind the Chairman Mao statue. Note: During weekdays this museum can be overrun by local school groups.

* Sichuan University Museum (四川大学博物馆 sichuan daxue bowuguan）[4] has an excellent display of local artifacts and is worth while way of spending an hour or two. The museum is one of the better in China and there are four floors of well lite, air conditioned displays with decent English translations. Starting in the basement, enter the first room where dozens of stone carvings dating from the Han dynasty to the Tang are on display. The room next door has a moderately interesting display on the museum's history and numerous examples of ancient bronzes and stone age artifacts. The first floor is mostly artifacts from the Ming and Qing dynasty, including furniture, silk clothing, and an interesting display of leather puppets. The second floor has the perhaps the most engaging display: artifacts and daily use items from ethnic minority groups in China's southwest, including Tibetans, Miao, Yi, Qiang, Jianpo and Naxi. The third floor has a decent display of calligraphy scrolls, paintings, and ceramics. The museum is located on Wangjiang Road (望江路), about a 15 minute ride from Xinnanmen bus station or a 40 minute walk. Admission is ¥10 and the museum is open from 9:00-5:00 seven days a week. It's telephone number is (028）5412313.

(Information as of 26 July 2006)

* Sichuan Opera Most guesthouses and travel agencies offer to arrange visits to these traditional shows. It's more like a burlesque cabaret than an actual opera, sometimes including magicians, musicians and dancers besides the traditional pieces. Of course the most famous is never omitted: face-changing and firespitting performed by dancers clad in colourful traditional costumes. You will follow the story sitting at your table, sipping on your constantly refilled tea cup and nibbling some salted snacks.
(Information as of 28 June 2005)

* Jin Li This neighborhood is part of the old city of Chengdu, it features hotels and small stores in and old-fashioned style. Antiques are sold in a variety of different stores. It is very popular among both tourists and locals, especially at night, with many bars and nightclubs.

[edit] Do

* Massage / Foot Washing Chengdu has establishments that offer massage or foot washing. Generally, these places cater to groups of people who come in together, relax in a private room, perhaps eating fruit or sipping tea, while receiving a fully-clothed massage or foot washing. Prices are very reasonable, often well under Y100 per person. A great way to relax with friends.

For up-to-date information on activities, places and attractions you should check out the "GoWest"-magazine's listings. You'll find copies in most bars or guesthouses.
[edit] Learn

The following universities accept foreign students (with the proper visa):

* Sichuan University
* Sichuan Normal University

* Those interested in ongoing, private classes in the Chinese language can hire a experienced teacher for ¥40-¥85 per hour. Ask for a referral at one of the universities, or from another student. Textbooks for learning Chinese are available at many local bookshops.

[edit] Work

* Job postings for English teachers are located in many guest houses, at Western bars and restaurants, anywhere foreigners congregate.
* The Peace Corps [5] has its China headquarters in Chengdu and places highly selected and qualified US Citizen volunteers in 2 year assignments throughout the region.

[edit] Buy

* There is a big antiquities-market close to the Green Ram Taoist-temple in the western city. From the temple, walk straight west. It's on your right hand side after you crossed the bridge over the channel. You'll find communist relics, old porcelain dishes, jewellery, calligraphy equipment and also some Tibetan stuff. Be warned that overpricing is excessive (10-20x the real price), so bargain hard.

* All sorts of plush pandas, and other panda trinkets, are sold at the gate of the panda base, as well as ones of a slightly higher quality at the shop inside the panda base itself.

* Supermarkets are located throughout the city, although the selection of imported foods is limited. If you must buy American food, and don't mind a 50% premium over US prices, Sabrina's Country Store at #54 Ke Hua Bei Lu, across from the western gate of Sichuan University and near Linshiguan Lu has friendly service and all imported products. Phone 8524-2987.

* Major retailers Cerrefour, Metro and Wal Mart have locations in Chengdu.

[edit] Eat

Sichuan being the most known Chinese food style within China, you will find no shortage of delicious Sichuan food in Chengdu. Most of the food is quite spicy, be sure to order non spicy (不要辣 bú yào là) or little spicy (微辣 wēi là) food, at least if you are not accustomed to it yet, or have a bottle of peanut milk ready to quell the fire. The local king of kings is the Hotpot, basically a big pot of oil, water and spices simmering in a hole in the middle of your table. Patrons choose from a big variety of skewered food including veggies, sea-weed, fish, beef, chicken, and dog's meat and proceed to boil them in the oil. After the meal, your bill will be calculated by counting the skewer-sticks.
[edit] Budget

* There are a number of stalls and hole in the wall type places all over town. Food here is dirt cheap - expect to pay no more than ¥8 for a meal, and the quality is good. Things to be on the lookout for are spicy bowls of breakfast noodles, double cooked pork, and dozens of dishes coated in "ma" the Sichuan chili spice famous the world over.

* There's an excellent place serving Uighur Food across the street from Sam's Guesthouse. Buns, noodles and more.

* Steamed buns (baozi) are sold for breakfast or lunch from street vendors throughout the city. Typical fillings you can request include meat, read bean paste, mushroom, or pork. Cost for 3 buns is ¥1. A container of soy milk (dou jiang) is about the same price.

[edit] Mid-range

* WenShu-Temple Vegetarian Restaurant is run by the monks of the monastery and offers a huge selection of vegetarian food, including dishes imitating meat-dishes. You can order special group courses if you can sum up about 10 people and check in advance. (86) 28-6938703

[edit] Splurge

* Bridge Restaurant This restaurnt is actually a historic bridge over the Fulan river. Sichuan food. Very good reputation within Chengdu. Expect to pay at least US$10 per person for food, drinks additional.

[edit] Western Food

Chengdu has a few local Western restaurants. Service is always friendly, although you should expect occasional mistakes, such as appetizers served at the same time as your meal. Chengdu is just starting to get accustomed to Western tastes.

* The Chengdu Bookworm[6] The Bookworm has something for everyone: it is an English language lending library, a Western restaurant, a bar, as well as an occasional venue for local singing and musical talent. Expats might want to join the membership library or take kids to the children's morning storey hours. Evenings, you might find a travel author reading from and signing books, poetry reading, or singing. Great place for to connect with others, catch up on some reading, or just relax.

* Grandma's Kitchen Western restauant with four locations around Chengdu, including one next door to Peter's on Zhong Hua Yuan.

* Peter's Tex-Mex Actually an American restaurant with some Mexican dishes. Peter's has good food. The Zhong Hua Yuan location （028） 85180903 also has homemade ice cream, the best ice cream you will find in Chengdu. If you are coming from out of town, the Zhong Hua Yuan location is right in a major expat area with lots of other restaurants and shopping surrounding it.

* Zoe's Barbeque & Restaurant 30 Renmin Nanlu 4th Section(人民南路四段30号) （028） 85593345 [7] - Southern American BBQ and more. Good food and good service, plus wireless internet.

* Fast food including McDonalds, KFC and Pizza Hut have locations throughout Chengdu. McDonalds and Pizza Hut add some distinctively Chinese offerings to their menus. Unusual cultural tidbit: At Pizza Hut only one trip to the salad bar is allowed per person. Notice how many Chinese turn their salad plates into artistic creations, stacked high with vegetables to share.

* All of the hotels in the "Splurge" category have Western restaurants or buffets. Call ahead for more information.

[edit] Drink

On the southern bank of the Jin Jiang there is a row of bars between Renmin Nanlu and Xinnan Lu.

* Highfly Cafe, 18 LinJiang Rd, 028-85442820 is a relaxed place with a tiny outside sitting area. They serve beers and western food including pizza and breakfast. There is one computer for free Internet access and a small book exchange (2 for 1).

* Feeling4Seasons Cafe [8], Orient Times Mall 2F, Xia dongda street (near Dongmen bridge), Chengdu. Phone 028-66208848. Good Italian coffee: espresso, cappuccino, especially latte. Also pasta and pizza. They also provide Internet service: wireless access for your laptop, loan of a wireless card if you don't have one, use of a PC if required. You can also burn CDs. It is also one famous China blog freelancer's cafe bar; he published a book named "Ten Years, Flying with one Dream".

* Shamrock Pub [9], #15, 4th Section, Renmin Nan Lu, 028-8523-6158 ( located near Linshiguan Lu and the US Consulate), an Irish pub in Chengdu is currently the hub of Chengdu's small expatriate community (of approximately 3,000). Friendly pub atmosphere and live music some evenings. In addition to drinks the pub serves dishes including pizza and other snacks. The pub has also sponsored several nonprofit organizations, including holding events for moon bear rescue and for the disabled. Copies of the informative Chengdu Sichuan book are available at the Shamrock.

* High Connections Coffee House [10] is located on the west side of Chengdu near Metro and the Southwest Financial University at Qingyang Qu Shuangqing Nanlu 6 Hao Fu A-20, 028-8732-5855. The coffeehouse provides a relaxing, comfortable, environment with soft lighting and easy-listening music. They have non-smoking and smoking sections. Bring your computer and hook up to the wireless Internet. They also have large conference rooms available for meetings.

[edit] Sleep
[edit] Budget

* Chengdu Jason's Nest Guest House (成都驴行天下青年旅舍), No.26 west way of south railway station, 0086-28-85125498, [11]. Fully-equipped hostel with spacious bright rooms, clean bunks, the Tibetan-style dining room and bar. Located in the leisure, entertainment, dining center of Chengdu, with most attractions within a ¥10 taxi ride. It's a ¥30 taxi ride from the airport or north rail station, a 10-minute walk from the south station, or call for a free pick-up. Helpful, very knowledgeable staff.

* Traffic Hotel (交通饭店; No. 6 Linjian St, 成都市临江路6号; tel. 028-85451017; [12]), conveniently placed just near Renmin Nanlu directly bordering the Xinnanmen bus station. This hotel is one hundred percent geared towards foreign backpackers and is a good place to around a tour or buy tickets. Four-bed dorms rooms are ¥30 per bed and three-bed dorms are ¥40. The rooms and shared bathrooms for ¥40 are very clean and come with a reliable air conditioner. Washing machines are available for ¥10 per load; bring your own detergent. Singles and doubles start at ¥200 and range up to ¥500.

* Chengdu Mix Hostel (Backpackers' Accommodation, Guesthouse & Youth Hostel) 成都驴友记青年旅舍, No.23 Xing Hui Xi Lu, Ren Jia Wan, Wan Fu Bridge, Chengdu, Sichuan, P.R.China. [13] [14], E-mail:mixhostel@hotmail.com. In downtown, with cheap beds, good shower, nice food, lots of people! Wi-fi for laptop, DVDs for you, free Internet, 20GB of Music, very friendly staff.

* Dragon Town Youth Hostel 成都市宽巷子27号, 27 Kuanxiangzi St, tel. 028-86648408, fax 028-86245901, reception@dragontown.com.cn, [15]. A five minute walk north of the Renmin park. Serving younger people and families, catering mostly for young western budget tourists. Many travelling services available from within the hostel, such as tours to nearby attractions, Tibet travel tours. Facilities include Internet access, restaurant and camp grounds. Cheapest accommodation is ¥15/bed with rooms starting from ¥100.

* Sam's Guesthouse 130 Shanxi Jie, samtour@yahoo.com: tel.028-86099022, 10 minutes walk from the Chairman Mao Statue at Renmin Nanlu. Look for Rongcheng Fandian (Rongcheng hotel). Sams Guesthouse office is next to the entrance to the Rongcheng Fandian. Rooms start from ¥80. Doubles are ¥120.

* Sim's Cozy Guesthouse 42 Xizhushi, tel :028-86288691, mobile: 8613980787075, simscozy@hotmail.com, [16] is close to Wenshu temple in the northern part of town. Opened in 2004 by two experienced travellers, it's located in a nice old house and has a fairly big seating area and a small garden. Care has been taken to avoid the typical pains of the traveller's everyday life, so for instance toilets are equipped with paper, there is a lockable security box at your bed, mosquito-coils adorn the rooms and corridors, the bar provides guitars and cold beers and so on. Staff is extremely friendly and helpful. They do arrange tours to several sights. There is Internet access for ¥5 per hour. A dorm bed is ¥15, doubles and triples with/without air-con are from ¥70 to ¥120. If you don't want to stay in the dorm, is advisable to make a reservation some days in advance.

* Xiaoguanyuan Hotel (小观园 xiǎoguānyuán), 成都市宽巷子40号, 40 Kuanxiangzi St, tel. 028-86640663, 028-86639883, 028-86640241. Beautiful garden and classical architectured hotel. Staff is Chinese speaking only though, but with a good location and rooms starting from ¥100, a very good offer. Just 50m from the Dragon Town Youth hostel. As at February 2007, Kuanxiangzi Lu is undergoing extensive reservations, and it appears that Xiaoguanyuan Rest House has closed down.

* The Loft Located three blocks north of Dragon Town Hostel. Very modern hostel. Use to be a printing factory but now converted to a contemporary style hostel. Has free pool table, free Internet access (Nov.2006), TV and DVD. Rooms are clean. Twins and doubles cost ¥120.

[edit] Mid Range

The vast majority of Chengdu's mid-range hotels are not afiliated with a national or international brand and generally charge between RMB 300 to RMB 700 per night. The hotels in this category can generally put up the facade of the more luxurious hotels, but often suffer noticeably from deferred maintenance or haphazard customer service. Many are geared mostly towards Chinese and Asian tour groups. The hotels listed below are the best of the bunch with lobby staff who speak at least a basic level of English and usually offer a free Chinese breakfast.

* Sunjoy Hotel #34, 4th Section of Renmin nan lu. The Sunjoy is a 7 story hotel with a nice Chinese restaurant, good facilities and small but nice rooms. Chinese breakfast provided. Located near US Consulate. About RMB400/night.

* Jin Jiang Inn [17] Part of a China-wide hotel chain; 3 locations in Chengdu; the South Chengdu Yulin location is near Ren Min Nan Road and the US Consulate. Good value for money with rooms from ¥129-179 per night. Rooms are small but clean and well apportioned. Breakfast and free internet provided. Secure lobby area and friendly staff.

* Super 8 Hotel[18] In the SOHO Building, #60 Ke Hua Bei Lu, phone 86-28-85250058. Located above an enclosed shopping arcade, near the Western Gate of Sichuan University. Free internet. No breakfast. Rooms are small and poorly designed and priced from ¥139-188 per night.

[edit] Splurge

Chengdu's luxury hotels provide world class service at very reasonable prices. Business and leisure travelers can expect, at a minimum, to find fluent English speaking staff, Western and Chinese restaurants, full conference facilities, business center, sauna and concierge service at all of these hotels. Room rates range from US$105 - $US200 per night for a standard or deluxe room. The Kempinski and the Jin Jiang hotel are generally the lowest price within this category.

* Chengdu Lido Sheraton[19] Modern, American managed hotel conveniently located in in the center of Chengdu near Tian Fu Square and the sports stadium, but a few blocks away from shopping districts. This hotel can accommodate the most discriminating of guests in luxury and world class service.

* Sofitel Chengdu[20]: French managed, overlooks Fulan river, similar to but more expensive than the Sheraton.

* Jin Jiang Hotel[21]: Chengdu's first international luxury hotel, the Jin Jiang still offers good service. While it has been eclipsed in luxury by the newer hotels listed in this section, it offers reasonable room rates and great service, with good facilities for conferences of all sizes.

* Kempinski Hotel[22]: German managed hotel offers hospitality and luxury. Great German events, including Ocktoberfest, Christmas and New Year's parties. Excellent gym, pool and workout facilities. Close to the United States Consulate.

* Holiday Inn Crowne Plaza Hotel[23]: The Holiday Inn goes all out to indulge its guests with the finest of service. Great service, very responsive management.

[edit] Contact
[edit] Consulates

* United States Consualte General[24] (美国驻成都总领事馆) #4 Linshiguan Lu, Chengdu. Phone 8558-3992. American Citizen Services hours Monday-Thursday 1:30pm-5:00pm, Fridays 9:00-4:00pm.

* Royal Thai Consulate[25] (泰国驻昆明总领事馆驻成都办事处) Located in the Kempinski Hotel: 42 Renmin Nan Rd. 4th Section C210-212, Sichuan 610041

* German Consulate General (德意志联邦共和国驻成都总领事馆) 25th Floor of Western Tower located at No. 19, 4th Section Renmin Nan Road, Chengdu 610041, Tel: (0086-28)8528 0800 Fax: (0086-28) 8526 8308

* Consulate General of Singapore (新加坡驻成都总领事馆) 31/F East Guan Cheng Square, No.308, Shun Cheng Main Street, Chengdu. Phone 86 28 8652 7222

* Consulate General of the Republic of Korea (韩国驻成都总领事馆) No. 2, Wangfu Oasis Hotel, Xianan Main Street of Chengdu. Phone 86 28 8616 5800

[edit] Phone

China's country code is 86. Chengdu's area code is 28. Coin-operated pay phones are located throughout Chengdu, and calling cards can be purchased from many vendors. Local landline phone numbers are eight digits long; cellular phone numbers in Sichuan are elevin digits long and start with 13.
[edit] Internet

Internet access can be found in most guesthouses and through cheap internet cafes all over town. Look out for the Pacman-character 吧 in the Chinese name for internet bar: 网吧.

* A large Internet cafe is located on the second floor of the Xinnianmen bus station, just 100 meters from the Jiaotong Fandian hotel. The connection is fast and access is ¥2/hour.

[edit] Stay safe

Thieves are prevalent around certain areas of Chengdu. Be careful around the Yanshikou markets and especially around the North train station. There are also many thieves on crowded buses who use razors to cut open pockets and bags. Also watch your bag at all times when riding bicycles around the city, thieves like to run alongside bicycles at traffic lights and reach into bags.
[edit] Cope

For such a big city, there's surprisingly little Western influence in Chengdu. It's definitely not Beijing or Shanghai. This might at first be a little trying, as the level of English is spoken is noticeably lower than other places, but it's really a blessing. Carry a phrasebook or get a guide, and enjoy a more authentic Chinese urban experience!
[edit] Get out

Chengdu is the gateway to Sichuan. Daytrips and trek can be organized to any major attraction is the province. The Giant Budda, Mount Qincheng, Stone Elephant Lake and Jian Chuan Museum can all be reached by regular bus or tour bus (ask your hotel for guidance). Families and those short of time might consider hiring a car with driver (¥300-900 per day, depending upon type of car and experience of driver, with cars booked at the luxury hotels the most expensive and highest quality).

* The Giant Buddha in Leshan is probably the most popular nearby destination. A day trip to this ancient man-made wonder should be about ¥100-150. Two day tours are available which combine the Buddha with a visit to the nearby Buddhist holy mountain Emei Shan.

* Mount Qincheng and the Dujiangyan irrigation system (built 250 BC) are easy day trips about 40km from Chengdu and make for a fascinating visit. You can do both sites in one long day, or better yet, plan to spend a day at each. Qingchen is a beautiful mountain with an extensive and well kept network of steps and pathways, and includes many pogadas, a small lake, and a chair-lift for those who don't want to walk. Dujianyan has a fascinating history and a marvelous swinging pedestrian bridge. Both trips involve lots of walking. The entrance fees for both sites are not cheap. The mountain is ¥90. The cable car up is ¥35 one way or ¥60 round trip. There is a boat one needs to take to cross a natural pond for ¥5. The irrigation system costs an additional ¥90 to enter.

* Stone Elephant Lake Ecological Resort(石象湖) [26] is a fantastic park with acres upon acres of live tulips and tiger lily flowers as well as nature walks and boat rides, and stone carved animals. The best time to go is during the Tulip Festival in early Spring and when the Tiger Lillies bloom in late summer, however, various flowers are usually in bloom from March through August and the nature walks are open year round. Bring your camera. Also bring a picnic lunch or eat in one of the several Chinese restaurants and noodle shops there. The park is about an hour and 15 minutes drive of pure highway driving south of Chengdu. Arrange a car to take you there or ask about bus service. Admission is ¥50.

* Jian Chuan Museum Cluster Industrialist Fan Jian Chuan built this campus of museums to explain the history of 20th Century China. This is the first privately owned museum in Sichuan (privately operated museums in China have only been permitted since the year 2001). The Museum campus contains four buildings about World War II in China - one explaining the Communist Party role, one the Kuomington, one about the American volunteer group "Flying Tigers", and one about Sichuan volunteers. There is also a the modestly named "New China Porcelian Museum", which actually tells the story of the Cultural Revolution through porcelians of that era. A museum that more directly addresses that era is under construction. You will also see buildings explaining the practice of foot-binding and one about prisoners of war. Nearby, you can also walk through a landlord's manor. Make a day trip out of it; the Musuem is in the nearby county of Dayi about an hour's drive from Chengdu. Admission is ¥60. Get around the museum cluster by walking or rent a bicycle built for two; a tea-house is located on site.

* Bi Feng Xia[27] Bi Feng Xia is a large ecological park in the mountains about a two and a half hour drive from Chengdu. It centers around a huge gorge with waterfalls. One can hike down into the gorge on well marked paths and take an elevator back up. The park also has special panda bear habitats, as well as a more traditional "zoo". The main reason to go here is for the walks and hikes into the gorge. The zoo, although filled with animals such as tigers, lions, bears, monkeys, and even a drive-through section, has woefully inadequate and sometimes smelly enclosures. (The enormous bird aviary is one exception). Admission is about ¥80, with additional charges for bus rides between different sections of the park. There is a hotel and basic restaurants on site. Given the distance from Chengdu, probably best to make an overnight trip if you wish to stay here.

* Further afield, you can also trek out to the Tibetan areas of Sichuan. Buses leave everyday for Moxi and other towns. These long bus trips from Xinnanmen-bus station (it's about seven hours to Moxi, and the heating systems on buses in the winter are painfully inadequate) pass through incredibly steep mountain valleys wandering through the Gongga Mountain range. This all terminates at the Hailuogo Glacier, a massive park nearly nine hours from Chengdu. A good two or three day trip.

* To the north there are the Sichuan horse plains and the Jiezhaigou Valley.

Train connections are available to Kunming in Yunnan, Chongqing and Xi'an. Frequent buses also leave for Chongqing, which is the beginning of many cruises down the Yangtze. These tours are available around town in Chengdu, and include transport to Chongqing, about three or four hours away. ]]> Thu, 01 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=694 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=6621 0 30.6666667 104.0666667 [edit] Understand

Xi'an, capital of Shaanxi Province, with a 3,000-year history, was known as Chang'an in ancient times. For over 1,000 years the city has been capital for 13 dynasties, and a total of 73 emperors ruled here. With so much history within the ground the city lies upon, it's no wonder that there are so many historical ruins and, in the museums, cultural relics. It's hard to believe that before the lifes of Christ, Mohammad, and Siddhartha, Xi'an was a world class city and already influencing the world outside of The Great Wall of China. As the eastern terminus of the Silk Road, traders from far and wide brought goods and ideas for sale and took goods and ideas back with them to their communities. In the present times, not much of its former glory remains within the city due to warfare and constant political changes throughout the ages.
[edit] Get in
[edit] By Plane

Xi'an Xianyang International Airport (IATA: XIY) is located 40 km northwest of the city centre. Flights are available to Beijing, Chengdu, Chongqing, Dunhuang, Fuzhou, Guangzhou, Harbin, Hohhot, Kunming, Lhasa, Lanzhou, Nanjing, Shanghai, Urumqi, Wuhan, and Xining within China, International flights are available to Bangkok, Hong Kong, Macau, Seoul as well as Nagoya, Fukuoka, Niigata, and Hiroshima in Japan.

Most people use taxicabs or the airport bus to reach town from the airport. Be careful though, one of the airport buses (from the airport to the Drum Tower) will try their absolute best to sell you expensive plane tickets and then upon getting off the bus you'll be hounded by a few dozen more touts and a large concentration people begging for money that were all seemingly waiting for you to get off that bus. It's probably best to avoid this route and take the bus to the train station instead.
[edit] By Train

There are plenty of trains transporting passengers to and from most of the major cities inside China. Located at the center of China, it often takes one day to travel from Xian to other cities by train.

Xian Station - located at the north end of Jiefang Jie

Approximate journey times to other major cities:

Beijing 14-18 hours, Chengdu 16-27 hours, Chongqing 14 hours, Guangzhou 24 hours, Kunming 36-53 hours, Lanzhou 10-13 hours, Lhasa 36 hours, Shanghai 18-24 hours, Urumqi 31-56 hours, Wuhan 14-18 hours and Zhengzhou 7 hours.
[edit] By bus

The main long-distance bus station is located across from main railway station

Approximate journey times to major local cities:

Huashan 2-3 hours, Lanzhou 8-10 hours, Luoyang 7-10 hours, Taiyuan 12 hours and Zhengzhou about 9-12 hours.
[edit] By car

Traffic is heavy, right of way is unheard of, the rule of thumb is keep going no matter what (although drivers do note red lights).
[edit] Orientation
Bell Tower （种楼 Zhonglou)
Bell Tower （种楼 Zhonglou)

The city is surrounded by a city wall, in its middle the Bell Tower (钟楼 Zhōnglóu). From this one, the four main streets descend into the four points of the compass.

* North-Street (北大街 Běidàjiē)
* East-Street (东大街 Dōngdàjiē)
* South-Street (南大街 Nándàjiē)
* West-Street (西大街 Xīdàjiē)

Don't get confused by different names in tourist guides, addresses and bus stops: Nandajie; Nanda-Street, South-Street; South-Avenue... are all the same.

Locals often speak about Within city walls and Outside city walls when talking about locations. Outside the walls, the southern part is the most interesting: it offers shopping streets, bars and some nightlife.
[edit] Get around

There are plenty of Buses departing everywhere in short-intervals (main lines every 5-10 minutes). If you are not confident enough with orientation, or if you don't liked packed busses, the cheap taxis are the best alternative, broadly available, except for rush hours.
[edit] By train

A subway system is planned for Xian running east to west. It will have a total length of 26.22 km, including 15 stations. As of 2004, Line 1 will be not be completed till 2009.
[edit] By bus

There are busses leaving regularly for the Terracotta Warrior museum in front of the Xi'an bus station (opposite the train station, within the city walls). Take bus 306 from the central bus station. It will take you to a parking lot right in front of the museum site within 40 minutes. A one way ticket costs 7RMB. Alternatively, most hostels run tours to the warriors with an English speaking guide. These aren't necessarily better, be prepared to spend a good portion of the day (as with any Chinese tour) visiting "terra cotta factories," "museums" and other tourist traps. But, you will get to your destination without dealing with the bus (the warriors are quite far outside of town) and not all of the public buses that go there are legitimate.

Regular busses within the city cost 1RMB (2RMB for air-conditioned, marked with a snow-flake) no matter how far you go.
[edit] By taxi

Watch the taxi drivers in Xian as the industry is not regulated as it is in other larger cities like Beijing. You may find yourself being taken on a long ride around town to get where you are going. It can also be difficult to convince them to take you anywhere - even to the railway station, if in doubt get your hotel or hostel to write down the place you want to go in Chinese. Trips within the city walls are generally in the 6RMB range; longer trips to the attractions south of the city are in the 12-20RMB range.

Some taxi drivers in Xian won't take you seriously when you tell them that you want to go somewhere and will drive off without you getting in.
[edit] By bike

Fortunately Xian's main sites (with the notable exception of the Terracotta Warriors) are bunched fairly close together, so renting a bike is a good option. Be wary of the narrow streets and cars that squeeze you out of the way.
[edit] See
[edit] inside the city
Drum Tower （鼓楼 Gǔlóu
Drum Tower （鼓楼 Gǔlóu
Shop in the Muslim Street
Shop in the Muslim Street

* City Wall of Xi'an - the only city wall to remain intact in China. In such great shape and wide enough to walk as on a promenade

* Shaanxi Provincial Museum, many artifacts dating back to the Bronze Age are on display

* Forest of Steles (西安碑林 Xīān Bēilín) situated in the Shaanxi Provincial Museum, this collection of 2,3000 stone tablets and epitaphs is the largest and oldest of its kind in China

* Big (Wild) Goose Pagoda (大雁塔 Dà Yàntǎ) Located at Ci'en Temple and built by Emperor Gaozong（Li Zhi) in 652 AD. Emblem of the city of Xi'an. Take bus No 41 or No 610 from the main train station.

* Little (Wild) Goose Pagoda (小雁塔 Xiǎo Yàntǎ). Located at Jianfu Temple and completed in 709 AD.

* Drum Tower （鼓楼 Gǔlóu） located in the exact center of the city and Bell Tower （钟楼 Zhōnglóu） located northwest within the Muslim Quarter

* The Grand Mosque (清真寺 Qīngzhēnsì), behind Drum Tower, built in a perfect mixture of Islamic and Chinese architecture styles with seating for 1,000 worshippers and the Muslim Street (回民街 Huímín Jiē) around it.

[edit] outside the city

* Army of Terracotta Warriors and Horses (兵马俑 Bīng mă yŏng). This mighty army of terracotta warriors and horses, found in three vaults a short distance away from the Qinshihuang Mausoleum, is perhaps the most popular tourist attraction of Shaanxi. An in-site museum has been built over these pits, covering a floorspace of 20,000 square meters and displaying 8,000 life-like terracotta warriors, 100 or so chariots, and 30,000 weapons - an assemblage billed as the Eighth World Wonder and a world cultural heritage site by UNESCO in 1987.UNESCO World Heritage List

* Banpo Village Ruins 6,000 year old ruins of a village site (residential and pottery-making areas) outside Xian as well as a burial ground and tools

* Famen Temple The 13-storied brick pagoda of the monastery, first built in 1609, fell down in the rain in August, 1981 and revealed a 1000 year old underground palace with 2,400 treasures belonging to the Tang and previous dynasties. These included gold and silver utensils, glazed wares, porcelains, pearls, precious stones and textiles, as well as religious items such as a finger bone of Buddha offered to the Emperor of China during the Tang dynasty.

* Huaqing Palace (华清池 Huáqīngchí), built by the Tang emperor Xuanzong near hot springs at the foot of Li Shan in Lintong County so he could frolic with his favoured Imperial Lady Yang to his heart's content

* Mao Ling Mausoleum - the tomb of the fifth emperor of the Han Dynasty has many stone carvings

* Qinshihuang's Mausoleum - Mausoleum of the First Emperor of China

[edit] Do

* Walk along the City walls and see the South Gate (南门 Nánmén) (illuminated at night)
* Bicycling around the city walls will take about 2 hours
* Walk through the Hui Muslim Quarter (回民街 Huímín Jiē) sampling food

[edit] Learn
[edit] Work

Native speaking foreigners, no matter what age, can easily find jobs as English teachers, for example at Kid Castle or Aston English.
[edit] Buy

Souvenirs

* If you are visiting the terracotta warriors, be prepared to meet some of the most hardcore hawkers you are likely to meet anywhere. If you keep quiet, they will usually bargain themselves down in front of you in desperate pleas for your money. Buy a 15cm Terracotta warrior for 5-10RMB even if they offer it to you for 45RMB. Wood-carved Buddhas and Dragons for about the same. They are fortunately kept at a distance from the actual site. Many travelers report enjoying this experience. It's definitely not a reason not go see the Terracotta Warriors.
* The best place to buy souvenirs in the city centre is behind the Drum Tower in the Muslim Quarter (around the Mosque). The seller usually offers you a very high price, and even if you bring them down by 50%, they will still make a big profit. This is also a good place to buy folk art, specifically folk style block prints in a single shop which go for about 50RMB if you can stand bargaining when the older gentleman artist himself is standing right there.
* Tang Tricolored Pottery is a style that was lost and has now been recreated from pieces of pottery found in tombs. It is graphic in image and eye-pleasing in color. The factory recreating the style offers over 100 varieties of items, like statues, animals, and utensils.

Clothes

Xi'an is amazingly cheap for clothes

* The East-Street (Dongdajie, the eastern of those 4 big ones descending from the central Bell Tower) has regular fashion shops
* The fancier one is the South-Street (Nandajie) with fine shops for clothes & shoes (f.ex. Louis Vuitton).
* Local youngsters buy in Baihuo-Market（百货市场）in Xiaozhai (小寨)，10RMB by Taxi from the centre. It's one of those fake-brand-markets. Sport shoes should be less than 150, pullovers and nice jeans sometimes less than 100, a lot of cheap fashion accessories. This is also a great place for DVDs and CDs, but be careful, most of them are pirate ones.

[edit] Eat

Yang Rou Pao Muo is one of the signature dishes of the area, it consists of a piece of bread and a kettle of lamb soup. The diner shreds the bread with his hands and places the shreds in a bowl, the soup is then poured over the shreds. Tong Sheng Xiang Restaurant is recommended.

The Muslim Quarter is located close to the Drum tower and is a vibrant area with many restaurants spilling out onto the street and mixing with the street sellers

Street food (mostly sold after sunset, or some near night clubs/bars after 11PM) presents a variety of local/regional dishes, ranging from noodle soups, dumplings, hot pot, and so on by tens of little food vendors on street side, each with a red lamp.

* Rou Jia Mo (sandwich like, with pork, beef or lamb, must try)
* Yi long bao-zi, basket-steamed dumplings (one basket 3RMB), common as a midnight snack.
* Guan Tang Baozi, steamed buns served with sauces inside)
* Rou Jia Mo, finely chopped pork stuffed in toasted wheat flour flat bread).

[edit] Vegetarian

* To the west of Da Yan Ta square is Tian Long Boa Vegetarian Restaurant. They do amazing fake meat dishes such as kao rou and chicken feet!! They have an easy to order from picture menu.
* Xiao Zhai Da Xing Shan Temple also has a vegetarian restaurant with dishes similar to to thos on offer at Tien Long Boa. There is no English on the menu, but choose and point works well.

[edit] Budget

A good way if you don't want the expensive hotel food or just want to try real Chinese cuisine, is to simply go into a small restaurant and point on your the dish somebody else is having and you will get a Meal for less than 10RMB (seldom 20RMB) per person.

* Wen Xin Jiaozi Guan (温馨饺子馆) is a good cheap place for Jiaozi（dumplings,if you speak Chinese. There is no menu, but endless suplies of fresh jiaozi of many flavors, from 4 or 5 RMB a bowl. It is at 123 Xushimiao jie, next to the Good World Hotel, off of Lian Hu Lu.

[edit] Mid-range

McDonalds, Pizza Hut, KFC or its Chinese brother Dicos are widely available within city walls for a change of the daily Chinese cuisine.

* Highfly Pizza (高飞), located a bit down the right street after coming out of South Gate (南门), offers best Pizza and other western food in town.

[edit] Splurge

* La Seine, french style restaurant recently opened at NanDaJie (南大街) near Bell Tower

* 'Tang Paradise Hotel', (Dinner Show) is located near the Wild Goose Pagoda in the Qujiang Resort of Xian. It is described as the largest theme park in Northwestern China with an area of 165 acres. The charm lies in that all the buildings in the park are built in the luxurious style of the Tang Dynasty. The best time to visit is at night when most of the shows, including fireworks and dances, are performed.

* The 'Real Love' [N34.23887 E108.93407] is located on ZhuQue DaJie (朱雀大街), opposite of the Small Wildgoose Pagoda (小雁塔). Located on the 7th floor it also has a roof terrace with a view to the Small Wildgoose Pagoda. The place offers excellent Chinese food of different styles. An English menu is available. Try the Baby Lamb Leg or the Fried Dumplings With Diced Beef.

[edit] Drink

Night clubs in Xian are not abundant since the hip-hop culture is not popular in the city. All clubs play the same music, a mix of Chinese disco and some pop music, but it might change slowly in future. But for now, don't expect latest charts or hiphop music. Most people go out between 10 p.m. and 1 a.m., but clubs are generally open until 4 a.m.

* Along the short Nandajie (南大街) are the most clubs (you can also eat on the street after late midnight). You will easily find the MIX (big light ad) and its neighbour Palando. Both are rather places to sit and drink. If you want a dance floor, go along towards South Gate, on the same side there are first Night Cat with some foreigners and OK-DJs and Kulala.

* The most popular club remains 1+1 (pronounced "yi-jia-yi" for the taxi driver）in the middle of Dongdajie (东大街) The club has 3 dance floors: first floor is mostly hiphop music, second floor is mostly techno and third floor is for slow jam music.

* In summer time, the area around South Gate (南门) is beautiful. East of it are three nice bars with terrace and garden.

[edit] Sleep

Xian is by no means cheap. A regular single room at a hotel will gouge you from 250 yuan and up. However, there are many low priced budget hostels starting as low as Y30 for a dorm bed, so if you're on a budget be sure to check around.
[edit] Budget

There are also 4 international youth hostels right in the center of the city, easy to find.

* 3e Hotels International, 54 Nandajie, Xian (located between the South Gate and the Bell Tower, right next door to a KFC on the West side of the street).

An absolutely beautiful single room with all the fixings and free broadband internet is 154 yuan. A plus is that right outside the door is a REAL COFFEE shop!

* Ludao Binguan, 80 XiBa Lu, Xian, ☎ (029)87420308 (fax: (029)82101222).

A nicer-than-average hotel and hostel. Dorm rooms are between 25-50 RMB, depending on the season and your bargaining skill. You can also get a reasonably nice hotel room for around 75 RMB, again depending on your bargaining skills. The manger Jim Beam is friendly.

* Xi'an Shuyuan International Youth Hostel, Xi Nanmen, Xian, ☎ (029)87287720 (fax: (029)87287721).

[edit] Mid-range

* Jiefang Fandian, 321 Jiefang Lu, Xian, ☎ (029)87698881 (fax: (029)87698882).

* Lijing Jiudian, 20 Xi Dajie, Xian, ☎ (029)87288731.

* Qingnianhui Binguan, 339 Dong Dajie, Xian, ☎ (029)87673002.

[edit] Splurge

* Bell Tower Hotel, Xi Dajie, Xian, ☎ (029)87279200 (fax: (029)87218767).

* Grand Mecure at Renmin Square, A few blocks north of the Bell and Drum Towers.

* The Hyatt, At the corner of Dondajie and Heping Lu (和平路), 10 minutes walk from the Bell Tower.

* Howard Johnson Plaza, Outside the South gate, a few meters to the west.

[edit] Contact
[edit] Stay safe

Xian is, like other Chinese cities, generally quite safe. Just watch out for pickpockets (usually children) in crowds.

pickpockets are more to be found during holidays. and pickpocketing is more likely to happen on the bus, in the East Street---the most properous commercial street in Xiann, and some of the most crowed resorts like the North Square of the wild goose pagoda where there is a fountin show every night.
[edit] Cope

Look at the Beijing site advisories, they apply to Xi'an, too. Most importantly, take paper tissue with you to toilets.

Generally, Western style accomodation will have toilets, whereas the very inexpensive "Zhao Dai Suo" will usually have communal facilities that do not include toilets. If you need to use toilets, learn to plan your day accordingly. Major tourist attractions will have toilets.

If you arrive in Xi'an by train, try not to be overwhelmed when you exit Xi'an's train station. There are usually aggresive hotel tout's looking for customers. Just insist that you already have a place to stay and tell them no, with a serious face ("Bu Yao"), but don't get appear too angry.

It is a good idea to check your bags at the left luggage office and then go into town to look for accomodation. This way you will not be overwhelmed by the burden of carrying your heavy bags or luggage around.
[edit] Get out

* Chen Lu Pottery, a 1 1/2 hour drive north of Xian, this community of potters has been producing pottery since the Tang dynasty and is well worth the look if pottery is your thing, private transportation recommended.

* Hu Kou Waterfall (壶口瀑布 Húkǒu Pùbù) located 150km north of Xian, private transportation recommended; can be combined with a day trip to Huang Di Mausoleum

* Huashan National Park approximately 2 hours by train or bus east of Xian. A 2000 metre mountain with spectacular views. It is possible to take the 2-3 hour (6km) walk up or take the 10 minute European built cable car for 元70. It is best to go for sun rise on the East peak. Take plenty of warm clothing for when the sun goes down. Basic accomodation is available, but can be quite pricey. ]]> Thu, 01 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=694 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=6620 0 27.5405556 106.4191667 The city is well known for its flatness and regular construction. There is only one hill to be found in the city limits (in Jingshan Park to the north of the famous Forbidden City). Like the configuration of the Forbidden City, Beijing has concentric "ring roads", which are actually rectangular, that go around the metropolis.

The International Olympic Committee has decided that Beijing will serve as the host city for the Games of the XXIX Olympiad, the Summer Olympic Games of 2008.

Beijing literally means "northern capital", a role it has played many times in China's long history. While various small towns and warlord capitals have been traced back as far as the 1st millennium BCE, Beijing first served as the capital of a (more or less) united China in 1264 when Kublai Khan's victorious Mongol forces set up the city of Dadu (大都, "Great Capital") to rule their new empire, from a northern location closer to the Mongol homelands.

After the fall of the Mongol Yuan dynasty in 1368, the capital was moved back to Nanjing ("southern capital"), but in 1403, the 3rd Ming emperor Zhu Di moved it to Beijing again and also gave the city its present name. This was Beijing's golden era: the Forbidden City, the Temple of Heaven and many other Beijing landmarks were built at this time. Beijing remained the capital into the Qing era and into the revolutionary ferment of the early 1900s, but in the chaos following the abdication of the last Emperor, Beijing was beset by fighting warlords. The Kuomintang thus moved the capital to Nanjing again in 1928, renaming Beijing as Beiping (北平, "Northern Peace") to emphasize that it was no longer a capital. However, the Kuomintang was eventually defeated by the Communists, who in 1949 proclaimed the People's Republic of China with its capital at Beijing.

Many tourist areas in Beijing are under renovation for the 2008 Olympics. The Forbidden City, Temple of Heaven, and Summer Palace all had sections under renovation as of the middle of March 2006. Sources say some of the renovations have been completed and moved onto other sections. As a plus ticket prices were reduced for these exhibits because of the closed off sections. Just be aware before the Olympics there may be continued renovations.

* Forbidden City (故宫 gù gōng) (also known as the Palace Museum) get there when the gates open (around 8.30am) if you want to walk through the vast and spectacular courtyards in relative peace. This is truly the spot to appreciate the might and grandeur of the Imperial Chinese court during the height of its power in Ming and Qing dynasties. Despite the transformation of the city around it, the Forbidden City remains mercifully relatively untouched. A few years ago there was a lot of local fuss when a Starbucks coffee shop opened in the Forbidden City, some interpreting this as a return to the bad old days of colonial domination. Despite the fuss it is still there, on an inconspicuous corner, and still serving coffee. Only 2/5 area of the palace is opened, but some places are under restorations and will be opened before 2008.

Tiananmen Square
Tiananmen Square

* Tiananmen Square (天安门 Tiānān mén) (largest square in the world!) Built by Mao to impress; his riposte to the Forbidden City, the square is surrounded by Soviet-style monuments and government buildings, and houses Mao's mausoleum at the end opposite the entrance to the Forbidden City. It remains an astounding place and a spot to linger and see visitors from all over China, many visiting their capital for the first time. There is a flag raising and lowering ceremony at dawn and dusk. There are 4 marble lions in front of the Tiananmen gate, the northwest one has a bullet hole on its stomach.

* Temple of Heaven (天坛 Tiāntán), south east of Qianmen and the Tiananmen Square. Not only a fine sight, but also surrounded by a lively public park, filled with local residents practicing tai chi, dancing and so on in the mornings and at weekends. A must-see in Beijing.

Summer Palace [March 2006]
Summer Palace [March 2006]

* Summer Palace (颐和园 Yíhé yuán) extensive gardens and the ruins of palaces constructed by the Qing emperors. Most visitors stay in the front hill area, but if you prefer quiet places, the west bank and back hill areas are good choices. There are some quiet and secret ruins, caves, and other fun stuff in the back hill area.

* Zoo (北京动物园) (they do have Pandas, but displays are not great, your best bet is to go to the Panda Breeding Centre in Chengdu, Sichuan Province). Some think the Zoo is one of the worst you will ever see (partly because of the way they treat animals), BUT the aquarium is one of the biggest in the world, and very impressive. The Zoo was built on the sites of some ancient gardens, has lakes, pounds, pavilions and other beautiful old buildings. The Soviet revival Beijing Exhibition Hall is located nearby and has a Russian restaurant, "Moscow Restaurant".

* Winter Palace (北海 Běihǎi) - Beihai is a good place to take a glance at Zhongnanhai (中南海 Zhōngnánhǎi), heart of Communist China. There's a big island and white pagoda which was built in the 17th century. The giant buildings westward outside are PRC's Ministry of Defence and General Staff, which, to be honest, ruin the scene of the west bank. On the north bank, you can visit some small but beautiful gardens.

* Yonghegong (雍和宮 Yōnghégōng) - (also known as Lama Temple or Palace of Peace) The temple was built by Chinese emperors who harbored a deep fascination for the Tibetan (Tantric) version of Buddhism. Over the years many Tibetan and Mongolian monks lived and taught here, and there are still monks in residence today. The temple is famous for its 18m statue of Maitreya Buddha carved from a single piece of sandalwood.

* Prince Gong's Mansion(恭王府 gong1 wang2 fu3) - The garden is fulled with Chinese tourists, and the mansion will be opened as a museum before 2008, which will display the life of princes during the Qing dynasty

* Legation Quarter - east of Tiananmen Square, once famous in the Boxer Rebellion, the legation quarter is now occupied by government offices and army offices but can still be seen from outside. There's a wonderful bakery store called "Sapporo" near the legation quarter, famous for its breads and cheesecakes.

* Beijing Botanical Garden and Fragrant Hill(香山 xiang1 shan1) - good place for weekend outings and picnics. The Fragrant Hill was a Qing imperial garden, burnt in 1860 but restored to its original grandeur, and famous for its mountain paths through the gardens as well as the Fragrant Hill Hotel, designed by I.M. Pei, designer of the Louvre Museaum Pyramid. The Beijing Botanic Garden, steps away from the east gate of Fragrant Hill, has a silent and beautiful retreat area called Cherry Glen. Sir Johnston, last emperor Puyi's teacher, had a villa in Cherry Glen and is available to visit.

* The Hutong Villages (胡同 hú tòng) of Beijing most represent the traditional housing of Chinese locals. Some of the streets in the Qianmen Hutong (前门胡同) have a history around 500 years, with unchanged street layouts. The Qianmen area is undergoing aggressive restoration and gentrification that will continue through 2010. As a result some of the streets are blocked by construction. The Hutongs are the perfect place to get a glimps of Chinese daily life. The majority of Hutongs have been demolished to make space for modern buildings. For these reasons, the Hutongs are considered very valuable and are a popular tourist attraction. Rickshaws carrying tourists weave in and out of the narrow streets of the Hutong Village to give individuals an up-close look at these homes.

* China Aviation Museum is a must see for all aviation fans. It is located about 50 km outside Beijing in Changping District and is probably better known by the name Datangshan. Best way to get there is to arrange a taxi from your hotel. The other more adventurous way is to take bus 912 from Andingmen bus station, just remember that 912 has some branch lines and not all of these go via museum. Museum hosts over 200 exhibits, many of them very rare. Entrance fee is ¥45.

[edit] Do

* Rent a bicycle and traverse some of the remaining hutongs. Companies like The Bicycle Kingdom [2] rent bikes for foreigners.
* Visit Temple of Heaven(天坛) early in the morning to see thousands of Beijingers starting the day with tai chi.
* Have a highly enjoyable and relaxing foot massage and/or pedicure etc. (for a fraction of the price in the West) from any of the respectable and professional offerings in central Beijing (in the vicinity of the Beijing Hotel for example).
* See a Beijing opera at the Laoshe Tea House (老舍茶馆) near Qianmen station. There always are short displays in the afternoon (about 40 min). They are free of admission, but you should buy a cup of tea. Long displays are in the evening. You should book a seat in advance, since the place is always crowded.

Buy

* Throughout nearly all markets in Beijing, bargaining is essential. Especially when browsing through large, "touristy" shopping areas for common items, do not put it beneath your dignity to start bargaining at 5% to 10% of the vendor's initial asking price. After spending some time haggling, never hesitate to threaten walking away, as this is often the quickest way to see a vendor lower his or her prices to a reasonable level.
* The true clothing market where the Chinese buy, is located in Xizhi Men, next to the Zoo. directions: in front of the Zoo there is a new huge building, which is just another big market, BUT behind it, there is the wholesale market, with the best prices, almost no need to bargain, and a lot of genuine goods (clothing).
* The Malls at Oriental Plaza (东方新天地) - East of Tian'anmen Square, next to Wangfujing Street. Shopping area (expensive) but provides you with a lot of buying opportunities from diamonds, to real (affordable) DVD's, (international) Music CD's and food.
* Wangfujing (王府井大街)- where most of the higher end shops are located
* Xidan(西单) - West of Tiananmen square. Several large malls near a substation, and look for the market, it's quite good - bargaining is a must (sellers even enjoy it)!
* Golden Resources Shopping Mall near Yuanda Bridge / Yuanda Road -- Located by West Fourth Ring Road (Xisihuan) in Haidian District, Beijing, the mall covers 680.000 square meters, the second largest in Asia. Multiple stories, snaking alleys, infinite shopping opportunities... you get the gist.
* China World Trade Center (Guomao) -- here you will find a lot of expensive stores and some international convenience stores.
* Silk Street (秀水街) -- 8 East Xiushui Street Jianguo Men Wai Dajie. This building is located east of Tian an men square. It was reopened in March 2005 as a 5 story air conditioned building selling entirely for foreign visitors with 'export' quality goods. You can find luggage, leather bags, clothing and Chinese artwork. This location caters entirely to foreign customers. The place stocks higher 'export' quality merchandise and out-of-season clothing.
* SanLiTun YaShou Clothing Market -- Located at 58 Gongti Beilu, this is very similar to Silk Street (see above) with slightly better prices. Its less touristy than Silk Street, and prices will start far closer to a reasonable sale price. The net result is the bargaining is far less agressive and you will probably feel more comfortable with your purchases here.
* For the more technologically-oriented tourist, Zhong Guan Cun (中关村）is a must. Located a couple miles from Tsinghua University, this area is dubbed "Silicon Valley of China." Sells everything from speakers to computer parts at an astonishingly low price. There are many salesmen who will try to make you go take a look at their shop, it is best to avoid them. If one looks around at the small shops inside the large malls, they may find a box filled with pirated CDs and DVDs, usually selling at 5 to 10 Yuan. Don't have too high an expectation of the quality, though, many of them are 'gun versions' filmed in the cinema with a camcorder. If you really want to buy it, look for '英文' (yingwen) which means English language.
* Sanfo is the leading outdoor gear stores in China and their stores in Beijing are located at Building 4, Entrance 5, Nancun, Madian (Metro 2 to Zhishuitan, bus 315, 344 or 345 to Madian, store is located southside of Bei Sanhuan, west of Madian intersection) and at Jinzhiqiao Dasha, Guomen, Chaoyang District (west entrance of China International Trade Center, continue west along northside of street to east side of second block of buildings).

Eat

The best way to eat good and cheap in Beijing is to enter one of the ubiquitous restaurants where the locals are eating and pick a few different dishes from the menu. Truth be told, anyone familiar with Western currency and prices will find Beijing a very inexpensive city for food, especially considering that tipping is not practiced in China.

Some of the cheapest and delicious meals can be had on the streets. Jiānbĭng guŏzi (煎饼果子) is one of the most popular street snacks, eaten from morning till night. This delicious pancake is cooked with an egg on a griddle, a fried dough crisp is added, and the whole thing is drizzled in scallions and a savory sauce. Hot sauce is optional. Diehard fans often go on a quest for the "best" jiānbĭng cart in the city. This ubiquitous treat only costs ¥2, with an extra egg ¥2.50.

Lamb kebabs (羊肉串 Yángròu chuàn ) and other kebabs are grilled on makeshift stands all around Beijing, from the late afternoon to late at night. Often, the worst looking grills offer the best taste, so be brave and try them all. Wangfujing has a "snack street" selling such mundane fare like lamb, chicken, and beef, but the brave can also sample silkworm, scorpion, and various organs all skewered on a stick and grilled to order.

A winter specialty, candied haw berries (冰糖葫芦 bīngtáng húlu) are dipped in sugar and sold on a stick. You can also find variations with oranges, grapes, strawberries, and bananas, or dipped in crumbled peanuts as well as sugar. This sweet snack can also sometimes be found in the spring and the summer, but the haw berries are often from last season's crop.
[edit] Beijing Roast Duck

This famous Beijing specialty is served at many restaurants, but there are quite a few restaurants dedicated to the art of roasting the perfect duck. Expect to pay around ¥40 per whole duck at budget-range establishments, and ¥160-¥190 at high-end restaurants. Beijing duck (北京烤鸭 bĕijīng kăoyā) is served with thin pancakes, plum sauce (甜面酱　tiánmiàn jiàng)， and slivers of scallions and cucumbers. You dip the duck in the sauce and roll it up in the pancake with a few slivers of scallions and/or cucumbers. The end result is a mouthwatering combination of the cool crunchiness of the cucumber, the sharpness of the scallions, and the rich flavors of the duck.

* Quanjude (全聚德), 32 Qianmen Dajie (前门大街32号), ☎ 6510 9608, [3]. 11:30am-2:30pm and 4:30-8pm. The oldest and most venerable of the roast duck restaurants, Quanjude is slipping these days, but its fame still brings many customers, mostly tourists eager for the "classic" experience. Ducks cost ¥168 each, and quality varies by location. The most reputable of Quanjude's 14 branches is the listed Qianmen location. Other branches are at Hepingmen (south of the subway stop), the east side of Tian'anmen Square, and Qinghua Science Park near Wudaokou.

* Guolin Restaurant (郭林家常菜). This well-kept secret among Chinese people has some of the tastiest and inexpensive ducks in all of Beijing. Half a duck is just ¥28. And all its other delicious, innovative dishes at a fair price keep its customers coming back: be prepared for a bustling, noisy atmosphere. Locations all over Beijing—look for a sign with two little pigs—including at Fangzhuang, Zhongguancun, Wudaokou, Xuanwu, and more.

* Dadong (大董烤鸭店), Tuanjiehu Beikou Bldg. 3, East 3rd Rind Road, southeast corner of Changhongqiao (团结湖北口3号楼，东三环长虹桥西南角), ☎ 6582 2892. 11am-10pm. Considered by some to be the best Beijing duck in the city, this upscale restaurant also delivers on a nice atmosphere. Reservations suggested. Also at Dongsi Shitiao 22A, Bldg. 1-2 of the Nanxin Cang International Tower (东四十条甲22号南新仓国际大厦1-2楼).

* Bianyifang (便宜坊), 36 Xingfu Dajie, Chongwen District (崇文区幸福大街36号), ☎ 6711 6545, [4]. Other locations at 73 Tiantan Dong Lu (天坛东路) and 2A Chongwenmen Wai Dajie (崇文门外大街甲2号).

[edit] Hot Pot

The other culinary specialty of Beijing is hotpot. Unlike the Southern Chinese and Thai variants of this dish, you cook the meat yourself in a spicy boiling broth. Raw meat is purchased by the plate, as with any vegetables or noodles you would like to add. A thick sesame dipping sauce is usually also served. While "raw" sounds dangerous, boiling the meat yourself is the best way to ensure that more risky meats like pork are fully cooked and free of germs. In the city center, hotpot can run as much as ¥40-¥50 per person, but on the outskirts it can be found for as little as ¥10-¥25.
[edit] Other Chinese cuisines

Indeed, Beijing provides an ideal opportunity to sample food from all over the Country. Sichuan, Hunan, Cantonese, Tibetan, Yunnanese minority cuisine, and many other region-specific cuisines are found in Beijing. Many, such as Makye Ame (11A Xiushui Nanjie Jianguomenwai Beijing Tel: +86 (10) 6506 9616) and Dai Nationality Restaurant feature live dancing and performance, and are not to be missed.

For vegetarians, Beijing's first pure vegetarian buffet restaurant is located on the Confucius Temple on Guo zi jian street, west of the famous Lama Temple. No English menu so far, but one can just ask for the buffet, which contains a large variety of delicious vegetarian dishes, as well as a vegetarian hotpot, and a large selection of dessert.

Sleep

Foreign visitors often are "restricted" to staying in high-priced official hotels, that restriction being less and less obvious as a great majority of accommodation now takes place in the form of low-cost hotels and hostels. Zhaodaisuos (招待所) are more difficult, and may be fully inaccessible altogether to the foreign community.
[edit] Budget
Red Lantern House hostel
Red Lantern House hostel

* Red Lantern House, No.5 Zhengjue Hutong, Xinjie Kou, Xicheng District. Absolutely adorable hostel with a genuine Chinese feeling. The courtyard in the middle is a great place to hang out, talk to new friends or just sit by yourself and read. Its location in a classical Hutong adds to the feel of experiencing the real China. Dorm beds from 45 Yuan, singles from 130 Yuan, doubles from 140 Yuan. They offer airport pickup for 160 Yuan.
* Qiao Yuan Fandian: Located not far west from Beijing South trainstation. About 20 yuan from Beijing Zhan (Beijing Train station) by taxi, or take buses 744 or 20; best from Qianmin near Tiananmen Square. There's a whopping 200 ya jin (key deposit) but 4 bed dorms with a/c are reasonabley priced at 31 yuan or 260/360 for standard suites, the more expensive option in the building in the back (newer). Level 6 has a laundry, kitchen, and travel agency. Internet access located towards the train station (look for the fish net character on the signs, or ask for 'wung ba') or a few blocks away to the west near KFC, McDonalds and a supermarket. Plenty of eating is nearby, and also don't miss the Art Deco interior of a hotel/restaurant when its lit up at night (head towards KFC).
* International Youth Hostel: Located directly across from Beijing Zhan (Beijing train station). Dorms 60 yuan (4-8 beds).
* Beijing Saga International Youth Hostel, No. 9 Shijia Hutong, Dongcheng District. Tel. 86-10-65272773, 65249098, Sagayangguang. This place is about a 15 minute walk from the Beijing Main Railway Station. From the station, follow the road North past the Beijing International Hotel. After about a ten minute walk look for the hostel sign with an arrow pointing down one of the hutongs on the left side. The hostel is very popular with backpackers. They charge 180 Yuan for a triple room, 160 Yuan for a double room and 40-50 Yuan for a bed in a dormitory (the price depends on how many beds are in the room). There's a restaurant on the top floor. The staff speaks some English.
* Beijing Far East Youth Hostel Far East Youth Hostel, 90 Tie Shu Xie Jie, Xuan Wu District. Tel. 86-10-51958811. It's in a traditional Chinese courtyard, about 10 minutes walking from Tiananmen Square. The Far East Youth Hostel has become very famous after having been added to major travel guides. During summer time you should book one week in advance.
* Leo's HostelLeo's Hostel is a good alternative to the Far East and is just around the corner. Leo's Hostel is in the same road as the Far East, has a free Playstation 2, Internet, Pool, lockers, maps, guides, magazines etc. It is well known for its friendly staff and lively bar atmosphere. It has a beautiful courtyard, with dorm rooms (45-70rmb) as well as private rooms (160-200rmb) Tel: (10) 63031595 or (10) 63033318.
* Changgong Hotel is one of the cheapest places in the Qianmen Hutong. It has an traditional arichitecture and is just next door from Far East and Leo's. Don't try to find any of the narrow roads on the map. Navigation is only possible by asking or in a riksha. Dormbeds are 35, a triple room is 210. Tel: (10) 63015088 or (10) 63032665.
* Eastern Morning Youth Hostel is a great budget option if price is your primary concern. The hostel is located in the basement of the Oriental Plaza shopping/office/residential complex next to Wangfujing. Private rooms cost about 90 RMB per night - book in advance. The staff does not speak much English but are friendly. Internet access is available at 10 RMB per hour. The hostel is located on Dongdan Santiao (which runs behind Oriental Plaza). It is a 5 minute walk to the Dongdan or Wangfujing subway stations and about a 15 minute walk to the International Hotel airport shuttle stop. Tel: (10) 65284347

Beijing is a very safe city. However, tourists are often preyed upon by cheats and touts. Be especially cautious in the inner city, around Tiananmen Square, and on the tourist-crowded routes to the Great Wall.

* For tours to the Great Wall, be wary: the driver might just stop and set you off before your destination. Only pay afterwards if you are absolutely sure you are at the destination. Do not go for organized tours to the Great Wall in the 100-150 Yuan range that are advertised by people handing out flyers around the Forbidden City (or in the latest scam, masquerading as the real bus service to the Great Wall which only costs 20 Yuan, but is guaranteed to waste your entire day). Conveniently you are picked up from your hotel (so they know where to get back at you, in case you will not pay), you end up on a shopping tour through many many Chinese art, China, Chinese medicine, etc. shops and afterwards you have to pay upfront to get back to the city. Of course, there are exceptions, and people showing letters of recommendation from their previous travels and pictures are usually ok, as are people offering trips to the wilder parts of the Great Wall (ie. not Badaling or Juyong).
* Do not follow any "students" wanting to show you something. They are most likely scammers or semi-scammers. Examples include "art students" who bring you to their "school exhibition" and pressure you to buy art at insanely inflated prices. Tea sampling is another scam. It is free to sample tea for locals, but for tourists...you should ask. In one incident, after sampling 5 types of tea with two "students", a group of tourists were confronted with a bill for 1260 Yuan! They even produced an English Menu with the extortionate prices for sampling. Young attractive female "students" also try to lure male tourists to shops, restaurants or night clubs. The prices at such places can be extremely high for basically nothing.

* Take care when offered a ride in a rickshaw. Make sure you know where you are going to be taken in advance, and agree a price in writing. you may well end up dropped off in a deserted alleyway and extorted for a large amount - 600 Yuan or more.

Be wary of fake money. You may observe Chinese people inspecting their money carefully, and with a reason: there are a lot of counterfeit bills in circulation. The most common are 100's and 50's. A few tips for identifying counterfeit bills:

* Be very careful if someone wants to give back the largest currency bill (50 and 100 Yuan) by the excuse of "no change". In an attempt to pass you a counterfeit bill they may tell you that they have lowered the price in your benefit. Or, they may ask you to contribute an additional sum in order to pass you the 100 Yuan. If they give you back all the change money plus the coins on top (though coins are rare in Beijing) take your time to check each bill carefully.

* Another version of the above trick is when a vendor refuses to accept your 100 Yuan bill claiming that it's fake. The truth is most likely that he took your genuine bill and discretely changed it for a fake one which he now is trying to give back to you. Hard to prove unless you see the swap.

* To check any 50 and 100 Yuan bill you get, do this: most importantly, check the paper. If its torn, thin or very slippery, ask for a different bill. Next, check the watermark, it should blur out softly. If there are hard visible corners in the watermark, reject the bill. Last, check the green "100" imprint on the lower left corner. It should be clearly painted on the bill so you can both feel and see a relief. If its missing or not feelable, reject the bill also. Rejecting bills is not considered impolite. If the colouring of a banknote is faded, it does not necessarily mean it is fake.

* Great Wall (长城 Chángchéng) (about a 1.5 hour bus ride from the city, recommended (but be aware of bus scams!) Two or more sections near the city have been restored and are available for tourists to walk upon. One section even has a ski lift up and a toboggan (or ski lift) down. The Wall is on top of mountain chains. You may want to bring a jacket against the wind or cold in the chillier season - in the summer you will need lots of water, there are vendors on the wall. The Badaling section is the most famous, but also the most over-restored and crowded. Jin Shan Ling, Huang Shan and Si Ma Tai are more distant (several hours drive) but offer a better view of the wall in a less restored state with fewer crowds. Mutianyu is well restored, but far less crowded than Badaling. Crowds are a definite issue with the great wall. At popular sections at popular times, it is not the Great Wall of China, but rather the Great Wall of Tourists. It is possible to rent a taxi for a day to take you to these sites. Renting a taxi should cost 400~450 yuan. For this price the driver takes you whereever you want, and will wait for your return.

]]> Thu, 01 May 2008 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=694 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=5194 0 39.9288889 116.3883333 India's largest city. One part of it, known as New Delhi (Hindi: नई दिल्ली Naï Dillî), is officially designated the capital of India, but the names are often used interchangeably.]]> Mon, 01 Sep 2008 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=694 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=5186 0 28.6666667 77.2166667 Jaisalmer, the "Golden City", is located on the westernmost frontier of India in the state of Rajasthan. Close to the border with Pakistan, the city is known for its proximity to the Thar Desert. Desert Safari in the sand dunes of Jaisalmer is an unforgettable experience.

The city is dominated by the Jaisalmer Fort. Unlike most forts in India, the Jaisalmer Fort is a living fort. There are shops, hotels, age old havelis (homes) inside the fort area. ]]> Mon, 01 Sep 2008 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=694 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=5179 0 26.9166667 70.9 Malay: Singapura, Tamil: சிங்கப்பூர) is an island-state in Southeast Asia, connected by bridges to Malaysia. Founded as a British trading colony in 1819, since Independence it has become one of the world's most prosperous countries, sporting the world's busiest port. Combining the skyscrapers and subways of a modern, affluent city with a medley of Chinese, Indian and Malay influences and a lush tropical climate, with tasty food, good shopping and a happening, vibrant nightlife scene, this Garden City makes a great stopover or springboard into the region.

"Disneyland with the death penalty" or the "world's only shopping mall with a seat in the United Nations" - William Gibson]]> Fri, 01 Aug 2008 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=694 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=5115 0 1.2930556 103.8558333 Wat Phra Si Sanphet
Wat Phra Si Sanphet
[edit] Understand

Founded by King U-Thong in 1350 within a bend of the Chao Phraya river, Ayutthaya was the capital of the Thai kingdom at its mightiest. Conquered and sacked by the Burmese in 1767, today only ruins of its splendor remain.

Among Thai cities, Ayutthaya's English name is probably the least standardized. Ayutthaya, Ayuttaya, Ayuthaya, Ayutaya, Ayothaya, Ayotaya, Ayudhya and even the Sanskrit original Ayodhya (usually referring to the Indian city) are all used.
[edit] Get in
[edit] By train

The cheapest and most colorful way of reaching Ayutthaya is by train. All north and north-east line trains depart from Bangkok's Hualamphong Train Station and stop in Ayutthaya, a trip of about 1.5 hours. Second class costs 35 baht (seats can be booked in advance), while third class is just 20 baht (no reservations).

Ayutthaya's train station is to the east of the central island. The easiest way to get to central Naresuan Road is to walk straight ahead from the station and take the cross-river ferry for 2 baht.
[edit] By bus

Buses operate every 20 minutes or so from Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal (Moh Chit) directly to Ayutthaya. First class air-con buses charge 45 baht, while second class is 35 baht. Allow at least two hours for the trip since the buses stop rather frequently and there are often jams on the roads out of/into Bangkok.

In Ayutthaya, the central BKS bus station is on the south side of Thanon Naresuan next to the Chao Phrom Market. songthaews to Bang Pa-In also leave from here. Some 1st-class buses to Bangkok, however, leave from the north side of the road some 500m to the west, on the other side of the khlong (canal); the queue for air-con buses is easy to spot.

From Kanchanaburi, take a local bus from the main bus station to Suphanburi for 45 baht (2 hours), then another local bus to Ayutthaya for 40 baht (1.5 hours). A taxi from Kanchanaburi costs 2000-2500 baht (2 hours).

There is also a central bus station east of town serving northern destinations. It can be reached by songthaew - ask around to find the appropriate stop.
[edit] By minibus

Convenient minibus service (can get stuck in traffic, but makes no stops like regular buses) operates from the Victory Monument square in Bangkok. Take BTS Skytrain to the Victory Monument station, and go right on the elevated walkway - keep on it until you cross a large road, then descend - the buses are parked at the side side of the main traffic circle). The cost is usually ~80 baht, takes around 1 hour.

Minibuses from Kanchanaburi can be arranged by guesthouses or any tour operators for around 350 baht.
[edit] By boat

Cruise boats run up the river from Bangkok, often stopping at Ko Kret and Bang Pa-In along the way. You'll need to book in advance as there are no scheduled services, just trips for tourists. It's a fairly lengthy trip (at least one whole day) and some of the larger boats offer (pricy) overnight tours.
[edit] Get around

It is advised to rent a bicycle. You should get a copy of a map for free at the shop that rents you the bicycle. If you are physically larger than most Thais, be warned that the larger bicycles are not necessarily well maintained, so be sure that they work properly (seats well attached, handlebars don't slip in relation to front wheel direction) before you leave.

Alternatively, you can hop around town by tuk-tuk or motorbike for 20-30 baht a pop. Ayutthaya's tuk-tuks are larger than the Bangkok variety and you can easily squeeze in four or more on the two songthaew-style facing benches. Only "official" tuk-tuk drivers can pick up passengers from the train station (their photos are displayed on a board at the southern end of the platform) and they are required to work to a fixed scale of charges.

The local bus to Lopburi leave the main bus station every 20 minutes and pass Wat Nah Phra Meru.
[edit] See

Most of Ayutthaya's sites are on the protected western half of the island, while the modern city sprawls to the east. There are additional sites off the main island.
[edit] Temples

The temples with entry charges are usually in ruins, so there is no dress code, although visitors are still requested to refrain from blatant stupidity like clambering up the Buddha statues. Working temples tend to charge no fees and there are often no officials to check that dress is appropriate.

* Wat Phra Si Sanphet (Sri Sanphet Rd) is the largest temple in Ayutthaya, known for its row of chedis (Thai-style stupas). Housed within the grounds of the former royal palace, the wat was used only for royal religious ceremonies. It once housed a 16-meter Buddha covered with 340 kg of gold, but the Burmese set fire to the statue to melt the gold and destroyed the temple in the process. Entrance fee of 30 baht.

* Viharn Phra Mongkol Bopitah (Sri Sanphet Rd) is next to Wat Phra Si Sanphet and houses a large bronze cast Buddha image. No entry charge.

* Ancient Palace (access through Wat Phra Sri Sanphet, no additional entry charge) is mostly low-lying ruins set in large grounds, with only a few free standing buildings remaining.

Wiharn at Wat Thammikarat
Wiharn at Wat Thammikarat

* Wat Thammikarat (U-Thong Rd) is a working wat, but also contains the ruins of a large chedi and a huge wiharn which has a large tree growing picturesquely out of the side of one wall. No entry charge.

* Wat Ratchaburana (Naresuan Rd) stands out for having a large prang recently restored to its original condition, clearly visible if you come in from the east. A major find of golden statues and other paraphernalia was made here in 1958, although much was subsequently stolen by robbers — the remnants are now in the Chao Sam Phraya Museum. You can climb inside the prang for nice views and a little exhibit. The mysterious staircase down, leads to two unrestored rooms with original paintings still visible on the walls. Entrance fee of 30 baht.

Headless Buddha statues, Wat Mahathat
Headless Buddha statues, Wat Mahathat

* Wat Phra Mahathat (Naresuan Rd), across the road from Wat Ratburana, is a large temple that was quite thoroughly ransacked by the Burmese. Several Leaning Prangs of Ayutthaya are still feebly defying gravity though, and the rows of headless Buddhas are atmospheric. This is also where you can spot the famous tree that has grown around a Buddha head. Entrance fee of 30 baht.

* Wat Phra Ram (Sri Sanphet Road) consists of one huge prang and some smaller chedi and outbuildings, all in disrepair though the top of the prang is complete. Staircases to the side of the prang give views of Ayutthaya. Entry charge of 30 baht.

Phra Chedi Sisuriyothai
Phra Chedi Sisuriyothai

* Phra Chedi Sisuriyothai (U-Thong Rd) is a white and gold coloured chedi built as a memorial to a previous queen. Set in a small, well-kept gardens. No entry charge.

Chedi at Wat Phu Khao Thong
Chedi at Wat Phu Khao Thong

* Wat Phu Khao Thong (about 3km out of town, west off the Ang Thong Rd) is a huge white, and slightly wonky, chedi set in a big field. The actual nearby wat is still working and has small grounds with a smiling fat buddha image set in the ruins of a small viharn. You will see the Monument of King Naresuan the Great on the way. No entry charge.

* Wat Cheung Tha (about 1km out of town, east off the Ang Thong Rd) is a small working wat with small grounds with chedi and viharn ruins and some buddha images. No entry charge.

* Wat Nah Phra Meru (about 1km out of town, east from Wat Cheung Tha) has a large viharn containing the biggest bronze buddha image in Ayutthaya, cast dressed in full royal regalia. The viharn is set in well maintained grounds with buddha images, a small koi carp pond, and three ruined chedis, one of which has a large bodhi tree growing out of the top of it. No entry charge.

* Wat Phanancherng (on the Bang Pa-in Rd, about 1.5km out of town) is a working wat which contains the oldest large cast bronze Buddha image in Ayutthaya, though it was covered in scaffold in June 2006 for refurbishment. There is a small room to the right of the main hall which contains a nice collection of Buddha images and the room is painted with many individual unique pictures, in bright colours offset with gold. Entry charge of 20 baht.

Wat Yai Chaimonkorn, Courtyard with Buddha Images
Wat Yai Chaimonkorn, Courtyard with Buddha Images

* Wat Yai Chaimongkon (on the Bang Pa-in Rd, 1km east of Wat Phanancherng) is a large working wat, with ruins that appear on some of the well known photos of temples in Thailand. It features a large reclining Buddha in saffron robes in its own ruined wiharn, and, most spectacularly, a huge chedi swathed in golden cloth set in a courtyard which is lined by Buddha images all wearing saffron robes. Very photogenic. Entry charge of 20 baht.

[edit] Museums

* Chao Sam Phraya Museum (Rojana Rd) is where you can find some of the Buddha heads that are so conspicuously missing at the sites themselves. Opened in 1961 and looks the part. Perhaps the most interesting displays are the golden regalia from Wat Ratchaburana, on the 2nd floor of Hall 1. Open Wed-Sun from 9 AM to 4 PM, entrance 30 baht.

* Ayutthaya Historical Study Centre (Rojana Rd), across the road and to the east of the Chao Sam Phraya museum, is a more modern museum that tries to depict life in Ayutthaya with models. A good place to start or end your tour, but a little pricy (by Thai standards) at 100 baht.

[edit] Parks/Other

* Phra Ram Park (behind Wat Mahathat) is a large wooded area with paths and bridges over waterways leading the way past various statues, buddha images and buildings. No entry charge.

* Khun Phaen Residence (Sri Sanphet Rd) is a renovated traditional teak house set in a good-sized park with water and various seating areas. The elephants doing the tourist circuit stop here for photos, with Wat Phra Ram in the background. No entry charge.

* Monument of King Naresuan the Great (in front of Wat Phu Khao Thong), is a large bronze statue of King Naresuan on a horse. Situated on the entrance road to Wat Phu Khao Thong.

[edit] Do
[edit] Buy

* Chao Phrom Market. Corner of Naresuan and Uthong Roads (on the east edge of the island). A bustling provincial market. There are particularly many protective Buddha amulet vendors here.

[edit] Eat

* Siam Restaurant (Chee Kun Rd) serves unremarkable Thai and Vietnamese food, but makes up for it with an excellent location with views of Wat Mahathat as you eat, air conditioning, and possibly the best toilets in the city. Most mains 50-100 baht.

* Boat noodle In front of telephone authority building. Original boat noodle was cooked on a boat. It's noodles and soup with meat and vegetables. They are served in a little bowl and most people would eat more than one to relieve their hunger. Expect to pay about 10 Baht per bowl.

* Vegetarian Restaurant,Khlong Makham Rieng Rd (50 metres south from the junction with Naresuan Rd), is one of the usual Thai rahn a-hahn jair. With 8 different meals available and side orders of gluten and gluten. Daily early-2PM. 15-25B.

* The usual excellent night market fare is also available, ask your guesthouse for the most recent night market locations. At the same time, you may wish to ask some advice on what to order if you don't speak any Thai.

[edit] Drink

The main traveller oriented area is Soi Torgorsor, between Pamaphrao Road and Naresuan Road opposite the western end of Chao Phrom Market. It has a number of bars staying open until late, some with projection screens for sports.
[edit] Sleep

There are a large number of traveller-oriented guesthouses on an Soi Torgorsor between Pamaphrao Road and Naresuan Road, opposite the western end of the Chao Phrom Market. Accommodation in the upper price brackets is limited though, and many people choose to day-trip from Bangkok.

* Ayutthaya Guest House - a friendly place offering aircon rooms with TV for 400 baht, and fan-only with TV for 300 baht, all en-suite. With internet access and a 'order what you like' restaurant. The three 300 baht rooms along the side alley have air vents open to a public restaurant next-door.

Other guest houses:

* Thong Chai Guest House - on a road directly opposite Wat Ratchaburana and a little away from the main action, but closer to the sights. Offering fan-only rooms at 200 a night with private bathrooms, this is a more Thai-oriented guest house.

* P-U Guest House - despite its name, the place provides very clean rooms for a decent rate (~300 Baht for twin with fan and private bath, some knowledge of Thai may net you a small discount). It's hidden off Soi Torgorsor, keep walking north until you see the P-U sign on the left, it's at the end of the small lane.

[edit] Stay safe

Ayutthaya has a lot of hungry stray dogs in poor condition. They can particularly be a problem in the off-season when there aren't so many people in the streets. While largely docile and harmless, to avoid being chased around by a pack of them it is best not to walk around alone, particularly at night. For those accustomed to travel in developing areas, there should be no problem.
[edit] Get out

* The eccentric palace of Bang Pa-In, 20 km to the south, is 40-minute songthaews ride away]]> Tue, 01 Jul 2008 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=694 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=5098 0 14.35 100.55 Grand Palace, Bangkok
Grand Palace, Bangkok
Palace Grounds
Palace Grounds

Bangkok (Thai: กรุงเทพฯ Krung Thep) [1] is the capital of Thailand and by far its largest city with an estimated population of over 10 million.
[edit] Districts

Bangkok is a large city, rising vertically and growing horizontally. Administratively it is split up into 50 khet (districts), but these are rarely used in practice and the visitor will find the conceptual division below more useful.
Districts of Bangkok
Districts of Bangkok

1. Sukhumvit – The long Sukhumvit Road, changing name to Ploenchit Road and Rama I Road going west, is Bangkok's modern commercial core, full of glitzy malls and hotels. The Skytrain intersection at Siam Square is the closest thing Bangkok has to a center.
2. Silom – To the south of Sukhumvit, the area around Silom Road and Sathorn Road is Thailand's sober financial center by day, but Bangkok's primary party district by night when quarters like the infamous Patpong come alive.
3. Rattanakosin – Between the river and Sukhumvit lies the densely packed "Old Bangkok", home to Bangkok's best-known wats. Yaowarat (Chinatown) and sights around the Chao Phraya River are also included here. Bangkok's backpacker mecca Khao San Road and the surrounding district of Banglamphu are located on the northern part of Rattanakosin.
4. Thonburi – The quieter west bank of the Chao Phraya River, with many small canals and some offbeat attractions.
5. Phahonyothin – The area around Phahonyothin Road and Viphavadi Rangsit Road is best known for the Chatuchak Weekend Market and Don Muang Airport.
6. Ratchadaphisek – The district north of Sukhumvit centered around Ratchadaphisek Road (part of which is called Asoke) and reaching from Phetchaburi Road to Lat Phrao. This area has really opened up recently as the new metro line follows Ratchadaphisek Road.

[edit] Understand
The concrete jungle of central Bangkok
The concrete jungle of central Bangkok

Just under 14 degrees North of the Equator, Bangkok is a tropical metropolis that is also one of the most traveller-friendly cities in Asia. A furious assault on the senses, the first things that impress many visitors are the heat, the congestion both on streets and sidewalks, the pollution inherent to rapid development, the squalor that accompanies a gaping chasm between rich and poor, and the irrepressible smiles of the Thais. Bangkok now has the fastest rate for high-rise developments in the world. (sometimes dissapoint the new comers to see the ancient architecture and a total distinct world of Asia, however, as they wander around, will find their expectations lie deeply rooted). Despite the sensationalized international news reports and first impressions, the city is surprisingly safe, more organized than it initially appears, and full of hidden gems waiting to be discovered. The high relative humidity and warm temperature favor the growth of tropical plants — you'll find exotic orchids and delicious fruit everywhere. Thai cuisine is singular, justifiably famous, varied, and affordable. Bangkok, for many, represents the quintessential Asian capital. Saffron-robed monks, garish neon signs, graceful Thai architecture, spicy dishes, colourful markets, traffic jams, and the tropical climate come together in a happy coincidence. It is difficult to leave with lukewarm impressions of the city.
[edit] History

Bangkok (originally Bang Makok) was a small village on the banks of the Chao Phraya river, until a new capital was founded on the west bank (present-day Thonburi) after the fall of Ayutthaya. In 1782, King Rama I built a palace on the east bank (now Rattanakosin) and renamed the city as Krung Thep, as it is now known to Thais -- the City of Angels (and much more: the full name is listed as the world's longest place name by the Guinness Book of Records; an English rendering goes like this: "Krung thep mahanakhon amorn ratanakosin mahintharayutthaya mahadilok pop noparatratchathani burirom udomratchanivetmahasathan amornpiman avatarnsathit sakkathattiyavisnukarmprasit" -- "The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city (of Ayutthaya) of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn"). The original village has long since ceased to exist, but for some reason foreigners never caught on to the change.
[edit] Addresses & Navigation

Addresses in Bangkok use the Thai addressing system, which may be a little confusing to the uninitiated. Large roads such as Silom or Sukhumvit are thanon (ถนน), often abbreviated Th or glossed "Road/Avenue", while the side streets branching off from them are called soi (ซอย). Sois are numbered, with even numbers on one side and odd ones on the other. Thus, an address like "25 Soi Sukhumvit 3" means the 25th building on the 3rd soi of Sukhumvit Road. While the soi numbers on each side will always advance upward, the numbers often do not advance evenly between sides - for example, Soi 55 could be across from soi 36. Many well-known sois have an additional name, which can be used instead of the number. Soi 3 is also known as "Soi Nana", so the address above might thus also be expressed as "25 Soi Nana". The extension /x is used for new streets created between existing streets, as seen in Sukhumvit's soi pattern 7, 7/1, 7/2, 9, 11. Note that some short alleys are called trok (ตรอก) instead of soi.
Bangkok
Bangkok

To make things a little more complex, some large sois like Soi Ekamai (Sukhumvit Soi 63) and Soi Ari (Phahonyothin Soi 7) have their own sois. In these cases an address like "Soi Ari 3" means "the 3rd soi off Soi Ari", and you may even spot addresses like "68/2 Soi Ekamai 4, 63 Sukhumvit Road", meaning "2nd house beside house 68, 4th soi off Ekamai, the 63rd soi of Sukhumvit". In many sois the house numbers are not simply increasing, but may spread around.

To further bewilder the tourist who doesn't read Thai, the renderings of Thai street names in the Latin alphabet are not consistent. The road running towards the (former) airport from the Victory Monument may be spelled Phahon Yothin or Pahon Yothin or Phahonyothin or Phaholyothin depending on which street sign or map you consult. It's all the same in Thai, of course -- only the romanisation varies.

And if that's not confusing enough, most of the larger streets tend to change names altogether every few kilometers. Sukhumvit is called Sukhumvit on one side of the tollway (roughly east), but it becomes Ploenchit just before you cross Thanon Witthayu (aka Wireless) going towards the river. Keep going just a few more streets and it becomes Thanon Rama I (usually said as just Rama I) after you pass Thanon Ratchadamri. But if you were to turn right onto Ratchadamri, in just a few blocks you'll find yourself on Thanon Ratchaprarop (past Petchaburi, aka New Phetburi, which is called Phitsanulok closer to the river). Got it?

But wait, there's logic to these name changes: most of them are neighborhoods. It wouldn't make sense to call the road Sukhumvit if it's no longer running through the Sukhumvit area, would it? Thus, Sukhumvit becomes Ploenchit where it runs though the Ploenchit area. It's when you're able to grasp the city in terms of its neighborhoods that it both becomes more navigable and more charming. Likewise, Pratunam and Chatuchak are much more than just markets; they're boroughs, each with its own distinct character.

Related to this last point, compass directions are not widely used by Thais to navigate in Bangkok. That's probably because they aren't very useful: the city's darwinistic layout, the changing street names, the winding river, and the lack of obvious landmarks all conspire to confuse your internal compass. Thus, asking for directions in terms of "is that west from here?" will probably earn you little more than a confused look from a local. You're better off to familiarize yourself with the neighborhoods and navigate to and from them. "How do I get to Thonglor?" will get you there faster than asking for directions to Sukhumvit Soi 55.

One exception: the Chao Phyra River is THE landmark in Bangkok, and many directional references can be made as "toward the river" or "away from the river". If you aren't TOO close, that is: since the river winds around the most popular tourist areas, river references tend to be most helpful when you're wandering farther afield than Banglamphoo or Sanam Luang or Rattana. And wander you should.
[edit] Get in
[edit] By plane

Bangkok now two airports operating. Allow at least three hours to connect between them.
[edit] Suvarnabhumi Airport

Departure tax

Bangkok charges a departure tax (called the "Passenger Service Charge") of 700 baht for international flights. This was payable in cash after check-in; however, it is now supposed to be included in airline tickets. If you purchased the tickets prior to Dec 2006, this may not be the case. Check your tickets!

Located 30 kilometers (19 miles) to the east of Bangkok, space-age Suvarnabhumi Airport (สุวรรณภูมิ, pronounced "soo-wanna-poom", (IATA: BKK) (ICAO: VTBS), [2] started operations in September 2006 and is now Bangkok's main airport, used by all international flights as well as all Air Asia and some Thai Airways domestic flights. There is only one terminal building, which covers both domestic and international flights, but it's huge (by some measures the world's largest) so allow time for getting around.
Suvarnabhumi Airport
Suvarnabhumi Airport

All the facilities you'd expect are available (transit hotel, ATMs, money exchange). The cheapest place to eat is the Magic food court on the 1st floor, while perhaps the most comfortable and relaxing of the airport's restaurants and cafes is the Sky Lounge on the 5th floor. Here you can have your latte while sitting in plush leather sofas and enjoying a panoramic view over the runways - prices are also quite reasonable with coffee around 70 baht a cup. There are a few stores in the check-in area including a convenience store and a post office; however, the real shopping experience awaits travelers on the other side of immigration in the departure lounge area where the number of shops and duty free outlets leaves you wondering if you are in a mall or an airport. Beware, though, that past security in the gate waiting area there is practically nothing except steel chairs.

Transportation

Limousine taxis (which charge by distance, e.g. around 800 baht to central Sukhumvit) can be reserved at the limousine hire counter on the 2nd floor (just outside Arrivals), and a limited number of ordinary metered taxis are available outside the exit on the 1st floor (take the escalator downstairs). If there is a huge taxi queue, consider taking a free shuttle bus to the satellite terminal, which has more taxis. There is a 50 baht surcharge on the meter, meaning that trips to the city will cost 300-400 baht (plus 65 baht highway tolls) and take 40-60 minutes depending on traffic.

There is also a stop outside the 1st floor exit for airport express buses [3], which charge a flat 150 baht and operate hourly until midnight, covering four routes, each taking about 60 to 90 minutes:

* AE1: Suvarnabhumi-Silom
* AE2: Suvarnabhumi-Khao San Road
* AE3: Suvarnabhumi-Sukhumvit
* AE4: Suvarnahhumi-Victory Monument-Hua Lamphong (train station)

Local (Bangkok) public buses to/from Suvarnabhumi charge a flat 35 baht. To take a public bus, you must first take a free shuttle bus ride (from the outside 2nd floor) to the separate terminal. The lines are:

* 549: Suvarnabhumi-Bangkapi
* 550: Suvarnabhumi-Happy Land
* 551: Suvarnabhumi-Victory Monument (BTS)
* 552: Suvarnabhumi-On Nut (BTS)-Klong Toei
* 552A: Suvarnabhumi - Sam Rong
* 553: Suvarnabhumi-Samut Phrakan
* 554: Suvarnabhumi-Don Muang Airport
* 555: Suvarnabhumi-Rangsit (Expressway)
* 556: Suvarnabhumi-Southern Bus Terminal
* 557: merged with 558
* 558: Suvarnabhumi-Central Rama II-Wong Wien Yai
* 559: Suvarnabhumi-Rangsit (Outer Ring Road)

These services take about 1 hour to 2 hours depending on Bangkok traffic and frequency is usually every 20 mins during daytime and night time ranges from 20 mins to 1 hour depending on route. Long-distance 1st class bus services connect Suvarnabhumi directly with Chachoengsao, Hua Hin, Nong Khai, Pattaya, Rayong, and Trat.

An airport express train to the future City Air Terminal at Makkasan (connecting to MRT Phetchaburi) and onward to Phaya Thai (connecting to BTS Phaya Thai) is under construction, but is not expected to be ready before the end of 2007 at the earliest. Die-hard rail fans with lots of time to kill can take bus 517 to Hua Takhe station (15 baht), a few km from the airport, and continue on any 3rd class train to Asok or Hualamphong (7 baht).

Accommodation

At present, there are only a few hotels located near Suvarnabhumi Airport, though with huge construction projects planned for the area this will change over the next few years. Day room facilities for transit passengers are now available at the 'Miracle Grand Louis Tavern' on floor 4, section G (Tel+66 6 317-2211, 2000 baht per 4-hour block, no reservations accepted). Cheapskate travelers looking for a free quiet place to doze undisturbed at night should head for the prayer rooms.

The Tourist Authority of Thailand and other hotel and tourist agencies have counters on the second floor of the main terminal. These agencies offer hotel reservation service. Check for special promotions and also whether the hotel offers airport pick up and drop off service - especially useful for late night arrivals and early morning departures.

* Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel, Suvarnabhumi Airport. Tel:+66 2 131-1111 res@novotelsuvarnabhumi.com [4]. The only hotel in the airport itself, connected to the main airport terminal by a pedestrian bridge. (As of Mar 2007, the pedestrian bridge is still not ready for use and passengers are taken to the hotel via a free shuttle bus service which takes less than 5 mins.) Rooms: 3,500+ baht.

* Queen's Garden Resort, 9-11 Soi 38, Suvarnabhumi, Lat Krabang. Tel:+66 2327 4118. Fax: 327 4004. The hotel is just 5-10 minutes from Suvarnabhumi Airport. Rooms 900+ Baht. info@queensgardenresort.net. www.queensgardenresort.net.

* Royal Princess Srinakarin, 905 Moo 6, Srinakarin Road, Nongbon, Pravet. Tel:+66 2 728-400. Fax:721- 8432 - a 20-30 minute drive from airport. Rooms 3,500+ baht.

* Sananwan Palace, 18/11 moo 11. Sukapibarn Road 5 , Bangpli Yai. Tel:+66 2 752-1658 ,(Mobile) +66 818644615. Family-owned budget accomodation with swimming pool, TV and high speed internet about 20 minutes drive from the airport. Rooms with A/C: 600 baht.

* Grand Inn Come Hotel, 99 Moo 6, Kingkaew Road, Rachataeva, Bangplee, Samutprakan. Tel:+66 2 738 8191-3 - about a 15-20 minute drive from the airport. Bus 553 stops here. Rooms between 1,200 - 2,000 baht.

* Avana Hotel, 23/1 Moo 12 Soi 14/1, Bangna-Trad Road. Tel:+66 2 763-2900. 3-star hotel about 30 minutes drive from the airport. Rooms 1,200 to 3,000 baht.

* Nasa Vegas Hotel[5]. 44 Ramkhamhaeng Road. Tel :+66 2 719-9888 Fax:+66 2 719-9899 - about 15 mins drive from the new airport. Rooms from 590 + baht.

* Ratchana Place[6]. 199 Moo 4, Soi Wat Sirisaothong, Bangna Trad Highway KM 26, Bangbo, Samutprakan 10540 Tel:+66 2 313-4480~9 booking@ratchanaplace.com - about 15-20 mins drive from the airport. Rooms between 350 - 700 baht.

[edit] Don Muang Airport

Don Muang Airport (IATA: DMK) (or Don Mueang), 20 km north of downtown, was Bangkok's main airport until 2006. The airport handles Nok Air, PB Air and most Thai Airways domestic flights, but the former international terminal is now limited to charters and general aviation.

The public taxi stand is located on the sidewalk outside the arrivals area (don't be fooled by all the taxi service booths in the main hall), and is probably your best bet for getting into town — it's also your only option after 11 PM. Give your destination (English is understood) and you will receive a two-part ticket at the booth. The charge into town will be the meter + 50 baht + toll if you take the expressway (recommended, 30-70 baht), for a usual total of 200-300 baht. The small part is for your driver, the large part is for you. This ticket is for complaints and is how the system is enforced: hold on to it to help avoid arguments later. The trip into town takes 30 minutes and up depending on traffic conditions.

If the line at the taxi stand is long or you need a more spacious car, you may want to book a (so-called) limousine from the desks in the terminal. This will get you a slightly nicer car at about twice the price (500-600 baht). Ignore any touts outside and do not get into any car with white license plates, as these are not licensed to carry passengers.

Across a covered overpass from the airport is the train station. Tickets to Hualamphong station cost 5 baht at the ticket booth. While taking the train is the cheapest way to get from the airport to Bangkok, it is not for the faint-of-heart: schedules are erratic, the run-down passenger cars often have beggars roaming through them, and are relatively empty late at night.

There are also a number of public transport buses going by the airport. Just take a overpass to the real road bypassing the airport and stop the bus of your choice. For example the air-con bus 504 will take you to the World Trade Center, from where you'll have access to the Skytrain as well as many other buses, or Lumpini Park, from where you get access to the subway, for 20 Baht. Note that large baggage is not allowed.

If you're flying Thai Airways, you can do a city check-in at Lad Phrao MRT station, from where free shuttle buses leave 1:50 before each Thai flight. The same buses also run in the reverse direction from the airport.
[edit] By bus

Bangkok's three official long haul bus terminals are:

* Eastern Bus Terminal - also known as Ekamai, this relatively compact terminal is located right next to Ekamai BTS station on Sukhumvit (E7). Ekamai serves Eastern Thailand destinations, including Pattaya, Rayong, Ban Phe, Chanthaburi and Trat.

* North & North Eastern Bus Terminal - also known as Moh Chit (or Mor Chit or Morchit), this is the largest, busiest, and most modern terminal. The upper floor serves the North-East (Isaan); the ground floor serves the North, as well as sharing some destinations with Ekamai (including Pattaya, Rayong, Chanthaburi and Trat). It's a 30-baht moto hop (or a lengthy hike across Chatuchak Park) from BTS Moh Chit/Metro Chatuchak stations (N8/18), or take the 77 bus and pay the 7-baht flat fare on board.

See the Phahonyothin District guide for more details.

* Southern Bus Terminal - also known as Sai Tai Mai, this older and relatively chaotic sprawling terminal serves all points west and south from its somewhat inconvenient location on the "wrong" side of the river. The terminal is scheduled to move to a new, even more remote location in Phutthamonthon Sai 1 in July 2007 — enquire locally.

See the Thonburi District guide for more details.

when arriving in Bangkok...

...late at night, the easiest way from Northern or Southern terminal to your final destination will be by meter taxi.

...by tourist bus you may find yourself delivered to their favorite hotel or guest-house, otherwise you'll probably be dropped off in the vicinity of one of the long haul terminals, or if it's a service catering primarily for backpackers, somewhere near Khao San Road.

[edit] By train

The three main stations in Bangkok are:
[edit] Hualamphong Train Station
Inside view of Hualampong train station, looking towards the platform
Inside view of Hualampong train station, looking towards the platform

The main station and the terminus of the Bangkok Metro line. Located right in the middle of downtown Bangkok, it is a huge and surprisingly nice station, built during the reign of King Rama VI and spared bombing in world War II at the request of the Free Thai underground. The station has a good tourist office. (Only listen to the people at the Info desk - anyone walking around offering to help you 'find' a hotel or taxi is just a tout, even if they are wearing very official looking badges).

Tickets for trains leaving the same or next day can be bought on the counters under the red/orange/green screens (see photo). The Advance Booking Office is located to the right of the platforms as you walk towards them and is quite well organised. You can select your seat/berth from a plan of the train, and payments by credit card are accepted.

The taxi pick up and drop off point is to the left of the platforms as you walk towards them, and is generally chaotic at busy periods with scant regard for any queue.

The left luggage facility is at the opposite end of the concourse, on the far right as you walk away from the platforms.

WARNING: The TAT Authorized Tourism Information offices in the second floor sell you a private "VIP bus" ticket if there is no place in first and second class trains. They offer a direct trip to the destination with a VIP bus faster than the train. Although the trip starts with a VIP bus, it ends up with a "surprise" transfer to a minibus and extremely long journeys. Just refuse the offered private bus ticket and buy public bus tickets from the main bus terminals if you cannot find ticket for train.

[edit] Bang Sue Train Station

If coming from the north or north-east, connecting to the Metro here can shave the last half-hour off your train trip. This is not a very good place to board trains though, as there is practically no information or signage in English. However, this situation will doubtless improve as more and more long-distance departures are switched to here from Hualamphong.

See Phahonyothin District for more details.
[edit] Thonburi Train Station

Also known as Bangkok Noi, this station is located on the "wrong" side of the river in Thonburi District and is the starting point for services to Kanchanaburi (via Nakhon Pathom), River Kwai Bridge and Nam Tok.

There are two daily 3rd class trains: [7]

* depart Thonburi 07:45, arrive Nom Tok 12:20, return 13:00, terminate Thonburi at 17:36
* depart Nam Tok 05:25, arrive Thonburi 10:05, return 13:50, terminate Nam Tok at 18:20

Note that the weekend-only 2nd class air-con Kanchanaburi/Nam Tok "tourist" trains depart from Hualamphong. [8]
[edit] By ship

Cruise ships visiting Bangkok arrive at Laem Chabang, about 90 minutes south-east of Bangkok and about 30 minutes north of Pattaya.

A taxi service desk is available on the wharf, but charges extortionate prices - a whopping 2600 baht to charter a taxi (4 passengers), or about 5000 baht to charter a minibus (usually 11 passenger seats), for a trip into Bangkok. Slightly lower prices can be found by walking out to the main road (about 4000 baht for a minibus), however even these rates are almost double the typical rate in the opposite direction. Better deals may be possible for round trips (even if returning the following day).

Frequent first and second class bus services directly connect Laem Chabang with Ekamai (Bangkok's Eastern Bus Terminal, on Sukhumvit); less frequent direct services run to Moh Chit (Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal). A first class air-con bus (blue and white) to either will usually take 90 minutes or less; the fare is around 100 baht. A good way to make the most of a quick visit is to board an Ekamai bus and then disembark early at the On Nut Skytrain Station on Sukhumvit Road in Bangkok (the bus will always pause here provided a passenger requests it); in the opposite direction, use the Ekamai Skytrain Station and board the bus at the terminus. To get to or return from the Chatuchak Weekend Market, use the Moh Chit bus instead.

Buses en route to Pattaya (southbound) can be boarded at the traffic lights on Sukhumvit Road in Laem Chabang, are extremely frequent (at least 10 per hour), and charge less than 50 baht.
[edit] Get around

Bangkok has the full spectrum of public transportation methods. Buses and taxis operate everywhere in the city. The Sky Train (BTS) and metro are available only in the city centre. And vans generally operate only in more out-lying areas.

Image:Bkkroutes.png
Metro BTS Sukhumvit BTS Silom
1 Hualamphong N8 Mo Chit
2 Sam Yan N7 Saphan Khwai
3 Si Lom N6
4 Lumphini N5 Ari
5 Khlong Toei N4 Sanam Pao
6 Queen Sirikit NCC N3 Victory Monument
7 Sukhumvit N2 Phaya Thai
8 Phetchaburi N1 Ratchathewi W1 National Stadium
9 Phra Ram 9 CEN Siam CEN Siam
10 Thai Cultural Center E1 Chit Lom S1 Ratchadamri
11 Huai Khwang E2 Phloen Chit S2 Sala Daeng
12 Sutthisan E3 Nana S3 Chong Nonsi
13 Ratchadaphisek E4 Asok S4
14 Lat Phrao E5 Phrom Phong S5 Surasak
15 Phahon Yothin E6 Thong Lo S6 Saphan Taksin
16 Chatuchak Park E7 Ekamai
17 Kamphaeng Phet E8 Phra Khanong
18 Bang Sue E9 On Nut
[edit] By train
[edit] Skytrain

The Bangkok Skytrain (BTS, pronunced bee-tee-et in Thai but also rót fai fáa or just skytrain) deserves a visit simply for the Disneyland space-ageness of it. Built in a desperate effort to ease Bangkok's insane traffic and pollution, the Skytrain covers most of downtown and is especially convenient for visiting the Siam Square area. There are two lines: the light green Sukhumvit line which travels along Sukhumvit road and then goes up Phayonyothin to northern Bangkok, where it terminates near the Chatuchak Weekend Market (N8), and the dark green Silom line, which travels from the Silom area, interchanges with the Sukhumvit line at Siam Square (C) and ends at National Stadium, right next to MBK. There isn't, unfortunately, a station near Banglampu District (aka the Khao San Road area), but the river ferry connects between Tha Banglampu and Tha Sathorn, which is under the Silom line terminus at Saphan Taksin (S6).

You must have 5 or 10 baht coins to purchase Skytrain tickets from the vending machines near the entrance, so hold on to them. Fares range from 10 to 45 baht depending upon how many zones you are travelling. Consult the map (in English) near each ticket machine. If you do not have coins, queue for change from the staff at the booth. If you are in town for several days, weigh your options and consider a rechargable stored-value card (from 100 baht, with a 30-baht refundable deposit), a "ride all you like" tourist pass (from 100 baht/day) or a multiple ride pass of 10 trips or more. They will certainly save you time, scrambling for coins, and maybe even money. Check for information with the English speaking staff.

Bangkok Metro finally opened in July 2004. The Blue Line connects the central Hualamphong railway station (1) to the northern Bang Sue station (18), with interchanges to the Skytrain at Silom/Sala Daeng (3/S2), Sukhumvit/Asok (7/E4) and Chatuchak/Mo Chit (15/N8). You can also transfer to north/northeast-bound SRT trains at the northern terminus Bang Sue.

Metro tickets are not interchangeable with Skytrain tickets. Rides cost from 12 to 36 baht depending on distance; pre-paid cards of up to 1000 baht are also available. For single ride fares, a round plastic token is used.

The subway stop for the Chatuchak Weekend Market is not Chatuchak Park, but one stop further at Kamphaeng Phet (16). The latter drops you right inside the market.
[edit] By boat
Chao Phraya Express Boat
Chao Phraya Express Boat

A ride on the Chao Phraya River should be high on any tourist's agenda. The cheapest and most popular option is the Chao Phraya Express Boat, basically an aquatic bus plying up and down the river. The basic service plies from Wat Rajsingkorn (S4) all the way to Nonthaburi (N30) is now 13 baht, with stops at most of Rattanakosin's major attractions including the Grand Palace, the Temple of Dawn, etc. Board at piers with a sign showing the route and pay the ticket collector who will approach you bearing a long metal cylinder. In addition to the basic service, there are express services flagged with yellow or orange flags, which stop only at major piers and should be avoided unless you're sure where you're going. The new signposting of the piers is quite clear, with numbered piers and English route maps, and the Central station offers easy interchange to the BTS Saphan Taksin station.

In addition to the workaday express boat, there is also a Tourist Boat which stops at a different subset of piers, offers commentary in English and charges twice the price. The boats are slightly more comfortable and not a bad option for a hop or two, but don't get bullied into buying the overpriced day pass.
Canal boats
Canal boats

Canal boats also serve some of Bangkok's many canals (khlong). They're cheap and immune to Bangkok's notorious traffic jams, but mostly used locals who use these water taxis to commute to work and school and shopping, so you get to see the 'backside' of the neighborhoods, so to speak. They're also comparatively safe -- just watch your step when boarding and disembarking and be wary of the water as it can be quite polluted, do not let it get in your eyes. Pay the fare (8-20 baht) to the crazy helmet-wearing ticket collectors who hang onto the outside of the boat, ducking at bridges, as it barrels down the canal. One particularly useful line runs up and down Khlong Saen Saep, parallel to Petchaburi Road, and provides the easiest access from the city center to the Golden Mount. There's a boarding pier across from the WTC under the bridge where Ratchadamri crosses the khlong near Petchburi, and piers now even have (tiny) signs in English.

Finally, for trips outside the set routes, you can hire a long-tail river taxi at any major pier. These are fairly expensive and will attempt to charge as much as 500 baht/hour, but with haggling may be suitable for small groups. To circumvent the mafia-like touts who attempt to get a (large) cut for every ride, agree for the price of the shortest possible ride (half an hour etc), then negotiate directly with the captain when on board.
[edit] By bus

Local buses, mostly operated by the Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (BMTA), are cheapest but also the most challenging way of getting around, as there is a bewildering plethora of routes, usually marked only in Thai. If you can speak Thai you can call 184 Bus Route Hotline. Bus stops usually list only the bus numbers that stop there and nothing more. They are also subject to Bangkok's notorious traffic, often terribly crowded, and many are not air-conditioned. The hierarchy of Bangkok's buses from cheapest to best can be ranked as follows:

* Small green bus, 7.50 baht flat fare. Cramped, no air-con, no fan, famously suicidal drivers, not advisable for more than short hops.
* Red bus, 7 baht flat fare. More spacious and fan-cooled (in theory). Unlike other buses, some of these run through the night (1.50 baht surcharge). These buses are BMTA run.
* White/blue bus, 8 baht flat fare. Exactly the same as the red buses, but cost one baht more. These buses are owned by private entities operated in conjunction with BMTA.
* Blue/Yellow and Cream/Blue air-con, 11 baht for the first 8 kilometers, up to 18 baht max. These buses are quite comfy. The blue/yellow striped buses are privately owned while the Blue/Cream buses are BMTA owned.
* Orange air-con (Euro II), 13 baht for the first few kilometers, up to 22 baht max. These are all BMTA-run, newer, and more comfortable.
* Purple Microbus, 20 baht flat fare. Skytrain feeder services used to use these, but the service has been terminated.

Buses stop only when needed, so wave them down (arm out, palm down) when you see one barreling your way. In all buses except the Microbus, pay the roaming collector after you board; on Microbuses, drop the money into a slot next to the driver as you board. In all buses, keep the ticket as there are occasional spot-checks, and press the signal buzzer (usually near the door) when you want to get off.

Two further pitfalls are that buses of the same number may run slightly different routes depending on the color, and there are also express services (mostly indicated by yellow signs) that skip some stops and may take the expressway (2 baht extra).

The best online resources for decrypting bus routes are the official BMTA homepage, which has up-to-date if slightly incomplete listings of bus routes in English but no maps, and the ThailandOnline bus route map (bus info only in Thai, the map itself is bilingual). As a printed reference, the Bus Routes & Map guide (50 baht) by Bangkok Guides is another option.

Recently they have changed the rules regarding luggage on local buses within Bangkok, with the exception of airport buses you cannot take large amounts of luggage (ie. backpacks or suitcases) on the local buses.

Useful bus lines include the following:

* Red Bus No. 2 can bring people from Sanam Luang (very close to Khao San Road) to Sukhumvit Road. It's a good way to get from the Khao San Road area to connections with the Skytrain or MRT.
* Air Con bus 511 takes people from Sukhumvit and the Democracy Monument to the Southern Bus Terminal. But the route back is different. You can get back to the Khao San Road area (namely, Sanam Luang stop), but not to Sukhumvit.

[edit] By taxi

Taxis are a quick and comfortable way to get around town, at least if the traffic is flowing your way. All taxis are now metered and air-conditioned: the hailing fee is 35 baht and most trips within Bangkok cost less than 100 baht. There are no surcharges (except from the airport), even at night. A red lit sign on the front window means that the taxi is available.

When the meter is switched on you will see a red '35' somewhere on the dashboard or between the driver and you. Be sure to check for this at the start of the ride, as many drivers will "forget" to start the meter in order to overcharge you at the end of your trip. Most will start the meter when asked politely to do so (poet meter na khrap); if the driver refuses to use the meter after a couple of attempts, simply exit the taxi. In some cases, late at night and especially near major tourist districts like Khao San or Patpong, you will need to walk a block away to catch a meter cab. The effort can save you as much at 150 baht. This is often also the case for taxis that park all day in front of your hotel. The only two reasons that they are there: 1) To take you places where they can get their commissions (Jewelry stores, massage parlors, etc) and 2) To overcharge you by not using the meter. Your best bet is to walk to the road and catch an unoccupied metered taxi in motion (easier than it sounds, as Bangkok traffic tends to crawl the majority of the time, and one car out of four is a taxi). Be sure to either know the correct pronunciation of your destination, or have it written in Thai; taxi drivers in Bangkok are notoriously bad at reading maps.

If you're pinching pennies or fussy about your means of transportation, you may wish to think twice before getting into one of the (very common) yellow-green taxis. They are owner-operated and of highly variable quality, and occasionally they have rigged meters. All other colors belong to large taxi companies, which usually enforce their standards better.

From the airport and on some routes in the city the driver will ask if he should use the Tollway. You should affirm this, it will save a lot of time. You have to pay the cost (20/40 baht) immediately. Watch how much the driver really pays, they may try to keep the change.

When getting out, try to have small bills (100 baht or less) or expect problems with change. Tips are unusual, but are certainly welcome.
[edit] By motorbike

When traffic slows to a crawl and there are no mass-transit alternatives for your destination, by far the fastest mode of transport is a motorbike taxi (or in Thai, "motosai lapjang"). No, those guys in the pink smocks aren't biker gangs; they're motosai cabbies. They typically wear colorful fluorescent yellow-orange vests and wait for passengers at street corners and near shopping malls. Prices are negotiable; negotiate before you ride.

WARNING: Motorcycle accidents are brutally common, and many (tourists and Thai alike) consider transportation of this sort to be inherently hazardous. Motorcycle taxis in Bangkok should generally be avoided except as a last resort.

For the unfaint-of-heart, a wild motosai ride can provide a fantastic rush. Imagine weaving through rows of stopped vehicles at 50km/h with mere centimetres to spare on each side, dodging pedestrians, other motorbikes, tuk-tuks, stray dogs and the occasional elephant while the driver blithely ignores all traffic laws and defies even some laws of physics. Now, do the same ride while facing backwards on the bike and balancing a large television on your lap — then you can qualify as a local.

The overwhelming majority of motorcycle taxis do not travel long distances, but simply shuttle up and down long sois (side-streets) not serviced by other transport for a fixed 5-20 baht fare. These are marginally less dangerous, especially if you happen to travel with the flow on a one-way street.

The law requires that both driver and passenger must wear a helmet. It is the driver's responsibility to provide you with one, so if you are stopped by police, any fine is also the driver's responsibility. This is worth bearing in mind when you hire a motorbike or moped. Make sure that if there are two of you, the hirer provides two helmets not one. When riding, keep a firm grasp on the seat handle and watch out for your knees.
[edit] By tuk-tuk
Tuk-tuks on the prowl
Tuk-tuks on the prowl

Finally, what would Bangkok be without the much-loathed and much-loved tuk-tuks? You'll know them when you hear them, and you'll hate them when you smell them — these three-wheeled contraptions blaze around Bangkok leaving a black cloud of smog in their wake. For anything more than a 5-10 minute jaunt or just the experience, they really are not worth the price — and, if you let them get away with it, the price will usually be 4 or 5 times what it should be anyway (which, for Thais, is around 30% less than the equivalent metered taxi fare). On the other hand, you can sometimes ride for free if you agree to visit touristy clothing or jewelry shops (which give the tuk-tuk driver gas coupons and commissions for bringing customers). The shops' salesmen are pushy, but you are free to leave after five to ten minutes of browsing. Visitors should beware though, sometimes one stop can turn in to three, and your tuk-tuk driver may not be interested in taking you where you need to go once he has his gas coupons. Also, with Bangkok's densly congested traffic it is sure to spend hours of your time.

In case you actually want to get somewhere, and you're an all-male party, be careful with the tuk-tuk drivers, they will usually just ignore your destination and start driving you to some bordello ("beautiful girls"). Insist continually and forcefully on going only to your destination.

There's also a less-heralded, less-colourful and less-touristy version of the tuk-tuk that usually serves the back sois in residential neighborhoods. They usually have four wheels instead of three and resemble a tiny truck / ute / lorry, and they run on petrol instead of LP. The maids and locals tend to use them to return home from market with loads of groceries, or for quick trips if they're available. Negotiate before you get in, but don't expect to go much beyond the edge of that particular neighborhood.
[edit] See

Peoplespotting

More than any other place in Thailand, Bangkok offers wonderful opportunities for just sitting and watching people go by. Here's a partial checklist:

* University student — Many of Thailand's universities continue to enforce a uniform, and what a uniform: for girls, it's a formfitting translucent white blouse, black miniskirt and straight black hair. The little shiny logo button on the blouse tells the cognoscenti which particular university she is attending. Boys wear a white dress shirt and black trousers, but ever the non-conformists, you'll never see one outside school without the shirt pulled out and a few too many buttons open.

* Office lady — Sharply clad in infinite variations of solid pastel shades, this human houseplant mans customer service desks and pours tea in offices across the capital.

* Bargirl — Mostly short and dark-skinned farm girls from the provinces, a bargirl can be spotted a mile away thanks to her pink hotpants and the kilo of gold around her neck. Often found in happy financial symbiosis with the sexpat.

* Sexpat — Fifty-plus, bald, beer belly, stained shirt, lovestruck expression and a hairy arm wrapped around a girl too young to be their daughter. They've found what they're looking for.

* Ladyboy (kathoey) — Either tall, large-handed, wears too much makeup, possesses an Adam's apple and has large breasts... or has accomplished the art of camouflage so well that you just filed her/him as an office lady or bargirl.

* Expat — A farang walking about purposefully in dress shirt and long trousers, seemingly oblivious to the fact that it's 35°C outside. For extra credit, try to distinguish between the scruffier English teacher type and the jet-setting expense package type. Or try classifying them by the old joke about the three types of expat — missionaries, mercenaries and misfits.

* Yuppie — Like every other big city, Bangkok boasts a coterie of young professional types who are hip, well-educated and relatively affluent. Similar to the Expat, they usually sport business attire and are likely to be hurried -- except they probably know a shortcut, and they aren't sweating so profusely.

* Khao San Road brigade — Braided hair, bead necklace, sarongs, shorts and floppy pants. Either on their way to or just back from the beaches. Dazed and bewildered when torn apart from the familiar surroundings of Khao San Road.

Most of Bangkok's sights are concentrated in the "Old City" on Rattanakosin Island. Out of Bangkok's many temples, the following usually make the top 3:

* Wat Arun (The Temple of Dawn)
* The Grand Palace, featuring Wat Phra Kaew (The Temple of the Emerald Buddha)
* Wat Pho, home of the world's largest reclining Buddha and a famed massage school

Bangkok's many markets are an experience in themselves, see Buy for some suggestions.
[edit] Itineraries

* One day in Bangkok — if you have just one day to spare and want to catch a feel for the city

* Bangkok to Ho Chi Minh City overland— a suggested one-week trip through the heart of former Indochina.

[edit] Do

Go cycling! It may sound crazy, but it certainly is not. Away from the main roads there is a fast system of small streets and alleys. Cyclists are treated as pedestrians, so you can use your bicycle to explore parks, temple complexes, markets and the more quiet residential areas of eastern Bangkok. In more crowded places you can cycle on the sidewalk. Exploring the town by bicycle has all the advantages of going by foot combined with a much greater action radius and a cooling breeze when cycling.

* For those who don't want to cycle alone dutch expat Co van Kessel organizes highly recommended all inclusive half day cycling tours for 950 bath. Co van Kessel Bangkok tours, ☎ Office: 02 - 322 9481 or: 02 - 752 6818 - 9 Mr. Co's mobile: 0 87 - 824 1931 Miss Nong's mobile: 0 87 - 054 9878 (covankessel@yahoo.com), [9]. 950 Bath.

Bangkok is an extremely popular place for all sorts of pampering. The options available range from massages and spa treatments to haircuts and manicures and even cosmetic surgery, all at prices far lower than in the West.

* All self-respecting hotels in Bangkok will have a spa operating on premises offering at least traditional massage services. These tend to charge a premium but also offer some the best treatments in town. Particularly well-regarded spas include Deverana [10] at the Dusit Thani and the eponymous operations at Banyan Tree [11] and the legendary Oriental [12] — the last of these being probably the most expensive in town, offering (among other things) a 6-hour Oriental Romance package for two costing a whopping US$535.

* Independent spas offer much the same experience but are a little more competitive due to the lack of a captive customer base. Figure on 1000 baht and up per hour for most treatments.

* The ubiquitous little massage shops found on every street corner in town offer the best value for money but the smallest range of services, with offerings usually limited to massage only. It is fairly easy to distinguish legitimate massage shops from more dubious places: the real deal will charge 250-400 baht for a typical two-hour massage and will often have a row of beefy farmers' daughters in white coats working on customers' feet in public view, while the other kind has wispy things in evening dresses and too much makeup yelling "hello handsome" at every passing male.

* Bangkok's hospitals offer generally high quality services at a fraction of the cost of a Western hospital. Probably the best-regarded (and most expensive) is Bumrungrad [13], which (for example) charges 60,000 baht for an all-inclusive breast implant package. Bangkok is also well known as a center for sexual reassignment surgery for people wishing to change their physical gender, although this falls out of the scope of a casual vacation

* A cruise down the Chao Praya River is a nice way to spend a day here in Bangkok. A tour called Five Temples, Five Era Chao Praya River Cruise [14] offer by Truly Yours Tour [15] will take you to explore the history of Thai temples around the river each last Sunday of the Month. The tour mainly visite 5 temples and explain the historical significant by a lecturer.

* Golf - see Golf in Thailand - Bangkok

[edit] Learn
[edit] Cooking

Thai cuisine is a favorite of many, and many cooking schools provide half-day classes that provide a nice break from the day-to-day sightseeing monotony.

* BaiPai Cooking School. Tel. 02-294-9029 info@baipai.com [16]. A nice casual cooking school with a nice modern design in the middle of a residential neighborhood. Their van will pick you up from your hotel or Bangkok location, because it's not easy to find. Instructors are fun and informative, and you get a souvenir printed photo and one is even emailed to you. Class run from 9:30am to about 1:30pm, closed Mondays.

* Blue Elephant. Tel. 02-673-9353 cooking.school@blueelephant.com [17]. Take classes from one of the most famous chains of Thai restaurants in the world. While the price is substantially higher than others in Bangkok, class takes place in the historic Blue Elephant restaurant, and while dining on your creations, wine, extra dishes and dessert are served. And they give you a Blue Elephant apron as well.

[edit] Buddhism

* The International Buddhist Meditation Centre. Wat Mahathat, 3 Maharat Road, Phraborommaharatchawang, tel. 2623-6325, [18]. Meditation classes in English are held at 7-10AM, 1-4PM and 6-8PM everyday in section 5 of the temple. Attendance is free of charge, but donations are welcome. Getting there: Take the river taxi to Chang Pier (between Silpakorn University and the Thammasat University). From there the center is a short walk.

* The World Fellowship of Buddhists. 2nd Floor, No.616 Benjasiri Park, Soi Medhinivet (off Soi Sukhumvit 24), tel:2661-1284(-90), [19]. Offers meditation classes in English from 2 to 5:30PM on the first Sunday of every month. The office also provides information on places to learn and practice meditation in Thailand. Classes and information are free.

[edit] Thai massage

* Union of Thai Traditional Medicine Society offers a more than reasonable alternative to the courses in Wat Po, as they pay more attention to the individual student and practices, conveniently located close to the China Town Pier (No. 5). Contact: Mr. Praphai Kingmala (66) - 087-929-8574, 272 - 274 Rachawong Rd., Sampantawong.

[edit] Eat

Bangkok not only has plenty of Thai restaurants, but a wide-selection of world-class international cuisine too. Prices are generally high by Thai standards, but cheap by international standards; a good meal is unlikely to cost more than 300 baht, although there are a few restaurants (primarily in hotels) where you can easily spend 10 times this.

* Phad Thai and curry shops everywhere
* Tom Yum Goong, don't miss to try one of the most famous soup
* Street vendors selling satay with hot sauce (for 5-10 baht a piece)
* Bugs - yes, insects. They are deep fried, nutritious and quite tasty with the soy sauce that is sprayed on them. Types available: scorpions, water beetles, grasshoppers, crickets, bamboo larvae, mealworms, and some more seasonal specialties. Note: break off the legs from grasshoppers and crickets or they will get stuck in your throat.
* Chinatown has a range of street stalls and cheap restaurants selling food (try 1kg of huge barbecued prawns or tom yam with prawns for 300 baht) to the discerning local population
* All the Thai restaurant chains covered in the main Thailand article
* Restaurants featuring cuisine from all over the world on Sukhumvit Road and Khao San Road

[edit] Drink
The Dome, Silom
The Dome, Silom

Bangkok's nightlife is notorious, although recent social order campaigns have put a bit of a clamp on things: in particularly, nearly all restaurants, bars and clubs are now forced to close before 1 AM, a few are allowed to stay open till 2 AM. (Informal sidewalk bars do stay open all night, particularly in lower Sukhumvit.) You must carry your passport for ID checks and police occasionally raid bars, subjecting all customers to drug tests.

One of Bangkok's main party districts is Silom, home not only to perhaps the world's most famous go-go bar strip Patpong, but plenty of more legitimate establishments catering to all tastes. For a drink with a view, the open-air rooftop bar/restaurants of Vertigo and Sirocco are particularly impressive. Similar bars to the ones at Patpong can be found in the lower Sukhumvit area, at Nana Entertainment Plaza (soi 4) and Soi Cowboy (soi 23), while a large number of more trendy and more expensive bars and nightclubs can be found in the higher sois as well, eg. Thong Lor (soi 55), Bed superclub, Q Bar, or Met bar. Hippie hangout Khao San Road is also slowly gentrifying and there are even some Thais venturing into what were once mere backpacker bars, but most Thais still prefer to congregate around Ratchadaphisek.
[edit] Go-go and beer bars

Behaving while misbehavin'

Some simple rules of etiquette to follow in a go-go bar:

* A drink in your hand is required at all times. Most places charge around 100 baht for most drinks.
* Lady drinks cost a little more and earn you the privilege of chatting with the lady of your choice for a while.
* Taking a dancer out of her place of employment before closing time will cost you a bar fine of around 500 baht. This is the bar's share, the rest is up to you two.
* No photos inside. If you're lucky, you'll merely have your camera confiscated, but you also stand a fair chance of getting beaten up for your trouble.
* Look, but don't touch (unless invited to). Getting too frisky will get you kicked out.
* Bring along your passport. Police raids are not uncommon and you're off to the brig for the night if you can't produce one on demand.

The go-go bar is an institution of Bangkok's "naughty nightlife". In a typical go-go, several dozen dancers in bikinis (or less) crowd the stage, shuffling back and forth to loud music and trying to catch the eye of punters in the audience. Some (but not all) also put on shows where girls perform on stage, but these are generally tamer than you'd expect — nudity, for example, is technically forbidden. In a beer bar, there are no stages and the girls are wearing street clothes.

If this sounds like a thinly veiled veneer for prostitution, it is. Though some point to the large number of American GIs during the Vietnam War as the point of origin of the Thai sex trade, others have claimed that Thai lax attitudes towards sexuality have deeper roots in Thai history. Both Go-go and Beer Bars are squarely aimed at the farang and it's fairly safe to assume that all Thais in them are on the take. That said, it's perfectly OK to check out these shows without actually partaking, and there are more and more curious couples and even the occasional tour group attending. The main areas are around Patpong, Nana Entertainment Plaza and Soi Cowboy.

See also the Stay safe|Prostitution section.
[edit] Gay nightlife

Thais are generally accepting of homosexuality and Bangkok has a very active gay nightlife scene, concentrated in Silom Sois 2 & 4 and a short strip of gay go-gos bars off nearby Th Surawong. Most of these bars, however, are aimed at gay men and the lesbian scene is much more low-key. However, there are two full-time lesbian bars (Zeta and Shela) and one Saturday-night only (Lesla) lesbian bar in Bangkok. The most popular gay bars are Balcony and Telephone bar at Silom soi 4 and for the disco club is DJ Station which located at Silom soi 2 (crowded everynight from 11 p.m.). Bring along your passport for entrance age checking (they do not allow people under 20 years old). Closing time is 2-3 a.m.

In a league of their own are Bangkok's numerous transsexuals (kathoey), both pre- and post-operative, popularly known as ladyboys. Some work in the famed transvestite cabarets and there are some dedicated kathoey bars as well, but most do their best to blend in and many have the art of deception down pat. Telltale signs to look out for include tall height, large hands and an Adam's apple.

Note that some Thai regulars in the gay nightlife scene skirt the fine line between partying and prostitution, and the Western visitor, being considered richer, is expected to pay any food and drink expenses and perhaps provide some "taxi money" in the morning. It's usually wise to ask a boy you pick up in a bar or club if he is after money, as it's not uncommon for them to start demanding money after sex.
[edit] Buy
Racks of clothing at Siam Square
Racks of clothing at Siam Square

Bangkok is full of shopping malls and street markets of all types, especially in the Sukhumvit area; see the section for details. Prices can be cheap by Western standards, especially for locally produced items such as clothes, although bargaining is expected and required. Dump a teenager in MBK or Emporium with a few thousand baht and they'll stay occupied for the rest of the week! Most malls tend to have excellent food courts.

Weekend Market: A major attraction on weekends is the gigantic Chatuchak Weekend Market (also a.k.a. JJ Market), in northern Bangkok but easily accessible by Skytrain and Metro. Takes around an hour on the bus from Khao San Road area and has 20,000 stalls selling everything from counterfeit goods, animals, art, furniture and probably anything else you can think of. Definitely worth a visit for the sheer size of it.

Night Market: Hugely popular with tourists & locals alike is the open air Suan Lum Night Bazaar. This is a large and colourful market offering bargains on everything from clothes, bags, crockery to organic foods. There is a large food court with a live band every night. Covered in more detail in the Silom section. Note that as of March of 2007 there is a current worry that the Night Bazaar may be evicted from its premises and replaced by real estate development. The current management of the thriving bazaar, as well as the vendors in its stalls, are resisting eviction, but the owners of the land -- namely the property management company owned by Thailand's king -- is planning the eviction, which may happen as soon as April 2007.

Computer Mall: Pantip Plaza is a multi level computer mall selling everything from branded laptops to cheap VOIP phones and pirated DVDs. A must for any computer & electronics buff.

See also: Electronics and entertainment shopping in Thailand

Bangkok's pharmacies (drugstores) tend to offer a very wide range of (wholly legal and legitimate) medicines and herbal remedies at a fraction of Western prices, including many drugs that would require a doctor's prescription in other countries. Thai pharmacists tend to be exceptionally helpful, and most speak excellent English. There are small, independent pharmacists on almost every corner, and you'll find bigger (and more expensive) chains on the major streets and in shopping centers. Boots is probably the most ubiquitous chain; they're also a reliable source for traveler's toiletries.

Books: B2S on the the 3rd floor of the Central World Plaza is Bangkok's largest bookstore, holding around 30,000 titles (many in English) and large selection of magazines. Japanese chain Kinokuniya also has a large outlet in Siam Paragon (Level 3 South), with a good selection of guidebooks and comics in English.

Clothing: Bangkok is well-known for it's plethora of tailors and high-quality fabric available locally. As a rule of thumb, avoid ANY tailor that you're taken to since many are frequent bribers of tuktuk drivers and others. Generally Sukhumvit-area tailors are western-oriented.
[edit] Sleep

Bangkok has a vast range of accommodation, including some of the best hotels in the world — and some of the worst dives too. Broadly speaking, Khao San Road is backpacker city; the riverside by Rattanakosin is home to The Oriental and The Peninsula, often ranked among the best in the world (and priced to match); and Sukhumvit Road has hotels for all budgets.

When choosing your digs, pay careful attention to Skytrain and Metro access; a well-placed station will make your stay in Bangkok much more comfortable.
[edit] Stay safe

Given its size and poverty level Bangkok is surprisingly safe, with violent crimes like mugging and robbery unusual. However, Bangkok does have more than its fair share of touting and scams, and quite a few individuals in the tourist business think nothing of overcharging visitors.

Make a photocopy of your passport and the page with your visa stamp. Always keep your passport or the photocopy with you (the law requires that you carry your actual passport at all times, however in practice a photocopy will usually suffice). Many night clubs insist on a passport (and ONLY a passport) as proof of age. It is not required that you leave your passport with a hotel when you check in.

Carrying your own padlock is a good idea, as budget rooms sometimes use them instead of (or as well as) normal door locks; carry a spare key someplace safe, like your money belt, otherwise considerable expense as well as inconvenience may result should you lose the original. Also consider some type of cable to lock your bag to something too big to fit through the door or window.
[edit] Scams

Some common scams and guidelines for avoiding them:

* Beware of all offers of gems and (supposedly) precious stones. These sophisticated and highly professional "special discount" scams, often involving promises of high resale value back home at a supposedly huge profit, sometimes even employ foreigners to act as satisfied customers.

* Beware of tuk-tuk drivers offering all-day tours for prices as low as 10 baht. You may indeed be taken on a full-day tour, but you will only end up visiting one gem and souvenir shop after another. The driver gets a commission if you buy something and gas coupons even if you don't.

* Insist on the meter for taxis, and agree on a price in advance for tuk-tuks. If they refuse, or quote silly prices, just walk out and get a different one, they're rarely in short supply.

* Be highly skeptical of anyone telling you that your intended destination is currently closed (including skytrain and subway stations), or offering discount admissions. Temples are almost always free (the main exceptions are Wat Phra Kaew and Wat Pho) and open just about every day of the year. Anyone telling you otherwise is most likely out to scam you.

* There is no such thing as a Lucky Buddah or Lucky Buddah day!

* At popular tourist sites, if an English-speaking Thai approaches you out of the blue and strikes up a conversation, be wary: they are almost certainly selling something. If they ask you if it's your first time in Thailand, it's probably best to answer 'no' and walk away.

* In the go-go bar zones, beware of touts who try to drag you into the upstairs bars with offers of ping-pong shows and 100-baht beer. The beer may well be 100 baht, but the "show" you'll be treated to will be 1000 baht or more. Rule of thumb is, if you can't see inside from street level, the establishment is best avoided.

* Beware of private bus companies offering direct trips from Bangkok to other cities with VIP buses. There are a lot of scams performed by some private bus companies. The so-called direct VIP trips may end up changing three or four uncomfortable minibuses to the destination, the 10-11 hours trip may be 17-18 hours. Try to book public BKS buses from the main bus terminals.

[edit] Prostitution

The age of consent is 15 but a higher minimum age of 18 applies in the case of prostitutes. Penalties for sex with minors are harsh.

All adult Thais must carry an identity card, which will state that they were born in 2531 or earlier if they were over the age of 18 on January 1st 2007 (in the Thai calendar, CE 2007 is the year 2550). Many hotels retain the ID cards of prostitutes for the duration of their visit.

Whilst most prostitutes are employed by bars or similar businesses, some are "freelancers". Petty theft and other problems are more common with "freelancers".

HIV/AIDS awareness is better than it used to be but infection statistics among entertainment industry workers remain high; "freelancers" are the highest risk group. Almost all girls insist on using condoms.

Technically, some aspects of prostitution are illegal (eg soliciting, pimping), however enforcement is liberal and brothels are commonplace. It's not illegal to pay for sex or to pay a "barfine" (a fee the bar collects if you want to take an employee away).

The novel "The Butterfly Trap" gives a realistic first-person account of Bangkok's nightlife industry.
[edit] Get out

If you want to get out of the city for a while, there are plenty of day trip options from Bangkok.

* The ancient capital of Ayutthaya and its many ruins are just 1.5 hours away by bus or train.

* The magnificent royal palace at Bang Pa-In makes for a pleasant day trip.

* The Burma Death Railway and some good national parks can be found in Kanchanaburi Province to the west.

* The island of Ko Kret, upriver from Bangkok in Nonthaburi Province, makes a pleasant day trip out of the concrete jungle.

* The island of Ko Samet is one of the closer Thai beach islands; direct bus (from Ekamai) + ferry (from Ban Phe) takes about 4 hours.

* Well off the tourist trail, the surreal UFO-shaped temple of Wat Phra Dhammakaya is in Rangsit, an hour north of Bangkok.

* The naughty nightlife of Pattaya is 2 to 2.5 hours away by bus, an hour or so more by train. ]]> Sat, 01 Jul 2006 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=694 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=5060 0 13.75 100.5166667 city map of Siem Reap
[edit] Understand

Siem Reap, literally "Siam Defeated", commemorates a Khmer victory over the neighboring kingdom of Thailand. These days, however, the only rampaging hordes are the tourists heading to Angkor and this once quaint village has become the largest boomtown and construction site in Cambodia. It's quite laid-back and all in all a pleasant place to stay while touring the temples. It's a nice compromise between observing Cambodian life and enjoying the amenities of modern services and entertainment, thanks to the large expatriate community in Siem Reap. As business has increased, so have the numbers of people wanting your custom. Expect to receive almost constant offers for motodop and tuk-tuk rides, along with everything else which drivers may be able to offer to you.

Be sure to pick up your free Siem Reap Angkor Visitors Guide from your hotel/guesthouse. It contains lots of info on Siem Reap and Angkor, including hotel/bar/restaurant/shop info, travel info, maps, etc.
[edit] Get in
[edit] By plane

Siem Reap - Angkor International Airport (IATA: REP | ICAO: VDSR) [1] has frequent flights from Phnom Penh and several flights weekly to Sihanoukville. Internationally, there are direct flights to/from Laos (Pakse | Vientiane | Luang Prabang), Malaysia (Kuala Lumpur), Singapore, Taiwan (Kaohsiung | Taipei), Thailand (Bangkok | U-Tapao/Pattaya) and Vietnam (Danang | Ho Chi Minh City). Low-cost carriers Air Asia and Jetstar Asia now fly to Siem Reap from Kuala Lumpur and Singapore respectively, but the popular route to Bangkok is still monopolized by Bangkok Airways, which charges accordingly.

Visa on Arrival costs US$25 (children US$10), US$2 more if you've forgotten to bring a colour photo. The airport is less than 15 minutes from the town centre by car (US$5) or motodop (US$4 or less).

There are separate terminals for international and domestic flights. International departure tax is a steep US$25 (children US$13), payable after check-in and before clearing immigration. Often this can only be paid in cash, as the credit card facility is unreliable. Airport fee upon departure on national flights, to Phnom Penh, is US$6.
[edit] By land

Cambodian highways have improved considerably in the last few years (although there's still plenty of room for further improvement) and some routes that were once epic adventures are now sealed roads. For most routes you have the basic options of chartering or sharing a Toyota Camry taxi, sharing a ride in a pickup truck, or if it's a sealed road, taking the bus.
[edit] From Bangkok
Street between Siem Reap and the border town Poipet (March 2006)
Street between Siem Reap and the border town Poipet (March 2006)

The most popular and direct overland route from Bangkok is via the Aranyaprathet/Poipet border crossing.

From Bangkok to Aranyaprathet, either take a 1st class public bus from Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal (frequent departures, 160-207 baht) or else travel by train from Bangkok's Hualamphong Train Station (two trains each way daily, all 3rd class, 48 baht).

From Aranyaprathet bus or train station, continue by tuk-tuk (50-60 baht) to the border market, and cross the border to Poipet on foot.

The road from Poipet to Siem Reap is not sealed, hence the condition varies seasonally and much depends on when it was last re-graded - for recent reports see Latest Road Conditions between Siem Reap and Poipet.

Whichever route you take, beware of scams, touts and pickpockets at the Poipet border crossing. See the Poipet article for information on the irritating Visa on Arrival process. Once you're through all of that, take the free shuttle bus from outside the entry stamp office in Poipet to the transpotation depot about 1 km away. Tourist travel in Poipet is currently run by an unofficial monopoly, unfortunately, and you're not allowed to bargain directly with drivers.

The fastest and most comfortable way to get from Poipet to Siem Reap is by Toyota Camry share taxi - US$60 for the whole car ($35 for the driver, $10 for the government, $15 for the monopoly) - in which case the entire trip from Poipet to Siem Reap could take less than 3.5 hours on an good day. The car can be shared by up to four people.

If US$60 is too much, you can take the official bus for US$10/person. The bus leaves when full - and only then, even if it takes a few hours - and can take about 15 people, with all the bags on the back seat. Extra people will be squeezed onto the back seat if necessary, which might not be so comfortable. Two fold down seats in the centre aisle are also not so comfortable. The trip is advertised as taking 3-5 hours, but in reality it takes at least 6 hours when the road is not too bad. An enforced stop after 2 hours at a restaurant can add to the time of the trip, depending on how long the driver wants to stay. There is the possibility of additional delays (e.g. "mechanical faults") and these are almost certainly due to the same reasons as the Khao San scam-bus: getting you to Siem Reap late, tired and ready to take whatever guesthouse you're delivered to.

If even this is too much, you can try to hop on the back of a pick-up truck for a fraction of the price, but these are now hard to arrange from Poipet, due to the travel monopoly operating there. Also, the ride is a lot more uncomfortable, takes longer and may require a change of vehicle at Sisophon.

Alternatively, you could join the backpacking masses and pay a couple hundred baht for an uncomfortable bus ride directly from Khao San Road all the way to Siem Reap; any travel agent in Bangkok will be happy to sell you a ticket. Buses leave Khao San Road around 8am and arrive in Siem Reap between 5pm and 3am. How long it takes exactly does not really depend on road conditions, but on the mood of the driver. Because he can "sell" you to a guesthouse in Siem Reap he will try to arrive there as late as possible, because if you are tired and afraid of walking around in Siem Reap late at night, his chances increase that you will stay at the guesthouse of his choice. (There is no obligation to stay, regardless of what the guesthouse owners tell you.) Even if you start in Bangkok on a big aircon bus, you will almost certainly find yourself in the back of a pickup or stuffed minibus for the Cambodian part of the journey. For the return trip, expect to pay around US$11.

If you arrive in Poipet the Khao San Road buses, you'll be swarmed by offers of extra help and assurances that you're better off paying 1000 baht (US$30) or even more for the visa - which should cost US$20. Stand your ground - the bus won't leave without you, because the driver wants the guesthouse commission you represent.
[edit] From Phnom Penh
Roadside Petrol Cambodia-style
Roadside Petrol Cambodia-style

There are several bus companies that you can take to get from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap. The most popular bus companies with tourists include Capitol Transport, GST, and Mekong Express. Each bus company leaves from a different location, although there are many located around the Central Market. Nearly all of the bus companies have buses leaving at 7:30am and 12:30pm, and the trip costs US$3-6. Expect to get to Siem Reap in 5-7 hours. In contrast to the Siem Reap-Poipet road, the entire road is paved, making for a much more comfortable ride. If you're driving yourself, watch out for the make-shift patrol pertol stations next to the road, selling petrol in olg 2 litre Coke bottles. Much cheaper than the real thing, but who knows what the quality is...
[edit] By boat

Fast, Soviet style Hydrofoils also make the journey from Phnom Penh across the Tonle Sap lake. Asking price for a "foreigner" ticket is typically US$20-25, US$15 is a good price to pay. There are also services between Siem Reap and Battambang (asking price US$15, pay US$10).

These can be fantastic trips which give travellers the opportunity to view life on the lake, floating houses, fishermen going about their work, and to get a sun tan if you choose to sit on the roof of the boat. However if you travel on a windy day and you have not kept waterproofs and sunscreen out of your luggage you could be in trouble. These journeys take anywhere from five to eight hours and without waterproofs and sunscreen you will become incredibly cold and will be burned by the sun at the same time. As the boat is generally packed with travellers, those on the roof will have to stay up there, and once your bags are in the hold, they stay there.

If you are planning a week long trip in Siem Reap, the boat journey is fine, but if you are only planning two to three days, I would advise taking the bus. If you are specifically taking the boat to see the floating village, don't. The floating village is at the very end of the boat journey. You could ride the bus from Phnom Penh, get a guest house, take a tuk-tuk to the port, tour the floating village, and be back in Siem Reap before your friends arrive from Phnom Penh by boat.

A word of caution: If you find yourself taking the boat/bus and person asks for your name to have his friend pick you up, he is in actuality selling your name to a tuk-tuk driver in Siem Reap. This is a fairly convenient way to get from the port to Siem Reap, just be prepared for an extremely hard sell to one of his select guest houses, restaurants, etc. If you just "roll with it" he will take you to a guest house and you will quoted US$10 for a normally priced US$6-8 room. Since the tuk-tuk driver has now pinned you for a "sucker", he will try to sell you on his services to the temples for about US$20-25 a day. Be firm, and negotiate, they will bend towards the market rate. You'll never really be ripped off, but keep in mind that if you are staying for longer than four days, that tuk-tuk surplus would be much better served through a charitable donation.
Along the Siem Reap River
Along the Siem Reap River
[edit] Get around

* Most of the sights in Siem Reap can be seen on foot. For the foot-sore and sun-weary, you'll have plenty of offers from locals on motorbikes. Only the longest rides should be more than US$1 though prices go up at night. Simply agree a price and hop on the back.
* Another excellent way to see Siem Reap is by bicycle. Most guesthouses provide them free for "round town" use, or US$1 (single speed) - US$2 (with gears) per day. It's also a good way to see Angkor Wat on your own, but leave early to avoid the mid-day heat.
* Guesthouses can usually arrange a driver and car for you; this works out at about US$20-25 per day and is a good way to visit the temples if time is short. Ask for Mith Bundy (Tel: 012 942 561) for a very friendly driver with basic (but workable) English skills.
* Alternatively, you can rent a motorbike with driver for a full day for US$8-10 or so. The driver should be able to provide you with a helmet if you'd like one. Wear a handkerchief across the mouth / nose as the roads can be very dusty!

Note: The rental of motorbikes to tourists (expatriates, however, are allowed) in Siem Reap is prohibited. However, foreigners can ride motorbikes they've rented elsewhere (eg Phnom Penh).

* Tuk tuk drivers can be hired for US$10-15/day to take you wherever you like, they will arrange meeting places with you or wait where you tell them to. They are a great way of see the surrounds without the barrier of a car window! A word of advice, pay them for their services after everything you have arranged is completed. For example, if you arrange for a later trip to the airport and pay them, chances are that you will have to find another ride.
* An additional and very convenient way to get around the area, and also get to and from the airport, is to use an 'official taxi', which are available at the airport for the fee of US$7 to the city and payable to the counter at the airport. Whilst in the taxi you will be offered the services of the car and the driver for US$25/day, which is very good value if you want to visit several temples in one day. They also have the added luxury of air conditioning, which you will be craving after walking around temples for a couple of hours The US$25/day is payable directly to the driver, who will speak English, have had training, will have a proper driving license and also have knowledge of the temples and surrounding area. The Tourist Transport Association [2] also have an office just behind the tourist information office in Siem Reap, which you can contact if you have any questions or queries. All other services and prices are listed on the back of the receipt you receive when you pay the US$5 at the airport for the trip into town.

[edit] See

The reason most people come to Siem Reap is the Angkor Archaeological Park, and is thoroughly covered on its own page.
Piles of mines, Landmine Museum
Piles of mines, Landmine Museum

* Landmine Museum, [3]. Located a bumpy 15-min ride from the main road to Angkor (any motodop or tuk-tuk driver will know), this jungle shack was set up by local deminer Aki Ra to educate locals and tourists about the dangers of land mines. Piles of defused mines and UXO lie around the site and the guides are mostly teenagers who were orphaned or injured by mines, all now living nearby. A very worthwhile trip that brings home the scale of the problem and shows you a slice of "real" Cambodia. Free entry, but donations very welcome — everything will be used for mine clearance.

* A short distance outside of the city center, there is a small bone stupa to mark the Khmer Rouge killing fields that were near Siem Reap. There is no cost to enter, but donations are requested, as the temple that hosts the memorial is under expansion.

* An alternative trip when you are feeling 'templed out' is to visit the Tonle Sap lake a few miles from town and take a boat trip past the floating villages. The fast hydrofoil to Phnom Penh also passes this way.

Kampong Phluck
Kampong Phluck

* The silk worm farm is worth the hike. Again, ask any tuk-tuk driver.

* Kampong Phluck, off the Highway to Phnom Penh, is only reachable by motorbike and then boat, and is a much more authentic 'floating village experience' than the one close to the Tonlé Sap-ferry harbour. Enquire at your local hotel for a day trip to this fascinating village on stilts. This day trip should cost around US$30 and it takes about 2 hours to reach the village, depending on the road conditions and water level.

[edit] Do

* Hidden Cambodia Dirt Bike Tours, Tel. + 855 (0)12 934 412 or (0)12 655 201, [4]. HCDBT offers once-in-a-lifetime opportunities to explore the countryside of Cambodia in a safe yet exciting way, by motorbike or 4-WD.

* Apsara Theatre, tel. +855-63-963-363. [5]. The only air-conditioned theater in town presents various traditional popular and classical dances and serves a set of local specialties. Booking recommanded !

* Another - albeit weird - solution to temple fatigue is offered at the army shooting range near Banteay Srei and Kbeal Span. An alarming amount of armament and explosives are available, and the only limit appears to be the cash you're willing to spend. Even a short round is pretty expensive (US$30 minimum), but listening to the soldiers-turned-used car salesmen put the hard sell on a new machine gun is almost worth the trip.

[edit] Buy

As usual in Cambodia, dollars and even Thai baht are preferred over riel for all purchases except the very smallest. There are a number of large, flashy souvenir shops around town, complete with temple-style decorations and a surplus of staff, which happily charge 2-5x the going price elsewhere in town and are best avoided.

Despite what you may be told at the Thai border, international ATMs in Siem Reap are plentiful, and banks can do cash advances from credit cards.

* Angkor Market, Sivatha Blvd. Siem Reap's closest thing to a supermarket, offering a good range of food, snacks, alcohol and even some souvenirs. Clearly marked, non-negotiable but reasonable prices.

* Psar Chas (Old Market), to the south of town. Sells a reasonably attractive collection of artifacts and tourist junk. Please don't buy anything purporting to be antique; it probably isn't, but it's stolen if it is.

* Central Market, at the corner of Sivatha Blvd and Achamean Street. Offers an eclectic collection of clothes and trinkets for good prices. Don't forget to bargain down the price. Most stalls carry the same selection so you can shop around and find the cheapest price. Many of the goods here cannot be found in Thailand.

[edit] Eat
Red Piano restaurant, Pub Street
Red Piano restaurant, Pub Street

There are many hundreds of restaurants in Siem Reap, and you will have no trouble finding something which suits your tastes and your budget. If you don't want to go out, most guesthouses have a basic restaurant attached, and can quickly whip up a decent fried rice.

For something a bit more special, head into town. There are whole streets catering for the travellers tastes, with pizzas, hamburgers, or tasty westernised offerings such as Amok and 'Khmer curry'. Many of the most authentic Karaoke-style restaurants are hidden in the backstreets, though your moto or tuk-tuk driver will no doubt know where to take you. He will be happy to wait (or join you) if you are really out in the boonies.
[edit] Budget

The street directly west of Pub Street is lined with lots of stalls offering simple yet filling meals for about a dollar apiece. The food is clean.

* Chiang Mai and Chivat Thai 2 on Wat Bo Rd offer basic Thai fare. Lunch sets start at US$1.50, dinner costs a bit more.

* The Markets - If you get tired of paying US$3 and up for just an ordnary lunch/dinner you may try one of the markets. You can get a whole meal for US$1 and below there.

* Angkor Famous on the small alley parallel to pub street offers tasty Thai and Cambodian fare at reasonable prices. Two-for-one beer specials and friendly staff.

[edit] Mid-range

Pub Street is best known as a watering hole, but it has also many nice restaurants that won't break the bank. Nearby you'll also find a whole range of pizzerias, including the original Happy Herbs Pizza, which depending on how the police are feeling that day either may or may not sell you cannabis-laced "happy" pizza. Don't try the "extra happy" unless you know what you're doing, and note that they will not sell you any herb without the pizza.

* Blue Pumpkin, Pub Street. Upscale, clean, air conditioned, wifi connection, need I say more.

* Khmer Family (formerly The Temple). Tasty and cheap local grub, although it's rather toned down for the foreign palate and often tastes like Thai food without the chillis. Pleasant, breezy second-floor balcony. Mains US$2-4.

* Khmer Kitchen, located in the alley behind bar street. Good value and very popular.

* Kama Sutra, Pub Street (opposite D's book shop). Authentic, yet slightly upmarket Indian food. Expect to pay around US$4-5 for a main course.

* Maharajah Next to CAB Bank, Old Market area, Tel: 092-506622 maharajahcuisine@yahoo.com [6] Royal Indian Cuisine - excellent new Indian restaurant just in the Old Market area just one street over from Pub Street. Very nicely prepared, very reasonably priced, 100% Halal Royal Indian dishes - uniquely spiced north Indian dishes with an emphasis on meat (chicken, beef, mutton, fish) dishes. There's also plenty of veg dishes to choose from. The Indian breads are excellent. 10:00-23:00

* Red Piano, Pub St. It has a well-known "Tomb Raider" cocktail and a good selection of Khmer as well as international dishes for US$3-5.

* Viva, Pub St. Siem Reap's first and only Mexican restaurant, with a menu containing just about everything you'd expect in your local TexMex restaurant. Good food, reasonable prices.

There are a few good options elsewhere in town. The numerous Karaoke restaurants offer a real authentic experience of modern Khmer dining. Try to sit far from the speakers, and prepare for mozzies. There is often no english menu, but one of the staff will no doubt be happy to help you order. Try phnom pleurng, a delicious cook-it-yourself beef barbecue. Another sensational dish, which is only available at these types of restaurants, is the trei bung gancheyt - a whole fish bubbling in a tasty peanuty sauce with green veggies.

* Café Moi Moi, Angkor Rd (to the left, after Meridien, before ticket booth). An unpretentious alfresco restaurant with a delightful little garden, serving up Khmer dishes, some traditional, some with a Japanese twist. Their version of amok, the classic dish of fish stewed in coconut milk, is cheap and tasty (US$3.50), while more adventurous diners can opt for minced pork mixed with the pungent Cambodian fish sauce prahok (US$3) and served with sliced raw onion to ease the pain. Nibble some pickles and sweet peanuts, try their famous pumpkin pudding for dessert and wash it all down with a large beer.

* Samapheap is a large and popular restaurant pleasantly located on the eastern riverbank a short hop down from Route 6, catering to both Khmers and tour groups. The menu is extensive, service is quick, prices are reasonable (most mains US$2-5) and the food is good.

[edit] Splurge

* Abacus. Beautiful garden setting and a temple-stone bar. Renauld, the Maitre 'd, adds flair and style, and the excellent menu is a real treat. At around US$10 for a main, you might not be eating here every night, but it is well worth splashing out at least once.

* L'Angelo, Le Meridien. Probably Siem Reap's most daring restaurant, serving fusionesque Italian cuisine like foie gras on a bed of white asparagus and balsamic vinegar ice cream in a setting so achingly modern that the only decoration is a cloud of black dots on the white wall. There's a price to pay though: a full meal with a glass or two of wine on the side can easily set you back around US$100 for two.

* Meric, Hotel de la Paix. Acclaimed by some as the best Khmer restaurant in all Cambodia, it is set in a chic hotel with a minimalist modern feel. You are liable to forget where you are. The chefs here painstakingly source out the freshest (and strangest) ingredients to build their multi-course seasonal menu (US$28). A typical set will have you dining on dried snake salad and grilled frog, but rest assured, it all actually tastes good. Arrive before 9.15 for the four course prix-fixe Khmer meal with wine selection. Sit in airconditioned comfort, or outside tables and lounge furniture. The hotel also has a modern bar with local art displayed.

[edit] Drink

Most of Siem Reap's watering holes are concentrated in a few lanes north of Psar Chas (the old market), mainly on a street known appropiately as "Bar Street" or "Pub Street". Drinks usually US$2 and up, although most if not all bars have happy hours before 8 PM and draft Angkor often goes for as little as US$.50.
The Art House
The Art House

* Angkor What?, Pub St. The pub that started it all, still going strong after ten years and covered in years of scribbled notes from travellers to prove it.

* Temple Club, Pub St. A popular western-orienated (But Khmer owned) nightclub featuring Angkorian decor, three free pool tables, and a rocking dance floor, it's not uncommon for this place to be open until sunrise. Inexpensive drinks

* FCC Angkor, (west river bank next to post office), [7]. Opened in October 2002, this is far and away Siem Reap's hippest place for a bite and a drink. A branch of the legendary Phnom Penh Foreign Correspondents' Club, the FCC offers food (~US$5) and drink (~US$3) in a marvelous blend of modern style and colonial architecture... if at a fairly steep price, at least by Cambodian standards.

* Le Tigre du Papier, Pub St. Free movies most evenings, a huge selection of used books upstairs and cheap shots of the aniseed liquor pastis. French-run.

* Linga Bar, the only officially gay-friendly bar in the village that attracts gay and straights alike. In the words of the owner, your grandmother would feel comfortable here. Great drinks opposite the markets, parallel to the "bar" street.

* Soup Dragon, Pub St. A restaurant/bar on one of the corners of the "bar" street in the old part of town. Great sunset vista from their rooftop with the added bonus being it is the same time as happy hour - two for one cocktails, drinks range from US$2-4. The food is mostly vietnamese, good and cheap plus they make their own ice cream.

* Warehouse/The Art House. Two bars for the price of one: downstairs has an appropriately warehouse-y feel with lots of red brick and a "Service Entrance", while upstairs is a clean white art gallery that also happens to serve drinks. Free draft beer offered at various times on Friday, though courtesy dictates you have a drink or two before or afterwards or dine from the food menu.

* Laundry Bar A popular French-owned expat hangout with a sophisticated setting and chilled atmosphere, this is definitely a late-night bar. It features a huge selection of music albums for sale at US$5 for 7 albums (On one MP3 disk). Free pool table.

[edit] Sleep

Accommodations range from towering air-conditioned hotels by the airport (mostly for get-in-get-out all-inclusive tours) to local rooms-for-rent and a range of modest guesthouses in town, particular on and around Wat Bo road.

If you arrive with a tour bus or van you will be taken to a "suggested" guesthouse. Usually these are not too bad and you'll probably be too tired to argue.

If you arrive by plane, you may wish to contact a guest house in advance. They will then usually arrange for free transportation to their place. Otherwise just take a motorbike (US$1) or a taxi (US$2) to town. If you don't know any place to go to, they will ask for your budget and will then 'suggest' one.
[edit] Budget

* Earthwalkers, Sala Kanseng Village, 1,5 km from city centre just of Highway 6, tel. + 855 (0) 12 967 901, [8]. High quality budget accommodation with comfortable rooms with fan or A/C from US$4-17 with full en suite facilities.

* Two Dragons Guesthouse, Wat Bo, [9]. Guesthouse run by Gordon Sharpless of Tales of Asia fame. A/C, hot water, cable TV, and the self-proclaimed cleanest rooms in Cambodia, from US$7.

* Rosy Guesthouse, Slar Kram Village, tel. 012 916 930, 012 951 692. Rooms with fans, satellite TV and shower with hot water inside. Rates are US$5.

* Home Sweet Home Guesthouse, No. 0111 Wat Bo, tel. 063 760 279, [10]. Rooms with fans and shower inside are US$8, shared shower US$5.

* The Queen House Villa, No. 0209 Wat Damnak Street, Tel. 011221838, [11]. Big, clean rooms with fan, hot water, A/C, start from US$6. Free breakfast and bicycles. Just 2 Minutes from the center!

* Family Guest House, No. 019 Mondoul 2, Svay Dangkum, tel. +855 (0)12 841 864. Newly built concrete building with aircon and fan only rooms, TV and hot water available. Restaurant with good Khmer and western food. Start at US$6 (main season).

* The LyLy Guest House, No. 547, Svay Dangkum, tel. 012705959, email has rooms from 3 to 6 US$ and is run by a friendly family (speaking French and English).

[edit] Mid-range

* Mom's Guesthouse, #0099, Phom Wat Bo, [12]. One of the longer-running guesthouses in Siem Reap, now in a new if somewhat characterless building. Mom will be happy to make all sorts of travel and transport arrangements. Rates US$15/20/30 for air-con singles/doubles/triples with breakfast, hot water and airport transfers included.

* Molly Malone's, [13]. Irish Bar and Restaurant has a number of air conditioned rooms, starting from US$20. Family-sized rooms available. Friendly staff and good food, located in the center of town.

* Golden Banana B&B, [14]. 5 minutes walk from market/bar area, quiet garden setting. Free-standing a/c rooms with hot shower, swimming pool. Breakfast included, Khmer style lunch/dinner. Gay-friendly. Transports and temple guides can be arranged. US$23/25/28 for single/double/twin. Recently opened (08/2006) Golden Banana Boutique Hotel, [15]. Same owner, same location, better rooms. US$45/50/55 for single/double/twin.

* Auberge Mont Royal d'Angkor, [16] Just off the main strip sits this charming little hotel with brilliant staff, great service, beautiful a/c rooms, new pool and spa and a good restaurant. They will pick you up at the airport and will arrange day-trips, guides and anything you might need while in Siem Reap. US$25-50 per room.

[edit] Splurge

* Angkor Village Hotel & Resort, tel. +855-63-963-361. [17]. The architecture of both hotels is directly inspired from cambodian traditional villages. Built in true khmer tradition, the wooden houses nestled among tropical ponds and gardens, secluded from the hustle of the town, offer peace and serenity . From US$147.

* Prince D'Angkor, Sivatha Blvd, tel. +855-63-763-888. [18]. Upmarket hotel and spa. Fairly central location a 10-minute stroll from the center of town. From US$180.

* Amansara, [19]. Prince Sihanouk's former guesthouse, close to the main entrance to Angkor Wat. Rates from US$650 up.

* Casa Angkor, Oum Chhay / Oum Khun Street, tel. +855-63-963658, [20]. Former boutique hotel now expanded to three times its previous size and trying to claw its way upmarket. It looks pretty from the outside, the miniature pool is nice and the polished cycle-rickshaws add a cute touch, but at heart it's still a thoroughly generic mid-range concrete barracks that doesn't deserve the price tag. From US$80.

* Hôtel de la Paix, Sivatha Boulevard, tel. +855-63-966000, [21]. The newest and, just maybe, the best five-star in town. Tastefully done in a colonial-modern fusion style, with pool, spa and very good restaurants. Location is very central. From US$200.

* Le Meridien Angkor, Vithei Charles de Gaulle (the road to Angkor), tel. +855-63-963900, [22]. Opened in 2004, the ordinary-looking exterior hides what feels like a slick, modern big city hotel. The large pool/spa complex, set off from the main building, is particularly remarkable. From US$150.

* The One Hotel, Angkor, The Passage, tel. +855-12-755-311. [23]. Located in a charming central side street in a freestanding French colonial building, this hotel has only one (1) suite for one or two guests. Street view balconies and a private roof top jacuzzi garden. US$250.

* Raffles Grand Hotel D'Angkor, [24]. Siem Reap's grand old hotel, originally built by the French. Subject to a boycott in some quarters as, when their waiters and bartenders had the audacity to ask to keep their tips, they fired the lot.

[edit] Contact

Internet cafés abound in Siem Reap, prices being US$.75-1.50 per hour. Speed of connection, and speed of PC, very much depends from place to place.

* E-Café, on Sivatha St north of Psar Chas, [25]. A cut above the rest in connection and service quality, as well as price at US$1.50/hour.

* Figo's cafe's food is a bit more expensive, but offers free wireless internet to its customers.

[edit] Stay safe

Generally the Siem Reap area and the temples of Angkor are relatively safe, however the usual cautions still apply as with any town or city. Whilst visiting the temples, however, beware of off duty police officers, who are in uniform, that start walking beside you and start showing you around the temples. At this point either say that you would like to see the temples yourself, or agree on a price at the start. Several people have been requested for a fee of over US$10 at the end of the temple tour and you are not going to argue with a member of the police force! The official wage for a police office is very low, so they can easily double their salary by being tourist guides.

Siem Reap and the Angkor temples have long since been thoroughly demined.
[edit] Get out

* If you haven't seen enough temples yet, the ancient capital of Koh Ker and the commanding hilltop ruins of Preah Vihear next to the Thai border might be worth a trip. ]]> Tue, 01 Jul 2008 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=694 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=5059 0 13.3666667 103.85 [edit] Understand

For western visitors, even those who have visited other Asian cities, Phnom Penh can be a bit of a shock. It can be very hot and (in the dry season) dusty, its infrastructure is lacking, and it is a very poor city - much poorer than, for example, Bangkok or Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). In the past the visitor who could not adjust to rubbish filled streets and large numbers of beggars could give Phnom Penh a miss.

But things are changing. The infrastructure is improving rapidly - fewer power outages, streets are paved, rubbish is collected more frequently - and the city retains much of the beauty that made it a Paris of the east before 1970. Beautiful wide boulevards, fine colonial architecture and a parklike riverfront with cafés and restaurants aplenty help make Phnom Penh a worthwhile destination. Not necessarily for its standard tourist sights, which are few. But as a place to relax, watch the streetlife and absorb local color Phnom Penh rates very high among Asian cities. The beggars are still there, along with a great number of street kids and kids selling tourist paraphernalia, but this is most visible in heavily touristed areas. And generally the touts and kids are less aggressive and persistent than say their Indian or Vietnamese counterparts.

Those who find themselves struggling with Phnom Penh's current state should recall the terrible times the city has been through in recent decades. In 1975 it was choked with up to 2 million refugees from the war between the then U.S.-backed government and the Khmer Rouge, and after it fell to the Khmer Rouge, it was completely emptied of civilians and allowed to crumble for the next four years. Most of the already small class of skilled professionals were murdered or driven into exile. The city fell to the Vietnamese Army in 1979, but the new Cambodian government had no money to spend on urban improvement until the peace settlement of 1992.

As Cambodia's economy has recovered a new rich class has arisen in Phnom Penh, and a crop of new hotels and restaurants has opened to accommodate them and the tourist trade; as yet however there's very little in between the extremely rich and the extremely poor. But here too there are changes in the wind; take a trip to the green-domed Sorya mall and you're transported to the consumerist world to which the emerging middle and upper classes aspire.

The free Phnom Penh Visitors Guide by Canby Publications (available from hotels/guesthouses and some restaurants) contains lots of good info on Phnom Penh, including accommodation/bar/restaurant/shop details, travel & transport options, maps, etc.
[edit] Orientation

All of Phnom Penh's streets are numbered, although some major thoroughfares have names as well. The scheme is simple: odd-numbered streets run north-south, the numbers increasing as you head west from the river, and even numbers run west-east, increasing as you head south (with some exceptions, e.g. the west side of the Boeung Kak lake). House numbers, however, are quite haphazard. Don't expect houses to be numbered sequentially in a street; you might even find two completely unrelated houses with the same number in the same street.
[edit] Get in

See Cambodia for more information on getting into the country.
[edit] By plane

Departure taxes

International flights: US$25
Domestic flights: US$6

Both must be paid in US dollars cash. In theory, you can pay by credit card, but the option is usually unavailable.

Phnom Penh Airport (PNH), formerly but no longer called Pochentong, is Cambodia's largest international airport and most flights into the country pass through there. There are daily flights from all major regional airports (Bangkok, Hong Kong, Ho Chi Minh City, Singapore, Taipei) as well as from Luang Prabang in Laos. Airlines include Bangkok Airways, Lao Aviation, Shanghai Airlines, Thai Airways, Silk Air, Dragon Air, among others. Malaysian low-cost carrier Air Asia has daily flights from Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur. The new terminal is a thoroughly pleasant and modern facility, and features a post office, bank (including ATMs), restaurants, duty-free shop, newsstand, tourist help desk, and business center.

Visas are available on arrival at the airport, and the process is easy if a little cumbersome: queue once to submit passport and visa application, once more to pay and pick it up, and only then proceed to immigration. Fees must be paid with USD notes; one passport photo is required (or else a US$1 surcharge must be paid). Single entry 30 day tourist visas cost US$20 (can be extended once only, to 60 days total). Single entry 30 day business visas cost US$25 (can be extended indefinitely, and become valid for multiple entries after the first extension).

The airport is about 11km from the city centre (Sisowath Quay). Taxis from the public taxi stand at the airport cost a flat US$7. Pay the fare at the taxi desk inside the door exiting the terminal, at which point you will be allocated a driver. Alternatively, you will find plenty of drivers immediately outside the exit from the terminal building. For visitors on a budget without a lot of luggage, it's worth catching an official moto for US$2, or walking out to the main road to save even more.
[edit] By bus

There are bus services to Phnom Penh from Poipet (on the border with Thailand) and from Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam ($8-10, 5-6 hours), as well as from points throughout Cambodia. Two of the largest bus companies, Sorya (formerly Ho Wah Genting) and GST, both arrive and depart from the rather chaotic "station" at the southwest corner of the Central Market. Capitol Tours runs buses throughout Cambodia and onward to Ho Chi Minh City and the Mekong Delta, where they link up with Vietnam travel giant Sinh Cafe. Advance bookings are advisable, and can also be sorted out by most travel agents and guesthouses for a token fee.

Many travellers arriving from Thailand break their journey with a detour to Siem Reap, site of the ruins of Angkor. Most buses depart from/to Siem Reap in the early morning, a few more follow around noon; the journey takes about 5 hours. There are also frequent services to Sihanoukville. Basic air-con bus fares start around US$3-4; double-deckers with comfy seats, toilets, drink, food and bus-hostess charge up to US$10.
[edit] By boat

Ferries connect Phnom Penh to Siem Reap; tickets for foreigners typically cost US$20-30. Many (but not all) of these ferries offer the option of sitting on the roof, which makes for a much more scenic - although much less comfortable - ride than the bus ; take sunblock, a hat, and enough water to last you for several hours in case the boat gets stuck (12 hour boat rides are not unheard of).

Fast boats leave every morning around 8am from Chau Doc in Vietnam's Mekong Delta and take 5 hours to reach Phnom Penh. The boats make the return journey the same day and leave Phnom Penh around 1 PM arriving in Chau Doc in the early evening.
[edit] By train

There is a very slow, once-weekly train service between Phnom Penh and Battambang via Pursat. The journey is scheduled to take 14 hours but may be much longer, even though the distance by rail is only 275 km. It costs US$5 one-way for foreigners.

Phnom Penh to Battambang : Saturdays, departs 06:20, arrives 20:00
Battambang to Phnom Penh : Sundays, departs 06:40, arrives 19:00
[edit] Get around

Phnom Penh's main streets are in good shape; however other streets and footpaths are often rutted and pot-holed, clogged with garbage, stagnant water, parked motos, sleeping people, livestock and building materials. Many smaller streets either lack signage or bear misleading signs, however, Phnom Penh is logically laid out (see orientation) and navigating the city is not difficult if you know where you're going.

* Motorbikes (but not self-drive cars) are available for rent, however traffic is chaotic and public transport may be safer for casual visitors.

* Motorbike-taxis (motodops/motodups in local parlance) are ubiquitous and will take you anywhere for a small fare. A trip from Sisowath Quay to Central Market costs about 2,000 riel (50 US cents). Fares are higher at night and with more than one passenger.

* Taxis are available at a few locations - most notably outside the Foreign Correspondents Club on Sisowath Quay. Taxis do not have meters, and fares must be agreed in advance. Fares vary, due to fluctuating fuel prices; ask hotel/guesthouse staff for assistance (hotels and guesthouses will organise taxis on request).

* Tuk-tuks Cambodian-style consist of a motorcycle with a cabin for the passengers hitched to the back. They are cheaper than taxis and offer a scenic experience of the city. Their clientele is exclusively tourists, and most drivers speak some English.

* Cyclos are three-wheeled cycle-rickshaws. Considerably slower then a motodop, and gradually becoming less common in the city, they are still popular with locals and foreigners alike. The nature of the seat lends itself to a quick and easy way to transport all manner of goods from one place to another, even other cyclos and the occasional motorbike as well.

* Walking can be a challenge, as cars and motos do not stop for pedestrians. To cross safely, judge gaps in the traffic and proceed with care - give oncoming vehicles ample time to see and avoid you, or try to cross with the brightly coloured and revered monks. There is almost no street lighting off the major boulevards, and walking at night is not recommended.

[edit] See
Sisowath Quay as seen from FCC
Sisowath Quay as seen from FCC

* Sisowath Quay is an attractive boulevard running along the banks of the Mekong and Tonle Sap, and is fronted by a pleasant park. The built-up side of the street is home to cafés and shops and the better class of bar, and is extremely popular with tourists and expat Westerners. The esplanade along the river is equally popular with Cambodians, who come here in the cool of the evening to enjoy the quasi-carnival atmosphere. It begins at the Royal Palace (or rather, at the river-front park opposite the Palace), and is perhaps best experienced in the early evening. See A Stroll on Sisowath Quay for a self-guided tour.

* The Royal Palace and the two magnificent pagodas in the Palace Grounds, the Silver Pagoda and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, are among the few public buildings in Phnom Penh really worth seeing. They were built in the 19th century with French technology and Cambodian designs, and have survived the traumas of the 20th century amazingly intact. See them early before it gets too hot. They are in any case closed 11:00-14:00, when all sensible Cambodians take a nap. Entrance fee is $3 for both, plus $2 for a camera or $5 for a video camera. No photography is allowed inside the Silver Pagoda and some of the Palace buildings. You're expected to dress decently (no bare legs or shoulders), but you can rent sarongs and oversized T-shirts for a token 1000 riel (plus $1 deposit) at the entrance.

* The National Museum (opposite the Royal Palace; admission $3). Contains an excellent collection of art from Cambodia's "golden age" of Angkor, and a lovely courtyard at the center. The pleasant little park in front of the Museum is the site of the annual Royal Ploughing Ceremony, at which the success or otherwise of the coming harvest is determined. You may have heard stories of sightseers carrying umbrellas inside to avoid showers of bat droppings, but alas (?), the bats moved out after the renovation of 2002.

* Wat Phnom (admission $1) is on a hill at the center of a small park near Sisowath Quay, on St. 94. The temple itself is notable more for its historic importance than what you'll see there today, but the park is a pleasant green space and a popular gathering place for locals. A few monkeys keep quarters there as well and will help themselves to any drinks you've left unattended.

* Independence and Liberation memorials - impressive Buddhist-style Independence Memorial, commemorating the departure of the French in 1953, dominates the centre of the city. Nearby is the very ugly Stalin-style Liberation Memorial, marking the Vietnamese capture of the city in 1979. Although the Cambodians were glad to see the back of the Khmer Rouge, they don't like the Vietnamese much either, and have demonstrated this by neglecting the memorial for 20 years. It seems to be used mainly as a convenient urinal.

Tuol Sleng Prison
Tuol Sleng Prison

* Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21) (Street 113, Boeng Keng Kang 3, Chamkar Morn, Phnom Penh; tel. 855-23-300-698, fax 855-23-210-358) [1] was a school converted into Cambodia's most important prison in 1975. More than 14,000 people were tortured here before being killed at the Killing Fields south of Phnom Penh; only 8 prisoners made it out alive. The museum is easily accessible and a must-see for everyone interested in Cambodia's horrific recent past. The infamous "skull map" has been dismantled, although there are still skulls stacked in cabinets, implements of torture and disturbing photographs. For a introduction and further reading, try David Chandler's "Voices from S-21" (ISBN 0520222474).
o The Documentation Center of Cambodia (66 Preah Sihanouk Blvd. P.O. Box 1110 Phnom Penh; tel. 855-23-211-875, fax 855-23-210-358) [2] manages the museum as part of its mission to record the history of the Khmer Rouge and gather evidence, should any Khmer Rouge leaders ever be brought to trial.

The Killing Fields
The Killing Fields

* The Killing Fields at Cheoung Ek, about 17km south of Phnom Penh, is where the Khmer Rouge killed many thousands of their victims during their four-year reign of terror. Today the site is marked by a Buddhist stupa packed full of human skulls - the sides are made of glass so the visitors can see them up close. There are also pits in the area where mass graves were unearthed. It is a serene yet somber place.

* Stung Meanchey Garbage Dump, [3]. Where hundreds of the poorest of the poor, including many small children, swarm over the refuse hoping to find anything of value. A certain type of tourist visits this place - if it's you, make sure you stop by the NGO "Pour sourire un enfant" [4], which helps the children of this place, and make a donation.

[edit] Itineraries

* A Stroll on Sisowath Quay - a half-day tour connecting together sightseeing, eating and shopping

[edit] Do

* Thunder Ranch is a shooting range near Cheoung Ek. Moto drivers, apparently oblivious to the reaction most visitors have, will try to include this in a trip to the killing fields. Rumors abound that cows and other farm animals used to serve as targets, but this is probably no longer the case. Prices range from USD30 for an AK-47 to USD200 for a rocket launcher.

[edit] Buy

As elsewhere in Cambodia, transactions are made in US dollars and in Cambodian riel, and only upmarket places will accept plastic. Take lots of low denomination US notes - notes above USD20 can be difficult to change. In place of coins you will get back riel, at a set exchange rate of 4000 to the dollar. There are a number of international ATM machines dispensing US currency around the city, including the Sisowath Quay tourist strip and in Sorya Market.

Popular tourist buys include Cambodian silk, local silverware, traditional handicrafts and curios (including Buddha figures), and made-to-order clothes.
The Art Deco dome of the Central Market
The Art Deco dome of the Central Market

* Central Market (in Cambodian called Psar Thmei - "New Market") is a 1930s Art Deco covered market near the Riverfront (Sisowath Quay) district. The market is well set out, and sells everything from flowers to video games. Sorya market, currently Phnom Penh's main Western-style mall, is nearby - less colourful that the traditional markets, but it is air-con and contains a range of cheap fast-food outlets as well as a well-stocked supermarket.

* Russian Market (Cambodian "Psar Toul Tom Poung" - it gained the "Russian Market" moniker following the Vietnamese occupation of the city in the 1980s, but many motodops are not familiar with the name) offers the opportunity to buy fake designer clothing, fake swiss watches and pirated software at low prices. It also has the best ice coffee in the city. Russian Market is located away from normal tourist areas, but motodop drivers who cater to tourists will know it.

Street 178, just north of the National Museum, is known as Artist Street and has many interesting boutiques.

* Colours of Cambodia, 373 Sisowath Quay. Handicrafts from around the country.

* Kravan House, #13 St. 178. Has a wide range of Cambodian silk products, including a wide range of ladies' handbags at a fraction of the price you would pay in a hotel gift shop.

* Stef's Happy Painting, Sisowath Quay (near St. 178, directly under FCC), [5]. Features brightly-colored fun and funky paintings of Cambodian life - a welcome relief after visiting some of Cambodia's more heart-breaking attractions.

Antiques dealers in Phnom Penh are an unscrupulous lot and may sell goods that theoretically should not be exported from Cambodia. See Heritage Watch [6] for listings of bad apples.

* Hidden Treasures, #9 Street 148, has antiques, art and curios from Cambodia's past and nearby South-East Asian cultures.

[edit] Eat

Phnom Penh offers some interesting culinary treats you won't find elsewhere in the country. Many of these include French-influenced dining as well as Thai, Vietnamese, and modern takes on traditional Cambodian dishes. The standard pizza-banana pancake-fried rice backpacker fare is also always easy to find.

The best area to wander is along the riverfront where everything from stand-up stalls to fine French bistros can be found. Take great care eating from stalls, however. Peeled fruit and vegetables and anything uncooked should be regarded with suspicion.
[edit] Budget

Take the cross river ferry to sit on mats and eat cheap hawker food while watching the sunset over the city.

* Jungle Bar and Grill [7], 273B Sisowath Quay, next to Riverside Bistro, has a varied international menu at very reasonable prices and a great happy hour. Free Internet and a great music selection.

* La Croisette, corner of Sisowath Quay and Street 144, is a French sidewalk café that's open all day.

* Setsara Thai Restaurant, #3D Street 278, is a very nice little Thai restaurant with a really good Thai chef, good music, reasonable prices and good service though a bit slow sometimes. They have some good French specialties as well.

[edit] Mid-range

* Bali Café, 379 Sisowath Quay, has pretty good Indonesian food. Try the Tahu Telur (Fried Tofu with Eggs). Be careful ordering water or you'll get the small plastic bottle of Evian - at USD3!

* Equinox [8] on Street 278 (near Street 51) has now opened a pretty good restaurant. Pizzas, baguettes, burgers, pastas and some more western specialities on the menu. Great indoor outdoor ambiance. Meat and salads come from a local organization who encourage and teach farmers in organic growing methods.

* Friends Restaurant, #215 Street 13 (50m north of the National Museum) is run by and for a non-profit that rehabilitates Cambodia's street children, and does delicious international tapas and main dishes.

* Frizz restaurant, #335, Sisowath Quay [9] has traditional Cambodian cuisine, and also operates the Cambodia Cooking Class [10].

* Garden Center Café, #23 Street 57 [11] is a garden setting café/restaurant that's popular with local ex-pats.

* Khmer Surin, #11 Street 57 (south of Sihanouk Boulevard) is a rather romantic restaurant that serves delicious Khmer and Thai food. The traditional Khmer seafood dish, amok, stands out.

* Lazy Gecko, #23B Street 93, Boeung Kak Lake, does a REALLY good hamburger, and a percentage of their profits go to Janine's Childrens Orphanage.

* Le Duo, Street 322 (between Monivong and Street 63) has excellent Italian food. Sicilian-born Luigi makes great pastas and pizzas.

* Metro Café, on the corner of Sisowath Quay and Street 148 (opposite Riverside Bistro), is a stylish fusion of Asian and Western culture. Air-con. Good selection of small tapas-style dishes from USD1 and a great steak (about USD12).

* Paris Bubble Tea, 285-287 Preah Monivong (not far from the New York Hotel) tel 023 990 373; is pleasant and has fun and refreshing Bubble Tea. Try the classic Pearl Milk Tea.

* Riverside Bistro, #273a Sisowath Quay [12] occupies an old colonial style building and features comfortable outdoor dining with brilliant views of the Tonle Sap. Popular with local expats, tourists and local affluent Khmers. Try Khmer's "root of lotus".

[edit] Splurge

* 102, 1A, St. 102 (one block south of Le Royal), tel. 023-990-880. Probably Phnom Penh's top French restaurant, set in a modern, European-style surroundings. The food is quite competent and the onion soup is superb. Almost entirely undiscovered by tourists but popular with Phnom Penh's moneyed elite, so reservations recommended. $30.

* FCC (Foreign Correspondents Club), 363 Sisowath Quay. Modern colonial-style charm, superb views of the river and is a favourite expat hang-out that does particularly good desserts. Their signature cocktails, Tonle Sap Breezer and Burmese Rum Sour ($4.50 each), are also worth a quaff.

* Le Bistrot, #4D, Street 29 - French and Italian in an old villa.

* Xiang Palace (Hotel Intercontinental) Chinese - expensive fine dining, dim sum.

[edit] Drink

Superficial security

Most of the time, Phnom Penh bars and clubs are safe enough and a lot of fun - however, some of the more "hip" places are popular with the notorious local "elite" youth (and their minders) who carry firearms and other weapons, and who are allowed to pass through so-called "security" checks without being searched.

Places to hang out after dark include Street 104, Street 278, and Street 108 around the Street 51 corner, which all feature restaurant bars, hostess bars, and guesthouses.

* Barbados, south of Street 104 near the river, is a hostess bar. Buy 5 beers and get 1 free.

* DV8 Bar & Guesthouse [13] on Street 148 (near the riverfront) is a popular hostess bar with a good selection of spirits and a pool table on the 2nd floor - great if you're a single guy. Good accommodation on the premises.

* Elephant Bar, Raffles Le Royal. The classy bar at the classiest hotel in town, with frescos on the ceiling and live piano in the evenings. Try the Femme Fatale, a mix of cognac and champagne dreamed up for Jacqui Kennedy in 1967. Expensive.

* Elsewhere on Street 51 is an ex-pat hang-out with platform seating surrounding a small pool, in a French colonial villa. Big party first Friday of every month, when the place is packed.

* Equinox [14] on Street 278 (near Street 51) is a cocktail bar featuring paintings by local artist Soumey and photo exhibits by Isabelle Lesser, gaming room with a pool table and the unique bonzini foosball table of Phnom Penh, cool tunes, good food. Increasingly popular with expats.

* Golden Vine on street 108 next to VooDoo Lounge. Hostess bar with pole dancing and good food. Sunday roast recommended.

* Heart of Darkness has long been the most infamous nightclub in Phnom Penh, closed in August 2005 after a patron was shot to death but is now back in business. Some seating is reserved for well-heeled (gangster elite) Phnom Penh local youth, so move if you are asked. While certainly not the safest place in the world, more nights go by without incident than not. A number of expats avoid it now, however. Saturday nights are always packed.

* Martini Pub & Disco on Street 95 (one block off Monivong Blvd, across from the Total Gas Station) is an infamous girlie bar. Two full bars, food USD2-6, burgers & fries, pizza, Asian dishes, gaming room, disco, outdoor big-screen showing movies or sports. There some copycat Martini bars in other places like Sihanoukeville and Siem Reap, but this is the original. A place for single men and loose ladies.

* Monsoon Wine Bar on Street 104 is an intimate, cosy wine bar. Try a glass of wine from the well-chosen international wine list or nibble on something from the small but excellent Pakistani menu. Chilled vibe, cool tunes, friendly service.

* OneZeroFour Bar [15] on Street 104 is a popular low-key hostess bar, one of the few bars in Phnom Penh with a foosball table.

* Pit Stop on Street 51 is a popular hostess bar.

* Rubies on Street 240 is a wine bar favoured by young ex-pats working for local NGOs. Busy with a cliquey atmosphere on a weekend night.

* Sharky's Bar & Restaurant, #126 Street 130, Phnom Penh [16] Since its opening in 1995, Sharky's has been rocking & rolling. Located upstairs on the first floor above street level, Sharky's boasts a large space, huge center bar, outside balcony, and plenty of available seating. Most moto taxis will understand "Shockeee Bah". It's about three 1/2 blocks from the "Psar Thmei" (new market).

* Sugar Shack [17] on Sothearos (the street in front of the National Museum and Palace) is a classy little hostess bar featuring a nice wine selection.

* VooDoo Lounge on Street 51 near street 108 is a new bar with a great range of drinks, nice decor, air-con, happy hostesses, and a pool table. Two other hostess bars nearby.

* Walkabout on Street 51 has food and good pool tables. Many freelance girls congregate here. Popular after hours bar, also has rooms available. Open 24 hours.

* Zanzibar on Street 104 is high energy hostess bar with reasonable prices and a pool table upstairs, that's very popular among expats.

* Zapata Bar on Street 108 next to VooDoo Lounge is a stylish air-con hostess bar with a good range of drinks, and no pool table or food to distract you from the lovely ladies.

[edit] Sleep

Phnom Penh has a wide variety of accommodation, ranging from budget guesthouses (about USD5-20) through good quality mid-range hotels (USD20-50) to extravagant palaces (with extravagant prices to match).
[edit] Budget
Boeung Kak Lake, Phnom Penh
Boeung Kak Lake, Phnom Penh

Low-cost backpacker accommodation is becoming more abundant by the week. Most is clustered either near the riverfront or at Boeung Kak Lake.

* DV8 Guesthouse & Bar, #7 Street 148; tel. 012 620 441 / 012 776 885 [18] is a small boutique guesthouse located just off the riverfront; ground floor bar, second floor pool table. Rooms USD5-25.

* King Guesthouse, 141th Street, off Sihanouk Avenue; tel. 012 220 512; has ample rooms available to suit your budget. Provides own daily bus service to and from Ho Chi Minh City.

* Number Nine Guesthouse, #9 Street 93 Boeung Kak Lake; tel. 012 766 225 / 012 935 813 - well known and popular. Excellent sunsets by the lake. Rooms USD2-4

* Number Nine Sister Guesthouse, tel. 012 424 240 - just around the corner from, but not as nice as, the original.

* Rory's Guesthouse, #33 Street 178 (facing the Royal Palace and National Museum and 100 meters from the riverfront) tel. 012 425 702 [19] - rooms USD10-30.

* Simon's Guesthouse, #11 Street 93 Boeung Kak Lake, tel. 012 884 650. Tricky to find but the layout of the rooms (with bathrooms or shared) allows for a nice, cool breeze. Rooms USD2-3.

* Top Banana Guesthouse, #2 Street 278 [20] - A very laid back guesthouse with a cozy atmosphere and a wanderlust feel. Rooms for as low as five dollars a night, and suprisingly good food.

* Capitol 3 Guesthouse, #207Eo, Street 107, Sangkat Beng Prolit, 7 Makara, Phnom Penh; tel. 023 211 027. Next to the Capitol Tours office and a terrific value at $4 per night. Warm, friendly staff and quick laundry service. Five floors of squeaky-clean rooms that are out of the direct sunlight and never seem to get too hot - no elevators, though.

[edit] Mid-range

* California 2 Guesthouse, 317 Sisowath Quay (on the riverfront, close to Wat Ounalom) [21] has nice clean rooms with bathroom, air-con, 'fridge, TV. Laundry service. USD15-25 including breakfast.

* Golden Gate Hotel, #9 Street 278, Sangkat Beng Keng Kang 1, Khan Chamkarmorn (near the Independence Monument) tel. +855 23 427618, [22] is a reliable place to stay with a range of hotel rooms, from USD15 for a single in the older block to USD40 or more for a suite in the new block. Clean, safe and comfortable. Great place for long-term stays, with discounted rates. Restaurants, shops and Internet cafés within walking distance.

* Paragon Hotel, 219B Sisowath Quay. Riverfront, near lots of good cafés. Rooms have bathroom, a/c, tv, fridge. No breakfast, but close to restaurants that serve breakfast. USD15-30.

[edit] Splurge

There are a surprising number of 4 and 5 star hotels in Phnom Penh.

* Intercontinental Hotel, Mao Tse Tung Blvd. A favourite among visiting dignitaries, but rather out of the way in the southwest corner of the city.

* Phnom Penh Hotel, Monivong Blvd (just south of the French Embassy). Newly renovated with very nicely appointed rooms and suites.

* Raffles Le Royal, 92 Rukhak Vithei Daun Penh (off Monivong Blvd), tel. +855 23 981 888, fax. +855 23 981 168, [23]. Phnom Penh's grand old hotel, originally built in 1929 by the French, used as a dry fish store by the Khmer Rouge but given a loving redecoration by the Raffles group in 1999. Walking distance to Wat Phnom and the river, excellent service, wonderful attention to detail and the "Landmark" rooms in the old wing still use bathtubs and even light switches from 1929 (plus broadband internet and walk-in showers). $150/300 low/high season.

[edit] Contact
[edit] Telephone
[edit] Internet

There is no shortage of Internet cafés in Phnom Penh. Most are in the 1,500 riel/hour bracket (a little under 50 US cents), but provide slow service, suffer occasional power outages and do not run firewalls or anti-virus programs.

* Sunny Internet, 178 Street (opp Foreign Correspondents Club), also Sisowath Quay (next to the Riverstreet restaurant). Provides a faster service at USD1/hour and is popular with tourists and expats.

Wireless and wired connections for laptops are available at a number of outlets - most five-star hotels (which provide high-speed broadband access, but at a premium), and a number of cafés along Sisowath Quay including the Foreign Correspondents Club, Fresco Café (under the FCC), K-West Café (at the Amanjaya Hotel), the Jungle Bar and Grill, and Phnom Penh Café (near Paragon Hotel).
[edit] Post
[edit] Stay healthy
[edit] Stay safe

Phnom Penh has a partly deserved bad reputation. In the old days Phnom Penh was a rather dangerous place. Things have changed a lot but there are still more bad guys with guns than you might find in some other Asian cities. Official figures (almost certainly underestimates) report an average of 50 incidents per month (Cambodians and foreigners), leading to 5 deaths and 10 serious injuries. Most commonly Cambodians are victimised for their cell phones or motorbikes. Violent interactions with tourists are rare. Still, avoid walking at night, try to find a dependable moto driver and don't carry more than necessary. Bag-snatching by thieves on bikes is common so if you must carry a bag, try to keep it on the side facing away from the street. This is a particular problem outside popular ex-pat hang-outs (e.g. Elsewhere) on a weekend night. Some moto-dop drivers may be in league with the thieves. Moto drivers who work the riverside are generally quite reliable. In terms of personal safety the greatest danger in Phnom Penh is not getting robbed by hoods at gunpoint, but rather getting whacked by a motorbike in the chaotic traffic. Exercise common sense in your travels around the city and you should be alright.
[edit] Cope
[edit] Get out

Sihanoukville, Battambang, Siem Reap and Angkor are within a few hours' reach; see above. Some companies also offer services to Kampot and Bokor National Park.

Several tour companies offer day-trips to Tonle Bati, which includes Ta Prohm, an Angkor-era temple not to be mistaken for the Angkor-area temple of the same name. ]]> Tue, 01 Jul 2008 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=694 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=5058 0 11.55 104.9166667 Afternoon siesta, near Ben Thanh Market
Afternoon siesta, near Ben Thanh Market
[edit] Understand

Saigon was officially renamed Ho Chi Minh City on May 1st 1975. However, the old Saigon moniker is still very widely used by both Vietnamese and foreigners -- especially when referring to the most central part of the city, to which most tourists flock.

The helpful, squeaky clean Tourist Information Center (4G 4H Le Loi St, Dist. 1, HCMC. Tel (84-8) 822 6033) can be found on the northeast corner of the roundabout at the intersection of Le Loi and Nguyen Hue, right in the heart of the city. It's a great place to pick up a free map (which includes a map of Hanoi, as well) and get an idea of what the city and surrounding area has to offer.
[edit] Get in
[edit] By plane

Tan Son Nhat (IATA: SGN | ICAO: VVTS) is Vietnam's largest international airport. Immigration is notoriously strict and can be time consuming, but if your papers are in order you should be fine. Note that the all-white departure cards are only for those without the 'yellow paper' received upon arrival.

The recently introduced No. 152 air-con airport bus is the cheapest way into the city, and will drop you off on the west side of the Pham Ngu Lao area, or at the bus terminal on the south side of the Ben Thanh Market roundabout. The price was recently increased to 3000 dong - still a bargain by any measure.

Taxis from the airport to the city centre take 30 minutes and cost USD3-5; make sure the driver uses the meter. However, if you want to avoid the trouble of bargaining and negotiating, you can just buy a "Taxi coupon" near the exit of the airport terminal for USD5.

You can change money at the airport, but you're probably better off paying for your first trip with USD and exchanging in the city as the exchange in the airport may charge a commission as high as 3%.

Taxi drivers get commission for taking customers to certain hotels so when arriving at the airport be explicit about exactly which hotel you want to be taken to. This may be harder than expected if the hotel is one that doesn't pay commission.

When going to the airport, taxi drivers often attempt a scam involving an airport entry tax; it's their job to pay it. As of November 2006, international departure taxes should be included in the price of your ticket. Check with your airline before leaving, however, as some tickets (including any bought before the November 2006 change) do not include the tax, and you'll find yourself faced with a 240,000 dong suprise at the check-in counter.
[edit] By bus

The multitude of private tour company buses usually drop passengers off on Pham Ngu Lao just west of De Tham, giving easy access to accommodation in the backpacker area. Of course, this means that you'll have at least 40-odd people shopping for the same rooms, which can be daunting as the nearby spots get snapped up. Patience will reward those who dig deeper into the tiny alleys, which have a (suprisingly safe) life of their own.
[edit] By train

The train station is located on Cach Mang Thang Tam northwest of the city centre, and is a short taxi or public bus ride away from the main hotel districts.
[edit] Get around
[edit] By taxi

Taxis are the most comfortable way of getting around, and it's easy and safe to flag a taxi anywhere, anytime; but beware rigged meters that increase the fare too fast.

Carry small change and bills for paying fares, which are quite cheap at 12000 dong for the first 2km, plus 6000 dong per additional km. However, not all taxis are created equal: newer cars are more likely to have working air-con; larger mini-SUV-type models charge a higher rate.
[edit] By motorbike

Motorbikes (xe ôm) are plentiful, cheap, and can be either safe or dangerous. Absolutely agree on a price before you set off; short hops around town shouldn't be more than 10000 dong, and all the way to the airport around 30000. And if your stomach is a tight hard knot, don't hesitate to ask the driver to go a little slower.

You can rent your own motorbike in many places, especially around the backpacker area (Pham Ngu Lao) in District 1. Prices range from USD3-7/day; USD4 should get you a solid 100-110cc bike. Driving in large Vietnamese cities is for experienced drivers - the traffic is intense, and has its own rhythms and logic. Beware of thieves: always keep your motorbike in sight or parked with an attendant.
[edit] By cyclo

For many reasons, not least because of government attempts to restrict cyclos on busy urban streets, cyclos are disappearing. At around USD2/hour and because they are so slow, they can be a good choice for taking in the city - however in areas popular with tourists, they often try to overcharge, so bargain beforehand. They circulate around the central market and will immediately try to take you on a city tour the moment you are on board. Unless you fancy the novelty of a cyclo, a taxi will be quicker and just as cheap to anywhere you may want to go.
[edit] By bus

A big investment was recently made in public transit, and brand new bright green buses are everywhere - the tourist information office has route information. Cheaper and safer than many of the alternatives, the biggest problem is that when you get off the bus, you become a pedestrian (see below).
[edit] Walking

The streets, sidewalks, and outdoor markets are owned by the motorbikes, and not yet geared towards pedestrian traffic (although sidewalk clearing campaigns are now underway). Even though traffic is not as dense and chaotic as in, say, Bangkok, it's pretty scary for the average tourist. It consists mainly of motorcycles, (sometimes with up to five people including small children perched on them) and drivers tend to drive offensively (as opposed to defensively). Traffic flows in a continuous, noisy stream, and traffic signals appear to be largely "advisory". Crossing roads is therefore a challenge for Westerners used to traffic lights. The trick is to follow the Vietnamese - step confidently out into the road and cross at a slow but steady pace. Trust that the traffic will flow miraculously around you, and it (probably) will.

The traffic police occupy themselves with random roadside checks and do not bother the motorcyclists that are running red lights or driving on the sidewalks. The police recently announced a crackdown on pedestrians. This does NOT mean that they will hassle you; the most likely meaning of the crackdown is that you will be held responsible if you are involved in an accident.
[edit] See
Reunification Hall: the tank that ended the war
Reunification Hall: the tank that ended the war

* Reunification Hall, 106 Nguyen Du Street. Formerly South Vietnam's Presidential Palace, this is a restored five-floor time warp to the Sixties left largely untouched from the day before Saigon fell to the North. On April 30, 1975, the war ended when tank 843, now parked outside, crashed through the gate. Be sure to check out the impressively kitschy recreation room, featuring a circular sofa. You can also visit the war rooms in the basement and view a propaganda film recounting how the South Vietnamese lackeys and American imperialists succumbed to Ho Chi Minh's indomitable revolutionary forces. Entry 15000 dong; open daily 07:30-11:30, 13:00-16:00.

* War Remnants Museum, 28 Vo Van Tan Street. Formerly known as the Exhibition House of American War Crimes, and currently housed in a rather confused assemblage of warehouses, with new purpose-built premises under construction next door. This disturbing display of man's cruelty during the Vietnam (American) War includes halls full of gruesome photographs, a real guillotine, a simulated "tiger cage" prison and jars of deformed fetuses blamed on Agent Orange. The comic relief provided by a display on the evils of American rock music has sadly disappeared. Entry 10000 dong; open daily 07:30-11:45, 13:30-17:30. On Le Quy Don, just south of the museum, is a 2000 dong/cone soft ice cream vendor, a happy treat in a hot and hectic city.

* City Hall, end of Nguyen Hue Street. Originally called the Hôtel de Ville and now formally re-branded the People's Committee Hall, it's a striking cream and yellow French colonial building beautifully floodlit at night. No entry, but the statue of Uncle Ho in front is a very popular place for photos.

* Museum of Vietnamese History, at the top of Le Duan Street (just inside the zoo gates). The museum has a fine collection of Vietnamese antiquities, but unfortunately they are accompanied by signage which is both in poor English and full of risible Marxist distortions. Read up on Vietnamese history first or you'll have no idea what you're looking at. Outside, the Botanical Gardens are very nice and a good place for a cheap lunch away from the crowds. If you care about animal welfare, avoid the zoo.

* Notre Dame Cathedral, a French-built Catholic cathedral in the city centre (Dong Khoi, District 1) next to the Post Office. Free entry. Closes for lunch and at weekends, so check opening hours.

* Saigon River, the park in front of the Renaissance Hotel offers nice views of the river. Make sure you know how to cross the road before attempting to get there. Expect to encounter some beggars in the park.

[edit] Do

If you're in Saigon on a Sunday night, then beg, borrow, or rent a two-wheeled vehicle and join the throngs for di choi. It's basically a party on wheels, where everyone just rides through the downtown streets until the wee hours.

If the heat starts to get you down, there are several water parks where you can splash around to cool off. Close to the city centre in District 11 is Dam Sen Water Park; just north of the city in the Thu Duc District is Saigon Water Park; others are Water World in District 9, Ocean Water Park in District 7, and Dai The Gioi Water Park in District 5.

Galaxy Cinema at 116, Nguyen Du, District 1, is also a favourite among locals and bored tourists. They show up to date movies in a 4 screened cinema.

Visiting hair salons is also a must do for tourists, as Vietnamese are famous for it. Hair wash, manicure and pedicure cost no more than USD10. One nice place to go to is Vu Salon @ 210, Tran Quang Khai, District 1, within city limits.
[edit] Buy

* Ben Thanh Market, west end of Le Loi. Probably the largest, offering a wide spread of, well, pretty much everything from Ho Chi Minh T-shirts to cosmetics, diapers, pickled plums and live ducks. Popular with tourists, so prepare to haggle (your luck may vary with this, as 'fixed' prices are being introduced).

* Night market (just outside of Ben Thanh market). Here you can enjoy many kinds of different food and drink, and go round to do your shopping as well. Open from 17:00 (when the Ben Thanh market closes).

* Saigon Square, corner of Hai Ba Trung and Nguyen Du. Some of the former Russian Market stores have moved here. Very popular for hip, young people; you can find cheap watches, DVDs, T-shirts, jeans, shorts, slippers, etc, and there's a nice supper market in the middle of the square. Open 09:00-19:00.

* Tax Department Store, corner of Le Loi and Nguyen Hue. Formerly the Russian Market, this is now a rather sterile department store of sorts filled with stalls selling touristy kitsch, although the selections get better as you ascend the levels. There's a good supermarket on level 2. If you are traveling here by taxi, the new name may be met by blank expressions from taxi drivers. The old name seems to work.

[edit] Eat

You're spoiled for choice in Saigon, which offers the country's largest variety of Vietnamese and international food.
[edit] Budget

Food stalls are scattered all over the city, but there's a fair collection in the Ben Thanh market (see Buy).

Along Pham Ngu Lao there are many budget Westernised options, and venturing a bit further into the side alleys can uncover some better choices than on the main streets.

Hue beef noodles at Dong Ba, 110A Nguyen Du, Dist 1. This is a shop that sells Hue Food including Banh Beo, traditional rice cakes.
[edit] Mid-range

* Lemongrass, 4 Nguyen Thiep Street. A reliable if mildly touristy Vietnamese restaurant. Most dishes are in USD3-4 range, although some seafood items are expensive; try the weekly specials.

* Quan An Ngon, 138 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Street. A large but busy Vietnamese restaurant featuring the best regional specialties from around the country in the USD2-3 range. Set in an atmospheric old French villa that's handy for Reunification Palace too. Has been enthusiastically recommended by The New York Times.

* Quan Nuong, 29-31 Ton That Thiep. On the third floor (keep going till you reach the roof, there's a restaurant inbetween the bottom floor ice cream parlor and this restaurant), this BBQ restaurant is dangerously delicious. Try the bacon wrapped salmon & the beef wrapped cheese skewers - you grill it yourself at your table. Around USD3-5 per person. Come with your fighting mitts on Friday and Saturday nights, everyone for themselves when it comes to grabbing a table. Go downstairs to the first floor after for some ice cream delights at Fanny's.

* Ngoc Suong Marina,19C Le Quy Don, is a restaurant specializing in seafood. Try the fish salad and the clams cooked in white wine.

[edit] Splurge

* L'En tete, 1st floor, 139 Nguyen Thai Binh, Q.1 (at the junction with Calmette). Excellent French restaurant in a area not normally associated with high dining. Great for a leisurely dining experience, good food with main courses ranging from 150000-450000 dong. Open 17:00-midnight,

* Tân Nam, 60-62 Dong Du, Q.1 (a few doors down from Sheraton Saigon). The ground floor is open-air, the upper floor is air-con. Rather expensive and mediocre food, around USD10 per person but they will park your motorcycle while you eat, and wander around the waterfront.

* Temple Club, 29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q.1 (first floor, with an ice cream parlour below) has a 1930's ambiance with separate bar, restaurant, and lounge area sections. The food is fair but most people come to soak up the atmosphere.

[edit] Drink
[edit] Coffee shops

A cup of immensely strong black Vietnamese coffee (sweetened with sugar or condensed milk), cà phê sữa nóng, in a traditional Vietnamese café is an absolute must when in Saigon. The coffee is actually brewed in a little metal apparatus placed on your cup; just lift it off when it has cooled enough to touch (and hence drink).

During the summer months, the combination of high humidity and temperature may tempt tourists to try iced Vietnamese coffee (sweetened with sugar and/or condensed milk), cà phê sữa đá. All travel books recommend that you avoid beverages containing ice since the ice is created from local, impure water sources.

* Trung Nguyen [1] is the Vietnamese version of Starbucks, but with much better coffee. Figure on 10000 dong for a basic cuppa, although there are plenty of variations including the infamous weasel coffee (cà phê chồn), made from coffee beans collected from civet excrement. Two convenient outlets are east side of Nguyen Hue right before City Hall, and corner of Thu Khoa Huan and Ly Tu Trong.

* Givral Café, Dong Khoi (opposite Continental Hotel) is more in the French tradition, with fresh pastries, collared waiters and elaborate portions of ice cream. Well located, but over 20000 dong for the simplest cup.

* Hideaway Café, 41/1 Pham Ngoc Tach, Q.3 - as it's name implies, this place is hidden away and a good place to read, or have a quiet conversation or meal. Decent Western menu, although slightly pricey, is good. Free wi-fi.

* Sozo has two locations, including one in Pham Ngu Lao. Prices are reasonable, wi-fi is free, and all proceeds benefit needy Vietnamese families.

* Cine Café 116 Nguyen Du, inside the Galaxy Cinema complex - quiet ambience with views of the park.

* Chot Nho Cafe 189, Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan District. Reasonable price, good menu. 10 minutes by taxi from main city centre. Wi-fi is free

[edit] Bars and clubs

Saigon has plenty of places to drink, although to a certain degree Vietnamese and foreigners hang out in different places; however this is slowly changing as Westerners become more familiar with the ways of the East.

* Allez Boo, corner Pham Ngu Lao, De Tham. The definitive backpacker bar. Full to the brim with the just-off-the-boat/plane/bus crowd, but none the worse for it. Always busy and sometimes a good night out, although not cheap for the area. Stick to beer (which is cheap and available in large sizes), the mixed drinks are expensive and surprisingly weak.

* Apocalypse Now, 2C Thi Sach. Legendary and still packed on weekends, although aside from a few movie references it's not all that much to look at. Stays open late.

* Bottom Line, Ly Thu Trung. Cubby hole for the lost and lonely. Good sports coverage, OK food, and pleasant attractive staff.

* Carmen, 8, Ly Thu Trung. Fantastic latin music playing band. Drinks pricing on the upside though.

* Catwalk, at the side of New World Hotel. All in one place with a massage parlour, disco, KTV and a mini casino. Price is on the expensive side but it is a sight to behold.

* Eden, De Tham Street. Often busy, full of sporties, revellers, expats and others. Dark and deep and reasonably priced for the backpacker main drag.

* Go2 Go2 Go2, De Tham (Allez Boo's sister bar). Cheesey decor and chart music, but always jammed with backpackers on the asian circuit and numerous white dreads with acoustic guitars. Has wi-fi.

* Heart Of Darkness [2], 17b Le Thanh Ton. Based on the Cambodian equivalent, this is a friendly mid-range bar. Broadly a dance-centric "teacher-friendly" expat bar, but plays to all-comers.

* Ice Blue, Dong Khoi. Downtown English pub, complete with darts board and warm beer (if you want it that way!). Friendly, but shuts at midnight.

* Juice, claims to be Saigon's first juice bar (of course it wasn't, there were many local places before - but maybe it was the first Western-managed one). Food slipped recently, but still a nice place to hang out. Has wi-fi.

* Level 23, Sheraton Saigon 23F. The latest on the 5-star hotel drinking scene, with separate bar and nightclub, and great views over the city. A little soulless though, and very pricey with most drinks 80000 dong.

* Lush, Ly Tu Trong. Vietnam's first half-way decent night club. Hugely expensive, but musically about as good as it gets in this part of the world. Mixed crowd (Vietnamese, tourists and expats), pretty good food - but no dance floor. Lots of billiards/pool tables out back.

* Napoli, Pham Ngoc Tach. Located in a villa on the first floor (above an ice cream parlour). Good live music with a mixture of Vietnamese and English songs. The resident band must predate the reunification as they know all the old songs.

* Oblivion, Bui Vien. Late night venue with lots of character, claims to be Saigon's premier music bar and it's hard to argue - assuming, that is, you have a taste for non-chart buzzy British guitar and obscure dark US/European stuff. You have to ask for happy pop, though if you're spending enough it'll sometimes get an outing. Like most Saigon bars, it attracts its share of working girls. If you're not interested, simply say you're not and you'll be left alone.

* Polo, Ham Nghi Street (above the Liberty Hotel). Mixture of expats and locals, starts getting busy quite early. Reasonably priced food and drink, good music spanning from the Eighties to the present.

* Saigon Pho, this little hole in the wall is only a stone's throw from Allez Boo, but much more expat orientated. Open late.

* Saigon Saigon, Caravelle Hotel 9F, 12-13 Lam Son Square. A pleasant bar for a nightcap with good views; but get there early if you want to avoid the execrable house band.

* Shadow Bar, Mac Thi Bui. Expat bar, good place to wind down or up.

* The Tavern SB8-1 My Khanh 2 (H4-2) Nguyen Van Linh, Saigon South (Phu My Hung) tel: 4120866. Great place to enjoy a cold beer or a great "Western" meal - favourite dishes are fish'n'chips & bangers'n'mash. Reasonable prices and nice, friendly staff and management. Opens for breakfast, closes at midnight.

* Underground - more a food than a drink spot, though open for both. Sometimes busy with the business crowd, always packed with people enjoying the reasonably priced burgers, steaks and the like.

* Peaches Saigon South (Phu My Hung) . Great place to enjoy a few drinks with friends .Friendly staff , great food!!

[edit] Sleep

There are plenty of nice and cheap hotels available for tourists and also the high end names like Sheraton for the "business class" people. Do take note (especially lonely male travellers) that most hotels do not allow you to bring back a local female companion to stay overnight. Only exemptions are those seedier hotels mainly used for "other" businesses.
[edit] Budget

Area around Ben Thanh market along Le Thanh Ton and Ly Tu Trong has many reasonably priced hotels with clean rooms in the USD25-35 bracket; some provide free wi-fi.

* Ngoc Ha, 53, Le Anh Xuan. Close to Ben Thanh market and the New World Hotel. Clean and decent rooms, air-con, 'fridge, wi-fi in the lobby. Rooms USD25-35 including simple breakfast.

* Y Thien, 247 Ly Tu Trong; tel: (84-8) 824 8176. This full service hotel is 5 minutes from Ben Thanh Market and offers a range of rooms from tiny and windowless (yet functional) to quite nice with a full wall window overlooking the city and streets below (try the 4th floor room to the right of the elevator for USD20-25/night). Rooms are clean, bathrooms are large and recently upgraded (overkill on the shower remodeling). TV with cable, air-con, fan, 'fridge, elevator, all night guard for bikes, in hotel safe. If you don't want to stay in the backpacker area, and are willing to pay a little more, it's a good option.

Pham Ngu Lao in District 1 is the main backpacker hangout, just a short walk (10-15 minutes) from Ben Thanh Market.

* Hotel Bi Saigon, 185/26 Pham Ngu Lao (in alley #185) tel: 8360678 [3]. Not the cheapest hotel, with a "Superior" room for two costing USD27, but clean, comfortable and terrific staff. In-room Internet access is just USD3/day (bring your own laptop). The lobby houses the La Table De Saigon restaurant, great food and a perfect place to get a snack before heading out on the town.

* Nguyen Khang Hotel, 283/25 Pham Ngu Lao; tel: 8 373 566 nguyenkhanghotel@yahoo.com.vn - in a small alley that links Pham Ngu Lao and Do Quang Dau, along with several USD8-20 competitors of variable quality. This particular hotel has a nice vibe, kind staff, free Internet and free breakfast. Recently built (or remodeled), clean, tastefully simple in decoration, rooms have air-con, fan, 'fridge (and those at the front have nice large windows). USD15/day and under.

* Rainbow Hotel, 283/5 Pham Ngu Lao; tel: 8360039. Large bright (albeit somewhat worn) rooms, and those at the front have a nice view. Good value at 9 USD and under.

* The lanes and alleys in the area between Pham Ngu Lao and Bui Vien are jammed with 5-10 room mini-hotels offering prices around 6 USD. Don't be dismayed if every place seems full, you can be assured that vacancy is virtually unlimited at this price. Keep heading southwest away from the backpacker hustle closer Ng Thai Hoc, you'll likely find that as the alleys get smaller the rooms get quiter and owners more friendly.

[edit] Mid-range

Many of Saigon's historical hotels are in the hands of Saigontourist, the former state monopoly. Thanks to recent competition, service and facilities are adequate, although not quite up to modern standards; but if you want to experience a little colonial atmosphere, these remain far and away the best choices at the moment.

* Continental Hotel, 132-134 Dong Khoi Street, [4]. A perfectly located old-school colonial hotel dating back to 1880 and the setting of Graham Greene's The Quiet American (but not, alas, its filmatization). Lovely breakfast garden, huge rooms, nice balcony views and only slightly expensive at USD60 and up (taxes, service, breakfast included). On the minus side, there is no pool, and traffic noise can be irritating.

* Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue Boulevard, [5]. Ideally located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City, next door to the People's Committee Hall. Another old standby, former haunt of the press corps and site of the daily news briefing during the Vietnam War. The 5th floor beer garden (Rooftop Garden) is famous and its symbol, the golden crown, is rotating again. Slightly more expensive at USD70 and up, but the rooms are very pleasant. There's a swimming pool on the roof and an excellent buffet breakfast.

[edit] Splurge

Luxury hotels are popping up faster than mushrooms in the monsoon rains. Expect to pay closer to US$200 a night for any of these.

* Caravelle
* Hyatt.
* New World Saigon Hotel. Recently renovated, a single bedroom suite on the Executive Floor is US$250 including butler service, unlimited food/snacks/drinks during the day, and lavish buffet-style happy hour in the Executive Floor lounge every night. The nightly all-you-can-eat seafood buffet in the Park View Coffee Shop for USD20 is fantastic. On the downside, the rooms can be noisy as the windows are single pane and there is a busy street outside.
* Renaissance Riverside
* Sheraton Saigon. Complete with Prada shop in the arcade.
* Sofitel Plaza
* Hotel Majestic. 4 star hotel in District 1, at the waterfront at the end of Dong Khoi Street. It got its start in 1925, and though it has undergone a number of renovations since, it maintains the same basic look outside. Nice but expensive rooftop bar serving mediocre ice cream and drinks. Offers a non-smoking wing for those tired of smoke.

[edit] Get out

* Cu Chi Tunnels and boat trips on the Mekong Delta - the most popular excursion, and tirelessly advertised by countless agencies around the Pham Ngu Lao area

* Vung Tau - nearby city with great beaches, about 2 hours away by bus, or less by boat along the Saigon River ]]> Sun, 01 Jun 2008 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=694 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=5057 0 10.75 106.6666667 [edit] Understand
Dalat: "Le Petit Paris"
Dalat: "Le Petit Paris"
Dalat Countryside
Dalat Countryside

Dalat's high altitude (1500-2000 m) and fertile landscape make it one of Vietnam's premier agricultural areas. In fact, in markets as far north as Hanoi, vegetable and flower vendors will tout their "made in Dalat" produce.

Most guidebooks describe Dalat as a cheesy town popular only as a local honeymoon destination with tacky sites. The good news about that description is that the town is not over-run with tourists like some other cities in Vietnam. The bad news is that the description is not entirely untrue. There are tacky sites in Dalat where local honeymooners go to get their pictures taken by photographers, but Dalat is surrounded by some of the best mountain biking, hiking and canyoning opportunities in Vietnam.
[edit] Get in

Most local and foreign travellers arrive in Dalat by bus, particularly on the famous Sinh Cafe Hanoi-HCMC bus route. From Nha Trang, the bus ride is about 5 hours, with the obligatory stop at a dilapidated Chaam temple/tourist site. From Ho Chi Minh City, the bus ride is also about 5 hours.
[edit] Get around

Depending on where you stay, you can walk to most parts around town. You can catch a Xe Om (motorbike taxi) from most corners, so if you're going somewhere farther out of town, you have a fast way to get there.

You can also rent a motorbike by the day.

Alternatively, see the Do | "Easy Riders" section, below.
[edit] See

* Ho Xuan Huong aka Xuan Huong lake, center of town. Open daily, all hours. No admission fee but rental fees vary if you want to boat. Approximately 5km in diameter, this lake was made after two dams on the Camly river were destroyed during a storm in the 1930s. Now, Xuan Huong lake is one of the main draws of Da Lat, and you can see honeymooners and locals strolling its banks. Many nice hotels have a view of the lake.

* Thung Lung Tinh Yeu aka Valley of Love, Phu Duong Thien Vong street. Open daily until 5PM. Admission fee under USD1. About 5km outside of town, the Valley of Love is common stop on Dalat tours and is very popular with honeymooners. The Valley of Love is also a great spot for canyoning. See contact info below for canyoning operators.

* Lake of Sorrow or Lake of Sighs, 5km northeast of town on Ho Xuan Huong road. Admission fee under USD1. The Lake of Sorrow is another common destination in Dalat. The Lake of Sorrow is so-named because of a tale of two lovers, one who committed suicide after the other was called up to serve in the army. The exact tale changes depending on the age and gender of the storyteller!

* Tuyen Lam Lake, 5km south of town on highway 20. Its clean green waters flow from the beautiful Tia Spring and from the Da Tam River, which flows down from Voi mountain. Its waters stretch over an immense 350 hectares and because of its various sources, Tuyen Lam is known as the lake where rivers, springs and forests meet. The lake was built in the 80s. It is one of the largest and most beautiful lakes in town. The other side of the lake is the Voi mountain which is a good place for hiking.

* Prenn Falls, At the foot of Prenn Pass, about 10km outside of town. Open daily until 5PM. Admission fee under USD1. A very common stop on a typical Dalat tour, Prenn Falls is quite beautiful but is a lot more fun when you're hiking it than just taking pictures of it.

* Pongour Falls, 30km south of town on highway 20.

[edit] Do
Touring Central Highlands with the Easy Riders
Touring Central Highlands with the Easy Riders

* Easy Riders [1] (a motorbike and driver/guide) is a great way for a non-motorcyclist to tour the central highlands, providing access to places you would otherwise never know about. They speak good English, are from local villages, seemingly know everyone, and will probably find you before you find them. You will know the driver is legit when you are presented with a book, full of praise from other excited tourists. From about USD20/person for an 8 hour tour, up to USD60/day for long distance multi-day trips, often including accommodation.

* Outdoor Adventures, 32 Truong Cong Dinh , phone - 063-832221, fax - 063-510965, cell - 0918593311 tnkdalat@vnn.vn website runs trips daily with extended trips outside Dalat also available. Combines American technology and safety methods with local knowledge of trails and communities to deliver an outstanding adventure experience. Hike the highlands, making your way across sketchy bridges, to meet hill tribes that barely experience foreigners. Or, canyon the Valley of Love and enjoy the stunned faces of honeymooners as you pass with climbing gear over your shoulder. And, best of all, bike through coffee farms to Bao Dai palace or to the Bamboo forest and enjoy stunning views of Da Lat's many lakes and rivers.

[edit] Buy

There aren't a lot of handicrafts for purchase here in Da Lat.This is mostly because Dalat is not heavily touristed, so items on sale are for locals and Vietnamese honeymooners. However, Dalat is famous for its beautifully crafted silk embroidered pictures, which can be purchased at a massive mark up from the many galleries around Dalat or at a fraction of the price from the central Dalat market.

Dalat also has an abundance of fruit, vegetables and flows available for purchase if you plan to stay for a few days and want to liven up your hotel room or cook your own meals.
[edit] Eat

* Central Market / Cho Dalat, center of town. Open daily until early evening. Given its breadbasket status, Dalat's Central Market place is the best place in town to eat fresh fruits and vegetables. Near the entrance, there is a lively and always busy vegetable restaurant that serves excellent soups. A tiny vegetarian food stall is located in a corner of the second level.

* Golf Course Pro Shop, open daily until about 8PM. If you are craving quesidillas and haven't had Mexican in the months you've backpacked through Asia, you will find what you're looking for at the Pro Shop. It's little bit out of the way, but the quesidillas, chips and guacamole are excellent. And, the beer is always cold.

* Da Quy / Wild Sunflower Restaurant (49 Truong Cong Dinh) offers very high-quality French & Vietnamese cuisine at reasonable prices.

* Peace Café next to Peace Hotel 1 offers some of the cheapest (and tastiest) eats in Dalat.

[edit] Drink

* Larry's Bar, 12 Tran Phu (at the basement of the Sofitel Dalat Palace Hotel). Open every night. The Sofitel Dalat Palace was championed/refurbished by Larry Hillblom, (also infamous for his lascivious proclivities for very young SE Asian/Pacific Island women), who saved the palace from obscurity and demolition and who also happened to have lots of American dollars to spend as one of the founders of DHL. Hillblom died just days after the hotel re-opened in 1995. Larry's Bar pays homage to Larry's Brit(?) (Born in Kingsburg, California) background. Library-style with dark wood paneling, darts and lots of good beer and nuts available. Interesting place to relax after a day of biking or hiking.

[edit] Sleep

Accommodation in Dalat is very reasonable in the 'off-season', for as little as USD4 per night for a perfectly presentable hotel room with double bed and ensuite.

* Hoa Binh 1 Hotel, also known as Peace Hotel 1, is anything but peaceful, and fills to capacity on weekends. But staff are friendly, rooms are available from USD4/night, and there is a cafe next door.

* Sofitel Dalat Palace Hotel [2]

[edit] Get out

There are various travel agencies in the town that can book buses to all parts of the country. ]]> Sun, 01 Jun 2008 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=694 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=5056 0 11.9333333 108.4166667 Sun, 01 Jun 2008 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=694 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=5055 0 11.9 109.2166667 Nha Trang Bay
Nha Trang Bay
[edit] Understand

Traces of human settlement date back to the Cham-Empire, though in times of Vietnamese rule there hasn’t been much more than small fishing villages. The French recognized quickly that this beautiful bay on the south central coast with its islands and white sand beaches makes up for perfect bathing and developed. The famous franco-swiss physician Alexandre Yersin spent most of his life here, too.

Today, Nha Trang is a buzzing modern city with high quality tourist facilities and the place to go if you want to do some scuba diving or snorkelling. Most of the tourist infrastructure is in the southern part of town around Biet Thu, whereas the life of the inhabitant is centered around the Cho Dam in the northern quarters. The corniche of Tran Phu is the backbone of the city, being accompanied by a beautiful promenade and the pristine beach.

The place is, unfortunetly, far more tawdy than other beach towns- it's beautiful, but if getting drunk with backpackers every night isn't your scene, you might want to look elsewhere.
[edit] Get in
[edit] By plane

The new airport is located some 20 km south of the city and serves only domestic destinations.

Taxi fare from the airport to downtown locations is about 170,000 dong, though many hotels have their own buses.
[edit] By train

Nha Trang is a stop on the main railway-line connecting Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). The railway station is close to the cathedral in the northern part of town. If you want a soft-sleeper (the highest class available on Vietnamese trains), book your train ticket directly at the train station as far in advance as you are able. Having a private travel agent book this ticket will quite often result in you paying the agent for a Soft-sleeper, the agent will book a hard-sleeper and you will not know until you board the train and it is too late to make changes. This is one of the most common scams in Vietnam!
[edit] By bus

Open Tour-buses usually drop you in the main tourist area around Bien Thu, while the public bus station is at 58, 23 Thang 10, about 10min walk west of the center.
[edit] Get around

Nha Trang has a reliable and easy to navigate public bus system, where the ticket fare does not exceed 2000 dong for a ride on a modern, air-conditioned bus with Vietnamese music. You will find buses nr. 3 and 2 the most useful, since they pass through the southern quarters. Alternatively you'll find the usual selection of taxis, cyclos and Xe Om. There is no place in Nha Trang that justifies a fare higher 20,000 dong/person.
[edit] See

* The Alexandre Yersin Museum, northern end of Tran Phu, on the grounds of the Pasteur institute. Mon-Fri 7-11.15am &2-4.30pm, sat 2-4.30pm, 26,000 dong has a small but very informative display about the adventurous life of the man who discovered the germ that causes the black plague, established Dalat as a hillside-retreat for the French colonists and ventured, besides being a doctor, into every field of science that was accessible to him.

[edit] Do

* Scuba diving and snorkelling are offered by several outfitters. Apparently prices for certified courses and the like are some of the lowest in the world. A morning on the boat, snorkelling over the reef, is about USD 12, while you can do the diving trip for ~ USD 30.

Sure Prices in Vietnam for diving are cheap but please do not look just for the best price, make sure you dive with a dive operator who has all the proper saftey equipment and insurances. You can also pay top dollar for your diving in Nha Trang through some of the more respecable operations,

Rainbow Diversoffer high standards of saftey and professional service, there are many dive centres in Nha Trang but Rainbow seems to have the highest profile. Daily dives and courses for all levels. Blue Diving Club is another PADI 5 Star Instructor Development Center in Nha Trang. All PADI courses available !
[edit] Work

An excellent way to get to know and understand more of the country is to do some voluntary work. There are several organisaitons such as Travel to Teachand i-to-i that arrange work for international volunteers in Vietnam and other countries in the region.

In Nha Trang Travel to Teach works with a project teaching English and Computers too the kids that sleeps on the beach.

i-to-i offers volunteers the opportunity to work on a variety of projects across Vietnam including building homes in Ho Chi Minh City and teaching english in Hanoi.
[edit] Buy

* There is a guitar-workshop selling decent instruments starting from USD 25. Most of the cheaper ones are not manufactured meticulously enough to even make them tuneable.

[edit] Eat

Nha Trang has variety of local resturants, western resturants and cheap street stalls
[edit] Budget

Cheap street stalls will offer a dish of rice, pork steak and some vegs for about 10,000 dong. Local resturants offer all kind of common soups such as the ubiquitous Pho Bo (beef noodle) for 5,000-15,000 dong.

On Nguyen Thi Minh Khai just west of Hung Vuong there is a soft ice cream shop not to be missed, a mere 2000 dong gets you a small cone.
[edit] Mid-range

For paying a bit more than a Dollar per dish, you can spoil yourself with anything between Sushi and Pizza
[edit] Splurge
[edit] Drink

If you are in for some night-life, most clubs are on Biet Thu.

* Kim's Bar is run by a woman who is an anti-pedophilic activist, providing a future for street children to keep them from being sold to the western sex-tourists.
* Sailing Club is a slightly posh establishment on the beach front south of the intersection with Biet Thu, sporting a dancefloor and 12 (twelve) speakers to pump up the jam. Lean back in your bamboo-chair on a starry tropical night on the big terrace and sip your favourite poison, if you where lucky enough to catch a seat.
* Pete's Bia Hoi. A quaint but cheap bia hoi (draft beer) joint located 2 blocks back from the Nha Trang Sailing Club and has excelent beer at "very cheap very vietnam" prices. 2 litres of ice cold San Miguel are available for 2000vnd. however smaller measurements are also available at equally priced offerings. He also has a small menu of snacks available at a reasonable price, his deep fried cauliflower and deep fried mushrooms are very good.

[edit] Sleep

Accommodation is abundant in Nha Trang, and they are still building... Most hotels catering for foreigners are in the area around Biet Thu, but be sure to walk north into the side lanes if you want to cut down on prices and avoid the noisy traffic. You should be able to find a decent clean room with fan for ~USD 4, with air-con ~USD 8. (Prices for double room)
[edit] Budget

* Hoàng Châu Hotel, 6 Tôn Dản, T 058-524066 is a small Vietnamese-run place in a quiet dead-end street off Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. Works on a construction site for yet another big hotel between here and the seafront seem to be suspended in the moment, which is why the balconies of the frontal rooms offer perfect seaview. (USD 8 with air-con, local TV, hot shower)
* Quang Minh Hotel. Newly-constructed, a three-minute walk from the beach and offers rooms from $6/night, including satellite TV, hot water and refrigerator.

[edit] Mid-range

* Bao Dai Villa. The private villa of Vietnam's last emperor, Bao Dai. The villa is a little way from "downtown" Nha Trang and is somewhat secluded. Regular rooms go for about 30 USD and large suites go for 75 USD. Enjoy one of the best views and best food from the Bao Dai Restaurant which overlooks the ocean.

[edit] Splurge
[edit] Contact

Internet access can be found in many hotels and through cheap internet cafes all over town. The farther away from Bien Thu, the cheaper the rates (3000 dong/hour is the going rate at most places, although cheaper can be found). Expect fair ADSL connections.
[edit] Stay safe

Thefts on the beaches of Nha Trang are sadly very common. Never leave your bag unguarded. Be aware of girl gangs at night. They are acting as if they are prostitutes in fact they steal your money.
[edit] Cope
[edit] Get out
[edit] The Islands

Tour operators offer boat tours to the surrounding islands for around $7USD, that usually include such funny things as a on-board fruit buffet or the "swimming bar", where you float in a circular swimming aid and try your hardest to get drunk. There are more serious approaches to it, so shop around for the flavour you want it to have.

* Do not use the "Tam Hanh Travel" agency at 3L Hung Vong, they will overcharge you, purchase false tickets, and lie to cover their tracks. There are many other reputable agencies in Nha Trang that you would be far better off using.

[edit] Other Beaches

About 30 km north of Nha Trang, just when you passed through the village of Ninh Hoa, a peninsula juts out into the South Chinese Sea, and on its northern coast rides its tinier brother, Hon Khoi. Several resorts are located on the eastern beach of Hon Khoi, where you find palmtrees, white sand and turquoise waters. To get there follow the highway north past the turnoff to Dac Lac Province/Buon Ma Thuot. Then look out for a sign reading Doc Let-Resort, close to a filling station. A taxi will take 2 persons for about 200,000 dong, while a Xe Om should not be more expensive than 100,000 dong. Or catch a through-bus plying highway Nr.1 and jump off at the turn off. There will always be some motorbike-drivers waiting to take you. Whatever place you choose to go, be sure to reserve a bungalow in advance.

* Doc Let Beach Resort, sign-posted, 058-849663,Fx849506, is the best known place and closest to the mainland. Though it started out as a traveller's secret, it quickly became a destination for domestic tourists, who basically flood the place during weekends and holidays. There is some socialist charm to the not so "white palm beach turquoise waters"-like architecture of the place, but it's definitely not the old Robinson-feeling you might be craving.
* Paradise Resort, Nha Nhi Thien Duong, follow the signs from Doc Let-Resort through Dong Hai-village, is run by an elderly gentleman and his Vietnamese family. Bungalows are USD 16-18 (11-14 for a single person), depending on if they are close to the beach or not. Newer and nicer bungalows for USD18 are being constructed just next to the main compound. Meals are included, and prices for drinks are reasonable. Water, fruits, coffee and tea are free. 0084-58-670480, fx:0084-58-670479, paradise_doclech@hotmail.com, http://www.vngold.com/doclet/paradise.
* Jungle Beach 091-3429144,syl@dng.vnn.vn is reportedly slightly more upmarket, with prices being USD 15 per person, even if you sleep on the beach. Run by a Canadian-Vietnamese couple, food's included, and it's the most remote of the resorts here. ]]> Sun, 01 Jun 2008 00:00:00 GMT http://www.blogabond.com/TripView.aspx?tripID=694 http://www.blogabond.com/CommentView.aspx?commentID=5054 0 12.25 109.1833333