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so-journ

a travel blog by cjones


A year of exploration in the rural tropics, learning about places, people, the good and the bad, how I can help and what's next in this wild ride for me.


Teach us to number our days aright,
that we may gain a heart of wisdom.

May the favor of the Lord our God rest upon us;
establish the work of our hands for us — yes, establish the work of our hands.

Psalms 90:10 & 17
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Robbed!

Quito, Ecuador


The night before last, a place where I and many other interns and volunteers had stashed our belongings, was broken into, ransacked and robbed. I was away in the Búa community only one day when I heard the news, and returned yesterday to assess the damage. Lost my travel guitar, but other valuables were hidden well enough so I was more fortunate than some of the others. Suppose it's just a normal part of traveling in this part of the world, but it seems that every week I hear of another robbery of someone I know.

It's difficult being here and trying to help create a better life when so many don't seem to care about their society and environment, but only their own selfish interests. This seems especially true in the cities, but even in rural comunities I've visited it's a very small percentage of people - and mostly around my stage of life, rather than younger adults or elders - that are actively involved in trying to improve things. Most are just buying into the consumerism and indulgences being pushed on them from the cities. Guess this is not much different than in the US, but I see more crime here. Then again I'm traveling and living in different circles than in the US.

permalink written by  cjones on February 21, 2008 from Quito, Ecuador
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Tranquilo

Banos, Ecuador


Escaping the cold and the thieves in Quito to take a week of intensive Spanish classes here in Baños. Soaked in one of the thermal baths here this morning and hope the pleasant weather here will help me shake the cold or flu I've had now for over a week. Last night, I went in a chiva - a brightly colored open-air bus with seats on the roof - to try for a look at the fiery summit of the active volcano that towers above the town. However, it was impossible to see anything with all the mist so we were treated to an impressive fire juggling show instead.



permalink written by  cjones on March 1, 2008 from Banos, Ecuador
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The feel of the rock

Banos, Ecuador


Finally, after almost a year, got to do some climbing outside! Found a guide who's a good climber and has the equipment. It's also been mostly sunny here, which was a pleasant surprise since it's the rainy season and I'd heard that none of the climbing areas were dry.

Also working on the map for the Búa territory, which has become a political issue since in spite of our explanations to the contrary a group of local people have been spreading rumors that the purpose of this is to raise taxes. The map will integrate GPS coordinates of houses and parcels together with an aerial photo from the government's Instituto Geográfico Militar.



permalink written by  cjones on March 6, 2008 from Banos, Ecuador
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Welcome to the jungle

Tena, Ecuador


Stopped by the jungle on the way back to Quito from Baños. Tena is one of the largest towns in the Ecuadorian Amazon, but planning to go to a smaller town later today. Staying in a nice hotel in the trees overlooking a fast-moving river that is surprisingly clear and clean considering all the development around here. There's even wi-fi in the hotel, which I'm using to post this blog entry.

Thinking about the people I met in Baños and the current conditions in Ecuador I've been learning about from the news media and from talking with my Spanish teacher all week. The country is in the midst of a natural crisis with the severe rains that have destroyed many of the towns and crops in the lowlands, as well as a political crisis with the invasion a week ago by the Colombian army, who killed a group of guerrillas camped and sleeping in Ecuador near the border. Ecuador is neutral in regard to the Colombian civil war and of course this was a violation of national sovereignty. Colombia's position is that they were pursuing "terrorists" who were gathering their forces for a major attack, but this was apparently not true and there have been terrorists on both sides of the war.

Ecuador also formed a national assembly last year to rewrite the constitution so now many of the laws could change, hopefully for the better. I've read about a lot of resistance to the US military base on the coast in Manta, and a question about tariffs increasing on exports to the US due to the expiration of an Andean trade agreement linked to eradication of coca. The president has proposed protecting from oil exploration vast tracts of Amazonian forest as a carbon reservoir for the planet. However, the proposal would require partial compensation by the international community, which so far has not responded.

Also reflecting on the tenuousness of the lives of people living next to the volcano in Baños. About nine years ago when there was a time of very intense volcanic activity, my teacher Marco and his family had to leave their homes and livelihoods, and quickly evacuate to another city for a year. This was almost necessary again about a month ago. Marco is indigenous and also Christian. In Spanish he told some great stories about how he was brought to his faith and about miracles and fulfilled prophesies that he and his friends had witnessed. I also heard about 4-year-old kids being sold into slavery or working and living on the street.

permalink written by  cjones on March 8, 2008 from Tena, Ecuador
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Anticipation

Quito, Ecuador


Waiting with much excitement for Alyssa to arrive tonight and then to travel with her around the country next week. :)

Making good progress with the mapping of the Búa territory. Visited Búa again Tuesday and Wednesday to coordinate with Pascal, who's been living there, taking GPS measurements of parcels and collecting information from campesinos about crops, soil quality, etc. Walked briskly(!) with him and two of the community members around the parcels of one family for 4 or 5 hours on Wednesday through deep mud, thick brush and stream crossings. Still have blisters from the wet rubber boots rubbing against my bare feet.

Worked out a process for acquiring, organizing and transferring the GPS data and integrating this into a digital map with an aerial photo from the Ecuadorian military geographic institute. Through meetings with the local council and accompaniment by council members in the data collection, Yanapuma has eased suspicions about the purpose of the maps so that we now have the enthusiastic support of almost the entire Búa community. Pascal will also be teaching a few of the locals to use the technology so they can continue the data collection after he leaves in a couple of months.



permalink written by  cjones on March 15, 2008 from Quito, Ecuador
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Mi hija

Quito, Ecuador


Had a great time with Alyssa last week, traveling around the northern part of the country - the cloud forest around Mindo, the coast at Canoa, the traditional market at Otavalo in the _highlands_ and the historic center of Quito.




permalink written by  cjones on March 24, 2008 from Quito, Ecuador
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Finca Sarita

Calceta, Ecuador


Stayed for the past 2 days at Finca Sarita, a farm in the community of Sarampión, about 40 minutes by bus and by foot from Calceta. This is in the region of Ecuador that was inundated by the heavy rains recently. At one point, the rain and floods had deposited 2 or 3 feet of water under and around the family's home at the farm. The family's vegetable garden was completely destroyed, but farmhands were preparing the space for a new garden yesterday.

Discussed many things with Servio, whose family has lived on the same land for 150 years and has always practiced organic agriculture - using no synthetic chemicals and maintaining a wide diversity of fruit trees and other crops I'd never heard of before, such as the "air potato" which grows on a vine instead of underground. Learned about the successful organic cacao and reforestation projects in the community, and a community-managed enterprise to export palm leaves for floral arrangements, as well as difficulties in obtaining credit for other potential enterprises.

It seems that by supporting just individual entrepreneurs the current trend in microcredit could be creating disruptive competition and missing the point of what is best for the life of a community as a whole. Some projects, such as a chocolate factory or a community store that would sell locally processed foods (e.g. banana chips, other dried fruits, candies) instead of mass-produced junk snack foods from the multinational companies, require larger investments of capital than are available from microcredit programs.

The organic cacao project has been successful because of the investments of an Ecuadorian NGO that has assisted in obtaining organic certification and also buys the cacao at a fair price and sells to a chocolate producer in Germany.

Although there has been little mention of it in the press, which is controlled by business interests generally against Ecuador´s current president, a new program he has promoted called "5 plus 5 plus 5", for $5000 loans at 5% for 5 years, has the potential to be of great help to campesinos struggling to survive on their land. This is in stark contrast to lending practices of private banks in the past, which have charged up to 60% interest and required a document prepared by an attorney that could cost several hundred dollars.

Another problem I heard about with the banks occurred with "dollarization" in 2000 when depositors' accounts were frozen for 3 months, then the national currency (the sucre) was converted to dollars at the rate of around 25,000:1 although the international exchange rate was actually more like 8,000:1.



permalink written by  cjones on April 2, 2008 from Calceta, Ecuador
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Last trip to Búa

Quito, Ecuador


Returned from Búa yesterday afternoon. Worked with Pascal on the mapping project and discussed the continuation of the work after we both leave Ecuador this month (in my case at the end of next week). Also discussed my visit to Finca Sarita with Alfonso, a Tsa'chila collaborator with Yanapuma. Seems that the campesinos in Búa could learn much from the agricultural practices in Sarampión to better care for their community and their lands. Hopefully, they will have the opportunity to visit Servio's farm to see for themselves the diversity of crops grown within the forest, the self-sufficient and nutritious diet, and community associations there.


"This is what the LORD says:
'In the time of my favor I will answer you,
and in the day of salvation I will help you;
I will keep you and will make you
to be a covenant for the people,
to restore the land
and to reassign its desolate inheritances'"

Isaiah 49:8

permalink written by  cjones on April 5, 2008 from Quito, Ecuador
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New language frontier

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil


Left behind most of the warm clothes I bought in Quito, and arrived in Rio last night. Trying to adjust to the much higher cost of living and new language here. Feels like I've jumped in the deep end and now need to learn to swim. I'm buying a little time by staying at a hostel where some of the other guests speak English and some speak Spanish. There's a group here from the south who's filming a music video this week and others from all over the world and we're having fun trying to teach each other our languages.

This is the first time I've been around Portuguese and thought it would be easier to understand from the similar spelling of many words in Spanish, but the pronunciation is very different - r's pronounced like h, d's like j, t's like sh, g's like the French j, etc. Surprisingly for me, I've heard that in Rio there may be more people who speak some English than Spanish. Still not many speak either.

permalink written by  cjones on April 12, 2008 from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
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Break from the big city

Teresopolis, Brazil


Spent this past week taking Portuguese lessons and exploring around Rio, then arrived this afternoon in Teresópolis about an hour and a half bus ride to the north.

Rio is an interesting place and very scenic in parts but it still feels good to be out of the big city. It's a bit tense there with the crime, crowds and current dengue epidemic. Although I met some very nice Cariocas, it definitely feels more relaxed here and the people in general seem more happy and friendly.

Been thinking about how different it feels here in Brazil from the other Latin American countries I've visited. Part of it is the language, which to me seems more like Italian or French than like Spanish. Another part is the different mix of people - more European and African than mestizo and indigenous as in Ecuador. The music is different also - samba and bossa nova instead of salsa and bachata.

Because of the much higher cost of living, I had been buying groceries and eating in the hostel instead of eating out. So while I haven't tried much of the local food yet, what I have tried and seen on the menu is also different from Ecuador. No more platanos, more beans and fruit juices I haven't seen before. For lunch here in Teresópolis, I just had a pitcher of açai juice and a banana and cinnamon pizza!



permalink written by  cjones on April 19, 2008 from Teresopolis, Brazil
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