Now, I strike out on my own again for a breif stint in Chandigarh before continuing onto Rishikesh for ten days or so.

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Chandigarh is one of the only master-planned cities in India. The contrast is striking. The city was apparently laid out by a pretty famous French guy. The streets lie in a grid pattern, intersected by roundabouts. Almost all of the roads are lined with large shady trees and bike/foot paths. I've hired a couple of bicycle rickshaws to take a tour of the place, and I really dig it. It is so refreshing to ride off of the crowded and dirty street, enjoying the relative calm and coolness of the bike path. That said, it is seriously hot in Chandigarh right now. Somehow, the locals don't seem to bothered by the stifling heat, and I feel like I'm the only one who is dripping with sweat. The disparity of temperature between here and Ladakh is shocking.

I visited the "Rock Garden", which was created by a local artist named Nek Chand, starting in the early 1980's. Unlike it's master planned host city, the garden is a sort of maze of sculptures winding randomly through a park, under the canopy of an urban eucalyptus forest. All of the materials are recycled and manipulated industrial waste, including broken toilets, steel barrels, flower pots, and cement beams. Integrated with this recycled waste are twisting tree branches, lotus ponds, high rock walls, and miniature temple-like structures. Apparently the artist began the project as a hobby while he was working as a road inspector for the city. Today, the Rock Garden is visited and appreciated by huge numbers of art lovers from across the globe.

Bicycle riskshaws in Chandigarh are one of the very finest places I've found to simply watch India happen. You'll silently and slowly pass a man getting a shave under a tree, a woman and her three children sprawled out on a blanket in some abandoned parking lot, another rickshaw carrying a motorcycle (very impressive), or a man sitting cross-legged on a wooden platform with two wheels being pulled by a mule down the street. And cows, of course.

I've traveled to many other places and often thought about how much change has recently occured or is bound to happen soon. Somehow, India is different. I think the way of life here for most people has been, and will continue to be, relatively the same for several generations. While I'm a proponent of progress, part of me hopes there will still be mule carts and cows in the streets in another fifty years. I intend to come back then to find out!

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Ancient Native American tribes (specifically the Pueblo Nation) were convinced that without the performance of their sacred rituals, the sun might not continue to rise each day. On the one hand, this makes me wonder if all of mankind has always created some activity or another to legitimize or give validity to their existence. I guess we're all looking for a cause to believe in, something with a deeper connection. Life has meaning if there is some action we can take for the greater good. What if the "sustainability movement" is just humankind's current manifestation of that Pueblo act of helping the sun to rise each day? Maybe we don't need to do anything at all, and life on Earth will go on as it will, with or without my effort or that of the Pueblo people. The idea that we don't actually need to DO anything is a very scary prospect for most. What if the sun doesn't actually need the Pueblo people to help it to rise? What if the Earth isn't actually all that interested in the activities of humans today? That would deflate the spirit of revolution to "save our planet" or "make the sun rise". Perhaps things are going to happen as they happen, regardless of our individual interest in a certain outcome. In this case, I guess we are just left to live free and prosper, like every other species. Life seems pretty straightforward if all we have to do is survive.

This thought pattern could make one feel somewhat hopeless. Then again, some Buddhist masters say that finding hopelessness is the first genuine step on the path to liberation. Is there really that much difference between the "primitive superstition" of the Pueblo people and the mental games we play with ourselves now to justify our actions and our existence? Some people still pray to a (the) higher Being today, believing that their prayers might be answered according to their efforts. Others work to cultivate the God within. Still others choose a path of agnosticism or atheism, deciding that it either doesn't particularly matter, or that this single lifetime is quite enough to keep them busy and content. I say all paths are valid. It is the fruit they bear in individuals' lives that matters. Peace, Love, and Joy are three of my favorite fruits. That's the game of life, and whoever has the most good fruit is the winner. There is an unending cornicopia of possibility.

written by  Katy and Mark Lewis on June 28, 2009 from Chandigarh, India
from the travel blog: India and Nepal
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Every cell in my body is born, serves its function, and dies. During it's lifetime, each cell remains unaware that it exists within a larger common entity, called "Mark". LIkewise, every person is born, lives a life, and dies. Most of us remain completely unaware that each of us exists within a larger common entity, called "Earth" or "Nature". Personal experience and continued awareness of this fact is the path to peace and freedom. We must remember, as Krishnamurti often liked to say, that "the observer is the observed".

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I just had a chai and a smoke with an elderly Indian man who pulled me aside on a crowded street in the Rishikesh market. I recognized his intellect at once, and he explained about how he was diagnosed with schizophrenia, and the myriad challenges he has encountered in life. I was struck by how fragile the balance is in our minds.

He ended up being the only Indian I have met thus far who agreed with my viewpoint that having one family more or less in power since the independence of the country isn't particularly democratic. Like many others I've spoken with, he likened the situation to that of the Kennedy dynasty in the U.S. But, he then proceeded to point out the legitimate reasons why Caroline Kennedy wasn't able to muster a run for the NY Senate seat, and I was flabbergasted. That's the exact argument I've been using. This man looks like the quintessential "average" Indian, but proved to be much much more. It is unlikely encounters such as this one that has formed my very high opinion of the Indian people.

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I'm staying with a wonderful family here in Rishikesh. It is nice to sit on my front porch and watch the comings and goings of mom, dad, their three beautiful daughters and two sons, the dog, or one of the two cows (who also roam the nearby crowded streets). It has been very hot here, so the excitement was pointed yesterday when the first rains of this year's monsoon arrived in the afternoon. When it rains during the Indian monsoon, it really rains. The moisture came down in slanted sheets, blown about by the strong accompanying winds. The cooling effect was most welcome after several days of constant sweating. Apparently the monsoon arrives into Rishikesh, like clockwork, just about this exact day every year. How will climate change alter this pattern? What will be the effect on the crops and the economy in this area? Like the mind of the schizophrenic man that I met, our Earth also hangs in a fragile and beautiful balance. We're compromising that balance.

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The past couple of mornings, I've been attending meditation sessions at an Osho center. Osho was a very famous spiritual teacher who pioneered many new meditation techniques designed specifically for the modern/Western mind that is accustomed to a fast pace and lots of noise. So, it is very different from the silent sitting meditation I've been doing (Vipassana). This morning we did "laughing meditation", which was, well, hilarious. This technique comes from the Japanese Buddhist tradition. Osho also incorporates techniques from Hinduism, Sufism, Gurdjieff, and others. Kundalini (chakra) yoga, sound therapy, and Tibetan Nadabrahma meditation are others I've sampled and enjoyed while here. It has been most helpful in helping me to BE more in my body, and not only in my mind. And, to further recognize the relationship between the two.

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In the afternoons, I've linked up with an awesome personal yoga teacher. His name is Ravi Yogi, and we practice for a couple of hours each day. On my final day here, we'll travel together to meet Ravi's "guru" or "master". He describes his master has a "perfect Sadhu", meaning he has attained full liberation/consciousness, complete alignment with the Creator. Needless to say, I'm very curious and excited. This will happen on the Fourth of July, and I definitely anticipate some fireworks. Ravi describes that his guru lives in a treehouse of sorts in the jungle, completely alone, and in complete harmony with the tigers, leopards, snakes, monkeys, insects, trees, plants, etc. He is 79 years old, and has spent the last fifteen years preparing to go into the high Himalayas where he will live in the snow with the most meagre provisions. He is a modern day ascetic.

It is funny how I stumbled into this situation, and we'll see where the path leads from here. I'm both open and somewhat skeptical, but if this Sadhu actually happens to be God incarnate, I'm not sure I'll be able to recognize the fact. A real life Buddha, perhaps the rarest of all creatures on this Earth. Would you even know if one passed you on the street?

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I'm beginning to see the same theme in what I'm reading in a number of different books from Jung, Brunton, Krishnamurti, Osho, and Trungpa. It can be called the "Conscious", the "Overself", the "Observer", the "Mind", the "Great Spirit", among many other misleading names. They all contain the message that the ultimate answers lie within; that there is a higher Mind that, if we become aware of It, is perfectly aligned with all things in all of space and time. This is what I've been calling "Nature", and could also be called "God". It is fascinating that the very best in Western pschology (from Jung) only begins to approach discovering the secrets of the mind which have been revealed among yogis and sadhus and buddhas for millenia in the East. The books I'm reading by James George and Paul Brunton do a brilliant job of relating some of this Eastern wisdom to a Western frame of mind. It is all about knowing thyself. Self-mastery.

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I read in the newspaper today that India has grown by 700 million people (roughly twice the entire U.S. population) in the last 35 years. That is what I read. If this is true, and we continue on this path of growth as humans, we're sure to wipe ourselves out as a species. Perhaps this is our destined course, as Nature would have it, to restore Her health from this homo sapien cancer. If this isn't our desired course as a species, it is time, now, to evolve to a higher Being.

Last week, when 221 members of the U.S. House of Rep. vote against putting a price mechanism on the emission of carbon into the atmosphere, I wonder if there is any hope at all. Most of these Congressmen are still finding ways to reason around the scientific fact that humans are changing the natural atmospheric process. They do this because their interests (and the interests of their constituencies) are not preserved or furthered in the prospect of an entirely different economic system that factors in the price of pollution into our market decisions. Indeed, most of industry (particularly big industry)today would not benefit from this potential market shift. Sooner or later, as we continue along our current course, we'll hit a tipping point where enough people will demand a new system. It probably won't all happen at once, and in fact, many people are effectively already living in this new economy that is ready to pay for pollution.

The reaction in India to the passage of the climate bill in the House was that it will harm the Indian economy because taxes/tarrifs would increase for everything that they ship to the U.S. This is because there is a clause in the House bill (which will hopefully be omitted from the Senate version) that sets an additional import tariff only on countries that have not signed an international treaty pledging to reduce their own carbon emissions. Of course, China and India have been arguing that only developed nations which have been contributing to the problem of climate change for many decades should bear the cost of fixing the problem. They view any international climate treaty as a ploy by the U.S. to prevent China and India from becoming the new world superpowers. Needless to say, if the U.S. were to take radical action to reduce emissions, and China and India stay on their current course of economic development, our efforts will be more than nullified. So, the big showdown will be in December in Copenhagen, regardless of what happens to the current version of the House climate bill. This is a global issue. That said, the U.S. must take the lead in bringing about a new era of climate responsibility. It just so happens that the largest and most powerful industries in India and China are some of the dirtiest. This is going to be a fight. Perhaps the biggest fight mankind has ever seen. The "freedom fighters" of our generation will have to warriors of simplicity, spirituality, and sustainability. I've met many Indians who are already living in accordance with this global movement. Now, we just need to find some leadership...

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How do you start an organization that helps people to consume less and better by finding contentment and satisfaction from within instead of constantly searching without? The economic proposition: Save money by spending less. The spiritual proposition: Instead of throwing money and consumption into the personal void within, seek peace and satisfaction thru simple living and connection to Nature/the Overself/Great Spirit/God. We'll consume through every last resource on this planet and still not realize whatever it is we're after. What we're really after is beyond the consumptive ability of our body or our mind. We must rise above the desires of the body and the mind to a higher conciousness. You cannot consume your way to the satisfaction of the soul. What are we really after when we buy our third car? Happiness? Status? Who has more happiness or higher status than an enlightened person? We must recognize that our activity of profligate consumption has no endgame. That is exactly what makes it so unquenchable and so destructive. How do you start a business that sells to people's soul? The soul is not for sale. No commodity can cater to it. This would require an entirely new type of economy. Putting a price on pollution would be a good start.

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A quote from James George: "Can we change ourselves? Can we wake up? Or is all this talk of 'awakening' a romantic dream? The answer depends in large part on your point of view. If you are stuck with the common view that 'you can't change human nature', then you probably can't, since you assume this to be true. If you think that such a change is easily within your grasp, you will also likely be disappointed in due course, because it is not easy. But if you take a look at the great leaps that have already occurred in human evolution and human consciousness, from the African savannah, through the hunter gatherers to the agricultural settlements and on to our own times, there seems to be no reason to doubt that we are an unfinished species, endowed with some degree of free-will, and therefore with contradictory capacities for both self-destructive behavior and for extraordinary breakthroughs of creative energy and intelligence. As the present expression of this contradiction, humanity seems to be at the most crucial crossroads of its long history: we have the power to make the planet uninhabitable, and we also have the potential for a New Renaissance that would be not only sustainable but would begin to use the 80 percent of our forebrain that we seem not yet able to use today...This means that, if we awaken to the realization that we have to change, we will find that we have the capacity to go beyond what we thought were our limits, as individuals and as a species. If we must, we can. And now, if we can, we must. It is not for us to know the Master Plan...but this just might be it."

written by  Katy and Mark Lewis on July 2, 2009 from Rishikesh, India
from the travel blog: India and Nepal
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On the morning of the Fourth of July, Ravi and I set off from Ram Jhoola toward the dwelling place of Ravi's spiritual master. After journeying for perhaps half an hour on a footpath into the jungle, we reached our destination. The guru looked about like you'd expect an Indian ascetic to look: He wore tattered traditional orange garmets, had an impressive white beard, dreaded hair, dark skin, thin frame, very tough feet, and a radiating smile. His gestures were perfectly humble, and he began speaking with his eyes closed, at least until he hit his stride with the message, at which time he could become wonderfully animated. He explained about the number of potential dangers of living in this jungle, including: scorpions, pythons, leopards, tigers, and elephants. Ravi translated that all of the animals and plants in the area were in communication with the guru, and this entire place received benefit from the guru's chanting and meditation.

His dwelling is in a tree. There is a dead tree very near, where the master lived previously until the tree told him that it wanted liberation. He then moved to his current tree a couple of decades ago. There is a thin bamboo ladder at the base that leads to a small platform about fifteen feet off the ground. This is where the guru does his meditation. Fifteen feet higher lies another small platform that is covered with a meagre tarp, where he reads and sleeps. On the opposite side of the base of the tree from the ladder, there is a very simple kitchen consisting of a few pots and pans and three bricks forming a stove.

The entire time we were there, a cooling breeze I haven't felt anywhere else in Rishikesh was always present, making the climate quite pleasant. I asked the master whether he prayed to/worshiped an external God, or if he was cultivating the Divine within himself. He replied that both are very important. Meditation is a time to sit and go completely inward, eventually discovering the higher consciousness within each and every one of us, a Truth that is beyond the mind, beyond the body, and cannot be explained, but only experienced through purifying your lifestyle and putting noble effort and concentration into your meditation practice. He also worships outwardly through mantras which he recites, in an effort to bow humbly before the supreme Creator. He very calmly explained that all faith traditions ultimately point in the same direction, with different ways of trying to get there.

We then spoke about my life, and my conviction to work toward restoring a harmonious connection between humans and our Earth. Ravi translated the guru's response: "Reduce your demand, take only what you need. Why are people so concerned with making money to preserve for their grandchildren, when so many humans are starving and suffering today? Once the rich man's grandchildren are born, they have bad karma on their head from all of those who suffered for two generations at the lack of resources available to them because they were saved for two generations. Do not live constantly looking to the future. The only place to really, truly BE is in the here and now."

Perhaps the biggest takeaway for me from this amazing experience was to realize that each of us already has a guru traveling around with us all the time. It is that source, deep within, that allows us to see beauty in a sunset, a painting, a song, or a child. It is that intangible voice that tells us right from wrong. You could call it your "conscience". You could just as easily call it your "guru" or "master". Whatever it is called, we all know what it is. We need to start listening to it's every utterance.

The other overwhelming lesson for me was to observe, first hand, how this master lived. He very well may be the most accomplished, smart, highest achieving person that I've had the pleasure of meeting. He has mastered himself, and thus, life. From all options available to him, he has decided to live a life of complete simplicity with overflowing service to his community. This is my hero, not Michael Jackson.

Before departing, I touched his feet and received a blessing. I was reminded of the Biblical story of the woman who washed and put oil on the feet of Jesus after he had made a long journey through the desert. That would be my greatest honor.

Oh, and I almost forgot to mention that the guru pulled out an antique radio at one point, which we listened to for a little while. I'll never forget the circumstances of when and where I learned that it will be Federer versus Roddick in the 2009 Wimbledon final!

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Stay in the flow, let yourself go. Leave yourself, to become. Where do you go without the ego? Straight into reality, through the door of compassion. It is the only place to be, just be. I've heard some people call this place, "oblivion". They have never been here. Solidify the ego, only to dissolve it into pure consciousness. Allow the ego to grow to that of a King. Then you can enter into a humility that is beyond. Discovering that even the wealthiest and most powerful King is not the highest being, we move beyond materialism, beyond the self, and into pure altruistic service to the Most High. It is possible to expect nothing in return only when you realize that you already have absolutely everything, without a single fear or desire. In this state, there is true altruism, and Ayn Rand was wrong. To pursue this path, your own best interests will be served. But, to complete this journey, to realize the endgame, one must forfeit the self completely, entering into the abyss. Only the empty can be filled up. Only those who know what they're missing can ever hope to find it. So, whenever the flute plays, sway, like the trees in the breeze.

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Is man indispensible for the completion of creation? Or at least for the preservation of his own kind? C.G. Jung says: "Human consciousness created objective existence and meaning, and man found his indispensible place in the great chain of being." In his fantastic final book, Memories, Dreams, Reflections, Jung also recounts his relationship with Sigmund Freud, whom he says was filled with "bitterness". Like Freud, many giant intellectuals allow the exclusive use of the rational mind to lead them to a very dark place in their lives (Neitzche and Rand also come to mind). Perhaps we really do need some "myth" to legitimize our lives, like the Pueblo Indians' ceremony to the sun. There is myth and mysticism in every world religion and spiritual tradition. Instead of mocking the Pueblo for their "primitive superstition", perhaps we should admire their sense of purpose as well as their daily act of reverence for the source of all life. I'd much rather be a mystic than an intellectual. It is in this spirit that I intend to move forward and thrive.

I've grown very fond of the Hindu mythology that my yoga instructor has been sharing with me during our classes. You might say that some Hindus take a literal translation of these myths, while others take a more symbolic interpretation. The same could surely be said of the ancient Greeks or modern day Christians. The myth I'm choosing to believe in our time is a great story of how human beings are causing the climate to change and must discover a more harmonious way of life to ensure our survival as a species. At least some of us need to take a literal translation of that modern day myth!

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Tomorrow I set off for the final leg of the trip, traveling to Delhi to catch an airplane to the little-known country of Bhutan. I'll try to update the blog again in a week or so...

written by  Katy and Mark Lewis on July 4, 2009 from Rishikesh, India
from the travel blog: India and Nepal
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-------GNH-------

I was initially attracted to traveling to Bhutan to learn more about their alternative method of measuring "progress" in the country. They do not adhere to the traditional economic metric of Gross Domestic Product (GDP), but have instead developed their own system, called Gross National Happiness (GNH). Having studied economics and ultimately arriving at a state of disenchantment with the neoclassical mantra of "growth" and "maximizing utility", I've been curious for a number of years to see how GNH differs from traditional methods of measuring economic activity.

My wonderful hosts, brothers and business partners Lotay and Fin Rinchen, arranged a meeting with a senior researcher in the Department of GNH. We shared a fascinating time together in his office that included a long discussion of Mahayana Buddhism as well as conversation of different economic theories espoused by authors we were both familiar with. I very much enjoyed the banter, but came away with little additional understanding of the metrics of GNH.

From what I could gather from multiple sources during my stay, Bhutan is still very much in the process of defining, quantifying, and legitimizing GNH. However, they have held conferences in Canada, Thailand, and one other country I can't remember to gain input and insight from the international community. GNH seeks to go beyond traditional economic indicators to include other factors of wellbeing and progess, including: vitality of a sense of community and connectedness, preservation of traditional culture and folklore, conservation and responsible stewardship of natural resources, individual psychological health (happiness), etc. The term, "Gross National Happiness" was first used by the Fourth King of Bhutan in the 1970's, and it seems the government has been trying to qualify and quantify it's meaning ever since.

As you can imagine, many of these indicators are difficult to measure in a reliable and quantifiable fashion, which results in much of the criticism bestowed upon the approach of GNH. Regardless, I think it is a noble effort at pursuing an alternative path of economic, social, and environmental vitality in a country that has such unique cultural and natural capital.

-------Democracy--------

Up until a couple of decades ago, Bhutan was an isolated land of subsistent farmers who had little education, very limited access to health care, and virtually no contact with the outside world. While the life expectancy has gone from about 40 to 66 in the past thirty years and a good portion of the younger generation is now receiving a western education, much of Bhutan is still living in the past (70% of the villages in the country are still not accessible by road). To some extent, this is by choice. The leadership of Bhutan is currently walking the tricky line between integrating its citizens into the global marketplace and attempting to preserve the traditional culture and spiritual way of life. As I've witnessed the rest of the developing world diving head first into the ocean of consumerism, I expected to be refreshed by a country that seems to be charting a different course. In some ways, I appreciate the ways that the government of Bhutan is choosing to remain somewhat guarded from the way of the rest of the world, but I was also struck by the unintended consequences of withholding certain freedoms and choices from its people. Bhutan was the last country in the world to allow internet and television to its citizens in 1999. Certain channels and content are still prohibited or filtered. I began to realize the potential dangers of a government that decides it can make better decisions for it's citizens than they can make for themselves. This theme was also consistent with my inability to be an "independent" traveler in Bhutan, as only certain restaurants and hotels are sanctioned to cater to foreign visitors. This serves as a reminder that Bhutan is in its infancy of democracy, and I will watch with fascination in the next several decades at what happens to this small country with the expansion of freedoms and rights.

The brand new constitution includes unique provisions for our modern era, including one clause which effectively makes deforestation illegal by stating that at least 60% of all the land must remain under forest cover at all times. Judging by my flight into the country and the roads we traveled along, this clause is in no danger of being violated any time soon. That said, the founding fathers of the USA thought it would take 1,000 years for Americans to populate the entire country, and it took less than 100 years for every square inch of our vast land to be possessed by one owner or another. That is a fact that the government of Bhutan seems to be aware of, and is taking serious measures to try to avoid going down the same resource-destructive path as the rest of the world. In contrast to America, Bhutan is roughly half the size of North Carolina, with a total population not exceeding 700,000. Particularly considering it's precarious geographic juxtaposition between the two world giants of China and India, Bhutan is compelled to remain vigilant in protecting her sovereignty. Resulting from this unique blend of demographic and geographic factors, some level of protectionism and isolationism is justified, in my opinion.

What might be termed "protectionism" is, however, something I took issue with during several mealtime conversations with my well-informed host, Fin. I argued that it could provide a slippery slope toward the unfortunate direction of North Korea or Myanmar if the government of Bhutan leans too far in the direction of deciding it can make better decisions for its people than they are capable of making for themselves. To be fair, the democracy is only one year old, and I think they are off to a commendable start. That said, I'll be happy to return to my expanded rights and freedoms in the good old U.S. of A. Our democracy is about 233 years old, and we've still got some improvements to make as well.

-------Buddhism--------

I recommend pulling up a Google image of "Tiger's Nest" to get a feel for the unique monastic life of Bhutan. Some people say that Bhutan holds the purest form of Tibetan Buddhism today, and nearly 100% of Bhutanese people are Buddhist, and their spiritual tradition forms an integral part of the national identity. Mirroring my travels into Nepal and Ladakh, the landscape of Bhutan is spotted with prayer flags, mani walls, mountain top monasteries, prayer wheels, and white-washed chortens. I'll say that the monasteries of Bhutan seem to have a greater number of young monks than the other places I've visited, perhaps indicating a stronger monastic community here.

We visited quite a few monasteries during my stay, and the artwork is definitely among the best I've seen. I saw the oldest gompa in the country, which was established by the famous Guru Rinpoche in the 7th or 8th century. We also visited several dzongs, which have historically served the triple purposes of monastic housing, military fortresses, and government official administrative buildings.

------Other highlights---------

Coming soon in another blog entry...

written by  Katy and Mark Lewis on July 10, 2009 from Thimphu, Bhutan
from the travel blog: India and Nepal
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Soaring over India, you can scarcely spot any land that hasn't been developed. Passing from there into Nepal, there is noticably more forest cover. Continuing from Nepal into Bhutan, you can just about trace the international border by virtue of the almost complete lack of developed land in the remote "Land of the Thunder Dragon".

They say that Paro, Bhutan is home to the lonliest international airport in the world. Most days pass with only a single flight into and out of the country, but some days the air traffic controller works overtime with up to three flights taking off or landing. Fin told me that the official number he saw from the Tourism Authority was that a total of 55 foreign tourists were registered to travel into Bhutan in the month of July! I think there must be a few more than that, but they definitely keep the volume very limited with the exhorbitant expense of the visa to travel here.

Arriving into Paro, the air is rarefied and the scenery is bountiful and idyllic. There is an amazing diversity of flora here, much of it hanging from steep sloping mountainsides. Huge cumulous clouds hang precariously below the mountain tops, unlike any other place I've ever seen. There is a definite fairy tale feeling to Bhutan.

The first day we visited a World Wildlife Fund protected area that is home to the very rare and unusual Takin. Grab a Google image of this strange beast for a good laugh. Apparently the experts have had a difficult time placing this animal in in the same genus or family as any other species on earth. I guess its fitting that this most unique Takin is to be found only in this most unique Bhutan.

The built environment consists almost exclusively of rammed-earth craftsman sytle traditional structures with super intricate wood carving and colorful painting on the trim and window panes.

With their efforts to preserve a unique and traditional way of life comes a myriad of rules and regulations for the residents and visitors of Bhutan. There is a loosely enforced dress code when entering government buildings or spiritual places. Tobacco products are banned, but a black market has (inevitably) emerged. Travel above a certain altitude on certain mountain peaks is strictly prohibited. Etc, etc.

The first night over dinner, Fin gave me the full, long story of the controversy over Nepali immigrants that has somewhat tainted the Bhutanese reputation around the globe. Essentially, it is a very complicated and drawn out affair where the government has tried to verify the citizenship of large numbers of people in the southern part of the country, and several unfortunate mistakes have been made. Many of the people who have been forced out of the country had been living there for several generations, and some of them have actually been discovered to be Bhutanese citizens after living in refugee camps in Nepal and India for awhile. A significant factor in Bhutan's approach to the situation is their fear that Bhutan could easily be absorbed by one of its larger and more powerful neighbors, which happened with the nation of Sikkim in 1974 when it unwillingly became part of India. This is part of the reasoning behind Bhutan's strongly nationalist stance in its regional affairs. Additional factors include the fear that their small government would be unable to provide support services to a rising immigrant population, and the Bhutanese insistance upon preserving their traditional culture. I have found myself growing increasingly frustrated with the ideology of nationalism, as it seems to often times place artificial and harsh separation between man and his neighbor. Can't we all just get along? What ever happened to peace, love, and understanding?!

The second night of my stay, we traveled along a breathtaking road to the infrequently visited Haa valley. Our journey was to Fin's village to participate in the annual "puja" festival, which asks for blessings upon the household for the coming year. The entire village was assembled for the celebration, which included a lot of food, moonshine (rice whisky), dance, and laughter. The monks from the local monastery were there to perform several rituals, including lots of chanting and playing of some way cool musical instruments. Every home in Bhutan has a special shrine room, decorated with Buddhist statues and artwork, where the family meditates, makes offerings, and performs the annual "puja". It was really special to witness and participate in this intimate affair which most tourists remain oblivious to. It was also fascinating to draw certain comparisons with the hill tribe communities in Thailand, where I lived in 2005-2006. They are also of Tibetan/Mongolian descent, and there are definitely some cultural features in common.

The following day we did some hiking around the isolated and most pleasant Himalayan valley surrounding the small village. A dirt road stretching to the village was completed just last year. Fin said that his family has lived here for at least four generations, and beyond that is unknown as there is no written history. Up until the last decade or so, over 90% of all Bhutanese people were subsistent farmers in remote villages similar to this one. There has recently been a flight to urban areas among the younger generation in search of a better education and economic advancement. The government is trying to encourage people to stay in their villages by building more roads in the rural parts of the country to give better access to modern comforts. I suppose I shouldn't be surprised that globalization isn't out of bounds, even in this "last Shangri La".

A few words on the monarchy: There have been five kings of Bhutan. K4, as the fourth king is known, is the most colorful and fascinating. He was the first king to take multiple wives when he decided to marry four sisters. Because he's the king, nobody took issue with this break from tradition. He has several children with each, so the royal family has grown significantly in the last generation. The first-born son, K5, was given power by his father in 2007, when he was about my age. This abdication of power was unusual, as K4 was seemingly in his prime with several decades of rule ahead of him. He did so as a precursor to dissolving the absolute monarchy in favor of the constitutional monarchy that was established last year with the first parliamentary vote. K4 also insisted, above the objection of many government ministers, to include a provision in the constitution which easily allows the parliament to dissolve the monarchy if they see fit in the future. Knowing, first hand, the potential dangers of absolute authority, K4 demanded this provision in the case that any future king turns out to be a bad egg and abuses his position of power. So, he is quite the historical anomaly to have willingly given up his power in favor of democratic process. In fact, much of the country was very resistant to this idea, as they were quite happy with his benevolent rule. I can't think of another historical circumstance in which a democracy was created against the will of the people!

A couple of other places we visited were Dochula Pass, with it's 108 chortens, and Chimi Lhakhang (Temple of Fertility) established by the "Divine Madman", an eccentric monk in the 8th century. The alarmingly large and graphic penis images scattered around Bhutan are attributable to this guy. Another spectacular place that you might want to pull up a Google image of is the Punakha Dzong. It is huge and impressive and built right on the confluence of two mighty rivers.

One final tidbit: Bhutan is one of five countries in the world that does not have a U.S. embassy. I'm not sure what the other four are, but I'm guessing that these are not nations you would generally like to be listed with. Apparently, Sen. John McCain and three or four other Senators recently visited Bhutan to discuss the possibility of establishing closer relations. Bhutan is a fiercely prideful and autonomous place, and they don't want to risk being subject to any negative consequences of allying with the U.S. From what I could gather, they certainly don't intend to allow anyone else to tell them the best economic or political or social course into the future. In some ways, I found this attitude to be somewhat abrasive. On the other hand, I admire their determination to control their own destiny, and the staunch efforts to protect and preserve their cultural, spiritual, and natural resources. For many reasons, Bhutan is unlike any other country. It challenged and stimulated me. For those interested, I'd recommend traveling there, and would be very curious to hear of the conclusions you struggle to draw from this bizarre "Land of the Thunder Dragon".

written by  Katy and Mark Lewis on July 13, 2009 from Paro, Bhutan
from the travel blog: India and Nepal
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It has been brought to my attention by a couple of gentle souls that perhaps I've overstepped my bounds with the philosophical/spiritual content of this blog, which is supposed to be a travel journal. I accept this criticism, and apologize if I've offended or caused an annoyance to any of you. While this might not be the appropriate venue for sharing such personal thoughts and experiences, I get easily bored with simply recounting travel tales. The fact is, I set out on this journey to not only experience new cultures and lands, but also in search of greater wisdom and inner peace. I suppose I'm an aspiring philosopher of sorts, whether or not I belong in the company of metaphysicians and ontologists and meditation masters. I don't pretend to be any of these things, but I enjoy the pursuit of knowledge and truth.

Having spent a good portion of the past two months in solitude (since Katy departed), I wouldn't be at all surprised if my sense of social normalcy and acceptability has diminished somewhat. However, I'd never exchange that for the increased awareness of the reality of nature (or nature of reality or whatever you want to call It) that I've experienced during this alone time abroad. As it turns out, I'm kind of a mystical person. Given the right circumstances, I'm pretty sure we all are. It is my strongest conviction that the single most effective way to participate in the solutions to the challenges that face our world is to go inward, and seek out that unnamable force which transcends our personal and collective universe. If we look, with the eyes of a blameless child, we might catch glimpses of of the impermanent and interconnected nature of all things. Only then can the fullest love and compassion and wisdom become manifest in our lives and in our world. This is our greatest need. This is what we must demand of ourselves. This is the way out of our crises, of which climate change is a mere symptom. What is the disease, the root cause of suffering in the world? I'd argue that it is our greed, our selfish nature, our ignorance of what Paul Brunton calls the "Overself" and what Eastern masters term the "Buddha Nature". If we don't practice some form of spiritual or philosophical pursuit in an attempt to touch a higher reality, it is astonishing what we'll consume to fill the void that remains. A few humans have figured out this puzzle of life. I'll continue to work everyday to join their ranks. That is my career, my life's work. If I have any success, the only evidence will be love. Love is a renewable energy that can save the world. Every one of us is a potential producer. Who will create the Google, Wal Mart, Exxon Mobile, or Facebook of this most precious commodity? If not us, who? If not now, never.

Well, there I go again, forgetting this is supposed to be a travel blog! With that, I'll sign off. Be in touch.

Peace and Love!

written by  Katy and Mark Lewis on July 14, 2009 from Denver, United States
from the travel blog: India and Nepal
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